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rrnf.    C.    A.    Kofcid 


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Fort  Amsterdam  and  Village,  New  York,  p.  10. 


Dutch  Fort  and  English  Church,  Albany,  p.  14. 


ANNALS  AND  OCCURRENCES 

or 

NEW  YORK  CITY  AND  STATE, 

IN  THE  OLDEN  TIME; 

BEING    A    COLLECTIOI?    OF 

MEMOIRS,  ANECDOTES,  AND  INCIDENTS 

COI7CEB17IKG    THE 

CITY,  COUNTRY,  AND  INHABITANTS, 

FROSI 

THE  DAYS  OF  THE  FOUNDERS. 

IKTESDED    TO    PRESERVE    THE    RECOLLECTIONS    OF    OLDEN    TIME,    AND    TO    EXHIBIT 

SOCIETY    IN    ITS    CHANGES    OF    MANNERS    AND    CUSTOMS,    AND    THE 

CITY    AND    COUNTRY    IN    THEIR    LOCAL    CHANGES 

AND    IMPROVEMENTS. 

IN  TWO  BOOKS  — ONE  VOLUME  OCTAVO, 

EMBELLISHED    WITH    PICTORIAL    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


*«  Oh  !  dear  is  a  tale  of  the  olden  time  !"   >    t  t,  »  *  .     ■< 
Sequari  vestigia  rerum.  ',  ,*  I  *'?  J    »,* 


BY  JOHN  F.  WATSON, 
I' 

ACTHOB  OF  THE  ANNALS  OF  PHILADELPHIA,  AND  MEMBER  OF  THE   HISTORICAL  SOCIETIES 
OF  PENNSYLVANIA,  NEW  YORK,  AND  MASSACHUSETTS. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
HENRY  F.  ANNERS,  CHESNUT  STREET. 

1846. 


.3 


Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1846,  by 

J.    F.    WATSON, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Eastern  District 

of  Pennsylvania. 


:-MMtr  (^^  "■  ^  ' 


GEORGE    CHATILES,    STEREOTTPERj 
KINO    AXT)    KAIRD,    PRIXTERS, 


>  XO. 


GEORGE    ST.  PHILADELPHIA. 


PREFACE, 


It  is  impossible  to  contemplate  the  wonderful  progress 
o^  New  York  City  and  State,  in  its  actual  advance  to 
greatness,  without  feeling  our  hearts  stirred  with  deep 
emotion,  inciting  us  to  gratitude  and  praise.  *  *  *  * 
But  two  centuries  ago,  it  began  its  career  as  a  little  Dorp, 
or  village,  and  now  it  is  the  great  Commercial  Emporium 
of  the  Union ! 

It  should  be  the  just  pride  and  exultation  of  aw  Ameri- 
can to  belong  to  such  a  country ; — and  if  so,  what  should 
offer  him  more  interesting  and  edifying  reading  than  the 
history  of  the  infancy  and  progress  to  manhood,  of  such  a 
people  ?  Embued  with  such  thoughts,  we  have  supposed 
it  might  prove  profitable  to  awaken  in  the  breasts  of  the 
present  generation,  a  fond  regard  for  the  Annals  of  their 
Forefathers, — to  whose  enterprise,  skill  and  industry 
(under  God,)  they  owe  so  much  of  their  present  enjoy- 
ments and  distinction,  as  a  new  people. 

Man  has  by  nature  an  ardent  desire,  and  an  earnest 
curiosity,  to  learn  the  causes  of  things  around  him ; — and 
it  is  equally  the  dictate  of  Parental  indulgence,  and  of 
Bible  instruction,  that,  "when  your  children  shall  ask  you, 
wherefore  are  these  things  so,  then  shall  ye  answer  them." 
From  views  and  feelings  hke  these,  we  have  been  induced 
to  prepare  the  present  pages  illustrative  of  the  early  events 
of  the  City  and  Coun^ — of  their  inhabitants,  their  man- 
ners and  customs ; — such  as  things  were  in  the  days  of 
rusticity  and  simplicity,  when  so  wholly  unlike  the  present 
display  of  fashion,  pomp,  and  splendour.    We  aim,  there- 

(iii) 


IV  PREFACE. 

fore,  to  lay  before  our  readers  such  a  picture  of  the  past, 
as  may  present  to  their  contemplation  the  most  prominent 
and  striking  doings  and  things  of  the  Founders  and  Set- 
tlers of  the  City  and  State, — intending  herein,  to  restrict 
our  exhibition  to  those  incidents  which  could  most  sur- 
prise, amuse,  or  interest  their  mind, — while  at  the  same 
time,  it  may  increase  their  store  of  knowledge  concerning 
Country  and  Home, — by  dehneating  those  early  times,  and 
by-gone  days,  when  New  York  was  but  a  Provincial 
town,  and  the  Country  a  rirgged,  woody  region,  with 
only  here  and  there  an  humble  village — "  few  and  far  be- 
tween." 

It  is  by  multiplying  these  local  associations  of  idea, 
concerning  our  country,  that  we  can  hope  to  generate 
Patriotism,  binding  the  heart  by  forcible  ties  to  the 
parental  soil. 

"  Go  call  thy  sons,  instruct  them  what  a  debt 
They  owe  their  Ancestors,  and  make  them  vow 
To  pay  it, — by  transmitting  down  entire 
Those  sacred  rights  to  which  themselves  were  born." 

Philadelphia  County,  July,  1843. 


The  reader  is  advertised  that  all  references  in  these 
pages  to  occurrences  said  to  have  happened  some  30, 40, 
or  50  years  ago,  are  to  be  regarded  as  so  many  years 
preceding  the  year  1843,  that  being  the  time  of  finishing 
the  present  work. 


GENERAL    INDEX 


OF 


CHAPTERS    AND    SUBJECTS 


BOOK   FIRST. 

OF  NEW  YORK,  IN  GENERAL. 

Preface,  of  General  Facts,        -  -  -  -  -  -  ^ 

First  settlement  of  the  City  of  New  York,  and  its  Incidents, 

First  Settlement  of  Albany,  and  Notices  of  Dutch  Settlers, 

First  Settlement  of  Schenectady,     ------ 

Early  Settlement  of  Brooklyn  and  Long  Island,  -    ,      *  - 

Original  Exploration  of  the  Country,  how  conducted,  -  - 

The  First  Colonists,  Incidents  concerning  them, 
Early  Inland  Settlements ;  Their  Earliest  History  and  Origin,  including  Johns- 
town, Schoharie,  Canojoharie,  Cherry  "Valley,  German  Flats,  and  Fort  Schuy 
ler,  at  Rome,      -------- 

General  Views  of  New  York,  Inland,  beyond  Utica,     -  -  - 

Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers,  Notices  of  tliem,         -        i,    *  " 

The  Indians,  their  Residences  and  Wars,  -  -  -  - 

Steam  Boats,  Earliest  Incidents  of  them,     -  -  - 

Watering  Places,  their  Earliest  Resort  and  History,      -  - 

The  Erie  Canal,  and  Former  State  of  its  Route,  &c,  "      /      "       ,     " 


14 
26 
34 
37 
42 


45 
81 
95 
110 
129 
132 
136 


BOOK    SECOND. 

OF  NEW  YORK  CITY,  IN  PARTICULAR. 

New  York  Qity,  Particulars  of  its  Origin,        .  -  - 

Introductory  and  General  Views  of  the  City, 

Primitive  New  York,  showing  things  as  they  were, 

Memorials  of  the  Dutch  Dynasty,  -  -  - 

Ancient  Memorials,  Recording  Curious  Facts,  -  - 

Notices  of  Early  Dutch  Times,       -  -  -         ~   - 

Local  Changes  and  Local  Facts,  -  -  -  -    . 

Manners  and  Customs  in  the  Olden  Time, 

Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents,  -  -  _  - 

Gardens  and  Farms,  Earliest  Notices  of  them, 

Apparel,  and  Former  PecuUarities  of  Dress,      -  -  - 

Furniture  and  Equipage,    -  -  -  -  - 

Gazettes  of  the  Olden  Time,  and  their  Notices, 

Longevity,  -  -  -  -  -  ■         -- 

Changes  of  Prices  in  Diet,  &c.,  -  -  -       '      - 

Superstitions  and  Popular  Credulity,  -  - 

Miscellaneous  Facts,  of  Curious  Character,       -        ^    - 
Incidents  of  the  War  of  the  Revolution,      -  -  - 

Residence  of  British  Officers,  and  their  Incidents, 
Ancient  Edifices,  Remarkable  Characteristics, 
Reflections  and  Notices,  of  Things  Present  and  Past,    - 
Conclusion,  --..-. 

Appendix,       ....... 

Index,    ---.--- 


141 
143 
146 
149 
154 
164 
171 
204 
225 
245 
247 
258 
262 
289 
292 
293 
294 
324 
346 
350 
355 
366 
369 


:•  '4 


NEW  YORK,  IN  GENERAL. 


FIRST  SETTLEMENT  OF  THE  CITY  OF  NEW  YORK. 


«« The  city  rear'd  in  beauteous  pride — 
And  stretching  street  on  street, 
By  thousands  df ew  aspiring  sons." 

It  was  in  the  year  1609,  in  the  delightful  month  of  September, 
a  month  always  furnishing  pleasant  days  in  our  climate,  that  the 
celebrate^  Hudson,  the  discoverer,  first  furrowed  the  waters  of 
the  present  New  York  harbour  with  the  keel  of  his  adventurous 
yacht  the  Half  Moon.  Then  "  a  still  and  solemn  desert  hung 
round  his  lonely  bark !"  How  unlike  was  all  which  he  could 
then  see  or  contemplate,  to  what  we  now  behold !  How  little 
could  his  utmost  reach  of  forethought  realize  the  facts  of  present 
accomplishment — a  populous  and  wealthy  city ;  and  a  river  scene, 
crowded  with  numerous  vessels  freighted  with  foreign  and  do- 
mestic plenty !  Then  the  site  of  New  York  presented  only  a 
wild  and  rough  aspect :  covered  with  a  thick  forest,  its  beach 
broken  and  sandy,  or  rocky  and  full  of  inlets  forming  water 
marshes — the  natives,  there,  were  more  repulsive  than  their 
neighbours,  being  gruff  and  indisposed  to  trade.  We  proceed  to 
facts. 

Whether  Hudson  actually  landed  upon  New  York  Island  is  a 
little  dubious,  since  he  does  not  expressly  mention  it  in  his  jour- 
nal, but  speaks  of  the  reserve  and  gruffness  of  its  inhabitants ; 
and  contrasting  their  unfriendliness,  so  unlike  all  the  other  natives, 
who  were  every  where  warm-hearted  and  generous.  Of  the 
Wappingi,  the  people  on  the  western  shore  of  the  harbour,  he 
speaks  with  warm  regard ;  they  were  daily  visiters  and  dealers, 
bringing  with  them  for  trade  and  barter,  furs,  oysters,  corn,  beans, 
pumpkins,  squashes,  grapes,  and  some  apples.  Among  these 
Indians,  say  at  Commimipa  and  neighbourhood,  Hudson  landed. 

But  although  Hudson  has  not  himself  mentioned  any  thing 
special  of  his  landing  in  the  harbour  of  New  York,  we  possess  a 
very  striking  tradition  of  the  event,  as  told  by  the  Delawares, 
and  preserved  for  posterity  by  Heckewelder,  the  Indian  historian. 
They  described  themselves  as  greatly  perplexed  and  terrified 


10    •;  {  '•  Firat  $etthment  of  the  City  of  New  York. 

"W-^^n  l}ieyj^eh0id  the  approach  of  the  strange  object — the  ship 
in  the  offing.  They  deemed  it  a  visit  from  the  Manitto,  coming 
in  his  big  house  or  canoe,  and  began  to  prepare  an  entertainment 
for  his  reception.  By  and  by,  tlie  chief,  in  red  clothes  and  a 
glitter  of  metal,  with  others,  came  ashore  in  a  smaller  canoe ; 
mutual  salutations  and  signs  of  friendship  were  exchanged;  and 
after  a  while,  strong  drink  was  offered,  which  made  all  gay  and 
happy.  In  time,  as  their  mutual  acquaintance  progressed,  the 
white  skins  told  them  they  would  stay  with  them,  if  they  allowed 
them  as  much  land  for  cultivation  as  the  hide  of  a  bullock,  spread 
before  them,  could  cover  or  encompass.  The  request  was  granted ; 
and  the  pale  men  thereupon,  beginning  at  a  starting  point  on  the 
hide,  with  a  knife,  cut  it  up  into  one  long  extended  narrow  strip 
or  thong,  sufficient  to  encompass  a  large  place  !  Their  cunning 
equally  surprised  and  amused  the  confiding  and  simple  Indians, 
who  willingly  allowed  the  success  of  theiV  artifice,  and  backed 
it  with  a  cordial  welcome.  Such  was  the  origin  of  the  site  of 
New  York,  on  the  place  called  Manhattan,  (i.  e.  Manahachta- 
nienks,)  a  revelling  name,  importing  "  the  place  where  they  all 
got  drunk  !"  and  a  name  then  bestowed  by  the  Indians  as  com- 
memorative of  that  first  great  meeting.  The  natives  then  there, 
descendants  of  the  once  warlike  Minsi  tribe  of  the  Lenni  Lenape, 
were  the  same  class  of  people  called  by  Heckewelder  the  Dela- 
wares  or  Munseys.  The  Indians,  in  their  address  afterwards 
to  Gov.  Keift,  said,  "  When  you  first  arrived  on  our  shores  you 
were  sometimes  in  want  of  food.  Then  we  gave  you  our  beans 
and  corn,  and  let  you  eat  our  oysters  and  fish.  We  treated  you 
as  we  should  ourselves,  and  gave  you  our  daughters  as  wives." 

The  first  concern  of  the  discoverer  was  to  proceed  up  the 
"  Groot  Rivier," — the  great  North  River ;  the  facts  of  which 
will  be  told  in  another  chapter.  After  Hudson  had  occupied 
himself  in  exploring  and  returning,  twenty -two  days,  he  set  sail 
for  Europe  ;  and  his  favourable  reports  gave  rise  to  an  expedi- 
tion of  two  ships  in  1614,  under  Captains  Adrian  Blok  and 
Hendrick  Christiaanse.  'Twas  under  their  auspices  that  the 
first  actual  settlement  was  begun  upon  the  site  of  the  present 
New  York,  consisting  in  the  first  year  oi  four  houses,  and  in  the 
next  year  (1615),  of  a  redoubt  on  the  site  of  the  Macomb  houses, 
now  on  Broadway.  To  this  small  Doty  or  village,  they  gave 
the  stately  name  of  New  Amsterdam.  The  settlement  was  wholly 
of  a  commercial  and  military  character,  having  solely  for  its  object 
the  traffic  in  the  fur  trade.  At  the  same  time  another  similar 
settlement  was  formed  at  Albany.  Colonization  and  land  culture 
was  an  after-concern. 

At  the  time  Holland  projected  this  scheme  of  commercial  set- 
tlement, it  was  in  full  wealth  and  vigour,  building  annually  1000 
ships;  having  20,000  vessels,  and  100,000  mariners.  The  City 
of  Amsterdam  was  at  the  head  of  the  enterprise.     Its  merchants 


First  Settlement  of  the  City  of  New  York,  ll 

projected  the  scheme  of  sending  out  Capt.  Henry  Hudson  (an 
Englishman)  to  discover  a  northern  passage  to  the  East  Indies. 
In  this  attempt  he  of  course  failed ;  but  as  some  reparation  for 
the  consequent  disappointment  of  his  employers — ^'  the  Directors 
of  the  East  India  Company,"  he  fell  upon  the  expedient  of  sail- 
ing southward  to  Virginia,  to  make  something  there  by  traffic,  &c. 
In  so  doing  he  fell  upon  the  eventual  and  memorable  discovery  of 
the  Delaware  and  Hudson  rivers.     This  was  in  the  year  1609. 

In  March  1614,  the  States  General  gave  out  their  grant,  for 
the  purpose  of  the  fur  trade,  of  this  new  country  to  "the 
Amsterdam  licensed  trading  West  India  Company,"  intending 
New  York  as  a  part  of  their  fancied  West  Indies  !  Although 
the  Dutch  thought  little  or  nothing  of  colonization,  the  English 
then  in  Holland,  exiles  for  conscience  sake,  early  desired  to  form 
a  colony  at  New  York,  and  actually  embarked  for  that  purpose 
in  1620,  but  were  prevented  by  the  fraud  of  the  Dutch  captain, 
as  it  was  alleged,  and  were  actually  landed  at  Plymouth ;  forming 
there  the  memorable  "  Pilgrims  of  Plymouth  " — the  forefathers 
of  New  England. 

In  the  year  1623,  ."the  Privileged  West  India  Company," 
under  its  new  charter  of  1621,  began  its  operations  along  the 
Hudson,  for  the  first  time,  with  a  direct  view  of  colonization.  In 
1623,  colonists  and  supplies  were  sent  out  with  Capt.  Kornelis 
Jacobse  Mey,  and  were  most  heartily  welcomed  by  the  few 
previous  inhabitants.  Before  these  arrived,  they  had  been  two 
years  without  supplies  and  destitute ;  so  that  some  of  the  Staten 
Islanders  had  cut  up  the  sails  of  their  boats  for  necessary  clothing. 
In  compliment  to  Capt.  Mey,  and  in  memory  of  his  welcome 
arrival  in  the  bay  of  Manhattan,  they  named  the  bay  Port  May, 
At  this  time  they  commenced  their  Fort  Amsterdam,  on  the 
Battery  Point,  southward  of  their  former  redoubt ;  and  finished 
it,  under  Gov.  Wouter  Van  Twiller,  in  1635. 

It  might  serve  to  show  the  state  of  the  fur  trade  about  this 
time,  to  state,  that  in  the  first  year  of  Governor  Minuit's  admin- 
istration, they  collected  and  exported  4,700  beaver  and  otter 
skins,  valued  at  27,125  guilders,  or  11,300  dollars;  and  that  in 
ten  years  afterwards,  they  shipped  in  one  year  13,513  beavers 
and  1661  otters. 

The  settlement  and  fort  continued  to  bear  the  name  of  Nieuw 
Amsterdam,  by  the  Dutch,  down  to  the  time  of  the  surrender  by 
Governor  Stuyvesant  to  the  English,  in  1664.  Then  for  ten 
years  under  the  rule  of  Cols.  Nicolls  and  Lovelace,  acting  for 
the  Duke  of  York,  it  was  called  New  York  ;  but  in  August,  1673, 
a  Dutch  fleet,  in  time  of  war,  recaptured  it  from  the  British,  and 
while  exercising  their  rule  for  their  High  Mightinesses  of  Holland, 
to  the  time  of  the  peace  in  1674,  they  called  the  place  New 
Orange,  in  compliment  to  the  Prince  of  Orange,  and  the  fort  they 
called  Willem  Hendrick. 


12  First  Settlement  of  the  City  of  New  York. 

The  city  being  restored  to  the  British  by  the  treaty,  was  rede- 
Uvered  to  the  British  in  October,  1674.  The  fort  then  took  the 
name  of  Fort  James,  being  built  of  quadrangular  form,  having 
four  bastions,  two  gates,  and  42  cannon.  The  city  again  took 
the  name  of  New  York,  once  and  forever. 

The  city  was  laid  out  in  streets,  some  of  them  crooked  enough, 
in  1656.  It  then  contained  by  enumeration  "  120  houses,  with 
extensive  garden  lots,"  and  1000  inhabitants.  In  1677  another 
estimate  of  the  city  was  made,  and  ascertained  to  contain  36S 
houses.  In  the*  year  1674,  an  assessment  of  "  the  most  wealthy 
inhabitants"  having  been  made,  it  was  found  that  the  sum  total 
of  1 34  estates  amounted  to  95,000/.  / 

During  the  military  rule  Governor  Colve,  who  held  the  city  for 
one  year  under  the  above-mentioned  capture,  for  the  States  of 
Holland,  every  thing  partook  of  a  military  character,  and  the 
laws  still  in  preservation  at  Albany  show  the  energy  of  a  rigorous 
discipline.  Then  the  Dutch  mayor,  at  the  head  of  the  city  militia, 
held  his  daily  parades  before  the  City  Hall  (Stadt  Huys),  then  at 
Coenties  Slip ;  and  every  evening  at  sunset,  he  received  from 
the  principal  guard  of  the  fort  called  hoofd  tvagt,  the  keys  of  the 
city,  and  thereupon  proceeded  with  a  guard  of  six  to  lock  the  city 
gates  ;  then  to  place  a  Burger-wagt — a  citizen-guard,  as  night- 
watches  at  assigned  places.  The  same  mayors  also  went  the 
rounds  at  sunrise  to  open  the  gates,  and  to  restore  the  keys  to 
the  officer  of  the  fort.  All  this  was  surely  a  toilsome  service  for 
the  domestic  habits  of  the  peaceful  citizens  of  that  day,  and  must 
have  presented  an  irksome  honour  to  any  mayor  who  loved  his 
comfort  and  repose. 

This  sunrise  parade  of  the  mayor  and  his  suite,  elicited  the 
poetic  and  graphic  effusion  of  Mrs.  Sigourney,  and  which  as  a- 
tribute  to  the  author,  and  not  having  been  put  in  print,  is  now 
inserted  here. 

Lo  with  the  sun,  came  forth  a  goodly  train, 

The  portly  Mayor  with  his  full  guard  of  state : 
Hath  ought  of  evil  vex'd  their  fair  domain. 

That  thus  its  limits  they  perambulate. 
With  heavy,  measured  steps,  and  brows  of  care. 
Counting  its  scatter'd  roofs  with  fixed  portentous  stare  ? 

Behold  the  keys  with  solemn  pomp  restor'd 

To  one  in  warlike  costume  stoutly  brac'd. 
He,  of  yon  Fort,  the  undisputed  lord. 

Deep  lines  of  thought  are  on  his  forehead  trac'd. 
As  though  of  Babylon,  the  proud  command. 
Or  hundred-gated  Thebes  were  yielded  to  his  hand. 

See,  here  and  there,  the  buildings  cluster  round. 
All,  to  the  street,  their  cumbrous  gables  stretching. 

With  square-clipt  trees,  and  snug  enclosures  bound, 
(A  most  uncouth  material  for  sketching) — 


i 


First  Settlement  of  the  City  of  New  York.  13 

Each  with  its  stoop,  from  whose  sequester'd  shade, 

The  Dutchman's  evening  pipe,  in  cloudy  volumes  play'd. 

Oh,  had  these  ancient  dames  of  high  renown, — 

The  Knickerbockers  and  the  Rapaeljes, 
With  high-heel 'd  shoe,  and  ample  tenfold  gown. 

Green  worsted  hose,  with  clocks  of  crimson  rays, — 
Had  they  thro'  time's  dim  vista  stretch'd  their  gaze. 
Spying  their  daughters  fair  in  these  degenerate  days, 

With  muslin  robe,  and  satin  slipper  white. 

Thronging  to  routes,  with  Farenheit  at  zero, 
Their  sylphlike  form,  for  household  toils  too  slight. 

But  yet  to  winter's  piercing  blast,  a  hero. 
Here  had  they  marvell'd  at  such  wonderous  lot. 
And  scrubbing-brush  and  broom  for  one  short  space  forgot. 

Yet  deem  them  not  for  ridicule  a  theme. 

Those  worthy  burghers,  with  their  spouses  kind, 

Scorning  of  heartless  pomp,  the  gilded  dream, 
To  deeds  of  peaceful  industry  inclin'd. 

In  hospitality  sincere  and  grave. 

Inflexible  in  truths  in  simple  virtue  brave. 

Hail  mighty  City, — ^high  must  be  his  fame 
Who  round  thy  bounds,  at  sunrise  now  should  walk ; 

Still  wert  thou  lovely, — whatsoe'er  thy  name. 
New  Amsterdam, — New  Orange,  or  New  York, 

Whether  in  cradle  sleep  on  sea-weed  laid. 

Or  on  thine  island  throne,  in  queenly  power  array'd. 

It  may  amuse  some  of  the  present  generation  so  little  used  to 
Dutch  names,  to  learn  some  of  the  titles,  once  so  familiar  in  New 
York,  and  now  so  little  understood.     Such  as, — 

De  Heer  officier  or  Hoofd-Schout — High  Sheriff. 
De  Fiscael,  or  Procureur  Gen. — Attorney  Gen. 
Wees-Meesters — Guardians  of  orphans. 
Roy-Meesters — Regulator  of  fences. 
Groot-Burgerrecht  and  Klein-Burgerrecht — The  great  and  small 

citizenship,  which  then  marked  the  two  orders  of  society. 
Eyck-Meester — The  Weigh-Master. 
The  Schout,   (the   Sheriff,)   Burgomasters  and  Schepens — then 

ruled  the  city,  "  as  in  all  cities  of  the  Father  land." 
Geheim  Schryver — Recorder  of  secrets. 

B 


14 


FIRST  SETTLEMENT  OF  ALBANY. 


"  But  times  are  alter'd — trade  has  changed  the  scene, 
A  city  rears  its  form  where  only  huts  were  seen." 

This  city  began  its  career  cotemporary  with  New  York,  having 
been  visited  and  explored,  as  the  head  of  navigation,  by  the  dis- 
coverer, Capt.  Hudson,  on  the  19 th  September,  1609;  a  day 
long  to  be  remembered  and  respected  as  their  natal  day,  as  a 
people,  by  the  present  Albanians.  In  this  vicinity  he  remained 
with  his  little  ship  the  Half  Moon  four  days,  cultivating  friend- 
ship and  trade  with  the  natives,  by  whom  his  ship  and  people 
were  much  visited.  The  Mohawks — Maquas,  were  dwelling 
on  the  western  side  of  the  river,  and  the  Mohiccans  on  the  eastern 
side.  The  frank  and  generous  natives  made  them  every  where 
welcome,  and  they  in  turn  offered  to  make  their  hearts  gay  "  with 
wine  and  aqua  vitae ;"  so  much  so,  that  one  of  them  became 
much  intoxicated,  and  so  astonished  the  others,  "  that  they  knew 
not  how  to  take  it,  and  made  ashore  quickly  in  their  canoes." 
The  story  of  this  drunken  revel  became  a  memorable  tradition, 
long  retained  among  all  the  Indian  tribes ;  and  this  incident,  con- 
nected with  a  similar  one  remembered  at  New  York  island,  gave 
rise  to  the  name  of  Manhattan;  i.  e.  "the  place  where  they  all^ 
got  drunk."  The  descendants  of  the  Delawares  often  spoke  to 
Hecke  welder  of  the  manner  in  which  the  white  skins  first  dealt 
out  strong  drink  from  a  large  hock-hack,  (a  gourd  or  bottle,) 
which  produced  staggering  and  happy  feelings. 

It  was  under  the  visit  of  Schippers  (captains)  Blok  and  Chris- 
tiaanse  in  1614,  that  it  got  its  first  redoubt  and  first  settlement 
on  the  island  below  Albany  ferry.  To  this  they  gave  the  name 
of  Casteel  Eylandt,  (Castle  Island,)  in  allusion  to  its  defence ; 
having  mounted  there  two  brass  and  eleven  stone  guns,  (these, 
"stien  gustuckers"  pieces  of  arms,  meant  iron  guns,  which  were 
to  discharge  stone  shot :)  with  a  little  garrison  of  a  dozen  soldiers, 
commanded  by  an  opper-hoofdt  or  chief:  the  whole  making  just 
as  many  men  as  big  guns  !  This  little  castle  fort  was  abandoned 
in  1617,  having  encountered  there  an  unexpected  enemy  in  the 
annual  flood.  They  went  thence  four  miles  southward,  to  the 
shore  of  a  creek  called  Nordtman's  Kill,  where  they  erected  ano- 
ther defence,  and  there  held  a  memorable  treaty  with  the  Indians, 
which  they  long  remembered  and  often  referred  to. 

In  1623  they  laid  the  proper  commencement  of  the  present 
Albany,  in  the  construction  there  of  Fort  Orange,  and  giving  to 
the  little  village  the  name  of  Jiurania — names  in  compliment 


First  Settlement  of  Albany.  15 

and  respect  to  their  Prince  of  Orange.  This  first  fort  in  Albany 
was  on  the  river  side  near  to  the  present  Fort  Orange  Hotel  in 
South  Market  street. — It  seems  to  have  been  slightly  constructed, 
for  in  1639  it  is  complained  of  as  in  decay ;  and  as  being  injured 
by  the  action  of  the  hogs. 

Albany  was  always  fruitful  in  names,  sometimes  bearing  sev- 
eral at  the  same  time.  They  might  be  noticed  generally  thus,  to 
wit:  It  was  called  Beverwyck  until  1623;  then  Fort  Orange 
until  1647;  then  Williamstadt  until  1664;  when  it  first  received, 
by  reason  of  the  British  conquest,  the  name  of  Albany  or  Alba- 
nia after  the  duke.  During  all  the  preceding  period  it  bore  also 
the  popular  nickname  of  Fuyck,  which  means  hoop-net,  in  refer- 
ence to  their  use  of  it  in  fishing.  The  Indians  of  the  Munsey  tribe 
had  given  it  another  name,  calling  it  Laaphawachking,  which 
meant  the  place  of  stringing  wampum  beads,  for  which  the 
Dutch  of  Albany  were  prized.  It  had  also  other  names  among 
other  tribes;  thus  it  was  called  Skaghneghtady,  or  Schenectadea, 
a  term  signifying  "  the  other  side  of  the  river.''  The  Mohiccans 
called  it  Gaschtenick ;  the  Dela wares  called  it  Mahicawaittuck ; 
and  the  Iroquois,  Chohotatia. 

It  having  been  the  advanced  post  for  the  fur  trade,  it  was  of 
course,  for  numerous  years,  the  proper  Bever  wyck  for  the  beaver 
and  otter  sales  of  the  Indians.  It  was  the  proper  market  for  all 
which  *'  the  great  five  nations"  could  gather  from  their  proper 
hunting  grounds — their  Couxsachraga — importing  the  dismal 
wilderness.  From  this  cause  Albany  was,  more  than  a  century, 
a  place  almost  as  common  to  Indian  visiters  as  to  whites. 

The  second  fort,  a  great  building  of  stone,  was  constructed  on 
a  high  steep  hill  at  the  west  end  of  State  street,  having  around  it 
a  high  and  thick  wall,  where  they  now  have  a  state-house  and 
a  fine  commanding  view  over  the  town  below.  The  English 
church  was  just  below  it,  at  the  west  end  of  a  market :  and  the 
original  old  Dutch  church,  now  down,  of  Gothic  appearance, 
stood  in  the  middle  of  State  street  at  the  eastern  end — of  which 
see  a  picture. 

The  original  Dutch  church,  founded  in  1 Q5Q,  was  supplied  in 
1657  by  the  Rev.  Gideon  Schoats  from  Amsterdam,  to  whom 
there  was  soon  after  sent  out  a  bell  and  pulpit,  for  what  they 
then  called  the  little  church.  When  they  enlarged  this  church  in 
1715,  they  did  it  (as  has  been  said  to  have  been  done  with  the  first 
Christ  Church  in  Phladelphia,)  by  building  outside  of  it  a  new 
wall — enclosing  the  whole,  and  roofing  it  in  before  taking  down 
the  inner  church,  so  as  to  lose  only  three  sabbaths  of  worship  in 
effecting  the  change.  The  windows  of  this  new  church  were 
richly  ornamented  with  coats  of  arms.  This  church,  after  standing 
upwards  of  90  years  at  the  intersecting  angle  of  State,  Market 
and  Court  streets,  was  taken  down  in  1806,  and  the  stone  of  it, — ■ 


16  "  First  Settlement  of  Albany. 

to  preserve  its  remains,  was  used  in  the  construction  of  the  South 
Dutch  Church,  between  Hudson  and  Beaver  streets. 

It  does  not  appear  that  any  stone  or  brick  buildings  were 
erected,  for  many  of  the  earUest  years  of  the  settlement — say  till 
1647,  when  the  first  stone  house  was  built,  near  to  the  Fori,  and 
upon  this  occasion  we  are  informed  that  they  celebrated  the 
occurrence  with  an  extreme  regale  of  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
eight  gallons  of  liquor  !     Log  houses  were  those  in  common  use. 

Albany  was  originally  surrounded  by  palisades,  as  a  means  6f 
defence — some  of  their  remains  have  been  occasionally  found,  in 
digging  in  places,  within  the  last  forty  or  fifty  years. 

The  town  being  under  the  military  government  of  three  com- 
missaries appointed  by  the  governors  from  year  to  year,  made  it 
in  some  cases  too  rigorous  for  some  of  the  Indian  traders,  and 
they,  to  get  from  such  surveillance,  went  on  to  Schenectady  JFlats, 
where  they  succeeded  to  intercept  considerable  of  the  fur  trade 
intended  for  Albany.  This  became  a  vexatious  annoyance  to 
the  Albanians,  and  produced  much  of  ill-will  and  bickerings 
between  the  two  settlements.  It  was  a  part  of  the  ordinances 
of  the  commissaries,  that  no  one  could  build  houses,  buy  or  sell, 
or  keep  stores  or  taverns,  without  their  grant  and  permission. — 
This  may  have  seemed  a  restraint  of  undue  severity ; — but  it 
was  doubtless  founded  upon  the  necessary  precaution  of  ex- 
cluding unsuitable  settlers. 

Albany  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1686,  under  the  adminis- 
tration of  Governor  Dongan. 

In  1842,  in  making  some  excavations  in  the  street  near  Fort 
Orange,  they  dug  out  a  dozen  cannon  balls,  some  of  them  weigh- 
ing from  twelve  to  fourteen  pounds.  They  had  of  course  many 
years  of  peaceful  and  harmless  slumber,  and  have  now  none  to 
tell  their  tale  of  former  doings. 

Professor  Kalm,  who  visited  Albany  in  1749,  has  left  us- some 
facts.  All  the  people  then  understood  Dutch.  All  th^  houses 
stood  gable-end  to  the  street ;  the  ends  were  of  brick  and  the  side 
walls  of  planks  or  logs;  the  gutters  on  the  roofs  went  out  almost 
to  the  middle  of  the  street,  greatly  annoying  travellers  in  their 
discharge.  At  the  stoopes  (porches)  the  people  spent  much  of 
their  time,  especially  on  the  shady  side ;  and  in  the  evenings 
they  were  filled  with  people  of  both  sexes.  The  streets  were 
dirty,  by  reason  of  the  cattle  possessing  their  free  use  during  the 
summer  nights.  They  had  no  knowledge  of  stoves,  and  their 
chiimieys  were  so  wide  that  one  could  drive  through  them  with 
a  cart  and  horses.  Many  people  still  made  wampum  to  sell*  to 
the  Indians  and  traders.  Dutch  manners  every  where  prevailed ; 
but  their  dress  in  general  was  after  the  English  form.  They  were 
regarded  as  close .  in  traffic ;  were  very  frugal  in  their  house 
economy  and  diet.     Their  women  were  over-nice  in  cleanliness, 


First  Settlement  of  Albany,  17 

scouring  floors  and  kitchen  utensils  several  times  a  week ;  rising 
very  early  and  going  to  sleep  very  late.  Their  servants  were 
chiefly  negroes.  Their  breakfast  was  tea  without  milk,  using 
sugar  by  putting  a  small  bit  into  the  mouth.  Their  dinner  was 
buttennilk  and  bread ;  and  if  to  that  they  added  sugar,  it  was 
deemed  delicious.  Sometimes  they  had  bread  and  milk,  and 
sometimes  roasted  or  boiled  meats.  The  New  Englanders 
thought  the  Albanians  much  too  close,  and  there  was  no  good 
will  to  them  in  turn. 

State  of  society,  manners,  customs,  fyc,  as  they  existed  at  and 
about  Jilbany  before  the  Revolution,  as  told  by  Mrs.  Grant 
in  her  Memoirs  of  Mrs.  Schuyler. 

Herein  we  aim  to  bring  up  "  the  very  age  and  picture  of  the 
past."    To  wit  :* 

The  Van  Rensselaer  family  held  a  manor  beginning  at  the 
Church  and  extending  twelve  miles  in  every  direction.  He  was 
called  the  Patroon  of  Albany. 

On  the  Mohawk  river,  forty  miles  from  Albany,  was  the  confed- 
eracy of  the  Five  Nations,  who  cultivated  rich  fields,  built  castles, 
and  planted  maize  and  beans,  &c.  They  were  possessed  of  elo- 
quence, and  generous  and  elevated  sentiments,  heroic  fortitude, 
and  unstained  probity. 

At  Albany,  was  a  palisadoed  fort,  occupied  by  one  company, 
who  were  however  scattered  through  the  towri,  working  at  vari- 
ous trades,  for  their  own  profit. 

The  Flats,  (the  Watervliet,)  upon  which  the  first  Col.  Philip 
Schuyler  lived,  fourteen  miles  north  of  Albany,  was  a  frontier 
position,  and  would  have  been  considered  dangerous  but  for  his 
high  character  and  just  interests  with'  the  Indians.  In  the  time 
of  Queen  Anne,  he  took  with  him  four  of  the  sachems  to  visit 
England,  about  the  year  1709.  They  were  gone  a  year,  and 
were  much  pleased  with  all  they  saw  and  considered. 

Education  then  was  difiicult  to  attain,  especially  for  girls.  They 
were  taught  to  read  Dutch  in  their  Bible ;  very  few  could  read 
English,  all  however  could  talk  it  imperfectly. 

Fashion  had  no  influence  there.  All  was  simple  and  unpre- 
tending, hospitable  and  kind.  They  had  a  universal  respect  for 
Religion  and  morals. 

The  women  were  great  gardeners.  You  could  see  them  going 
out  to  their  garden  labours  with  a  great  calash,  a  little  basket  of 
seedg,  and  the  rake  on  the  shoulder.  Women  in  very  easy  circum- 
stances, would  so  work  incessantly ;  they  were  also  great  florists. 
I 

•Mrs.  Grant,  once  Miss  Anne  Mac  Vicar,  was  born  in  1754— became  acquaint-' 
ed  with  Mrs.  Schuyler  in  1762,  (at  eight  years  of  age,)  and  died  in  Scotland 
in  1838.    She  was  the  danghter  of  an  officer  in  the  55th  Regiment,  on  the  Indian 
frontier,  and  married  in  Scotland  to  Mr.  Grant,  a  Clergyman. 
3  b2 


18  First  Settlement  of  Albany, 

The  city  was  a  kind  of  semi-rural  establishment.  Every  house 
had  its  garden,  well,  and  green  plot  behind.  Before  every  door 
a  tree  was  planted,  many  of  them  of  prodigious  size  and  beauty. 
At  every  house  was  an  open  portico,  surrounded  by  seats,  and 
ascended  by  a  few  steps. 

Every  family  had  a  cow,  fed  in  a  common  pasture  at  the  end 
of  the  town.  In  the  evening  they  returned  all  together  of  their 
own  accord,  with  their  tinkling  bells,  hung  at  their  necks,  along 
the  wide  and  grassy  street,  to  their  wonted  sheltering  trees,  to  be 
milked  at  their  masters'  doors. 

Nothing  could  be  more  pleasant  to  a  simple  and  benevolent 
mind,  than  to  see  thus  at  one  view,  all  the  inhabitants  of  a  town 
which  contained  not  one  very  rich  or  very  poor,  very  knowing 
or  very  ignorant,  very  rude  or  very  polished  individual  ; — to  see 
all  these  children  of  nature,  enjoying  in  easy  indolence,  a  social 
intercourse,  clothed  in  the  plainest  habits,  and  with  minds  as  un- 
disguised and  artless. 

These  primitive  beings  were  dispersed  in  porches,  grouped 
according  to  similarity  of  years  and  incHnations.  At  one  door 
matrons ;  at  another  the  elders  of  the  people ;  at  a  third  the 
youths  and  maidens,  gaily  chatting  or  singing  together  ;  while 
the  still  younger, — the  children,  played  round  the  trees,  or  waited 
by  the  cows,  for  their  share  of  milk,  which  they  generally  took 
sitting  upon  the  steps  ;  making  their  supper  of  bread  and  milk, 
before  going  to  bed.  The  cows  in  the  meantime  were  treated 
with  a  few  vegetables,  and  a  little  salt.  They  patiently  waited 
the  night  to  be  milked  again  in  the  morning,  and  then  they  went 
off  slowly  in  regular  procession  to  their  pasture. 

At  the  other  end  of  the  town  was  a  fertile  plain  along  the  river 
of  three  miles  in  length,  and  near  a  mile  broad,  in  which  every 
inhabitant  had  his  lot,  wherein  they  raised  sufficient  of  Indian 
corn  for  the  food  of  two  or  three  slaves,  (the  number  usually 
owned  by  families  severally,)  and  also  for  the  use  of  the  horses, 
pigs  and  poultry.  Their  flour  and  other  grain  they  purchased 
from  country  farmers. 

Then  slavery  was  of  the  mildest  form — their  slaves  were  really 
happy.  They  seemed  like  Abraham's  servants,  who  were  all 
born  in  the  house.  Nothing  pained  them  so  much  as  the  fear  of 
being  sent  away,  or  to  be  sold  for  bad  conduct,  to  the  West  In- 
dies. All  children  so  born  in  the  house,  were  solemnly  presented 
when  three  years  old  to  a  son  or  daughter  of  the  same  sex  and 
family;  and  from  that  day  the  strongest  attachment  subsisted 
between  the  black  and  the  destined  owner.  They  were,  in  fact 
brought  up  together.  The  blacks  were  indulged  in  great  freedom 
.of  speech,  in  giving  their  opinion  and  advice,  &c.  It  was  indeed 
wonderful  to  see  so  little  of  servility  and  fear  on  the  one  side, 
and  so  little  harshness  or  authority,  on  the  other.  They  were  the 
most  devoted  and  afiectionate  and  honest  servants  imaginable. 


First  Settlement  of  Albany.  19 

The  owners  had  no  idea,  then,  that  slavery  was  wrong,  and  still 
less  did  the  servants  themselves  think  of  it.  All  thought  that 
they  saw  slavery  in  their  Bibles,  and  thought  that  all  that  could 
be  required  of  Christians,  was  to  lighten  and  soften  the  chains  of 
servitude.  Free  and  civil  as  was  the  intercourse  between  black 
and  white,  no  case  had  ever  occurred  of  "  amalgamation ;"  and 
no  instance  of  mixed  colour  had  been  seen  until  produced  by 
some  in  the  British  army,  coming  among  them.  The  first  in- 
stance of  the  kind  produced  emotions  of  surprise  and  dislike. 

They  had  a  custom  after  the  manner  of  Geneva,  of  dividing 
the  children  of  the  town  into  companies :  beginning  at  about  five 
to  six  years  of  age,  and  continuing  till  they  were  marriageable. 
Every  company  contained  as  many  boys  as  girls.  They  kept 
annual  festivals,  and  every  child  was  permitted  to  entertain  his 
whole  company  on  his  birth-day,  at  which  time  the  parents  were 
to  leave  home,  and  let  them  have  full  range  of  the  house  and  their 
plays. 

The  girls  showed  early  industry ;  being  fully  employed  in 
knitting  stockings,  or  making  clothes  for  the  family  and  slaves  ; 
they  even  made  all  the  boys^  clothes.  Their  dress  was  slight  and 
cheap  in  summer,  and  warm  in  winter.  Their  dress  of  ceremony, 
was  only  used,  when  company  was  assembled. 

The  wild  pigeons  in  April  used  to  be  very  numerous.  They 
begin  to  fly  in  the  dawn,  and  are  never  seen  after  9  or  10  o'clock 
in  the  morning.  They  go  to  the  banks  of  the  lakes,  where  they 
eat  the  seed  all  summer  of  a  plant  like  the  wild  carrot.  They 
are  then  breeding  and  rearing  their  young.  While  they  were 
passing  over  Albany,  every  body  kept  holiday,  to  shoot  them 
down  in  vast  numbers.  After  them  came  the  feasting  upon  the 
emigrating  wild  geese  and  ducks,  all  coming  with  the  pigeons 
from  the  South. 

Contracts  for  marriage  were  early  and  easily  formed.  Youths 
married  by  nineteen  years  of  age.  A  new  married  man  soon  set 
out  upon  a  trading  adventure  with  the  Indians,  going  up  the  Mo- 
hawk with  his  black  assistant  in  their  canoes,  enduring  much 
hardship  cheerfully,  and  making  money  readily  by  it.  In  travel- 
ling inland,  they  were  obliged  to  depend  much  upon  their  skill 
in  hunting  and  fishing  for  their  supply  of  provisions.  At  night 
they  had  to  go  ashore  and  light  their  fires,  to  drive  off  musquitoes, 
and  to  scare  the  wolves  and  bears  away,  of  which  there  was  no 
Jack,  "  rendering  night  hideous"  by  their  dismal  howls. 

The  Albanians  were  exceedingly  social,  and  visited  each  other 
very  frequently,  besides  the  regular  assembling  together  in  their 
porches.  Dinner,  which  was  very  early,  was  always  without 
ceremony,  and  in  a  family  way.  They  loved  each  other ;  but 
of  strangers  they  were  shy,  but  came  to  be  kind  and  civil  if  you 
did  not  act  intrusively  or  insolently.  Their  tea  was  a  perfect  re- 
gale, having  many  sorts  of  cakes,  sweetmeats,  confectionary  and 


20  First  Settlement  of  Albany. 

pastry.  They  received  many  sweetmeats  from  the  West  Indies 
in  return  for  their  shipments  of  lumber. 

They  were  extremely  fond  of  sleighing  in  Winter.  The  young 
people  went  out  in  parties,  stopping  at  any  or  every  house  along 
the  road,  whether  by  night  or  day.  They  were  always  well  re- 
ceived though  not  personally  acquainted.  They  shared  their  ban- 
quet wherever  they  stopped. 

In  town,  the  hoys  were  all  extravagantly  fond  of  sledding 
down  hill  on  the  snow ;  descending  from  the  Fort  hill  in  State 
street,  afforded  them  a  long  run  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  All  the 
youth  from  eight  to  eighteen,  had  each  a  sled.  Down  such  a  hill 
one  hundred  could  be  seen  at  once  descending  rapidly.  The 
exercise  brought  out  all  the  young  people  to  their  porticos  to 
see  the  sport,  where  they  would  continue  to  sit,  wrapt  in  furs, 
till  ten  or  eleven  at  night. 

They  had  a  practice  among  the  young  men  to  steal  a  turkey, 
or  a  pig,  and  to  have  a  supper  therefrom  at  some  inn.  It  was 
necessary  to  be  done  with  Spartan  dexterity,  so  as  not  to  be  dis- 
covered, and  not  to  commit  any  other  injury.  Cases  have  oc- 
curred where  they  have  been  caught,  and  they  then  have  made 
interest  with  the  owner,  to  join  their  party,  and  perhaps  to  go  and 
prey  upon  some  other.  But  all  this  had  to  be  abandoned,  when 
they  arrived  at  matrimony. 

When  houses  were  located  in  the  country,  great  care  was  taken 
to  preserve  one  stately  tree  in  the  back  yard,  on  purpose  to  make 
shelter  for  the  birds.  There  the  limbs  were  pollarded  (cut),  in 
midsummer,  so  as  when  they  decayed  to  leave  a  little  hole  for 
nests.  Such  a  tree  was  at  Col.  Schuyler's.  They  also  saved  all 
the  horse  and  ox  heads,  so  as  to  place  them  on  the  tops  of  the 
posts  of  the  fences  near  the  house  to  afford  nesting  places  for  the 
birds.  Thus  hundreds  of  birds  were  domesticated  near  the  houses, 
to  kill  off  the  flies,  musquitoes,  crickets,  &c.  Old  hats  too,  were 
nailed  about  the  negro  houses,  for  nests. 

The  barn  was  an  immense  building  at  the  Flats.  All  were 
built  upon  the  plan  of  four  sides,  and  the  roof  highest  at  the  cen- 
tre.    The  roofs  above  were  filled  with  swallows. 

About  the  year  1750,  there  came  to  Albany  a  regiment  of 
British  soldiery,  having  many  gay  and  licentious  young  officers. 
They  excited  much  fear  and  distrust  among  the  graver  people. 
Even  the  mass  of  the  young  did  not  like  their  free  and  confident 
deportment.  The  Dutch  minister,  Domine  Freylinghausen,  was 
much  concerned  for  his  moral  and  quiet  people.  He  preached 
and  spoke  against  innovations,  vain-glory,  and  pride.  Some  of 
the  officers  however  managed  to  get  billeted  in  sundry  families  of 
the  lighter  and  more  frivolous  sort.  In  time  they  succeeded  to 
get  up  plays  and  dances  in  a  barn.  With  this  came  in  an  anglo- 
mania,  forming  a  sect  among  the  young  people,  who  affected 
a  lighter  style  of  dress  and  manners.     From  all  this  however, 


First  Settlement  of  Albany.  21 

Madame  and  the  Colonel  kept  wholly  aloof,  nor  would  they  wel- 
come any  of  the  free  officers  to  their  mansion.  In  time,  the  young 
colonel  of  the  regiment  got  into  a  dilemma  with  the  young  lady 
of  the  house  where  he  resided,  which  produced  great  scandal 
and  much  affliction  to  her  distressed  and  unsuspecting  parents. 
It  was  a  new  thing — an  unheard  of  deception.  Before  this  time, 
there  was  not  a  single  family  that  even  knew  what  was  meant 
by  a  play. 

I  here  give  some  incidents  in  the  life  of  Madame  Catalina 
Schuyler,  much  of  which  is  much  like  facts  and  traits  in  the 
life  of  the  distinguished  Mrs.  Deborah  Logan,  of  Germantown, 
here  preserved  as  some  of  the  characteristics  of  society,  in  the 
olden  time.     To  wit : — 

Catalina  Schuyler,  born  in  1702,  at  Albany,  was  the  niece  of 
the  first  Col.  Philip  Schuyler,  and  was  married  in  1719  to  her 
cousin  Col.  Phihp  Schuyler,  son  of  the  former.  He  died  in  1757, 
and  she  in  1778-9.  The  first  of  the  family  known  to  us,  was 
Col.  Peter  Schuyler,  who  in  1690,  was  mayor  of  Albany,  and 
commander  of  the  northern  militia. 

She  was  early  distinguished  for  a  great  desire  of  knowledge, 
and  an  even  and  pleasing  temper.  At  that  time  it  was  very  dif- 
ficult to  procure  education ;  few  girls,  then  read  English  ;  and  if 
they  did,  it  was  thought  an  accomplishment.  They  however 
generally  spoke  it ;  but  in  an  imperfect  manner.  Miss  Schuyler 
had  an  early  taste  for  reading :  but  her  books,  though  choice,  were 
but  few.  In  early  life,  she  was  majestic  and  graceful,  and  her 
countenance  extremely  fine.  In  later  years,  she  became  heavy 
and  corpulent ;  but  always  dignified  and  benignant.  She  had  a 
high  regard  for  the  Indians,  and  spoke  their  language,  many  of 
whom  often  came  and  set  down  in  her  neighbourhood  in  "  the 
Indian  field,"  left  open  for  their  encampment  and  use. 

The  house  was  a  large  brick  building,  of  two  or  three  stories, 
for  it  had  excellent  attics,  besides  a  sunk-story,  finished  with  the 
exactest  neatness.  Through  the  middle  of  the  house  was  a  very 
v/ide  passage  with  opposite  front  and  back  doors,  which  in  sum- 
mer admitted  a  stream  of  air,  refreshing  to  the  languid  senses. 
This  was  furnished  with  chairs  and  pictures  like  a  summer  parlour ; 
and  here  the  family  usually  sat  in  hot  weather,  when  there  was 
no  ceremonious  stranger. 

A  large  portico  at  the  door,  was  laticed  round  and  furnished 
with  seats ;  vines  run  all  through  this  portico,  and  in  it  were  a 
number  of  litde  birds  domesticated.  While  breakfasting  or  drink- 
ing tea  in  the  portico,  birds  were  constantly  gliding  over  the  table 
with  a  butterfly  or  grasshopper  for  their  young  who  were  chirp- 
ing above.  Nests  were  all  around  on  the  trees ;  none  were  allowed 
to  injure  the  birds,  they  were  useful  to  destroy  the  flies,  nmsqui- 
toes,  &c. ;  and  besides  they  gave  the  chorus  of  their  song. 


22  First  Settlement  of  Albany. 

In  summer  the  negroes  resided  in  a  slight  outer  kitchen,  where 
food  was  dressed  for  the  family. 

The  winter  rooms  had  carpet ;  the  lobby  had  oil-cloth  ;  the  best 
bed  room  was  hung  with  family  portraits  well  executed. 

The  house  fronted  the  river,  on  the  brink  of  which  under  shades 
of  elm  and  sycamore,  ran  the  great  road  towards  Saratoga,  Still- 
water, and  the  northern  lakes.  A  little  avenue  of  morilla  cherry 
trees,  led  from  the  house  to  the  road  and  river,  not  three  hundred 
yards  distant. 

^  The  Indian  field  was  the  resting  place  of  all  the  travelling 
Indians,  and  marching  military.  Every  summer  the  place  was 
so  occupied ;  sometimes  there  were  wigwams  erected  there ;  all 
manner  of  garden  stuff,  fruit  and  milk,  were  plentifully  distri- 
buted to  wanderers  of  all  descriptions  from  the  Colonel's  hos- 
pitable store. 

Her  husband.  Col.  Philip  Schuyler,  was  the  first  who  raised  a 
corps  in  the  interior  of  the  province.  This  brought  him  much 
into  intercourse  with  British  military,  and  with  the  governor,  &c. 
Mrs.  S.  by  the  good  sense  and  good  breeding  with  which  she  ac- 
commodated her  numerous  and  various  guests,  without  visible 
bustle  or  anxiety,  showed  herself  worthy  of  her  distinguished  lot. 

Mrs.  Schuyler,  early  in  life,  was  delivered  of  a  dead  child  ;  she 
had  none  of  her  own  afterwards  ;  but  was  constantly  adopting 
and  bringing  up  others.  This  indeed  was  the  practice  of  the  coun- 
try ;  it  was  also  done  by  the  Indians. 

She  was  called  "  Aunt  Schuyler''  when  advanced  in  3^ears,  by 
all  who  knew  her  familiarly  ;  and  "  Madame  Schuyler,"  by  the 
public  in  general.  The  last  soubriquet  she  derived  from  the 
French  Canadian  prisoners,  to  whom  she  had  showed  much  kind- 
ness. 

It  was  one  of  her  singular  merits,  that  after  acting  with  grace 
and  dignity  at  New  York  in  the  governor's  circle,  while  with  her 
husband  making  the  usual  annual  visit  to  New  York  city,  she 
could  return  to  the  homely  good  sense  and  primitive  manners 
of  her  fellow  citizens  of  Albany,  free  from  fastidiousness  and  dis- 
gust. Few  indeed  without  study  or  design,  ever  better  understood 
the  art  of  being  happy  and  making  others  so"too.  All  the  chil- 
dren she  adopted  and  brought  up  were  all  married  to  advantage, 
as  useful  and  refined  women. 

At  the  liberal  table  of  aunt  Schuyler,  where  were  always  intel- 
ligence, just  notions,  and  good  breeding  to  be  met  with,  both 
among  the  owners  and  their  guests  ;  there  were  to  be  met  British 
officers  of  rank  and  merit ;  only  such  could  find  a  welcome  there ; 
and  to  be  unwelcome  there,  was  a  sure  disparagement  upon  any 
person  of  pretension  and  name. 

At  the  fiats,  the  self-righted  boor  learned  civilization  and  sub- 
ordination ;  the  high-bred  and  high-spirited  field  officer,  gentle- 
ness and  respect  for  unpolished  worth. 


First  Settlement  of  %/ilbany.  23 

Neither  influenced  by  female  vanity,  or  female  fastidiousness, 
but  always  taking  liberal  views  of  every  thing,  she  might  very 
truly  say  of  popularity,  as  Falstaff  said  of  Worcester's  rebellion, 
"  it  lay  in  her  way,  and  she  found  it :"  for  no  one  ever  took  less 
pains  to  obtain  it.  She  had  all  the  power  of  superior  intellect, 
without  the  pride  of  it.  But  though  her  conversation  was  reserved, 
for  those  she  preferred,  her  advice,  compassion,  and  good  offices, 
were  always  cordially  given  where  most  needed.  In  the  large 
family  she  had  always  about  her,  she  was  the  guiding  star,  as 
well  as  the  informing  soul,  at  the  same  time  enjoying  and  en- 
couraging innocent  cheerfulness.  She  was  eminent  in  christian 
virtues  and  graces,  and  gave  her  time  to  her  devotions.  Her 
reading  was  always  solid  and  improving  ;  she  loved  and  quoted 
Milton  ;  she  had  always  with  her  some  young  person  "  who  was 
unto  her  as  a  daughter."  She  began  the  morning  with  reading 
the  Scriptures.  After  arranging  her  orders  for  the  day,  she  re- 
tired to  her  closet  to  read,  where  she  generally  remained  till  about 
eleven ;  then  she  went  with  guests  into  the  bower,  in  the  garden, 
or  into  the  portico  to  sit  and  converse  on  useful  topics.  In  con- 
versation, she  certainly  took  delight  and  peculiarly  excelled :  never 
engrossing  or  seeming  to  dictate  therein.  Whenever  she  laid 
down  her  book  in  the  course  of  the  day,  she  immediately  took  up 
her  knitting.  Her  advice  and  opinion  was  often  consulted  in  the 
public  affairs. 

There  was  probably  no  family  possessing  such  uncommonly  well 
trained,  active,  and  diligent  slaves.  There  were  two  races  of  them 
of  two  excellent  mothers,  who  were  severally  ambitious  to  bring 
up  their  children  to  usefulness  in  the  family.  Some  of  them 
could  make  good  tradesmen,  such  as  wheelwrights,  carpenters, 
and  masons  on  the  place.  Being  well  treated  themselves,  they 
were  all  kind  and  gentle  to  the  inferior  animals  imder  their  charge. 
They  all  had  pets  of  their  own  about  the  place,  such  as  squirrels, 
raccoons,  and  beavers. 

Mrs.  Schuyler,  when  her  husband  died  in  1757,  had  him  buried 
in  a  family  ground  near  to  his  own  house.  The  grave  she  used 
to  visit  often,  and  sit  there  and  meditate. 

The  Schuyler  family,  at  the  origin  of  the  American  war  di- 
vided. Some  took  to  the  King,  and  some  to  the  Independence. 
Those  who  adhered  to  the  crown,  were  rewarded  with  grants  of 
land  in  Upper  Canada.  Madame  Schuyler,  however,  remained 
in  Albany,  and  with  much  prudence  avoided  to  take  part  on 
either  side,*  though  her  bias  was  for  the  crown.   She  died  1778-9. 

Mrs.  Schuyler,  after  the  conflagration  of  her  mansion,  at  the 
Flats,  went  to  live  permanently  at  her  house  in  town ;  and  it  so 

•  Maj.  Gen.  Philip  Schuyler,  and  his  services  in  the  Revolution,  are  well 
known  in  our  history.  Burgoyne  destroyed  his  property  at  Saratoga,  to  the 
amount  of  £10,000,  and  was  then  generously  banqueted  at  his  house  in  Albany 
while  a  prisoner. 


24  First  Settlement  of  Albany. 

happeAed,  as  to  be  the  next  door  to  Miss  Anne  Mac  Vicar,  the 
lady  who  became  Mrs.  Grant,  she  then  being  a  child,  when  their 
acquaintance  began.  At  that  time  her  leading  negresses  had 
become  old,  and  laid  by ;  sitting  up  in  the  kitchen,  and  chiefly 
employing  themselves  in  talking  and  smoking.  Madame  too  had 
become  aged,  and  had  lost  many  of  her  former  connections.  The 
future,"from  the  near  approach  of  colonial  opposition,  was  begin- 
ning to  look  dubious  and  cheerless;  which  was  one  reason  probably, 
why  her  active  mind  turned  mostly  on  retrospection.  She  loved 
to  recount  to  young  Miss  Mac  Vicar,  (Mrs.  Grant,)  the  tales  of 
other  times,  because  she  found  in  her  so  good  and  so  interested 
a  listener.  Her  conversation  generally  related  to  the  origin  and 
formation  of  all  she  saw  around  her  in  this  new  world,  and 
afforded  ample  food  for  reflection  to  considerate  minds. 

The  earliest  English  church  in  Albany,  used  to  be  held  by  the 
army  chaplain.  The  same  ministers  used  to  go  and  serve  occa- 
sionally in  Schenectady. 

To  myself,  who  so  well  knew  the  traits  of  Mrs.  Logan^s  cha- 
racter, I  saw  so  many  points  of  resemblance,  in  the  foregoing 
quoted  work  of  Mrs.  Grant's  "Memoirs  of  an" American  lady,'' 
as  made  me  pleased  and  surprised  at  almost  every  page.  The 
foregoing  extracts  are  only  a  few  of  the  many  which  could  be 
felt  to  bear  their  relation  to  the  manner  and  habits  of  Mrs.  Lo- 
gan. They  were  both  superior  women — both  above  the  pride 
and  vanity  of  the  world  around  them — both  religious — and  both 
women  of  easy  elegance  and  refined  conversation — both  of  them 
owed  much  to  their  self-training  and  useful  reading — both  had 
but  ordinary  means  of  original  education.  They  lived  at  a  time 
when  schools  were  only  instituted  for  elementary  objects  ;  and  all 
the  future  advancement  was  to  depend  upon  their  own  use  of 
books,  and  intercourse  with  intelligent  society. 

The  Dutch  forefathers  were  very  religious  in  their  views  and 
feelings — always  manifesting  great  reverence  for  holy  things.  A 
lease  of  1651,  now  in  existence  and  in  the  possession  of  Stephen 
Van  Rensselaer,  "  for  the  old  maize  land  at  Catskill,"  reads  thus  : 
— *'  The  tenant  is  to  read  a  sermon  or  portion  of  the  Scriptures 
every  Sunday  and  high  festival,  to  the  christians  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, and  to  sing  one  or  more  psalms  before  and  after  pray- 
ers, agreeable  to  the  customs  of  the  church  of  Holland."  Cer- 
tainly such  a  reverent  regard  for  the  institutions  of  religion  in  a 
new  settlement,  showed  a  very  considerate  and  commendable 
trait  in  "  the  Director  of  Rensselaer  Wyck,"  the  grantor  of  said 
lease. 

In  the  Dutch  records  found  in  the  archives  at  Albany,  is  a  let- 
ter dated  the  1st  of  January,  1680,  signed  by  Thomas  Ashton 
commander,  Martin  Garretse,  Derek  Wassels,  and  others,  com- 
inissioners  of  Albany,  directed  to  Captain  Brockholst,  then  Go- 
vernor of  New  York,  concerning  the   Great  Comet,  which  had 


First  Settlement  of  *dlbany.  25 

filled  them  with  superstitious  dread,  wherein  they  thus  set  forth 
their  excited  alarms,  to  wit :  "  Hou'd  Sir,  According  to  former 
practice  in  this  season  of  ye  year,  wee  have  sent  this  post  to 
acquaint  you  how  all  affares  are  here  with  us,  which  is  (thanks 
be  to  God)  all  in  peace  and  quietnesse.  The  Lord  continue  ye 
same  through  ye  whole  government.  Wee  doubt  not  but  you 
have  seen  ye  Dreadful  Comet  Star,  which  appeared  in  ye 
southwest  on  ye  9th  December  last,  about  two  o'clock  in  ye  after- 
noon, fair  sunshine  weather,  and  which  takes  its  course  more 
northerly,  and  was  seen  the  Sunday  night  after,  about  twy-light, 
with  a  fiery  tale  or  streamer  in  ye  ivest  to  ye  great  astonishm.ent 
of  all  spectators,  and  is  now  seen  every  night  in  clear  weather. 
Undoubtedly  God  threatens  us  with  dreadful  punishments  if 
we  do  not  repent.  We  would  have  caused  ye  Domine  to  pro- 
claim a  fast — a  day  oi  fasting  and  humiliation  to-morrow,  to 
be  kept  on  Wednesday,  if  wee  thought  our  power  and  authority 
did  extend  so  far:  for  all  persons  ought  to  humble  themselves 
in  such  a  time,  and  pray  to  God  to  withdraw  his  righteous  judg- 
ments from  us,  as  he  did  to  Ninevah,  Wee  should  be  glad  to 
receive  your  approbation  in  this  m,atter,  and  to  have  inonthly, 
a  day  of  fasting  and  humiliation,  and  wee  pray  you  answer  by  the 
bearer." 

We  perhaps  think  we  are  much  wiser  now — certainly  not  more 
reverent  and  God  fearing,  however  better  we  may  now  under- 
stand the  nature  of  harmless  comets.  Had  it  been  "  withdrawn" 
as  they  then  prayed,  who  knows  the  greater  evil  which  might 
have  ensued !  The  Pilgrim  Fathers  of  New  England  were  not 
less  reverent  when  they  saw  only  purposed  judgments  in  their 
influenza,  of  that  period,  when  it,  however,  afflicted  almost  spe- 
cially, their  best  saints. 

Patroon  island,  about  a  mile  below  Albany,  was  visited  by  an 
unprecedented  flood,  in  May,  1833.  It  washed  off"  in  some  places 
the  entire  soil  to  the  depth  of  several  feet ;  exposing  human 
skeletons  buried  after  the  Indian  manner,  in  a  sitting  posture. 
The  island  contained  160  acres  of  rich  soil,  occupied  by  a  dozen 
families  as  cultivators  of  vegetables  for  the  Albany  market. 

The  state  of  the  Patroon,  such  as  was  enjoyed  by  Van  Rens- 
selaer, was  the  nature  of  feudal  prerogative.  As  the  Lord  of 
his  domain,  he  held  a  supremacy  in  judicial  and  military  matters. 
The  courts  administered  justice  in  his  name  ;  and  the  people  took 
their  oath  of  allegiance  and  fealty  to  himself  alone. 

4  C 


26 


SCHENECTADY. 


This  place  was  the  earliest  settlement  inland  from  Albany — 
being  sixteen  miles  distant,  and  was  formed  at  that  place  by  the 
Dutch,  as  the  nearest  proper  landing  at  the  foot  of  the  Mohawk 
navigation.  It  was  the  proper  place  of  the  fur  trade,  where  the 
Indians  brought  their  skins  and  received  their  supplies  in  return. 
It  was  also  for  numerous  years,  the  proper  place  of  shipment  of 
military  supplies,  going  inland  up  the  Mohawk.  Even  before 
the  settlement  of  the  whites  at  this  place,  it  was  the  great  con- 
centration of  Indian  population, — it  having  when  first  known  as 
many  as  eight  hundred  warriors,  and  as  many  as  three  hundred 
of  them  lived  within  the  space  of  what  now  forms  only  one 
farm  in  the  neighbourhood.  All  of  the  earliest  houses  were 
formed  like  those  of  Albany  after  the  manner  of  the  Dutch  con- 
struction. The  first  Dutch  settler  at  Schenectady  was  named 
Corlaer  —  before  1666.  Its  name  signifies  "beyond  the  pine 
plains." 

Being  essentially  a  Dutch  town,  and  far  off  from  city  popula- 
tion, and  city  life,  they  retained  their  primitive  character  unaltered 
for  numerous  years.  They  were  money  making  and  frugal  in 
their  habits ;  familiar  and  hospitable  in  their  social  relations,  and 
being  daily  in  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  they  were  assimilated 
to  them  in  habits  and  feelings.  Their  characteristics  have  been 
aptly  drawn  by  Judge  Miller,  who  speaking  of  them  says,  that 
the  story  of  their  lives  is  only  by  tradition  and  memory — we 
know  that  they  had  industrious  habits,  resolute  minds,  proverbial 
economy  and  signal  integrity ;  they  were  not  men  of  learning  as 
that  term  is  now  understood  ;  they  may  not  have  been  polite  men 
in  the  present  acceptation  of  the  word  ;  and  very  certainly  were 
not  fashionable  men.  None  have  ever  known  an  old,  respectable 
and  sensible  Dutchman  that  had  ever  been  a  fashionable,  nor 
has  any  ever  known  a  young  Dutchwoman  who  ever  made  her- 
self disfigured  by  her  costume,  or  injured  her  health,  for  the  sake 
of  display.  Their  raiment  as  well  as  their  food  was  plain,  ne- 
cessary and  useful,  and  to  this  day,  the  plain,  straight  coat  of  the 
pristine  Dutchman,  the  neat  cap,  and  the  ruddy  countenance, 
smihng  under  the  plain  sun  bonnet  of  the  Dutchwoman,  give 
delight  in  the  recollection.  But  these  men  and  women  are  seen 
now  no  more, — they  are  gone,  and  with  them  their  simplicity, 
and  other  interesting  qualities  which  garnished  and  beautified 
men  and  women  in  the  olden  time.  To  such  ancestors  and 
matrons,  the  present  generation  owe  an  everlasting  debt  of  gra- 
titude and  respect.     They  encountered  all  the  difiiculties  and 


Dutch  House,  Schenectady,  p.  26. 


Dutch  Church,  State  Street,  Albany,  1656  to  1806,  p.  15. 


First  Settlement  of  Schenectady,  27 

hardships  common  to  a  new  country ;  they  were  a  stalwart  and 
hardy  set  of  veterans,  who  made  the  forest  fall  before  them.  If 
our  condition  is  now  more  safe  and  comfortable,  let  us  remember 
that  these  Dutch  forefathers  have  been  the  instruments  and  agents 
of  the  most  of  what  we  now  enjoy. 

Schenectady  as  a  frontier  post  and  town  had  its  defences  of 
stockades  and  palisades,  its  gates  and  its  block-houses.  Prepared 
for  war  it  was  thus  enabled  to  avoid  it,  even  if  hostilities  had 
been  apprehended.  They  however  had  no  enemies  until  they 
became  exposed  to  the  machinations  and  sinister  designs  of  the 
French  in  Canada.  These  with  their  Indians,  becoming  desirous 
of  avenging  the  successful  assault  of  the  Iroquois  on  Montreal,  un- 
dertook a  winter  surprise  in  the  year  1690,  intending,  if  successful 
here,  to  pursue  their  attack  upon  Albany  itself.  In  managing  such 
a  winter  expedition  through  the  snow,  a  party  go  before  in  snow 
shoes,  so  as  to  beat  a  track  for  those  who  follow.  At  night, 
groups  would  dig  holes  in  the  snow,  casting  the  snow  excavated 
on  the  side  next  the  wind — then  they  would  collect  branches  of 
fir-trees  for  their  flooring,  make  their  fire  in  the  centre,  wrap 
themselves  in  their  fur  skins,  and  lay  down  with  their  feet 
towards  the  fire.  In  the  dead  of  night  of  the  8th  of  February, 
when  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow,  a  small  expedition  of 
two  hundred  French  and  a  number  of  Indians,  arrived  unappre- 
hended, and  entering  the  guard  gates  before  the  inhabitants 
could  be  armed  for  defence,  they  forced  and  fired  almost  every 
house,  butchering  sixty  persons  of  every  age  and  sex,  and  bearing 
off  several  prisoners.  The  rest  fled  almost  naked  in  a  terrible 
storm  and  deep  snow.  Several  of  them  lost  their  limbs  through 
the  rigour  of  the  cold.  It  was  an  awful  time  ;  and  long,  long 
was  the  calamity  remembered  and  related  by  the  few  who  sur- 
vived to  keep  alive  the  fearful  story.  Those  who  most  felt  for 
the  sufferers,  and  sighed  most  for  revenge,  had  an  opportunity 
in  the  next  year,  to  join  an  expedition  under  the  command  of 
IVIajor  Peter  Schuyler  of  Albany,  "  the  Washington  of  his  day." 
He  conducted  about  three  hundred  men,  of  whom  the  half  were 
Mohawks  and  Schakook  Indians ;  at  La  Praire  they  encoun- 
tered twelve  hundred  men  under  De  Collieres,  and  in  several 
conflicts  slew  thirteen  officers  and  three  hundred  men,  returning 
home  in -safety.  This  was  certainly  executing  wonders  against 
so  superior  a  force  ! 

It  is  said  to  have  been  a  fact,  that  just  before  the  massacre 
occurred,  Colonel  Glen  tried  to  convey  inteUigence  to  the  Sche- 
nectadians  of  the  approach  of  the  Frenchmen,  while  they  were 
still  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  that  for  this  purpose, 
he  used  the  services  of  a  squaw,  who  had  been  in  the  habit  of 
selling  brooms  in  the  doomed  village.  But  when  she  informed 
some  of  the  villagers,  they  were  incredulous,  as  deeming  it  im- 
possible that  such  an  invasion,  could  be  meditated  in  such  an 


28  First  Settlement  of  Schenectady. 

inclement  season  and  from  such  a  distance.  Tradition  says,  that 
she  paid  a  visit  to  a  certain  widow  who  was  regaling  the  pastor 
of  the  place  with  chocolate,  then  a  luxury.  On  entering  the 
house,  she  gave  some  offence  to  the  widow  by  shaking  off  the 
snow  from  her  moccasons  on  the  newly  scrubbed  floor,  which 
quickly  sent  off  the  squaw,  muttering  as  she  went,  "  it  will  be 
soiled  enough  before  to-morrow  V^  The  name  of  the  pastor  was 
Tassomaker,  and  he  was  the  first  ever  settled  in  the  place.  He 
took  the  alarm,  however,  and  went  away  saying  nothing ;  but 
following  his  own  fears.  He  was  never  seen  or  heard  of  after- 
wards, which  led  some  of  the  good  people  to  apprehend  that  he 
was  spirited  away.  The  widow  too,  somehow,  made  her  retreat, 
and  left  descendants  who  used  to  relate  these  facts  to  subsequent 
generations. 

A  curious  memento  of  the  calamity  has  been  singularly  pre- 
served in  a  family  of  Albany,  being  an  original  manuscript, 
written  by  Walter  Wilie,  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  It 
is  a  relic  of  the  olden'  time  in  itself;  and  if  the  poetry  flows  not 
in  Lydian  measures,  it  was  probably  equal  to  the  poetic  standard 
of  the  day  and  place.  The  writer  designed,  that  it  might  long 
survive  him,  and  it  is  certainly  curious,  that  his  wish  has  been  so 
well  fulfilled,  to  wit  : 

"  A  ballad,  in  which  is  set  forth  the  horrid  cruelties  practised 
by  the  French  and  Indians  on  the  night  of  the  8th  of  last  Febru- 
ary. The  which  I  did  compose  last  night,  in  the  space  of  one 
hour,  and  am  now  writing,  the  morning  of  Friday,  June  12th, 
1690.     W.  W." 

God  prosper  long  our  King  and  Queen 
Our  lives  and  safties  all, 
■    A  sad  misfortune  once  there  did 
Schenectady  befall. 

From  forth  the  woods  of  Canada 

The  Frenchmen  tooke  their  way, 
The  people  of  Schenectady 

To  captivate  and  slay. 

They  marched  for  two  and  twenty  dales. 

All  thro'  the  deepest  snow  ; 
And  on  a  dismal  winter  night 

They  strucke  the  cruel  blow. 

The  lightsome  sun  that  rules  the  day, 

Had  gone  down  in  the  West ; 
And  eke  the  drowsie  villagers 

Had  sought  and  found  their  rests, 

They  thought  they  were  in  safetie  all, 

And  dream pt  not  of  the  foe ; 
But  att  midnight  they  all  awoke. 

In  wonderment  and  woe. 


First  Settlement  of  Schenectady.  29 

For  they  were  in  their  pleasant  Beddes, 

And  soundelie  sleeping,  when 
Each  Door  was  sudden  open  broke 

By  six  or  seven  Men. 

The  Men  and  Women,  younge  &  olde 

And  eke  the  Girls  and  Boys, 
All  started  up  in  great  Affright, 

Att  the  alarming  Noise. 

They  then  were  murthered  in  their  Beddes, 

Without  shame  or  remorse ; 
And  soon  the  Floores  and  Streets  were  strew'd 

With  many  a  bleeding  corse. 

The  Village  soon  began  to  Blaze 

Which  shew'd  the  horrid  sight : — 
But,  O,  I  scarce  can  Beare  to  Tell 

The  Mis'ries  of  that  Night. 

They  threw  the  Infants  in  the  Fire, 

The  Men  they  did  not  spare ; 
But  killed  All  which  they  could  find 

Tho'  Aged  or  tho'  Fair. 

O  Christe !    In  the  still  Midnight  air. 

It  sounded  dismally. 
The  Women's  Prayers,  and  the  loud  screams, 

Of  their  great  Agony. 

Methinks  as  if  I  hear  them  now 

All  ringing  in  my  ear  ; 
The  Shrieks  &  Groanes  &  Woeful  Sighs, 

They  utter'd  in  their  Fear. 

But  some  ran  off  to  Albany, 

And  told  the  doleful  Tale  : 
Yett  tho'  We  gave  our  chearful  Aid, 

It  did  not  much  avail. 

And  We  were  horribly  afraid. 

And  shook  with  Terror,  when 
They  told  us  that  the  Frenchmen  were 

More  than  a  Thousand  Men. 

The  News  came  on  the  Sabbath  Morn 

Just  att  the  Break  of  Day, 
And  with  a  companie  of  Horse 

I  galloped  away. 

But  soone  We  found  the  French  were  gone 

With  all  their  great  Bootye  ; 
And  then  their  trail  We  did  pursue, 

As  was  our  true  Dutye. 

The  Mohaques  joynd  our  brave  Partye, 

And  followed  in  the  chase 
Till  We  came  upp  with  the  Frenchmen, 

Att  a  most  likelye  Place. 
c  2 


30  First  Settlement  of  Schenectady, 

Our  soldiers  fell  upon  their  Reare, 

And  killed  twenty-five, 
Our  Young  Men  were  so  much  enrag'd 

They  took  scarce  One  alive. 

D'Aillebout  them  did  commande, 
Which  were  but  Thievish  Rog-ues, 

Else  why  did  they  consent  and  Goe 
With  Bloodye  Indian  Dogges] 

And  Here  I  End  the  long  Ballad, 
The  Which  you  have  just  redde ; 

And  wish  that  it  may  stay  on  earth 
Long  after  I  am  Dead. 


Albany,  12th  of  June,  1690. 


WALTER  WILIE. 


The  Dutch  of  this  land,  have  always  been  pre-eminent  for  their 
attachment  to  their  church — its  ordinances  and  their  "  Domines." 
It  is  therefore  but  matter  of  necessary  consequence,  that  we 
should  feel  a  satisfaction  in  preserving  the  little  history  of  their 
origin  and  perpetuity. — The  church  records  show — that  their  first 
pastor  was  the  Rev^d  Petrus  Tasschemaker,  from  Holland, 
beginning  his  charge  in  the  year  1684.  Before  that  time  only 
occasional  service  could  be  performed,  in  private  houses,  by 
visiters  from  Albany — and  in  the  meantime  the  better  Christians 
made  their  church  visits  to  the  Albany  church  by  going  and 
returning  in  two  days.  This  honoured  Domine,  as  has  been  told, 
disappeared  mfsteriously  in  the  time  of  the  massacre,  and  was 
succeeded  in  1702,  by  the  Rev'd  Thomas  Brower,  also  from 
Holland,  who  continued  his  services  till  1728,  when  he  died. 
The  Rev'd  Bernardus  Freeman  and  Rynhard  Erkson,  also  from 
Holland,  served  next  in  order.  In  1740,  we  find  the  name  of 
Cornelius  Van  Santvoord,  as  the  settled  clergyman, — he  coming 
from  Staten  Island.  He  died  in  1754,  and  was  succeeded  by  a 
Domine  of  the  place  named  Barent  Vroomer,  who  continued  till 
his  death  in  1782. — His  successors  down  to  the  present  time  were 
all  Americans,  to  wit :  the  Rev'd  Derick  Romeyn,  of  New  Jersey, 
the  Rev'd  John  H.  Myers,  also  from  N.  J.  The  Rev'd  Cornelius 
Bogardus  and  the  Rev'd  Jacob  Van  Vechten,  the  jDresent  pastor. 

The  first  church  was  built  between  the  years  1684  and  1698. 
It  was  located  at  the  south  end  of  Church  street  near  the  head  of 
Water  street.  In  1733  a  more  commodious  one  was  erected  in 
the  centre  of  the  street,  where  Union  and  Church  streets  intersect. 
— This  venerable  pile  was,  by  innovation,  razed  in  1814 — like  a 
similar  church  in  the  street  in  Albany.  Before  going  down,  it 
fell  into  secular  use — such  as  a  watch  house — a  school  house 
and  market.  The  bell  of  this  church  was  remarkable  for  its 
silver  tones,  said  to  have  been  because  of  a  good  proportion  of 
that  metal  in  its  composition. — It  is  at  all  events  a  fact  that  it 
gave  out  a  more  distant  sound,  than  one  of  twice  its  size,  since 


First  Settlement  of  Schenectady.  31 

used  in  another  and  more  modern  church  of  another  reUgious 
denomination. 

It  is  to  be  told  to  the  honour  and  good  feeUng  of  Mr.  Jan 
Rinkhout,  that  he  made  this  church  a  donation  of  that  tract  of 
land  now  called  the  "  poor  pasture/' — so  called  because  the  avails 
were  formerly  applied  to  the  use  of  the  poor  of  the  congregation. 
He  reserved  to  himself  a  small  spot  on  which  he  had  his  hut, 
partly  under  ground — the  remains  of  which  are  still  to  be  seen. 
The  good  man  himself  is  now  underground — and  his  soul  we 
trust  is  in  heaven. 

The  first  English  church,  called  St.  George — was  erected  un- 
der the  auspices  of  Mr.  John  W.  Brown,  who  came  from  Eng- 
land sometime  preceding  the  year  1762, — when  the  Episcopal 
church  was  founded.  Its  principal  benefactors  were  Sir  Wm. 
Johnson  and  John  Duncan,  Esq.  Previous  to  the  Revolution, 
this  church  owned  a  valuable  library.  This  together  with  the 
organ  and  a  greater  part  of  the  interior  work  was  destroyed  by 
some  Indians  and  a  gang  of  lawless  whites.  Strange  as  it  may 
seem,  these  whites  were  fVhigs  ! — of  such  as  were  all  passion 
and  little  sense  !  It  was  called  and  considered  "  the  English 
Church,"  and  as  such  their  rage  was  against  every  thing  Etig- 
lish.  They  of  course  thought  it  was  under  British  influence. 
— They  even  meditated  the  destruction  of  the  pastor's — Mr. 
Doty's  property  ;  but  they  knew  not  his  place  of  abode,  and  as 
none  would  inform  them,  he  escaped  their  ire.  Their  first  pastor 
was  the  Rev.  Wm.  Andrews — he  was  succeedechin  1773,  by  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Doty — who  left  his  charge  in  1777,  probably  as  a  Tory. 
There  was  no  settled  minister  again  until  1791,  when  the  Rev. 
Ammi  Rogers  took  the  charge,  and  has  since  been  succeeded  by 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Whitmore,  the  Rev.  Cyrus  Stebbins,  and  the  Rev. 
P.  A.  Proal. 

We  are  indebted  for  several  of  the  preceding  facts  to  the  indus- 
try and  kindness  of  Giles  F.  Yates,  Esq. 

In  excavating  the  earth  through  a  little  hillock,  for  the  track 
of  the  Utica  and  Schenectady  railroad,  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort 
Johnson,  four  miles  west  from  Amsterdam,  a  number  of  human 
skulls  and  bones  were  found  about  two  feet  below  the  surface, 
being  evidently  the  remains  of  Indians.  At  the  head  of  the 
bodies  was  a  copper  kettle  and  a  quantity  of  wampum,  a  piece 
of  rich  Indian  blanket,  and  a  silver  breast  plate. 

As  late  as  the  year  1785,  a  deer  was  shot  in  the  town  of  Rot- 
terdam, by  Lewis  Peek.  Since  then  none  have  been  seen  in  this 
county,  although  they  formerly  abounded,  as  did  also  wolves  and 
panthers.  Only  twenty-five  years  ago  a  wolf  was  seen  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  this  city.  Major  J.  J.  Tonda  of  Glenville, 
pursued  and  killed  it.  No  bear  has  been  seen  in  the  vicinity 
since  1770,  not  a  single  buffalo  since  1783,  nor  a  panther  since 
1784.    Grouse  once  numerous  have  not  been  seen  since  1740. 


32  First  Settlement  of  Schenectady. 

The  first  settler  on  Norman's  Kill,  Within  the  present  bounds 
of  Schenectady  nigh  Princetown,  was  John  Hendrick  Van  Bale, 
who  received  his  patent  in  the  year  1672.  The  Indian  name  of 
the  creek  is  To-was-sent-haw,  meaning  a  place  of"  many  dcad.^' 
The  word  haw  is  used  as  an  affix  to  many  Indian  words,  and 
implies  place,  and  "  Ha-ga"  the  inhabitants  of  a  place,  and  thus 
Caugh-nawaga-haga,  means  the  people  of  Caugh-nawaga.  A 
Norman  family  of  the  name  of  De  Foix,  corrupted  to  De  Fox, 
gave  the  name  to  Norman's  creek,  and  also  to  Fox's  creek. 
This  family  at  a  very  early  period  owned  land  at  both  places. 

The  first  settler  at  Amsterdam,  was  Albert  H.  Vedder,  who 
went  there  in  1 784.    The  Indians  called  the  place  Chuck-ta-nunda. 

Such  names  as  Amsterdam  and  Rotterdam,  evince  their  Dutch 
origin,  just  as  the  Haldeburgh,  shows  that  of  the  Germans. 

Scenuscios,  an  Indian  of  the  Oneida  tribe,  lived  many  years 
on  the  Bouwlandt.  His  wigwam  stood  on  the  land  of  Van  Otto. 
He  died  in  the  year  1781,  at  the  age  of  96  years;  he  was  the 
father  of  the  celebrated  Skenando,  who  lived  to  110  years. 

Sechehowan,  a  chief  of  the  Mohawk  tribe,  spent  the  whole  of 
a  long  life  in  the  Bouwlandt.  He  was  the  last  of  the  Sachems, 
was  very  brave  and  intelligent,  and  was  much  attached  and  ser- 
viceable to  the  whites.  He  died  in  1783,  upwards  of  100  years 
of  age.  In  dying  he  said,  now  I  am  going ;  the  whites  may  come 
and  take  all !  His  grave  still  known,  is  on  the  west  of  Schulen- 
berg  creek,  near  the  residence  of  Bartholomew  Schermerhorn,  Esq. 

The  cone-roof 'd  cabins  melt  away, 
And  pale-fac'd  strangers  bear  the  sway ! 

"  Mill  creek,"  which  now  seems  a  creek,  was  originally  a 
canal,  dug  110  years  ago.  The  object  was  to  furnish  a  mill-site 
near  the  town  of  Schenectady,  and  for  a  long  time,  it  sufficiently 
answered  that  purpose. 

At  the  time  of  the  great  freshet  in  1832,  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  Bouwlandt  was  overflowed,  a  deep  hole  was  made  in  the 
Erie  canal,  near  the  city,  and  at  the  bottom,  at  20  feet  below  the 
surface  of  the  flats,  was  found  a  stratum  of  leaves,  more  than  six 
inches  thick.  A  similar  deposit  was  found  in  digging  a  well  for 
Judge  De  Graff".  At  a  few  rods  distance,  on  the  south  side  of 
the  river,  at  the  depth  of  20  feet,  trunks  and  bodies  of  trees  are 
still  to  be  seen,  projecting  into  the  water,  and  showing,  probably, 
the  shifting  of  the  banks  in  ancient  times. 

In  the  Bouwlandt,  at  the  foot  of  the  verge  of  the  hills  skirting 
the  flats,  near  the  residence  of  John  J.  Van  Eps,  Esq.,  a  moundhdiS 
been  noticed  for  many  years.  In  levelling  it  for  building  in  1832, 
the  workmen  came  across  a  human  skeleton  of  great  stature.  It 
was  seated  in  the  centre  of  the  mound,  with  his  face  to  the  east, 
(why  the  east  ?)  and  by  its  side  was  an  earthen  vessel  in  fine 
preservation ;  it  was  18  inches  high,  rested  upon  four  feet  of  two 


First  Settlement  of  Schenectady,  33 

inches  length,  and  would  have  been  preserved  as  a  curiosity,  had 
not  the  foolish  workmen  broken  it  up  in  the  hopes  of , finding 
money ! 

As  a  proof  of  the  entire  Dutch  character  of  Schenectady,  we 
here  add  the  names  of  sundry  streets,  as  originally  called.  We 
feel  a  penchant  for  their  preservation  in  this  way.  The  reading 
of  them  seems  to  bring  us  back  to  the  freshness  of  olden  time. 
Longen  gang  was  the  ancient  name  of  the  present  Maiden  lane. 
It  was  long  the  place  and  scene  of  their  horse  and  foot  races.  It 
was  also  famed  as  the  night  resort  of  sp hooks  and  spectres  dire. 
Aghter  straat  was  the  name  of  the  present  Green  street.  Nisk- 
ayuna  straat  is  now  Union  street.  The  "  old  Fort,"  (once  the 
new  Fort,)  was  at  corner  of  Cherry  and  Church  streets.  Sundry 
localities  or  quarters,  for  there  were  not  many  streets,  may  be 
thus  designated  as  Hoechjen,  viz  :  ^'Maihemas'^  should  be  Mar- 
thamet,  (i.  e.  aunt  Martha,)  "  Boshe-boys^^  should  be  Bathsheba, 
and  ^'Honsum^^  should  be  Hanson.  Judge  Tomlinson's  comer 
was  called  Wilhelmus  Vaders  Hoeckjen.  The  Mohawk  Bank 
corner,  Garret  Simondse  Hoeckjen.  Helenamet  Hoeckjen  was 
the  quarter  at  the  west  end  of  Front  and  Washington  streets. 
This  last  place  was  also  called  Gouden  Hoeckjen,  meaning  the 
Golden,  because  the  richest  people  generally  resided  there. — 
[There  was  a  similar  Golden  place  in  New  York  City — such  as 
Gouden  berg,  i.  e.  Golden  Hill  ?]  The  principal  points  of  the 
city  called  ^' Hookey s^^  were  also  thus  designated,  viz.,  Honsum^s 
Hookey,  at  the  corner  of  Church  and  State  streets,  where  the  old 
men  assembled,  leaning  on  their  staves,  smoking  their  pipes,  and 
discussing  the  topics  of  the  day.  How  different  from  any  present 
topics  !  Shuter's  Hookey,  corner  of  Washington  and  State  streets 
— still  retains  its  ancient  appellative.  Thank  the  moderns  for  this  ! 
De  Noord  Hoek  and  Be  Zuyd  Hoek — (north  and  south  corners,) 
and  Caleb  Beck's  corner  or  Hookey,  is  now  the  corner  of  Union 
and  Church  streets.  For  all  these  illustrations  of  names  of  by- 
gone days,  we  are  indebted  to  the  gentleman  before  named,  Giles 
F.  Yates,  Esq. 

In  the  year  1748,  during  the  French  and  Indian  war,  one 
Daniel  Toll,  a  farmer,  being  out  three  miles  from  Schenectady 
in  search  of  his  stray  horses,  was  fired  on  and  killed  by  Indians. 
His  servant  giving  the  alarm,  there  went  out  sixty  young  men 
from  the  town  in  pursuit ;  but  while  they  were  viewing  the 
body,  the  Indians  in  ambush,  surprised  them  and  killed  half  of 
the  party.  Their  corpses  were  returned  to  their  homes  in  the 
same  evening.  What  a  time  of  deep  mourning  it  must  have 
been  to  families  to  lose  so  many  young  men  at  once,  from  a  town 
of  small  population ! 

In  June  1759,  a  party  of  Indians  assaulted  a  woman,  servant, 
and  child,  between  Fort  Johnson  and  Schenectady,  and  attacked 
some  men  in  a  boat  on  the  Mohawk.     The  woman  was  scalped, 

5 


34         First  Settlement  of  Brooklyn  and  Long  Island. 

and  reached  Schenectady,  and  the  child  and  servant  were  borne 
off  as  prisoners. 

On  one  occasion,  of  about  a  century  ago,  a  young  couple  who 
were  to  have  been  married,  and  were  to  pass  the  Tomhanic  creek 
to  meet  their  parson,  were  prevented  from  joining  their  minister 
by  the  sudden  flood  of  the  creek,  and  they  were  actually  married, 
by  the  reading  of  the  marriage  ceremony,  with  the  parties  divid- 
ed on  the  two  sides  of  the  creek. 


EARLY  SETTLEMENT  AND  INCIDENTS  AT 
BROOKLYN  AND  LONG  ISLAND. 

"  These  are  Ihy  annals,  briefly  told." 

Brooklyn,  originally  spelt  Breucklyn,  and  meaning  broken 
land,  was  first  settled  by  George  Jansen  de  Rapaelje,  and  other 
Frenchmen,  who  located  themselves  at  the  place  called  the  Waal 
boght  or  Waloon  bay.  His  compatriots  were  Le  Escuyer,  Du- 
regee,  Le  Sillier,  Cershaw,  Conscilleur  and  Musserol,  members 
of  the  Hugonaut  emigration.  The  earliest  deed  for  land  there 
is  from  Governor  Keift,  in  1638,  to  Abraham  Ryckern  ;  ,and  the 
oldest  recorded  grant  is  to  Thomas  Basker,  in  1639.  This  must 
be  considered  as  among  the  first  of  the  permanent  Dutch  settle- 
ments on  Long  Island.  The  Dutch  commenced  their  settlements 
on  Long  Island  at  the  west  end  as  early  as  1625.  The  English 
about  the  same  time  at  the  east  end. 

In  1659,  the  inhabitants  made  a  call  of  the  Rev.  Henry  Solinias 
as  their  pastor,  sent  out  from  Holland.  Their  first  church  was 
built  in  1666,  and  stood  about  forty  years,  when  another  was  erect- 
ed on  the  same  site,  and  stood  till  1810,  when  a  new  one  was 
built  on  Jerolemon  street,  which  is  again  superseded  by  another 
of  more  costly  character. 

Brooklyn  was  originally  connected  with  Governor's  Island  at 
Red  Hook  point,  so  that  cattle  were  once  driven  across  the  pre- 
sent Buttermilk  channel.  This  channel  has  probably  been  since 
deepened  by  the  extension  of  the  wharves  on  the  East  River. 

The  Dutch  on  Long  Island  were  always  careful  to  obtain  their 
lands  there,  by  purchases  from  the  Indians.  Several  of  such 
deeds  are  to  be  found  recorded,  and  therein  show,  that  there 
were  originally  on  the  Island,  several  tribes  of  different  national 
or  distinctive  names. 

The  redoubts  at  Brooklyn,  formed  by  the  Americans  in  1776, 
before  the  British  landed  from  Staten  Island,  near  the  present 
Fort  Hamilton,  formed  a  line  of  intrenchments,  from  a  ditch  near 
the  late  toll-house  of  the  Bridge  company,  at  the  Navy  Yard, 


First  Settlement  of  Brooklyn  and  Long  Island,        35 

down  to  Fort  Green,  then  called  Fort  Putnam,  and  from  thence 
to  Freek's  mill-pond.  A  strong  work  was  erected  on  the  lands 
of  Johannes  Deberoice  and  of  Van  Brunt ;  a  redoubt  was  thrown 
up  on  Boemus'  hill,  opposite  Brown's  mill ;  and  another  was  on 
the  land  of  John  Johnson,  west  of  Fort  Green.  Poniesburg,  now 
Fort  Swift,  was  fortified,  and  a  fort  was  built  on  the  land  of  Mr. 
Hicks,  on  Brooklyn  heights.  At  the  same  time  Chevaux  de  frise 
was  sunk  in  the  main  channel  of  the  river  below  New  York.  In  a 
short  time  all  this  expensive  and  toilsome  preparation  of  defence, 
went  for  nothing,  when  yielding  to  the  superior  appointments 
and  strength  of  the  enemy  !     Sucli  is  la  fortune  de  la  guerro  ! 

While  Gen.  Washington  was  present,  he  occupied  as  his  quar- 
ters a  low  Dutch  house  of  1699,  on  the  Gowanus  road,  near  the 
shore,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  South  ferry.  The  same 
now  owned  by  Mr.  Cortelyou. 

Brooklyn  is  deservedly  remembered  as  the  depository  of  the 
bones  of  11,000  American  prisoners  sacrificed  to  the  cruelties  of 
war.  For  further  particulars  concerning  the  Prison  ships  moored 
at  the  Wallabout,  and  their  suffering  and  dying  inmates,  see  the 
Chapter  concerning  the  Incidents  of  the  War. 


Gravesend,  was  settled  in  1 640  by  emigrants  from  Massachu- 
setts, who  had  before  gone  there  from  England.  These  were 
soon  joined  by  Lady  Deborah  Moody,  and  her  son,  Sir  Henry 
Moody.  She  was  a  woman  of  wealth,  who  with  her  associates 
were  obliged  to  leave  Lynn  and  other  places  of  Massachusetts, 
because  of  their  religious  sentiments,  such  as  her  discountenancing 
infant  baptism,  &c.  After  her  arrival  her  house  was  several  times 
assailed  by  the  Indians.  She  was  held  in  much  estimation  by 
Gov.  Stuyvesant.  The  original  records  of  this  town  are  still  pre- 
served from  the  year  1645. 

Smithstown,  was  settled  by  Richard  Smith,  from  Gloucester, 
in  England.  He  settled  first  at  Boston,  in  1630,  then  at  Narra- 
ganzett.  In  1656,  he  came  to  this  town  on  Long  Island.  He 
had  great  interest  with  the  Indians,  and  acquired  large  tracts  of 
their  land,  which  was  afterwards  confirmed  to  him  by  Governor 
Andros,  in  1677.  His  will  of  1691,  on  record,  shows  a  large  es- 
tate, and  numerous  names  of  legatees  and  relatives.  They  became, 
indeed,  so  numerous,  as  to  take  distinctive  family  divisions,  such 
as  the  Bull  Smiths,  (from  the  family  use  of  a  bull  for  riding  pur- 
poses ;)  the  Tangier  Smiths,  because  once  connected  with  Tangier. 
There  were  also  the  Rock  Smiths,  and  the  Blue  Smiths.  Thus 
showing  even  in  that  early  day,  the  present  perplexing  difficulty 
of  identifying  the  abounding  progeny  of  the  Smiths  ! 

Gardiner^ s  Island,  a  place  of  3300  acres,  was  settled  by  Lyon 
Gardiner,  in  1641.  He  was  by  birth  a  Scotchman,  who  had  at- 
tached himself  to  Cromwell,  he  v/ent  to  Holland,  there  married 
a  Dutch  girl,  then  went  out  to  Saybrook  Fort,  where  he  had  com- 


36        First  Settlement  of  Brooklyn  and  Long  Island. 

mand,  thence  went  to  his  island  at  Long  Island.  It  has  been 
made  remarkable  by  having  been  a  favourite  visiting  place  of 
Capt.  Kidd,  the  pirate  ;  there  he  buried  and  hid  some  of  his  trea- 
sure, which  became  known  to  Gardiner,  and  was  given  up  by 
him  to  the  commissioners  of  Governor  Bellamont,  after  Kidd's 
arrest  and  imprisonment  at  Boston.  On  one  occasion  Kidd  pre- 
sented Mrs.  Gardiner  with  a  cloth  of  gold,  which  has  been  pre- 
served in  the  family.  The  original  receipt  given  to  the  Gardiner 
family  for  the  treasure  surrendered,  is  sufficiently  curious  at  this 
day  to  be  here  copied,  as  it  tends  to  show  the  kind  of  treasure  for 
which  the  "  money  diggers"  have  been  so  long  and  so  fruitlessly 
employed.     To  wit : — 

*d  true  account  of  all  such  gold,  silver,  jewels,  and  merchan- 
dize, late  in  the  possession  of  Capt.  fVm.  Kidd,  which  had 
been  seized  and  secured  by  us  -pursuant  to  an  order  from 
his  Excellency,  Richard,  Earl  of  Bellamont,  bearing  date 
July  7,  1699. 
Received,  the  17th  instant,  of  Mr.  John  Gardiner,  viz. 


Ounces. 

.  .  .  633 

11 

124 

241 

y  precious  stones,       4 1 

\2h 


No.  1.  One  bag  of  dust,  gold, 

2.  One  bag  of  coined  gold, 

and  one  in  silver,     . 

3.  One  bag  of  dust,  gold, 

4.  One  bag  of  silver  rings  and  sund 

5.  One  bag  of  unpolished  stones, 

6.  One  piece  of  crystal,  cornelian  rings,  two  agates, 

two  amethysts, 

7.  One  bag  of  silver  buttons  and  lamps, 

8.  One  bag  of  broken  silver, 

9.  One  bag  of  golden  bars, 

10.  One  do.         do.       do. 

11.  One  bag  of  dust,  gold, 

12.  One  bag  of  silver  bars, 
Samuel  Sewall,         Nathl.  Byfield, 
Jeremiah  Dummer,    Andw.  Belcher 


:i 


173^ 

353i 
238^ 
59^ 
309 


Co?nmiss'rs, 


If  the  proper  owners  of  the  foregoing  certified  treasure  could 
but  appear  to  tell  their  separate  tales  of  woe,  in  their  several 
losses  of  wealth  and  life,  by  the  hands  of  the  pirates,  what  an 
array  of  ghosts  would  appear. 


Flushing. — This  ancient  village  was  begun  in  1644.  Soon 
after  it  was  visited  by  the  Quakers,  sundry  of  whom  settled  there. 
George  Fox  preached  there  in  1672,  under  the  two  great  oaks 
still  there,  at  the  Bowne  house.  The  Episcopal  church  was 
formed  there  in  1720,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Society  for  the 
Gospel  in  Foreign  Parts. 

It  has  lately  come  to  pass  that  by  opening  a  railroad  half  through 


The  Original  Exploration  of  the  Country.  37 

the  length  of  Long  Island,  to  the  Babylon  watering  place,  they 
have  reached  the  wild  pine  lands,  filled  with  "  herds  of  tranquil 
deer."  This,  strange  to  tell  in  four  hours  move  from  New  York, 
and  we  are  sorry  to  add,  with  the  prospect  of  their  extermination, 
there  having  been  as  many  as  eight  hundred  of  these  foresters 
slain  there  within  the  last  year  !— all  is  going. 


THE  ORIGINAL  EXPLORATION    OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

"  My  soul,  revolving  periods  past,  looks  back 
On  all  the  former  darings  of  that  vent'rous  race." 

The  memorable  landing  day  of  the  discoverer  and  his  crew 
was  on  the  3^  September,  1609.  On  that  day,  so  soft  and  genial 
as  a  grateful  summer  season,  as  Capt.  Hudson  was  ranging  the 
line  of  our  Jersey  sea-bound  shore,  in  going  northward  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Delaware,  which  he  had  just  before  discovered,  he 
beheld  far  a-head  in  the  northwestern  sky,  the  Highlands  of 
Nave-sink,  and  not  long  after  the  lofty  and  woody  lands  of  Staten 
Island ;  both  at  once  designating  the  locality  and  conferring  the 
name  of  "  the  Great  River  of  the  Mountains."  Such  conspicu- 
ous objects  seen  far  off  at  sea,  and  mounting  upward  into  the 
calm  blue  sky,  were  too  attractive  and  unusual  not  to  invite  a 
nearer  approach  and  closer  inspection.  Their  hearts  beat  high 
with  vague  and  mysterious  conceptions  about  the  unknown — 
Terra  Incognita.  Examination  alone  could  allay  or  repress  the 
feverish  curiosity  of  the  mind,  and  to  sail  inward  to  the  land,  and 
to  visit  this  new  region  of  the  west,  became  at  once  the  object 
and  the  desire  of  every  mariner.  Little  thought  they,  however, 
as  they  passed  the  sea-beach  strand  of  Monmouth  county,  and 
looked  ashore  upon  the  rude  and  blank  margin  of  Long  Branch, 
of  the  improvement  and  fashionable  resort  to  which  it  was  des- 
tined ;  and  still  less  did  they  imagine  they  were  to  find  and  ex- 
plore a  great  river,  which  was  to.  take  the  name  and  confer  an 
immortality  of  fame  upon  its  discoverer  and  explorer.  Thus 
events  in  time,  sometimes  trivial  in  themselves,  become  by  the 
force  of  circumstances  the  counters  of  whole  ages. 

The  first  land  so  made,  on  the  day  aforesaid,  was  Sandt  Hook 
— Sandy  Hook.  There  he  observed  the  waters  were  swarming 
with  fish,  and  he  soon  after  sent  his  boat's  crew  with  a  net  to 
procure  a  supply.  The  tradition  has  been  that  in  so  doing  they 
first  made  ashore  on  Coney  Island,  (wishing  perhaps  to  see  the 
opposite  side  of  the  bay,)  and  that  there  Hudson  was  at  first 
received  by  the  natives,  the  Matouwacks.  There  they  found 
vast  numbers  of  plum-trees  loaded  with  fruit,  and  manv  of  them 

D 


38  The  Original  Exploration  of  the  Country. 

surrounded  and  covered  by  grape  vines.  While  the  ship,  the 
Half  Moon,  was  at  her  anchorage  at  the  Horse-shoe  harbour,  she 
was  much  visited  by  the  natives  of  the  Jersey  shore,  a  race  of 
Dela wares  called  Sanhikans  ;  they  rejoicing  greatly  at  the  arri- 
val of  the  strangers,  and  bringing  them  for  their  acceptance  green 
tobacco,  dried  currants  or  whortleberries,  &c.  The  shores  were 
lined  with  natives,  wearing  mantles  of  furs  and  feathers,  and 
having  copper  ornaments  and  pipes.  The  crew  on  going  ashore, 
were  received  with  great  cordiality,  and  were  conducted  ipr  obser- 
vation some  distance  into  the  woods  of  Monmouth  county.  Dur- 
ing the  week  which  was  passed  at  this  anchorage,  a  boat  was 
sent  with  an  exploring  party  to  sound  and  examine  the  passage 
of  the  Narrows,  called  by  them  the  Hoof  den,  or  head  lands ;  but 
the  men,  in  returning,  were  unexpectedly  attacked  by  two  passing 
canoes  of  26  Indians,  in  which  rencontre  one  Colman,  an  English- 
man, was  killed,  and  two  others  wounded,  by  their  arrows.  The 
Indians  were  supposed  to  have  acted  in  alarm,  and  seemed  to 
have  had  no  design  of  conquering,  but  made  off  as  hastily  as 
they  could.  Possibly  they  were  of  the  same  race  who  dwelt  on 
York  Island,  and  who,  from  their  dread  of  reprisal,  may  have 
been  afterwards  so  reluctant  to  free  intercourse  and  trade.  Col- 
man was  buried  at  the  Hook,  at  the  place  called  Colman's 
Point. 

The  country  thus  discovered  took  the  name  of  New  Belgium 
(Nova  Belgica)  and  New  Netherland  (Nieuw  Nederlandt).  The 
North  River  was  called  by  Hudson,  not  after  his  own  name,  as 
we  since  should  designate  it,  but  "the  Great  River" — Groot 
Rivier.  After  the  year  1623,  it  was  sometimes  named  in  writings 
the  Mauritius,  in  honour  of  Prince  Maurice;  by  others  it  was  often 
called  Manhattan  river.  But  its  most  prevalent  name  in  common 
acceptation  was  the  Noordt  Rivier  (North  River),  both  as  a  distinc- 
tion to  the  Delaware  river,  which  they  called  their  South  River, 
and  as  discriminating  it  from  the  Oost  Rivier — East  River.  To  the 
Indians  it  was  known  as  the  Cohohatatea  and  Shatemuc,  and 
Heckewelder  says  it  bore  the  name  of  Mohicannittuck,  meaning 
the  River  of  the  Mohiccans,  who  dwelt  all  along  its  eastern  side. 

Staten  Island  was  also  called  Staaten  Eylandt  by  the  Dutch,  and 
Aquehonga  Manacknong  by  the  Indians  residing  there.  They 
were  Mohiccans,  a  tribe  of  the  Lenni  Lenape  or  Delawares. 
Seals  were  once  numerous  back  of  the  Island,  and  in  New  York 
harbour,  near  to  the  Communipaw  side.  Robins'  reef  near  there 
(originally  spelt  Robyns  rift),  meant  the  seals'  place ;  "  Robyn" 
being  the  name  of  a  seal.  Governor's  Island  was  originally 
called  Nooten  Eylandt,  or  Nut  Island,  in  reference  to  its  abun- 
dance of  nut  trees  ;  and  was  formerly  nearly  joined  to  Long  Island 
by  a  low  intervening  morass  and  a  small  dividing  creek. 

On  the  morning  of  the  12th  SeptembeV,  Capt.  Hudson  entered 
the  mouth  of  the  "  Groot  Rivier"  and  cast  anchor,  when  2S 


The  Original  Exploration  of  the  Country.  39 

canoes,  full  of  men,  women,  and  children,  came  off  to  them  ;  but 
from  fear  of  treachery  they  were  not  permitted  to  board.  At 
noon  his  ship  went  onward  two  leagues  higher.  And  now,  having 
begun  the  memorable  exploration  of  the  river,  we  shall  endeavour 
to  mark  his  daily  progress  of  ascent  and  descent,  and  carefully 
note  the  names  of  Indian  tribes,  and  the  names  which  they 
bestowed  on  localities ;  for  as  their  names  were  always  expres- 
sive of  things  about  the  place,  their  preservation  may  some  day 
serve  to  elucidate  some  dubious  question  in  history. 

In  two  days  more  Hudson  reached  the  high  and  wild  regions 
of  West  Point,  where,  looking  around  upon  the  elevation  of  1 500 
feet,  he  records  that "  the  land  grew  very  high  and  mountainous." 
These  mountain  regions  bore  the  name  of  Mateawan  ;  and  there 
the  Indians  held  the  traditionary  tale  of  the  fearful  mammoth, 
called  by  them  the  Yagesho,  which  sometimes  dismayed  these 
highland  Wabingi.  The  scenery  was  grand  and  sublime.  "  He 
perceived  (says  Moulton)  at  one  time  the  narrow  stream  upon 
which  he  had  entered,  abruptly  struggling  with  the  angles  of  the 
hills,  through  broken  rocks,  under  overhanging  precipices,  or 
along  the  base  of  perpendicular  iron-bound  summits,  whose  oppo- 
site sides  indicated  a  former  union  which' some  convulsion  of  nature 
had  severed.  Here  a  perpendicular  presented,  there  a  declivity  ; 
here  terrace  rose  upon  terrace,  there  rocks  upon  rocks ;  the  whole 
a  wild  and  magnificent  scene."  How  their  hearts  must  have 
throbbed  with  pure  sublimity  of  emotion,  seeing  such  rugged  and 
horrific  wilds,  contemplating  their  own  loneliness,  so  far  in  an 
unknown  and  dubious  region ;  fearing  dangers,  yet  delighted 
with  actual  vision,  with  scenery  so  grand  and  picturesque  ! 

By  the  15th  September  he  had  passed  the  high  mountains 
between  Peekskill  and  Newburgh,  making  50  miles  in  one  day, 
and  observing  "  great  store  of  salmons  in  the  river"  (now  all 
gone).  He  came  at  night  to  the  place  of  the  present  Catskill 
Landing,  where  he  found  "  a  very  loving  people  and  a  very  old 
man,  by  whom  he  and  his  crew  were  very  well  used."  The  man- 
ner of  this  reception  may  be  interesting  now  to  contemplate. 
Hudson  was  taken  ashore  in  one  of  their  canoes  with  an  old  man, 
a  chief  The  house  he  entered  was  neatly  made  of  bark  of  trees, 
well  finished  within  and  without.  He  saw  much  of  Indian  corn 
and  beans  drying,  enough  to  load  three  ships ;  mats  were  spread 
to  sit  on,  and  eatables  were  immediately  brought  to  them  in 
wooden  bowls.  Two  men  were  quickly  sent  off  with  bows  and 
arrows  for  game,  and  soon  returned  with  two  pigeons.  They 
also  killed  a/«/  dog,  and  skinned  it  with  shells.  Pumpkins,  grapes, 
plums,  and  tobacco,  grew  about  the  place. 

The  next  day,  the  17th,  Hudson  anchored  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  present  Hudson  city,  little  dreaming  then  of  his  ever  giving 
name  to  the  place  or  to  the  river.  About  this  place  he  lingered 
some  time,  as  being  near  the  head  of  navigation,  and  still  more 


40  The  Original  Exploration  of  the  Country. 

he  rested  near  the  same  place  on  his  return,  by  reason  of  head 
winds  ;  just  as  if  there  was  some  mysterious  connection  between 
his  choice  of  a  stopping-place  and  the  choice  made  by  posterity, 
in  the  year  1784,  of  a  city  in  the  same  place  to  bear  his  dis- 
tinguished name  !  It  was  in  this  vicinity  that  their  eyes  were 
gratified  with  the  sublime  heights  of  the  Kaatberges,  where  the 
highest,  the  Round  Top,  lifted  its  awful  form  3,800  feet. 

After  making  the  necessary  soundings,  by  boat,  over  the  Over- 
slaugh, the  yacht  reached  in  safety  the  Castle  Island  just  below 
Albany.  She  was  of  course  of  easy  draft,  and  must  have  been 
a  small  vessel,  though  called  a  ship  ;  probably  of  the  burthen  of 
sixty  tons. 

On  the  1 9th  September  he  again  weighed  anchor,  and  ascended 
six  miles  higher  up  ;  thus  making  his  highest  point  of  ascension 
equal  to  the  upper  end  of  the  present  Albany.  The  particulars 
of  his  stay  there  are  related  under  the  article  concerning  that  set- 
tlement. 

On  the  23d,  Hudson  started  on  his  return  from  Albany.  In 
their  descent  they  stopped  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  present 
Red  Hook,  and  caught  within  an  hour  "  two  dozen  of  mullets, 
breames,  basses,  and  barbils.^^  When  they  anchored  off  the 
present  Poughkeepsie,  they  were  visited  by  some  natives  bring- 
ing with  them  Indian  corn. 

By  the  29th  he  had  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  Highlands, 
called  by  him  "  the  northernmost  of  the  mountains,"  where  he 
anchored  in  or  near  the  bay  of  the  present  Newburgh ;  and  then 
he  could  not  forbear  to  make  the  remark,  since  so  obvious  to 
others,  that  "  here  was  a  very  pleasant  place  to  build  a  towne.'* 
Newburgh,  so  beautiful  in  its  aspect  and  surrounding  scenery  seen 
from  the  river,  has  every  thing  to  delight  the  eye.  At  this  place 
he  was  visited  by  the  Wabingi. 

The  next  stopping-place  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Stony  Point, 
and  at  the  mouth  of  Haverstraw  Bay.  Here  the  natives,  the 
proper  Highlanders,  came  in  numbers  to  the  ship,  expressing  their 
admiration  at  what  they  saw  of  the  great  canoe  and  the  white 
skins.  One  of  them,  in  his  eagerness  to  get  something  away 
which  might  gratify  curiosity  at  home,  had  attempted  clandes- 
tinely to  enter  the  cabin  windows,  when  the  mate  with  heedless 
cruelty  struck  off  his  hand  with  a  sabre,  and  the  poor  fellow  fell 
back  into  the  water  and  was  drowned. 

The  next  day,  the  2d  of  October,  they  reached  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Fort  Washington,  where  they  were  assailed  with  the 
arrowy  of  some  assembled  natives,  who  came  off  in  canoes. 
Firearms  and  cannon  were  discharged  in  return,  by  which  nine 
of  the  Indians  were  killed ;  a  deplorable  severity. 

On  the  4th  October,  Hudson  "  left  the  great  mouth  of  the  great 
river,"  and  with  full  sail  put  off  to  sea.  Thus  terminated  about 
one  month  of  successful  exploration,  in  a  fine  season,  and  with 


The  Original  Exploration  of  the  Country.  41 

almost  continual  fine  weather.  He  was  just  eleven  days  in  ascend- 
ing and  eleven  more  in  returning.  Several  times  he  was  grounded, 
but  was  readily  got  off.  Such  small  vessels  was  the  practice  of 
the  age.  Vessels  of  from  only  20  to  30  tons  went  out  to  Virginia, 
from  England.  A  steam  vessel,  since,  bearing  the  name  of 
"  Hudson,'^  performs  now  the  same  voyage  in  almost  as  many 
hours  as  Hudson  then  used  days  !  Such  were  the  results  to  which 
he  was  so  unconsciously  opening  his  mtroductory  measures. 

As  a  navigator,  Hudson  seems  to  have  been  prudent,  skilful, 
dignified,  and  humane  ;  and  well  deserved  to  have  lived  to  have 
witnessed  some  of  the  developments  of  his  eventful  discovery. 
But  his  noble  career  was  soon  closed.  After  arriving  at  Dart- 
mouth in  England,  on  the  7th  November,  after  a  safe  voyage, 
and  acquiring  great  fame  for  his  discovery,  he  embarked  again 
in  April  1610,  on  his  favourite  expedition — the  discovery  of  the 
northwest  passage  to  India.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  Iceland 
his  crew  mutinied ;  and  on  Sunday  the  21st  June,  1611,  they 
forced  Capt.  Hudson  and  his  youthful  son,  and  seven  others,  adrift 
in  a  shallop ;  and,  painful  to  tell,  they  were  never  heard  of  more  ! 
Whether  they  got  to  Digg's  cape,  which  was  purposed,  and  massa- 
cred; or  whether  involved  in  inextricable  masses  of  driving  ice 
and  perished,  heaven  only  knows.  The  mutineers,  after  much 
peril  and  sufferings  of  hunger,  and  a  loss  of  more  than  half  their 
number,  reached  Ireland  September  6,  1611. 

None  of  the  name  of  Hudson  appeared  to  survive  and  to  enjoy, 
as  a  family  pre-eminence,  the  honours  of  this  famed  navigator, 
probably  because  he  may  have  left  no  male  issue.  One  of  his 
family  connection,  Wm.  Hudson,  who  settled  at  Philadelphia  at 
the  foundation  of  that  city,  was  a  distinguished  man ;  once  a 
clergyman  in  Barbadoes,  he  became  a  friend,  and  left  a  respect- 
able family,  now  extinct  in  its  male  issue. 

Another  exploration  was  instituted  by  the  West  India  Company 
in  sending  out,  in  1614,  two  ships  commanded  by  Capt.  Adrian 
Blok  and  Hendrick  Christiaanse.  The  former  arrived  first,  and 
his  ship  having  accidentally  biu:ned,  he  built  another  on  the  East 
River ;  a  first  demonstration  to  the  simple  natives  of  the  superior 
skill  of  the  Charistooni — iron  workers.  With  this  vessel  he  made 
his  examinations  along  that  river  to  Helle-gadt.  To  the  Sound 
he  gave  the  name  Groot  Bai — great  bay,  and  examined,  as  he 
proceeded,  the  places  along  its  shores.  At  the  far  end  he  met 
with  Schipper  Christiaanse,  and  both  vessels  soon  after  proceeded 
to  their  investigations  up  the  great  river,  the  Hudson ;  leaving 
behind  them  to  perpetuate  their  memory  Blok  Island  and  Chris- 
tiaanse Eylandt,  the  same  since  called  No  Man's  land  or  Martha's 
Vineyard.  They  proceeded  up  to  Castle  Island,  Albany,  and 
there  made  a  settlement. 

It  may  be  mentioned  in  conclusion,  as  to  the  nations  and  resi- 
dences of  the  Indians,  that  the  Mohiccans  (Mohicanni)  dwelt  on 
6  d2 


42  The  First  Colonists, 

the  eastern  side  of  the  Hudson,  from  the  Tappan  sea  up  to  its 
head.  The  Mohawks  (spelt  Maquas  and  Mackwaas)  held  all  the 
western  side,  from  the  head  waters  to  the  Kaatskill  mountains. 
The  Wabingi,  called  Wappingers  in  later  years  by  the  English, 
together  with  the  Sankikani,  occupied  from  thence  down  to  Am- 
boy  bay.  The  Mohawks  on  the  western  side,  were  in  general 
unfriendly  to  the  Mohiccans  on  the  other  side,  and  eventually 
became  their  conquerors. 

The  "  Racks''  so  called,  along  the  river,  were  Dutch  names  for 
Reaches.  Thus  Martelaers  rack  meant  the  Martyr's  reach  or 
struggling  place  ;  Lange  rack,  was  Long  reach ;  and  Klauver 
rack.  Clover  reach,  &c. 

It  might  perhaps  serve  to  show  the  former  peaceful  state  of 
the  Hudson  waters,  to  state  a  fact  recorded  by  Vanderdonck,  as 
a  fact  known  to  himself  at  the  time,  and  sufficiently  strange  to  us 
now,  that  in  the  spring  of  1647,  two  lohales  swam  up  the  river 
many  miles :  one  returned  and  stranded  about  10  or  12  miles 
from  the  sea-shore  ;  the  other  kept  on,  and  stranded  not  far  from 
Cahoe's  Falls,  at  what  is  since  called  Whale  Island,  opposite  the 
city  of  Troy.  The  oil  was  secured  by  the  inhabitants,  but  the 
flesh  long  tainted  the  air  of  the  country.  Kalm,  in  1749,  con- 
firmed the  above  in  saying  it  was  then  a  report  at  Albany 
that  a  whale  had  once  got  up  the  river  quite  to  the  town ;  he 
also  mentioned  that  porpoises  even  then  occasionally  got  up 
there. 


THE  FIRST  COLONISTS. 

«  First  in  the  race,  that  won  their  country's  fame." 

The  earliest  colonists  who  came  out  for  professed  purposes  of 
permanent  settlement,  were  those  brought  out  in  1623,  in  the  ship 
of  Capt.  Kornelis  Jacobse  Mey.  Soon  after,  two  ships  of  the 
West  India  Company  brought  out  as  professed  agriculturists,  the 
Waalons  from  the  river  Waal,  and  having  for  their  first  governor 
or  director,  Peter  Minuit.  They  appear  to  have  settled  in  1625 
upon  Long  Island,  at  a  bend  of  the  shore  at  Brooklyn,  called 
Wal-bocht,  a  word  importing  the  fVaaloo7i  bend :  a  place  since 
noted  for  being,  as  its  high  river  bank,  the  depository  of  eleven 
thousand  of  the  American  dead,  from  the  prison  ships  in  the 
time  of  the  war  of  the  revolution.  Jan  Joris  Rapaelje  appears  to 
have  been  their  chief  man ;  and  his  daughter  Sarah,  born  9th 
June,  1625,  and  afterwards  the  widow  Foley,  was  long  honoured 
as  "  the  jirst-horn  child ;"  and  for  that  cause  was  presented  a 
tract  of  land  by  the  governor,  in  consideration  of  that  distinction 
and  her  widowhood. 


The  First  Colonists.  43 

The  terms  of  encouragement  to  agriculturists  and  settlers  was 
great,  and  especially  to  those  who  should  go  out  to  the  "  Groot 
Rivier"  of  Hudson,  with  the  enterprise,  force,  and  capital  of 
Patroons;  a  name  denoting  something  baronial  and  lordly  in 
rank  and  means.  They  were  such  as  should  undertake  to  plant 
a  colony  of  fifty  souls,  upwards  of  fifteen  years  old  ;  taking  them 
out,  if  needful,  in  divisions  of  a  fourth  each  in  four  years.  To 
such  the  preference  was  given  in  absolute  property,  of  such  lands 
as  they  should  choose,  being  four  miles  along  the  river  and  as  far 
back  as  they  desired  ;  and  all  goods  which  they  should  want  at 
any  time  imported,  was  to  be  done  for  them  at  $lh  a  ton.  The 
passengers  were  to  have  been  transported  in  the  ships  of  the 
company,  paying  only  for  passage  and  provisions  six  stuyvers 
daily,  equal  to  but  \2h.  cents  per  day.  Only  think  what  an  in- 
considerable sum  to  allure  emigrants  to  settle  a  land  such  as  New 
York  is  now  known  to  be.  And  yet  but  very  few  so  took  up 
lands  as  virtual  lords  of  manors  !  All  other  individuals  going  out 
as  settlers,  were  free  to  take  up  as  much  land  "  as  they  should 
have  ability  and  property  to  improve  ;"  and  provided  also,  that 
"  they  should  satisfy  the  Indians  for  the  land  they  should  settle 
upon.^^  One  of  the  most  exceptionable  features  in  the  terms,  in 
our  sense  of  morality  now,  was,  that  the  company  would  "  use 
their  endeavour  to  supply  the  colonists  with  as  many  blacks  as 
they  conveniently  can."  To  this  cause  the  hateful  traffic  began  ; 
and  the  Indians  who  first  saw  them,  pronounced  them  a  race  of 
devils.  Killian  Van  Renselaer,  a  director  and  merchant  of  Am- 
sterdam, was  among  the  first-named  Patroons,  who  procured  his 
location  at  and  about  the  present  Albany,  to  which  lands  he  in 
1630  gave  the  name  of  Renselaerwyck.  The  Patroon  himself 
settled  on  the  first  large  island  below  the  present  Albany,  where 
he  laid  out  a  place  called  Renselaerburgh.  Those  who  can  now 
pass  the  place  in  the  steamboats  should  look  out  the  position,  and 
reflect  on  its  change  from  then  to  now  !  The  same  family,  now 
resident  in  Albany,  and  very  wealthy,  bear  now  the  name  of  "/Ae 
Patroon.^'  Michael  Pauuw,  another  director,  took  up  the  lands 
of  "'Hohocan  Hackingh,  lying  opposite  the  island  Manhates," 
New  York,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Pavonia;  but  as  he 
never  made  any  settlements,  his  lands  reverted. 

Although  we  are  accustomed,  after  the  early  declaration  of 
Vanderdonck,  to  regard  Hudson  as  the  first  visiter  at  Manhattan, 
it  is  nevertheless,  supposed  to  be  true,  that  one  of  Verrazzano's 
vessels  had  before  visited  Sandy  Hook,  as  early  as  1524,  being 
eighty-five  years  preceding  the  arrival  of  the  Half  Moon. 

The  first  trading  house  of  the  Dutch  being  surrounded  by  a 
palisade,  took  the  name  of  the  first  fort — this  was  in  1615.  Its 
site  was  the  place  now  known  as  Bunker's  Hotel,  on  Broadway. 
A  real  fort  was  erected  in  1623-4,  in  a  square  form,  on  the  then 
bank  of  the  North  River,  along  the  west  side  of  the  Trinity  church. 


44  The  First  Colonists. 

Governor's  Island,  so  called  because  it  was  always  regarded 
as  a  perquisite  attached  to  their  office,  was  originally  so  near  to 
Red  Hook,  main  land,  that  cattle  crossed  the  channel  to  and  fro 
at  low  water.  Gov.  Keift  had  a  plantation  on  the  island  which 
he  leased  for  150  lb.  of  tobacco  per  year.  His  farm  at  Paulus 
Hook  he  sold  to  Planck  for  £75. 

Fort  Amsterdam  was  finished  by  Van  T wilier,  on  the  then 
hluff,  in  1640.  The  church  within  the  fort  was  built  under 
Gov.  Keift,  in  1642-3,  and  its  first  minister  was  the  Rev'd  John 
Megapolensis.  He  published  a  short  description  of  the  country. 
He  says  that  strawberries  were  so  plenty  in  the  fields,  that  they 
were  accustomed  to  go  and  lie  down  among  them  to  eat  them, 
and  that  good  grapes  were  in  much  abundance.  The  Indians 
went  nearly  naked  in  summer,  and  wore  bear  and  other  skins  for 
clothing  in  winter. 

There  are  several  instances  of  the  Dutch  making  purchases  of 
lands  in-  given  places  from  the  Indians,  sufficient  to  show  that  it 
was  their  general  practice  to  make  terms  with  the  Indians,  as 
proper  proprietors  of  the  soil.     Staten  Island  was  so  purchased. 

The  Dutch  church,  in  Garden  street,  was  built  about  the  year 
1693.     The  middle  church  in  1729. 

The  Trinity  Church  was  built  in  1696.  The  Friends  in  the 
same  year  built  their  meeting-house  in  Crown  street,  since  Lib- 
erty street. 

Before  1700,  the  ordinary  transactions  of  the  country  were  paid 
in  produce — six  bushels  of  corn  was  the  price  for  killing  a  wolf. 
A  minister  was  paid  £60  a  year  in  wheat  or  corn, — even  decrees 
in  court,  were  sometimes  paid  in  the  same  way.  The  minister 
at  Albany  had  one  hundred  and  fifty  beavers. 

Gov.  Petrus  Stu3rvesant,  arrived  from  Amsterdam  the  27th  May, 
1647.  He  had  been  before  wounded  in  Curracoa,  and  lost  his 
leg,  and  in  lieu  of  it  had  a  wooden  one,  banded  with  silver  straps, 
called  his  silver  leg  !  He  married  when  here,  Judith  Bayard, 
one  of  the  Hugonot  emigrants. 

Doctor  Adrian  Vanderdonck,  in  his  account  of  New  Nether- 
lands, where  he  had  resided  fifteen  years,  published  in  1653, 
speaks  of  sundry  facts,  to  wit :  they  cultivated  vineyards  and  in- 
troduced grape  of  foreign  stock,  and  sent  out  vine-dressers  from 
Heidelberg— they  had  also  a  botanic  garden,  where  much  of  the 
wild  flowers  of  the  country  were  gathered.  They  also  tried 
canary  seed,  "  which  did  well."  The  Indian  hunting  season  is 
about  Christmas — deer  are  then  fattest.  The  woods  were  made 
open  and  clear  by  the  Indian  practice  of  burning  the  under  brush. 
The  Indians  constructed  long  narrow  wigwams,  to  contain  many 
families  in  the  same  structure  ;  the  roof  was  formed  of  wide  bark, 
one  hole  in  the  top  to  let  out  the  smoke.  Their  towns  or  castles 
were  stockaded  with  logs  and  palisades.  Their  general  remedy 
for  disease  was  fasting  or  sweating.     They  despised  falsehood^ 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  45 

but  fell  from  this  as  they  mixed  more  and  more  with  the  settlers. 
They  went  out  in  large  parties  for  beavers,  and  staid  out  from 
one  to  two  months,  bringing  home  generally  forty  to  eighty  skins 
a  man,  besides  other  skins.  They  used  bows  and  arrows  and 
clubs  and  large  shields. 

The  town  wall  from  river  to  river,  raised  as  a  defence  along 
Wall  street,  was  first  erected  of  stones  and  earth  by  Gov.  Stuy- 
vesant,  in  1653. 

The  daily  meeting  of  the  merchants  was  determined  by  the 
order  of  Gov.  Lovelace,  in  1699,  to  be  near  the  Bridge,  at  the 
foot  of  Broad '  street.  It  afterwards  became  the  locality  of  the 
Exchange. 

In  1682,  the  population  of  New  York  as  officially  returned, 
was  upwards  of  2000  souls,  besides  slaves,  and  207  houses. 

In  1686,  the  province  contained  twenty-four  villages,  in  six 
circuits,  the  militia  was  4000  and  the  inhabitants  20,000.  About 
the  same  timie,  slaves  were  brought  from  Barbadoes,  and  sold  for 
produce. 

The  first  case  on  record  in  the  Mayor's  Court,  in  1672,  is  in 
Dutch,  the  others  which  follow  are  all  in  English. 

The  word  ^'Eos'^  had  a  meaning  to  the  Dutch  of  New  York  a 
century  ago,  not  since  as  well  understood.  It  was  originally 
written  and  printed  Baas,  and  literally  means  Master — a  name, 
howbeit,  which  many  of  our  republican  labourers  feel  disposed  to 
reject,  although  they  like  well  enough  to  acknowledge  a  Bos. 

Staten  Island,  so  majestic  and  grand  in  its  elevation,  was  the 
favourite  spot  of  the  primitive  Dutch  settlers.  It  was  first  bought 
from  the  Indians  for  Michael  Pauw,  by  a  deed  on  record,  dated 
10  August,  1630.  The  Indians  again  sold  it  in  1638,  to  Heer 
Melyn,  and  afterwards,  strange  to  tell,  they  again  sold  it  to 
Baron  Van  Cappellen.  But  the  colony  of  Van  Cappellen  being 
assaulted  and  massacred  by  the  Raritan  Indians,  the  Island  was 
confirmed  to  Heer  Melyn. 


EARLY  INLAND  SETTLEMENTS. 

«  Bold  master  spirits — where  they  touch'd  they  gain'd 
Ascendance, — where  they  fix'd  their  foot,  they  reigned," 

For  numerous  years  after  the  first  settlement,  Albany  consti- 
tuted the  ultima  Thule — the  remotest  point  of  interior  civilization 
and  improvement.  Even  as  late  as  the  war  of  independence,  the 
present  flourishing  towns  of  Troy  and  Lansingburghwere  scarcely 
named.  Saratoga  Springs  and  Ballstown,  now  so  famed  and  fash- 
ionable, were  in  their  native  barrens. 


46  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

Kinderhook,  Esopus,  Rhinebeck,  were  among  the  earliest 
Dutch  settlements  along  the  banks  of  the  Hudson.  They  are 
mentioned  as  early  as  1651  by  Joost  Hartgers;  and  in  1656  by 
Vanderdonck.  Esopus  having  been  made  a  place  of  depot  for 
our  military  stores,  was  assaulted  in  1777  by  the  British  General 
Vaughan,  and  taken  and  burnt. 

Old  as  Kinderhook  was,  as  an  early  settlement,  yet  it  was  visited 
by  hostile  Indians,  in  comparatively  modern  times. 

In  the  year  1755,  as  some  half  dozen  of  the  inhabitants  were 
working  in  their  corn  field  at  that  place,  they  were  fired  upon  by 
as  many  Indians  ;  our  people  ran  to  their  arms,  whereby  two  of 
the  Indians  were  killed. 

Soon  after,  between  30  and  40  Indians  again  appeared  and 
were  pursued  by  Robert  Livingston  and  40  men.  At  Claverack, 
there  was  also  a  small  inroad  and  assault  of  Indians. 

As  late  as  the  year  1764  the  Indians  attacked  a  family  near 
Kinderhook,  assaulting  six  persons  in  the  field  when  hoeing 
corn.  They  had  their  guns  with  them,  and  used  some  of  them. 
One  Gardner  fought  bravely,  and  being  wounded,  was  scalped 
and  yet  survived  it  all ! 

Rhinebeck,  as  well  as  Strausburgh  nigh  it,  were  at  an  early 
period  much  occupied  by  Germans.  The  former  place,  in  1749, 
had  its  separate  church  and  German  pastor,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hartu- 
rig.  The  Germans  were  encouraged  to  settle  in  New  York  state 
in  the  time  of  Queen  Anne.  Several  got  dissatisfied  there  and 
moved  into  Pennsylvania,  under  some  encouragements  received 
from  Gov.  Sir  W.  Keith. 

Saratoga  springs,  are  in  what  was  the  Mohawk's  country. 
They  were  discovered  by  a  party  of  surveyors  in  1770,  while  the 
country  was  still  a  wilderness.  Our  troops  at  Saratoga  in  the 
revolutionary  war  used  them :  but  the  earliest  regular  notice  of 
them  was  in  a  communication  of  Dr.  Tanney  of  the  army,  who 
in  Sept.  1783,  writing  to  a  scientific  society  said,  "  I  think  they 
only  want  a  suitable  introduction  to  the  world,  and  some  conve- 
nient houses  for  boarders  and  lodging  patients,  to  render  them  of 
important  service  to  the  country.'' 

It  is  supposed  that  the  Indians  may  have  known  and  used  them 
before  the  whites. 

The  village  of  Saraghtoga  near  Albany,  was  announced  in  the 
Gazette  of  1745,  as  having  been  destroyed  by  Indians,  and  as 
many  as  ninety  persons  were  missing.  A  friendly  Indian  reported 
that  he  had  seen  as  many  as  sixty  of  these  prisoners  going  off  to 
Canada.  Upon  this  intelligence  troops  at  New  York  were  ordered 
oiF  for  Albany. 

Since  then  how  wonderfully  important  has  Saratoga  become  ! 
Once  a  deeply  sandy  place,  now,  macadamized  and  adorned  with 
spreading  elms.  Once  its  pine  lands  were  an  uncultivated  waste, 
now  they  have  learned  to  make  them  into  cultivated  and  profita- 


'  Early  Inland  Settlements.  47 

ble  farms.  Almost  every  year  some  new  fountain  is  discovered, 
and  all  superior  in  their  kind.  The  new  fountains  near  the  Pavi- 
lion, are  evidences  that  others  of  equal  excellence  will  hereafter 
be  discovered.  If  the  consecrated  springs  of  England,  though 
much  inferior,  had  their  saints  and  shrines  to  give  them  counte- 
nance to  exact  gifts  from  their  grateful  beneficiaries,  in  the  form 
of  pilgrims  and  devotees,  as  at  the  pool  of  St.  Nun,  the  holy  well 
of  St.  Wenefrede,  of  St.  George,  St.  ^han,St.  Cheyne,St.  John, 
&c.,  may  we  not  with  classic  and  mythological  remembrance 
invoke  Hygeia,  to  assign  to  every  spring  a  nymph,  or  a  minor 
deity  !  Whether  or  not,  we  shall  doubtless  see  Temples  in  some 
form,  erected  on  their  sites,  where  the  infirm  and  the  world  of 
fashionables,  will  crowd  to  ofier  their  tributes. 

In  the  time  of  the  summer  visits  to  Saratoga  and  Ballstown, 
steamboats  in  the  top  season  arrive  at  Albany,  surcharged  with 
gay  travellers — "  six  hundred  passengers  in  the  North  America" 
— "  450  in  the  Erie,"  &c. 

How  it  might  astonish  the  former  Dutch  burghers  to  arise 
again  and  see  such  wonders  as  steam  vessels  and  their  passengers 
at  their  wharves, — canals  of  300  miles  in  length,  railroads  to  the 
springs,  newspapers  too,  daily  ones,  every  day  at  their  tables  from 
all  the  cities  of  the  Union,  and  those  of  New  York  city  at  their 
tea-tables,  the  same  day  they  were  printed  !  All  these  wonders 
wrought  within  the  term  of  a  short  life  !  It  is  something  to  have 
lived  in  such  an  era,  it  even  beats  the  stirring  incidents  of  the 
Revolution,  which  happened  whilst  we  were  no7i  est. 

Lake  George,  &c. — This  little  lake  and  its  vicinity,  is  full  of 
historical  recollections  and  exciting  imagery  of  the  past.  Its 
original  name  of  Horicon,  being  the  most  poetical,  is  thus  apos- 
trophised by  poetry  itself,  to  wit : 

And  here  thou  art  sweet  Horicon,  the  same 
As  when  of  old  thy  silvery  bosom  bore 
Armies  in  bright  array,  in  taarch  of  fame, 
Of  conquest,  glory,  and  of  something  more — 
Of  Empire — aye : — and  long  did  barb'rous  war 
In  blood,  wheel  round  thee  his  destructive  car. 

Along  this  lake  are  now  the  quiet  remains  of  forts  and  defences 
— such  as  Fort  George  and  Fort  William  Henry.  There,  had  been 
the  gallant  Montcalm  with  his  besieging  army  compelling  a  sur- 
render which  eventuated  in  a  massacre  of  our  people,  by  the 
savage  Indians — on  this  lake.  General  Abercrombie  in  1758,  em- 
barked his  15,000  men  for  his  attack  upon  Ticonderoga.  In  later 
years,  our  gallant  Colonel  Allen  surprised  and  captured  the  same 
fortress. — Now,  all  the  forts  are  demolished ;  all  is  hushed  in  peace 
and  silence,  save  when  boat  parties  wake  the  echoes  which  strongly 
reverberate  along  these  waters,  and  among  the  numerous  islets  of 


46  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

the  narrow  lake.  How  few  now  survive  of  our  soldier  defenders, 
to  be  witnesses  of  the  present  pleasure  parties  of  travellers,  who 
now  contemplate  these  regions  as  only  formed  for  delight. 

But  we  could  still  tell  a  tale  of  terror  to  many  of  this  same  re- 
gion. 'Twas  only  in  the  past  year,  that  two  men  on  the  East 
side  of  the  Tongue  mountain,  killed  in  the  course  of  three  days, 
eleven  hundred  and  six  rattle-snakes,  found  among  the  rocks  and 
the  prevailing  solitudes. 

Some  Scotch  presbyterians  went  out  early  under  the  auspices 
of  the  Livingston  family.  At  the  first  settlement  of  Albany, 
Livingston  was  secretary  to  the  Dutch  government,  his  family 
being  at  the  same  time,  Brownists  in  Holland,  from  Scotland.  I 
have  seen  an  autograph  letter  of  his  mother  to  his  address,  written 
from  Amsterdam  when  in  the  eightieth  year  of  her  age,  and  pro- 
viding therein  for  his  receiving  out  fifty  of  that  people  at  a  time, 
as  his  working  men,  to  serve  seven  years  a-piece  for  only  food 
and  raiment ;  all  for  the  sake  of  freedom  of  conscience.  The 
Livingston  family  settled  near  Hudson  city ;  and  one  of  the  Liv- 
ingstons (Robert)  in  later  years  (1752)  took  up  300,000  acres  of 
forest  land,  extending  from  Esopus  to  the  Delaware  river,  and 
proposing  to  rent  them  out  forever  on  the  condition  of  fifty  bushels 
of  wheat  her  one  hundred  acres  yearly. 

Hudson  city  is  but  a  modern  affair,  having  been,  till  the  year 
1 784  cultivated  as  a  farm.  It  was  then  purchased  by  a  few  enter- 
prising persons  of  capital  from  the  eastward,  chiefly  for  the  pur- 
pose of  conducting  there  the  whale  fishery  to  the  Pacific  ocean. 
Such  was  its  rapid  progress,  that  in  two  years  there  were  as  many 
as  one  hundred  and  fifty  dwelling-houses  erected.  During  the 
snowy  winter  of  1786,  it  was  visited  daily,  it  was  said,  by  one- 
thousand  two  hundred  sleds,  bringing  in  and  taking  out  articles 
of  traffic.  It  is  deemed  at  the  head  of  tide  water  and  ship  navi- 
gation. 

Newburgh  existed  before  the  revolution ;  and  being  a  place 
beautifully  situated,  and  not  far  from  West  Point,  it  was  occasion- 
ally made  a  place  of  visit  and  relaxation  by  General  Wash- 
ington, and  other  superior  officers  serving  during  that  war  at 
that  post. 

The  Hasbrook  House,  at  Newburgh,  acquired  an  eminence  and 
just  fame  (though  but  of  one  story  high,)  as  having  been  the  hum- 
ble quarters  of  General  Washington.  Thoughlowin  roof,  itcovered 
ground  enough  to  contain  many  rooms.  There,  was  received  and 
entertained  by  the  General  and  his  lady,  many  distinguished  men 
and  officers  of  the  Revolution.  A  fine  engraving  has  been  made 
of  it  by  Weir,  with  all  its  adjacent  woodland  shade.  In  the  year 
1834, it  was  advertised  for  sale  "as  built  in  the  Dutch  style,  and 
being  the  ?7io,9^  ancient  anddurable  building  above  the  highlands," 
— also  as  having  been  "  said  by  General  Washington  and  his  offi- 
cers, to  surpass  any  other  situation  on  the  Hudson,  for  beauty  and 


Arrival  of  Hudson  at  Sandy  Hook,  1609,  p.  3. 


Hasbrook  House,  Washington's  QuartrrP,  p.  4S. 


.^ 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  49 

grandeur  of  prospect."     Do  any  of  the  picturesque  seekers  and 
travellers  know  it  now  ? 

Square  and  rough  hewn,  and  solid  in  the  mass, 
And  ancient,  beside  yon  rock-ribb'd  hills — 
There  let  me  reverent  tread,  for 
There  the  spirits  of  the  dead  are  still 
In  memory,  and  in  fame  and  name. 
Let  no  rash  hand,  attempt  its 
Desecration, — for  here  the  great  Patriot 
Once  had  trod — trod  by  him. 
Who  fought  to  make  us  free ! 

When  General  Washington  was  at  West  Point,  and  Newburgh, 
&c.,  in  1779,  he  wrote  a  facetious  letter  to  Dr.  Cochran,  the  Direc- 
tor General  of  the  Hospitals,  which  will  well  serve  to  show  the 
specimen  of  the  homely  fare  of  his  table,  and  serve  as  a  vestige 
of  the  Hasbrook  house  and  its  concomitants,  to  wit : 

"West  Point,  Aug.  16,  1779. 
Dear  Doctor, 

I  have  asked  Mrs.  Cochran  and  Mrs.  Livingston,  to  dine  with 
me  to-morrow  ;  but  ought  I  not  to  apprise  you  of  their  fare  ?  As 
I  hate  deception,  even  when  imagination  is  concerned,  I  will.     ^ 

It  is  needless  to  premise  that  my  table  is  large  enough  to  hold 
the  ladies — of  this  they  had  ocular  demonstration  yesterday.  To 
say  how  it  is  usually  covered,  is  rather  more  essential,  and  this 
shall  be  the  purport  of  my  letter. 

Since  my  arrival  at  this  happy  spot,  we  have  had  a  ham, 
sometimes  a  shoulder  of  bacon  to  grace  the  head  of  the  table.  A 
piece  of  roast  beef  adorns  the  foot,  and  a  small  dish  of  green  beans 
— almost  imperceptible,  decorates  the  centre.  When  the  cook  has 
a  mind  to  cut  a  figure ;  and  this  I  presume  he  will  attempt  to- 
morrow, we  have  two  beef-steak  pies  or  dishes  of  crabs  in  addition, 
one  ou'each  side  of  the  centre  dish,  dividing  the  space  and  reduc- 
ing the  distance  between  dish  and  dish,  to  about  six  feet,  which 
without  them,  would  be  nearly  twelve  apart.  Of  late,  he  has 
had  the  surprising  luck  to  discover  that  apples  will  make  pies  ; 
and  it  is  a  question  if,  amidst  the  violence  of  his  ejfforts,  we  do 
not  get  one  of  apples,  instead  of  having  both  of  beef. 

If  the  ladies  can  put  up  with  such  entertainment,  and  submit 
to  partake  of  it  on  plates,  once  tin,  but  now  iron—not  become  so, 
by  the  labour  of  scouring,  I  shall  be  happy  to  see  them. 

Dear  sir,  yours, 

George  Washington." 

Such  a  letter  is  a  choice  relic  of  the  days  of  self-denial,  self- 
devotion  and  peril,  and  presents  us  with  a  lively  picture  of  the 
Hero  and  his  domestic  state.   But  above  all,  it  is  almost  a  solitary 
7  E 


$0  Early  Inland  Settlements, 

proof  of  his  power  to  be  playful  and  merry,  for  the  adaptation  of 
female  society. 

What  a  pity  if  is,  that  we  have  not  also  a  description  from  one 
or  both  of  the  ladies  of  that  "  feast  of  reason  and  flow  of  soul," 
as  it  really  occurred,  at  such  an  eventful  crisis.  What  a  fine 
subject  for  a  chapter,  from  a  female  witness  and  observer  is  thus 
lost! 

Strange,  that  so  many  should  have  had  chances  to  see  such 
peculiar  things,  and  yet  never  have  had  a  thought  of  setting 
them  down  upon  paper, — but  allow  them  quietly  to  die  with 
themselves  !  But  so  goes  the  world  !  "  What  is  remembered  dies, 
what  is  written  lives ;"  and  therefore,  so  far,  this  record  now. 

The  Mohawk  river,  extending  far  westward  through  a  narrow 
and  long  valley  of  fruitful  soil,  presented  the  earliest  allurement 
for  agricultural  purposes  inland ;  and  yet  it  was  not  until  after 
the  war  of  independence  that  it  began  to  be  sought  after  by  white 
men.  Filled  as  it  now  is  with  a  prosperous  and  wealthy  popula- 
tion ;  planted  with  numerous  thriving  villages,  traced  along  its 
margin  with  the  recent  grand  canal,  and  made  the  line  of  the 
grand  tour  to  Niagara  by  numerous  passengers  from  the  opulent 
sea-board  cities ;  yet  it  was  not  far  beyond  the  period  of  that  war, 
when  it  was  still  the  beaver  country  of  the  aborigines  or  their 
wigwam  locations ;  and  the  general  region  of  country,  their  hunt- 
ing ground,  through  which  ranged  bears,  foxes,  wolves,  deer,  and 
other  game ;  the  Indians  themselves  calling  the  lands  Couxsa- 
chraga — the  dismal  wilderness. 

Men  are  still  alive  while  we  write  this  (in  1830,)  who  in  the 
time  of  the  revolutionary  war,  were  in  the  defence  of  several  of 
its  military  redoubts  as  frontier  posts.  Mr.  Parrish,  Indian  agent, 
now  resident  at  Canandaigua,  was  with  a  predatory  party  of  In- 
dians as  a  prisoner  when  they  came  into  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  present  town  of  Herkimer,  only  eighty  miles  westward  of 
Albany.  Col.  Fry  of  Conojohari,  above  ninety  years  of  age,  still 
alive,  was  commissary  for  these  outposts  in  the  "  old  French 
war."  In  his  vicinity^  at  the  town  of  Mohawk,  but  thirty-six 
miles  west  of  Albany,  at  the  junction  of  the  Schoharie  creek  with 
the  river  Mehawk,  is  the  old  Mohawk  town ;  and  their  old  church, 
still  there,  is  the  same  built  as  a  missionary  station  in  the  reign  of 
Queen  Anne,  having  Fort  Hunter  to  cover  and  defend  it  from 
predatory  enemies.  At  this  very  place  the  Mohawks  were  actu- 
ally dwelling  as  a  nation  until  the  year  1780. 

Not  far  from  the  "  Little  Falls,"  now  so  romantic  and  picturesque 
by  reason  of  its  rocky  rapids  and  the  expensive  constructions  for 
the  canal  along  its  margin,  once  stood  the  advance  post  of  Fort 
Herkimer.  An  old  church  near  it,  by  lock  No.  28,  is  still  standing, 
which  was  used  as  a  place  of  defence  against  an  Indian  assault, 
even  in  the  time  of  the  Revolution.  From  the  village  of  Herki- 
mer up  to  Canada  creek,  a  distance  of  fourteen  miles,  are  the  very 


Early  Inland  Settlements,  51 

lands,  embracing  now  the  present  fashionable  resort  and  elegant 
place  of  entertainment,  called  "  the  Trenton  Falls,"  which  were 
once  given  by  King  Hendricks,  our  good  ally,  to  Gen.  Sir  Wm. 
Johnson,  who  had  taken  his  wife  from  the  Indian  race.  King 
Hendricks  himself  lived  at  "  Indian  Castle"  on  the  Mohawk 
river,  sixty-six  miles  from  Albany.  As  late  as  the  revolution,  a 
son  of  Sir  Wm.  Johnson,  coming  from  Canada,  made  a  hostile 
incursion  with  his  Indians  through  all  these  lands,  once  his 
father's ! 

At  the  present  flourishing  city  of  Utica,  only  ninety-five  miles 
west  of  Albany,  once  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schuyler,  the  settlement 
is  so  recent  that  in  1794  it  had  but  two  houses  ;  and  in  1785  the 
whole  region  of  country  had  but  two  families,  dwelling  in  log 
houses  as  advance  pioneers :  says  Judge  Hugh  White,  after  whom 
Whitestown  is  since  named,  and  Moses  Foot.  From  Utica  to 
Canandaigua, they  travelled  for  several  years  by  "blazed  paths;" 
that  is,  by  chipping  pieces  out  of  trees,  to  show  the  traveller  his 
way  through  boundless  forests. 

Dr.  Elezier  Mosely,  who  died  in  1833,  at  the  age  of  seventy- 
three,  was  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  of  Whitestown,  having  come 
there  soon  after  Judge  White  had  begun  the  settlement.  He  had 
been  the  first  appointed  Postmaster  at  Schenectady,  and  wishing 
to  have  a  post  from  their  new  place,  it  would  not  be  granted  un- 
less the  inhabitants  themselves  would  bear  the  expense.  This 
was  agreed  to,  and  Judge  Piatt,  Thomas  R.  Gold  and  others  of 
the  first  settlers,  took  it  under  contract  for  six  years ;  but  at  the 
end  of  three  or  four  years,  so  much  had  the  postage  increased 
beyond  government  expectation,  that  it  bought  back  the  contract, 
by  paying  a  considerable  sum  for  the  indulgence  ! 

At  first,  the  western  mail  was  carried  from  Albany  once  a  week, 
in  a  valise  on  the  shoulders  of  a  footman, — the  same  individual 
to  whom  the  same  route  of  country  has  since  been  so  much 
indebted  for  Stage  conveyances  ! 

Such  facts  sufficiently  evince  the  rapid  progress  of  settlements ! 

When  Utica  first  began  its  career,  John  Jacob  Astor,  and  Peter 
Smith,  travelled  the  ground  from  Schenectady  to  Utica,  purchasing 
furs  at  the  Indian  settlements  on  the  route.  The  Indians  aided 
them  in  carrying  them  back  to  Schenectady.  They  opened  a 
store  in  New  York  city  for  their  sale — and  when  their  stock  was 
exhausted,  they  again  penetrated  the  lonely  forests  of  the  frontiers 
and  replenished  their  store.  Astor  continued  his  business  many 
years,  but  Smith  commenced  the  purchase  of  land,  and  died  at 
Schenectady  very  rich. 

Summers  went  and  came,  and  wave  after  wave  of  emigration, 
rolled  up  the  long  defile  of  the  Mohawk.  Mark  the  change — 
Judge  Smith  died  leaving  millions  of  acres  to  his  heirs — but  lived 
long  enough,  to  travel  from  Schenectady  to  Utica  in  four  hours. 
And  to-day,  when  the  smi's  evening  rays  shall  hide  from  the  un- 


8^  Early  Inland  Setllements. 

dimmed  eye  of  John  Jacob  Astor,  behind  the  blue  hills  of  Jersey, 
its  vertical  beams  will  be  falling  on  his  fur  traders  of  our  new 
ultima  thule,  the  mouth  of  the  Oregon.  Bishop  Berkely  never 
dreamed  of  such  changes,  when  he  penned  the  line, — 

"  Westward  the  star  of  empire  takes  its  way." 

The  name  of  the  late  Judge  Peter  Smith, — father  of  the  present 
Gerritt  Smith,  Esq.,  of  Peterboro',  stands  in  an  interesting  con- 
nexion with  the  first  white  settlement  in  central  New  York,  and 
especially  with  the  small  beginnings  of  the  city  of  Utica. 

In  the  year  1787,  Judge  Smith,  not  yet  twenty  years  of  age, 
left  his  clerkship  in  the  store  of  Abraham  Herring,  an  importing 
merchant  in  the  city  of  New  York,  to  seek  his  fortune,  inland. 
He  went  to  Fall  Hill,  near  the  village  of  Little  Falls,  and  opened 
store.  The  following  year,  he  built  a  log  store  at  Fort  Schuyler, 
(now  Utica.)  The  ground  for  it,  which  is  now  a  part  of  that  oc- 
cupied by  the  celebrated  "Bagg's  Tavern,"  he  leased  of  the  widow 
Daymuth,  at  the  annual  rent  of  a  pound  of  bohea  tea  I  There 
were  at  that  time,  three  other  log,  but  no  frame  buildings,  at  Fort 
Schuyler.  Mr.  John  Post  spent  six  weeks  there  the  previous 
year,  in  selling  goods  to  the  Indians :  but  Judge  Smith  was  before 
him  and  all  others,  in  establishing  a  store  at  Fort  Schuyler. 

Judge  Smith  frequently  referred  to  "the  Kanes,"  who  had 
stores  at  Canojoharie  and  Whitestown,  as  his  most  formidable 
rivals  for  the  trade  with  the  Dutchmen  and  Indians.  The  late 
Elisha  Kane  of  Philadelphia,  was  one  of  "  the  Kanes."  Among 
the  stories  of  olden  time,  with  which  he  was  wont  to  make  him- 
self and  friends  merry,  was  that  of  Judge  Smith's  inviting  him  to 
dine  with  him  on  a  hen  which  he  was  fattening  for  the  occasion. 
On  arriving  at  Utica,  he  found  the  lonely  hen,  tied  by  the  leg, 
and  still  under  the  fattening  process. 

It  is  worthy  of  mention,  that  in  the  early  times  of  which  we 
are  speaking,  while  Mr.  Astor  was  associated  with  his  friend 
Peter  Smith,  in  the  purchase  of  furs  from  the  Indians,  and  also  in 
the  purchase  of  various  tracts  of  land  that  Mr.  Astor  cherishes 
lively  and  pleasant  reminiscences  of  their  visit  to  Oneida  Castle, 
and  other  groups  of  Indian  habitations  in  its  vicinity.  It  is  hardly 
probable,  that  it  was  amongst  the  dreams  of  the  business-efforts 
of  these  young  gentlemen,  that  one  of  them  should  acquire  one 
of  the  largest  estates,  and  the  other  the  very  largest  estate,  ever 
acquired  in  this  country. 

Judge  Smith  frankly  confessed,  that  he  was  indebted  to  the 
Oneida  Indians  for  a  large  share  of  his  wealth.  He  spoke  their 
language  fluently,  and  had  great  influence  with  them.  The 
steady  friendship  for  him  of  their  distinguished  chief,  Skenandon, 
who  died,  very  aged,  in  1815,  induced  the  Judge  to  name  his 
eldest  son,  Skenandon; — a  circumstance  which  added  to  the 
family  influence  with  those  warm-hearted  sons  of  the  forest. 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  53 

The  good  Abraham  Van  Eps,  of  Vernon,  is  perhaps,  the  only- 
survivor  of  the  conspicuous  gentleman,  who,  in  the  times  which 
we  are  contemplating,  became  well  acquainted  with  the  Oneidas, 
and  acquired  the  knowledge  of  their  language. 

The  worthy  Judge  Dean,  of  Westmoreland,  was  another  of 
those  who  were  ingratiated  with  those  Indians ;  and  when  my 
kinsman,  the  late  Dr.  Azel  Backus,  President  of  Hamilton  Col- 
lege, preached  the  funeral  sermon  of  Skenandon,  Judge  Dean, 
acted  as  the  interpreter  of  the  discourse,  to  the  assembled  Indians. 

At  Fort  Stanwix,  called  also  New  Fort  Schuyler,  still  seen  in  its 
elevated  embankments, — on  the  site  where  now  the  town  of 
Rome  is  flourishing,  at  but  a  few  miles  beyond  Utica,  was  once 
sustained  a  most  deadly  and  protracted  conflict  with  Indians,  by 
the  late  aged  Col.  Marius  Willet,  of  New  York  city. 

Even  until  now,  the  Oneida  Indians  themselves,  a  little  beyond 
Utica,  are  settled  in  their  oAvn  town,  the  "  Oneida  Castle  ;"  dwell- 
ing in  their  own  houses,  and  cultivating  their  own  lands ;  occa- 
sionally saluting  the  travelling  tourists  passing  the  place  on  the 
turnpike  road,  and  sending  out  their  racing  children  to  hold  up 
hands  for  a  few  pennies.  The  Onondagoes  were  settled  only  20 
miles  westward  of  them ;  and  it  was  only  as  late  as  the  year 
1779,  that  Gen.  Clinton  went  out  with  a  regiment  from  Albany 
against  them,  surprised  their  town,  killing  fourteen,  and  bringing 
off  thirty-three  prisoners. 

As  we  leave  Utica,  we  enter  upon  the  "  New  York  military 
lands,"  containing  28  townships,  severally  ten  miles  square  ;  "the 
proud  and  splendid  monument  of  the  gratitude  of  New  York  to 
her  revolutionary  heroes  ;  giving  to  each  of  her  soldiers  five-hun- 
dred and  fifty  acres  of  lands,  now  so  valuable.''  The  very  gift 
of  such  lands,  since  the  revolution,  for  services  then  performed,  is 
itself  the  evidence  of  the  recent  cultivation  of  all  those  districts, 
now  so  essentially  adding  to  the  aggrandisement  of  this  great 
state.  Had  the  poor  soldiers  been  individually  benefited  by  this 
generosity,  and  their  descendants  have  found  an  easy  home  on 
the  soil,  the  reflection  would  be  much  more  grateful ;  but  rapa- 
cious speculators,  in  most  instances,  were  the  beneficiaries  ! 

Those  military  lands  extended  as  far  west  as  the  Seneca  lake, 
at  which  place  begins  the  eastern  boundary  of  that  great  purchase 
of  the  celebrated  pioneer,  Oliver  Phelps,  who  in  1787  purchased 
the  immense  and  unexplored  wilds  of  the  west,  from  the  line  of 
that  lake  to  the  west  boundary  of  the  state,  comprising  a  mass 
of  six  millions  of  acres,  for  the  inconsiderable  sum,  as  we  now 
think  it,  of  one  million  of  dollars.  To  this  Cecrops,  this  primary 
adventurer,  the  people  of  the  west  owe  a  lasting  monument  of 
gratitude  and  praise,  for  his  successful  efforts  in  opening  to  them 
and  their  children,  their  happy  Canaan. 

In  the  year  1788,  0.  Phelps  first  penetrated  the  wilderness, 
making  his  departure  from  Plerkimer,  the  then  most  advanced 

E  2 


54  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

settlement.  Going  thence,  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles,  through 
wilds  and  Indian  hunting  grounds,  to  an  Indian  settlement,  the 
present  Canandaigua,  a  name  then  importing  chosen  place,  where 
he  held  a  treaty  with  the  Six  Nations,  and  purchasing  from  them, 
their  grant  to  the  same,  as  far  as  to  the  Genessee  river.  In  the 
next  year  he  opened  his  land  office  in  that  town,  the  first  in 
America,  for  the  sale  of  forest  lands  to  settlers,  and  giving  a  model, 
since  adopted,  for  selling  all  new  lands  in  the  United  States,  by 
"townships  and  ranges."  In  1790  Phelps  sold  out  1:?  millions 
of  his  grant,  to  Robert  Morris,  the  celebrated  financier,  for  only 
Sd.an  acre  ;  and  he  again  sold  it  to  Sir  W.  Pulteney,  whose  land 
office  is  now  opened  at  Geneva  and  Bath.  In  1796  Robert  Mor- 
ris made  a  further  purchase  of  about  two  thirds  of  the  western 
part,  a  part  of  which  he  sold  out  to  the  "  Holland  Land  Com- 
pany," which  company  in  1801  opened  their  land  office  at  Batavia. 
Canandaigua  and  Geneva,  now  such  elegant  towns,  so  dehght- 
fuUy  placed  by  their  several  picturesque  lakes,  had  all  their  first 
houses  constructed  of  logs.  But  wild  as  the  country  was,  it  was 
all  traversed  in  the  summer  of  1792-3,  by  the  present  Philip,  king 
of  France,  and  his  two  brothers,  all  on  horseback,  and  making 
their  rest  for  a  short  time  at  Canandaigua,  at  the  house  of  Thomas 
Morris.  Finally,  such  was  the  early  history  of  a  woody  waste  of 
country,  so  little  valued  then,  and  now  so  populous  and  produc- 
tive. Through  such  regions,  original  settlers  made  their  way, 
with  families,  cattle,  provisions,  wagons,  and  carts ;  crossing 
waters  without  bridges ;  sleeping  and  eating  in  forests ;  and, 
finally,  dwelling  without  shelter,  until  they  could  build  a  log  house 
and  home.  The  obstacles,  and  hazards  and  perils,  which  beset  a 
pioneer  family,  going  through  a  wilderness  of  hundreds  of  miles  ; 
their  constructing  of  rafts  and  canoes,  at  water  courses ;  their 
swimming  of  horses,  oxen,  sheep,  hogs,  &c. ;  their  occasional  mis- 
haps and  losses  ;  their  hopes  and  fears  ;  altogether,  might  form  an 
eventful  tale  of  truth.  Such  a  tale  has  been  well  told  of  Laurie 
Todd,  (G.  Thorburn  of  New  York)  in  his  "  Settlers" — showing 
the  operations  of  the  Pioneers,  at  Genessee. 

In  the  very  midst  of  those  great  purchases  of  Phelps,  and  where 
his  earliest  efforts  were  concentred,  is  now  the  great  and  wonder- 
fully prosperous  town  of  Rochester,  filled  with  wealth,  and 
luxury  and  elegance  :  having  a  population  in  1827  of  eight  thou- 
sand persons,  and  not  one  adult  a  native  of  the  place  /  for  then 
the  oldest  person  living,  born  in  the  place,  was  not  seventeen 
years  of  age !  The  site  was  originally  given  to  0.  Phelps  by 
the  Indians,  as  a  mill  seat,  in  allusion  to  which  they  called  him 
Kauskonchicos, "  waterfall."  The  very  territory  in  which  it  was 
situated,  was  but  forty  years  ago  the  hunting  ground  of  such  rem- 
nants of  the  Six  Nations  as  survived  the  chastisement  of  Gen. 
Sullivan  ;  and  many  a  veteran  warrior  is  still  alive,  on  the  neigh- 
bouring reservations  of  Canawagus,  Tonewanda,  and  Tuscarora, 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  55 

&c.,  to  recount  to  their  surviving  sons  the  exploits  of  his  meridian 
vigour,  when  not  a  white  man's  axe  had  been  lifted  in  all  their 
forests !  In  the  time  of  the  revolution,  the  Six  Nations  were  in 
alliance  with  Great  Britain,  and  in  hostility  with  us  ;  but  in  1779 
they  were  entirely  defeated,  and  their  towns  destroyed. 

Rochester,  so  remarkable  in  its  recent  creation,  and  in  its  rapid 
improvement,  is  already  a  city.  Its  water  power,  so  famous,  is 
capable  of  an  exertion  to  the  value  of  ten  millions  of  dollars 
annually.  It  already  (in  1835)  has  twenty-one  flour  mills,  with 
ninety-five  runs  of  stone,  capable  of  making  five  thousand  bar- 
rels of  flour  a  day ;  thus  consuming  the  incredible  quantity  of 
twenty-thousand  bushels  of  wheat.  Besides  all  this,  it  has  many 
large  establishments,  working  by  water  power  in  manufactories. 
It  has  one  very  large  manufactory  for  woolen  carpets,  one  for 
rifles,  one  for  edge  tools.  This  place,  published  the  first  daily 
paper  west  of  Albany,  now  it  prints  two  ;  and  has  besides,  six 
weekly  prints.  The  revenue  of  its  post-office,  and  canal  collec- 
tion office,  is  now  greater  than  any  place  west  of  Albany. 

Buffalo  too,  now  a  second  time  a  city,  and  aspiring  to  be  the 
*  New  York  of  the  lake,'  was  only  a  frontier  fort,  at  which  were 
assembled  in  1796,  for  the  last  time,  in  treaty,  with  one  thousand 
Indians,  the  last  remains  of  the  once  mighty  Six  Nations.  There, 
they  then  relinquished  to  us  their  feeble  claims  to  their  once  vast 
domains  ! 

Can  we  contemplate  such  wonderful  transitions,  in  so  short  a 
term  of  years,  and  not  exclaim  with  amazement,  "  behold,  what 
a  land  of  successful  change  we  possess!"  All  these  changes, 
wrought,  within  the  lives  of  numerous  patriarchal  pioneers,  still 
alive,  who  live  to  see  turnpikes  and  canals  traversing  the  same 
lands  where  they,  for  several  years,  had  only  "blazed  paths;"  and 
comfortable  or  splendid  mansions  replacing,  throughout  all  the 
country,  the  former  log  houses,  with  their  wooden  chimnies,  and 
their  bark  or  stave  roofs  !  The  same  lands  have,  in  the  hands  of 
the  sons  of  toil,  been  made  to  rise  to  incalculable  value;  and  all 
this,  effected  in  a  term  so  short,  that  the  burnt  stumps  of  the 
"cleared  lands,"  peeping  from  among  the  luxuriant  fields  of  grain, 
like  black  bears,  are  still  every  where  visible  along  the  public 
highways. 

Those  who  may  be  favoured  to  travel  through  all  these  west- 
ern lands,  on  the  route  of-  the  "  grand  tour"  to  Niagara ;  who 
see  now  good  turnpike  roads,  first  rate  stages  and  extras,  and 
splendid  hotels,  wherever  they  go  ;  must  bear  in  mind,  that  all 
these  are  the  erections  of  only  a  few  years :  that  it  is  only  since 
the  peace  with  Great,  Britain  of  1816,  that  such  accommodations 
for  travellers  were  created ;  that  the  roads,  in  that  desperate 
"  border  war,"  were  then  terribly  rude  and  toilsome,  filled  m  nu- 
merous places  with  "  cord  du  roy"  annoyances  of  logs.  Niagara, 
now  so  splendid,  was  still  "  old  fort  Schlosser  :"  and  the  single 


56  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

house  of  entertainment,  was  a  log  tavern,  where  travellers  took 
every  thing  as  rough  as  the  rude  scenery  of  the  Niagara  itself. 
Let  the  traveller  contemplate  too  the  splendid  enterprise  of  the 
Grand  Canal,  stretching  through  a  former  woody  waste  of  360 
miles  ;  see  on  its  bosom  the  numerous  vehicles  gliding  through 
the  surrounding  forest  foliage,  bearing  and  scattering  riches  and 
plenty,  to  every  village  and  hamlet  along  its  shores  ;  then  reflect, 
on  the  active  commerce,  now  traversing  every  lake  and  inland 
sea,  where  was  lately  loneliness  and  solemn  stillness  :  the  heart 
must  exult  in  the  contemplation,  it  must  apostrophise  our  sires, 
and  say, 

"  Ye  who  toil'd 

Through  successive  years,  to  build  us  up 

A  prosperous  plan,  behold  at  once 

The  wonder  done ! 

Here  cities  rise  amid  th'  illumin'd  waste, 

O'er  joyless  deserts  smiles  the  rural  reign; — 

Far  distant  flood  to  flood  is  social  joined. 

And  navies  ride  on  seas  that  never  foam'd 

With  darinsT  keel  before !" 


We  proceed  now  to  give,  in  specific  detail,  our  several  historical 
notices  of  the  rise  and  progress  of  the  earliest  inland  settlements, 
westward  of  Schenectady — namely: 

Johnstown,  Schoharie,  Cherry  Valley,  German  Flats,  Her- 
kimer, and  Fort  Schuyler, 

JOHNSTOWN,    AND    SIR    WM.    JOHNSON    AND    FAMILY. 

This  place,  near  the  Mohawk,  was  chosen  as  the  home  and 
settlement  of  Sir  Wm.  Johnson,  created  a  baronet,  with  a  gift  of 
^5,000  sterling,  in  consideration  of  his  usefulness  in  bringing  the 
last  French  war  to  a  successful  termination. 

Here  he  built  himself  a  beautiful  residence,  called  Johnson  Hall, 
where  he  lived  many  years,  surrounded  by  the  Mohawks,  who 
regarded  him  with  veneration  and  esteem,  and  always  depending 
upon  him  for  advice  and  counsel.  Col.  Guy  Johnson  had  also  a 
separate  mansion,  where  both  lived,  essentially  in  the  rank  and 
abundance  of  noblemen. 

Sir  Wm.  Johnson  was  born  in  Ireland,  and  came  to  the  Mohawk 
in  1734,  in  consequence  of  the  call  of  his  uncle,  Admiral  Warren, 
then  residing  in  New  York,  and  who  from  marrying  an  American 
lady,  had  become  possessed  of  a  large  estate,  on  or  near  that 
river,  called  Warren's  Bush.  While  settled  here,  he  made  it  his 
business  to  become  acquainted  with,  and  to  conciliate  the  regard, 
of  the  Indians  :  he  acquired  their  language,  carried  on  an  exten- 
sive trade  with  them,  was  made  General  Superintendent  of 
Indian  affairs,  married  an  Indian  girl,  the  sister  of  Brant,  often 
wore  the  Indian  dress,  and  frequently  entertained  the  Indians.  He 
had  two  daughters,  who  were  educated  by  a  white  lady,  a  resi- 
dent in  his  house.     One  of  these  was  married  to  Col.  Guy  John- 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  57 

sou,  the  other  to  Col.  Claus.  His  only  son  became  afterwards  Sir 
John  Johnson  ;  and  both  he,  and  Col.  Guy  Johnson,  joined  the 
British,  in  the  war  against  us,  in  the  Revolution,  and  did  us  much 
harm,  even  by  invading  and  devastating  the  very  country,  where 
they  once  had  many  friends  and  neighbours  along  the  Mohawk. 
They  burned  upwards  of  twenty  houses  belonging  to  the  whigs ! 
Such  is  the  estrangement  of  war,  and  especially,  as  in  their  cases, 
when  assisted  by  savage  Indians  ! 

Sir  William  died  just  before  the  Revolution  began,  but  not 
until  he  was  pained  to  see  and  hear  of  its  approach,  to  wit,  in 
July  1774,  in  the  fifty-ninth  year  of  his  age.  He  dred  suddenly, 
and  was  buried  under  the  old  stone  church  at  Johnstown ;  but  in 
1806,  his  bones  were  redeposited.  In  his  coffin,  was  found  the 
ball,  with  which  he  was  wounded,  in  his  successful  conflict  with 
Baron  Dreskaw,  in  1757,  at  Lake  George. 

Many  traditionary  accounts,  are  still  given  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, of  the  rustic  sports  encouraged  by  Sir  William,  and  of  the 
influence  which  he  exerted  over  the  Indians  and  white  inhabitants. 
Among  others,  it  is  related,  that  he  showed  his  ingenuity  and  tact, 
with  the  celebrated  old  king  Hendrick,  who,  from  a  desire  to  pos- 
sess a  military  suit,  had  told  Sir  WilUam,  that  he  had  dreamed 
that  he  had  been  given  such  a  suit,  by  him — the  suit  was  therefore 
given.  Sometime  after.  Sir  William  told  to  the  old  king,  in  turn, 
his  dream,  which  was,  that  he  had  given  him  a  tract  of  land,  and 
describing  its  position :  the  same  in  the  county  of  Herkimer, 
extending  from  the  East  to  West  Canada  Creek,  being  about 
twelve  miles  square.  The  old  king  said  he  must  have  it,  but 
also  adding,  significantly,  *'  you  must  not  dream  again  !"  The 
title  was  confirmed  by  the  king  of  England,  and  in  a  double 
sense,  was  called  the  "  Royal  Grant !"  Afterwards,  these,  and 
all  the  possessions  of  the  Johnson  family,  were  confiscated  by  the 
American  Congress,  because  of  their  tory  adherence,  and  the  num- 
ber of  royalists  whom  they  won  to  their  interest  and  action  in 
the  revolutionary  struggle.  They  were,  however,  suitably  re- 
warded and  honoured  by  the  British  government. 

When  the  Revolutionary  war  began.  Col.  John  Johnson,  under 
pretext  of  keeping  himself  and  his  Indian  interests  from  violence 
from  the  whigs,  began  to  arm  his  tenants  and  dependants,  to 
erect  defences  around  Johnson  Hall,  and  when  he  was  urged  by 
the  committees  of  vigilance  to  desist,  and  was  required  by  Congress 
to  say  explicitly  whether  he  would  not  allow  the  enrollment  and 
discipline  of  the  militia,  in  his  district,  he  coolly  answered,  that 
they  might  take  all  who  would  serve ;  thus  intimating,  that  he 
sufficiently  understood  their  attachment  to  him  and  his  family 
interests.  Not  long  after,  Sir  John,  was  taken  for  the  public  secu- 
rity, to  Albany,  and  held  as  a  prisoner,  under  his  parole.  This, 
he  however  broke,  and  made  his  escape,  with  a  large  number  of 
his  tenants,  to  Montreal. 
8 


58  Early  Inland  Settlements, 

In  August  1781,  Major  Ross,  and  Walter  Butler,  came  fronn 
Canada,  by  the  way  of  Sacondaga,  to  Johnstown,  with  five  hun- 
dred men,  one  hundred  and  thirty  of  whom  were  Indians.  To 
encounter  these.  Col.  Willet  moved  from  his  command  at  Fort 
Plain,  with  about  three  hundred  levies,  and  sending  Col.  Harper, 
with  a  detachment  of  one  hundred  men,  to  gain  their  rear.  At  a 
short  distance  above  Johnson  Hall,  Col.  Willet  encountered  Ross, 
with  all  his  force.  Willet's  men,  at  first  retreated,  but  were  stop- 
ped by  him  at  the  village,  where  he  was  joined  by  two  hundred 
militia,  just  arrived.  Harper  now  opened  his  fire  on  the  rear,  and 
the  attack  being  renewed  by  Col.  Willet,  the  enemy  were  finally 
beaten,  with  the  loss  of  seventeen  of  their  force  killed ;  the  Ameri- 
cans losing  thirteen  men. 

Major  Ross  retreated  up  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  march- 
ing all  night  after  the  battle.  He  was  pursued  by  Col.  Willet,  but 
not  overtaken.  The  region  over  which  Ross  retreated,  after  he 
had  passed  the  settlements,  lies  twenty  or  thirty  miles  north  of 
Fort  Schuyler  (now  Utica),  and  at  that  time  was  uncultivated  and 
desolate.  His  army  therefore  suffered  much  from  hunger.  In 
this  retreat  Walter  Butler  was  killed,  at  West  Canada  creek,  at 
the  place  since  called  Butler  ford,  by  one  of  a  party  of  pursuing 
Oneida  Indians,  who  also  succeeded,  after  tomahawking  him,  to 
bring  away  his  scalp.  This  Butler,  was  of  a  very  savage  and  cruel 
temper,  far  more  so  than  his  father.  Col.  John  Butler,  who  as  a 
tory  and  Indian  leader,  had  more  humanity  of  character,  and  was 
heard  to  speak  in  his  calm  moments,  of  his  regrets  at  the  cruelties 
occasionally  committed,  by  the  Indians  and  tories.  It  may  be 
remarked  also,  that  many  of  the  British  officers  did  not  approve 
of  the  severities  of  the  same  classes  of  warriors.  They  some- 
times said,  it  was  the  disgrace  of  their  army,  to  make  such  savage 
depredations,  and  to  bear  off"  women  and  children  as  prisoners. 

In  the  winter  of  1781-2,  Col.  Willet  undertook  a  perilous  expe- 
dition, peculiarly  suited  to  the  spirit  of  the  man ;  he  marched  a 
portion  of  his  men,  from  Fort  Plain  to  Oswego,  passing  up  the 
Mohawk  on  the  ice,  and  going  the  remainder  of  his  way,  in  snow 
shoes.  But  on  reaching  that  fort,  he  learned  to  his  grateful  sur- 
prise, that  the  preliminaries  of  the  peace  were  signed,  and  an  end 
thus  put  to  the  further  struggles  of  his  suffering  countrymen. 

The  invasion  of  Ross  and  Butler  made  the  last  incursion  of 
the  enemy.  Indeed,  there  remained  but  little  more  to  be  destroyed. 
The  inhabitants  had  lost  nearly  all  but  the  soil ;  their  fields,  except 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  forts,  had  mostly  become  as  wild  as  the  sur- 
rounding wilderness.  Famine  was  often  threatening  them,  and 
especially  in  the  winter.  Their  defences  however,  of  places  so 
unproductive  were  nevertheless  of  great  importance  to  the  towns 
on  the  Hudson,  thus  shielding  the  citizens  from  approaches  to 
them,  and  thus  hindering  the  British  from  opening  communications 
with  New  York,  so  desirable  and  important.     Many  of  these 


Johnson  Hall,  p.  59. 


Gen'l.  Herkimer's  House,  p.  59. 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  59 

frontier  settlers,  fell  in  battles  in  the  regular  army,  and  in  skir- 
mishes and  battles  with  the  enemy,  at  their  homes,  and  many  fell 
silently  by  the  rifle,  the  tomahawk,  and  scalping  knife.  "  Their 
ashes  flew,  no  marble  tells  us  whither  !" 

Several  of  the  soldiers,  who  at  the  close  of  the  war,  were  with- 
out homes,  and  who  had  been  stationed  along  the  frontier,  returned 
and  settled  upon  the  places  of  their  former  trials  and  perils.  Who 
that  looked  upon  central  New  York  then,  would  have  dreamed 
of  its  sudden  growth,  and  the  rapid  displacement  of  the  Indians, 
so  that  in  less  than  fifty  years,  the  same  land  should  teem  with  a 
million  of  inhabitants,  rich  in  comforts,  and  in  beautiful  embel- 
Ushments ! 

In  the  time  of  Mrs.  Grant,  the  residences  of  Sir  Wm.  Johnson 
consisted  of  Johnson  Castle,  and  Johnson  Hall.  The  Castle  was 
on  an  eminence,  stockaded  round,  and  slightly  fortified.  The  Hall 
was  on  the  side  of  the  river,  on  a  most  fertile  and  delightful  plain. 
This  last  was  his  summer  residence  ;  and  its  two  wings  had  loop- 
holes, like  a  block  house,  for  the  use  of  musketry.  The  Castle, 
contained  his  store  of  goods,  for  trading  with  the  Indians.  Sir 
William  was  tall  in  person,  well  formed,  of  fine  countenance,  and 
sedate ;  the  latter  a  very  commendable  quality  in  the  estimation  of 
the  better  class  of  Indians.  He  was  indeed,  wholly  a  man  to  please 
them,  in  all  that  goes  to  make  a  superior  man. 

At  the  time  of  which  we  speak,  the  country  was  uninhabited, 
with  a  few  exceptions,  from  his  Fish  House,  to  Johnstown.  Near 
the  bridge,  at  the  Fish  House,  formerly  stood  a  house  built  by  Sir 
William,  where  he  generally  spent  the  fishing  season,  surrounded 
by  a  few  of  his  European  friends,  with  some  of  the  provincial 
officers  that  were  attached  to  his  suite,  and  the  head  men  of  the 
Mohawks. 

The  first  inhabitants  of  this  section,  formed  the  guard  of  the 
English  frontier  ;  and  from  this  exposed  situation,  they  were  of 
necessity,  compelled  to  act  as  farmer,  hunter,  or  soldier,  as  the  case 
required.  The  exciting  incidents  of  such  a  hfe,  laid  the  founda- 
tion of  that  high  personal  spirit  and  resolution,  that  love  of  adven- 
ture and  liberty,  that  form  such  a  distinguishing  feature  in  the 
American  character.  Such  a  location,  so  early  formed,  very 
naturally  became,  as  it  did  in  time,  the  proper  capital  of  Tryon 
county,  and  where  the  first  court-house  for  the  county,  was  built. 

It  was  the  French  war,  that  first  brought  out  the  military  tal- 
ents of  Sir  William,  till  when,  he  only  seemed  to  be  the  country 
gentleman,  and  the  good  liver.  His  prudence  in  planning,  and 
the  boldness  of  his  execution  in  war,  soon  made  his  name  in  itself, 
a  host ;  and  it  is  a  curious  fact,  that  throughout  the  whole  war, 
wherever  he  had  the  command,  he  never  met  the  enemy  but  to 
conquer. 

In  1754,  there  was  advertised  in  the  New  York  Gazette,  as  to 
be  leased  or  sold,  40,000  acres  of  "  Mohawk  coimtry  land,"  near 


60  •  Early  Inland  SettlemenH, 

Mount  Johnson,  four  miles  from  the  Mohawk  river,  and  sixteen 
from  Schenectady,  adjoining  to  Stone-Rabie,a  German  settlement, 
of  about  sixty  able  families,  who  have  a  Lutheran  and  Calvin- 
istic  church,  and  have  many  Dutch  settlements,  on  the  south  and 
east  side  thereof,  and  laying  out  of  the  general  tract  of  the  In- 
dians, in  time  of  war. 

In  1768,  Sir  Wm.  Johnson,  as  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs, 
held  a  treaty  at  his  residence  at  Johnson  Hall,  at  which  were  pres- 
ent seven  hundred  and  fifty  Indians. 

Nancy  Landerse,  widow,  born  in  Sept.  1733,  was  still  alive 
at  one  hundred  years  of  age,  in  1833,  of  the  town  of  Glenn  in 
Montgomery  county,  living  on  lands  fifty  miles  from  Albany, 
which  she  purchased  in  1783,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk 
river.  She  still  possessed  health  and  mental  vigour.  There  is 
another  widow,  (Clute)  in  the  same  town,  as  old  as  herself 

SCHOHARIE. 

This  earliest  settlement  inland,  in  New  York,  began  its  opera 
tion  as  early  as  1713,  when  sundry  German  Palatinates,  who  had 
before  been  encouraged  to  emigrate  to  this  country,  under  the 
auspices  of  Queen  Anne,  went  on  from  Albany  and  Schenectady, 
over  the  Helleberg,  to  Schoharie  creek,  where  they  settled  the 
rich  alluvial  lands,  bordering  upon  that  stream.  The  Queen,  by 
her  proclamation  of  1709,  in  Germany,  had  promised  land  gratis, 
and  an  exemption  from  all  taxes. 

Afterwards,  small  colonies  from  here,  and  from  Albany  and 
Schenectady,  established  themselves  in  various  places  along  the 
Mohawk  ;  and  in  1722,  had  extended  as  far  up  as  the  German 
Flats,  near  where  stands  the  present  village  of  Herkimer ;  but 
although  these  advanced  pioneers  knew  very  well,  that  they  were 
wholly  committed  to  the  tender  mercies  of  the  Indians,  when  so 
remote  from  white  population,  they  did  not  dare  to  venture  beyond 
the  neighbourhood  of  boatable  streams,  which  might  serve  them 
in  cases  of  emergency,  for  a  better  means  of  escape,  when  none 
had  ventured  out  in  that  unbroken  wilderness,  which  lay  to  the 
South  and  West  of  these  settlements. 

We  are  indebted  to  an  old  publication,  by  a  Mr.  Brown,  of 
Albany,  for  sundry  facts  in  relation  to  these  first  settlers  inland. 
They  left  their  homes  in  Germany,  in  a  large  party,  on  the  first  of 
January  1710  ;  going  first  to  England ;  a  great  many  died  on  their 
passage,  which  seems  to  have  been  long,  for  they  did  not  reach 
New  York  till  the  14th  of  June  1710.  About  one  thousand  of 
them  joined  the  army  at  Albany,  under  Col.  Nicholson.  Others 
were  sent  up  the  Hudson  river,  to  East  and  West  Camps,  so  called, 
because  they  encamped  at  those  places.  They  remained  there 
till  the  spring  of  1713,  when  they  went  as  far  as  Albany,  where 
they  were  provided  with  provisions  and  tools,  and  proceeded  on 


Early  Inland  Settlements,  61 

foot  to  Schoharie,  as  their  previously  determined  place  of  destina- 
tion. On  the  third  day,  they  fell  into  a  quarrel  among  themselves, 
and  some  of  them  actually  got  to  fighting,  which  led  to  the  place 
being  called  "  Fegtberg,"  that  is,  fight  hill,  at  the  place  now  the 
town  of  Berne.  The  next  day  they  came  in  sight  of  the  Scho- 
harie, where  they  all  concluded  to  rest,  and  have  a  general  wash, 
and  "  lost  some  of  their  vermin."  In  a  week  after  their  arrival 
at  Schoharie,  they  had  three  children  born,  which  as  Jirst  boms, 
deserve  the  record  of  their  names,  viz  :  Johannes  Earhart,  Wil- 
helmus  Bouck,  and  Elizabeth  Sawyer.  They  found  the  land  good, 
and  much  of  the  flats  clear.  They  went  to  work  and  planted 
corn,  which  they  got  of  the  natives.  In  working  the  ground 
with  their  hoes,  they  found  a  potato-like  root,  which  they  called 
earth  beans,  which  they  boiled  or  roasted,  and  ate  as  food. 

In  the  fall  of  171 3,  Lambert  Sternbergh  carried  a  spint  of  wheat 
along  the  Indian  foot  path,  from  Schenectady  to  Schoharie, 
where  he  sowed,  or  rather  planted  it,  over  more  than  an  acre  of 
ground,  which  grew  well ;  and  the  next  year,  he  reaped  and 
threshed  it,  and  measured  out  of  it,  83  skipple.  This  was  the  first 
wheat  ever  raised  in  Schoharie  :  and  m  forty  years  afterwards,  it 
was  reckoned  that  the  settlers  carried  to  Albany  as  much  as  36,000 
skipples  a  year. 

With  such  thrift,  the  settlers  soon  began  to  regard  themselves 
as  prosperous  and  happy.  Fertility  and  industry,  gave  them 
plenty  to  eat  and  wear  ;  they  wore  moccasins,  buckskin  breeches, 
and  jackets  of  leather,  which  they  obtained  plentifully,  from  the 
Indians.  Nine  of  them  became  the  owners  of  one  horse,  the  first ; 
for  a  time,  they  had  no  grist-mill,  no  team,  no  horses,  no  roads 
bigger  than  the  Indian  foot  paths.  They  stamped,  and  also  peeled 
their  corn,  by  the  help  of  ley,  and  then  cooked  it  to  eat.  Their 
wheat  they  carried  on  men's  backs  to  Schenectady,  to  grind,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty  miles,  each  man  carrying  his  skipple  to  his  load. 
Sometimes  they  would  go  twenty  in  a  drove,  and  often,  men  and 
women,  together.  This  they  had  to  do  for  three  or  four  years  ; 
when,  thanks  to  William  Fox,  he  constructed  a  grist-mill  among 
them. 

They  next  thought  themselves  still  more  happy  and  prosper- 
ous, when  they  began  to  have  stock,  used  horses,  and  made  and 
used  their  own  block  sleighs,  for  home  concerns,  and  their  wooden 
shod  sleighs,  to  go  even  to  Albany,  but  they  had  no  breech  collars, 
(an  invention  of  the  Schenectadians)  but  still  went  to  Albany  and 
back,  in  Jive  days.  Their  wagons  for  summer  use,  were  made  of 
blocks,  sawed  off  of  a  thick  water  beach  tree.  All  seemed  to  go 
on  well ;  when  lo  !  trouble  of  a  legal  nature  came  upon  them ; 
and  here,  Mr.  Brown,  whom  we  have  been  transcribing  in  the 
foregoing  facts,  exclaims  upon  the  stupidity  of  these  German  coun- 
trymen. The  case  was  this :  the  Queen,  believing  that  by  this  time, 
her  German  settlers  might  be  settled  m  comfort,  sent  out  her  agent 

F 


62  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

Nicholas  Bayard,  (a  man  of  but  one  eye  and  ancestor  of  the 
Bayard  race,)  with  powers  to  give  to  every  man,  a  deed  for  his 
lar\  ■  \  use  and  possession.  He  had  arrived  at  the  house  of  Hans- 
be/ry  Smith  in  Schoharie,  and  had  scarcely  sent  out  his  requests, 
when  the  whole  people  ran  together,  in  fear  and  anger,  surround- 
ing the  house  of  Smith,  and  accusing  the  agent,  of  a  design  to 
enslave  them  to  tyrannic  landholders !  There  they  were,  men 
and  women,  some  with  guns,  some  with  pitchforks,  the  women 
with  hoes  and  clubs,  demanding  the  agent,  alive  or  dead  !  On  refu- 
sal, they  fired  sixty  balls  through  the  house,  exhausting  thus  all 
their  ammunition  !  Mr.  Bayard  had  his  pistols,  and  showed  signs 
of  fight.  When  night  came  on,  they  left  the  house,  and  Mr.  Bay- 
ard went  off,  and  got  back  to  Schenectady,  in  the  course  of  one 
night.  He  sent  them  word  from  thence,  that  if  any  of  them 
would  come  to  him  there,  and  acknowledge  him  as  crown  agent, 
and  bringing  the  gift  of  one  ear  of  corn,  they  should  severally 
have  a  free  deed,  to  all  that  they  possessed.  But  none  obeyed. 
Mr.  Bayard  feeling  testy,  went  back  to  Albany  and  sold  the  whole 
land  to  seven  partners,  who  afterwards  went  by  the  name  of  "the 
seven  partners  of  Schoharie."  Among  them  were,  Rut  Van  Dam, 
Lewis  Morris,  Myndert  Schuyler,  Peter  Vanburgh  Livingston. 

These  partners,  soon  began  to  require  them  to  take  leases,  and 
pay  rent,  or  to  purchase;  and  on  their  refusal,  next,  to  take  legal  pro- 
cess, by  sending  the  sheriff,  one  Adams,  to  apprehend  the  chief  ob- 
jectors ;  but  when  he  began  with  the  first  man,  the  women  rose  en 
masse,  headed  by  Magdalen  Zee,  and  knocked  him  down,  then 
dragged  him  through  a  mud  pool  near,  then  hung  him  on  a  rail, 
and  carried  him  four  miles ;  far  worse  this,  than  Shakspeare's 
merry  wives  of  Windsor ;  for  these,  far  more  outrageous,  then 
plucked  up  a  fence  stake,  broke  two  of  his  ribs,  and  struck  out  one 
of  his  eyes,  as  a  suitable  reference  perhaps,  to  Mr.  Bayard's  case, 
and  then  left  him  to  lie,  or  to  get  off,  as  he  could  !  Such  was  the 
mistaken  tragedy  of  the  primitive  Schoharie  !  The  poor  sheriff 
got  on  as  far  as  Venbergh,  on  the  third  day,  and  from  thence  was 
fetched  in  a  wagon  to  Albany.  After  this  the  Schoharie  people 
dared  not  to  venture  to  Albany,  but  were  fain  to  send  their  wives 
only,  to  fetch  their  needed  salt,  and  that  always  on  the  Sabbath  to 
avoid  the  law.  In  time  they  got  less  fearful,  and  came  men  and  wo- 
men together,  when  the  partners  had  them  all  arrested,  and  clap- 
ped into  jail.  Upon  this,  the  people  of  Schoharie  resolved  to  send 
old  Conradt  Wise  to  England,  to  lay  before  the  Crown  the  evils 
of  which  they  deemed  themselves  the  sufferers.  But  when  he 
arrived,  he  found  all  the  facts  in  the  case  had  preceded  him,  and 
he  was  actually  put  into  the  Tower,  and  remained  a  year,  to  teach 
him  and  them,  submission  to  law.  When  he  returned,  he  and 
others,  disappointed  and  disgusted  as  they  were,  resolved  to  leave 
the  scene  of  contention,  and  to  seek  better  feelings  and  another 
land,  in  Pennsylvania,  where  under  the  auspices  of  Gov.  Keith, 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  63 

who  desired  to  make  himself  popular,  at  the  expense  of  the  New 
York  authorities,  offered  them  sundry  allurements.  They  then 
took  up  their  march  south-westwardly  for  the  Susquehanna,  with 
an  Indian  guide,  together  with  their  cattle ;  having  made  ca- 
noes at  the  river,  they  floated  down  the  stream,  driving  the  cattle, 
along  the  shores  of  the  same ;  a  terrible  march,  in  so  wild  a 
country ;  at  length  they  arrived  at  Tulpehawken  creek,  where 
they  settled,  and  where  their  descendants  now  live,  the  richest 
and  best  farmers  in  Pennsylvania.  Wiser  became  a  useful  Indian 
agent,  and  interpreted  for  the  governor,  and  authorities  in  Penn- 
sylvania, was  usefully  employed  on  numerous  occasions,  lived  re- 
spected, and  died  and  was  buried,  at  the  place  since  well  known 
as  Womelsdorf. 

What  is  sufficiently  curious  is,  that  twelve  of  their  horses  run 
off  in  the  journey,  and  after  eighteen  months,  all  found  their  way 
back  to  Schoharie,  a  distance  of  from  two  to  three  hundred  miles ! 

Those  of  the  settlers  that  remained,  submitted  to  buy  their 
lands  peaceably  of  the  "  seven  partners ;"  to  take  Indian  deeds 
for  purchases,  and  to  have  them  confirmed  by  the  governor;  now 
their  descendants  have  the  richest  farms  and  are  the  happiest  men 
in  the  state,  in  point  of  wealth  and  increase,  and  hardly  know 
anything  of  this  brief  and  eventful  history  of  their  forefathers' 
troubles  and  harassments ! 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  this  Schoharie  settlement,  was  the 
earliest  and  most  inland  fort  of  the  British,  to  wit,  old  Fort  Hun- 
ter, situated  at  the  mouth  of  Schoharie  creek,  where  was  also  the 
old  Mohawk  town,  and  a  missionary  station,  with  a  church  for 
the  Indians,  founded  under  the  auspices  of  Queen  Anne.  Here  the 
Indians  made  considerable  advances  in  civilization,  and  did  not 
abandon  the  place  till  as  late  as  1780,  when  they  Avent  off  and 
settled  in  Canada. 

From  the  preceding  period  down  to  the  era  of  the  Revolution, 
the  settlers  went  on  prosperously  and  contented.  They  then 
heartily  entered  into  the  cause  of  the  Colonies,  and  appointed 
their  committee  of  safety,  &c. 

In  the  fall  of  1777,  the  inhabitants  began  to  suffer  from  the  in- 
roads of  straggling  parties  of  Indians :  aid  was  sought  from  gov- 
ernment, and  three  forts  were  erected,  called  the  Upper,  Middle, 
and  Lower  forts.  The  middle  fort,  was  near  where  the  village 
of  Middletown  now  stands ;  they  consisted  of  intrenchments  of 
earth  and  wood,  thrown  up  in  the  usual  form  around  some  build- 
ing, which  could  serve  as  a  shelter  for  the  women  and  children  ; 
the  building  in  the  middle  fort,  was  a  stone  house,  that  in  the 
lower  fort,  was  a  stone  church.  They  were  severally  garrisoned 
with  a  few  continental  soldiers,  and  each  was  furnished  with  a 
small  field  piece.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  repaired  to  the  forts 
at  night,  and  went  abroad  in  the  mornings  to  their  employments 
on  their  farms,  thus  indicatmg,  how  very  much  a  country  so  little 


64  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

in  advance  of  Schenectady,  could  still  be  in  effect  an  Indian  coun- 
try, and  exposed  to  their  hostilities. 

During  two  or  three  years,  these  forts  afforded  protection  near 
them,  but  in  the  mean  time,  individuals  and  famiUes  were  found 
missing  in  the  outskirts,  and  the  smoking  ruins  of  their  dwellings, 
and  the  dead  bodies  of  men,  and  their  domestic  animals,  were 
alone  left  to  indicate  their  fate  ;  occasionally  a  prisoner  returned 
to  relate  the  secret  of  their  destruction. 

The  tories,  who  often  commanded  the  Indians,  were  the  most 
barbarous.  This  fact,  to  tell  of  the  white  men,  is  in  itself  some 
exculpation  of  the  Indians.  In  one  case,  a  party  of  Indians  had 
entered  a  house,  and  killed  and  scalped  a  mother  and  a  large  fam- 
ily of  children ;  a  smiling  infant  in  a  cradle  was  alone  spared, 
when  a  party  of  royalists  entering,  one  of  them  reproaching  the 
humanity  of  the  Indian  leader,  took  up  the  infant  upon  the  point 
of  his  bayonet,  and  while  it  was  struggling  and  writhing  in  its 
agonies,  exclaimed, 7 A25  too  is  a  rebel! 

Seven  Indians,  meeting  a  man  of  the  name  of  Sawyer,  took 
him  prisoner,  and  having  gone  some  distance,  and  being  laid  down 
and  asleep,  he  succeeded  in  loosing  himself,  then  taking  up  one  of 
their  hatchets,  killed  the  whole  six  !  The  seventh  escaped  wound- 
ed, and  Sawyer  returned  home ! 

In  the  year  1 778,  McDonald,  a  tory  of  enterprise  and  activity, 
with  a  company  of  about  three  hundred  Indians  and  tories,  fell 
upon  the  settlement  with  cruel  barbarity.  Col.  Vrooman  being 
then  in  command,  deemed  himself  too  weak  to  spare  any  help 
from  the  garrison ;  when  a  Mr.  Harper,  afterwards  an  active  colo- 
nel, ordered  his  horse,  and  made  his  way  cautiously  and  securely 
to  Albany,  going  through  the  places  occupied  by  the  enemy. 
Having  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  tory  at  Fox's  creek  in  the  night, 
his  room  was  entered  by  four  tories,  he  terrified  them  off  with 
his  sword  and  pistols,  then  fastened  his  door  and  kept  awake  till 
daylight,  when  he  went  off;  an  Indian  followed  him,  who  when- 
ever he  turned  upon  him,  also  turned  and  fled.  At  Albany  he 
procured  a  troop  of  horse,  and  appeared  soon  again  at  Schoharie. 
The  garrison  seeing  his  approach  sallied  forth,  and  joined  in  driv- 
ing off  the  enemy. 

In  the  year  1779, the  little  settlement  on  Cobble  creek,  ten  miles 
west  from  Schoharie,  was  assaulted,  and  defended  by  Capt.  Pat- 
rick; he  was  killed,  and  his  men  retreated;  the  inhabitants  seeing 
their  flight,  also  made  their  escape,  although  pursued  by  about 
three  hundred  of  the  enemy ;  their  escape  was  favoured  by  the  des- 
perate resistance  of  seven  of  the  soldiers,  who  having  gained  pos- 
session of  a  house,  kept  up  such  a  spirited  fire  from  the  windows, 
as  to  check  and  detain  the  pursuers.  At  length  thel  house  was 
fired,  and  six  of  the  brave  defenders  perished  in  the  flames,  the 
seventh  was  afterwards  found  a  few  rods  from  the  house,  much 
burned  and  horribly  mutilated,  and  having  a  roll  of  continental 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  65 

money  stuck  in  his  hand,  placed  there  in  derision  of  the  cause  he 
had  been  supporting  !  Of  the  45  who  placed  themselves  under 
Capt.  Patrick,  21  escaped,  22  were  killed,  and  two  were  taken  pri- 
soners. The  Indians  also  suffered  severely.  The  tory  who  com- 
manded them  was  afterwards  killed  by  the  celebrated  Murphy,  a 
man  who  had  belonged  to  Morgan's  rifle  corps,  and  who  was  on 
many  occasions  serviceable  to  Schoharie.  He  usually  directed 
their  scouting  parties,  and  being  peculiarly  expert  in  Indian  war- 
fare, in  his  manner  of  firing  with  a  double  barreled  rifle,  a  new 
thing  to  them,  he  became  their  peculiar  terror.  At  one  time  he 
was  pursued  by  a  party,  all  of  whom  he  outran  save  one,  whom 
he  turned  round  and  killed — then  seizing  his  rifle  he  killed 
another  nearest,  the  rest  now  sure  of  their  prey,  thinkiHg  from 
his  fire  that  he  had  no  other  defence,  rushed  upon  him,  but  he 
discharging  his  remaining  rifle  and  killing  another,  the  rest  fled, 
thinking  that  he  was  assisted  by  some  invisible  spirit,  and  crying 
out,  that  he  was  the  man  who  could  shoot  all  day. 

In  the  fall  of  1780,  the  perils  and  the  evils  of  war,  were  visited 
again  upon  Schoharie,  by  a  force  of  800  under  the  command  of 
Sir  John  Johnson,  consisting  of  British  regulars,  loyalists,  tories, 
and  Indians.  They  had  designed  a  surprise,  but  being  timely 
discovered  in  their  approach,  they  avoided  the  middle  fort,  and 
began  their  destruction  first  upon  the  houses,  barns,  and  the  cap- 
ture of  the  cattle.  They  next  attacked  the  fort  consisting  of  about 
250  men.  Major  Woolsey  in  the  command  was  despondent,  and 
thought  of  treating  for  terms,  but  was  prevented  by  the  courage 
of  Murphy  and  others.  The  assailants  withdrew,  and  proceed- 
ing down  the  creek,  destroyed  every  thing  in  their  progress,  and 
after  a  faint  effort  against  the  lower  fort,  pursued  their  course  to 
Fort  Hunter,  thence  upward  along  the  Mohawk,  devastating 
wherever  they  went,  and  burning  the  town  of  Caughnawaga. 

After  so  general  a  destruction  of  the  Schoharie  settlement,  the 
place  was  allowed  to  repose,  and  during  the  years  1781  and  1782, 
though  often  alarmed,  they  had  no  serious  molestation. 

There  maybe  here  added,  as  a  sequel  to  the  foregoing,  some  facts 
concerning  the  personal  prowess  and  activity  of  Col.  Harper  before 
named.  While  he  was  in  command  in  Schoharie  in  1777,  having 
occasion  to  visit  and  explore  the  state  of  Cherry  Valley,  and 
going  alone  along  the  Indian  trail,  he  saw  at  a  distance  a  com- 
pany of  Indians  advancing;  not  knowing  how  to  escape,  he 
promptly  resolved  to  encounter  them,  and  to  make  the  best  shift 
he  could.  Concealing  his  regimentals  with  his  great  coat,  he 
saluted  their  leader,  whom  he  had  before  known,  with  a  How 
do  you  brother?  he  was  answered  with,  where  do  you  go — his 
reply  was,  on  a  secret  expedition — and  pretending  to  have  an 
object  in  common  with  theirs,  he  was  allowed  to  pass.  He  then 
made  a  circuit  and  found  fifteen  men,  with  whom  he  pursued  to 
the  night  camp  of  the  Indians ;  these  he  found  asleep,  and  with  their 
9  F  2 


66  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

arms  stacked  near  them ;  he  succeeded  to  fall  upon  every  man, 
to  bind  them  with  cords,  and  marched  them  all  to  Albany. 

A  Col.  Fisher  residing  near  Caughnawaga,  at  the  time  of  the 
assault  upon  that  settlement,  after  defending  himself  in  his  house 
with  his  two  brothers,  both  of  whom  were  killed,  fled  from  it, 
and  was  overtaken  by  the  Indians,  who  tomahawked  and  scalped 
him,  leaving  him,  as  they  supposed,  dead.  The  next  day  he 
was  found  by  a  friend,  and  taken  to  his  house.  He  recovered, 
lived  long  after  the  war,  a  useful  member  of  society,  and  a  living 
spectacle  of  wonder. 

Sir  John  Johnson  sat  down  for  awhile  at  Fox's  Mills,  two  miles 
below  the  upper  Mohawk  castle ;  here  he  threw  up  a  breast- 
work. General  Van  Rensselaer,  who  was  joined  by  the  Cana- 
joharie  mihtia,  assaulted  his  position,  driving  off"  the  Indians  first, 
who  pursued  their  return  towards  the  Susquehanna.  Sir  John 
defended  his  position  with  spirit  during  the  day,  and  in  the  night 
effected  his  retreat,  destroying  however,  as  they  went,  the  whole 
country  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  from  Caughnawaga  to 
Stone  Arabia  and  Palatine.  This  with  the  ravages  of  Brant  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river,  in  the  previous  August,  completed  the 
destruction  of  the  Mohawk  settlements. 

Fort  Hunter,  at  the  mouth  of  Schoharie  creek  twenty-one  miles 
from  Schenectady,  was  so  named  in  honour  of  Governor  Hunter, 
and  was  the  same  place  also  named  Mohawk  Castle  before  that 
time.  At  that  place,  was  a  church  as  a  missionary  station,  of 
which  account  is  given  to  this  effect  in  the  account  of  Church 
Missions,  London  ed.  1730 — to  wit:  In  the  year  1710  Mr.  Bar- 
clay, Episcopal  minister  stationed  at  Albany,  was  accustomed  to 
go  to  a  village  called  the  Mohawk  Castle,  then  the  most  remote 
place  of  the  English.  There  he  often  preached  to  the  Indians 
coming  there  to  traffic  and  to  get  provisions.  After  a  time  he 
set  on  foot  a  subscription  for  establishing  and  building  a  church, 
when  the  governor,  Robert  Hunter,  contributed  largely.  The 
town  of  Albany  gave  ^6200,  and  every  inhabitant  of  the  poor 
village  of  Schenectady,  something  also.  It  was  built  and  opened 
in  1716. 

There  has  been  no  settled  pastor  in  the  church  since  the  revo- 
lutionary war.  During  the  war  the  building  was  occupied  as  a 
fort.  Since  then  it  went  to  decay,  having  never  been  used  after- 
wards as  a  church.  Finally,  in  1829-30,  it  was,  by  reason  of  its 
standing  near  the  site  of  the  canal,  unceremoniously  demolished. 

Mrs.  Getty  Vanderzee,  who  died  lately  at  Greenbush,  at  the 
age  of  86  years,  (mother  of  S.  T.  V.  Esq.  of  Troy,)  was  the  last 
oi  four  sisters,  who,  together  with  other  females,  assisted  by  an 
Ensign  Becker,  of  sixteen  years  of  age,  gallantly  defended  the 
middle  fort  at  Schoharie,  when  surprised  and  assaulted,  by  a 
large  number  of  British  and  Indians,  at  a  time,  when  the  troops, 
and  male  inhabitants,  were  sent  to  the  lower  fort — four  miles 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  67 

distant.  The  females,  with  their  childi*en,  had  gone  to  the  fort 
for  protection,  and  the  major  in  command,  insisting  on  surren- 
dering, was  resisted  by  the  young  ensign,  who,  with  the  women, 
went  to  work  to  manage  the  guns,  which  they  did  with  such  suc- 
cess, as  to  prolong  the  defence,  until  relief  arrived  from  the  fort 
below,  when  the  enemy  was  routed,  and  the  fort,  and  its  defend- 
ers were  saved. 

Among  the  novelties  of  New  York,  redeemed  from  the  olden 
time,  maybe  mentioned  the  discovery,  in  May  1842,  of  ^'How^s 
Cave^^  found  by  Mr.  How,  on  his  land,  four  miles  from  Schoha- 
rie court-house,  wherein  he  has  entered  seven  miles,  when  he  was 
stopped  from  further  research,  by  a  lake,  and  to  traverse  which, 
he  will  build  a  boat,  to  proceed  and  examine  further.  The  cave 
has  abundance  of  great  halls  and  chambers,  of  from  one  hun- 
dred to  three  hundred  feet  long,  twenty  to  fifty  feet  wide,  and 
twenty  to  fifty  feet  high :  ornamented  above,  and  on  the  sides, 
with  numerous  stalactites,  of  various  colours,  and  fanciful  forms, 
some  of  which,  by  the  aid  of  the  imagination,  present  the  forms, 
of  men  and  women,  such  as  Washington,  Venus,  &c ;  some  also, 
resembUng  in  form  and  sound,  the  piano-forte,  organ,  pipes,  &c  ; 
and,  to  add  to  the  picturesque  scenery,  there  are  streams  of  water, 
and  waterfalls,  with  their  adjuncts,  of  murmur  and  roar.  One 
of  the  enormous  stalactites,  measures  forty  feet  wide,  ten  feet  thick, 
and  thirty  feet  high,  and  one  of  the  domes,  is  of  three  hundred 
feet  in  extent.  It  is  easy  to  foresee,  that  such  a  cave  must  become 
a  place  of  great  resort,  to  summer  tourists,  and  must  bring  a  good 
revenue  hereafter,  to  the  fortunate  discoverer.  It  was  found,  by 
observing  at  its  closed  entrance,  occasional  escapes  of  air ;  and 
by  removing  sundry  loose  stones,  an  easy  and  safe  entrance  was 
made  to  these  chambers  of  subterranean  wonder  ! 

CANAJOHARIE. 

In  the  spring  of  1779,  General  CHnton,  with  two  regiments  of 
the  New  York  line,  encamped  at  Canajoharie — thife  defending 
the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  from  much  mischief  in  that  year. 

In  the  month  of  August,  1780,  the  Indian  chief,  Joseph  Brant, 
at  the  head  of  four  or  five  hundred  Indians  and  tories,  broke  in 
upon  the  settlement,  at  a  time  when  the  militia  were  absent, 
guarding  a  number  of  batteaux,  transporting  provisions  to  Fort 
Schuyler — and  succeeded  to  lay  waste  the  whole  countrj^  around 
Canajoharie — killing  sixteen  of  the  inhabitants,  and  capturing 
between  fifty  and  sixty  prisoners,  mostly  women  and  children, 
twelve  of  whom  they  sent  back ;  of  course  showing  some  mercy 
even  in  their  feelings  of  revenge  and  cruelty.  They  killed  and 
drove  away  upwards  of  three  hundred  head  of  cattle  and  horses 
— burned  fifty-three  dwelling-houses— as  many  barns — a  church 
— a  grist-mill,  and  two  small  forts  occupied  by  the  Avomen.     This 


as  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

had  been  the  previous  place  of  residence  of  Brant  and  his  parents 
— :of  course  he  was  warring  against  his  former  friends  and  neigh- 
bours !  He  had  just  before  married  the  daughter  of  Colonei 
Croghan,  whom  he  had  had  by  an  Indian  women. 

In  the  winter  of  1781,  requisition  was  made  upon  the  justices 
of  Canajoharie,  for  warrants  of  impressment  for  twenty  sleighs, 
to  be  used  in  transporting  provisions  to  Fort  Schuyler,  and  to  be 
attended  by  escorts  of  eighty  men.  They  succeeded  to  fulfil  the 
requisition  ;  but  it  ought  not  to  be  forgotten,  by  the  present  gene- 
ration, who  now  witness  such  easy  conveyance  along  the  same 
route,  that  such  was  then  the  impediments  from  the  depth  of  the 
snow  and  the  want  of  roads,  that  they  made  but  two  or  three 
miles  advance  in  a  day,  in  some  of  the  days  of  laborious  travel. 
Such  necessary  duties  imposed  upon  the  inhabitants  of  the  fron- 
tiers, were  very  severe  and  exposing — and  on  them  essentially 
devolved  the  labour  of  transporting  and  guarding  provisions  and 
ammunition,  intended  for  Forts  Plain,  Dayton  and  Schuyler.  Be- 
sides this,  in  the  early  part  of  the  summer  of  1781,  there  was  a 
constant  warfare  carried  on  in  the  vicinity  of  the  forts — small 
parties  hovered  about  Fort  Plain,  and  cut  olf  every  soldier  or 
inhabitant,  who  was  so  careless  or  unfortunate  as  to  stray  beyond 
the  walls. 

Fort  Plain  being  remarkable  as  a  block  house  of  very  superior 
construction,  I  here  give  a  picture  of  it,  as  it  once  stood,  on  the  • 
brow  of  a  hill,  above  the  village.  It  derived  its  name,  as  is  sup- 
posed, from  its  affording  di plain  view  of  the  surrounding  country. 
It  was  made,  among  other  purposes,  as  a  place  for  the  safe  retreat 
of  families  in  cases  of  extremity.  It  was  made  of  hewn  timber, 
and  contained  three  stories — the  first  story  was  30  feet  diameter : 
the  second  was  40  feet,  and  the  third  was  50  feet.  Besides  the 
port  holes  seen,  there  were  also  perpendicular  ones,  through  the 
floors,  which  severally  projected  five  feet — these  to  fire  down 
upon  assailants,  when  under  the  over-reaehing  and  widening  top. 
It  had  also  cannon  in  the  lower  tier.  At  the  close  of  the  war,  it 
was  used  for  sometime,  as  a  place  of  deposit  for  military  stores. 
It  was  at  this  place,  that  old  king  Hendrick  once  had  his  resi- 
dence. 

This  Fort  Plain  (Plank  fort,  originally  called,)  was  commanded 
in  the  summer  of  1781,  by  the  hero.  Col.  Marius  Willett.  On 
one  occasion,  his  scouts  having  discovered  an  Indian  trail,  fol- 
lowed it  up  to  the  Indian  camp  of  about  three  hundred  men, 
under  command  of  the  tory,  John  Doxtader,  who  the  day  before 
had  destroyed  the  town  of  Curry,  only  a  short  distance  above 
Schenectady.  They  returned  and  gave  the  information,  when 
Col.  Willett  and  Major  M^Kean  went  off  with  a  force  of  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  men — going  through  a  dark  night,  without 
a  road,  to  the  place  just  at  day  light.  Then  concealing  them- 
selves in  the  Cedar  Swamp,  two  men  were  sent  forward  to  pass 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  69 

over  a  piece  of  open  ground,  in  the  sight  of  the  enemy,  and  in 
case  of  pursuit,  to  lead  in  by  different  courses,  to  the  two  com- 
mands, previously  divided,  for  the  purpose  of  better  effect.  The 
stratagem  succeeded;  and  as  the  enemy  pursued,  Major  M'Kean 
opened  at  the  proper  time,  a  galling  and  destructive  fire,  upon 
the  party  nearest  him,  and  the  party  under  Col.  Willett  fell  upon 
the  other  body.  The  camp  of  the  enemy,  and  all  their  plunder 
was  taken.  The  brave  Major  M'Kean  received  two  wounds,  of 
which  he  soon  after  died.  The  Indians  fled  toward  the  Susque- 
hanna, and  were  pursued  with  considerable  loss. 

Mrs.  Grant  tells  us,  in  her  memoirs,  of  her  visit  to  king  Hen- 
drick  in  1761,  at  what  was  then  called  Fort  Hendrick,  ^nd  Indian 
Castle,  but  in  fact,  the  present  Canajoharie.  The  home  of  the 
king  stood  on  rising  ground,  surrounded  by  palisades — the  mode 
then  of  making  forts.  He  was,  indeed,  a  princely  figure,  and  was 
dressed  in  his  mantle  of  blue  cloth,  and  silver-laced.  He  had  two 
rooms  on  a  floor,  and  in  the  same  room  where  he  was  seated,  was 
a  pile  of  maize.  While  there,  his  son,  a  fine  lad,  playfully  brought 
in  his  colt,  as  his  pet  and  plaything.  When  we  read  of  Indian 
castles  as  the  names  of  places,  now  found  in  New  York,  where 
no  castles  appear,  they  must  be  understood  to  mark  places, 
where  once  the  Indian  chiefs  resided,  and  had  them  palisaded, 
as  above  mentioned,  in  the  case  of  king  Hendrick.  He  was  killed 
in  our  colonial  service,  at  Fort  Edward.  His  home  above  men- 
tioned, was  once  the  principal  seat  of  the  Mohawks,  and  still 
abounds  with  apple-trees  of  their  planting — and  producing  excel- 
lent cider.  Near  it,  was  Brant's  church,  so  called  after  that  chief, 
who  is  said  to  have  left  it  and  its  associations,  with  great  reluc- 
tance. In  the  same  neighbourhood,  the  British  had  built  a  fort, 
in  the  French  war.  We  saw  this  good  looking,  large  church, 
surmounted  with  its  steeple,  but  out  of  use,  in  1828,  then  stand- 
ing within  ten  feet  of  the  canal.  We  saw  also,  the  site  of  the 
aforenamed  Fort  Plain,  on  a  hill, — then  a /?eac£/w/ pasture  ground, 
and  actually  being  "  close  cropt  by  nibbling  sheep." 

Canajoharie  derives  its  name,  from  a  deep  hole  of  foaming 
water,  in  the  creek  formed  at  the  foot  of  one  its  falls,  and  signi- 
fies a  pot  or  kettle,  which  washes  itself. 

One  of  the  remarkables  of  Canajoharie  is  their  valuable  Sulphur 
Springs  at  Sharon,  a  place,  worthy  to  be  herein  named,  because 
it  is  destined,  at  no  distant  day,  to  become  very  attractive  to  New 
Yorkers,  and  New  Englanders,  and  even  to  Philadelphians,  be- 
cause so  much  easier  of  access,  with  less  of  expense,  than  the 
heretofore  famed  Sulphur  Springs,  so  much  visited,  in  Virginia. 
These  springs,  from  their  superior  quality  of  sulphuretted  hydro- 
gen, will  be  deemed  much  more  efficacious  to  rheumatic  and  cuta- 
neous diseases,  than  those  of  Virginia.  Already,  there  is  a  large 
hotel  on  the  premises,  to  provide  entertainment  for  three  hundred 
visiters.  Its  elevation,  and  scenery,  and  healthiness,  will  com- 
mand attention. 


70  Early  Inland  Settlements. 


CHERRY    VALLEY. 

The  original  patent  for  this  place,  was  granted  in  1738,  by 
George  Clark,  to  John  Lindesay  and  three  others.  In  the  next 
year,  it  became  wholly  the  property  of  those  two  named  gentle- 
men ;  and  Mr.  Lindesay  made  his  settlement  on  the  farm,  called 
Lindesay's  Bush,  afterwards  successively  owned  by  John  Wells, 
and  Judge  Hudson.  The  country,  at  the  time,  was  filled  with 
elk  and  deer,  and  had  a  full  proportion  of  bears,  wolves,  beavers, 
and  foxes,  and  for  that  cause,  was  the  favourite  hunting  ground  of 
the  Mohawks,  where  they  erected  their  cabins,  and  hunted  their 
game  upon  the  mountains — they  being  1700  feet  in  elevation 
above  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk.  There,  Mr.  Lindesay,  with 
his  son-in-law,  Mr.  Congreve,  a  British  lieutenant,  dwelt  in 
lonely  solitude — they  being  fifteen  miles  from  any  settlement,  and 
the  intervening  country  could  only  be  travelled  by  the  Indian 
footpath. 

In  the  deep  snow  of  1740,  they  became  wholly  isolated,  and 
cut  off"  from  all  possibility  of  supplies,  and  when  likely  to  starve, 
they  were  visited  by  a  friendly  Indian,  coming  to  them  on  his 
snow  shoes,  who  from  time  to  time,  brought  them  such  relief,  and 
necessaries — carried  on  his  back,  as  preserved  the  lives  of  these 
first  settlers. 

In  the  next  year,  they  were  joined  by  sundry  Scotch  Irish 
families,  from  Londonderry,  New  Hampshire ;  say  the  Rev. 
Samuel  Dunlap,  David  Ramsay,  William  Gallt,  James  Campbell, 
William  Dickson,  &c.,  in  all,  about  thirty  persons.  From  these, 
their  place  of  settlement  received  the  name  of  Cherry  Valley,  in 
allusion  to  the  many  fine  wild  cherry  trees,  then  growing  there. 
For  a  long  time,  this,  then  far  advanced  settlement,  became  the 
distinguishing  name  of  a  large  section  of  the  country,  south  and 
west. 

These  first  settlers,  under  the  influence  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Linde- 
say, became  a  strictly  religious  community.  They  made  a  log 
church  and  school-house,  a  grist  and  saw-mill.  In  the  course  of  ten 
years,  they  were  joined  by  John  Wells,  and  two  or  three  other 
famihes. 

In  time,  it  occurred,  that  sundry  disaffected  Indians,  of  Oquago, 
began  to  threaten  hostiUty,  so  that  it  became  expedient  to  raise 
a  defence  of  800  rangers,  for  Tryon  county,  and  to  place  a  com- 
pany of  them  at  Cherry  Valley,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
McKean  ;  to  these  were  joined  the  occasional  services  of  the  few 
inhabitants.  Some  of  these  went  on  to  join  Sir  Wm.  Johnson, 
at  Fort  Edward,  in  1757,  and  survived  to  come  back  and  tell 
of  their  doings,  in  many  years  of  after  life. 

During  the  harassing  periods  of  the  French  wars,  population 
continued  to  increase  along  the  rivers  and  valleys,  and  among 
the  rest,  sundry  settlements  had  been  made,  in  various  positions, 


Early  Inland  Seltlements.  71 

around  Cherry  Valley — among  these,  came  the  family  of  the 
Harpers.  These,  afterwards,  removed  from  the  Valley,  and  es- 
tablished themselves  at  Harper's  Field,  in  the  present  county  of 
Delaware,  where  they  became  distinguished  for  their  courage  and 
ardent  attachment  in  the  cause  of  American  liberty.  At  the 
period  of  the  Revolution,  the  whole  population  of  Cherry  Valley, 
was  short  of  three  hundred.  Then  came  on  the  tug  of  war,  and 
then  this  community  came  to  learn  all  the  terrors  and  the  incidents, 
from  the  hostile  incursions  and  ravages  of  the  Indians,  and  their 
equally  savage  allies,  the  tories — stimulated  and  excited  by  such 
loyalists,  as  Colonels  Guy  Johnson,  and  Claus,  Sir  John  Johnson, 
John  and  Walter  Butler,  and  Joseph  Brant.  All  names  of  terror 
and  affliction  to  the  inland  settlers,  every  where.  Deeply  and 
feelingly  did  they  make  their  names  to  be  feared  and  remembered, 
by  all  the  inhabitants,  then  dwelling  beyond  Schenectady. 

In  the  summer  of  1776,  Capt.  Robert  McKean  raised  a  com- 
pany of  rangers  for  the  defence  of  the  Valley — a  defence  of  logs 
and  earth,  was  thrown  up  around  Colonel  Samuel  Campbell's 
house  and  barn,  as  a  place  of  refuge,  and  to  these  were  added  two 
block  houses — afterwards  a  proper  fort  was  erected  there,  at  the  in- 
stance of  General  Lafayette,  then  at  Johnstown.  To  this,  came  in 
many  of  the  inhabitants,  from  Unadilla  and  other  towns — even 
the  boys  of  the  place,  formed  themselves  into  companies  of  little 
soldiers.  In  one  of  their  parades  without  the  fort,  they  were  seen 
by  Brant  and  his  Indians,  at  a  distance,  and  taking  them  for  real 
soldiers,  he  went  off,  without  attempting  his  intended  surprise. 
They  however,  met  with  Lieutenant  Wormwood,  bearing  a  mes- 
sage, who  being  shot  from  his  horse,  was  tomahawked  by  Brant, 
who  was  his  personal  friend,  but  did  not  know  it  was  he  at  the 
time.  In  the  same  year.  Brant  came  with  his  party,  to  Springfield, 
and  burnt  it,  carrying  off  several  prisoners.  At  one  time  Brant 
wrote  a  letter  to  Captain  McKean— for  he  could  write,  having 
been  educated  at  Wheelock's  academy,  in  which  he  gave  him  a 
kind  of  challenge. 

In  the  fall  of  1778,  the  garrison  was  increased  under  Colonel 
Alden,  in  consequence  of  intelligence  received,  that  Brant  and 
Waller  Butler,  were  on  their  way  to  the  place,  with  five  hundred 
Indians,  and  two  hundred  rangers.  The  place,  however,  was 
assaulted  by  surprise — the  advance  body  of  them  was  composed 
chiefly  of  Senecas,  at  that  time  the  wildest  and  most  ferocious  of 
the  Six  Nations.  Colonel  Alden  was  killed — they  massacred  the 
whole  family  of  the  Wells',  except  the  late  John  Wells  of  New 
York  city.  He  alone  was  saved,  by  being  at  his  school  in  Sche- 
nectady. The  Rev.  Samuel  Dunlap,  and  his  daughter,  were 
made  prisoners,  and  protected  by  an  Indian  chief— his  wife  was 
taken  and  killed.  A  Mr.  Mitchell,  being  in  the  fields,  and  seeing 
the  Indians,  hid  himself  in  the  woods,  but  he  was  obliged  to  see 
his  house  fired,  and  afterwards,  to  find  his  wife  and  four  children 


72  Early  Inland  Settlements, 

killed.  The  party  which  surrounded  the  house  of  Colonel  Camp- 
bell, took  his  wife  and  four  children  prisoners,  their  lives  were 
spared,  and  they  endured  a  long  and  painful  captivity.  Mr.  Clyde 
escaped,  with  four  children,  to  the  woods,  and  lay  concealed  under 
a  large  log.  Thirty-two  of  the  inhabitants,  principally  women 
and  children,  were  killed,  and  sixteen  of  the  soldiers;  the  terror 
of  the  scene  was  increased,  by  the  conflagration  of  all  the  houses 
and  out-houses  in  the  settlement — some  few  escaped  to  the 
Mohawk  river,  the  remainder  were  made  prisoners.  They  who 
should  like  to  see  the  particulars  of  this  tragic  affair,  may  read 
the  facts  at  large,  in  Mr.  Campbell's  interesting  history  of  Tryon 
county. 

It  is  but  justice  to  Brant,  to  say,  that  in  the  midst  of  his  sever- 
ity, he  remembered  mercy.  He  earnestly  inquired  for  his  friend, 
Captain  McKean,  saying  that  if  he  could  have  captured  him,  he 
should  have  been  glad,  as  he  should  have  liked  to  prove  to  him, 
that  he  respected  his  valour,  and  should  be  glad  to  show  him 
friendship  and  mercy.  On  another  occasion,  finding  a  woman 
alone  in  a  house,  he  told  her  to  feign  herself  sick,  and  get  to  bed, 
and  that  when  the  Senecas  should  come,  he  could  say  she  was 
only  a  sick  woman.  They  did  come,  and  passed  away,  and  then 
he  painted  the  woman  and  children  with  his  Mohawk  paint,  as 
a  sign  of  her  protection.  He  was  always  jealous  of  his  character 
as  a  humane  chieftain.  Several  attacks  were  made  upon  the  fort, 
but  without  success,  aiid  yet  the  garrison  was  not  strong  enough 
to  make  a  successful  sortie.  The  Indians  went  off",  with  between 
thirty  and  forty  prisoners,  and  not  long  after,  sent  back  the 
women  and  children — certainly  a  merciful  action  for  Indians. 
Mrs.  Campbell,  and  Mrs.  Moore,  and  their  children,  they  retained, 
because  their  husbands  had  been  active  partisans  against  them. 
After  this,  all  the  country  was  abandoned  by  the  inhabitants,  and 
in  the  next  summer,  the  garrison  also  went  away,  to  join  Gen- 
erals CUnton  and  Sullivan. 

Mrs.  Campbell  and  her  children,  before  named,  after  a  captivity 
of  two  years,  were  exchanged,  for  Mrs.  Butler  and  children,  the 
family  of  Col.  John  Butler,  which  he  had  left  behind,  when  he 
first  went  off  to  Canada.  At  Mrs.  Campbell's  return,  she  joined 
her  husband,  and  lived  a  while  at  Troy.  It  was  not  till  1784, 
that  they  returned  to  their  homes,  made  waste  and  desolate, 
at  Cherry  Valley.  There  he  was  afterwards  visited  in  his  log 
house,  by  Gen.  Washington,  Gov.  Clinton,  Gen.  Hand,  and  many 
officers  of  the  New  York  line,  then  making  a  tour  up  the  Mohawk 
— they  were  all  equally  satisfied,  to  take  things  rough  as  they  found 
them — all  being  cheered  by  hopes  of  better  days  to  come.  While 
there,  they  made  inquiries  for  a  brave  Irishman,  of  the  name  of 
Shankland,  who  had  made  a  most  gallant  defence  of  his  house, 
against  sundry  Indians,  by  firing  at  them  from  his  windows.  At 
last,  they  succeeded  to  set  it  on  fire,  and  supposing  that  they  had 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  73 

been  consumed  with  the  building,  they  went  off,  but  he  had  got 
out  by  a  back  way,  through  his  hemp  field,  and  now  standing 
up  in  the  midst  of  these  distinguished  guests,  he  went  over  the 
details  of  his  perilous  fight.  Such  a  group,  it  has  been  said, 
would  form  a  good  subject  for  the  pencil.  On  the  occasion  of 
the  same  visit,  was  shown  the  three  guns  of  one  Mayall,  who 
when  made  a  prisoner,  a  little  after  the  peace,  by  two  Indians, 
feigning  friendship — he  watched  his  chance,  when  crossing  a  river 
— struck  down  the  man  nearest  him  on  the  bank — fired  at  and 
wounded  the  second,  then  swimming  the  river,  the  third  Indi.an 
fired  at  Mayall,  missed  and  run — when  Mayall  with  his  own, 
and  the  guns  of  the  two  others,  came  to  Mr.  Campbell's  house, 
and  deposited  them  as  trophies — and  well  they  were  qualified  to 
add  to  the  interesting  group  aheady  proposed  in  the  picture. 

At  the  close  of  the  war,  the  most  of  the  surviving  inhabitants 
of  Cherry  Valley,  returned  to  their  former  homes — the  places  of 
many,  however,  were  never  re-occupied  by  the  same  owners, 
and  many  a  tear  was  shed,  and  many  a  bitter  remembrance  was 
occasioned'  by  their  absence,  and  the  thought  of  the  cause. 

It  may  possibly  interest  some,  to  know  that  this  is  the  home 
and  the  birth  place  of  Cooper,  who  has  so  well  succeeded  to  draw 
the  woodsman's  life,  and  the  Indian's  character. 

THE  GERMAN  FLATS  AND  FORT  HERKIMER. 

This  place  constituted  the  most  advanced  position  of  white 
population,  lying  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  sixty  miles 
from  Schenectady.  It  consisted  of  a  village  called  the  German 
Flats,  originally  settled  by  Germans,  under  the  auspices  of  Queen 
Anne.  There  an  old  Fort  had  been  built,  by  Colonel  Charles 
Clinton,  as  early  as  1758,  and  to  which  was  given  the  name, 
afterwards,  of  Fort  Herkimer,  in  honour  of  General  Herkimer, 
of  the  militia,  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Oriskany,  not  far  beyond 
the  Flats.  There  was  also  another  fort  on  the  Flats,  called  Fort 
Dayton,  which  was  built  in  1776,  and  named  after  Colonel  Dayton. 

The  people  of  the  Flats,  were  called  out  for  the  defence  of  their 
country,  in  the  summer  of  1777,  by  a  proclamation  of  General 
Herkimer,  wherein  he  required  the  services  of  every  male  person, 
of  from  sixteen  to  sixty  years  of  age  ;  at  the  same  time,  all  above 
sixty,  were  to  remain  at  home,  and  to  gather  at  a  call,  for  the 
home  defence  of  the  women  and  children. 

After  the  battle  of  Oriskany,  in  which  General  Herkimer  lost 
his  life,  the  whole  district  of  the  German  Flats,  was  filled  with 
grief  and  mourning.  Almost  every  family  had  lost  some  relatives. 
"  Rachell  weeping  for  her  children  and  they  were  not."  Wives 
lamenting  husbands  and  sons — sons  too  of  only  sixteen  years 
of  age,  and  their  valued  General,  in  whom  they  trusted,  was  also 
slain. 

10  G 


74  Early  Inland  Settlements, 

Among  the  individuals  who  most  distinguished  themselves  for 
personal  prowess  and  remarkable  success,  was  the  person  of 
Christian  Shell,  of  Shell-bush,  in  the  present  county  of  Herkimer.  > 
He  had  refused  to  go  into  any  of  the  forts,  but  built  his  own 
block  house,  upon  his  farm.  The  first  story  had  no  windows, 
but  several  loop-holes,  through  which  those  within,  could  fire 
upon  the  enemy.  The  upper  story  projected  over  the  first,  two 
or  three  feet,  in  which  were  also  apertures  for  fire  arms.  Being 
in  his  field,  working  with  his  two  sons,  he  saw  the  Indians  ap- 
proaching, and  got  securely  in  the  house,  where  his  wife  was 
already  prepared  with  his  arms.  As  the  Indians  and  tories,  sixty 
in  number,  neared  the  house,  he  fired  with  a  blunderbuss,  and 
caused  their  recoil.  One  McDonald  he  wounded,  and  then 
dragged  him  into  his  house.  The  fight  was  maintained  the 
whole  afternoon — his  wife,  all  the  time,  acting  as  a  true  heroine, 
and  "meet  helper,"  was  occasionally  busy,  in  sundry  sorties, 
among  the  wounded,  in  using  the  chopping  axe — having  herself, 
spoiled  five  of  their  guns.  The  result  finally  was,  that  they  killed 
eleven  and  wounded  six.  The  whole  stoiy  is  told,  in  very  homely 
poetry,  preserved  in  sixteen  stanzas,  in  Campbell's  history — con- 
cluding with  the  humble  and  devout  confession. 

"  But  God  was  his  assistant,  his  buckler  and  his  shield, 
He  dispersed  this  cruel  enemy,  and  made  them  quit  the  field." 

Remarkable  as  the  story  is,  it  is  said  to  be  true.  We  are  sorry 
to  add,  that  in  the  succeeding  year,  the  Indians  stealthily  shot 
him,  while  at  work  in  his  field,  after  which,  his  wife  and  children 
moved  into  one  of  the  forts. 

When  the  German  Flats  were  assaulted  and  burned,  in  1778, 
by  the  Indians,  the  place  consisted  of  thirty-eight  dwellings,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  river,  and  of  as  many  on  the  north 
side — happily,  but  two  persons  were  killed,  as  the  inhabitants 
had  a  previous  intimation  of  the  approach  of  the  enemy,  and  got 
off  in  time  to  save  their  lives — ^but  it  was  surely  an  awful  time, 
to  be  thus  driven  away  and  left  houseless — a  time  of  suffering 
indeed.  Who  can  tell  the  measure  of  their  sufferings,  in  such  a 
state  of  exile. 

In  1780,  a  party  of  tories  and  Indians,  attacked  the  small  set- 
tlement of  Little  Falls,  for  the  purpose  of  destroying  the  mills. — 
These  they  burned,  killed  one  man,  and  took  off  five  or  six 
prisoners. 

It  was  my  happiness,  to  have  had  the  advantage  of  being  ac- 
companied along  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  in  the  year  1828,  by 
Mr.  Parrish,  many  years  the  Indian  interpreter  and  agent.  He  had 
been  captured  near  the  Wyoming  settlement,  in  Pennsylvania, 
by  the  Indians,  when  he  was  a  lad  of  eleven  years  of  age,  and  had 
been  led  along  with  the  army  of  predatory  Indians  and  tories, 
who  destroyed  the  settlements  along  the  Mohawk,  in  the  Revolu- 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  75 

tionary  war.  Having  thus  seen,  with  his  own  eyes,  the  things 
then  done,  and  being  seven  years  a  captive,  he  was  quaUfied  to 
give  abundant  information,  of  all  the  things  then  passing  under 
our  notice,  in  travelling  on  as  far  as  Canandaigua,  where  he  re- 
sided. He  of  course  confirmed  many  of  the  things  written  in 
these  pages,  and  also  pointed  out  to  me  the  big  stone  housej  where 
Gen.  Herkimer  once  lived.  He  spoke  five  Indian  languages — 
was  given  up  at  Fort  Stanwix  to  his  liberty — was  afterwards,  for 
thirty  years,  interpreter, — and  has  left  a  fortune  honourably  at- 
tained. He  was  a  fine  looking,  large  man,  of  gentle  manners  and 
disposition.  He  had  a  ready  manner  of  imitating  all  the  Indian 
manners  and  ways.  He  died  in  the  year  1836,  and  in  the  same 
year,  died  Mr.  Jones,  another  interpreter,  and  Indian  captive, 
from  Pennsylvania — a  man  much  valued  and  esteemed.  How 
they  all  vanish  from  the  things  that  be! 

The  Col.  Willett,  who  was  conspicuous  in  relieving  Gen.  Herki- 
mer's regiment,  assaulted  in  the  battle  of  Oriskany,  lived  to  be 
quite  an  oracle  and  chronicle,  concerning  the  Indian  wars  along 
the  Mohawk,  he  having  died  in  New  York,  in  the  summer  of 
1830 — say  on  the  22d  of  August,  the  anniversary  of  his  battle 
with  Maj.  Ross,  and  Col.  Butler,  aged  90  years.  It  was  particu- 
larly remarkable,  concerning  him,  that  the  coffin  in  which  he  was 
interred,  was  made  of  pieces  of  wood,  collected  by  himself,  many 
years  before,  from  difierent  revolutionary  battle  grounds.  The 
corpse,  in  compliance  with  a  written  request  of  the  deceased,  was 
habited  in  a  complete  suit  of  ancient  citizen's  apparel,  including 
an  old-fashioned  three-cornered  hat.  Several  thousand  persons 
passed  through  the  house,  for  the  purpose  of  viewing  the  remains. 
Thus  he  that  was  wondered  at  in  life,  was  also  wondered  at  in 
death ! 

FORT    SCHUYLER    AT    ROME. 

This  post  constituted,  at  the  time,  the  most  advanced  military 
position  inland,  and  was  at  the  head  of  the  Mohawk  navigation. 
The  fort  was  erected  in  1776,  by  Col.  Dayton,  at  the  place  now 
called  Rome,  upon  the  foundation  of  old  Fort  Stanwix,  began 
in  1759,  by  General  Broadstreet.  At  this  time  the  old  Fort  Schuy- 
ler, once  at  the  place  now  Utica,  was  gone  down,  and  out  of  use 
since  the  time  of  the  French  wars.  The  new  fort,  was  at  the 
proper  carrying  place,  between  that  river  and  Wood  creek, 
whence  the  boats  made  their  passage,  to  Oswego,  and  the  lake. 

While  the  British  were  advancing,  under  Burgoyne,  towards 
Albany  with  the  intention  to  open  the  communication,  by  the 
Hudson  river,  to  New  York,  other  expeditions  were  meditating, 
for  the  purposes  of  diversion  and  revenge,  to  operate  along  the 
line  of  the  Mohawk. 

Col.  Claus,  in  Canada,  (who  had  gone  from  Johnstown,  as  a 


76  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

tory  chief,)  was  using  his  best  exertions,  to  engage  the  assistance 
of  all  the  Indians,  endeavouring  to  persuade  them,  that  with 
their  assistance,  he  should  be  fully  able  to  capture  new  Fort 
Schuyler.  This  intimation  gave  rise  to  the  appointment,  of  Col. 
Gansevoort,  in  April,  1777,  with  the  third  regiment  to  that  post. 
The  command  of  thcBritish  force,  was  given  to  Gen.  St.  Leger, 
who  intended,  after  conquering  that  post,  to  pass  down  the  Mo- 
hawk, and  fortify  himself  at  Johnstown ;  he  arrived  before  the 
place,  with  1700  men,  via  Oswego,  in  August,  and  soon  after 
began  his  operations.  In  the  mean  time.  Gen.  Herkimer,  a  native 
of  the  country,  was  approaching  with  his  militia  relief  These 
were  assailed  on  the  way,  at  Oriskany,  at  a  ravine  a  few  miles 
from  the  fort,  by  Col.  Butler,  commanding  the  tories,  and  Col. 
Brant,  the  Indian  chief,  commanding  the  Indians;  and  being 
taken  by  surprise,  they  were  of  course,  greatly  cut  up  and  dis- 
persed, and  their  commander.  Gen.  Herkimer,  slain.  In  that 
bloody  conflict,  there  was  found  the  Indian,  and  the  white  man, 
born  on  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk,  lying  side  by  side,  in  the 
embrace  of  death.  The  militia  fought  with  great  desperation, 
and  sold  their  lives  in  the  sternest  courage,  fighting  hand  to  hand 
to  the  last.  During  the  deadly  strife,  Col.  Willett,  of  glorious 
memory,  sallied  from  the  fort,  with  two  hundred  men,  and  gave 
such  effective  aid,  as  effectually  dispersed  the  assailants.  The 
siege  under  St.  Leger,  was  continued,  during  three  weeks,  when, 
upon  the  approach  of  Gen.  Arnold,  with  a  rehef  of  nine  hundred 
light  troops,  the  British  retreated,  in  precipitation  and  confusion. 
Facts  stated,  by  Doctor  Younglove,  who  was  made  a  prisoner  at 
this  time,  showed,  that  the  Indians  inflicted  terrible  barbarities 
upon  the  prisoners  taken.  He  left  a  long  poem,  descriptive  of 
his  own  and  their  sufferings,  to  wit  : 

"  There  throug'h  the  grove  their  flaming  fires  arise, 
And  loud  resound  the  torfur^d  pris'ners'  cries ; 
Still  as  their  pangs  are  more  or  less  extreme 
The  bitter  groan  is  heard,  or  sudden  scream." 

Numerous  were  the  families  along  the  Mohawk,  who  survived 
to  lament  the  loss  of  relatives,  of  husbands  and  brothers,  in  the 
terrible  fight  of  Oriskany.  Gen.  Herkimer  was  in  fault,  to  have 
allowed  himself  to  have  been  surprised ;  but  he  redeemed  his 
imprudence,  by  his  courage.  Early  in  the  battle,  which  was 
waged  for  nearly  five  hours,  the  general  had  his  leg  fractured  by 
a  musket  ball ;  he  sat  upon  a  stone,  giving  his  orders  to  the  last; 
mortification  ensued  from  his  wound,  and  he  died  in  a  few  days. 
A  monument,  to  cost  five  hundred  dollars,  was  ordered  by  Con- 
gress to  his  merriory,  but  to  this  day,  it  has  not  been  fulfilled  ! 
Will  not  the  rich  inhabitants,  now  along  the  Mohawk,  think  of 
this,  and  show  their  patriotic  feelings,  by  yet  effecting  it  ?  The 
aged  Col.  Frey,  till  lately  alive,  at  Canajoharie,  was  among  the 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  77 

prisoners  taken  and  spared,  and  had  survived  to  see  the  same 
regions  blest  with  plenty  and  repose.  How  he  must  have  won- 
dered, to  compare  the  present  with  the  past ! 

We  learn  from  Mrs.  Grant,  in  her  interesting  memoirs,  some- 
what of  the  importance  attached  to  the  line  of  military  posts, 
placed  along  the  Mohawk,  and  intended  to  preserve  an  open 
communication,  for  military  supplies  going  from  Albany,  to 
Oswego  and  the  lakes.  They  were  erected  as  early  as  the  French 
wars.  Some  of  the  engineers,  she  says,  were  Swedes ;  possessed 
of  polished  manners  and  minds,  and  whom  she  often  met,  as 
guests,  at  the  house  of  the  Schuyler  family,  at  the  Fiats,  above 
Albany. 

About  the  year  1761,  Mrs.  Grant,  when  a  child  of  seven  years 
of  age,  was  started,  with  her  mother,  in  a  military  expedition 
(her  father  being  a  British  officer,)  to  go  by  the  Mohawk  and 
fFood  creek,  to  reach  the  far  distant  post  of  Oswego.  As  they 
were  probably  the  Jirst  females,  above  the  very  lowest  ranks, 
who  had  then  penetrated  so  far  into  the  remote  wilderness,  it  may 
aiford  some  interest  now,  to  notice  some  of  the  facts  and  occur- 
rences in  the  case.  Her  child-like  mind  was  delighted  with  the 
expectation  of  seeing  wonders, — such  as  new' woods,  new  rivers, 
and  new  animals,  every  day.  Their  military  company  were 
conveyed  in  six  batteaux.  The  second  day  they  arrived  at  Fort 
Hendrick,  the  home  of  king  Hendrick,  now  called  Canajoharie. 
The  toil  of  lifting  the  boats  from  place  to  place,  and  of  cutting  off 
fallen  trees,  lying  across  Wood  creek,  requiring  three  days  to 
get  along  only  fourteen  miles,  was  all  full  of  interest  and  fun  to 
her.  The  whole  scenery  was  dark,  thick  woods.  There  she 
saw  remains  of  beaver  dams,  and  numerous  black  and  grey  squir- 
rels were  mingling  with  her,  in  disputing  for  nuts,  profusely 
scattered  on  the  ground.  At  the  nights  they  made  great  fires  on 
the  ground,  both  to  cook,  and  to  scare  away  the  wolves  and 
bears,  and  also  to  cause  any  wandering  Indians  to  believe  they 
were  a  great  body,  by  their  many  fires.  They  set  fire  to  their 
cedar  brush,  for  starting  them  into  flame,  by  trains  of  gunpow- 
der. At  one  place  there  seemed  to  be  a  general  congress  of 
wolves,  howling  all  night,  in  dreadful  chorus.  Oswego,  then, 
was  wholly  wild,  and  a  real  Siberia  in  the  winter  ;  but  abounded 
with  fish  and  fowl,  and  the  woods  then  were  thick,  lofty,  and 
interminable.  The  present  writer,  when  he  made  a  tour  by  the 
military  road  from  Oswego  to  Rome,  even  as  late  as  1828,  found 
it  then,  the  very  wildest  region  of  New  York,  and  the  most  occu- 
pied with  the  rough  and  rude  mud  and  mire  bridges,  popularly 
called  Cord  du  roy,  being  logs  laid  tranverse  of  the  road,  in  all 
boggy  and  wet  places.  There  were  wolves  and  bears  still  to  be 
occasionally  killed  there. 

Mrs.  Grant  remarks,  that  expert  woodmen,  in  her  time,  could 

G  2 


7S  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

go  through  deep  woods  without  guide  or  compass.  They  could 
tell  the  north  side  of  timber,  by  its  being  invariably  thicker  in  its 
bark ;  and  was  also  covered  with  most  moss  on  that  side.  They 
knew  also,  the  quality  of  the  soil,  by  the  trees  or  plants  most 
prevalent.  They  could  tell  the  approach  of  a  swamp,  and  with 
equal  certainty,  could  foresee  the  vicinity  of  a  river  or  high 
ground.  Where  grew  the  red  oaks,  marked  a  soil  of  loam  and 
sand;  and  where  chesnut  trees  abounded,  with  strawberries, 
there  would  be  the  best  place  for  wheat  culture.  Where  the 
poplar  grew,  there  the  soil  would  be  wet  and  cold.  Where  grew 
hickory,  there  the  soil  would  be  rich,  and  deep,  and  there  was  the 
best  places  to  procure  the  plants  with  which  the  Indians  made 
their  dyes  of  blue  and  orange.  All  the  country  boys  were  then 
possessed  of  such  useful  woodland  knowledge.  It  was  long  a  mat- 
ter of  frontier  knowledge,  that  the  leaves  of  the  white  ash  tree, 
when  bound  about  the  legs  and  ancles,  was  a  protection  against 
rattlesnakes  and  other  venomous  serpents.  They  are  made"  sense- 
less by  the  touch  of  a  branch  from  such  a  tree,  besides  this,  the 
wearing  of  loose  leggings  was  a  purposed  guard  against  their 
bites.     Hogs  readily  devour  serpents  without  harm. 

Judge  Joshua  Stow,  of  Middletown,  Conn.,  who  was  the  first 
pioneer  into  Ohio — bordering  on  the  Erie  lake,  did  me  the 
favour,  in  1839, — in  the  seventy-eighth  year  of  his  age,  to  furnish 
me  with  a  brief  description  of  his  progress  inland,  up  the  Mo- 
hawk. He  and  his  party  set  out  in  the  month  of  May  1796,  for 
the  benefit  of  the  Connecticut  Land  Company,  owning  the  "West- 
ern reserve"  in  Ohio.  The  company  consisted  of  five  surveyors 
and  a  physician,  and  sundry  ch-ain  and  axe  men — in  all  fourteen 
persons.  They  started  for  Schenectady  in  four  flat  bottomed 
boats,  of  three  tons  each,  having  on  board  a  quantity  of  freight  for 
Indians  to  be  met  at  Buffalo,  in  a  treaty,  besides  their  camp 
utensils,  provisions,  &c.  Their  progress  was  slow  and  arduous 
up  the  Mohawk ;  when  arrived  at  Fort  Stanwix,  they  lost  a  man 
by  falling  overboard  and  drowning.  They  here  used  a  portage 
of  a  mile  and  a  half,  hauling  the  boats  and  goods,  by  teams,  over 
to  Wood  creek,  and  went  thence  by  it  to  Lake  Oneida,  and 
Oswego  river,  out  to  Lake  Ontario,  and  thence  onward  by  the 
Lakes.  Their  rejoicings  were  extreme  when  they  reached  the 
Ontario,  and  had  got  thus  far  beyond  their  fatigue,  and  into  so 
broad  an  expanse  of  waters.  On  the  fourth  of  July  1796,  the 
party,  to  their  great  joy,  first  set  their  feet  on  the  virgin  soil  of 
Ohio,  at  Conneaut, — where  they  did  not  fail  to  celebrate  the  twen- 
tieth year  of  our  national  independence.  In  the  year  1839,  he 
visited  the  same  regions,  in  good  health,  and  was  received  by  the 
citizens  of  Cleveland,  and  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Western 
Reserve,  as  an  honoured  patriarch.  But  the  great  interest,  intend- 
ed to  be  noticed  here,  is,  that  such  an  individual,  in  his  own  person, 


Early  Inland  Settlemenls.  79 

should  live  to  revisit,  such  distant  regions,  so  utterly  changed, 
from  their  first  appearance — being  all  since  improved,  throughout 
the  whole  route,  like  enchantment. 

In  the  year  1768,  there  was  held  at  Fort  Stanwix  (Rome)  a 
great  convention  of  Indians  to  treat  and  to  settle  affairs;  they 
were  met,  to  the  number  of  three  thousand,  by  Sir  William  John- 
son, and  by  Governor  John  Penn,  and  his  secretary,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Peters,  and  Benjamin  Chew,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,  and  others ; 
on  that  secular  occasion,  Mr.  Peters  preached  to  the  Indians,  and 
baptized  sundry  Indians. 

In  further  illustration  of  the  rapid  progress  of  the  country,  as 
redeemed  from  its  recent  savage  state,  we  here  purpose  to 
notice,  a  few  facts  of  the  wild  and  ferocious  animals  occasionally 
found  in  what  are  to  be  considered  as  improved  and  settled  dis- 
tricts— to  wit  : 

In  1759,  an  act  was  passed  for  destroying  tvild  cats,  in  the 
county  of  Suffolk,  also  an  act  to  destroy  wolves,  in  the  county  of 
Albany. 

In  January  1754,  a  large  bear,  seventeen  miles  west  of  Scho- 
harie, encountered  a  squaw  and  her  child,  in  the  woods,  and 
killed  them  both.  After  nearly  eating  them  up,  he  was  killed 
by  a  passing  Indian. 

In  January  1S2S,  a  party  of  hunters  in  the  Warwick  mountains, 
(seventy  miles  north  of  New  York)  trailed  a  bear  to  a  cave 
there  ;  after  using  the  usual  method  of  trying  to  smoke  him  out, 
without  avail,  they  sent  in  their  dogs,  which  were  driven  out, 
they  then  blasted  the  rock  so  as  to  admit  the  passage  of  a  man, 
when  one  John  Ward,  entered  with  a  torch  and  made  his  shot  at 
him,  and  having  missed,  he  returned,  and  again  entered,  and  shot 
him  in  the  fore  legs.  The  bear  advanced,  and  drove  him  out. 
Ward  entered  again,  and  shot  him  in  the  eye.  The  bear  again 
made  at  him,  and  he  retreated,  and  gaining  a  rifle,  shot  the  bear 
just  as  he  was  making  his  escape.  He  measured  six  feet  from 
the  nose  to  the  end  of  the  tail,  and  weighed  three  hundred  and 
thirteen  pounds.  As  late  as  the  years  1815,  to  1820,  the  State 
treasury  expended  thirty-eight  thousand  two-hundred  and  sixty 
dollars,  for  killing  wolves,  in  thirty-seven  of  the  western  counties. 

In  April,  1833,  we  had  a  remarkable  exemplification  of  the 
presence  of  wolves,  even  in  a  settled  country,  like  the  northern 
end  of  New  Jersey,  say  at  Byram  township,  in  Newtown,  only 
about  fifty  miles  from  New  York  City !  There,  Adam  Drake 
received  three-hundred  and  sixty  dollars,  for  one  day's  work  in 
kiUing  and  capturing  wolves !  The  case  was  indeed  singular. 
He  had  been  led  out,  from  the  bowlings,  to  go  in  search.  He 
found  their  lair  in  the  rocks — two  old  ones  and  nine  young  ones. 
For  these  nine  he  received  five  dollars  a  head  from  the  county, 
five  dollars  also  from  the  township  of  Byram,  and  thirty  dollars 
also  from  the  township  of  Green,  of  which  Drake  was  an  inliabi- 


8b  Earvy  Inland  Settlements. 

tant.  The  old  ones  were  shot  at,  but  escaped,  the  young  ones 
only  were  killed. 

It  may  be  worthy  of  special  remark,  to  notice  some  of  the 
monstrous  trees,  which  have  been  particularly  noticed  for  their 
size — to  wit:  in  Genesvsee,  in  Mr.  Wadsworth's  meadow,  is  an 
oak  of  twenty-four  feet  in  circumference.  Near  the  mouth  of 
the  Walnut  creek  is  a  black  walnut  tree,  of  twenty-seven  feet  in 
circumference,  and  is  very  high.  In  Reading,  is  a  white  oak  of 
seventeen  and  a  half  feet  in  girth.  In  Mentz,  there  is  a  hollow 
buttonwood  tree  of  thirty-three  feet  round,  wherein  Mr.  Smith 
preached  to  thirty-five  persons,  and  which  could  have  held  fifty 
persons.  Its  diameter  was  seventeen  feet.  In  Oswego  there  is 
another,  which  is  thirty-five  and  a  half  feet  in  circumference.  A 
sycamore  tree,  which  grew  on  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk,  re- 
quired thirty-one  yoke  of  oxen  to  remove  the  trunk,  after  it  was 
cut  down.  It  had  been  occupied  as  a  booth,  or  tavern,  near 
Utica,  for  two  years,  and  is  capable  of  holding  forty  persons. 
A  similiar  one,  from  New  York  state,  was  exhibited  in  Phila- 
delphia as  a  show.  At  Salina,  a  tree  measures  forty-eight  feet 
round.* 

In  1760,  an  officer,  who  had  gone  from  Schenectady  to  Ontario 
in  the  month  of  June,  thus  describes  the  difficulties  of  the  water 
passage,  saying,  "  We  embarked  in  our  boats  on  the  24th  June, 
and  reached  the  lake  on  the  24th  July,  continuing  their  progress 
all  the  time ;  the  navigation  was  bad  in  the  Mohawk,  causing  us 
often  to  get  our  batteaux  over  shoals,  by  main  strength.  The 
passage  by  Wood  creek,  was  still  worse,  causing  us  eight  days  of 
hard  work  in  that  creek  of  but  forty  miles." 

The  first  regular  settlement  of  Rome,  was  by  emigrants  from 
New  England,  and  much  expectation  was  then  entertained  of  its 
increase  and  future  greatness,  as  occupying  the  position  of  the 
carrying  place  between  the  waters  of  the  Mohawk  and  Wood 
creek,  leading  to  the  Lakes.  The  fort  was  at  first  built  ,with 
great  cost — said  to  have  been  two  hundred  and  sixty-six  thousand 
dollars.  It  was  a  square  fort,  with  four  bastions,  with  a  covert 
way  and  glacis. 

*  Probably,  the  biggest  tree  in  the  United  States  of  the  Oak  kind,  is  that  of  a 
Red  Oak  eighteen  miles  from  Natchitoches,  on  the  road  to  Apelousas,  which 
measures  forty-four  feet  in  girth,  at  two  foot  from  the  ground,  and  is  sixty  feet 
high  to  its  branches.  There  is  an  apple  tree,  still  bearing,  at  Marshfield,  Mas- 
sachusetts, which  was  planted  by  Peregrine  White,  the y?rs<  maZc  person  born  in 
New  England.  The  house  built  by  the  same  individual  is  still  standing,  probably 
the  oldest  edifice  in  our  country.  What  is  still  stranger,  is,  that  the  house  and 
farm  is  still  owned  and  occupied  by  the  lineal  descendants  of  the  same  P.  White  ! 
In  Danvers,  Massachusetts,  there  is  a  pear  tree,  still  alive,  planted  by  George 
Endicott,  in  1628.  In  Eastham,  on  Cape  Cod,  is  another,  planted  in  1640,  by 
Gov.  Prince.  Two  pear  trees  are  still  living  at  Hartford,  Connecticut,  brought 
out  from  England  and  planted  in  1633.  The  pear  tree  brought  out  from  Hol- 
land, and  planted  by  Gov.  Stuyvesant,  on  his  farm,  is  now  bearing  in  New  York 
City, 


« 


7  ^ 


Nieu  Amsterdam  in  1659,  p    146. 


Log  Cottage  and  Block  House  of  Inland  Settlers,  p.  104. 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  81 


GENERAL  VIEWS  OF  NEW  YORK — INLAND,    BEYOND  UTICA. 

The  recent  and  rapid  progress  of  inland  settlement  in  Western 
New  York  is,  and  ever  must  be,  a  matter  of  interest  and  wonder, 
to  many.  We  therefore  desire  to  present  a  condensed  view  of 
the  facts  in  the  case ;  several  of  which  we  have  derived  from 
Henry  O'Reilly,  Esq.,  of  Rochester,  assisted  by  Maude's  Notices 
of  1800.  Mr.  O'Reilly  is  a  gentleman  who  has  been  a  commend- 
able observer  of  inland  improvement ;  and  is  therefore  peculiarly 
qualified  to  be  a  useful  contributor,  to  wit : 

The  principal  tracts  into  which  Western  New  York  was  earliest 
divided,  were  the  Holland  Purchase,  the  Pulteney  Estate,  and  the 
Military  tract.  The  lands  in  all  these  tracts  are  generally  sold 
and  occupied,  although  some  minor  tracts,  bought  from  the  Hol- 
land company,  by  associations,  are  still  but  sparsely  settled.  The 
public  improvements,  by  canals  and  railroads,  will,  however, 
soon  leave  but  little  land  unimproved,  in  the  southern  tier  of  the 
western  counties,  wherein  those  still  wild  tracts  are  chiefly  located. 

The  Pulteney  Estate,  is  of  good  size  and  immense  value— com- 
prising nearly  all  of  Steuben  and  Ontario  counties,  the  east  range 
of  townships  in  Alleghany  county,  and  the  east  and  principal 
parts  of  the  counties  of  Livingston  and  Munroe.  To  the  intelli- 
gent and  industrious  agent,  Capt.  Charles  Williamson,  the  meed 
of  praise  is  due  for  the  stimulus  to  useful  improvement.  Capt. 
Williamson  began  his  enterprise  in  1792,  forcing  his  passage 
through  a  length  of  wilderness,  which  the  oldest  and  most  ex- 
perienced woodmen  could  not  be  tempted  to  assist  him  to  explore, 
although  ofiered  five  times  the  usual  wages ;  his  only  companions 
were  his  friend,  Mr.  Johnstone,  a  servant,  and  one  backwoods- 
man. The  same  year,  there  was  laid  out  the  town  of  Bath, 
which  came  in  eight  years  afterwards,  to  contain  about  forty  fam- 
ilies. It  was  not  until  1795,  that  the  country  could  supply  its 
inhabitants  with  food  ;  for,  till  then,  their  flour  was  brought  from 
Northumberland,  and  their  pork  from  Philadelphia;  yet,  so 
rapidly  has  improvement  advanced,  and  so  quick  has  been  the 
change,  from  the  dark-tangled  forest,  (whose  death-like  silence 
yielded  but  to  the  growl  of  bears,  the  howl  of  wolves,  and  the 
yell  of  savages,)  to  smiling  fields,  to  flocks  and  herds,  and  to  the 
busy  hum  of  men,  that  instead  of  being  indebted  to  others  for 
their  support,  they  soon  came  to  the  profitable  condition  of 
making  large  exportations  of  their  surplus. 

On  the  first  settlement  of  the  country  around  Bath,  those  moun- 
tainous districts  were  so  little  regarded,  in  comparison  with  the 
rich  flats,  of  the  Genessee  country,  that  few  of  the  early  settlers 
could  be  prevailed  upon  to  establish  themselves  there,  till  Capt. 
Williamson  set  the  example,  and  saying,  "  as  nature  has  done  so 
much  for  the  northern  plains,  I  will  be  doing  something  for  these 
11 


82  Early  Inland  Settlements, 

southern  mountains."  Capt.  Williamson  made  his  beginning  in 
Bath,  by  building  himself  a  small  log  cabin  for  his  wife  and 
family  ;  and  if  a  stranger  came  to  visit  him,  he  built  up  a  little 
nook  to  put  his  bed  in.  In  a  little  time,  a  boarded  or  frame  house 
was  built  for  the  Captain.  His  subsequent  residence,  is  a  very 
commodious,  roomy  house,  situate  to  the  right  of  where  he  had 
placed  his  first  cabin, — since,  consigned  to  the  kitchen  fire.  In  a 
few  years,  Williamson's  mills  were  constructed  nearby,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  population  on  Conhocton  creek. 

To  the  same  Capt.  Williamson,  we  are  indebted,  for  the  choice 
and  beautiful  site  of  Geneva,  diX.  the  northwest  end  of  Seneca  lake. 
He,  charmed  with  the  peculiar  beauty  of  the  elevated  plain 
which  there  commands  so  fine  a  view  of  the  very  picturesque 
lake,  began  to  lay  out  his  building  lots  for  a  town,  parallel  with, 
and  facing  the  lake,  and  with  conditions,  that  no  buildings  should 
be  erected  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  street,  so  as  ever  to  obstruct 
the  view  of  the  lake.  To  give  encouragement  to  this  settlement, 
he  built  a  very  large  and  handsome  hotel,  which  he  placed  under 
the  management  of  Mr.  Powell,  an  Englishman. 

In  1792,  Geneva  did  not  contain  more  than  three  or  four  fam- 
ilies; and  in  1800,  there  was  an  accession  of  sixty  families. 
Among  the  respectable  families,  then  there,  were  Messrs.  Colt, 
Johnstone,  Hallet,  Rees,  Bogert,  and  Beckman ;  three  of  these 
were  lawyers.  There  were  also  two  physicians,  two  storekeep- 
ers, and  one  or  two  of  several  kinds  of  tradesmen.  A  hatter 
there,  then  made  hats  entirely  of  beaver,  at  ten  dollars. 

Canandaigua,  near  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  had  in  1792, 
but  two  frame  houses,  and  a  few  log  cabins,  and  soon  advanced  -. 
in  population ;  say  in  1800,  to  ninety  families.  This  town,  by  "^ 
the  inconsideration  of  the  first  settlers,  was  placed,  unlike  Geneva, 
at  a  little  distance  from  its  beautiful  lake,  and  has  so  lost  forever, 
all  the  charm  which  its  superior  water  scenery  could  have 
afforded.  Its  earliest  principal  inhabitants  were,  Thomas  Mor- 
ris, Esq.,  Judge  Atwater,  and  Messrs.  Phelps  and  Gorham;  the 
two  last,  great  land-holders  in  the  vicinity. 

Rochester,  was  begun  by  the  purchase,  by  Capt.  Williamson, 
of  the  one  hundred  acre  "  Allen  mill-lot,"  where  he  had  intended 
to  construct  a  much  larger  mill  than  had  been  used  by  "  Indian 
Allen  ;"  but  after  holding  the  site  a  couple  of  years,  he  sold  out 
in  1802,  at  seventeen  and  a  half  dollars  per  acre,  to  Roches- 
ter, Carroll,  and  Fitzhugh  (Marylanders),  who  in  1812,  laid  out 
their  purchase,  in  a  village  plot,  under  the  name  of  the  senior 
proprietor,  Rochester. 

At  the  Big  Spring,  two  miles  from  the  Scotch  settlement  of 
Caledonia,  Capt.  Williamson  laid  out  a  town  in  acre  lots,  where 
only  two  families  were  resident  in  1800;  while  at  Caledonia, 
there  were  then  eighteen  families.  These  settlers  purchased  their 
lands  at  three  dollars  per  acre,  and  received  as  an  allurement  to 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  83 

settle,  the  gift  of  a  cow  to  each  family,  and  a  supply  of  wheat 
for  the  first  year,  to  be  repaid  in  kind.  At  the  same  time  the  pur- 
chase money  was  deferred  for  five  years,  and  without  interest. 
With  such  generous  terms  to  settlement  and  improvement,  in  so 
fine  a  country,  how  easy  was  it  to  increase  in  substance  and 
wealth ! 

A  few  persons  had  penetrated  northward,  between  Avon  and 
Lake  Ontario,  as  early  as  1788-90.  These  were,  Israel  and 
Simon  Stone,  who  settled  in  what  is  now  Pittsford.  They  were 
followed  by  Glover  Perrin,  who  settled  in  the  place  which  since 
bears  the  name  of  Perrinton ;  and  by  Peter  Schaeffer,  who  located 
on  the  flats  of  the  Genessee,  near  to  the  present  flourishing  town 
of  Scottsville,  at  Allen's  creek,  a  stream  named  after  "  Indian 
Allen,"  who  had  resided  there  before  his  use  of  his  first  mill,  at 
the  present  Rochester. 

Mr.  Orange  Stone  settled  at  the  place  now  called  Brighton,  in 
1790,  and  in  1791,  Wm.  Hincher  took  residence  in  the  woods, 
about  the  junction  of  the  river  with  Lake  Ontario.  These  two 
individuals  lived  twelve  miles  apart ;  and  were  for  several  years 
without  any  intervening  neighbour.  Nevertheless,  such  was  the 
mind  of  Hincher, that  he  looked  with  jealousy  upon  newcomers, 
as  those  who  might  disturb  the  privileges  of  his  lonely  "  neigh- 
bourhood !" 

Of  Schaefier,  it  was  remarked  by  Maude,  who  visited  him  in 
his  lonely  sovereignty,  in  1800,  that  this  individual,  as  "  a  respect- 
able farmer,"  was  then  living  in  his  new  boarded  house,  the 
only  one  of  that  kind,  then  between  the  present  Avon,  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Genessee  river,  twenty-five  miles  distant.  Schaefier 
was  the  oldest  settler,  "  Indian  Allen"  excepted,  then  on  the 
Genessee  river.  When  Schaeffer  first  settled  on  this  river,  about 
the  year  1788,  there  were  not  more  than  four  or  five  families 
between  him  and  Fort  Schuyler,  (the  present  Utica,)  a  distance 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

The  Genessee  landing  (now  Hanford's,)  was  settled  in  1796, 
some  years  before  the  village  of  Rochester  was  projected ;  being 
first  occupied  by  Zadoc  Granger,  and  Gideon  King.  The  late 
Governor  De  Witt  Clinton,  on  his  western  tour  in  1810,  made  a 
short  stop  at  this  landing,  at  the  then  only  public  house,  kept  by 
Mr.  Hanford,  who  was  at  the  same  time,  carrying  on  considerable 
of  trade  with  Canada,  as  a  merchant.  Much  business  was  then 
doing  with  Montreal,  having  in  six  months  sent  there,  from  that 
landing,  one  thousand  barrels  of  flour,  one  thousand  of  pork,  one 
thousand  of  potash,  and  upwards  of  one  hundred  thousand  of 
staves. 

The  first  impulse  to  forming  a  town  at  Rochester,  was  caused 
by  the  public  necessity  of  constructing  a  bridge  across  the  Gen- 
essee river,  some  twenty  miles  below  the  earlier  bridge  at  Avon. 
To  the  success  of  this  measure  Mr.  Enos  Stone,  (the  same  who 


84  Early  Inland  Settlements, 

killed  in  1811,  in  his  cornfield  in  Rochester,  the  largest  bear  ever 
seen,)  and  who  is  still  alive  to  witness  the  wonderful  advance- 
ment of  the  place,  was  earnestly  devoted,  by  his  attendance  on  the 
legislature.  He  had  visited  the  place  from  his  home  in  Massa- 
chusetts, in  1794,  but  did  not  come  to  reside  till  1807-8.  Among 
the  obstacles  and  demurs  which  he  had  to  encounter,  before  the 
legislature  at  Albany,  it  was  alleged,  that  there  was  then  nothing 
to  justify  such  an  expense  for  an  additional  bridge.  "  It  is, 
(said  one  of  the  speakers,)  a  God-forsaken  place  !  inhabited  by 
muskrats,  visited  only  by  straggling  trappers,  through  which 
neither  man  nor  beast  could  gallop  without  fear  of  starvation,  or 
fever'  and  ague  .'"  Such  was  the  stigma  cast  upon  Rochester, 
before  it  had  a  name,  and  by  which  its  subsequent  improvement 
would  have  been  repressed,  had  a  majority  of  the  legislators  been 
of  equal  hostility  and  distrust.  Now,  what  do  opponents  and  the 
public  behold ;  a  superior  city,  raised  as  by  enchantment !  A 
considerable  portion  of  the  site  then,  was  marshy,  now  no  longer 
such,  and  subject,  as  will  hereafter  be  noticed,  like  the  rest  of  the 
Genessee  country,  to  fever  and  agues,  since  dispelled.  The 
bridge  was  begun  in  1810  and  finished  in  1812,  at  an  expense  of 
twelve  thousand  dollars,  which  was  taxed  upon  the  soliciting 
counties  of  Ontario  and  Genessee.  The  river  had  been  previously 
forded,  on  the  rocky  bottom,  near  the  present  canal  aqueduct. 
Before  the  erection  of  the  bridge,  accidents  would  occasionally 
happen,  to  those  who  attempted  to  ford  while  a  freshet  was  flow- 
ing. In  the  spring  of  1812,  a  farmer,  with  his  team  and  wagon, 
were  destroyed  by  being  swept  over  the  falls  of  one  hundred  feet, 
near  by ;  the  same  place  at  which  "  Sam  Patch"  of  notoriety, 
afterwards  jumped  into  eternity,  and  '^no  mistake,"  while  demon- 
strating his  favorite  diving  maxim  that,  "  some  things  can  be  done 
as  well  as  others." 

At  the  time  of  the  first  settlements,  there  were  numerous  fam- 
ilies of  Indians  scattered  around  this  place.  Hot-bread,  Tommy- 
Jemmy,  Capt.  Thompson,  Blackbird,  and  other  red  men  of  note, 
spent  part  of  their  time  there  ;  and,  as  late  as  1813,  one  of  the 
great  pagan  festivals,  (the  sacrifice  of  the  dog,)  was  solemnized 
publicly  at  the  rising  ground  where  now  the  Bethel  church  stands. 
Then  the  swamps  back  of  the  Mansion-house,  were  filled  with 
rabbits,  partridges,  and  other  game,  and  deer  might  be  seen 
almost  any  day,  by  watching  at  the  Deer-lick,  where  is  now  the 
horticultural  establishment  of  Reynolds  and  Bateham. 

When  John  Q.  Adams  was  visiting  Western  New  York,  in 
the  summer  of  1843,  he  so  cordially  expressed  views  and  feelings, 
such  as  I  have  been  endeavouring  to  inculcate  in  sundry  places, 
in  these  pages,  that  I  will  not  repress  the  desire  I  feel  to  connect 
some  few  of  his  remarks,  so  kindred  with  my  own.  "  He  regrets, 
deeply  regrets,  that  he  had  not  earlier  visited  those  regions,  so 
that  he  might  have  been  better  qualified  thereby  to  contrast  the 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  85 

present,  with  what  it  was  !  Then,  all  was  covered  with  forests, 
inhabited  by  wild  beasts.  Upon  the  lakes  was  no  commerce, 
and  they  had  no  neighbours  with  whom  to  traffic.  All  was  soli- 
tude;— now  made  by  their  fathers  into  a  paradise  !"  "In  travel- 
ling through  the  state,  it  has  been  impossible  for  him  to  forego 
a  constant  comparison,  with  what  New  York  was  in  other  days, 
and  what  it  is  now:^^ — "  For  (says  he,)  when  I  first  set  foot  on 
New  York  soil,  in  1785,  the  present  great  city  of  the  Empire 
State,  had  but  eighteen  thousand  inhabitants,  and  while  he  tar- 
ried at  John  Jay's,  that  gentleman  was  laying  the  foundation  of 
a  house  in  Broadway,  at  a  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
any  other  dwelling .'"  Such  are  the  men  who  are  best  qualified 
to  see  the  contrast  of  the  times,  and  to  wonder  at  the  enchant- 
ment by  which  towns  and  villages,  and  rural  beauties  and  im- 
provements, are  created. 

Think  too,  that  twenty  thousand  persons  should  have  been 
collected  at  Rochester,  in  1843,  to  celebrate  the  annual  gathering 
of  the  Agricultural  Society,  and  at  thai;  assemblage,  there  should 
have  been  present  from  Canandaigua,  Mr.  Abner  Barlow,  in 
the  ninety-second  year  of  his  age,  who,  in  his  own  person,  was 
the  farmer  who  sowed  the  first  field  of  wheat  in  Western  New 
York  !  To  be  too,  at  a  city  now,  which  makes  more  flour  than 
any  other  city  in  the  world  ! 

The  earliest  notice  of  roads  and  bridges,  may  be  briefly 
summed  up  as  follows,  viz: 

In  1792,  the  road  from  Geneva  to  Canandaigua  was  only  an 
Indian  path,  and  on  this  road,  as  told  by  Capt.  AVilliamson,  there 
were  only  two  families,  then  settled.  Then  Canandaigua,  the 
county  town,  consisted  of  only  two  small  frame  houses,  and  a 
few  cabins,  surrounded  by  thick  woods.  From  Canandaigua  to 
the  Genessee  river,  at  Avon — twenty-six  miles,  only  four  families 
resided  on  the  road. 

Patrick  Campbell,  who  travelled  westward  in  1792,  says  that 
the  whole  distance,  from  the  Onondaga  Hollow  to  Cayuga,  was 
in  forests ;  and  that  in  Marcellus  township,  he  met  with  only  one 
house,  and  two  newly  erected  huts. 

On  the  22d  of  March,  1794,  three  commissioners  were  appoint- 
ed, for  laying  out  a  road,  from  old  Fort  Schuyler  (the  present 
Utica),  to  the  Cayuga  ferry,  in  Onondago  county,  or  to  the  outlet 
of  Cayuga  lake,  as  they  might  choose ;  thence  to  Canandaigua  ; 
and  thence  to  the  settlement  at  Canawagus  (now  Avon),  on 
Genessee  river. 

The  road  from  Fort  Schuyler  (Utica),  to  the  Genessee,  which 
in  1797,  was  little  better  than  an  Indian  path,  is  stated  by  Capt. 
Williamson,  as  being  in  1799,  "so  far  improved,"  that  a  stage 
started  from  Fort  Schuyler,  in  September,  to  arrive  at  Geneva  on 
the  third  day,  with  four  passengers.     Soon  as  this  line  of  road 

H 


86  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

was  settled  by  law,  as  many  as  fifty  families  settled  along  it,  in 
the  space  of  four  months.  In  the  winter  of  1797,  two  stages  ran 
from  Geneva  and  Canandaigua,  to  Albany,  weekly. 

Cayuga  bridge,  the  longest  in  America,  was  commenced  by  the 
Manhattan  Company  of  New  Yorkj  in  1799,  and  finished  in 
September  1 800 ;  being  in  length  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  with  a 
width  for  three  wagons  abreast.  The  water  which  there  rests 
on  the  lake  is  so  clear  as  to  permit  you,  when  riding  over  the 
bridge,  to  see  the  sporting  fish,  and  the  stony  and  sandy  bottom. 
It  is,  also,  a  glorious  sight  to  look  out  upon  the  surface  of  the 
extended  lake. 

In  1815,  Samuel  Hildreth  began  to  run  a  stage,  and  to  carry 
the  mail,  twice  a  week,  between  Canandaigua  and  Rochester,  a 
distance  of  twenty-eight  miles  ;  and  in  the  same  year,  a  private 
weekly  mail  route  was  established,  between  Rochester  and 
Lewistown. 

The  directions  given  to  travellers,  about  the  period  of  1798, 
may  present  a  curious  contrast  to  the  contents  of  the  "  travellers' 
guides,^'  as  now  published.  Capt.  Williamson,  in  a  note  to 
Maude's  travels,  then  said  : — "  You  are  to  proceed  from  Geneva, 
by  the  state  road,  to  the  Genessee  river,  which  you  will  cross  at 
New  Hartford  (now  Avon),  at  west  of  which  you  will  find  the 
country  settled  for  about  twelve  miles  ;  and  all  beyond,  for  sixty- 
five  miles,  to  the  Niagara  river,  is  still  in  its  primitive  wilderness 
state.  This  road,  says  he,  was  so  much  used  last  year  (in  1797), 
by  people  on  business,  or  by  the  curiosity  of  some  visiting  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  (now  so  well  understood,  by  many,)  that  a 
station  was  fixed  at  the  Big  Plains,  to  shelter  travellers. 
From  that  place,  diverged  two  roads,  leading  to  the  same  Niagara 
river  :  one  by  Buffalo  creek,  the  other  by  Tonawanda  Indian 
village,  to  Lewistown  landing  and  Queenstown,  in  Canada.  The 
road  by  Buffalo  creek  is  most  used,  as  it  is  better,  and  commands 
a  view  of  Lake  Erie;  and  the  road  from  this  to  the  Falls,  is  along 
the  banks  of  the  Niagara  river,  forming  in  itself  a  very  interest- 
ing ride.  Then  Queenstown  contained  from  twenty  to  thirty 
houses.  Lewistown  then  had  but  two  houses ;  one  of  which 
was  the  ferry-house,  used  as  the  proper  landing,  and  as  a  portage 
place,  for  Fort  Schlosser." 

Delightfully  pleasant  and  healthy  as  we  now  know  that  West- 
ern New  York  is,  we  cannot  but  feel  some  interest,  in  looking 
back  upon  its  proverbial  unhealthiness  ;  and  especially  upon  the 
terror  of  its  climate,  as  once  entertained,  of  "the  sickly  Genessee." 

On  the  7th  June,  1792,  says  Dr.  Coventry,  I  arrived  with  my 
family  at  my  first  residence  near  the  village  of  Geneva.  The 
seasons  of  1793-94  were  very  sickly  in  the  Genessee  country. 
He  remembered  a  time  in  the  village  of  Geneva,  when  there  was 
only  a  single  individual  who  could  leave  her  bed,  and  she  went 
about,  like  a  ministering  angel,  bestowing  a  drink  of  cold  water 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  87 

to  the  afflicted.  The  diseases  were  occasional  dysenteries,  and 
many  fevers.  In  the  summer  of  1796,  he  settled  at  Utica,  and 
found  dysentery  prevalent  there. 

Dr.  Ludlow,  speaking  of  the  period  of  1801,  says  the  diseases 
of  the  spring  and  summer  were  principally  intermittent  fevers, 
partaking  of  the  tertian  type,  attended  with  violent  inflammatory 
action.  None  were  exempt.  In  September  and  October,  remit- 
tents of  a  mild  form  appeared,  which  continued  through  Novem- 
ber, growing  more  severe  as  the  season  advanced.  All  fevers, 
except  fever  and  ague,  were  called  by  the  people  '^  Lake  or 
Genessee  fevers.''^  Diarrhoea  was  the  prevailing  disease  of  the 
spring.  Goitre,  or  chronic  inflammation  of  the  thyroid  gland,  then 
common,  has  since  wholly  disappeared.  At  that  time  and  sub- 
sequent, phthisis  pulmonalis  was  scarcely  known ;  and  it  has 
been  supposed,  that  it  was  occasioned  by  the  prevalence  of 
fever  and  ague,  on  the  principle  mentioned  as  early  as  Hippo- 
crates, that  intermittents  have  the  power  of  removing  other 
diseases.  So  he  found  it  in  his  practice,  through  several  years, 
among  the  early  settlers.  Time  has  since  removed  the  decom- 
posing vegetable  matter,  and  man  has  graded,  drained  and  paved 
the  road.  Since  1828,  fevers  have  so  declined,  and  become  so 
mild,  that  death  from  that  cause,  has  been  but  a  rare  occurrence. 
Since  then,  consumption,  that  king  of  terrors,  has  been  gaining 
an  ascendency ;  and  inland  New  York,  like  other  and  older 
countries,  has  become  subject  to  the  invasion,  and  consequent 
mortality. 

The  name  of  the  "Genessee  country,"  says  Dr.  Ludlow,  was 
strongly  associated  with  ideas  of  sickness  and  death.  Notwith- 
standing the  glowing  descriptions  of  the  beauty  and  fertility  of  the 
land,  given  by  the  early  pioneers  of  "  Western  New  York," 
those  who  remained  at  home,  especially  in  New  England,  could 
scarcely  divest  themselves  of  a  feeling  of  gloom,  in  contemplating 
the  dangers  incident  to  health  and  life  in  the  early  stages  of  the 
settlement  westward.  It  seemed  to  most  of  them  that,  after  all, 
this  western  region  was  but  a  "  valley  of  bones,"  a  premature 
burying-place,  for  those  loved  friends  and  relations  who  were 
tempted  to  settle  in  this  newly  opening  territory.  And  truly,  like 
all  new,  level,  and  rich  countries,  abounding  in  vegetation,  it 
was  subject  largely  to  the  diseases  of  similar  districts,  the  severe 
forms  of  intermittent  and  remittent  fevers,  cholera  morbus,  &c. 

Th^  lands,  generally  described  in  the  forgoing  notices,  were 
severally  acquired  from  the  Indians,  at  various  periods,  as  here- 
after severally  mentioned,  viz. 

In  1785,  the  Oneida  and  Tuscarora  tribes,  at  a  treaty  held  at 
Fort  Herkimer,  sold  a  portion  of  their  territory  for  eleven  thou- 
sand five  hundred  dollars,  being  for  the  land  lying  between  the 
Unadilla  and  Chenango  rivers;  and  in  1788  the  Oneidas,  at  a 


88  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

treaty  held  at  Fort  Stanwix,  ceded  all  their  lands  excepting  a 
few  reservations. 

In  1788,  the  Onondagas,  at  a  treaty  held  at  Fort  Schuyler, 
sold  all  their  territory  to  the  state  of  New  York,  excepting  a 
reservation  around  their  village.  The  price  was  one  thousand 
crowns,  and  two  hundred  pounds  in  clothing,  and  an  annuity  for- 
ever, of  five  hundred  dollars. 

The  same  year,  the  Oneidas  ceded  all  the  remainder  of  their 
lands,  for  the  consideration  of  two  thousand  dollars  hi  money,  two 
thousand  dollars  in  clothing,  one  thousand  dollars  in  provisions ; 
and  an  annuity  of  six  hundred  dollars  forever. 

The  Cayugas,  hy  their  treaty  at  Albany,  in  1789,  ceded  all 
their  lands,  in  consideration  of  two  thousand  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  dollars,  and  an  annuity  of  five  hundred  dollars  for- 
ever. Other  similar  purchases  were  made  from  the  Six  Nations, 
the  Senecas,  and  Mohawks,  at  subsequent  periods.  Generally, 
"  the  poor  Indians,"  reserved  to  themselves,  but  uselessly,  the 
rights  to  fishing  and  hunting,  forever,  on  the  lands  so  alienated. 
Thus  evincing  in  their  last  extremities,  a  fond  hope  of  being 
allowed  to  linger  about  and  use,  their  loved  homes.  Poor  things, 
they  have  long  since  waked  from  that  drekm-of  hope!  The 
hunting  and  fishing,  themselves,  are  gone  !  and  population  and 
improvement,  have  crowded  out  the  former  owners  of  the  soil, 
never  to  return  !     "  The  star  of  Empire  urges  west.^^ 

In  travelling  westward  from  Schenectady,  along  the  Mohawk, 
and  out  to  Niagara,  as  the  writer  did,  in  1828,  purposely  to 
"  note  and  observe,"  it  was  matter  of  wonderment  to  the  author, 
that  he  should  then  see  a  country,  so  new  and  young,  every  where 
so  wealthy  in  pleasant  and  stately  houses  and  villages,  and  so 
highly  cultivated  in  the  fields  of  the  prosperous  farmers.  All 
this  too,  wrought  out  in  the  short  period  elapsing  since  the  termi- 
nation of  the  Revolutionary  war. 

It  was  also  much  to  his  satisfaction,  in  going  at  that  time  to  the 
Niagara  as  a  looker  on,  to  still  find  the  country  beyond  Utica  just 
in  its  act  of  transit,  from  the  wild  to  the  cultivated  state.  The 
fields  of  grain  and  grass  were  still  well  spotted  with  black  and 
charred  stum.ps,  looking  like  black  bears  set  upon  their  haunches, 
and  like  himself,  upon  the  qui  vive  for  adventure,  showing  there- 
by, the  places  of  the  recent  woods,  burned  away,  to  make  "  the 
clearings,"  and  settlement.  Every  now  and  then  we  came  to 
neatly  finished  dwellings,  and  often  to  those  that  were  elegant, 
set  along  side  of  the  still  remaining  log  houses,  from  which  the 
owners  had  but  recently  removed — the  log  houses,  in  the  mean- 
time, serving  either  for  kitchens  or  outhouses,  thus  denoting  to 
the  eye,  the  advancement  to  wealth  and  consequence  of  their 
owners.  Except  for  the  presence  of  the  log  houses  and  log  barns, 
every  thing  looked  new  and  bright  and  cheerful.     The  villages. 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  89 

which  were  frequent,  showed  good  new  mansions — fine  churches 
— fine  hotels  and  stores,  in  a  style  of  grandeur  and  prosperity. 
Withal,  the  style  of  architecture  was  very  often,  peculiarly  origi- 
nal and  pleasing,  as  if  the  constructors  had  gone  far  away  from 
imitation,  and  from  the  despotism  of  fashion  prevaiUng  in  uniform 
sameness,  in  the  cities,  and  had  set  up  for  independent  inventors 
of  new  modes  for  themselves. 

Those  who  had  gone  before  us,  but  only  one  dozen  of  short 
years,  had  seen  the  same  regions,  in  their  rough  and  rude  state. 
The  roads  and  accommodations  had  been  proverbially  rough, 
even  as  recent  as  the  last  border  war,  and  costing  for  the  trans- 
portation of  the  necessaries  and  munitions  of  war  to  the  frontiers, 
most  exorbitant  prices.  The  inhabitants  then,  were  busily  strug- 
gling to  free  themselves  from  the  wild  encumbrances  of  the  soil 
— but  now  all  was  nearly  over,  and  the  happy  occupants  were 
reposing  on  the  fruits  and  productions  of  their  previous  toil. 
And  here  it  behoves  us  to  remark,  that  those  who  shall  come 
after  us,  even  in  a  few  years,  shall  see  few  or  none  of  these  things, 
to  move  their  special  wonders.  We  regret  to  be  obliged  to  say 
this  to  the  wonder-seekers,  but  it  will  he  so.  They  must  go  soon, 
or  all  the  road  will  be  artificially  modernized  by  continuous  cities 
and  villages,  with  finished  roads,  like  matters  of  every  day  obser- 
vation at  home.  The  first  scenes  are  fading  and  passing  away, 
even  while  we  are  writing — soon  they  will  be  absolutely  gone. 
The  same  places  will  look  to  the  travellers,  as  if  they  had  always 
been  settled,  as  if  always  improved  and  wealthy — such  a  change 
to  better,  will  be  all  the  worse  to  those  who  may  seek  for  surprise 
and  sensation.  And  it  is  to  preserve  the  recollection  of  things  as 
they  were,  and  to  enable  the  beholder  to  compare  the  present 
and  the  past,  that  we  feel  ourselves  excited  to  make  these  records 
and  notitia.  We  know  that  they  cannot  see  with  our  eyes,  nor 
feel  with  our  emotions,  unless  aided  by  such  assistance. 

Was  not  wild  nature  in  that  elder  time 

Clothed  with  a  deeper  power?     Earth's  wandering  race, 

Exploring  realms  of  solitude  sublime, 

Nut  as  we  see  beheld  her  awful  face. 

Jri  had  not  tamed  the  mighty  scenes  which  met 

Their  searching  eyes  ;  unpeopled  kingdoms  lay 

In  savage  pomp  before  them — all  was  yet 

Silent  and  vast — untrodden,  voiceless,  lone. 

Only  nineteen  years  preceding  our  journey,  a  friend  of  ours 
had  gone  in  the  Jirst  gig  that  had  reached  Niagara,  and  although 
it  was  drawn  by  two  horses  tandem,  he  was  a  whole  day  in 
going  over  a  route  of  sixteen  miles,  much  filled  with  "  Cord  du 
roy"  logs.  At  Niagara,  the  only  public  inn,  was  still  a  log 
house.  At  the  Falls  they  had  no  artificial  steps,  for  descent  to 
the  gulf  below.  Iris  Island,  was  not  then  accessible,  and  there 
was  no  house  of  entertainment  on  the  British  side,  and  none 
nearer  than  Chippewa,  two  or  three  miles  ofi". 

12  H* 


90  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

We  may  appropriately  add,  in  connection  with  such  facts,  that 
in  our  early  life,  we  had  had  frequent  intercourse  with  American 
officers,  coming  from  Fort  Schlosser,  and  the  military  stations 
along  the  Niagara  river,  doing  all  their  journey  slowly  and 
fatiguing] y  on  horse-back,  with  their  bear-skin  saddle  cloths,  and 
strapped  valises,  and  always  in  enough  of  their  uniform,  to  mark 
their  character,  and  to  bespeak,  as  they  could,  some  extra  atten- 
tion on  the  road.  And  it  was  a  fact,  that  so  little  had  the  public 
attention  been  called  and  stimulated  to  any  of  the  present  wonder- 
ments of  the  Falls,  that  the  officers  scarcely  ever  deigned  to  speak 
of  them,  in  their  ordinary  conversations.  It  conferred  no  mark 
of  distinction  to  have  seen  them,  and  none  of  them  ever  published 
any  account  of  their  travels. 

We  have  since  made  ourselves  to  wonder,  by  indulging  in 
fervid  imaginations,  by  painting  poetic  descriptions,  and  stimu- 
lating our  fancies,  until  the  multitude  of  pleasure-seekers,  and 
picturesque-searchers,  fill  the  country  with  their  explorations. 
The  stage  owners,  hotel  keepers,  store-keepers,  and  farmers,  find 
their  harvest  in  this,  and  through  the  aid  of  the  newspaper  press, 
keep  up  the  measure  of  florid  report  and  excitement,  and  those 
who  seek  sensation,  pursue  the  path  of  those  who  come  home 
and  boast  of  marvels  seen  and  done,  by  themselves.  We  may 
know  how  far  much  of  this  is  artificially  produced,  by  the  fact 
of  our  special  movings,  in  reading  page  after  page,  and  book  after 
book,  of  places  sacred  to  character,  poetry,  and  history,  in  Eng- 
land, when  at  the  same  time,  our  own  disregarded,  and  of  course, 
quiet  American  scenes  of  wood,  lake,  and  mountain,  go  far  before 
theirs  in  greatness,  and  in  the  sublime  of  nature.  We  may  quote 
our  warrant  for  this  assertion  in  their  own  publications,  and  in 
saying,  with  a  recent  British  publication,  that  "America  certainly 
surpasses  every  other  country  in  richness  of  the  picturesque — 
every  mile  upon  the  rivers — every  hollow  in  the  landscape — every 
turn  in  the  innumerable  mountain  streams,  arrest  the  painter's  eye, 
and  here  his  labour  is  not,  as  in  Europe,  to  embellish  and  idealize 
the  reality,  but  he  finds  it  difficult  to  come  up  to  it."  In  Europe, 
we  connect  every  thing  with  its  historical  or  poetical  associations, 
and  thus  magnify  their  intrinsic  value.  There  all  is  engrossed  in 
the  consideration  and  recollection  of  the  past,  while  here  we  em- 
phatically hang  all  our  interests  and  feelings,  upon  the  future. 

It  might  justly  surprise  many,  who  only  see  the  marks  of  civili- 
zation and  improvement,  along  the  usual  roads,  to  learn  that 
there  is  still  a  region  in  this  state,  in  all  the  wildness  of  nature, 
covered  with  woods,  to  an  extent  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
long,  and  one  hundred  miles  wide.  Such  a  tract,  in  one  connec- 
tion, now  lies  between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake  Champlain, 
and  between  the  Mohawk  and  the  Hudson.  It  is  filled  with  lofty 
mountains,  on  whose  tops  the  clouds  gather  and  pour  down  their 
rains,  and  scatter  their  snows,  so  that  large  reservoirs  are  neces- 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  91 

sary,  to  hold  their  superabundant  waters.  To  this  end,  the  wise 
and  beneficent  Creator,  has  hollowed  out  a  number  of  large  and 
beautiful  lakes,  interspersed  with  little  islands,  where  the  rivers 
find  their  feeders,  and  their  supply  for  the  country  through  which 
they  pass  to  the  ocean.  On  the  margins  of  these  lakes,  reside  a 
few  families,  wholly  cut  off  from  the  world,  who  hold  no  sab- 
baths, hear  no  church-going  bells,  and  who  live  chiefly  by  hunt- 
ing and  fishing.  Some  such  families  make  their  way  to  the  towns, 
to  purchase  and  to  barter,  by  footpaths  of  forty  to  fifty  miles  in 
extent,  and  when  they  have  grain  to  grind,  carry  it  on  their 
backs.  Such  mountaineers  dwell  in  little  huts,  covered  with  bark, 
and  at  their  boat  exercises  on  the  lakes,  some  of  which  are  twenty 
and  thirty  miles  in  length,  and  of  proportionate  breadth,  the  girls 
and  women  are  often  as  expert  and  efficient  as  the  men.  To  see 
such  a  state  of  society,  so  wholly  cut  off  from  the  modes  and 
forms  of  civilization,  or  even  from  missionary  labour,  might  be 
worth  the  attention  of  travellers,  in  the  search  of  novelty  and 
surprise. 

In  conclusion,  if  the  travelUng  of  the  "  northern  tour,^'  is  des- 
tined measurably  to  exhaust  itself  by  its  own  frequency  and 
familiarity  of  wear  and  tear,  our  travelling  cits  and  their  appur- 
tenances of  marvelling  dames  and  belles,  must  betake  themselves 
contentedly  and  passively,  (as  summer  heat  requires,)  to  the  sea- 
shore, where  the  ever  restless  sea,  is  still  unchanged,  and  where 
it  offers  in  itself,  a  glorious  emblem,  and  a  profitable  study,  of  the 
enduring  eternity  and  self-possessed  duration,  of  the  great  Eternal 
himself 

New  York  inland,  has  been  essentially  indebted  to  New  Eng- 
land, for  its  intelUgent  and  enterprising  population.  Judge  White, 
from  Middletown,  Conn.,  began  the  first  settlement  in  and  near 
Whitestown  and  Utica,  and  Oliver  Phelps  offered  allurements  for 
Massachusetts  men  for  Canandaigua  and  westward.  In  a  word, 
the  Yankees,  so  called,  have  been  almost  every  thing  for  western 
New  York,  and  well  the  state  may  glory  in  "  the  universal  Yan- 
kee nation."  It  will  not  be  inappropriate,  in  this  connection,  to 
set  down  in  some  extension,  the  chief  characteristics  of  such  a 
people,  much  of  which  we  have  found  drawn  to  our  hand,  by 
the  forcible  pen  of  Willis. 

The  character  of  the  Yankees  has  influenced,  and  continues  to 
influence  that  of  every  part  of  the  nation,  and  their  name,  from  a 
provincial  designation,  (probably  derived  from  Yengees,  the 
Indian  name  for  English,)  has  become,  among  foreigners,  the 
popular  appellation  of  the  whole  people.  Such  is  the  predomi- 
nance of  their  character  and  civilization,  that  the  other  states  are 
becoming  like  the  Yankees,  while  the  Yankees  are  keeping  like 
themselves.  It  is  in  New  England,  that  you  find  most  original, 
operative,  and  distinctly  marked  American  character.  There 
should  the  traveller  and  observer,  begin  and  end  his  tour;  for 


92  Early  Inland  Settlements. 

whoever  leaves  the  Yankees  out  of  his  "  United  States  as  they 
are/'  will  find  he  has  left  Hamlet  out  of  Hamlet's  tragedy. 

It  is  in  New  England,  that  you  will  find  Jonathan  at  home. 
In  the  other  states  there  is  mixture,  greater  or  less,  of  foreign 
population ;  but  in  New  England,  the  population  is  homogeneous 
and  native — the  emigrant  does  not  choose  to  settle  there.  It  is 
no  lubber  land,  there  is  no  getting  half  a  dollar  a  day  for  sleeping, 
in  Connecticut,  Massachusetts,  or  Vermont.  In  the  west,  he 
may  scratch  the  ground,  throw  in  the  seed,  and  leave  the  rest  to 
nature. 

Cape  Cod,  which  is  but  a  heap  of  sand,  yet  maintains  thirty 
thousand  people,  and  there  is  not  a  beggar  among  them.  All  the 
tariffs  that  could  be  devised,  never  would  ruin  in  New  England, 
were  they  framed  ex  propria  motu  of  Georgia  and  South  Carolina. 
While  the  Yankees  are  themselves,  they  will  hold  their  own,  let 
politics  twist  about  as  they  will.  Shut  their  industry  out  from 
one  career,  and  it  will  force  itself  into  another.  They  have  a 
perseverance,  that  will  never  languish,  while  any  thing  remains 
to  be  tried,  and  when  a  Yankee  says  "I'll  try,"  the  thing  is 
done. 

In  European  countries,  he  that  is  born  a  peasant,  will  be  a 
peasant  all  his  life.  But  on  beholding  the  most  rustical  clown 
of  all  Yankee  land,  it  would  not  be  safe  to  affirm  that  he  would 
not  be  numbered,  at  some  future  day,  among  the  most  eminent 
men  of  the  country.  There  is  no  burying  a  man  of  genius  here ; 
the  humblest  birth  shuts  out  no  one,  either  from  'the  hopes  or  the 
facilities  of  rising  to  that  station  for  which  his  native  talent  has 
qualified  him.  Rare  indeed,  is  it  to  find  an  individual  who  cannot 
read  and  write.  Every  one  has  therefore  that  modicum  of  know- 
ledge placed  within  his  reach,  which  will  enable  him  to  obtain 
more,  should  his  wishes  aspire.  Clowns,  properly  speaking,  there 
are  none,  among  the  Yankees ;  a  Yankee  is  emphatically  a  civil 
man,  though  his  civility  may  not  produce  bows  and  grimaces, 
and  unmeaning  compliments — he  may  be  too  direct  for  all  this. 

A  stirring  spirit,  stirring  deeds,  a  stirring  life,  form  the  common 
theme  of  his  praise.  He  puts  every  man  upon  his  usefulness.  If 
a  man  be  called  good  in  his  presence,  then  comes  the  question, 
Good  for  what  ?  But  with  this  predominant  inclination  towards 
the  useful,  the  Yankee  is  no  despiser  of  those  arts  which  adorn 
and  embellish  life.  The  liberal  sciences  and  the  fine  arts,  have  no 
where  in  the  country  received  such  encouragement,  as  in  New 
England.  The  cities,  the  towns,  the  villages,  the  country  seats, 
the  private  dwellings,  display  more  elegance  and  taste  than  those 
of  any  other  part  of  the  Union.  No  wonder  then,  if  the  western 
part  of  New  York,  should  largely  partake  of  the  liberal  charac- 
teristic of  their  fatherland.  It  shows  the  Yankee  spirit  every 
where. 

The  Yankees,  too,  are  distinguished  above  all  other  men,  for  a- 


Early  Inland  Settlements.  93 

• 

certain  capacity,  which  is  called  contrivance,  a  faculty  which  ena-  ,y 
bles  an  individual  to  turn  his  hand  to  any  occupation,  or  to  devise  '  *"  A^*. 
a  scheme  for  any  sudden  emergency.  A  Yankee  farmer,  is  a  sort 
of  Jack  of  all  trades,  he  not  only  delves  the  soil,  and  goes  to  mar- 
ket, but  he  is  a  carpenter,  shoemaker,  weaver,  cooper,  soap-boiler, 
and  more  trades  than  these.  He  turns  wooden  bowls,  makes 
buckets,  sets  up  shooks,  weaves  baskets,  manufactures  brooms, 
and  invents  various  kinds  of  washing  machines.  It  is  a  Yankee's 
main  study,  to  be  "  improving"  every  thing ;  his  very  language 
breathes  this  spirit,  for  among  them,  he  who  occupies  a  house,  is 
said  to  "improve  it."  The  patent  office  at  Washington,  is  so  loaded 
with  Yankee  inventions,  as  to  prove  that  they  would,  if  they 
could,  improve  and  help  the  whole  nation.  Dr.  Lardner,  in  his 
lectures  in  this  country,  volunteered  his  testimony,  to  this  charac- 
teristic, by  saying,  "  this  fact  is  what  strikes  the  attention  of  every 
intelligent  stranger,  coming  from  Europe.  More  novelties  in 
mechanics  and  general  science  have  been  presented  to  me,  (says 
he)  in  this  country,  within  twelve  months,  than  I  have  seen  in 
twelve  years  in  England."  God  grant  us  ever  a  full  measure  of 
Yankee  blood,  and  Yankee  influence,  every  where. 

From  such  "  improvers,"  comes  the  verification  of  Campbell's 
poetic  prediction : 

"  Thy  handmaid  arts,  shall  every  wild  explore. 
Trace  every  wave,  and  culture  every  shore; 
On  Erie's  banks,  where  tigers  steal  along. 
And  the  dread  Indian  chants  his  dismal  song. 
There,  shall  the  flocks  on  thy  green  pastures  stray, 
And  shepherds  dance  at  summer's  closing  day." 

Latrobe  instances  the  quickness  and  facilities  of  making  settle- 
ments which  he  had  witnessed.  An  individual  bought  three  hun- 
dred acres  of  new  land,  at  one  and  a  quarter  dollars  an  acre.  He 
went  to  his  work  in  April,  and  by  the  latter  end  of  May,  he  had 
girdled  ten  acres  of  his  forest  trees — burned  the  brush- wood,  and 
slightly  broke  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  planted  it  with  one 
bushel  and  a  half  of  Indian  corn.  In  September  of  that  year,  his 
crop  was  five  hundred  bushels ;  at  the  same  time,  the  tops  and 
leaves  were  equal  to  one  thousand  bundles,— being  sufficient  to 
winter  fifteen  head  of  cattle,  which  had  before  found  their  suffi- 
cient supply  by  browsing  in  the  woods.  Besides  this,  the  same 
land  had  yielded  fifty  wagon  loads  of  pumpkins,  yielding  food 
for  man  and  beast.  No  wonder  if,  with  such  thrift,  the  primitive 
settlers  have  gone  on  to  fortune  and  plenty  ! 

What  are  we  to  think  of  such  a  country,  and  such  a  people, 
but  that  God  has  some  special  purpose,  wherein  to  exemplify  his 
providence  and  will,  in  developing  his  blessings  on  this  new  world, 
and  this  new  demonstration  of  his  favour  to  the  Saxon  race.  To 
that  nation  of  men,  who  have  been  most  sedulous  to  preserve  and 
perpetuate  Christian  institutions.   Those  of  them,  who  outrage  his 


94  tlarly  Inland  Settlements, 

benevolent  laws,  for  selfish  purposes,  are  only  exceptions  to  the 
general  rule,  and  serve  to  show  in  their  personal  aberrations,  how 
gross  may  be  the  violations  of  truth  and  justice,  where  divine 
blessings  are  contemned  or  disregarded.  As  one  has  said,  "  the 
providences  of  God  have  been  so  pecuUar,  and  his  interpositions 
so  frequent,  and  so  manifest,  in  behalf  of  this  people,  that  I  can- 
not doubt  that  he  has  planted  this  vine  for  some  great  and  good 
end,  an  end  which  he  will  see  carried  out  to  its  full  accomplish- 
ment.^' 

A  few  years  ago,  and  it  was  thought  impossible  that  we  could 
extend  our  territory  any  further,  or  add  any  new  stars  to  our  flag, 
and  yet  has  the  feeble  arm  of  a  Republican  government  sur- 
passed all  expectation !  We  have  lived  to  see  a  new  development, 
by  which  our  space  is  annihilated,  and  when  we  have  filled  our 
territory  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  we  shall  be  more  compact,  and 
the  extremes  will  be  nearer  together,  thereby,  than  were  the  ori- 
ginal thirteen  States  !  What  new  resources  and  wonders  are  to 
arise,  who  can  tell  / 

We  have  sometimes  said,  and  still  oftener  thought,  that  such 
facts  as  these  Annals  aim  to  preserve,  should  aflbrd  interest 
abroad,  even  in  Europe  itself,  as  showing  the  early  domestic  and 
homebred  history  of  our  Anglo-Saxon  race,  destined  perchance, 
with  Britain  at  home,  to  anglify,  under  Providence,  the  other 
nations  of  the  globe  !  I  see  some  of  my  thoughts,  lately,  well 
expressed  in  the  London  Christian  Examiner,  to  wit :  — "  Trace 
the  principles  and  institutions  of  the  Pilgrims,  in  their  develop- 
ment, operation,  and  results.  Not  only  ^  the  little  one  has  become 
a  thousand,  and  the  small  one  a  great  one,'  but  those  institutions, 
civil  and  sacred,  have  found  throughout,  a  congenial  soil.  In 
these  stand  the  glory  of  America.  Under  any  other  dynasty 
that  country  could  never  have  risen  to  its  present  position  and 
influence.  Oii  her  present  position  we  must  look  tvith  intense 
interest !  Her  whole  history  is  interwoven  with  the  fate  of 
Europe.  America  holds  no  common  place.  Her  conduct  and 
influence,  in  morals  and  rehgion,  is  in  unison  and  co-operation 
with  that  of  Britain,  and  is  destined  to  change  the  whole  aspect 
of  society  every  where :  The  superstitions  and  errors  of  ages 
are  melting  away.  In  her  future  progress  she  is  destined,  in 
common  with  Britain,  to  carry  along  with  her  the  destiny  of  the 
species.  The  world  is  not  only  to  receive  a  new  language — a 
new  philosophy — a  new  religion,  but  to  take  its  entire  type  and 
impression  from  these  two  nations.  In  moral  power  and  resources, 
America  not  only  rivals,  but  far  exceeds  the  European  states  ; 
England  alone  excepted.  No  force  can  crush  the  sympathy  that 
already  exists,  and  is  continually  augmenting,  between  Europe 
and  the  New  World.  We  are  deeply  interested  in  the  progress 
of  her  power  and  greatness,  for,  she  is  descended  from  ances- 
tors who,  like  the  fathers  of  the  faithful,  for  the  sake  of  truth. 


Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers.  95 

went  to  a  land  which  they  knew  not ;  and  like  the  children  of 
Abraham,  have  truth  in  their  keeping — in  common  with  us,  and 
are  destined  to  carry  it  by  their  commerce,  and  British  principles 
of  civilization,  to  the  end  of  the  earth  !" 

In  the  face  of  such  views,  are  not  Britons  then,  incidentally 
interested  in  examining  those  traces  of  our  domestic  history, 
those  pictures  of  our  rise,  progress,  and  attainment  to  present 
greatness,  as  exhibited  in  the  present  work  ?  Let  them  examine 
and  consider  !  Americans  too,  of  whatever  state,  and  however 
distant  from  Philadelphia,  or  New  York,  have  every  where,  a 
direct  interest,  in  this  our  attempt  to  show  a  picture  of  our  nation, 
in  Colonial  times,  when  we  were  so  homogeneous,  and  all  alike 
— simple  in  manners,  frugal,  honest,  homebred,  contented,  and 
loyal.  My  two  works,  although  specifically  for  those  two  great 
cities  and  their  States,  present  a  picture  of  North  Americans,  in 
general :  Something  for  the  consideration  of  the  whole  American 
people.     Let  us  understand  ourselves  ! 


INLAND  SETTLERS  AND  PIONEERS. 

"  Thus  the  pavilioned  waste  of  oak 
Has  bow'd  beneath  the  woodman's  stroke." 

The  pioneers,  the  primitive  settlers  of  the  inland  wilds,  are  in 
general  a  race  of  men  possessing  little  attention  or  renown,  and 
yet  deserving  our  liveliest  respect  and  gratitude.  In  this  new 
land  they  have  uniformly  been  the  av ant-couriers  of  all  our 
enrichment  and  prosperity.  They  have  gone  forward  into  the 
depths  of  the  forest,  and  by  subduing  and  cultivating  the  soil 
have  made  it  to  bring  forth  abundantly.  By  sending  the  results 
of  their  harvests  back  to  the  parent  cities,  they  have  added  to  our 
wealth  and  commerce. 

When  we  owe  so  much,  on  the  score  of  gratitude,  to  the 
patient  hardihood  of  first  settlers,  we  should  take  some  pains  to 
preserve  some  memorial  of  their  adventures  and  exposures.  We 
have  listened  to  some  of  their  oral  relations  with  lively  interest 
and  emotion ;  and  as  they  have  no  chronicler  to  preserve  their 
little  history,  we  shall  here  endeavour  to  preserve  some  traits. 

We  see  two  or  three  families,  consisting  severally  of  husbands, 
wives,  and  children,  associating,  in  the  year  1790,  in  one  of  the 
towns  of  New  England,  to  form  a  little  community  to  go  into 
the  wilds  of  the  west.  They  had  heard  of  fruitful  soils  and  cheap  ; 
and  having  growing  and  sturdy  working  boys  and  girls  about 
them,  they  resolve  to  go  as  far  as  the  Indian  town  of  Canandai- 
gua ;  or  if  not  there  suited,  to  go  still  further,  to  the  country  of 
the  Genessee  river.     They  sell  out  their  little  immoveable  pro- 


96  Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers. 

perty  for  the  sake  of  the  cash  ;  they  gather  about  them  wagons, 
carts,  farming  utensils ;  reserve  some  of  their  roughest  furniture 
and  of  least  weight  of  carriage  ;  lay  in  their  store  of  salted  and 
smoked  meats ;  procure  baked  biscuits ;  get  Indian  meal  for 
"journey  cakes;"  gather  around  a  whole  stock  of  cows,  pigs, 
sheep,  and  poultry,  not  forgetting  their  house  dog  and  tabby  cat. 
We  skip  over  the  intermediate  space  of  travel,  wherein  they 
could  find  huts  and  cottages  at  which  to  stop  along  their  route, 
to  as  far  as  the  present  Utica,  then  the  place  of  Fort  Schuyler  ; 
from  this  point  the  united  pioneers  enter  into  the  forest.  The 
provisions,  furniture,  and  smallest  children  are  plated  in  the 
wagons  and  set  onward.  The  men,  women,  and  boys  and  girls 
follow  near  by,  driving  in  their  wake  their  bull  and  cows,  pigs 
and  sheep.  Hung  to  the  wagons,  severally,  were  the  poultry 
coops,  containing  ducks,  geese,  and  fowls,  the  intended  parent 
stock  of  the  future  poultry  yard. 

In  their  onward  march  no  road  marks  the  direction  of  their 
way,  but  guided  by  the  "blazing  of  the  trees,"  (surveyor's  marks 
cut  on  the  sides  of  trees  with  a  hatchet,)  or,  when  at  fault,  by 
their  pocket  compass,  they  continue  to  go  on  their  way  westward. 
By  and  by  they  halt  to  rest,  and  to  feed  their  cattle  and  them- 
selves. Their  table,  once  an  ironing  board,  is  set  upon  four  up- 
right stakes  drove  into  the  ground.  Their  seats  are  formed  by 
two  benches.  Biscuits  and  cold  meat  form  their  food.  At  table, 
and  in  their  mutual  intercourse,  they  all  aim  to  cheer  and  encour- 
age each  other  with  hopes  and  designs  of  the  future.  Soon  all 
are  again  set  onward;  water-courses  and  impediments  in  the 
way  occasionally  occur.  Then  the  men  and  boys  are  the  chief 
labourers ;  and  to  manage  their  cattle  and  get  them  over  sloughs, 
&c.  is  their  chief  difficulty.  By  and  by  they  approach  the  Oneida 
settlement  of  Indians,  of  which  they  have  some  forethought  by 
seeing  a  straggling  hunter  or  two,  and  after  a  while  hearing  the 
shouts  and  noisy  rejoicings  of  the  tribe.  At  the  sound,  fears  and 
apprehensions  steal  upon  the  soul.  The  younger  members  of 
the  family  get  closer  to  their  parents  ;  and  the  parents  themselves 
are  not  insensible  to  the  fact,  that  they  have  no  other  security  for 
their  safety  than  the  general  report  of  peace  and  amity.  They 
enter  their  settlement,  are  surrounded,  mutual  wonder  exists, 
civilities  are  interchanged,  and  the  settlers,  not  willing  to  abide 
for  a  night  among  them,  go  beyond  them  and  encamp  for  the 
first  night.  What  a  new  epoch  for  a  family  accustomed  to  civili- 
zation to  sit  down  in  the  gloom  of  the  forest !  They  again  pre- 
pare to  eat  and  to  feed  their  cattle.  The  fire  is  made  for  tea,  and 
for  fresh  journey  cake  baked  before  the  fire.  The  bedding  and 
beds  are  prepared  in  the  wagons.  Watches  are  set  to  take  turns 
through  the  night,  to  preserve  the  cattle  from  straying  and  the 
sheep  from  the  prowling  wolf  When  all  is  prepared  the  whole 
company  surround  their  homely  table,  eat  heartily  and  talk 


Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers.  97 

cheerily.  Some  sing  songs,  some  hymns ;  several  recount  the 
incidents  of  the  day  ;  all  remember  home,  and  talk  of  left  friends 
and  kindred ;  and  some  surmise  the  adventures  before  them. 
They  all  retire  to  rest  in  due  time,  save  the  watch  and  the  dogs. 
The  fatigues  of  the  day  make  many  sleep  soundly ;  and  only 
now  and  then  a  wakeful  ear  hears  the  bark  of  the  fox,  the  distant 
growl  of  the  wolf,  or  the  shriek  of  the  owl.  Soon  as  the  ruddy 
morn  peeps  out  from  the  orient  east,  the  company  is  again  all  in 
action,  preparing  for  their  morning  meal  and  onward  journey. 
In  two  days  more  of  similar  journey  they  reach  the  Indian 
settlement  of  the  Onondagas — Indians  which  they  feared  more 
than  the  former  only  because  they  were  still  more  in  their 
power,  by  being  still  more  remote  from  country  and  friends. 
They  still,  however,  received  civility  and  kindness  in  their  rude 
but  well-meant  attentions.  They  brought  them  some  of  their 
game,  and  this,  with  successful  shooting  of  their  own  among  the 
partridges  and  pheasants  seen  in  their  route,  gave  them  the  means 
of  a  gj;p.nd  repast  of  sylvan  food  for  their  supper.  They  again 
spent  their  night  much  after  the  manner  before-mentioned,  and 
not  far  from  the  ranges  of  those  Indians.  In  a  few  days  they  all 
reach  the  Indian  village  of  Canandaigua,  at  which  place  the  great 
purchaser,  Phelps,  had  preceded  them  for  the  sale  of  his  land. 
In  the  intermediate  space  they  had  had  some  new  adventures; 
they  had  seen  and  shot  several  wild  turkies,  and  one  or  two  of 
the  party  had  surprised  some  deer,  and  succeeded  in  killing  a  couple. 
These  were  so  many  trophies  of  their  woodman  character,  and 
gave  new  life  and  feelings  to  the  whole.  They  had  too  been 
obliged  to  make  many  devious  wanderings  in  search  of  their  way. 
The  route  became  dubious,  and  it  was  only  after  going  off  at 
sundry  diverging  points  that  they  could  feel  any  assurance  that 
they  were  near  the  track  they  should  take.  To  add  to  these 
embarrassments  they  had  encountered  wider  and  deeper  water- 
courses ;  such  as  they  could  not  venture  to  traverse  without  some 
means  to  float  over  some  of  their  articles.  Here  therefore  they 
were  obliged  to  fell  trees  and  construct  rafts  of  timber  on  which 
to  convey  what  was  needed  to  the  opposite  bank.  Once  in  a 
while  they  came  across  a  solitary  hunter.  Savage  as  he  was,  it 
was  a  cheering  sight,  because  he  was  human.  Man  loves  man 
of  every  form  when  found  in  solitude.  Occasionally  they  came 
across  tokens  of  encampment,  known  by  the  signs  of  former  fires, 
the  tramp  of  cattle,  and  the  fragments  of  their  feast.  The  very 
sight  of  such  remains  was  cheering,  and  set  all  the  company  in 
good  humour  and  fine  spirits.  But  when  once  in  a  long  while 
they  could  see  in  the  distance  the  curling  smoke  of  a  log  hut  and 
a  little  clearing,  their  rejoiced  spirits  triumphed  aloud.  It  hardly 
mattered  who  they  were,  the  sight  of  white  faces  were  so  wel- 
come ;  but  if  they  had  also  gentleness  and  goodness  to  recom- 
mend them,  mutual  hospitalities  were  unbounded. 
13  I 


98.  .  Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers. 

At  Canandaigua  one  of  the  families  made  arrangements  to  re- 
main and  settle,  but  the  other  two  families,  allured  to  still  stronger 
hopes  by  more  distant  settlement,  determined  to  keep  on  to  the 
Genessee  river.  To  this  they  were  more  especially  inclined  by 
the  descriptions  and  the  promised  guidance  of  some  friendly  Se^ 
necas.  Taking  leave  of  their  former  companions  and  the  few 
other  white  settlers  found  there,  they  once  more  put  forward  in 
their  former  method  of  march,  and,  under  many  renewed  difficul- 
ties of  going  up  to  the  head  of  streams,  or  having  to  pass  them  by 
slight  bridges  or  rafts,  they  at  length  arrived  at  the  long  sought 
lonely  home,  placed  near  the  banks  of  the  now  beautiful  Genes- 
see.  Here  began  a  new  era  of  toil,  enterprise,  and  skill.  Their 
business  now  was  to  fell  trees  and  cut  their  logs  for  their  future 
dwelling,  and  to  locate  it  near  a  spring.  At  the  same  time  the 
boughs,  in  their  leaf,  were  set  up  pointing  like  the  pitch  of  a  roof, 
to  serve  as  a  temporary  shed  and  shelter  for  sundry  articles  taken 
out  of  the  wagons.  The  log  house  of  one  story  being  constructed 
and  placed  north  and  south  as  their  domestic  sun-dial,  and  covered 
over  with  a  stave  roof;  having  a  wide  chimney  made  of  stones 
and  clay,  into  which  a  log  of  ten  feet  length  could  be  rolled  for 
fuel ;  the  doors  were  left  purposely  so  wide,  that  the  horse  could 
draw  in  the  log  by  a  chain,  and  leaving  his  load,  pass  out  at  the 
opposite  side.  Such  a  house  was  destined  in  time  to  be  a  kitchen, 
when  they  could  construct  a  better  one  adjoining.  In  the  mean 
time  one  great  room  below  with  a  ground  floor,  served  "for 
parlour,  kitchen,  and  hall ;"  and  the  loft  above  made  one  general 
chamber  of  rest,  with  here  and  there  a  coverlid  partition  pendant 
between  the  different  sexes.  Now  the  family  being  housed, 
"  the  clearing,"  of  vital  importance  to  their  future  support  and 
nourishment,  was  set  upon.  Along  the  outer  margin  the  trees 
were  cut  down  and  rolled  inward  towards  the  centre,  so  as  to 
break  the  line  of  communication  with  the  adjacent  woods.  Then 
the  whole  was  set  into  one  general  conflagration,  so  as  to  kill  the 
trees  and  provide  an  opening  for  the  rays  of  the  sun  upon  the 
land.  Smoke  and  the  perils  of  fire  were  endured  as  well  as  they 
could.  When  sufficiently  burnt  out,  the  plough  and  the  hoe 
were  set  into  the  soil  to  prepare  for  planting  corn  and  other  need- 
ful grain.  The  women  too  had  their  concern  to  make  out  their 
little  garden  spot,  where  they  might  set  in  their  garden  seed : 
such  as  sallad,  beans,  peas,  onions,  cabbages,  &c.,  and  their  in- 
tended nursery  of  apple  seeds,  and  peach,  plum  and  cherry  stones ; 
for  in  such  a  state  every  thing  is  to  begin.  As  time  advanced, 
all  these  primary  arrangements  were  enlarged,  and  comforts 
were  increased.  The  men  and  boys  laboured  all  day,  and  at 
night  the  girls  spun  and  the  boys  knit.  Their  evening  hours 
were  talked  down  pleasantly  with  fond  remembrances  of  former 
homes,  and  fond  hopes  of  future  prosperity.  When  Sabbath 
came,  they  united  in  hearing  the  perusal  of  the  family  Bible,  or 


Inland  ScUlcrs  and  Pioneers.  99 

in  reading  family  sermons  ;  and  the  hymn  book  Avas  used  for  its 
remembered  song  of  Zion.  Now  they  had  no  church,  no  merry 
chime  of  bells,  no  pastoral  guardian.  They  felt  this  the  more 
keenly  because  of  its  absence.  Three  families  then  constituted 
the  total  of  all  the  settlers  ;  but  these  were  friendly,  and  mutually 
helpful  when  urgent  occasion  required.  The  Indians  would 
come  occasionally  to  look  on,  saluting  always  with  a  friendly 
"//oA,"  or  good  be  to  you.  Often  deer  were  started,  sometimes 
shot.  Bears  were  sometimes  seen  and  hunted  off.  Smaller 
game  were  always  at  hand  to  shoot,  and  in  the  stream  the  finest 
fish  abounded. 

By  and  by  new  settlers  came  along  in  families  one  by  one. 
They  were  always  warmly  welcomed  and  diligently  assisted  to 
make  their  log  structures.  In  the  spring  and  fall  was  a  period 
of  harvest,  of  honied  sweet  from  the  juice  of  the  rnaple  tree. 
The  sugar  camp,  as  it  was  called,  made  an  occasion  of  cheerful 
gathering,  especially  among  the  children,  who  loved  to  partake 
from  the  sugar  pans.  When  the  winter  came,  the  fall  of  snow 
was  deep  and  lasting ;  abiding  all  the  winter  several  feet  deep, 
and  requirhig  occasionally  the  use  of  snow  shoes.  To  make 
paths  and  roads  in  cases  of  deep  snow,  they  had  to  arrange  their 
cattle  and  drive  them  in  lines  of  two  a-breast  to  the  places  re* 
quired.  They  had  then  no  mills  to  grind  their  grain,  and  made 
use  of  a  wooden  mortar  formed  from  a  hollowed  log  set  on  end, 
to  which  they  applied  a  pestle  attached  to  a  sweep  like  the  pole 
of  a  well.  In  giving  a  domestic  picture  of  such  a  frontier  family, 
we  must  not  forget  to  show  how  the  children  were  sometimes 
employed.  They  had  no  school,  but  they  were  not  idle  ;  they 
had  snares  and  traps  about  in  the  woods,  where  they  often  suc- 
ceeded to  snare  game.  Partridges  and  rabbits  they  so  caught  in 
abundance.  Raspberries,  blackberries,  gooseberries,  and  huckle- 
berries, grew  in  rich  abundance,  and  afforded  them  delightful  re- 
pasts. They  had  squirrels  and  rabbits  which  they  had  tamed. 
The  cat,  too,  was  diligent,  and  often  brought  in  her  captures, 
calling  by  her  known  cry  the  children  around,  and  laying  down 
ground  mice,  squirrels,  &c.  At  one  time  the  boys  found  a  brood 
of  young  raccoons,  which  being  brought  home,  were  all  domesti- 
cated by  good-natured  puss.  By  and  by  their  joy  was  made 
complete  by  the  arrival  of  an  old  soldier  escaped  from  Indian 
captivity,  who  gladly  made  his  home  among  them,  and  used  to 
amuse  their  evenings  by  telling  the  family  circle  of  his  many  hair- 
breadth 'scapes.  He  loved  a  story  and  loved  a  song  ;  and  with 
these  sweetly  he  beguiled  the  hours.  Some  of  his  tales  of  suffer- 
ing captives  among  the  Indians,  were  full  of  pathos  and  interest, 
filling  the  heart  and  extorting  a  tear. 

A  friend  who  has  been  conversant  with  frontier  settlement, 
describes  the  same,  as  being  originally  well  stocked  with  bears, 
wolves,  deer,  and  turkies.     The  flesh  of  the  two  last,  was  not 


100  Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers. 

only  a  luxury,  but  a  necessary  article  of  food.  The  wolf  occa- 
sionally made  great  havoc  among  the  few  sheep — committing 
assaults  at  the  same  time  upon  the  wild  deer.  He  has  been 
known  to  attack  cows.  The  bear  confined  himself  to  hogs,  and 
sundry  instances  are  given  of  his  successful  capture  of  these  from 
their  pens.  He  springs  suddenly  upon  his  victim,  grasps  him  in 
his  arms,  or  fore  legs,  with  great  force,  erects  himself  upon  his 
hind  legs,  like  a  man^  and  makes  off  with  his  load.  The  piercing 
squeal  of  the  distressed  hog  is  the  first  warning  to  the  owner.  In 
such  a  manner,  the  bear  will  make  off  faster  through  a  thick 
wood,  than  a  man  on  foot  can  follow.  The  groans  and  struggles 
of  the  animal  in  his  embrace,  become  weaker  and  weaker,  and 
soon  entirely  cease,  being  literally  hugged  to  death. 

When  a  settler  came  across  any  partly  eaten  animal,  left  by  a 
bear,  he  was  sure  to  set  a  trap  for  him,  which  would  take  him 
within  the  next  twenty-four  hours ;  because  it  was  his  nature  to 
return  to  feed  on  the  remainder,  and  to  show  little  or  no  sagacity 
in  avoiding  the  snare.  For  this  purpose,  a  heavy  steel  trap  was 
used,  with  smooth  jaws,  and  a  long  drag  chain,  with  iron  claAVS 
at  the  extremity.  It  was  not  fastened  to  the  spot,  because  the 
great  strength  of  the  bear,  would  enable  him  to  free  himself,  but 
as  he  ran,  after  being  ensnared,  the  claws  would  catch  upon  the 
brush,  retarding  his  flight,  and  leaving  a  distinct  trail,  by  which 
he  could  be  traced  and  overtaken  in  a  couple  of  miles,  in  a  state 
of  much  exhaustion,  and  killed.  This  was  done,  by  first  allow- 
ing the  dogs  to  test  their  courage  and  dexterity  in  his  assault,  and 
before  the  finale  should  be  produced  by  the  ball  of  the  sure  rifle. 
In  these  battles,  if  the  shackles  were  upon  the  hind  legs,  leaving 
the  fore  paws  free,  there  were  but  few  dogs  who  could  venture 
upon  close  conflict,  a  second  time. 

It  was  occasionally  a  winter  affair,  to  make  a  gathering  of  all 
the  male  population,  far  and  near,  to  make  a  drive,  or  large  hunt, 
for  the  purpose  of  ridding  the  country  of  the  bear  and  wolf.  At 
other  times  it  was  done  upon  a  smaller  scale,  by  fewer  neighbours, 
for  the  purpose  of  capturing  a  few  deer,  and  turkies.  A  drive, 
was  conducted  by  making  a  circuit  of  a  large  tract  of  wild  land, 
placing  the  members  on  the  outer  circle  sufficiently  near,  to  be 
within  calling  distance  of  each  other,  and  then  with  loud  shout- 
ings, and  blowing  of  tin  horns,  proceeding  inward  to  a  common 
centre,  so  as  to  enclose  the  destined  prey.  When  within  half 
a  mile  of  the  centre,  to  know  which  the  trees  had  been  pre- 
viously blazed,  they  called  a  halt,  and  sending  round  a  man  or 
two  on  horseback  to  see  that  all  should  be  equally  prepared,  at 
the  soimd  and  call  of  a  common  assault,  by  rushing  inward  to 
the  centre.  By  this  time  the  herd  of  deer  might  be  seen  occasion- 
ally driving  in  affright  from  one  line  to  the  other.  If  the  drive 
had  been  a  successful  one,  great  numbers  of  turkies  could  be  seen 
flying  among  the  trees,  away  from  the  spot.     Deer  too,  as  the 


Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers.     *  lOt 

circle  was  closing,  could  be  seen  sweeping  round  the  ring,  pant- 
ing and  terrified,  under  an  incessant  fire.  Innocent  and  timid, 
as  seemed  these  leathern  coated,  and  tear  dropping  animals,  when 
so  closely  pressed,  they  sometimes  make  for  the  line  at  full  speed, 
and  if  the  men  there  are  too  numerous  or  resolute  to  give  way, 
they  actually  leap  over  their  heads,  and  over  all  the  stakes',  pitch- 
forks, and  guns  raised  to  oppose  them.  By  a  concert  of  the 
regular  hunters,  gaps  are  sometimes  purposely  made,  to  allow 
them  to  escape,  the  better  to  secure  the  bear  and  the  wolf.  Then 
the  wolf  is  seen  skulking  through  the  bushes,  aiming  to  escape 
observation  by  concealment.  The  bear,  at  the  same  time,  are 
seen  to  dash  through  the  brush,  highly  enraged,  and  going  from 
one  side  of  the  field  to  the  other,  regardless  of  the  bullets  which 
are  playing  upon  them.  After  the  game  is  mostly  killed,  a  few 
good  marksmen  and  dogs  scour  the  ground,  to  stir  up  what  may 
be  concealed  or  wounded.  This  over,  they  all  advance  to  the 
centre  with  a  shout,  dragging  along  the  carcases  which  have 
fallen,  for  the  purpose  of  counting  the  result  of  their  exploit. 
Such  exposing  and  exciting  incidents,  familiar  to  frontier  men, 
have  been  fruitful  in  training  a  high  spirit  of  soldierly  and  military 
prowess.  Wolves  were  taken  in  steel  traps,  but  not  very  readily 
in  that  way.  The  easiest  means  of  their  capture  was  in  log  pens, 
prepared  hke  the  roof  of  a  house,  shelving  inwards  on  all  sides. 
In  this  was  to  be  placed  the  half-devoured  carcass  of  a  sheep, 
upon  which  they  had  previously  feasted.  The  wolf  easily 
clambered  up  the  exterior  side  of  the  log  cabin,  and  entered  at 
the  top,  which  was  left  open  for  that  purpose,  and  being  once 
there,  he  could  neither  escape  nor  throw  it  down. 

Turkies  were  taken  in  square  pens,  made  of  lighter  timber, 
and  covered  at  the  top.  They  entered  at  an  open  door  in  the 
side,  which  was  suspended  by  a  string  that  led  to  a  catch  within. 
This  string  and  catch  were  covered  with  chaff,  which  induced 
them  to  enter,  and  while  engaged  in  scratching  about  the  chaff 
to  get  at  the  grain  therein,  some  one  among  them  would  strike 
the  catch  and  let  the  door  down  behind  them  all.  Another  mode 
of  taking  turkies,  was  to  make  them  pass  in  by  a  very  small  door 
in  which  was  laid  corn  to  entice  them  inward,  and  when  they 
were  in  and  fed,  they  would  look  only  upward  for  a  way  of 
escape,  as  if  seemingly  forgetting  the  way  by  which  they  came. 
Probably  it  is  to  this  cause,  that  the  French,  who  first  received 
turkies  in  Europe,  from  the  French  of  Canada,  have  used  the 
proverb — ^to  be  as  foolish  as  a  turkey — ^^'un  fou  comme  line 
dande^^ — whilst  we  English,  say  of  a  silly  person,  that  he  is  a 
goose — probably,  because  a  goose  will  foolishly  stoop  its  head 
and  \o\\%r  its  neck,  in  passing  under  any  door,  however  high. 

At  length  population  and  improvement  increased.  Pleasant 
villages  and  cottage  clusters  were  seen  in  the  micjst  of  the  wilder- 
ness, and  houses  for  the  worship  of  God,  and  schools  for  the 

I  2 


102  Inland  Settlers  and  Piojieers. 

instruction  of  children,  rose  where,  not  long  before,  the  wild  beast 
had  his  range  or  his  lair.  What  had  begun  as  little  and  lonely 
dwellings, "  few  and  far  between,"  came  in  time  to  be  the  nucleus 
around  which  gathered  other  settlers  and  formed  a  town.  At 
this  early  period  of  adventure  came  out  the  original  settlers, — the 
two  Wadsworths  ;  men  who,  from  the  rough  beginnings  above 
described,  have  come  to  possess  an  estate  now  worth  two  millions 
of  dollars,  having  a  farm  of  meadow  and  upland  of  1700  acres, 
a  flock  of  8,000  sheep,  600  horned  cattle,  and  all  other  things  in 
great  abundance.  What  a  country,  and  what  a  change  in  a  few 
short  years  !"* 

How  changed  the  scene,  since  here  the  savage  trod 
To  set  his  otter-trap,  or  take  wild  honey, 
Where  now  so  many  turn  the  sod. 
Or  farmers  change  their  fields  for  money. 
How  short  the  time,  and  how  the  scenes  have  shifted, 
Since  Wadsworth  explored  this  wild  land, 
^  .    And  mid  primeval  woods,  prophetic  scann'd 
This  rare  position  andits  destiny . 

We  shall  here  add  some  illustrations  of  the  difficulties  of 
Pioneers. 

At  the  first  settlement  of  Binghamton,  at  Chenago  Point,  the 
people  used  to  take  the  root  of  the  anacum  weed,  and  after  dry- 
ing and  grinding  or  pounding  it,  to  make  it  into  their  bread.  At 
the  same  place,  the  woods  were  found  so  clear,  by  the  practice 
of  burning  the  underbrush  by  the  Indians,  that  deer  could  be  seen 
in  them  when  half  a  mile  distant.  Several  of  the  Indians  con- 
tinued to  reside  there  after  the  whites  had  come  to  tl^e  neighbour- 
hood in  1787. 

At  the  Oquago  valley,  when  the  great  freshet  destroyed  the 
crops  of  the  settlers  in  1794,  Major  Stow,  took  his  bushel  of 
wheat  on  his  shoulder,  and  walked  forty  miles,  to  have  it  ground, 
at  Wattle's  mill,  and  returned  with  his  flour  in  the  same  weari- 
some manner.  The  short  cakes  made  from  it  were  shortened 
with  bear's  grease. 

In  the  year  1796,  Mr.  E.  Edwards  built  the  first  saw-mill  on 
the  Onondaga,  and  he  was  also  the  first  that  came  down  the 
Chenango  with  a  raft.  The  first  grist-mill  was  built  a  good 
while  after,  by  Dr.  Wheeler.  Previous  to  this,  the  inhabitants 
went  down  to  Castle  creek  for  their  grinding;  and  in  case  of  fail- 
ure there,  they  were  obliged  to  go  to  Tioga  Point. 

When  the  mile  bridge  across  the  Cayuga  was  begun,  the  shores 

•  As  late  as  the  years  1810-11,  there  was  only  a  weekly  mail  between  Canan- 
daigua  and  Genessee  river;  carried  on  horseback,  and  part  of  the  time  by  a  wo- 
man! 'Twas  only  in  1815  that  the  settlers  about  Rochester  made  up  a  private 
fund  for  a  weekly  mail  to  Lewiston;  and  it  was  but  a  year  before,  that  the  road 
itself  (along  "  the  ridge")  was  opened  by  a  grant  of  the  legislature  of  $5,000 ; 
before  that  it  was  impassable. 


Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers.  103 

of  that  lake  were  still  possessed  by  the  Indians.  The  first 
bridge  was  laid  on  mud  sills. 

The  first  settler  at  Aurora,  on  that  lake,  was  Roswell  Franklin  : 
he  with  his  father  settled  there  in  1787,  in  a  log  house  of  twelve 
feet  square.  They  had  both  been  in  the  battle  and  massacre  of 
Wyoming.  There  he  had  seen  the  butchery  of  his  mother  and  one 
sister,  another  led  away  prisoner  for  eleven  years,  himself  a 
prisoner  at  Mount  Morris  three  years.  Such  a  pioneer  lived  to 
see  the  door  sill  of  his  log  house,  and  the  tree  stump  before  his 
door,  which  was  used  for  the  pounding  of  corn,  preserved  as 
relics,  even  by  the  generation,  among  whom  he  was  still  alive  in 
1842. 

When  Messrs.  Hendy,  Miller  and  Marks,  began  their  log  house 
settlement  at  Elmira,  in  1789,  the  only  road  existing  in  the  coun- 
try for  hundreds  of  miles  round  was  what  was  called  the  Indian 
pathway,  leading  from  Wilkesbarre  to  Canada.  By  this  path- 
way the  emigrants  from  the  south  were  accustomed  to  reach 
Niagara,  &c. 

At  that  time  the  Indians  were  all  around  the  settlers,  and 
would  make  free  at  all  times  to  visit  the  cabins  of  the  whites,  and 
set  themselves  down  unasked,  or  helped  themselves  freely  of 
whatever  food  they  saw  on  the  table.  It  was  not  always  con- 
venient to  so  receive  them,  but  it  was  deemed  most  politic  to 
overlook  their  freedom.  In  the  year  1790,  there  were  assembled 
at  Elmira,  eleven  hundred  Indians  to  negotiate  a  treaty  with 
Col.  T.  Pickering. 

One  who  had  been  of  the  number  of  the  western  pioneers  has 
well  said  of  such  pioneers,  that 'they  look  with  less  complaisance 
and  pleasure  upon  the  last  few  years  of  their  lives,  than  upon 
those  in  which  the  forests  were  falling  beneath  their  axes ;  or  in 
their  tow  frocks — the  insignia  of  their  priestly  office — they  per- 
forming obsequies  of  the  monarchs  of  the  wood,  at  their  funeral 
piles.  They  are  indeed,  now  made  to  witness  the  scenes  of 
more  wealth  and  action,  but  not  of  more  tranquillity  and  purity. 
Their  affections  then  were  warm  and  buoyant,  and  their  confi- 
dence and  regard  was  mutual.  At  their  convivial  assemblies, 
which  they  sometimes  found  time  to  convene,  the  simplicity  of 
their  social  and  rude  entertainments,  served  up  as  they  often 
were  upon  oaken  slabs,  supported  as  they  were  upon  their 
wooden  stakes  or  pegs,  was  more  than  compensated  by  the  full 
flow  of  spirits,  and  the  entire  absence  of  all  rivalry  and  envy. 

The  first  settlers,  at  Lowville  and  about  Black  river,  who  went 
therein  1795,  from  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,  made  their 
way  from  Utica,  and  Fort  Stanwix  (Rome),  by  a  line  of  marked 
trees,  to  the  High  falls  on  Black  river ;  and  thence  they  floated 
down  with  the  stream.  Their  families  followed  in  the  succeeding 
winter  shod  with  snow  shoes,  mothers  making  their  way  with 
infants  in  their  arms,  whilst  their  husbands  and  fathers,  trod 


l©4  Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers, 

paths  through  the  snow  for  their  cattle  and  teams.  It  was  not 
unusual  for  these  settlers  to  go  forty  miles  to  mill,  and  to  carry 
the  grist  upon  their  shoulders. 

A  party  of  emigrants  from  New  England  in  1790-91,  made  a 
road  through  the  woods  from  the  settlements  of  Whitestown  out 
to  Canandaigua.  The  winter  was  the  season  usually  chosen  for 
conveying  families,  because  they  were  then  the  surest  of  sleigh- 
ing and  sledding,  and  passing  the  streams  on  ice  bridges.  The 
first  settlements  along  the  great  road  from  Utica  to  Genessee 
river,  were  mostly  commenced  by  the  year  1800. 

When  Judge  White  first  began  his  settlement  at  Whites- 
borough,  near  Utica,  his  nearest  mill  was  at  Palatine,  forty 
miles  off,  and  the  whole  of  this  distance  was  to  be  travelled  by 
an  Indian  path.  For  lack  of  animal  food,  they  used  to  salt  down 
the  breast  of  the  wild  pigeons  by  a  barrel  at  a  time.  The  first 
court  for  the  town  was  held  in  a  barn. 

When  David  Tripp  first  settled  at  Manlius,in  1790,  his  nearest 
neighbour  was  ten  miles  off,  at  Onondaga.  At  one  time  the  only 
article  of  food  which  his  family  had  for  three  months,  with  the 
exception  of  wild  roots  and  milk,  was  a  bushel  of  corn  which  he 
had  brought  from  Herkimer,  fifty -five  miles,  on  his  back.  The 
first  wedding  in  this  place,  was  in  July,  1794,  upon  a  training 
day,  and  was  celebrated  in  an  open  yard  in  front  of  the  inn, 
while  the  soldiers  formed  a  hollow  square  around  the  parties. 
The  first  frame  house  built  in  the  place,  had  the  floor  boards 
brought  from  Palatine,  and  the  other  boards  from  a  distant  mill. 
The  nails  were  sent  for  and  brought  thirty-three  miles,  from 
Oriskany,  by  a  lad  bringing*  forty-six  pounds  on  his  back. 

When  the  canal  navigation  from  Rome  to  Salina  was  first 
opened  in  1820,  a  passenger  describes  the  whole  region  as  passing 
through  a  wilderness  of  sixty  miles ;  the  land  nearly  the  whole 
distance  was  low,  marshy  and  cold.  The  most  of  the  forest  was 
an  evergreen,  deep  and  dank,  such  as  the  advancing  settlers 
seemed  unwilling  to  enter  upon  with  any  hope  of  cultivation. 
But  now  the  marshes  and  swamps  are  drained  by  the  canal, 
and  its  banks  now  are  well  filled  up  with  a  thrifty  population. 
Salina  and  Syracuse  have  since  risen  like  enchantment  from  the 
gains  of  the  salt  works. 

A  gentleman,  who  visited  the  New  England  settlers  at  Canan- 
daigua, in  1797,  five  years  after  their  beginning,  found  them  con- 
tending with  numerous  difficulties,  with  light  hearts  and  buoyant 
spirits ;  while  he  as  a  looker  on,  thought  most  of  the  mud  knee 
deep,  and  the  musquitoes  and  gnats  so  thick  as  to  baflie  his 
breathing,  they  were  talking  of  what  the  country  would  be  by 
and  by,  as  if  it  were  history  already  realized  ! 

When  Ulysses  was  first  settled,  a  Mr.  George  Wayburn,  there, 
had  a  terrible  conflict  with  a  she  bear,  whose  two  whelps  he  had 
previously  shot.  She  somehow  tumbled  with  him  down  the  preci- 


Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers.  105 

pice  of  Goodwill's  falls,  and  happily  at  the  bottom,  the  bear  fell 
undermost  into  a  crevice  in  the  rock,  which  enabled  him,  with 
the  assistance  of  his  son,  although  himself  much  wounded,  to 
dispatch  the  beast. 

In  cutting  down  a  white  oak  tree  at  Lyons,  in  1834,  of  thirteen 
and  a  half  feet  girth,  there  was  found  in  the  body  of  the  tree, 
three  and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground,  a  large  and  deep  cutting 
by  an  axe,  severing  the  heart  of  the  tree,  and  exhibiting  with 
perfect  distinctness  the  marks  of  the  axe.  The  whole  cavity,  thus 
created  by  the  original  cutting,  was  found  to  be  four  hundred  and 
sixty  years  of  growth  of  the  wood,  i.  e.  it  was  concealed  beneath 
four  hundred  and  sixty  layers  of  the  timber,  which  had  grown 
over  it  subsequently  to  the  cutting.  Thus  evincing  that  the 
original  cutting  must  have  been  in  1372,  which  is  one  hundred 
and  eighteen  years  before  the  discovery  of  America  by  Columbus  ! 
The  tree  was  cut  by  James  P.  Bartle,  a  respectable  informant. 
The  cutting  was  six  inches  deep. 

It  was  in  the  year  1798,  that  the  present  Lord  Ash  burton,  then 
a  gentleman  commoner,  and  the  present  Louis  Phillipe,  King  of 
the  French,  and  his  brothers,  then  exiled  princes,  met  unexpectedly 
in  a  night  scene,  upon  the  present  site  of  Rochester,  then  in  its  wild- 
erness state.  The  mutual  approach,  as  they  severally  heard  the 
sound  of  the  foot-treads  in  the  bushes,  gave  mutual  alarm,  as  they 
severally  feared  the  unwelcome  visitations  of  the  neighbouring 
Indians.  Now  how  changed  the  scenes  !  and  how  different  the 
relations  of  the  several  members  of  that  rude  sylvan  gathering. 

It  was  the  practice  of  the  exploring  hunters,  and  woodmen, 
when  laying  out  for  the  night,  to  make  a  pillow  of  their  pack,  to 
lay  on  descending  ground,  so  as  to  raise  their  heads  and  to  de- 
press their  feet  towards  their  fires.  At  these  fires  they  cooked 
their  meals,  by  sticking  their  venison  or  their  dough  upon  a 
pointed  stick,  staked  near  to  the  fire,  and  which  was  turned  as 
occasion  required,  so  as  to  present  the  whole  to  the  roasting  opera- 
tion. Sometimes  they  put  the  dough  in  the  ashes,  to  bake  it. 
The  process  made  sweet  food,  even  without  salt,  which  was  often 
at  three  dollars  a  bushel,  before  the  salt  licks  were  worked. 

So  much  of  Western  New  York,  having  been  settled  by  the 
people  of  New  England,  it  may  not  be  inappropriate  to  say  a 
few  words  of  their  forefathers  the  Puritans,  themselves :  A 
name  once  intended  for  reproach  by  the  worldlings  of  a  licentious 
age,  but  when  rightly  considered,  reflecting  on  the  Puritans, 
and  their  descendants,  a  lasting  honour ;  indeed  they  were  by  the 
diffusion  of  their  principles,  the  proper  founders  of  our  great 
Republic  itself.  They  willingly  forsook  all  the  social  comforts 
of  country  and  home,  and  encountered  all  the  severities  and  de- 
privations of  a  wilderness  life,  to  gain  for  themselves  and  posterity 
freedom  of  thought  and  action.  A  noble  purpose  in  itself?  and 
not  to  be  overlooked  or  disregarded  by  their  sons. 

14 


106  Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers. 

But  why  should  any  American  suppose  himself  scandalized 
by  the  name,  character,  and  general  conduct  of  the  Puritans  ? 
The  more  they  are  understood,  the  better  and  brighter  will  their 
memory  appear.  Churchmen  may  have  been  taught  to  dislike 
them,  for  they  opposed  their  hierarchy ;  because,  during  the  reign 
of  Elizabeth,  and  one  or  two  subsequent  sovereigns,  they  main- 
tained a  strenuous  opposition  to  laws,  which  had  for  their  object, 
first  to  make  the  Queen  the  head  of  the  church,  and  the  other 
requiring  conformity  in  all  things,  to  the  established  religion ; 
the  Puritans  in  the  meantime,  resisting  them  with  heroic  and 
daring  spirit,  and  requiring,  as  their  natural  right,  greater 
liberty  and  simplicity,  and  more  purity  of  worship.  We  may, 
with  just  pride,  refer  to  their  character,  as  written  by  the  Hon. 
T.  B.  Macauley  (in  the  Edinburgh  Review),  himself  a  Briton, 
connected  with  the  established  church :  he  saying,  "  they  were 
the  most  remarkable  body  of  men  which  the  world  ever  produced. 
As  a  body  they  were  unpopular,  and  were  therefore  abandoned 
to  the  attacks  of  the  press  and  the  stage  ;  but  it  is  not  from  ridi- 
cule alone  that  the  philosophy  of  history  is  to  be  learnt.  To 
know,  serve,  and  enjoy  God,  was  with  the  Puritan,  the  great  end 
of  existence.  With  their  minds  cleared  of  every  vulgar  passion 
and  prejudice,  and  raised  above  the  influence  of  danger  and  cor- 
ruption, they  went  through  life,  like  Sir  Artegale's  iron  man 
Talus,  with  his  flail  crushing  and  trampling  down  every  form  of 
oppression,  mingling  with  human  beings,  but  having  no  part  in 
human  infirmities,  insensible  to  fatigue,  to  pleasure,  to  pain.  On 
the  rich  and  the  eloquent,  on  the  priests  and  on  nobles,  they 
looked  down  with  pity  or  contempt;  for  they  regarded  them- 
selves rich  in  more  precious  treasure,  and  eloquent  in  a  sublimer 
language  ;  nobles  by  the  right  of  an  earUer  creation,  and  priests 
by  the  imposition  of  a  mightier  hand.  They  therefore  rejected 
with  disdain  the  ceremonious  homage  which  others  had  substi- 
tuted for  the  pure  worship  of  the  soul.  Hence  their  contempt  for 
all  earthly  distinctions.  Men  might  sneer  at  them  and  deride  ; 
but  those  had  little  reason  to  laugh  who  encountered  them  in  the 
hall  of  debate,  or  the  field  of  battle.  In  civil  and  military  aflairs, 
they  displayed  a  coolness  of  judgment,  and  a  fixedness  of  purpose, 
which  were  the  necessary  effect  of  their  zeal ;  for  the  very  inten- 
sity of  their  feelings  on  one  subject,  made  them  calm  and  tranquil 
on  every  other.  The  Puritan,  indeed,  was  made  up  of  two 
different  men  ;  the  one,  all  penitence,  and  affection,  and  gratitude, 
and  self-abasement ;  [like  Cromwell,  "  with  a  heart  to  fear  none 
but  his  God  !"]  the  other,  proud,  calm,  inflexible,  sagacious.  He 
prostrated  himself  in  the  dust  before  his  Maker;  but  [like  Crom- 
well, also,]  he  set  his  foot  on  the  neck  of  his  king.''  Such  were 
the  Puritans  to  the  eye  of  the  candid  politician,  and  such  they 
were  substantially  to  the  eye  of  the  christian.  "  They  had  their 
faults,  their  false  logic  and  their  extravagance,  the  effects  of  the 


Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers,  107 

age  in  which  they  Uved,"  but  they  came  to  this  country  the 
friends  oi  liberty,  oi  education,  oi  religion  ;  and  "  in  the  learning 
of  many  of  them,  and  in  the  wisdom  and  results  of  Xheiv plans  and 
labours,  they  still  stand  forth  a  noble  race,  altogetlier  superior  to 
the  ancestors  of  any  other  nation  f  No  other  nation  has 
ever  been  founded  from  such  elevated  motives,  and  for  such  noble 
and  benevolent  ends.  Oppressed  and  persecuted,  where  they 
should  have  been  protected,  and  then  exiled  and  banished,  they 
resolved,  for  liberty^ s  sake  and  religioii^s  sake,  to  leave  the 
homes  of  their  fathers.  They  were  the  instinctive  friends  of 
freedom :  twice  in  their  native  land,  did  they  save  the  British 
constitution  from  being  crushed  by  the  usurpations  of  the  Stuarts. 
Even  Hume,  who  is  sufficiently  unfriendly,  is  compelled  to  say 
of  them,  "  that  the  precious  spark  of  liberty  had  been  kindled 
and  was  preserved  by  the  Puritans,"  and  that  to  them,  ''  the 
English  owe  the  whole  freedom  of  their  constitution  .'"  And 
it  is  another  noble  feature  in  their  character,  that  ere  they  left 
their  vessel,  the  May  Flower,  they  wrote  out  and  signed  the  first 
written  constitution  of  government,  that  is  to  be  found  in  the 
history  of  civilized  nations  ;  and  particularly  recognizing  that  fun- 
damental principle  of  all  true  Republics,  that  all  should  be  ruled 
by  the  majority  !  To  that  cause,  as  a  cause,  they  afterwards, 
repelled  those  who  essayed  to  come  among  them  to  subvert  the 
faith,  in  which  they,  as  a  whole,  trusted.  It  indeed  operated 
harshly ;  but  they  had  framed  their  law,  and  their  opinions  were 
fixed;  they  perhaps  knew  not,  even  conscientiously,  how  to  yield. 
But  yield  they  did,  at  length,  in  so  far  as  religious  opinion  was 
concerned. 

A  good  sermon,  looking  at  these  things  as  they  were,  was  de- 
livered and  published  at  Rochester,  in  1837,  by  the  Rev.  Tryon 
Edwards,  who  glorying  in  his  descent  from  such  progenitors,  and 
conceiving  that  God  in  his  providence,  had  mercifully  so  provided 
by  them,  an  asylum  for  the  Anglo-Saxon  race,  in  this  new  world, 
thus  designates  his  mercies  to  them  and  to  us — saying,  "  on  the 
first  arrival  of  our  fathers,  the  power  of  the  savage  was  restrained, 
till  by  their  own  increase,  they  were  adequate  to  the  Avork  of 
self-protection.  Still  later  in  our  history,  France  coveted  our 
possessions,  and  for  more  than  half  a  century,  strove  to  wrest 
them  from  us.  On  the  west,  she  hemmed  us  in  ^  by  a  chain  of 
fortresses,  and  on  the  east,  our  shores  were  defenceless  to  her 
carnage.'  For  a  time  it  seemed  as  if  utter  destruction  awaited 
us,  but  George  the  Second  was  '  a  father  to  his  colonies,'  and 
he  that  transplanted,  sustained  us,  as  is  acknowledged  in  the  well 
expressed  motto  oif  Connecticut,  '  Qui  transtulit  sustulit.^ 
Among  other  remembered  mercies,  as  says  the  same  preacher, 
"  we  must  not  overlook  the  fact  of  disaster  to  the  great  fleet  fitted 
out  by  the  French  in  1746,  to  ravage  and  destroy  along  our  de- 
fenceless coast.     For  weeks  it  was  ^ut  up  in  the  ports  of  France, 


108  Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneets. 

by  what  has  been  called,  ^  an  embargo  from  Heaven.'  In  cross- 
ing the  ocean,  too,  it  was  so  shattered  by  tempests,  that  only  a 
part  of  it  ever  reached  our  shores;  and  the  first  and  second  in 
command,  were  so  frustrated  and  appalled,  that  they  put  an  end 
to  their  lives — the  third  had  no  sooner  effected  a  landing  for  his 
men,  than  they  were  so  afiiicted  with  a  pestilence,  that  their 
camp,  like  that  of  Assyria  of  old,  was  full  of  dead  men,  and  in 
the  sequel,  constraining  them  *  to  return  by  the  way  they  came." 

Such  were  the  Puritans, — and  may  not  Yankees  feel  honoured 
in  such  a  descent !  What  if  they  had  for  a  time,  errors  of  zeal, 
and  intolerance,  for  what  they  deemed  certainly  right,  were  not 
their  positive  virtues,  connected  with  the  lasting  good  which  they 
conferred  upon  their  posterity,  and  for  the  whole  human  race, 
sufficient  to  embalm  their  memory,  in  the  respect  and  gratitude 
of  their  sons  ?     Let  the  public  consider. 

We  feel  as  if  we  cannot  but  love  to  expatiate  on  the  character 
of  the  Yankee,  he  is  so  peculiar.  No  other  man  is  like  him. 
It  has  been  said  of  him,  that  he  is  made  for  all  situations,  and  can 
manage  to  work  his  way  in  all  places.  Place  him  on  a  rock  in 
the  midst  of  the  ocean,  and  with  his  penknife,  and  a  bunch  of 
shingles,  he  would  work  his  way  on  shore.  He  sells  salmon,  from 
Kennebeck,  to  the  people  of  Charleston ;  haddock,  fresh  from 
Cape  Cod,  to  the  planters  of  Matanzas ;  raises  coffee  in  Cuba ; 
swaps  mules  and  horses,  like  Arnold,  for  niolasses  in  Porto  Rico  ; 
retails  ice,  from  Fresh  pond,  in  Cambridge,  in  the  East  Indies ; 
Takes  mutton,  from  Brighton  to  New  Orleans,  and  South  Amer- 
ica ;  manufactures  multicaulis,  for  the  governor  of  Jamaica ;  be- 
comes an  admiral  in  a  foreign  nation ;  starts  in  a  cockle-shell 
craft  of  fifteen  tons,  loaded  with  onions,  mackerel,  and  ^'notions^^ 
for  Valparaiso ;  baits  his  trap  on  the  Columbia  river ;  catches 
wild-beasts  in  Africa,  for  Macomber's  caravan ;  sells  granite,  on 
contract  to  rebuild  St.  Juan  de  Ulloa;  is  ready  Uke  Ledyard,  to  start 
for  Timbuctoo,  "  to-morrow  morning" — exiles  himself  for  years, 
from  home,  to  sketch  in  their  own  wilderness,  the  wild  men  of 
the  woods,  and  astonishes  refined  Europe,  with  the  seeming 
presence  of  the  untutored  savage.  Introduced  to  Metternich,  he 
asks  "  what's  the  news  ?"  Says,  "  how  do  you  do  marm  ?"  to 
Victoria.  Prescribes  Thompson's  eye-water  to  the  mandarins  of 
China,  and  if  he  pleases,  makes  the  scouting  Southrons,  rich  with 
cotton  inventions.  He  is  found  foremost  among  those  who  sway 
the  elements  of  society — is  the  school-master  for  his  country,  and 
missionary  for  the  whole  heathen  world*.  He  is  unequalled  in 
tact,  and  instead  of  going  over  round-about  ways,  starts  across 
lots,  for  any  desired  point.  If  perpetual  motion  is  ever  to  be  dis- 
covered, he  will  be  sure  to  be  the  lucky  contriver — for  he  is  the 
fac  totum  for  the  world. 

Surely  such  a  people  are  not  made  to  be  subdued  by  any  thing. 
They  have  too  much  courage,  energy,  and  heart,  to  ever  be  any 


Inland  Settlers  and  Pioneers.  109 

thing  but  their  own  masters.  Such  they  have  been,  from  the 
day  that  they  landed  in  Plymouth;  and  their  spirit  and  enterprise, 
has  been  growing  and  growing  ever  since.  Show  them  the  in- 
ventions and  arts  of  any  people,  and  they  will  be  at  trying  it  until 
they  make  it  better.  Look  at  their  manufactories,  as  in  point ! 
They  canU  be  idle;  they  can't  remain  in  self-indulgence  and  re- 
pose at  home — their  sterile  and  stony  hills,  and  mountains,  forbid 
it ;  they,  besides,  ^ee/  their  impulse  and  loco-motive  powers  pre- 
dominant, and  must  be  at  bettering  the  world  and  themselves. 
Such  a  people  deserve  to  be  welcomed  every  where ;  and  that 
welcome  they  will  have.  We  have  ourself,  some  Yankee  blood, 
and  scruple  not  thus  to  own  it.  To  that  cause,  perhaps,  we  owe 
our  disposition  to  busy  ourself  in  many  things,  and  to  be  prone 
*Ho  note  and  observe ;" — non  sibi,  sed patrise  et  mundo. 

Log  cabins  and  log  houses,  which  hold  so  prominent  a  place 
among  all  new  settlers,  have  of  late  been  exalted  into  con- 
spicuous notice,  by  the  fact  of  the  late  President  of  the  United 
States,  General  Harrison,  having  himself  dwelt  in  such  a  structure. 
The  writer  feels  his  personal  respect  and  regard  for  them,  because 
his  maternal  ancestors,  were  among  those  first  new  settlers  in 
New  Hampshire,  at  the  head  of  Connecticut  river,  which  has 
been  so  touchingly  described,  by  Bishop  Chase,  concerning  his 
ancestors  at  the  same  place,  in  1762  ; — and  also,  by  the  eminent 
statesman,  Daniel  Webster.  His  commendation  of  such  houses, 
and  of  the  worthy  pioneers,  who  went  before  us  in  the  march  of 
inland  improvement  and  civilization,  are  sufficiently  in  point,  to 
deserve  a  repetition  here.  His  remarks  are : — "  It  did  not  happen 
to  me  to  be  born  in  a  log  cabin,  but  my  elder  brothers  and  sisters 
were — in  a  log  cabin,  raised  amid  the  snow  drifts  of  New  Hamp- 
shire, at  a  period  so  early,  as  that  when  the  smoke  first  rose  from 
its  rude  chimney,  and  curled  over  the  frozen  hills,  there  was  no 
similar  evidence  of  a  white  man's  habitation  between  it  and  the 
settlements  on  the  rivers  of  Canada.  Its  remains  (says  he),  still 
exist,  and  I  make  to  it  an  annual  visit.  /  carry  my  children  to 
it,  to  inspire  like  sentiments  in  them,  and  to  teach  them  the  hard- 
ships endured  by  the  generations  which  have  gone  before  them. 
Taunt  and  scoffing  at  the  humble  condition  of  early  life,  (says 
he),  affect  nobody  in  this  country,  but  those  who  are  foolish 
enough  to  indulge  in  them."  "For  myself,  I  love  to  dwell  on 
the  tender  recollections,  the  kindred  ties,  the  early  affections,  and 
the  touching  narratives  and  incidents,  which  mingle  with  all  I 
know  of  this  primitive  family  abode.  I  weep  to  think  that  none 
of  those  who  inhabited  it  are  now  among  the  living ;  and  if  ever 
I  am  ashamed  of  it,  or  if  I  ever  fail  in  affectionate  veneration  for 
him  who  reared  it,  and  defended  it  against  savage  violence  and 
destruction,  cherished  by  all  the  domestic  virtues  beneath  its  roof, 
and  through  the  fire  and  blood  of  a  seven  years  Revolutionary 
war,  shrunk  from  no  danger,  no  toil,  no  sacrifice,  to  serve  hi» 

K 


110  The  Indians. 

country,  and  to  raise  his  children  to  a  condition  better  than  his 
own,  may  the  name  of  my  posterity  he  blotted  forever  from  the 
memory  of  man."  Such  sentiments  should  ennoble  any  man ;  and 
more  especially  do  they  illustrate  the  character  and  heart  of  the 
man  who  published  them — they  show  an  enthusiasm,  and  holi- 
ness oi  feeling,  devoted  to  the  dead  and  to  the  pioneers,  which 
give  character  and  immortality  to  him  who  cherished  them.  Ifeel 
their  full  force,  and  gladly  record  them  here ! 


THE    INDIANS. 

"  A  swarthy  tribe 
Slipt  from  the  secret  hand  of  Providence, 
They  come  we  see  not  how,  nor  know  we  whence  ; 
Thai  seem'd  created  on  the  spot — though  born, 
In  transatlantic  climes,  and  thither  brought,  , 

By  paths  as  covert  as  the  birth  of  thought ! " 

There  is  in  the  fate  of  these  unfortunate  beings  much  to  awake 
our  sympathy,  and  much  to  disturb  the  sobriety  of  our  judgment ; 
much  in  their  character,  to  incite  our  involuntary  admiration. 
What  can  be  more  melancholy  than  their  history  ?  By  a  law  of 
their  nature,  they  seem  destined  to  a  slow  but  sure  extinction. 
Every  where  at  the  approach  of  the  white  man  they  fade  away  : 
We  hear  the  rustling  of  their  footsteps,  like  that  of  the  withered 
leaves  of  autumn  ;  and  themselves,  like  "  the  sere  and  yellow 
leaf,"  are  gone  forever! 

Once  the  smoke  of  their  wigwams,  and  the  fires  of  their  coun- 
cils, rose  in  every  valley  from  the  ocean  to  the  Mississippi  and 
the  lakes.  The  shouts  of  victory  and  the  war  dance  rung  through 
the  mountains  and  the  glades.  The  light  arrows  and  the  deadly 
tomahawk  whistled  through  the  forest ;  and  the  hunter's  trace, 
and  the  dark  encampment,  startled  the  wild  beasts  from  their 
lairs.  The  warriors  stood  forth  in  their  glory.  The  young  listened 
to  songs  of  other  days.  The  mothers  played  with  their  infants, 
and  gazed  on  the  scene  with  warm  hopes  of  the  future.  Braver 
men  never  lived ;  truer  men  never  drew  the  bow.  They  had 
courage  and  fortitude,  and  sagacity  and  perseverance,  beyond 
most  of  the  human  race.  They  shrunk  from  no  dangers,  and 
they  feared  no  hardships.  They  were  inured,  and  capable  of 
sustaining  every  peril,  and  surmounting  every  obstacle  for  sweet 
country  and  home.  But  with  all  this,  inveterate  destiny  has 
unceasingly  driven  them  hence  ! 

«  Forced  from  the  land  that  gave  them  birth, 
They  dwindle  from  the  face  of  earth  ! " 

In  our  present  notice  of  the  Indians,  we  desire  to  go  back  to 
the  period  when  first  observed  by  Europeans ;  such  as  they  were 


Indian  Treaty,  p.  110 


City  of  New  York,  1842,  p.  143. 


*%. 


The  Indians.  Ill 

before  debauched  by  their  contact  with  the  baser  part  of  our  white 
men.  To  this  end  we  shall  give  the  following  description  of 
them  from  the  personal  observation  and  pen  of  the  celebrated 
Win.  Penn  ;  to  wit :  — 

The  natives  I  shall  consider  in  their  persons,  language,  man- 
ners, religion  and  government,  with  my  sense  of  their  original. 
For  their  persons,  they  are  generally  tall,  straight,  well  built,  and 
of  singular  proportion  ;  they  tread  strong  and  clever,  and  mostly 
walk  with  a  lofty  chin.  Of  complexion,  black,  but  by  design  ; 
as  the  gypsies  in  England.  They  grease  themselves  with  bear's 
fat  clarified ;  and,  using  no  defence  against  sun  or  weather,  their 
skins,  must  needs  be  swarthy.  Their  eye  is  little  and  black,  not 
unlike  a  straight  looked  Jew.  The  thick  lip,  and  flat  nose,  so 
frequent  with  the  East  Indians  and  blacks,  are  not  common  to 
them  :  many  of  them  have  fine  Roman  noses. 

Their  language  is  lofty,  yet  narrow  ;  but  like  the  Hebrew,  in 
signification  full ;  like  short-hand,  in  writing,  one  word  serveth 
in  the  place  of  three,  and  the  rest  are  supplied  by  the  understand- 
ing of  the  hearer:  imperfect  in  their  tenses,  wanting  in  their 
moods,  participles,  adverbs,  conjunctions,  interjections. 

Of  their  customs  and  manners  there  is  much  to  be  said,  I  will 
begin  with  children.  Soon  as  they  are  born,  they  wash  them  in 
water  ;  and  while  very  young,  and  in  cold  weather  they  plunge 
them  in  the  rivers  to  harden  and  embolden  them.  The  children 
will  go  very  young,  at  nine  months  commonly  ;  if  boys  they  go 
a  fishing  till  ripe  for  the  woods,  which  is  about  fifteen ;  then  they 
hunt,  and  after  having  given  some  proofs  of  their  manhood,  by  a 
good  return  of  skins,  they  may  marry ;  else  it  is  a  shame  to  think 
of  a  wife.  The  girls  stay  with  their  mothers,  and  help  to  hoe 
the  ground,  plant  corn,  and  carry  burdens  ;  and  they  do  well  to 
use  them  to  that  young  which  they  must  do  when  they  are  old ; 
for  the  wives  are  the  true  servants  of  the  husbands ;  otherwise 
the  men  are  very  affectionate  to  them. 

When  the  young  women  are  fit  for  marriage,  they  wear  some- 
thing upon  their  heads  for  an  advertisement,  but  so  as  their  faces 
are  hardly  to  be  seen  but  when  they  please.  The  age  they  marry 
at,  if  women,  is  about  thirteen  or  fourteen ;  if  men,  seventeen 
and  eighteen  ;  they  are  rarely  elder. 

Their  houses  are  mats,  or  barks  of  trees,  set  on  poles,  in  the 
fashion  of  an  English  barn  ;  but  out  of  the  power  of  the  winds, 
for  they  are  hardly  higher  than  a  man  ;  they  lie  on  reeds  or  grass. 
In  travel  they  lodge  in  the  woods,  about  a  great  fire,  with  the 
mantle  of  duffils  they  wear  by  the  day  wrapt  about  them,  and  a 
few  boughs  stuck  round  them. 

Their  diet  is  maize  or  Indian  com,  divers  ways  prepared ; 
sometimes  roasted  in  the  ashes ;  sometimes  beaten  and  boiled 
with  water,  which  they  call  homine  ;  they  also  make  cakes,  not 
unpleasant  to  eat.     They  have  likewise  several  sorts  of  beans 


112  The  Indians. 

and  pease  that  are  good  nourishment ;  and  the  woods  and  rivers 
are  their  larder. 

If  an  European  comes  to  see  them,  or  calls  for  lodging  at  their 
house  or  wigwam,  they  give  him  the  best  place  and  first  cut. 
If  they  come  to  visit  us  they  salute  us  with  an  Itah  ;  which  is 
as  much  as  to  say,  good  be  to  yon,  and  set  them  down ;  which  is 
mostly  on  the  ground,  close  to  their  heels,  their  legs  upright ;  it 
may  be  they  speak  not  a  word,  but  observe  all  passages.  If  you 
give  them  any  thing  to  eat  or  drink,  well :  for  they  will  not  ask ; 
and  be  it  little  or  much,  if  it  be  with  kindness  they  are  well  pleased, 
else  they  go  away  sullen,  but  say  nothing. 

They  are  great  concealers  of  their  own  resentments  ;  brought 
to  it,  I  believe,  by  the  revenge  that  hath  been  practised  among 
them. 

But  in  liberality  they  excel ;  nothing  is  too  good  for  their  friend ; 
give  them  a  fine  gun,  coat,  or  other  thing,  it  may  pass  twenty 
hands  before  it  sticks  :  light  of  heart,  strong  affections,  but  soon 
spent.  The  most  merry  creatures  that  live,  feast  and  dance 
perpetually ;  they  never  have  much,  nor  want  much :  wealth 
circulateth  like  the  blood,  all  parts  partake ;  and  though  none 
shall  want  what  another  hath,  yet  exact  observers  of  property. 
They  care  for  little,  because  they  want  but  little  ;  and  the  reason 
is,  a  little  contents  them.  In  this  they  are  sufficiently  revenged 
on  us :  if  they  are  ignorant  of  our  pleasures,  they  are  also  free 
from  our  pains.  We  sweat  and  toil  to  live  ;  their  pleasure  feeds 
them  ;  I  mean  their  hunting,  fishing,  and  fowling  ;  and  this  table 
is  spread  every  where.  They  eat  twice  a-day,  morning  and 
evening ;  their  seats  and  table  are  the  ground. 

In  sickness  impatient  to  be  cured,  and  for  it  give  any  thing, 
especially  for  their  children,  to  whom  they  are  extremely  natural : 
they  drink  at  those  times  a  Tesan,  or  decoction  of  some  roots  in 
spring-water  ;  and  if  they  eat  any  flesh,  it  must  be  of  the  female 
of  any  creature.  If  they  die  they  bury  them  with  their  apparel, 
be  they  man  or  woman,  and  the  nearest  of  kin  fling  in  something 
precious  with  them,  as  a  token  of  their  love  ;  their  mourning  is 
blacking  of  their  faces,  which  they  continue  for  a  year:  they  are 
choice  of  the  graves  of  their  dead ;  for,  lest  they  should  be  lost  by 
time,  and  fall  to  common  use,  they  pick  off  the  grass  that  grows 
upon  them,  and  heap  up  the  fallen  earth  with  great  care  and 
exactness. 

These  poor  people  are  under  a  dark  night  in  things  relating  to 
religion,  to  be  sure,  the  tradition  of  it  •,  yet  they  believe  in  a  God 
and  immortality  without  the  help  of  metaphysics ;  for  they  say, 
"  There  is  a  Great  King  that  made  them,  who  dwells  in  a  glorious 
country  to  the  southward  of  them  ;  and  that  the  souls  of  the  good 
shall  go  thither,  where  they  shall  live  again."  Their  worship 
consists  of  two  parts,  sacrifice  and  cantico  :  their  sacrifice  is  their 
first  fruits ;  the  first  and  fattest  buck  they  kill,  goeth  to  the  fire, 


The  Indians.  '  113 

where  he  is  all  burnt,  with  a  mournful  ditty  of  him  that  perform- 
eth  the  ceremony,  but  with  such  marvellous  fervency  and  labour 
of  body,  that  he  will  even  sweat  to  a  foam.  The  other  parts  is 
their  cantico,  performed  by  round  dances,  sometimes  words,  some- 
times songs,  then  shouts,  two  being  in  the  middle  that  begin,  and 
by  singing  and  drumming  on  a  board,  direct  the  chorus :  their 
postures  in  the  dance  are  very  antick,  and  differing,  but  all  keep 
measure.  This  is  done  with  equal  earnestness  and  labour,  but 
great  appearance  of  joy.  In  the  fall,  when  the  corn  cometh  in, 
they  begin  to  feast  one  another. 

Their  government  is  by  kings,  which  they  call  Sachama,  and 
those  by  successicfn,  but  always  of  the  mother's  side  ;  for  instance, 
the  children  of  him  that  is  now  king  will  not  succeed,  but  his 
brother  by  the  mother,  or  the  children  of  his  sister,  whose  sons 
(and  after  them  the  children  of  her  daughters)  will  reign ;  for  no 
woman  inherits.  The  reason  they  render  for  this  way  of  descent 
is,  that  their  issue  may  not  be  spurious. 

Every  king  hath  his  council,  and  that  consists  of  all  the  old  and 
wise  men  of  his  nation  ;  which  perhaps  is  two  hundred  people  ; 
nothing  of  moment  is  undertaken,  be  it  war,  peace,  selling  of  land, 
or  traffic,  without  advising  with  them ;  and  which  is  more,  with 
the  young  men  too.  It  is  admirable  to  consider  how  powerful 
the  kings  are,  and  yet  how  they  move  by  the  breath  of  their 
people. 

For  their  original,  I  am  ready  to  beheve  them  of  the  Jewish 
race ;  I  mean,  of  the  stock  of  the  ten  tribes,  and  that  for  the  fol- 
lowing reasons  :  first,  they  were  to  go  to  "  a  land  not  planted  or 
known^^  which  to  be  sure,  Asia  and  Africa  were,  if  not  Europe; 
and  he  that  intended  that  extraordinary  judgment  upon  them, 
might  make  the  passage  not  uneasy  to  them,  as  it  is  not  impossi- 
ble in  itself,  from  the  easternmost  parts  of  Asia,  to  the  western- 
most of  America.  In  the  next  place,  I  find  them  of  like  countenance, 
and  their  children  of  so  lively  resemblance,  that  a  man  would 
think  himself  in  Dukes-place  or  Berry-street  in  London  when  he. 
seeth  them.  But  this  is  not  all ;  they  agree  in  rites  ;  they  reckon 
by  moons :  they  offer  their  Jirst-frxdts  ;  they  have  a  kind  of  feast 
of  tabernacles ;  they  are  said  to  lay  their  altars  upon  twelve 
stones;  their  mourning  a  year,  customs  of  women,  with  many 
things  that  do  not  now  occur. 


The  following  observations  concerning  our  Indians  were  made, 
in  1749,  by  Professor  Kalm,  then  traveUing  among  them;  to 
wit:  — 

The  hatchets  of  the  Indians  were  made  of  stone,  somewhat  of 
the  shape  of  a  wedge.  This  was  notched  round  the  biggest  end, 
and  to  this  they  affixed  a  split  stick  for  a  handle,  bound  round  with 
a  cord.  These  hatchets  could  not  serve,  however,  to  cut  any 
thing  like  a  tree ;  their  means  therefore  of  getting  trees  for  canoes, 
15  k2 


114  The  Indians. 

&c.,  was  to  put  a  great  fire  round  the  roots  of  a  big  tree  to  burn 
it  off,  and  with  a  swab  of  rags  on  a  pole  to  keep  the  tree  con- 
stantly wet  above  until  the  fire  below  burnt  it  off.  When  the 
tree  was  down,  they  laid  dry  branches  on  the  trunk  and  set  fire 
to  it,  and  kept  swabbing  that  part  of  the  tree  which  they  did  not 
want  to  burn ;  thus  the  tree  burnt  a  hollow  in  one  place  only ; 
when  burnt  enough,  they  chipt  or  scraped  it  smooth  inside  with 
their  hatchets,  or  sharp  flints,  or  sharp  shells.  Instead  of  knives, 
they  used  little  sharp  pieces  of  flints  or  quartz,  or  a  piece  of 
sharpened  bone.  At  the  end  of  their  arrows  they  fastened  narrow 
angulated  pieces  of  stone ;  these  were  commonly  flints  or  quartz. 
Some  made  use  of  the  claws  of  birds  and  beasts. 

They  had  stone  pestles,  of  about  a  foot  long  and  five  inches  in 
thickness ;  in  these  they  pounded  their  maize.  Many  had  only 
wooden  pestles.  The  Indians  were  astonished  beyond  measure 
when  they  saw  the  first  wind-mills  to  grind  grain.  They  were, 
at  first,  of  opinion  that  not  the  wind,  but  spirits  within  them  gave 
them  their  momentum.  They  would  come  from  a  great  distance, 
and  set  down  for  days  near  them,  to  wonder  and  admire  at  them! 

The  old  tobacco  pipes  were  made  of  clay  or  pot  stone,  or  ser- 
pentine stone ;  the  tube  thick  and  short.  Some  were  made  better, 
of  a  very  fine  red  pot  stone,  and  were  seen  chiefly  with  the 
Sachems.  Some  of  the  old  Dutchmen  at  New  York  preserved 
the  tradition  that  the  first  Indians  seen  by  the  Europeans,  made 
use  of  copper  for  their  tobacco  pipes,  got  from  the  second  river 
near  Elizabethtown. 

There  was  hardly  any  district  of  country  where  the  Indians  so 
fully  enjoyed  an  abundant  and  happy  home  as  on  Long  Island. 
The  tribes  there  were  of  the  Lenni  Lenape  or  Delaware  race, 
bearing  the  designation  of  the  Matouwax  and  Paumunake. 
They  had  there  vast  quantities  of  wild  fowl  and  abundance  of 
sea-fish ;  oysters,  clams,  crabs,  muscles,  &c.  They  had  the  art 
of  catching  fish  by  torch-light,  called  wigwass  by  them,  in  the 
way  we  call  bobbing.  It  was  their  practice  to  set  a  fire  of  pine 
knots  on  a  platform  in  the  middle  of  their  canoes,  the  light  attract- 
ed numerous  fish,  which  they  struck  with  an  eel  spear.  Their 
smoked  faces  and  reddened  eyes  by  the  operation,  often  gave 
them  a  grotesque  appearance.  They  would  lay  up  great  store 
of  dried  clams  by  stringing  them,  and  sending  them  far  into  the 
country  for  distant  tribes.  Besides  all  this,  they  were  great  mer- 
chants oi  wampum  or  seawant;  they  procuring  and  forming  from 
the  sea  shells  all  the  Indian  money  used  for  ornament  and  traffic. 
To  this  day,  the  soil  of  the  island  shows  frequent  traces  of  the  nu- 
merous shells  once  drawn  out  from  the  sea  and  scattered  over  its 
surface.  The  families  while  so  engaged  in  fishing,  had  always 
near  them  their  huts  or  wigwams  by  the  water  side,  made  close 
and  warm  with  an  entire  covering  of  sea  weed. 

Respecting  the  frequent  diet  of  the  Indians  in  general,  we  may 


The  Indians.  115 

say,  that  besides  their  usual  plantations  of  corn,  pumpkins, 
squashes,  &c.  they  often  used  wilds  roots  and  wild  fruits ;  among 
the  latter  were  chestnuts,  shellbarks,  walnuts,  persimons,  huckle- 
berries, &c. ;  of  the  roots,  they  had  hopniss  (glycine  apios),  kat- 
niss  (sagittaria  sagittifolia),  tawho  (arum  virginicum),  tawkee 
(orantium  aquaticum).  These  roots  generally  grew  in  low  damp 
grounds,  were  a  kind  of  potatoes  to  them,  and  were  divested  of 
their  poisonous  or  injurious  quality  by  roasting  them  in  the  fire. 
They  used  to  dry  and  keep  their  huckleberries  like  raisins.  They 
would  pound  hickor^^  and  walnut  nuts  to  a  fine  pulp,  and  mixing 
water  with  it  formed  a  pleasant  drink,  not  unlike  milk  in  sight 
and  taste.  They  made  yoekeg,  a  mush,  liked  also  by  the  whites, 
formed  of  pounded  parched  corn  and  cider  mixed.  Suckatash 
they  made  from  corn  and  beans  mixed  together  and  boiled.  Their 
pumpkins  they  preserved  long,  by  cutting  them  into  slices  and 
drying  them.  On  the  rivers  they  had  an  art  of  forming  pinfolds 
for  taking  fish  ;  and  when  they  took  sturgeons,  they  cut  them  in- 
to strips  and  preserved  them  by  drying.  Fish  hooks  they  some- 
times made  of  fish  bones  and  bird  claws ;  and  fish  lines  they 
formed  from  a  species  of  wild  grass,  or  from  the  sinews  of  ani- 
mals. All  these  were  indeed  but  instances  of  clumsy  invention 
and  rude  fare,  but  their  education  and  hearts  were  formed  to  it, 
and  they  loved  it  and  were  happy ;  having  every  where  their 
table  spread  by  nature  to  their  entire  wants  and  satisfaction.  In 
those  days  they  were  hunters  more  for  clothing  and  amusement 
than  for  necessary  food. 

The  Indians  whom  we  usually  call  Delawares,  because  first 
found  about  the  regions  of  the  Delaware  river,  never  used  that 
name  among  themselves;  they  called  themselves  Lenni  Lenape, 
which  means  "  the  original  people,^^ — Lenni  meaning  original, 
— whereby  they  expressed  they  were  an  unmixed  race,  who  had 
never  changed  their  character  since  the  creation  ; — in  effect  they 
were  primitive  sons  of  Adam,  and  others  were  sons  of  the  curse, 
as  of  Ham,  or  of  the  outcast  Ishmael,  &c. 

They,  as  well  as  the  Mengwe  (called  by  us  Iroquois),  agreed 
in  saying  they  came  from  westward  of  the  Mississippi — called  by 
them  Namxsi  Sipu,  or  river  of  fish ;  and  that  when  they  came 
over  to  the  eastern  side  of  that  river,  they  there  encountered,  and 
finally  drove  off,  all  the  former  inhabitants,  called  the  Alligewi — 
(and  of  course  the  primitives  of  all  our  country !)  who,  probably, 
such  as  survived,  sought  refuge  in  Mexico. 

From  these  facts  we  may  learn,  that  however  unjustifiable,  in 
a  moral  sense  may  be  the  aggressions  of  our  border  men,  yet  on 
the  rule  of  the  lex  talionis  we  may  take  refuge  and  say,  we  only 
drive  off  or  dispossess  those  who  were  themselves  encroachers, 
even  as  all  our  Indians,  as  above  stated,  were  ! 

The  Indians  called  the  Quakers  Quekels,  and  "  the  English," 
by  inability  of  pronouncing  it,  they  sounded    Yengees — from 


116  The  Indians. 

whence  probably,  we  have  now  our  name  of  Yankees.  In  their 
own  language  they  called  the  English  Saggenah. 

Men  whose  thoughts  are  engrossed  in  the  affairs  of  the  world, 
or  in  the  immediate  concerns  of  self-preservation,  may  be  unmind- 
ful of  others ;  but  youth,  who  are  free  from  such  cares,  can 
indulge  their  natural  propensity  of  looking  abroad  and  into  the 
state  of  others,  by  an  attention  to  the  actual  state  of  the  poor 
Indian.  They  have  repeatedly  heard  that  all  the  lands  of  our 
western  interior  were  not  long  since  the  property  of  the  aborigi- 
nes ;  and  as  they  now  witness  their  entire  exclusion  from  all  those 
regions,  they  naturally  enquire  where  are  they,  and  what  has  be- 
come of  those  who  once  welcomed  to  their  wigwams  and  to  their 
hospitaUty  our  pilgrim  forefathers  ?  It  was  once  their  greatest 
gratification  to  be  accounted  the  white  man's  friend  and  benefac- 
tor ;  for  truly  they  could  say,  "  none  ever  entered  the  cabin  of 
Logan  hungry,  and  he  gave  him  no  meat ;  or  cold,  or  naked,  and 
he  gave  him  no  clothes." 

As  the  race  is  receding  from  the  civilization  and  encroachments 
of  white  men,  and  becoming  more  and  more  scarce  among  men, 
it  will  become  still  more  the  duty  and  proper  kindness  of  the 
coming  generation  to  cherish  a  regard  and  a  veneration  for  the 
few  scattered  fragments  of  a  once  mighty  people.  Already  the 
last  feeble  remnants  are  preparing  to  go  into  remote  exile  in  the  far 
distant  west.  We  see  them  leaving  reluctantly  their  long  cherished 
homes,  "few  and  faint, yet  fearless  still."  They  turn  to  take  a  last 
look  at  their  deserted  towns — a  last  glance  at  the  graves  of  their 
fathers.  They  shed  no  tears ;  they  utter  no  cries  ;  they  heave 
no  groans.  There  is  something  in  their  hearts  which  surpasses 
speech  ;  there  is  something  in  their  looks,  not  of  vengeance  or 
submission,  but  of  hard  necessity,  which  stifles  both ;  which 
chokes  all  utterance  ;  which  has  no  aim  or  method.  It  is  courage 
absorbed  in  despair. 

A  mind  fully  alive  to  the  facts  which  in  the  new  countries  of 
the  west  still  environ  him  wherever  he  goes,  can  hardly  ride 
along  the  highway,  or  traverse  the  fields  and  woods,  without 
feeling  the  constant  and  welcome  intrusion  of  thoughts  like  these, 
to  wit :  Here  lately  prowled  the  beasts  of  prey  ;  *  there  crowded 
the  deep  interminable  woodland  shade  ;  through  that  cripple 
browsed  the  deer ;  in  that  rude  cluster  of  rocks  and  roots  were 
sheltered  the  deadly  rattlesnake.  These  rich  meadows  were 
noxious  swamps.  On  those  sun-side  hills  of  golden  grain  crack- 
led the  growing  maize  of  the  tawny  aborigines.  Where  we  stand, 
perchance  to  pause  and  consider,  rest  the  ashes  of  a  chief  or  of 
his  family ;  and  where  we  have  chosen  our  favourite  sites  for 

*  As  late  as  the  year  1815  to  '20,  the  state  treasury  expended  38,260  dollars 
for  killing  wolves  in  37  of  the  western  counties  !  Could  any  thing  more  strikingly 
exhibit  its  recent  savage  state,  even  where  now  "  unwieldly  wealth  and  cumbrous 
pomp  repose !" 


The  Indians.  117 

towns  or  habitations,  may  have  been  the  selected  spots  on  which 
were  hutted  the  now  departed  Uneage  of  many  generations.  On 
yon  path- way,  seen  in  the  distant  view,  cUmbing  the  remote 
hills,  may  have  been  the  very  path  tracked  from  time  immemorial 
by  the  roving  Indians  themselves. 

It  is  not  possible  for  a  considerate  and  feeling  mind,  even  now 
to  stand  upon  the  margin  of  such  charming  and  picturesque  lakes 
as  the  Skaneatteles,  the  Cayuga,  and  the  Seneca,  &c.  without 
thinking  how  happily  the  Indians  of  primitive  days  were  wont 
to  pass  their  time  in  such  enchanting  regions ;  but  they  are  all 
gone,  all  wasted  like  a  pestilence.  A  few  diminished  tribes  still 
linger  about  our  remote  borders ;  and  others,  more  distant  in  the 
rude  wilds,  still  gather  a  scanty  subsistence  from  the  diminished 
game.  It  would  be  to  our  honour  and  to  their  comfort  and 
preservation,  could  we  yet  extend  to  them  the  blessings  of  civili- 
zation and  religion.  We  owe  it  to  ourselves  and  to  them  to  yet 
redeem  this  wasting,  injured,  faded  race. 

"  Orush'd  race,  so  long  condemned  to  moan, 
Scorn'd,  rifled,  spiritless  and  lone, 
From  heathen  rites,  from  sorrow's  maze, 
Turn  to  our  temple  gates  with  praise  ! 
Yes,  come  and  bless  th'  usurping  band 
That  rent  away  your  father's  land ; 
Forgive  the  wrong,  suppress  the  blame. 
And  view  your  hope,  your  heaven,  the  same ! " 

New  York,  at  the  time  of  its  discovery  and  settlement,  says 
Campbell's  history,  was  inhabited  by  a  race  of  men,  distinguished, 
above  all  the  other  aborigines  of  the  continent,  for  their  intelligence 
and  prowess.  Five  distinct  and  independent  tribes,  speaking  a 
language  radically  the  same,  and  practising  similar  customs,  had 
imited  in  forming  a  confederacy,  which,  for  durability  and  power, 
was  unequalled  in  Indian  ^history.  They  were  the  Mohawks, 
Oneidas,  Onondagas,  Cayugas,  and  Senecas — called  the  Iroquois 
by  the  French,  and  the  Five  Nations  by  the  English.  In  cases 
of  great  emergency,  each  tribe  or  nation  acted  separately,  and 
independently  ;  but  a  general  council  usually  assembled  at  Onon- 
daga, near  the  centre  of  their  territory,  and  determined  upon 
peace  or  war,  and  all  other  matters  which  regarded  the  interests 
of  the  whole.  Acting  in^these  matters,  not  unlike  our  own 
Congress,  under  the  old  confederation.  They,  therefore,  who 
may  visit  the  present  Onondaga  and  vicinity,  may  regard  that 
region  of  country,  as  being  once  the  consecrated  ground,  and  the 
familiar  home,  of  a  now  vanished  people  ! 

They  carried  their  arms  into  Canada,  across  the  Connecticut, 
and  even  to  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  and  verging  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico. 

After  the  settlement  of  the  French  in  Canada,  in  1608,  and  at 
a  time  that  the  Five  nations  were  waging  a  desperate  war, — 


m  The  Indians. 

(long  continued,  at  intervals  of  time,)  with  the  Hurons  and  AI- 
gonquins,  settled  there,  and  assisted  by  the  French, — they  applied 
to  the  Dutch,  settled  at  Albany,  and  along  the  Hudson,  to  assist 
them  in  arms  and  ammunition, — whereby  a  strong  friendship 
was  created,  and  which  produced  a  long  and  sincere  attachment 
between  them.  During  this  period,  the  Dutch  traders  passed  up 
the  Mohawk  in  their  little  canoes,  and  carried  on,  for  many  years, 
a  profitable  barter  of  their  merchandize  and  munitions  of  war, 
for  the  peltry  of  the  Indians. 

When  the  English  came  to  the  government  of  the  province,  by 
the  conquest  of  1664,  they  exerted  themselves  to  acquire  and  pre- 
serve the  same  influence,  with  the  same  Indian  tribes.  Conventions 
were  therefore  frequently  held  at  Albany,  in  which  presents  and 
kindly  professions  were  liberally  bestowed.  In  the  mean  time, 
the  French  in  Canada,  endeavoured  to  counteract  this  English 
ascendency.  They  attacked  the  English  frontiers,  in  hopes,  by 
some  splendid  victory,  to  detach  the  Indians  from  their  friends. 
They  also  sent  Missionaries  among  them,  more  desirous  of  making 
allies  for  France,  than  converts  to  Christianity;  and  in  1671,  they 
persuaded  the  Caughnawagas  to  leave  their  settlements  on  the 
Mohawk,  and  to  establish  themselves  in  Canada. 

The  Dinondadies,  a  tribe  of  Canada,  in  alliance  with  France, 
having  treacherously  killed  several  of  the  Ambassadors  of  the 
Five  nations,  when  going  to  meet  them  in  Conference,  were 
visited  with  a  heavy  revenge.  About  twelve  hundred  warriors, 
of  the  Five  nations,  landed  at  Montreal  in  1688,  and  killed  about 
one  thousand  French.  The  French,  in  turn,  retaliated  by  making 
sundry  incursions  into  the  Indian  country :  burning  their  villages, 
&c.,  and  especially  in  1690,  a  combined  force  of  French  and  In- 
dians, succeeded  to  surprise  and  burn  the  town  of  Schenectady, 
in  the  dead  of  winter,  killing  about  sixty  of  the  inhabitants,  and 
dispersing  the  rest  under  circumstances  of  much  suflfering,  as  will 
be  found  stated  under  the  chapter  of  that  place. 

About  the  year  1701,  a  general  treaty  of  peace  was  made  be- 
tween the  French  and  the  Five  Nations,  which  put  an  end  to 
these  long  and  afilicting  wars. 

About  the  year  1712,  the  Monecons,  or  Tuscaroras,  an  Indian 
tribe  of  the  Carolinas,  came  from  that  country  and  joined  the 
Indian  confederacy,  and  thus  constituting  from  that  time,  the  Six 
Nations. 

As  the  French  never  abandoned  their  desire  to  attach  these  six 
nations  to  their  own  interests,  they  succeeded  in  time  to  attain 
sundry  indulgencies,  such  as  making  forts  in  their  territory,  for  the 
alleged  protection  of  their  trade  and  missions,  &c.  So  that  when 
the  last  French  war  broke  out,  in  1754,  the  four  western  tribes 
went  over  to  the  French,  and  took  up  the  hatchet  against  the 
English.  The  Indians,  however,  as  the  war  progressed,  seeing 
the  defeat  of  the  French  in  sundry  engagements,  had  many  of 


The  Indians.  119i 

them  returned,  before  the  close  of  the  war,  to  the  English,  by 
whom  they  were  agahi  received  as  allies.  In  these  results,  Sir 
Wm.  Johnson,  had  much  influence,  and  especially  by  his  victory 
over  the  Baron  Dieskau,  in  1757,  and  the  capture  of  Fort  Niagara. 

A  manuscript  journal,  kept  by  an  officer  in  Sullivan's  Expedi- 
tion, leads  us  into  an  insight  of  some  of  the  most  conspicuous 
localities  of  the  Indians,  viz  : 

At  CAemwn^,  where  they  destroyed  the  settlements  and  grain ; 
at  New  town  and  Butler^s  Creek,  they  destroyed  the  corn  and 
beans ;  at  Catharine's  town,  they  destroyed  the  com,  beans,  &c ; 
at  Jlpple-tree  town,  on  the  east  side  of  Setieca  lake,  destroyed 
houses  and  corn  fields. 

Kandaia, — a  fine  town,  half  a  mile  from  Cayuga  lake, — there 
found  a  great  plenty  of  old  apple  trees, — the  houses  large  and 
elegant,  some  beautifully  painted :  their  tombs  likewise,  especially 
those  of  their  chief  warriors,  were  beautifully  painted  boxes,  set 
over  their  graves,  made  of  planks  hewn  out  of  timber. 

Kanadaseago,  the  capital  of  the  Senecas,  near  the  north  end 
of  the  same  lake,  consisted  of  about  sixty  houses,  and  a  great 
plenty  of  apple  and  peach  trees, — destroyed  there  much  of  corn 
and  beans. 

Kashanguash, — about  eight  miles  south,  was  destroyed. 

Kanandagua,  at  the  outlet  of  a  small  lake,  had  about  twenty 
houses,  and  were  burned.  Some  of  these  houses  were  very  neat 
and  had  chimnies,  as  if  they  had  had  white  people  settled  among 
them. 

Hanneyaage,  lies  at  the  head  of  a  small  lake,  and  consisted  of 
thirteen  or  fourteen  good  houses,  neatly  built, — here  they  had 
much  corn  and  beans. 

Adjuton,  near  lake  Konyoughejough,  where  they  destroyed 
the  corn,  and  detached  Lieutenant  Boyd  with  his  riflemen,  to  re- 
connoitre the  next  town,  seven  miles  distant, — but  he  was  cut  off, 
in  his  return,  by  five  or  six  hundred  Indians,  under  Col.  Butler. 
[Lieut.  Boyd,  and  his  party,  were  exhumed  in  1840,  and  re- 
interred,  with  great  civic  and  military  honours,  at  Rochester 
Cemetery.]  Finally  arrived  at  the  flat,  on  which  stood  the 
Capital  of  the  Chenessee,  consisting  of  upwards  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  houses  and  vast  quantities  of  corn,  beans,  pumpkins, 
potatoes,  &c.  The  corn  was  gathered  into  the  houses,  and  the 
whole  consumed  together.  After  this,  the  army  took  up  its  return 
march — having  desolated  the  Indian  country, and  struck  terror  into 
the  Indians,  enough  to  incline  them  sufficiently  for  future  peace. 

The  chief  localities  of  the  Six  nations,  may  be  thus  described: 
The  Mohawks  dwelt  along  the  river  of  that  name.  The  Oneidas 
in  that  county,  on  the  south  side  of  the  lake  Oneida — Onondaga 
hollow  contains  some  of  those  Indians  still.  Cayuga  lake  and 
river,  mark  the  place  of  the  Cayugas.  A  few  Senecas,  still  linger 
about  their  old  home,  near  lake  Erie,  and  their  principal  village 


120  The  Indians. 

was  near  the  Genessee  river,  twenty  miles  from  Irondequoit  bay. 
The  Tuscaroras,  were  settled  about  Niagara.  In  the  town  of 
Pompey  is  a  very  extensive  Indian  Cemetery  of  bodies  laid  side 
by  side,  and  often  turned  up  by  the  plough.  The  great  Council 
of  the  Five  nations,  met  yearly  at  Onondaga.  The  Journal  of 
C.  F.  Post,  going  inland  from  Philadelphia,  to  meet  there,  is  a 
very  curious  history  of  such  inland  travelling,  by  Indian  paths, 
in  colonial  times. 

Besides  the  foregoing,  there  were  Indian  towns  of  magnitude, 
at  the  upper  and  lower  Mohawk  castles.  The  former  was  inhab- 
ited by  the  Onheskas.  There  were  also  the  Tuscarora  and 
Oneida  castles,  inhabited  by  friendly  Indians.  The  chief  of  these 
last,  Skanandoa  (i.  e.  light  footed  deer,)  was  a  remarkable  man, 
who  lived  to  be  an  hundred  and  ten  years  of  age,  and  lies  interred 
at  Clinton,  by  his  own  request.  His  father  lived  to  be  ninety-six 
years  old  at  the  Bouwlandt. 

The  country  of  the  Onondagas,  the  Cayugas,  and  the  Senecas, — 
the  three  western  tribes,  was  completely  overrun  and  laid  waste. 
A  part  only  of  the  Indians  ever  returned  to  their  old  settlements. 
Some  of  them  obtained  permission  to  locate  in  the  extreme 
western  part  of  the  state,  and  during  the  winter  of  1779-80,  they 
remained  in  and  about  Fort  Niagara,  where  from  eating  salt  pro- 
visions, they  took  the  scurvy,  and  died  in  great  numbers. 

In  contemplating  the  delightful  country  and  homes,  which  these 
Indians  were  thus  compelled  to  leave  forever,  and  under  such 
thorough  devastation,  as  to  destroy  all  their  *'  neat  houses^'  and 
"  cultivated  fields,",  we  cannot  but  reflect,  that  all  their  hostilities 
and  difficulties  with  us,  were  produced  by  the  sinister  designs  of 
white  men,  acting  deceptively  upon  their  simplicity  and  fears,  for 
their  own  selfish  ends.  With  good  men  and  true,  the  Indians 
were  always  just  and  friendly.  They  loved  and  confided,  with 
full  purpose  of  heart ;  they  coveted  nothing,  and  gave  freely ;  they 
hated  and  revenged  when  injured,  because  it  was  a  part  of  their 
religious  feeling  of  duty,  to  avenge  the  wrongs,  as  they  under- 
stood them,  when  inflicted  upon  any  branch  of  their  families. 
Severe  as  seemed  their  cruelties,  they  expected,  on  their  part,  to 
meet  retaliation  without  a  complaint.  Of  stern  virtues  they  had 
many,  many  which  could  have  been  usefully  learned  from  them, 
by  their  more  enlightened  white  men  !  It  would  be  for  our  own 
honours,  if  we  would,  even  now,  remember  with  better  feelings 
towards  them,  the  comforts  and  the  enjoyments  to  which  their 
lands  are  now  our  perpetual  contributors.  Let  none  go  over 
them  now,  in  easy  and  splendid  vehicles,  without  feeling  a  com- 
miseration for  "  the  poor  Indian,"  and  with  the  cherished  wish  to 
forget  their  faults,  and  to  rescue  and  build  up  once  more,  their 
now  degraded  and  wasting  population  ! 

Cordially  we  can  unite,  with  Mr.  Campbell,  in  his  history,  in 
saying,  "  when  we  look  over  these  lands,  once  the  domains  of  the 


The  Indians.  121 

proud  and  noble  Iroquois,  and  remember  how,  in  the  days  of  their 
glory,  they  defended  our  infant  colonies  from  the  ravages  of 
the  French,  and  contrast  their  former  state,  numerous,  powerful, 
and  respected,  with  their  present  condition,  *  scattered  and  peeled,' 
we  are  almost  ready  to  blot  out  the  record  of  their  cruelties." 
They,  like  ourselves,  it  should  be  remembered,  fought  for  "sweet 
country  and  home  !" 

"  Were  not  these  their  own  bright  waters  1 
*  Rear'd  they  not  their  own  red-brow'd  daughters, 
Where  Qur  princely  mansions  rise  1" 

With  the  same  intelligent  author  we  may  also  remark,  "  that  it 
is  by  no  means  to  be  considered  as  strange,  that  the  Indians,  and 
especially  the  Mohawks,  should  have  remained  attached  to  the 
British  crown,  though  earnestly  sued  by  us  to  participate  in  our 
cause  ;  for  they  had  always  been  well  furnished  by  that  govern- 
ment, with  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  with  arms  and  other 
munitions,  both  for  the  chase,  and  for  war ;  the  chain  of  friendship 
between  them  had  been  steadily  brightened,  for  more  than  one 
hundred  years."  The  Oneidas,  and  the  Tuscaroras,  alone  joined 
us,  and  since  then,  they  too,  have  fallen  far  below  our  best  wishes. 

To  the  foregoing  notices  of  the  Indians,  we  add  the  observa- 
tions and  remarks  made  by  Mrs.  Grant,  in  her  published  letters, 
made  by  her  on  the  spot,  in  the  colonial  times.  She  has  said  that 
"  the  Mohawks  were  deemed  the  wisest,  the  best,  and  the  most 
perfect  in  their  morals  and  conduct  of  all  the  Indians.  They 
were  always  greatly  attached  to  the  British  crown,  strictly  adher- 
ing to  the  same,  under  all  the  allurements  offered  by  the  French." 

She  had  been,  in  her  youth,  familiar  with  the  sight  of  many 
companies  of  friendly  Indians,  visiting  at  Schuyler's  flats,  above 
Albany.  While  there,  they  were  very  industrious  in  making 
baskets,  ladles,  spoons,  shovels,  rakes,  brooms,  belts,  moccasins, 
&c.,  mostly  made  by  the  women  and  children,  the  men  being 
abroad,  engaged  in  fishing,  and  smoking  their  sturgeons  and  eels, 
for  their  winter  use.  The  women  were  remarkably  amiable  and 
sagacious,  as  were  the  boys  also.  It  was  singular,  that  none  of 
the  females,  though  coloured  themselves,  could  ever  feel  any  kind 
of  fellowship  with  the  black  race,  then  much  employed  in  white 
families.  The  Indians  had  a  remarkable  facility  in  acquiring  any 
language. 

Such  Indians  as  came  thus  about  the  white  population,  were 
of  such  families  as  preferred  their  mode,  to  the  entire  forest  life, 
and  where  of  course  the  labour  of  tillage  devolved  wholly  on  the 
women,  who  were  wont  to  cultivate  corn,  beans,  and  tobacco  ; 
their  only  tools  were  the  hoe,  and  a  kind  of  wooden  spade.  The 
men  in  the  mean  time,  were  catching  and  drying  fish  by  the 
rivers  or  on  the  lakes.  The  younger  girls  were  much  busied,  in 
summer  and  autumn,  in  gathering  wild  fruits,  berries  and  grapes, 
16  L 


123  The  Indians. 

which  they  had  a  peculiar  mode  of  drying,  to  preserve  them  for 
the  winter  subsistence.  The  great  cranberry  they  gathered  in 
much  abundance.  The  girls,  in  childhood,  had  a  very  pleasing 
appearance,  had  fine  hair,  eyes,  and  teeth  ;  hardships  and  expo- 
sure, in  time,  of  course  broke  down  their  beauty.  They  married 
very  early,  and  as  a  Mohawk  had  no  other  help  or  servant  than 
his  wife,  she  had  necessarily  to  be  laboriously  employed.  The 
Shumack  shrub,  which  we  deem  to  be  poisonous,  they  used  in 
the  state  of  berries,  on  which  they  found  a  pungent  dust,  which 
was  at  once  saline  and  sour,  and  which  was  in  effect  the  salt  to 
their  food. 

The  Senecas,  with  their  euphonious  and  agreeable  name, 
were  naturally  the  most  severe  and  blood  thirsty  of  all  the  Indian 
tribes;  from  some  unexplained  cause,  they  were  always  most 
vindictive  and  ardent  in  their  spirit  of  revenge  and  hostility.  It 
is  from  such  a  race,  therefore,  that  we  should  soonest  look  for  the 
severities  and  successes  of  the  tomahawk  and  scalping  knife, 
weapons  of  peculiar  terror  and  disgust  to  the  white  race. 

Mr.  Dunlap,  in  his  history  of  New  York,  gives  as  one  of  the 
items  of  the  year  1756,  that  "  Robert  Hunter  Morris,  governor  of 
Pennsylvania,  offers  to  pay  for  every  Indian  male  enemy,  above 
twelve  years  of  age,  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars ;  for  the  scalps 
of  such,  one  hundred  and  thirty  dollars.  For  every  female  prisoner, 
or  boy  under  twelve,  one  hundred  and  thirty  dollars.  For  the 
scalp  of  an  Indian  woman,  fifty  dollars,'^  and  then  he  adds  a 
case  of  cruelty,  in  attempting  the  murder  of  a  friendly  Indian 
family  at  Pepeck,  in  Somerset,  New  Jersey,  with  a  design  to  take 
their  scalps  to  Pennsylvania  for  the  premiums.  He  concludes 
with  "  here  we  see  a  part  of  the  fruit  of  the  Pennsylvania  pro- 
clamation." "  The  Friendly  Association"  of  Philadelphia  was 
formed  in  that  year,  on  purpose  to  counteract  severe  measures, 
and  to  preserve  a  peace  with  the  Indians. 

Mr.  Dunlap,  I  presume,  took  the  case  as  he  found  the  offered 
reward  in  the  public  prints  of  the  time,  but  I  chance  to  know 
something  more  in  the  premises.  I  had  seen  the  manuscript 
minutes  of  Council  of  Pennsylvania,  and  it  is  due  to  truth  to  say, 
that  there  were  scruples  and  demurs  to  the  measure,  as  the  minutes 
show,  that  when  it  succeeded,  it  was  pressed  as  a  necessary 
retaliatory  operation,  to  quiet  the  frontier  people,  and  withal  it 
was  so  far  a  New  York  measure,  as  to  have  had  the  sanction  and 
expressed  wish  of  Sir.  Wm.  Johnson,  the  great  Indian  agent  and 
Indian'' s  friend,  acting  in  New  York  for  his  majesty's  service,  &c. 

The  minutes  of  Council  to  which  I  referred,  was  dated  the  6th 
of  July,  1764,  present,  John  Penn,  lieutenant  governor,  Thomas 
Cadwalader,  and  Richard  Penn,  Esq.  It  says :  "  The  same 
council  having  before  agreed  to  give  encouragement  for  a  more 
successful  war  on  the  frontiers,  it  was  agreed  to  give  a  reward  for 
scalps,  &c.,  (as  above),  provided  it  should  be  approved  by  Sir 


The  Indians.  123 

Wm.  Johnson.  His  answer  of  18th  June,  1764,  says,  *  I  cannot 
but  approve  of  your  desire  to  gratify  the  desires  of  the  people  in 
your  province,  by  a  bounty  on  scalps,  &c.,'  whereupon  they 
resolved  to  issue  a  proclamation  of  the  7th  July,  1764,  and  to 
publish  it  in  the  Gazette."  What  ever  resulted  from  it  does  not 
appear,  but  after  this,  I  saw  demurs  and  fears  expressed  by 
Conrad  Weiser  and  others,  to  the  council,  that  the  reward  would 
induce  even  friendly  Indians  to  kill  white  men  for  their  scalps. 
The  thing  seems  to  have  had  a  quiet  death,  and  to  have  sub 
silentio  passed  away. 

In  and  about  the  same  period  of  time,  and  possibly  preceding 
the  proclamation  of  Gov.  Morris,  "  i^ae.  famous  Captain  Rogers," 
acting  under  his  majesty's  commission,  on  the  frontiers  of  New 
York,  was  busily  taking  his  scalps,  and  at  the  same  time  the 
French  were  paying  for  all  scalps  brought  in  at  Fort  du  Quesne, 
on  the  Pennsylvania  frontier.     It  was  truly  a  barbarous  time  ! 

In  January,  1757,  the  aforesaid  Capt.  Rogers,  with  a  scouting 
party  of  only  thirty  men,  waylaid  a  French  convoy  of  sixty  sleighs, 
for  Crown  Point,  which  he  destroyed.  He  was  pursued  by  the 
garrison,  and  lost  twenty  of  his  men,  and  yet,  had  the  success  to 
bring  in  eighteen  scalps  ! 

This  Rogers,  afterwards  a  Major,  exalted  for  his  success  in 
cruel  things,  led  a  party  of  one  hundred  and  forty  men,  from 
Crown  Point,  in  the  year  1759,  against  the  Indian  town  of  St. 
Francis ;  he  found  the  unsuspecting  village  in  peace,  and  two 
hours  before  sunrise,  when  "  all  were  fast  asleep,"  he  fell  upon 
them,  killing  all  he  could,  and  then  set  fire  to  their  houses,  burn- 
ing therein  all  who  might  be  concealed  "  in  cellars  and  lofts ;" — 
he  killed  all,  save  about  twenty  of  their  women  and  children,  and 
these,  after  taking  them  some  distance,  he  turned  off  to  starve  or 
perish  in  the  woods,  because  he  was  expecting  a  surprise  from 
the  enemy ! 

This  hero  in  the  Indian  campaigns,  had  his  admirers  in  his 
day,  and  a  book  of  his  adventures  was  published.  At  one  time, 
in  the  height  of  his  renown,  he  got  into  the  New  York  prison  for 
debt,  and  was  said  to  have  prompted  some  of  his  soldiers  to  assault 
the  prison  for  his  release,  which  was,  however,  prevented  by  the 
interference  of  the  citizens. 

One  cannot  but  perceive  the  cold  blooded  apathy  with  which 
he  needlessly  massacred  helpless  women,  children,  and  aged.  He 
also  took  scalps  as  savagely  as  the  untutored  Indians  themselves. 
We  cannot  but  cherish  different  feelings  towards  the  Indians. 
They  were  human,  and  had  souls  like  ourselves.  In  the  pathetic 
language  of  Montgomery,  the  Indians  apostrophize  us,  and  say : — 

Art  thou  a  waman  ?  so  am  I,  and  all 
That  woman  can  be,  I  have  been,  or  am, 
A  daughter,  sister,  consort,  mother,  widow ! 


124  The  Indians. 

Or,  art  thou  a  man  ?  oh,  I  have  known,  have  loved 
And  lost  all  that  to  woman  man  can  be — 
A  father,  brother,  husband,  son,  who  shared 
My  bliss  in  freedom,  and  my  woe  in  bondage. 

It  was  the  custom  of  the  Mohawks,  and  probably  of  all  the 
tribes  of  the  Iroquois,  when  contemplating  a  military  expedition, 
to  make  a  representation  thereof,  by  painting  on  trees  or  rocks, 
the  figures  of  the  warriors,  with  hieroglyphics,  designating  the 
design  of  the  same.  When  they  went  by  water,  canoes  were 
painted,  and  as  many  figures  placed  in  them,  as  there  were  men 
constituting  the  party — their  faces  looking  toward  the  place 
whither  they  were  bound.  The  remains  of  such  a  painting  is 
still  to  be  seen  under  a  jutting  rock,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  village  of  Amsterdam.  It  was 
executed  about  the  year  1720,  to  express  a  purpose  of  the  Mo- 
hawks against  the  French.  It  was  done  with  red  chalk,  and 
represented  five  or  six  canoes,  with  six  or  seven  men  in  each. 

The  Indians,  in  forming  places  of  abode,  were  always  careful 
to  select  spots  in  the  neighbourhood  of  rivers,  lakes,  and  creeks. 
This,  because  they  there  expected  their  best  chances  for  food,  from 
fish  and  wild  fowl — there  too  would  come  the  deer  and  game, 
to  slake  their  thirst.  From  such  locations,  therefore,  it  was  but 
natural,  that  Indians  should  usually  designate  their  homes,  by  the 
names  of  the  streams  near  which  they  resided — thus  a  Connecti- 
cut Indian,  would  say  that  he  was  from  Connecticoota,  meaning 
the  "  Long  River." 

The  aborigines  not  only  built  their  wigwams,  and  kindled  their 
domestic  fires,  along  the  waters,  but  their  roads  and  other  paths, 
were  along  and  around  rivers,  creeks,  and  lakes.  Besides,  these 
localities  served  as  land  marks,  to  guide  them  in  their  travels, 
which  were  always  made,  of  choice,  on  foot. 

The  great  national  pathway  of  the  Iroquois,  may  be  thus  de- 
scribed— commencing  at  Schenectady,  it  ran  along  the  south  side 
of  the  Mohawk,  as  far  as  Wood  creek ;  from  thence,  there  were 
several  branches,  leading  to  the  settlements  of  the  different  tribes, 
residing  west  of  the  Mohawk.  There  was  also  a  branch  which 
crossed  that  river  at  Canajoharie,  and  extended  along  the  north 
side  of  that  river  to  Wood  creek,  where  it  joined  the  main  path- 
way. Portions  of  an  Indian  path,  leading  from  Schenectady  to 
the  Shatemuc,  or  North  river,  are  to  be  seen  at  the  present  day. 
This  path  touched  Hunger  hill,  a  branch  of  the  Towassantha, 
or  Norman's  kill,  and  part  of  the  way  passed  over  the  land  now 
occupied  by  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  rail-road  company.  There 
were  two  paths  leading  from  Schenectady  to  Nachtenac,  (now 
Watervliet  and  Waterford,)  one  on  the  north  and  one  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Mohawk.  At  the  eastern  extremities  of  the  Toueri- 
oone  Hills  in  Woostina,  a  path  commenced,  and  went  along  the 
northern  bounds  of  the  Schenectady  patent  to  Saraghtoga  lake. 


The  Indians.  125 

Nachtenac  and  Saraghtoga  lakes,  were  frequented  by  the  Indians 
for  the  purposes  of  angUng.  The  path  to  Canada,  from  Sche- 
nectady, led  past  Sanders'  lake,  Long  lake,  Saraghtoga  lake.  Lake 
George,  and  Lake  Champlain.  The  Canada  creeks,  east  and 
west,  were  both  so  called,  because  paths  led  from  these  creeks  to 
Canada. 

David  Cusick  was  an  educated  Indian,  the  son  of  a  Captain 
Cusick  of  the  British  army,  who  served  imder  Sir  Wm.  Johnson 
in  the  French  war.  His  mother  was  the  daughter  of  a  chief  of 
the  Tuscarora  tribe.  David  received  the  elements  of  his  educa- 
tion in  Schenectady,  in  Mr.  Martin's  school.  He  is  said  to  have 
written  a  book  of  the  history  of  the  Six  Nations,  about  the  year 
1779,  but  we  know  of  none,  who  can  now  say  where  it  may  be 
foimd.  The  Tuscaroras  together  with  the  Oneidas,  were  the  firm 
allies  of  the  Americans  in  the  Revolution,  and  had  taken  up  their 
quarters  on  the  brow  of  Albany  hill,  near  where  the  turnpike 
now  runs.  They  occasionally  accompanied  our  troops,  in  sundry 
campaigns,  and  were  particularly  useful  as  scouts.  In  the  numer- 
ous expeditions  undertaken  by  the  Schenectady  militia,  to  the 
Heldeberg,  Beaverdam,  and  other  places  infested  by  tories,  they 
took  an  active  part. 

Mrs.  Catharine  Brant,  the  wife  of  Brant  the  sachem,  was  a 
princess  of  remarkable  character,  who  died  at  the  age  of  seventy- 
eight,  in  the  year  1837,  at  the  Mohawk  village,  on  the  Grand 
river  in  Upper  Canada.  She  was  the  third  wife  of  that  dis- 
tinguished chieftain,  and  had  in  her  own  right,  the  headship  of  the 
Six  Nations — so  that  at  the  time  of  Brant's  death,  in  1807,  she 
had  the  right,  in  her  own  person,  to  name  his  successor,  which 
she  did  in  her  own  son,  John  Brant — the  same  who  died  of  Cholera 
in  1832.  Mrs.  Brant  was  a  true  Mohawk  in  her  Indian  attach- 
ments and  feelings,  and  preferred  a  residence  with  her  nation,  to 
one  with  her  daughter,  Mrs.  Col.  Wm.  J.  Kerr,  of  Brant  House, 
Wellington  Square.  Her  son  John,  before  named,  was  an  edu- 
cated gentleman,  well  received  in  the  best  company  in  London, 
and  had  a  very  particular  and  lengthened  letter,  from  Campbell  the 
poet,  recanting  sundry  of  his  severe  reflections  upon  the  chieftain 
Brant,  and  his  alleged  barbarities  in  the  massacre  of  Wyoming, 
about  which  he  acknowledged  that  he  had  no  certain  information, 
upon  which  to  inculpate  him  personally. 

Mary  Jamison,  the  "white  woman,'^  became  a  remarkable  per- 
sonage in  her  connection  and  influence  with  the  Indians  of  the 
Genessee  country.  She  was  originally  of  Irish  parentage — was 
born  at  sea,  on  her  passage  to  this  country  in  1742 — her  parents 
being  settled  on  the  frontiers  of  Pennsylvania,  in  the  time  of 
Braddock's  defeat,  in  1755.  Her  family  was  murdered  by  the 
Senecas — herself  was  spared  and  brought  away — was  adopted 
and  finally  married  to  a  Seneca  chief.  While  living  in  the  Genes- 
see  valley,  in  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  her  house  was  the 

L  2 


IM  The  Indians, 

quarters  of  Brant  and  Butler.  Her  life,  full  of  incident  and  ad- 
venture, was  taken  down  in  writing  in  1823.  She  finally  became 
rich  among  the  whites,  by  having  conceded  to  her  the  Gardow 
Reservation  of  ten  thousand  acres.  She  left  an  educated  family, 
and  one  of  her  sons  was  made  a  surgeon  in  our  navy.  She  her- 
self, died  in  1833,  at  ninety  years  of  age.  Her  character  was 
good — her  feelings  humane  and  benevolent.  She  never  gave  up 
her  Indian  habits,  customs,  or  dress,  but  to  the  last,  sustained  the 
characteristics  of  an  Indian  Queen.  She  had  travelled  a  great 
deal  in  Indian  enterprises,  and  sometimes  acted  as  Interpreter. 
Her  name  as  the  "  white  woman,"  was  universally  known  and 
reverenced  among  the  Indians. 

Another  remarkable  character  among  the  Indians  was  the  cele- 
brated Oneida  chief  Skenandoa.  He  died  in  1816,  at  the  extreme 
age  of  one  hundred  and  ten  years,  and  was  interred  at  his  request, 
at  Clinton,  along  side  of  the  grave  of  his  minister.  Dr.  Kirkland,the 
Missionary,  saying  "  he  wished  to  be  able  to  lay  hold  of  his  skirts 
in  the  resurrection."  Having  heard  from  my  kinsman,  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Backus,  who  conducted  his  funeral,  several  particulars  of  this 
eminent  chief,  I  shall  here  relate  them  as  worthy  of  record  and 
remembrance.  He  had  been  for  some  years  blind,  and  in  prepa- 
ration for  death,  had  procured  and  kept  his  grave  clothes  ready 
for  that  event.  On  one  occasion  when  visited,  he  thus  beautifully 
and  poetically  discoursed  of  his  long  life,  and  the  scenes  and 
changes  he  had  witnessed,  saying  "I  am  an  aged  hemlock, 
withered  at  the  top,  in  whose  branches  have  whistled  the  winds 
of  an  hundred  winters.  The  generation  to  which  I  belonged 
have  run  away  from  me,  and  the  Great  Spirit  only  knows,  why 
I  should  remain  !"    Such  language  is,  we  think,  equal  to  Ossian's. 

In  his  person  he  was  tall,  brawny,  and  well  made — his  counte- 
nance was  intelligent  and  beaming  with  dignity.  In  youth  he 
was  brave  and  intrepid  as  a  warrior — ^in  his  riper  years  he  was 
sagacious  as  a  counsellor.  Though  terrible  in  war,  he  was  bland 
and  mild  as  the  zephyr  in  peace.  He  was  the  white  man's 
abiding  friend.  He  watched  and  repelled  Canadian  invasions. 
His  vigilance  and  good  conduct  saved  many  lives  in  the  infant 
settlements  along  the  German  Flats,  and  he  served  us  faithfully, 
with  his  tribe,  in  the  Revolutionary  war.  Individuals  and 
villages,  have  repeatedly  expressed  their  gratitude  for  his  friendly 
and  available  interpositions.  The  memory  of  such  deserve  regard. 
Let  his  monument  at  Clinton  be  remembered ! 

Of  the  many  tribes  of  Indians  once  on  Long  Island — once  thir- 
teen in  number,  there  now  only  remains  one — say  that  of  the 
Montauks.  Fifteen  or  twenty  individuals  of  these  still  linger 
"  wretched  and  forlorn,"  about  the  homes  of  their  fathers,  they 
being  settled  on  a  promontory,  at  the  east  part  of  the  Island,  called 
Montauk  point.  They  subsist  by  fishing  and  cultivating  a  little 
land,  living  out  an  indolent  and  pensive  state  of  existence,  as  if 


The  Indians.  127 

pondering  over  the  sense  of  their  fallen  dependent  state,  and  re- 
garding themselves  as  the  last  of  the  race. 

In  November,  1839,  King  David,  (known  mostly  as  Hannibal,) 
with  his  squaw,  dwelling  at  East  Hampton,  Long  Island,  were 
burned  to  death  in  their  wigwam.  Thus  perished  the  last  of  the 
royal  line  of  the  Montauks — long  since  dwindled  down  to  a  few 
basket  making,  miserable  half  breeds.  "  What  a  falling  off  was 
there !"  Think  of  the  race  of  the  aboriginal  owners,  now  so 
poor,  debased,  and  scouted  as  "  none  to  do  them  reverence,"  even 
so  near  the  great  metropolitan  city,  filled  with  wealth  and  luxury ! 
The  last  of  the  Pequots,  died  in  1842,  at  New  London,  in  the 
person  of  Grace  Pomham,  in  the  eighty-second  year  of  her  age — 
a  very  respectable  woman.     " Lo  the  poor  Indian!"' 

"  Oh !  who  can  tell  the  story  of  their  wrongs  ? 
The  tale  to  history  or  to  God  belongs. 
We  seized  their  lands,  drove  back  their  council  fires, 
And  plough'd  the  dust  that  lay  upon  their  sires — 
Entrapp'd  by  treaties,  driven  forth  to  range 
The  distant  west  in  misery  and  revenge." 

Contemplating  the  Indians  as  ruined,  and  as  fallen  from  their 
first  estate  by  the  influence  of  the  dreadful  "  fire-water,"  we  are 
here  reminded  of  Mrs.  Sigourney's  description  of  the  first  cup  of 
evil,  presented  to  the  unsuspecting  natives,  on  the  visit  of  Captain 
Hudson  to  Albany,  in  1609. 

"  They  throng  that  water  bird  to  view. 
Whose  mighty  wings  that  near  the  shore, 
Perchance,  their  great  Manitto  bore 

*  *  *  # 

But  by  what  gifts,  what  token  strong 
Did  Europe's  sons,  renowned  in  song 
Mark  their ^rs^  visit  to  the  child 
Of  simple  faith  and  daring  wild  ? 

"  A  cup  ! — a  cup  ! — ^but  who  may  tell 
What  deadly  drugs  within  it  swell  ] 
Type  of  the  woes  that  soon  must  sweep 
Their  blasted  race  away, 
Down  to  oblivion,  dark  and  deep 
With  none  their  hopeless  wrongs  to  weep, 
Or  mourn  their  sad  decay." 

Depressed  and  fallen  as  are  the  Indian  race,  they  still  present 
a  formidable  whole,  when  aggregated,  as  has  been  our  policy 
with  them  on  our  Western  frontiers.  There  they  may  yet  be 
induced  to  combine  and  concentrate  their  force,  if  hereafter  made 
our  enemies,  either  by  foreign  policy,  or  by  a  sense  of  aggregated 
power,  and  so  to  give  us  much  annoyance.  It  certainly  behooves 
us  to  conciliate  their  feelings,  and  to  promote  amicable  relations. 
We  state  from  official  documents  of  1838,  when  we  give  the  sum 
of  their  whole  force  at  332,500  souls  :  and  if  we  assume,  that 
every  fifth  person  may  be  considered  a  warrior,  we  may  conclude 


128  The  Indians. 

that  we  may  have  an  array  of  66,000  fighting  men  against  us, 
whenever  they  may  be  incited  to  remember  former  severities,  or 
their  too  often  constrained  removals  from  their  former  homes. 
The  facts  are  these, — viz  : 

The  number  of  the  Indians  east  of  the  Mississippi  amount  to 
49,365,  of  which  the  following  are  under  treaty  stipulations  to 
remove  to  the  west  of  the  Mississippi,  to  wit :  The  Winnebagoes, 
4500;  Ottawas  of  Ohio,  100;  Pattawatamies  of  India) la,.  19 50; 
Chippewas,  Ottawas  and  Pattawatamies,  1500;  Cherokees, 
14,000;  Creeks,  1000;  Chickasaws,  1000;  Seminoles,  5000; 
Apalachicolas,  400 ;  Ottawas  and  Chippewas  in  Michigan,  6,500; 
total,  36,950.  Those  not  under  treaty  to  remove,  amount  to 
12,415,  viz:  New  York  Indians,  4,176;  Wyandots,  575; 
Miamies,  1100;  Meno monies,  4000;  Ottawas  and  Chippewas 
of  the  lakes,  2,564. 

The  number  of  Indians  who  have  emigrated  from  the  east  to 
the  west  of  the  Mississippi,  is  51,327,  to  wit :  Chickasaws,  549  ; 
Chippewas,  Ottawas  and  Pattawatamies,  2,191  ;  Chocktaws, 
15,000;  Quapaws,  476;  Creek,  476;  Seminoles,  407;  Apala- 
chicolas,  265;  Cherokees,  7,911;  Kickapoos,  588;  Delawares, 
826  ;  Shawnees,  1,272  ;  Ottawas,  374  ;  Weas,  222  ;  Piankashaws, 
162;  Peorias  and  Kaskaskias,  132;  Pattawatamies  of  Indiana, 
53  ;  Senecas,  251  ;  Senecas  and  Shawnees,  211. 

The  number  of  the  indigenous  tribes  within  striking  distance 
of  the  western  frontier  is  231,806  ;  to  be  enumerated  thus,  to  wit  : 
Sioux,  21,600;  lowas,  1,500;  Sacs,  4,800 ;  Foxes,  1,600;  Sacs 
of  Missouri,  500 ;  Osages,  5,120;  Canzas^  1,606;  Omahas,  1,600; 
Ottoes  and  Missourias,  1000;  Pawnees,  12,500;  Camanches, 
19,200;  Kiowazes,  2,800;  Mandans,  3,200;  Quapaws,  450; 
Minaterees,  2000;  Pagans,  80,000;  Assineboins,  15,000;  Ap- 
paches,  20,280  ;  Crees,  3000  ;  Arrepahas,  3000  ;  Grosventres, 
16,800  ;  Eutaws,  19,200 ;  Crows,  7,200 ;  Caddoes,  2000;  Poncas, 
900  ;  Arickarees,  2,750  ;  Cheyennes,  3,200  ;  Blackfeet,  30,000. 

There  may  be  a  Providence,  working  for  their  good,  in  our 
thus  concentrating  them  in  the  far  west.  There  they  may  respect 
themselves,  and  avow  their  power  to  exact  terms  of  independence, 
which  may  eventuate  in  their  self-preservation  by  their  admission 
of  the  arts  and  benefits  of  civilization.  We  wish  them  nothing 
but  good  ;  and  would  cherish  towards  them  nothing  but  kindly 
feelings  and  regard.  As  enemies  they  could  give  calls  for 
numerous  and  expensive  military  forces  to  keep  them  in  check  ! 

The  remains  of  fortifications  found  in  the  Indian  country,  and 
of  such  antiquity,  as  to  be  beyond  their  knowledge  of  their  origin, 
— are  very  numerous  and  remarkable,  in  the  interior  of  New 
York. 

In  Pompey,  Onondago  County,  are  vestiges  of  a  town  of  five 
hundred  acres,  protected  by  three  forts,  eight  miles  apart.  At 
Camillus,  in  the  same  county,  are  remains  of  two  forts :  one  on  a 


Steamboats.  129 

very  high  hill,  covering  about  three  acres,  with  a  deep  ditch,  and 
a  wall  of  ten  feet.  The  other  half  a  mile  off,  is  on  lower  ground. 
Pottery  and  pieces  of  brick,  have  been  found  here.  On  the  east 
side  of  Seneca,  is  some  defensive  remains,  with  ditches,  &c.,  all 
now  covered  with  trees  of  great  age.  Fortifications  have  been 
traced  eighteen  miles  from  Manlius  square.  On  the  east  bank 
of  Chenago  river,  are  the  remains  of  a  fort  of  great  antiquity.  At 
Sandy  creek,  fourteen  miles  from  Sacketts  harbour,  is  one  cover- 
ing fifty  acres,  and  has  much  fragments  of  pottery.  Going  west- 
ward we  find  many :  one  in  the  town  of  Onondago,  one  in  Scipio, 
two  in  Auburn,  three  near  Canandaigua,  and  several  between 
Seneca  and  Cayuga  lakes.  Several  have  been  discovered  in 
Ridgeway,  in  Genessee  county.  Near  the  Tonewanda  creek,  at 
the  double  fortified  town,  so  called,  are  the  remains  of  two  forts, 
being  two  miles  apart,  and  severally  at  the  two  ends  of  the  an- 
cient town,  as  minutely  traced  and  described  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Kirkland,  the  missionary.  On  the  south  side  of  Lake  Erie,  are 
a  series  of  old  forts,  from  the  Cattaragus  creek  to  the  Pennsyl- 
vania line,  a  distance  of  fifty  miles.  Some  are  from  two  to  four 
miles  apart,  and  some  but  half  a  mile  only.  These  ancient  re- 
mains, so  numerous  in  western  New  York,  proceed  from  thence, 
and  pass  down  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  onward  toward 
Mexico. 
Surely  our  country,  and  its  aboriginals,  is  a  wonderful  enigma! 

"  Slipt  from  the  secret  hand  of  Providence, 

They  come,  we  see  not  how,  nor  know  we  whence ! " 

If  they  are  indeed  the  lost  tribes  of  Israel,  far  hence  they 
wandered  "  into  lands  they  had  not  known"  indeed!  and  signifi- 
cantly enough  may  they  have  fulfilled  the  word  of  the  Lord,  by 
Jeremiah  xxxi.  30,  saying,  "  set  thee  up  way  marks,  make  thee 
high  heaps  (high  earth  mounds,  as  in  Ohio,  &c.,)  —  set  thee 
towards  the  high  way,  so  that  by  the  way  thou  wentest,  turn 
again  .' "     Will  any  expect  this  ! 


STEAMBOATS. 

Against  the  winds,  against  the  tide, 
She  breasts  the  wave  with  upright  keel. 

New  York  is  deservedly  distinguished  as  being  the  first  of  our 
American  cities  which  saw  the  successful  use  of  steamboat  power 
upon  its  waters.  Philadelphia  had  indeed  beheld  the  efforts  of 
Fitch's  steamboat  as  early  as  1788;  but  as  it  was  not  brought 
into  any  effective  operation  under  his  management,  the  invention 
slumbered  until  it  was  brought  out  successfully  in  the  year  1807, 
under  the  direction  and  genius  of  the  distinguished  Fulton.     At 

17 


1 30  Steamboats. 

that  time  he  demonstrated  the  important  fact,  tliat  the  Hudson 
could  be  navigated  by  steam  vessels ;  having  shown  to  the 
astonished  citizens,  his  companions  in  a  voyage  to  Albany,  that 
his  first  boat  made  her  trip  in  thirty  hours  ;  a  time  indeed  nearly 
three  times  as  long  as  now  required,  but  triumphantly  evidencing 
to  the  incredulous  a  new  era  in  the  creative  powers  of  man. 

Most  amazing  invention !  from  a  cause  now  so  obvious  and 
familiar.  It  is  only  by  applying  the  principle  seen  in  every 
house,  which  lifts  the  lid  of  the  tea  kettle  and  "  boils  over,"  that 
machines  have  been  devised  which  can  pick  up  a  pin  or  rend  an 
oak ;  which  combine  the  power  of  many  giants  with  the  plasticity 
that  belongs  to  a  lady's  fair  fingers  ;  which  can  spin  cotton  and 
then  weave  it  into  cloth ;  and  which,  amidst  a  long  list  of  other 
marvels,  "  engraves  seals,  forges  anchors,  and  lifts  a  ship  of  war 
like  a  bawble  in  the  air ;"  presenting  in  fact  to  the  imagination, 
the  practicability  of  labour-saving  inventions  in  endless  variety  : 
so  that  in  time,  man  through  its  aid  shall  half  exempt  himself 
from  "  the  curse,"  and  preachers  through  steam-press  printing, 
shall  find  an  auxiliary  efiecting  more  than  half  their  work. 

One  whose  genius  has  done  so  much  for  his  country  as  Fulton's, 
deserves  to  be  well  known  to  her  sons;  we  therefore  take  a 
mournful  pleasure  in  repeating  the  facts  as  told  to  us  by  Judge 
Story,  of  the  discouragements  and  incredulity  against  which  it 
was  at  first  the  labour  of  Fulton  to  wend  his  way.  I  myself 
(said  the  Judge)  have  heard  the  illustrious  inventor  relate,  in  an 
animated  and  affecting  manner,  the  history  of  his  labours  and 
discouragements: — "When  (said  he)  I  was  building  my  first 
steamboat  at  New  York,  the  project  was  viewed  by  the  public 
either  with  indifference  or  with  contempt  as  a  visionary  scheme. 
My  friends  indeed  were  civil,  but  they  were  shy.  They  listened 
with  patience  to  my  explanations,  but  with  a  settled  cast  of 
incredulity  on  their  countenances.  I  felt  the  full  force  of  the 
lamentation  of  the  poet, — 

"Truths  would  you  teach,  to  save  a  sinking  land, 
All  shun  J  none  aid  ynu,  and  few  understdnd." 

As  I  had  occasion  to  pass  daily  to  and  from  the  building  yard 
while  my  boat  was  in  progress,  I  have  often  loitered  unknown 
near  the  idle  groups  of  strangers  gathering  in  little  circles,  and 
heard  various  inquiries  as  to  the  object  of  this  new  vehicle.  The 
language  was  uniformly  that  of  scorn,  sneer,  or  ridicule.  The 
loud  laugh  rose  at  my  expense,  the  dry  jest,  the  wise  calculation 
of  losses  and  expenditures  ;  the  dull  but  endless  repetition  of  the 
Fulton  folly.  Never  did  a  single  encouraging  remark,  a  bright 
hope,  or  a  warm  wish,  cross  my  path.  Silence  itself  was  but 
politeness  veiling  its  doubts  or  hiding  its  reproaches.  At  length 
the  day  arrived  when  the  experiment  was  to  be  got  into  opera- 
tion.   To  me  it  was  a  most  trying  and  interesting  occasion,    I 


Steamboats.  131 

invited  many  friends  to  go  on  board  to  witness  the  first  successful 
trip.  Many  of  them  did  me  the  favour  to  attend  as  a  matter  of 
personal  respect;  but  it  was  manifest  they  did  it  with  reluctance, 
fearing  to  be  partners  of  my  mortification  and  not  of  my  triumph. 
I  was  well  aware  that  in  my  case  there  were  many  reasons  to 
doubt  of  my  own  success.  The  machinery  (like  Fitch's  before 
him)  was  new  and  ill  made ;  and  many  parts  of  it  were  con- 
structed by  mechanics  imacquainted  with  such  work,  and  unex- 
pected difficulties  might  reasonably  be  presumed  to  present 
themselves  from  other  causes.  The  moment  arrived  in  which 
the  word  was  to  be  given  for  the  vessel  to  move.  My  friends 
were  in  groups  on  the  deck.  There  was  anxiety  mixed  with  fear 
among  them.  They  were  silent,  sad,  and  weary.  I  read  in  their 
looks  nothing  but  disaster,  and  almost  repented  of  my  efforts. 
The  signal  was  given,  and  the  boat  moved  on  a  short  distance 
and  then  stopped,  and  became  immoveable.  To  the  silence  of  the 
preceding  moment  now  succeeded  murmurs  of  discontent,  and 
agitations  and  whispers,  and  shrugs.  I  could  hear  distinctly 
repeated,  "  I  told  you  it  was  so ;  its  a  foolish  scheme ;  I  wish 
we  were  well  out  of  it."  I  elevated  myself  upon  a  platform  and 
addressed  the  assembly.  I  stated  that  I  knew  not  what  was  the 
matter ;  but  if  they  would  be  quiet  and  indulge  me  for  half  an 
hour,  I  would  either  go  on  or  abandon  the  voyage  for  that  time. 
This  short  respite  was  conceded  without  objection.  I  went 
below  and  examined  the  machinery,  and  discovered  that  the 
cause  was  a  slight  maladjustment  of  some  of  the  work.  In  a  short 
period  it  was  obviated.  The  boat  was  again  put  in  motion.  She 
continued  to  move  on.  All  were  still  incredolous.  None  seemed 
willing  to  trust  the  evidence  of  their  own  senses. 


Fulton's  Steamer. 


We  left  the  fair  city  of  New  York ;  we  passed  through  the 
romantic  and  evervarying  scenery  of  the  Highlands ;  we  descried 
the  clustering  houses  of  Albany;  we  reached  its  shores;  and 


1 32  fVaiering-places. 

then,  even  then,  when  all  seemed  achieved,  I  was  the  victim  of 
disappointment.  Imagination  superseded  the  influence  of  fact. 
It  was  then  doubted  if  it  could  be  done  again,  or  if  done,  it  was 
doubted  if  it  could  be  made  of  any  great  value."  Such  is  the 
graphic  history  of  the  first  experiment;  a  memorable  and  mo- 
mentous epoch.  How  affecting  and  exciting  to  the  inventor  in 
that  anxious  and  perilous  moment  of  trial.  We  regret  to  add 
that  he  did  not  live  to  enjoy  the  full  glory  and  reward  of  his 
invention.  He  saw  his  rights  both  as  to  merit  and  reward  dis- 
puted ;  but  now  the  whole  world  awards  the  meed  of  praise  to 
this  noblest  benefactor  of  the  human  race.  From  his  struggles 
against  impediments,  and  his  final  triumph  over  incredulity  and 
discouragement,  let  other  great  geniuses  take  lasting  courage,  and 
make  perseverance  to  the  end  their  cheering  and  sustaining  motto. 


WATEKING-PLACES. 

"  And  when  loo  much  repose  brings  on  the  spleen, 
And  the  gay  city's  idle  pleasures  cloy, 
Swift  as  my  changing  wish,  I  change  the  scene, 
And  now  the  country,  now  the  town  enjoy." 

The  practice  of  summer  travelling  among  the  gentry  and  their 
imitators,  is  quite  a  modern  affair.  Our  forefathers,  when  our 
cities  were  small,  foimd  no  places  more  healthy  or  attractive  than 
their  homes ;  and  generally  they  liked  the  country  best  "  when 
visited  from  town."  From  that  cause  there  were  very  few 
country-seats  in  existence ;  and  what  there  were,  were  so  near  as 
to  be  easily  visited  on  foot,  "  not  for  the  good  and  friendly  too 
remote"  to  call. 

As  population  and  wealth  increased,  new  devices  of  pleasure 
were  formed,  and  some  inland  watering-places  began  to  be 
visited,  chiefly,  however,  at  first  for  the  benefit  they  might  be 
supposed  to  confer  upon  the  infirm.  Next  in  order  came  sea 
bathing,  most  generally  used  at  first  by  the  robust ;  by  those  who 
could  rough  it ;  such  as  could  depend  upon  their  own  supply  of 
"  small  stores,"  and  sheets,  blankets,  &c.  Increase  of  such  com- 
pany in  time  afl'orded  sufficient  motive  to  residents  on  the  favour- 
ite beaches  to  make  such  provision  for  transient  visitors  as  could 
not  conveniently  make  their  own  supply.  Thus,  yearly,  such 
places  of  resort  grew  from  little  to  greater,  and  by  degrees  to 
luxury  and  refinement.  It  is  still,  however,  within  the  memory 
of  several  of  the  aged,  when  the  concomitants  of  sea-bathing, 
before  the  revolution,  were  rough  as  its  own  surges ;  and  for  that 
very  reason  produced  better  evidences  of  positive  benefits  to 
visiters  in  the  increase  of  robust  feelings  than  they  do  now. 


Wateriiig-places,  133 

"The  dash  of  ocean  on  the  winding  shore — 
How  does  it  cheer  the  citizen, 
And  brace  his  languid  frame  ! 

In  this  way  we  have  seen  the  rise  of  Rockaway  house  and 
shore  on  Long  Island ;  of  Brighton  house  near  Amboy ;  and 
last,  but  greatest  in  fame  and  company,  Long  Branch.  This 
last  was  held  before  the  revolution  by  Col.  White,  a  British  officer 
and  an  inhabitant  of  New  York  city.  The  small  house  which 
he  owned  and  occupied  as  a  summer  retreat,  is  still  existing  in 
the  clump  now  much  enlarged  by  Renshaw.  In  consequence  of 
the  war,  the  place  was  confiscated  and  fell  into  other  hands,  and 
finally  for  the  public  good.  In  1790-1  it  was  purchased  and  fit- 
ted up  in  improved  style  for  boarders  by  Mr.  McNight,  who 
enriched  himself  to  withdraw  and  sell  out  to  Renshaw. 

Prior  to  that  period  "  Black  Point,'^  not  far  off,  was  the  place 
of  bathing.  They  had  no  surf  there,  and  were  content  to  bathe 
in  a  kind  of  water-house,  covered.  The  tavern  fare  there  was 
quite  rude  compared  with  present  Long  Branch  luxuries.  Cocoa- 
nut  pudding  and  floating  islands,  &c.,  were  delicacies  not  even 
known  in  our  cities. 

Indeed  we  cannot  but  see,  that  the  most  of  former  summer  ex- 
cursions were  but  for  the  men.  They  were  generally  deemed 
too  distant  and  rough  for  female  participation.  But  later  improve- 
ments in  conveyances  and  accommodations  have  brought  in  their 
full  measure  of  ladies,  gladdening  the  company  at  every  place  by 
those  feminine  attractions  which  lessen  our  cares  and  double  our 
joys. 

In  the  progress  of  wealth  and  luxury,  the  last  device  of  plea- 
sure has  been  the  general  practice  of  travelling  excursions,  now 
*«  boxing  the  compass"  to  every  point.  The  astonishingly  in- 
creased facilities  of  communications,  have  diminished  distances. 
Steam-boats  transfer  us  to  far  distant  places,  before  we  have  fairly 
tried  the  varieties  of  a  single  day  and  night  of  their  operation. 
Post  coaches  and  fleet  horses  roll  us  as  easy  as  if  on  our  couches. 
New  England  and  northern  tours  occur ;  the  Grand  Canal  and 
Niagara  are  sought;  Carbon  Dale,  the  Morris  Canal,  Catskill 
Mountain-house,  and  the  everlasting  battlements  of  the  basaltic 
rocks  along  the  North  River,  form  now  the  chief  attractions. 
Along  the  base  of  these  they  glide,  whilst  wending  their  way  to 
the  crowds  and  festivities  found  at  Balls  ton  and  Saratoga  Springs. 
There  the  pine  and  sandy  plains  are  made  animate  by  the  city 
throng.  The  same  wilds  which  were  overrun  by  assaulting 
savages  in  1745,  killing  and  bearing  off"  ninety  of  the  country  in- 
habitants, is  now  made  the  head-quarters  of  pomp  and  fashioiv 

The  rage  for  travelling  and  public  amusements  is  a  topic  upon 
which  we  feel  prone  to  moralize.  In  the  growing  passion  for 
this  fashionable  mode  of  expenditure,  we  see  a  marked  departure 
tVom  the  simplicity,  frugahty,  and  industry  of  our  forefathers  ;  a 

M 


134  Watering-places. 

breaking  up  of  their  good  old  home  habits ;  an  infraction  of  our 
professions  as  a  plain  republican  people,  whose  rule  is  "  modera- 
tion in  all  things.'^ 

If  only  the  rich  did  this,  all  would  be  well.  They  thus  benefit 
others  and  possibly  do  not  injure  themselves.  Their  restlessness 
may  be  as  great  a  benefit  to  the  community  as  the  motions  of 
Prince  Esterhazy,  at  whose  every  step,  pearls  drop  from  his  gar- 
ments. But  are  there  not  too  many  of  those  who  aim  to  imitate 
them,  who  can  ill  sustain  the  loss  of  time  and  expense  ?  Do  we 
not  often  meet  with  families  forsaking  the  shades  and  coolness  of 
home  for  the  dense  and  heated  mass  of  steam-boats,  worrying 
and  distressing  themselves  "to  be  in  the  fashion?"  They  have 
fired  their  imaginations  with  the  recitals  of  former  visiters ;  have 
heard  them  talk  of  Lake  George  crystals;  of  Canadian  music 
and  British  officers;  of  the  "dark  blue  Ontario"  with  its  beautiful 
little  brood  of  lakelets.  Some  resolve  to  go  to  Quebec,  just  to 
show  they  have  "  as  good  a  right"  to  see  "  good  society"  and  the 
world  around  them,  as  their  neighbours.  Some,  too,  go  because 
travelling  is  "  so  rapid  and  cheap."  They  see  all  kinds  of  cha- 
racters on  the  move  for  fashionable  resorts,  and  they  must  join 
the  throng,  and  "  be  like  others."  But  here  comes  the  rub : 
where  is  the  motive  for  patient  industry  and  careful  economy, 
when  the  savings  of  a  month  are  spent  in  one  trip  to  Saratoga  or 
Trenton  Falls  ? 

Some,  it  is  true,  do  really  travel  for  their  health,  but  they 
should  generally  set  out  with  a  good  supply  aforehand,  or  they 
may  return  from  a  losing  voyage.  Some  go  for  information,  but 
that  is  a  barter  trade,  in  which,  if  the  dealers  have  little  to  put 
away,  they  cannot  expect  much  in  exchange. 

In  these  travelling  excursions,  the  ladies  have  latterly  come  in 
for  a  great  share  of  lame  as  projectors.  Many  of  them  have  been 
devised  under  the  influence  of  curtain  lectures  and  dialogues. 
"  It  is,  you  know,  my  dear,"  says  madame  to  her  spouse,  "too 
unhealthy  and  disagreeable  to  spend  the  whole  summer  in  the 
city.  It  injures  the  complexions  of  myself  and  daughters,  and 
makes  us  all  too  bilious  and  pale  to  be  cooped  up  within  the  pre- 
cincts of  a  deserted  neighbourhood.  Besides,  there  is  Mr.  A. 
and  Mr.  B.  and  others,  all  of  less  means  than  we  possess,  and 
they  are  already  gone  off  to  recruit  their  strength  and  refresh 
their  spirits ;  now  climbing  rocks  upon  the  Catskill ;  next  sipping 
Congress  water,  and  tripping  cotillions  at  Saratoga ;  next  whirl- 
ing through  the  eddying  rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence."  The  good, 
the  indulgent  husband  is  still  reluctant ;  he  remembers  his  fall  of 
ftocks ;  insurance  losses ;  his  faithless  guarantees,  &c. ;  and  faintly 
pleads  inability  for  the  occasion :  but  for  him,  example,  and  the 
general  mover  of  his  circle,  overweighs  all  demurs,  and  the  ladies 
and  daughters  go  off  under  protection  of  a  party  of  friends, 
leaving  the  good  man  to  remain  at  home  to  see  that  personal  and 


Watering-places,  1 35 

family  interests  are  not  neglected.  As  the  dog  star  rages,  the 
epidemic  becomes  common.  Mechanics  desert  their  business; 
retailers  fling  aside  their  yard  sticks  ;  doctors  leave  their  patients 
to  get  well  without  them :  lawyers  take  no  cognizance  of  fees  or 
special  pleadings;  wives  leave  husbands;  school-masters  empty 
their  noisy  urchins  into  the  streets,  to  unlearn  as  much  as  they 
have  learnt :  all  for  the  sake  of  "  going  into  the  country."  Noi 
is  this  all :  pastors  desert  their  flocks,  and  the  flocks  run  away 
from  their  pastors,  leaving  the  faithful  messengers  who  do  remain 
to  preach  with  countenances  melancholy  as  Jeremiah,  to  empty 
seats  and  bare  walls.  They  might  indeed  exclaim,  "How  does 
the  city  sit  solitary  that  was  full  of  people ;  and  how  have  the 
houses  become  desolate  that  were  full  of  children  !" 

The  husbands  are  the  chief  sufferers  in  this  passion  for  family 
travelling.  Remaining  at  home,  to  guard  with  care  the  interests 
by  which  the  family  is  sustained,  he  feels  keenly  the  solitude  of 
his  empty  halls  and  chambers ;  he  stalks  gloomily  about,  catching 
one  meal  here  and  another  there.  You  can  almost  read  it  in  his 
countenance  that  he  is  a  bereaved  man ;  and  when  you  ask  him 
after  the  welfare  of  his  family,  he  answers  with  a  sigh,  "  they've 
gone  in  the  country."  It  was  not  always  so.  In  soberer  days  the 
city  was  deemed  quite  as  healthy  as  the  country ;  and  people 
were  aware  that  the  sun  beat  down  as  powerfully  upon  the  dust 
and  sand  of  a  country  village,  or  upon  the  loom  and  gravel  of  a 
highway,  as  in  town. 

These  thoughts  and  notices,  thus  cast  together,  on  watering- 
places  and  travelling  excursions,  may  serve  to  apprise  our  young 
and  pleasure-loving  friends  that  there  is  now  a  new  era,  a  love 
of  display  and  motion,  not  cherished  among  us  until  very  recently; 
at  the  same  time,  the  love  of  travel  and  observation,  well  under- 
stood, is  of  most  commendable  character. 

To  those  who  are  intellectually  qualified  to  profit  by  an  observ- 
ant eye,  peering  into  every  thing. 

"  Nature,  exhaustless,  still  has  power  to  warm, 
And  every  change  of  scene  a  novel  charm. 
The  dome-crown'd  city,  or  the  cottage  plain. 
The  rough  cragg'd  mountain,  or  tumultuous  main. 
M^  to  the  thoughtful^  purest  joys  impart. 
Delight  his  eye  and  stimulate  his  heart." 

It  may  be  here  noticed,  that  Salt  Springs  form  a  conspicuous 
item  in  New  York  state.  There  are  many  of  great  value  and  of 
inexhaustible  abundance.  The  principal  of  them  are  in  the 
counties  of  Onondaga,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  Ontario,  and  Genessee — 
fifty  gallons  of  the  salt  water,  generally  form  a  bushel  of  salt. 
What  a  treasure,  to  have  such  useful  essentials  of  life,  so  far  in- 
land !  once,  salt  inland,  had  to  go  upon  pack  horses  at  great  ex- 
pense. 


%H  The  Erie  Canal. 


THE  ERIE  CANAL. 

«  The  traveller  with  wonder  sees 
The  white  sail  gleaming  through  the  dusky  trees, 
And  views  the  altered  landscape  with  surprise, 
And  doubts  the  magic  scenes  which  round  him  rise." 

This  grand  Canal,  the  proud  monument  of  the  enterprise  and 
public  spirit  of  New  York,  although  not  properly  an  affair  of 
sufficient  age  to  demand  a  special  chapter  in  the  present  work, 
yet  as  it  has  stretched  its  long  length  through  a  long  line  of  forest 
waste,  which  till  then  lay  for  many  a  mile  in  its  pristine  gloom 
and  wilderness,  it  has  therefore  become  a  matter  of  proper  inter- 
est to  describe  and  compare  the  past  with  the  present. 

A  tourist  making  his  pleasant  journey  along  the  line  of  the 
present  canal,  seeing  thriving  villages,  productive  farms,  and  a 
dense  population  along  its  margin,  could  scarcely  conceive  that 
this  advancement  in  wealth  and  civilization  had  been  the  work 
of  only  fifteen  years. 

In  the  year  1819,  when  this  great  work  was  first  set-to  with 
effective  operation,  the  then  little  settlements  were  "  few  and  far 
between ;"  the  advance  settlers  but  rude  and  poor ;  and  the 
country  in  general  unsubdued  and  wild.  The  wolf  still  prowled  ; 
the  catamount  still  sprang  on  its  prey  ;  the  bear  still  growled  in 
his  den.  When  we  contemplate  the  present  in  comparison  with 
the  past,  so  recent  too  is  all  this  change,  the  mind  is  lost  in  wonder 
and  admiration  at  the  improving  power  and  hand  of  man.  The 
canal  itself  has  not  only  grown  into  a  source  of  immense  profit  to 
the  state,  but  it  has  diffused  wealth  and  comfort  throughout  all 
the  former  waste  regions  of  the  West.  When  we  consider  too, 
how  many  obstacles,  both  natural  and  moral,  stood  in  prevention 
of  its  incipient  beginning,  we  must  feel  peculiar  gratitude  to  the 
ceaseless  and  untiring  efforts  of  those  first  projectors  and  promo- 
ters, who  persevered  in  its  progress  and  execution.  At  first, 
numerous  writers  and  speakers  resisted  the  endeavour ;  they  pre- 
dicted it  could  not  be  achieved,  they  deemed  it  impossible  to  sur- 
mount such  impediments  as  lay  in  its  way.  Finally,  however, 
we  see  that  they  who  had  the  hardihood  to  offer  a  new  theory, 
have  had  the  success  to  make  all  men  think  with  them  and  to 
join  in  their  commendation.  The  name  of  De  Witt  Clinton  will 
long  stand  pre-eminenf,  as  a  bold  and  munificent  patron  of  this 
great  and  productive  enterprise. 

General  Washington,  foresaw  the  practicability  of  canalling  to 
the  western  waters — for  after  having  made  a  tour  in  New  York, 
soon  after  the  close  of  the  war,  he  wrote  to  the  Marquis  of  Ches- 


The  Erie  Canal  137 

tallux,  in  1 784,  in  which  he  said,  "  I  have  lately  made  a  tour 
through  the  lakes  George  and  Champlain,  as  far  as  Crown  point, 
thence  returning  to  Schenectady — thence  up  the  Mohawk  to  Fort 
Schuyler,  crossed  over  to  Wood  creek,  which  empties  into  Oneida 
lake,  and  affords  communication  with  the  Ontario.  I  then  tra- 
versed the  country  to  the  head  of  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Sus- 
quehannah,  and  viewed  the  lake  Otsego,  and  the  portage  between 
that  lake  and  the  Mohawk  river,  at  Canajoharie.  I  was  struck 
with  the  vast  inland  navigation  we  possess.  Would  to  God,  we 
may  have  wisdom  enough  to  improve  those  benefits,  with  which 
Providence  has  so  kindly  favoured  us." 

Besides  this,  Mr.  Thomson,  of  Chester  County,  Pennsylvania, 
built  a  boat  called  the  White-fish,  at  Oswego,  and  proceeding  by 
the  waters  of  Wood  creek,  came  down  the  Mohawk  and  the 
Hudson  rivers,  out  by  Sandy  Hook,  along  the  sea-coast  of  New 
Jersey,  and  up  the  Delaware  to  Philadelphia,  where  he  laid  up 
his  boat  in  the  State  House  yard,  as  a  proof  in  itself,  of  the  said 
inland  navigation ! 

Christopher  Colles,  a  native  of  Ireland,  in  moderate  circum" 
stances,  who  settled  in  New  York  before  the  Revolution,  was 
the  first  man  who  started  suggestions  concerning  connecting 
canals  and  inland  improvements  in  Western  New  York.  De 
Witt  Clinton,  himself,  declares  this  fact,  saying  "  he  was  an  inge- 
nious mechanician,  and  able  mathematician.  His  memorials  to 
the  Legislature  were  presented  in  1784-5,  and  met  with  a  fa- 
vourable report,  although  some  thought  his  schemes  visionary." 
Before  the  Revolution,  he  had  proposed  a  plan  for  supplying 
New  York  city  with  good  water  ;  and  in  1772,  he  had  given 
public  lectures  in  Philadelphia,  upon  the  advantages  of  Lock 
navigation.  Like  "  poor  Fitch,"  he  was  ahead  of  the  times ! 
Colles  published  a  pamphlet  in  1785,  entitled  "  Proposals  for  the 
speedy  settlement  of  Me  Western  frontier  of  New  For  A;,"  where- 
in he  said,  "  by  this,  the  internal  trade  will  be  increased, — the 
country  will  be  settled,  and  the  frontiers  secured.  By  this, 
(meaning  the  connecting  improvement,  of  the  Mohawk  river, 
&c.,)  land  carriage  will  be  avoided,  and  masts,  yards,  and  ship 
timber,  may  be  brought  to  New  York.  By  this,  in  time  of  war, 
provisions  and  military  stores  may  be  conveyed."  Subsequent 
events,  have  proved  how  far  he  was  right.  The  subject  slept 
till  1791,  when  it  was  again  revived  by  other  men,  of  more  per- 
sonal influence,  and  at  a  time  more  favourable  to  success.  So 
that  a  company  was  chartered  for  the  Mohawk  and  its  Canal, 
in  1792,  which  in  four  years  succeeded  to  open  the  passage  from 
Schenectady  to  the  Oneida,  and  intended  fo  have  continued  it  on 
to  lake  Ontario.  Mr.  Elkanah  Watson,  was  a  very  efficient 
agent  in  these  measures,  he  made  surveys  of  the  routes,  in  1791 ; 
and  put  out  publications',  ^'  which  no  doubt,  had  an  important 
influence  on  public  opinion,  in  favour  of  canals.^^  It  was  not, 
18  m3 


13*  The  Erie  Canal 

however,  until  1810,  that  the  whole  subject  was  fully  grasped  : 
Then  De  Witt  Clinton,  as  a  senator,  first  advocated  "  the  Canal 
policy, ^^  with  which  his  name,  has  since  heen  so  conspicuously 
coupled,  pledging  his  name  and  fame  upon  its  importance  and 
practicability.  General  Schuyler  and  Governeur  Morris,  also 
came  in  for  their  full  meed  of  praise  therein.  In  1808,  Mr.  Joshua 
Farman,  a  member  of  the  Legislature,  from  Onondago,  "  being 
moved,  (as  he  since  has  said,)  by  the  perusal  of  Jefferson's  mes- 
sage on  internal  improvements,  and  by  the  article  on  Canals  in 
Rees'  Cyclopedise,'^  presented  to  the  Legislature  of  New  York, 
"  a  Resolution  for  a  survey  for  the  best  route,  by  means  of  a 
Canal,  from  the  Hudson  river  to  lake  Erie."  It  excited  surprise, 
and  even  ridicule  with  some  ;  but  nevertheless,  passed  by  an  ap- 
propriation for  a  survey.  This  beginning  elicited  the  valuable 
commu?iicatio7is  of  Ellicott,  Hawley  and  Geddes.  By  these 
the  public  mind  was  instructed,  and  the  subject  was  kept  under 
consideration.  The  war  intervening,  measures  were  suspended : 
but  "the  New  York  Memorial,"  by  De  Witt  Clinton,  in  1815, 
gave  a  new  impulse  /  and  the  Jict  for  the  Grand  Canal,  was 
passed  in  April,  1817,  and  the  whole  was  thereby  finished  ^w^ 
celebrated  in  November,  1824  !  What  a  triumph  of  human  skill 
in  thus  subduing  natural  impediments  !  To  the  curious  in  all  this 
matter,  the  whole  history  of  the  facts  in  the  case,  may  be  foimd  in 
O'Reilly's  "  Settlement  in  the  West,  and  sketches  of  Rochester." 

To  the  wonders  of  this  western  world,  and  as  a  circumstance 
surprisingly  illustrating  the  march  of  improvement,  may  be  men- 
tioned the  fact  of  the  1st  of  January,  1842,  that  wheat  in  the 
sheaf,  and  barrel-wood  in  the  tree,  on  Tuesday  morning,  were 
conveyed  in  barrels  as  Genessee  flour,— by  the  rail  road,  from 
Canandaigua  to  Boston,  four  hundred  miles  ;  and  the  flour  was 
eaten  there  in  the  form  of  bread  at  a  public  banqueting,  on  Wed- 
nesday evening !  At  Albany  too,  candles  made  at  Bedford,  in 
the  morning,  were  conveyed  with  the  company  of  visiters,  from 
New  Bedford  and  Boston,  and  used  the  evening  of  the  same  day, 
in  a  rejoicing  feast,  celebrated  in  the  Albany  city !  What  a  change 
of  circumstances  since  the  old  Dutch  burghers  used  to  give  enter- 
tainments, and  to  consider  themselves,  at  the  utmost  verge  of 
inland  civilization !  Cod  fish,  brought  from  Boston  to  Albany, 
have  been  sold  in  the  latter  place,  at  four  cents  per  pound : — 
although,  before,  they  could  only  be  regarded  as  luxuries,  not  to 
be  attained  so  far  from  the  sea  ! 

This  great  canal  traverses  a  country  three  hundred  and  sixty 
miles  in  length,  extending  from  Albany  to  Buflalo,  a  port  on 
Lake  Erie,  and  sometimes  called,  in  the  prospective  hope  of  its 
increase  and  prosperity,  the  "  New  York  of  the  Lakes." 

In  marking  the  prominent  facts  of  this  canal,  beginning  at 
Albany  and  going  westward,  we  shall  first  notice  the  great  diffi- 
culties overcome  at  the  Cohoes  Fall,  there  lifting  the  boats,  in  the 


The  Erie  Canal.  139 

course  of  two  miles,  one  hundred  feet  by  the  aid  of  twelve  locks. 
This  may  look  like  an  easy  affair  now,  but  consider  the  men,  the 
labour,  and  the  money  it  once  cost  to  produce  the  result.  At  the 
Little  Falls  it  again  ascends  forty  feet,  by  five  locks  of  eight  feet. 
The  country  here  is  wildly  romantic  and  rugged ;  and  patient 
and  persevering  was  the  toil  near  here  to  excavate,  from  the  over- 
hanging and  tremendous  cliffs  of  granite,  a  passage  for  boats  along 
its  impending  brow.  Thence,  ascending  fifty-seven  feet,  by  seven 
locks,  it  arrives  at  the  dividing  ridge  near  Rome ;  a  ridge  which 
from  its  height,  forms  a  barrier  which  divides  the  waters  that  flow 
into  lake  Ontario,  from  those  which  flow  into  the  Hudson.  This 
"  summit  height,"  so  called  at  Rome,  is  just  four  hundred  and 
seventeen  feet  rise  from  the  Hudson,  overcome  chiefly  by  fifty-two 
locks,  in  the  course  of  one  hundred  miles.  In  traversing  the 
country  along  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  the  canal  has  been 
made  for  many  miles  along  the  bed  of  that  river,  to  avoid  the 
great  projections  and  points  of  hills  jutting  out  into  the  river  oc- 
casionally, especially  at  the  Cohoes  and  Little  Falls.  At  one 
place,  four  miles  eastward  of  Schenectady,  the  canal  crosses  the 
river  by  an  aqueduct,  eight  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  and 
twenty-one  feet  high.  What  an  object  to  contemplate  for  its 
grandeur,  for  its  triumph  as  a  measure  of  art.  At  Rochester 
another  great  aqueduct  crosses  the  Genessee,  of  eight  hundred 
feet  in  length,  resting  on  eleven  arches,  and  being  just  five  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  Hudson,  and  sixty-four  feet  below  the  waters 
of  lake  Erie. 

The  first  portion  of  the  canal  completed  and  put  into  productive 
use,  was  the  line  of  one  hundred  and  seventy-four  miles  from 
Utica  to  Rochester,  first  set  in  operation  in  the  year  1822. 
Although  so  recent,  yet  it  was  made  through  regions  so  purely 
in  a  state  of  nature,  that  long  sections  of  the  route  seemed  almost 
beyond  human  might  to  subdue.  The  Cayuga  marshes  near 
Seneca  river  were  still  in  their  primeval  waste.  There  two  thou- 
sand men  at  a  time  struggled  to  force  a  passage,  and  only  suc- 
ceeded at  the  peril  of  losing  several  lives,  and  having  one  half 
their  number  made  sick  by  toil  and  unhealthy  exposure.  Now 
contemplate  the  same  regions,  made  fruitful,  healthy,  and  pros- 
perous. There,  too,  we  notice  the  "Long  Level"  so  called,  stretch- 
ing from  Utica  to  Syracuse,  seventy  miles,  without  a  lock.  A  rare 
circumstance,  without  a  parallel  in  the  world,  except  so  far  as 
nearly  equalled  by  itself  at  the  other  extremity  of  the  canal  from 
Rochester  to  Lockport,  where  the  "  Genessee  Level"  runs  sixty- 
five  miles  unobstructed  by  any  locks.  Arrived  at  Seneca  river, 
the  canal  is  made  to  pass  through  the  river,  having  a  towing 
path  of  artificial  construction  along  its  side  of  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  in  length.  By  and  bye,  proceeding  westward  through  a 
country  abounding  in  lakes,  and  redeeming  and  profiting  the 
regions  around,  we  arrive  at  the  striking  monument  of  human 


140  The  Erie  Canal. 

toil  and  industry — the  "high  embankment'^  of  Irondequat,  it 
being  a  stupendous  mound  of  earth  traversing  the  creek  of  that 
name  over  a  culvert  of  twenty-four  feet  cord  and  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  length.  At  an  elevation  of  seventy  feet  of  embank- 
ment, extending  a  mile  in  length,  the  beholder,  filled  with  sub- 
lime emotions,  sees  himself  lifted  into  mid-air,  and  peacefully  and 
safely  gliding  along  the  bosom  of  the  still  canal,  looking  down 
many  feet  to  the  tops  of  the  forests  below  him,  or  extending  his 
eye  far  and  wide  into  the  far-reaching  prospect.  As  we  approach 
Rochester  on  the  Genessee  river,  one  of  the  great  and  suddenly 
constructed  towns  of  the  west,  we  there  rise  thirty-seven  feet  by 
f^YQ  locks,  and  are  then  entered  upon  the  "  Genessee  Level," 
extending  to  Lockport.  At  this  place  the  canal  encounters  the 
Mountain  Ridge,  the  most  difficult  object  in  all  the  route ;  it  being 
seven  and  a  half  miles  across,  and  going  for  three  miles  through 
solid  rock  to  the  depth  of  twenty  to  thirty  feet.  At  Lockport,  so 
called  from  its  numerous  locks,  great  basin,  &c.,  the  canal  works 
through  a  mural  precipice  of  sixty  feet,  having  five  sets  of  locks, 
set  side  by  side  double,  of  twelve  feet  lift.  At  the  "  summit  level" 
of  Lockport,  the  traveller  will  desire  to  halt  and  pause  ;  he  will 
regard  this  as  the  conquering  point  of  the  grand  enterprise.  He 
will  consider  that  but  a  few  years  since  this  region  was  the  quiet 
and  rugged  retreat  of  the  soaring  eagle.  It  seemed  precluded 
from  the  approach  or  the  use  of  man ;  but  now  he  beholds  a 
thronged  town  on  the  site,  having  one  hundred  and  eighty  of  its 
houses  constructed  in  the  first  year  of  the  canal !  From  the  heights 
of  this  village  he  looks  down  to  the  foot  of  the  canal,  and  there 
sees,  in  a  great  basin,  numerous  boats,  the  vehicles  of  commerce 
and  exchange ;  or,  turning  his  eyes  abroad,  he  sees  to  distant 
regions,  hears  the  roar  of  the  Niagara  cataract,  and  is  aware 
that  when  improvement  shall  further  advance,  and  by  it  level  the 
intervening  woods,  he  shall  be  enabled  to  behold  the  waves  of 
the  Ontario  and  the  Erie,  and  to  see  upon  their  bosom  the  busy 
barks  of  commerce,  and  the  swift  speeding  steamboats.  In  short, 
from  this  eagle-altitude  he  will  behold  the  most  picturesque  and 
sublime  prospect  the  world  can  produce.  The  beholder  is  here 
placed  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  level  of  Ontario, 
and  within  fifteen  miles  of  its  shore ;  and  the  intermediate  coun- 
try is  fertile  to  a  proverb. 

Departing  from  this  enchanting  region  where  the  imagination 
is  on  stretch,  and  where  all  around  seems  like  the  effect  of  magic, 
the  traveller  is  quickly  conveyed  to  Buffalo  harbour,  the  grand 
termination  of  this  stupendous  achievement.  An  enterprise 
which,  although  costing  millions  in  its  execution,  is  destined 
quickly  to  refund  its  cost,  and  to  be  a  lasting  benefactor  to  the 
state.  Thus  "  flood  to  flood  is  social  join'd ;"  and  our  country, 
from  "a  waste  howling  wilderness,"  is  made  *Uo  blossom  and 
flourish  as  the  rose." 


SECOND   BOOK. 


NEW  YORK  CITY  IN  PARTICULAR. 


NEW  YORK  CITY  IN  PARTICULAR. 


NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Let  us  satisfy  our  eyes 


With  the  memorials  and  the  things  of  fame, 
That  do  renown  the  City  !  " 

It  is  scarcely  possible  that  an  observing  and  considerate 
spectator,  who  had  seen  New  York  in  its  lowliness,  some  forty 
years  ago,  should  be  insensible  to  its  rapidly  rising  glories  now  : 
he  must  feel  grateful  emotions  of  surprise  and  exultation  at  the 
many  imposing  proofs  of  her  distinguished  prosperity. 

Having  myself  been  familiar  with  the  localities  of  New  York, 
in  my  boyhood,  the  numerous  changes  in  given  places,  every 
where  surprised  me,  on  my  visits  there  in  later  years.  Wishing 
to  preserve  some  recollections  of  the  things  I  saw  or  heard,  or  of 
the  imaginings  which  occupied  my  mind,  I  determined  to  give 
them  "  shape  and  form,"  in  the  following  memorial  of  men  and 
things. 

While  I  thus  contemplated  New  York  as  "  from  her  meridian 
arch  of  power,"  I  went  back  instinctively  to  its  earliest  origin  as 
the  suburbs  of  a  military  station  ;  there  I  saw  in  vision  the  sparse 
population  of  Hollanders,  the  hardy  Pioneers,  by  whose  primitive 
efforts  their  present  descendants  enjoy  so  much  affluence  and 
repose  !  I  saw,  in  idea,  the  first  adventurous  yacht,  the  "  Half- 
Moon,"  first  enter  this  present  crowded  and  busy  harbour — then 

"  One  still 

And  solemn  desert  in  primeval  garb, 
Hung  round  his  lonely  bark  ! " 

In  this  contemplation,  retrospection  is  touching  !  there  is  poetry 
of  feeling  in  the  subject !  Duller  minds  may  be  insensible  to  the 
charm  of  "olden  time"  affections,  without  an  adapted  5/eww/w5  ; 
and  yet,  even  these,  can  be  stirred,  and  by  a  graphic  picture  of 
the  past,  "  sometimes  made  to  wonder  that  they  never  saw  before 
what  he  shows  them,  or  that  they  never  yet  had/e//  what  he  im- 
presses !" 

With  views  and  emotions  like  these,  which,  however  disre* 

143 


144         Introductory  and  general  views  of  the  City, 

garded  by  some,  we  shall  ever  delight  to  cherish,  both  con  amore, 
and  as  an  expedient  lengthening  the  measure  of  our  existence, 

"  Down  history's  lengthening,  widening  way," 

we  have  been  prepared  to  explore  some  of  the  arcana  of  New 
York,  with  some  such  affections  and  feelings  as  Dr.  Johnson  im- 
puted to  himself,  in  investigating  the  construction  of  Milton's 
Paradise  Lost,  saying,  "  To  trace  back  the  structure  through  all 
its  varieties  to  the  simplicity  of  its  first  plan  ;  to  find  what 
was  first  projected ;  whence  the  scheme  was  taken  ;  how  it  was 
improved ;  by  lohat  assistance  it  was  executed ;  and  from  what 
stores  the  materials  were  collected.  However  ohsc.ure  this  may 
be  in  e'/^eZ/J  nothing  can  be  more  worthy  of  rational  curiosity  /" 
The  object  then  of  these  researches  shall  be  to  present  a  picture 
of  the  city,  and  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  its  inhabitants,  as 
they  stood  in  days  tang  syne  ;  when  the  city  was  yet  small,  and 
the  habits  of  the  people,  simple,  plain  arid  frugal.  In  fulfilUng 
our  design,  we  shall  endeavour  so  to  distribute  the  topics  under 
various  heads  as  will  best  instruct  the  reader  in  the  facts  to  which 
we  solicit  attention.  In  some  cases,  we  shall  give  the  names  of 
sundry  aged  persons,  from  whom  we  derived  our  information ; 
intending  thereby  to  vouch  to  the  reader,  that  the  facts  or  tradi- 
tions related,  have  been  sufficiently  supported  by  such  respectable 
ancients,  as  once  knew  them  to  be  true. 


INTRODUCTORY  AND   GENERAL  VIEWS   OF 
THE  CITY. 

As  scann'd  with  bird-eye  view. 

The  city  "  stretching  street  on  street,"  as  in  her  present 
grandeur  and  magnitude,  enrolled  in  1828,  a  total  population  of 
180,000  souls :  a  collection  of  about  30,000  houses  ;  a  tonnage  of 
300,400  tons — this  is  exclusive  of  10,500  tons  of  steamboats ; 
and  an  assessed  value  of  property  (including  thirty-seven  millions 
of  personal  estate)  of  114  millions  of  dollars;*  her  hghted  and 
paved  streets,  lined  with  houses,  extend  to  Thirteenth  street,  on 
the  North  river  side,  to  the  dry  dock  on  the  East  river  side,  and 
to  Thirteenth  street  on  the  Broadway  and  Bowery  streets.  All 
its  modem  streets  are  straight  and  wide,  graduated  to  easy  and 
gradual  ascents  or  descents ;  and  where  formerly  very  narrow 
lanes  existed,  or  crowded  edifices  occurred,  they  have  either  cut 

•  In  1841  the  assessment  was  251  millions  of  dollars,  and  its  population 
313,710. 


Introductory  and  general  views  of  the  City.         145 

off  the  encroaching  fronts  of  houses,  as  in  William  street  and 
Maiden  lane,  or  cut  through  solid  masses  of  houses,  as  in  opening 
Beekman  and  Fulton  streets.  They  have  widened  the  bounds 
of  the  city,  both  on  the  North  and  East  rivers,  by  building  up 
whole  streets  of  houses,  at  and  beyond  Greenwich  street  on  the 
western  side  ;  and  at  and  from  Pearl  street  on  the  eastern  river. 
The  value  and  magnitude  of  these  improvements,  all  redeemed 
from  the  former  rivers  once  there,  are  really  astonishing  to  the 
beholder. 

There  is  every  indication  to  evince  the  fact,  that  New  York 
was  in  prhnitive  days  the  "  city  of  hills  ; "  such  verdant  hills,  of 
successive  undulation,  as  the  general  state  of  the  whole  country- 
part  of  the  island  now  presents.  Thus,  at  the  extreme  south 
end  of  the  Broadway,  where  the  ancient  fort  formerly  stood,  was 
an  elevated  mound,  quite  as  elevated  as  the  general  level  of  that 
street  is  now  before  Trinity  Church,  and  thence  regularly  declin- 
ing from  along  that  street  to  the  beach  on  the  North  River.  The 
hills  were  sometimes  precipitous,  as  from  Beekman's  and  Peck's 
Hills,  in  the  neighborhoods  of  Pearl  street  and  Beekman  and 
Ferry  streets,  and  from  the  middle  Dutch  Church  in  Nassau  street 
down  to  Maiden  lane  ;  and  sometimes  gradually  sloping,  as  on 
either  hills  along  the  hne  of  the  water,  coursing  along  the  region 
of  Maiden  lane.  Between  many  of  the  hills  flowed  in  several 
invasions  of  water :  such  as  "  the  canal^^  so  called  to  gratify 
Dutch  recollections,  which  was  an  inroad  of  river  water  up 
Broad  street ;  and  up  Maiden  lane,  flowed  another  inroad,  through 
Smith's  marsh  or  valley  ;  a  little  beyond  Peck's  Slip,  existed  a 
low  water-course,  which  in  high  tide  water  ran  quite  up  in  union 
with  the  Collect  (Kolck)  and  thence  joining  with  Lispenard's 
swamp  on  North  River  side,  produced  a  union  of  waters  quite 
across  the  former  city :  thus  converting  it  occasionally  into  an 
island,  and  showing  a  reason  for  the  present  lowness  of  the  line 
of  Pearl  street  as  it  traverses  Chatham  street.  There  they  once 
had  to  use  boats  occasionally,  to  cross  the  foot  passengers  passing 
over  from  either  side  of  the  high  rising  ground  ranging  on  both 
sides  of  Pearl  street,  as  that  street  inclines  across  the  city  till  it 
runs  out  upon  Broadway,  vis  a  vis  the  hospital. 

These  details  of  mere  streets  are  necessarily  dull,  and  indeed 
not  susceptible  of  any  further  interest  than  as  they  may  serve  as 
metes  and  bounds  within  which  to  lay  the  foundation  of  more 
agreeable  and  imaginative  topics,  to  grow  upon  the  reader  as  the 
subject  advances. 

19  N 


146  Primitive  New  York. 


PEIMITIVE  NEW  YORK. 

We  backward  look  to  scenes  no  longer  there. 

We  are  first  indebted  for  a  view  of  Nieuw  Amsterdam  in  1659, 
to  Ogilby's  America  of  1671,  as  given  in  that  work.  In  describ- 
ing the  place  and  the  fort,  he  says,  ^'  there  are  about  four  hundred 
houses,  built  after  the  manner  in  Holland — the  town  compact  and 
oval.  Upon  one  side  of  the  town  is  James  Fort,  capable  to  lodge 
three  hundred  soldiers  and  officers — it  hath  six  bastions  and  forty 
pieces  of  cannon — the  walls  of  stone,  lined  with  a  rampart  of 
earth,  well  accommodated  with  a  spring  of  fresh  water.'^ 

"The  inhabitants  consist  mostly  of  English  and  Dutch — have 
a  considerable  trade  with  Indians,  for  beaver,  otter,  raccoon,  and 
other  furs,  and  also  for  bear,  deer,  and  elk  skins,  and  are  cheaply 
supplied  by  Indians  with  venison  and  fowl  in  winter,  and  with 
fish  in  the  summer." 

In  the  same  year,  1659,  the  Rev.  John  Miller,  who  was  three 
years  chaplain  at  New  York,  made  a  draught  of  the  city,  and 
wrote  a  small  book  descriptive  of  the  .place.  Wall  street  being 
then  the  defence  of  the  city,  is  marked  with  a  hne  of  stockades, 
and  with  stone  redoubts,  or  "  stone  points"  on  its  northern  side, 
at  corner  of  Broad  street,  and  at  corner  of  King  street,  also  as 
having  gates  at  Broad  street,  and  at  Queen  street — i.  e.  Pearl 
street.  At  the  east  river  side  of  Wall  street,  was  the  Vly  (Fly) 
block  house,  and  half-moon  battery — and  at  the  western  end  of 
same  street,  on  the  North  river  side,  stood  the  northwest  block 
house ;  a  little  southward  from  it,  began  "  the  works  on  the  west 
side,  running  all  along  the  shore  down  to  the  Fort,  at  the  capsey 
or  battery,  they  being  stockades  with  "  postern  gate"  and  two 
projecting  water  batteries.  At  Whitehall  slip,  is  marked  "  a  bat- 
tery of  fifteen  guns,"  and  before  the  Stadt  house  on  East  river 
side,  is  marked  another  battery  of  equal  guns.  The  Trinity 
church  grounds  are  marked  as  severally,  equal  to  two  squares — 
from  Broad  street  back  to  Lombard  street,  as  ^^  the  burying 
ground," — "the  ground  for  an  Episcopal  church" — and  "the 
plot  intended  for  the  Episcopal  minister's  house."  Southward 
of  those  grounds,  on  west  side  of  Broad  street,  is  marked  "the 
Lutheran  church,  and  Minister's  house."  "  The  public  wells^^ 
in  the  several  streets,  not  being  many,  are  all  marked — say  two 
in  Wall  street,  three  in  Broadway,  four  in  Broad  street,  and  two 
on  East  river  side. 

This  Rev.  Mr.  Miller,  who  addressed  his  book  to  the  Bishop 
of  London,  says  the  Province  then  contains  about  three  thousand 
families,  one  half  Dutch,  the  rest  English  and  French.     "  The 


Primitive  New  York.  147 

Dutch  are  richest  and  sparing.  The  EngUsh  neither  very  rich, 
nor  too  great  husbands.  The  French  are  poorest,  and  therefore 
forced  to  be  penurious  or  close."  He  speaks  of  trade  and  deaUng, 
as  being  an  affair  of  management — says  they  need  Ministers,  to 
repress  irreUgion  and  wickedness,  to  bring  in  unity  of  doctrine, 
and  to  keep  down  civil  dissensions,  &;c. — [See  London  ed.  1843.] 
A  perspective  map  of  New  York,  in  1673,  as  preserved  in  Du 
Siraitiere's  Historical  collection,  in  the  Philadelphia  Library,  and 
latterly  illustrated  by  J.  W.  Moulton,  Esq.,  from  his  researches 
among  the  Dutch  records,  gives  us  a  pretty  accurate  conception 
of  the  outline  features  of  the  city  at  the  time  when  it  became,  by 
the  peace  of  1674,  permanently  under  British  dominion,  and 
thence  gradually  to  wear  off  its  former  exclusive  Knickerbocker 
character. 

At  that  time  almost  all  the  houses  presented  their  gable  ends 
to  the  street ;  and  all  the  most  important  public  buildings,  such 
as  "  Stuyvesant  Huys,"  on  the  water  edge,  at  present  Moore  and 
Front  streets ;  and  the  "  Stadt-huys,"  or  City  Hall  on  Pearl  street, 
at  the  head  of  Coentie's  Slip,  were  then  set  on  the  fore-ground  to 
be  the  more  readily  seen,  from  the  river.  The  chief  part  of  the 
town  of  that  dayi  lay  along  the  East  river  (called  Salt  river  in 
early  days),  and  descending  from  the  high  ridge  of  ground  along 
the  line  of  the  Broadway.  A  great  artificial  dock  for  vessels,  lay 
between  "  Stuyvesant  Huys,"  above  referred  to,  and  the  bridge 
over  the  canal  at  its  debouche  on  the  present  Broad  street.  Three 
"  Half  Moon  Forts,"  called  "  Rondeels^^  lay  at  equi-distances  for 
the  defence  of  the  place ;  the  first  at  Coentie's  Slip,  and  the  third 
at  the  "  Water  Gate,"  or  outer  bounds  of  the  then  city,  being  the 
foot  of  tlie  present  Wall  street,  so  called  from  its  being  then  shut 
in  there  by  a  line  of  palisades  along  the  said  street,  quite  over  to 
the  junction  of  Grace  and  Lumber  streets,  where  the  North  river 
limits  then  terminated  in  a  redoubt. 

One  of  the  original  Philadelphians,  Wm.  Bradford,  the  first 
printer  of  Philadelphia,  has  left  us  a  lively  picture  of  the  city  of 
New  York  as  it  stood  about  the  year  1729,  being  his  publication 
from  an  original  survey  by  James  Lyne.  The  one  which  I  have 
seen  (a  great  rarity  considered)  at  the  city  commissioner's  should 
be,  I  should  think,  but  a  reduced  copy,  inasmuch  as  the  MSS. 
"Annals  of  Philadelphia,"  show  that  in  the  year  1721,  the  son  of 
the  above  Wm.  Bradford,  (named  Andrew)  advertises  in  his 
"  Mercury"  the  sale  of  a  "  curious  prospect  of  New  York,  on  four 
sheets  of  paper,  royal  size."     What  an  article  for  an  antiquary  ! 

By  the  map  aforesaid,  it  is  shown  in  1729,  that  there  was  no 
street  beyond  the  Broadway,  westward,  but  that  the  lots  on  the 
western  side  of  that  street  descended  severally  to  the  beach ;  that 
from  Courtlandt  street,  northward,  all  the  ground  west  of  Broad- 
way was  occupied  by  trees  and  tillage,  and  called  the  "  King's 
Farm."    The  eastern  side  of  the  city  was  all  bounded  by  Water 


148  Primitive  New  York. 

street,  having  houses  only  on  the  land  side,  and  its  northern  Hmits 
terminating  with  Beekman  street.  At  the  foot  or  debouche  of 
Broad  street  were  two  great  docks,  called  West  and  East  Dock, 
as  they  lay  on  either  side  of  said  Broad  street ;  they  occupied  the 
ground  now  built  upon  from  Water  street,  nearly  out  to  South 
street,  and  from  the  east  side  of  Moore  street,  nearly  up  to  Coen- 
tie's  Slip.  Between  present  Moore  street  and  Whitehall  street, 
lay  the  "  Ship  Yard,"  and  all  along  where  now  tower  stately 
trees  in  the  Battery  promenade,  lay  numerous  rocks  forming 
"  the  Ledge,"  having  the  river  close  up  to  the  hne  of  the  present 
State  street,  fronting  the  Battery.  How  wonderful  then  is  the 
modern  extension  of  this  city,  by  carrying  out  whole  streets,  and 
numerous  buildings  to  places  before  submersed  in  Water  ! — thus 
practising  with  signal  benefit,  the  renowned  predilections  and  in- 
genuity of  their  transatlantic  ancestors. 

The  strongest  and  best  remembered  emotion  of  my  youth,  was 
that  of  first  seeing  New  York  harbour  when  a  lad,  entering  it  by 
the  way  of  the  Narrows.  It  seemed  a  great  amphitheatre  of  water 
girdled  all  around  the  utmost  verge  of  the  watery  plain,  with 
rising  grounds,  forming  an  even  and  fading  line  in  the  distant 
clouds. 

New  York  herself,  looked  lowest  of  all  the  objects  in  the 
distance.  She  seemed  sitting  as  a  floating  mass  of  brickwork, 
environed  with  reed-like  masts,  herself  concealed  behind  them, 
as  something  hid  in  the  rushes. 

As  we  approached  her  still  nearer,  we  saw  her  rising  as  from  the 
sea,  looming  larger  and  larger  upon  the  vision,  and  sending  forth 
the  gleamings  of  her  spires  and  towers  in  the  sunbeams,  until  we 
think,  as  noiv,  of  all  her  magnitude  and  splendour,  as  the  "Metro- 
politan City."  Truly,  "  the  harvest  of  the  river  is  her  revenue, 
and  she  is  the  mart  of  nations,  whose  merchants  and  traffickers 
are  as  princes :   These  have  replenished  her  isle  !" 

Nothing  can  be  conceived  more  lovely  and  exciting  than  the 
contemplation  of  such  a  harbour,  when  entered  from  the  sea,  in 
such  display  as  I  witnessed  her  in  the  well  remembered,  radiant 
and  early  summer  morn.  The  sunbeams  hghted  up  and  silvered 
every  object  in  the  landscape,  with  splendid  effulgence — the 
liquid  waves  seemed  tipped  and  sparkling  with  silver  and  golden 
light,  and  at  a  distance,  the  green  isles,  which  rested  before  the 
city  on  the  bosom  of  the  tranquil  waters,  seemed  like  guardian 
sentinels  to  the  beautiful  city.  Indeed  castellated  and  fortified  as 
they  have  since  become,  they  at  once  evince  the  treasures  of 
wealth,  and  the  thousands  of  animated  beings  which  they  thus 
protect  and  can  defend. 

Advancing  under  gentle  sail,  we  see  on  the  right,  the  blue 
heights  of  Gowanus,  topt  with  dun-coloured  morning  mist,  the 
Dutch  built  country  houses  seem  sleeping  in  quiet  repose— along 
its  base  we  see  the  light  market  boats  and  coasting  vessels,  steal- 


Memorials  of  the  Dutch  Dynasty,  149 

ing  like  apparitions  along  the  silent  shore.  Before  us,  stands  on 
proudly  the  lordly  Indiaman,  her  piles  of  canvass  towering  above 
the  white  fortresses  which  garnish  the  port,  bursting  forth  her 
volumes  of  fire  and  smoke  from  her  iron  battery,  waking  up  the 
still  slumbering  citizens,  and  making  the  shores  and  the  welkin 
resound  with  the  reverberating  roar. 

Far  on  the  left,  where  opens  the  noble  Hudson,  we  see  the 
grey  heights  of  Weehawken,  which  frown  over  the  many  white 
sheeted  river  vessels,  which  glide  lazily  beneath  its  magic  shade. 
Whilst  in  almost  every  direction  about  us,  we  see  the  more  ani- 
mated objects,  such  as  the  jocund  fishermen  just  putting  off  on 
their  day's  adventure,  and  the  gay  pleasure  barge  set  onward  by 
its  chattering  oarsmen.  In  a  word,  in  such  a  panoramic  picture, 
we  have  every  thing  to  charm  the  eye  and  feast  the  imagination 


—  farewell ! 

Thou  still  wilt  glow  as  fair  as  now — the  sky 
Still  arch  as  proudly  o'er  thee — evening  steal 
Along  thy  bosom  with  as  soft  a  dye : 
All  be  as  now — ^but  I  shall  cease  to  feel ! 


MEMORIALS  OF  THE  DUTCH  DYNASTY. 

"Dwell  o'er  the  remembrance  of  former  years!" 

Having  said  that  the  office  of  the  Common  Council  contains  no 
records  of  the  city,  preceding  the  conquest  by  the  British,  I  shall 
add  here  some  tokens  of  the  fact,  that  there  are  numerous  collec- 
tions of  Dutch  records  now  existing  in  the  archives  of  state,  at 

Albany furnishing  a  rich  mine  of  antiquarian  lore  for  some 

future  explorer. 

The  Records  thus  speak,  viz  : — 

Fort  Jimsterdam  (at  New  York)  is  repaired  and  finished  in 
1635. 

Paulus  Hook  is  sold  by  Governor  Keift,  in  1638,  to  Abraham 
Isaacs  Plalik,  for  four  hundred  and  fifty  guilders. 

For  scandalizing  the  governor,  one  Hendrick  Jansen,  in  1638, 
is  sentenced  to  stand  at  the  fort  door,  at  the  ringing  of  the  bell, 
and  ask  the  governor's  pardon. 

For  slandering  the  Rev,  E.  Bogardus,m  1638,  (Pastor  of  the 
Reformed  Church  then  in  the  fort)  a  female  is  obliged  to  appear 
at  the  sound  of  the  bell  at  the  fort,  and  there,  before  the  governor 
and  council,  to  say, "  she  knew  he  was  honest  and  pious,  and  that 
she  lied  falsely." 

N  2 


150  Memorials  of  the  Dutch  Dynasty. 

Torture  was  inflicted  upon  Jan  Hobbes,  who  had  committed 
a  theft.  The  evidence  seemed  sufficient,  but  it  was  adjudged  he 
should  also  make  his  confession  by  torture. 

For  drawing  his  knife  upon  a  person,  one  Guysbert  Van 
Regerslard  was  sentenced,  in  1638,  to  throw  himself  three  times 
from  the  sail-yard  of  the  yacht,  the  Hope,  and  to  receive  from 
each  sailor  there  three  lashes. 

The  wooden  horse  punishment  is  inflicted,  in  Dec.  1638,  upon 
two  soldiers  :  they  sit  thereon  for  two  hours.  This  was  a  mili- 
tary punishment  used  in  Holland.  He  strode  a  sharp  back,  and 
his  body  was  forced  down  to  it  by  a  chain  and  iron  stirrup,  or  a 
weight,  fastened  to  his  legs. 

Goat  milk  and  Goats  appear  as  a  subject  of  frequent  mention 
and  regulation. 

Cases  of  slander  often  appear  noticed;  such  as  that  Jan  Jansen 
complains  of  Adam  Roelants  for  slander,  whereupon  it  was 
ordered  that  each  party  pay  to  the  use  of  poor  the  sum  of  twenty- 
five  guilders  each. 

Tobacco  appears  to  have  been  an  article  of  cultivation,  and  of 
public  concern  and  commerce.  Van  Twiller  had  his  tobacco  farm 
at  Greenwich.  On  the  5th  of  August,  1638,  two  inspectors  were 
nominated  to  inspect  "  tobacco  cultivated  here  for  exportation ;" 
and  on  the  1 9th  August,  same  year,  it  is  recorded  that  because 
of  "  the  high  character  it  had  obtained  in  foreign  countries,^'  any 
adulterations  should  be  punished  with  heavy  penalties.  [This 
agrees  with  the  fact  at  Philadelphia .  county ;  there  they  also,  in 
primitive  days,  sixty  years  after  the  above  facts,  cultivated  to- 
bacco in  fields.] 

A  cattle  fair  was  established,  to  be  held  annually  on  the  15th 
Oct.  and  of  hogs  on  the  1st  Nov.,  beginning  from  the  year  1641. 

Tavern-keepers  ;  none  of  them  shall  Be  permitted  to  give  any 
supper  parties  after  nine  o'clock  at  night.  In  case  of  any  Indian 
being  found  drunk,  his  word,  when  sober,  shall  be  deemed  good 
enough  evidence  against  the  white  person  who  made  him  so. 

The  oath  of  allegiance  was  to  be  taken  by  all  officers  of 
government  as  a  "  test  act,"  by  swearing  "  to  maintain  the  re- 
formed religion,  in  conformity  to  the  word  of  God  and  the  decree 
of  the  Synod  of  Dordretch."  Under  such  solemn  obligations  to 
duty,  it  is  scarcely  to  be  wondered  at,  or  even  condemned,  that 
the  officers  in  authority,  overlooking  the  mild  spirit  of  the  gospel 
of  peace,  and  adhering  to  the  letter  and  the  oath  to  the  Synod,  &c., 
should  be  led  out  to  persecution.  We  therefore  find,  for  we  may 
tell  a  little  of  the  truth  in  this  matter,  that  in  1657  sundry  Quakers, 
"for  publicly  declaring  in  the  streets,"  were  subjected  to  the  dun- 
geon, &c. ;  and  Robert  Hodgson  was  led  at  a  cart  tail,  with  his 
arms  pinioned,  then  beaten  with  a  pitched  rope  until  he  fell; 
afterwards  he  was  set  to  the  wheelbarrow  to  work  at  hard  labour. 


^^/^rt^f^    ^W^l^t^^^- 


p.  151. 


Memorials  of  the  Dutch  Dynasty.  151 

This  continued  until  the  compassion  of  the  sister  of  Governor 
Stuyvesant  being  excited,  her  intercession  with  that  governor 
prevailed  to  set  him  free.  About  the  same  time  John  Bowne, 
ancestor  of  the  present  respectable  family  of  that  name,  was  first 
imprisoned  and  next  banished  for  the  offence  he  gave  as  a  Quaker. 
It  was  an  ordinance  of  that  day,  "  that  any  person  receiving  any 
Quaker  into  their  house,  though  only  for  one  night,  should  forfeit 
£50  !  Little  did  they  understand  in  that  day,  that  "  the  sure  way 
to  propagate  a  new  religion  was  to  proscribe  it." 

Good  Dr.  Cotton,  in  common  with  good  Paul  of  Tarsus,  were 
both  persecutors,  "haling  men  and  women  to  prison,"  and  say- 
ing, "  If  the  worship  be  lawful^  (and  they  the  judges  /)  the  com- 
pelling  to  come  to  it  compelleth  not  to  sin ;  but  the  sin  is  in  the 
will  that  needs  to  be  forced  to  christian  duty  !  So  self  deceiving 
is  bigotry  and  intolerance. 

Governor  Stuyvesant  was  decidedly  a  religious  character — he 
went  so  far,  as  such,  to  obligate  himself  for  half  the  salary  of  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Selyns,  who  besides  preaching  in  the  little  church,  on 
his  own  farm,  was  also  to  instruct  his  negroes  and  those  of  the 
neighbourhood — a  mark  of  benevolence  on  his  part. 

When  the  inhabitants  of  Esopus  were  assaulted,  killed,  and 
made  prisoners,  by  a  surprise  from  the  neighbouring  Indians,  in 
1663)  he  ordered  a  monthly  observance  of  a  day  of  humiliation 
and  prayer, — praying,  also,  for  a  stay  of  the  small-pox,  and  when 
at  the  close  of  the  year,  the  disease  was  arrested,  and  the  prison- 
ers released  by  the  Indians,  he  ordered  a  day  of  thanksgiving, 
after  the  manner  of  the  New  Englanders. 

There  are  some  fine  relics  of  the  Gov.  Stuyvesant  above  referred 
to,  still  preserved  in  his  family,  valuable  to  a  thinking  mind  for 
the  moral  associations  they  afford.  I  saw  them  at  the  elegant 
country  mansion  of  his  descendant  Nicholas  William  Stuyvesant, 
to  wit : — a  portrait  of  Stuyvesant,  in  armour,  which  had  been 
well  executed  in  Holland,  and  probably  while  he  was  yet  an 
admiral  there.  His  head  is  covered  with  a  close  black  cap,  his 
features  strong  and  intrepid,  skin  dark,  and  the  whole  aspect  not 
imlike  our  best  Indian  faces ;  a  kind  of  shawl  or  sash  is  cast  round 
his  shoulder ;  has  a  large  white  shirt  collar  drooping  from  the 
neck  ;  has  small  mustachios  on  his  upper  lip,  and  no  beard  else- 
where shown.  As  I  regarded  this  q\iiet  remains  of  this  once  great 
personage,  I  inwardly  exclaimed  :  and  is  this  he  in  whom  rested 
the  last  hopes  of  the  Netherlanders  in  our  country  ?  Himself 
gone  down  to  "  the  tomb  of  the  Capulets  !"  His  remains  "  rest 
in  hope"  near  by,  in  the  family  vault,  once  constructed  within  the 
walls  of  the  second  built  Reformed  Dutch  church,  which,  for 
pious  purposes,  he  built  at  his  personal  expense  on  his  own  farm. 
The  church  is  gone,  but  the  place  is  occupied  by  the  present  church 
of  St.  Mark.    On  the  outside  wall  of  this  latter  church  I  saw  the 


152  Memorials  of  the  Dutch  Dynasty. 

original  stone  designating  the  body  of  him  whose  rank  and  titles 
stood  thus  inscribed,  to  wit : 

"  In  this  vault,  lies  bgried 
Petrus  Stuyvksant, 
*  late  Captain  General  and  Commander  in  Chief  of  Amsterdam 

in  New  Netherland,  now  called  New-York,  and  the 

Dutch  West  India  Islands. 
Died  in  Au^st,  A.  D.  1682,  aged  eighty  years."* 

A  fine  pear  tree  stands  just  without  the  graveyard  wall,  in  lively 
vigour,  although  so  old  as  to  have  been  brought  out  from  Holland 
and  planted  there  by  the  Governor  Stuyvesant  himself  I  have 
a  picture  of  o/a?  New  York  in  1673,  which  is  framed  with  its' 
wood — as  a  relic. 

Besides  seeing  the  portrait  of  the  governor  and  captain  general 
as  aforesaid  in  his  array  of  manhood,  I  saw  also  a  singular  token 
of  his  puerility  ;  no  less  than  the  very  infant  shirt,  of  fine  holland, 
edged  with  narrow  lace,  in  which  the  chief  was  devoted  in  bap- 
tism and  received  his  christening.  It  perhaps  marks  the  charac- 
ter of  the  age,  in  his  family  thus  preserving  this  kind  of  token.t 

I  saw  also  the  portrait  of  his  son,  done  also  in  Holland,  in  the 
seventeenth  year  of  his  age.  He  is  mounted  upon  a  rampant 
charger ;  his  head  covered  with  a  low  crowned  black  hat,  a  blue 
coat ;  his  white  shirt  sleeves  have  the  cuffs  laced  and  turned  up 
over  the  cuffs  of  the  coat ;  wears  shoes  with  high  heels,  and  his 
silk  hose  came  up  above  his  knees  on  the  outside  of  the  breeches, 
and  appear  there  looped  up  in  their  place. 

There  I  also  saw  portraits  of  Bayard  and  his  wife.  He  appears 
garbed  as  a  priest ;  he  was  father-in-law  to  Governor  Stuyvesant. 

Other  relics  of  the  Stuyvesant  family  might  have  possibly  re- 
mained, but  as  the  family  house,  occupied  by  the  uncle  of  the 
present  Nicholas  William,  was  burnt  in  the  time  of  the  revolution, 
by  some  of  the  persons  of  Sir  Henry  Clinton's  family,  who  staid 
there,  it  is  probable  that  relics  and  papers  have  been  lost.  A 
coloured  woman  died  at  New  York  in  1842,  aged  ninety-six 
years,  who  was  born  in  the  family  of  Gerardus  Stuyvesant,  in 
the  year  1747. 

The  first  known  minister,  appointed  to  the  Dutch  church  in 
New  Amsterdam,  was  the  Rev.  Everardus  Bogardus ;  he  officiat- 
ed in  the  church  erected  in  1642,  within  the  fort.  Thus  making 
it,  as  it  probably  was,  in  the  governmental  rulers  in  the  Nether- 
lands, an  affair  of  military  conformity,  not  unlike  the  chaplain 
concerns  of  modern  warfare.     At  all  events,  we  soon  hear  of  the 


*  He  was  governor  seventeen  years,  from  1647  to  1664. 
\  Stow  says,  christening  shirts  were  given  in  the  time  of  Elizabeth ;  after- 
wards, Apostles'  spoons  were  given  as  memorials. 


Memorials  of  the  Dutch  Dynasty.  153 

people  taking  it  into  their  minds  to  have  another  church,  to  wit ; 
the  old  "  South  Dutch  Church,"  founded  in  1693,  in  Garden  alley, 
and  then  objected  to  as  being  "  too  far  out  of  towne."  A  rare 
demur  in  our  modern  views  oi  distance. 

Besides  the  church  so  granted  without  the  fort,  they  had  also 
conferred  "  a  place  for  a  parsonage  and  garden."  On  the  latter 
being  improved  in  all  the  formal  stiffness  of  cut  box  and  trimmed 
cedar,  presenting  tops  nodding  to  tops,  and  each  alley  like  its 
brother,  the  whole  so  like  Holland  itself,  it  became  attractive  to 
the  public  gaze,  and  so  gave  popular  acceptance  to  the  name  of 
"  Garden  Alley."  The  first  church  of  St.  Nicholas,  though  long 
under  the  care  of  its  tutelary  saint,  fell  at  last  a  prey  to  the  flames 
in  the  fire  of  1791, — then  succeeds  another,  and  finally  again  in 
1835. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Bogardus  above  named,  though  intended  as  an 
example  himself,  could  not  keep  his  wife  exempt  from  reproach, 
or  from  the  vigilance  of  an  "  evil  eye ;  for  on  the  24th  of  October, 
1633,  (it  is  still  on  record  at  Albany)  a  certain  Hendricks  Jansen, 
(a  sapient  reformer  no  doubt)  appeared  before  the  secretary,  and 
certified  that  the  wife  of  the  Rev.  E.  Bogardus,  in  the  public  street, 
drew  up  her  petticoat  a  little  wayP^  Surely  this  was  an  idle 
scandal,  when  Dutch  petticoats  were  of  themselves,  too  short  to 
cover,  even  if  the  matron  would. 

The  towns,  in  what  is  now  Queen's  county  and  Gravesend, 
were  originally  settled  by  English  people  from  New  England,  and 
from  that  cause,  were  usually  called  by  the  Dutch  authorities,  the 
English  towns.  As  such  they  were  much  fostered  and  encour- 
aged by  the  Dutch  rulers. 

A  number  of  the  Puritans  from  New  England,  settled  at  West 
Chester,  then  called,  in  allusion  to  their  coming  from  the  east,  Oost 
dorp,  or  East  town. 

A  number  of  English  residents,  from  the  east,  were  settled  in 
New  Amsterdam; — so  that  the  Dutch  rulers  in  1654,  petitioned 
the  classis  of  Amsterdam,  to  procure  for  them  a  minister,  who 
should  be  able  to  preach  to  them  occasionally  in  English.  Where- 
upon the  Rev.  Samuel  Drisius  was  sent  out  for  that  purpose. 

About  the  same  time,  a  considerable  number  of  French  Vaudois 
or  Waldenses,  came  from  their  persecutions  abroad,  to  settle  in 
the  country — some  settled  on  Staten  Island,  and  some  in  the  city. 
To  these  the  same  Mr.  Drisius  preached  also,  in  French,  both  in 
the  city  and  at  Staten  Island.  New  York  therefore,  at  this  time, 
had  its  several  mixt  proportions  of  Dutch,  French,  and  English 
inhabitants. 


20 


154  t^ncient  Memorials. 


ANCIENT  MEMORIALS. 

"  I'll  note  'em  in  my  book  of  memory." 

The  MSS.  documents  and  recorded  facts  of  New  York  city  and 
colonial  history,  are,  it  is  said,  very  voluminous  and  complete. 
Mr.  Moulton's  history  declares  there  are  one  hundred  volumes 
of  folio,  of  almost  unexplored  MSS.  among  the  records  of  state. 
What  abundant  material  for  research  must  these  afford  whenever 
the  proper  spirit  for  their  investigation  is  awakened ! 

I  am  myself  aware  that  the  city  itself  is  rich  in  "  hoar  anti- 
quity,'^ for  I  have  ascertained  that  numerous  books  of  record  are 
of  ready  access  to  such  congenial  minds  as  can  give  their  affec- 
tions to  the  times  by-gone.  Many  of  them  are  of  the  old  Dutch 
dynasty,  and  have  had  no  translator.  For  instance,  there  are  in 
the  county  clerk's  office  a  book  of  records  of  1656  ;  another  of 
1657 ;  orders  of  the  burgomasters  in  1658 ;  another  of  their  reso- 
lutions and  orders  from  1661  to  1664.  There  are  also  some  books 
of  deeds,  &c.  While  I  write  these  facts,  I  do  it  with  the  hope 
that  I  am  addressing  myself  to  some  youthful  mind  who  will  feel 
the  inspiration  of  the  subject,  and  resolve  to  become  a  student  of 
Dutch,  and  at  some  future  day  to  bring  out,  through  his  researches, 
the  hidden  history  of  his  Dutch  forefathers. 

It  would  be  "  a  work  of  supererogation"  to  aim  at  the  general 
translation  of  such  a  mass  of  papers ;  but  it  is  really  surprising 
that  hitherto  no  "  ardent  spirit,"  greedy  of  antiquarian  lore," 
should  have  been  inspired  to  make  his  gleanings  from  them.  A 
judicious  mind,  seeking  only  the  strange  or  the  amusing  of  the 
"  olden  time,"  might  with  a  ready  facility  extract  their  honey  only, 
and  leave  the  cumbrous  comb  behind.  I  myself  have  made  the 
experiment.  I  found  in  the  office  of  the  common  council  the 
entire  city  records,  in  English,  from  the  year  1675  downwards 
to  the  present  day.  From  tlie  first  volume  embracing  a  period 
of  sixteen  years,  (to  1691,)  I  was  permitted  to  make  the  following 
summary  extracts.  These,  while  they  furnish  in  some  instances 
appropriate  introduction  to  sundry  topics  intended  in  these  pages, 
will  also  show  that  but  a  very  small  portion  of  the  whole  mass 
is  desirable  for  the  entertainment  of  modern  eyes,  and  therefore 
not  to  be  sought  after  ;  it  is  even  satisfying  and  useful  to  know 
how  little  need  be  known. 

It  is  gratifying  to  say,  that  since  penning  the  above  for  the  first 
edition,  and  thus  endeavouring  to  awaken  some  attention  to  the 
rescue  of  hidden  MSS.,  two  gentlemen  have  given  their  minds 
to  the  subject.  J.  R.  Brodhead,  Esq.,  has  been  sent  out  as  agent 
for  the  state  of  New  York  to  search  for  historical  documents  in 


Ancient  Memorials.  155 

Holland,  and  he  writes  from  the  Hague  in  August  1841,  saying 
that  he  has  succeeded  beyond  expectation,  by  being  allowed  by 
the  government  there  to  copy  and  make  as  much  as  tlu-ee  thou- 
sand pages  of  MSS.,  commencing  with  1614,  coming  down  to 
1673,  and  affording  much  insight  into  many  obscure  and  uncer- 
tain parts  of  our  Annals.  He  expects  also  to  procure  MSS.  copies 
from  the  papers  of  the  West  India  Company  at  Amsterdam,  from 
1623. 

Another  gentleman,  Wm.  Dunlap,  Esq.,  who  says  he  derived 
his  impulse  from  me,  has  since  searched  the  old  records  and  made 
out  a  new  History  of  New  York.  In  one  of  his  letters  to  me,  he 
says,  that  he  has  examined  and  extracted  from  all  the  records  of 
the  corporation  of  the  city  up  to  the  formation  of  the  Federal 
government,  but  he  regrets  to  say,  that  he  has  found  a  chasm  in 
Leister^ s  time  ;  and  all  is  gone  or  void  from  June  1774  to  Feb- 
ruary 1784 — (including  all  the  time  of  the  Revolutionary  war! 
Gov.  Tryon  acknowledged  that  he  took  away  the  records  of  some 
of  that  time  !) — which  last  period,  however,  he  has  supplied  from 
the  Tory  Gazettes  of  New  York.  I  shall  use  some  few  of  his 
facts  after  the  year  1691.    (See  page  161.) 

Such  co-labourers  are  not  rivals,  as  some  might  suppose.  They 
have  severally  had  their  department  and  field  of  exercise,  and  I 
have  mine.  Mine  I  know  is  unique — and  much  which  Mr. 
Brodhead,  may  be  expected  to  obtain  will  belong  to  formal  state 
papers,  and  to  stately  history.  A  list  of  some  of  them  will  be 
found  in  another  part  of  this  book  as  "  miscellaneous  facts." 

Among  the  things  communicated  by  Mr.  Brodhead,  is  the  fact, 
under  date  of  1626,  that  the  authorities  at  New  Amsterdam,  had 
bought  the  locality  of  the  present  New  York,  from  the  Indian 
owners,  for  the  sum  of  sixty  guilders,  and  that  they  had  then 
been  producing  there,  their  harvest  of  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats, 
buckwheat,  canary  seed,  beans  and  flax — and  that  their  com- 
mander Crussen,  had  touched  at  the  Virginia  settlement  and 
there  captured  twenty  five  sail  of  English  vessels,  mostly  fully 
laden,  bringing  off  eleven  of  them  laden  with  tobacco  and  destroy- 
ing the  rest  of  them.  A  paper  from  him  of  1659  shows,  that  many 
of  the  "  suppressed  Waldenses,"  must  then  have  formed  a  part 
of  the  New  York  population,  because  fifty  thousand  guilders  are 
appropriated  by  the  city  of  Amsterdam,  for  their  support.  Thus 
early  showing  their  Protestant  sympathies  and  bias. 

I  give  the  following  from  "the  Minutes,"  consecutively  as  they 
occurred ;  to  wit : 

October,  1675  ;  the  canoes  of  the  Indians,  wheresover  found, 
are  to  be  collected  to  the  north  side  of  Long  Island,  as  a  better 
security  to  the  inhabitants  in  case  of  their  having  any  purpose  to 
aid  the  Canadian  enemies.  This  shows  the  Indian  dread  of  that 
day.     At  the  same  time  it  is  ordered  that  all  Indians  near  New 


156  %8.ncient  Memorials. 

York  should  make  their  coming  winter -quarters  at  Hell  Gate,  so 
as  to  be  ready  for  control  or  inspection. 

It  is  ordered,  that  because  of  "  the  abuse  in  their  oyle  caske'' 
on  the  east  end  of  Long  Island,  there  shall  be  a  "  public  tapper 
of  oyle"  in  each  towne  where  the  whaling  design  is  followed. 
Thus  evincing  the  former  business  of  whalers  in  those  parts. 

Governor  Andros  orders,  that  by  reason  of  the  change  of 
government,  the  inhabitants  shall  take  an  oath  of  allegiance  to 
their  new  sovereign.  There  are  only  thirty-six  recorded  names 
who  conform ! 

The  mayor,  on  the  approach  of  new  year's  day,  commands  the 
disuse  of  firing  guns. 

The  city  gates  are  ordered  to  be  closed  every  night  at  nine 
o'clock,  and  to  be  opened  at  daylight.  The  citizens  in  general 
are  to  serve  their  turns  as  watchmen,  or  to  be  fined.  No  cursing 
or  swearing  shall  be  used  by  them.  They  are  carefully  to  go 
frequently  towards  ^'  the  bridge  for  greater  safety.'^  [Meaning, 
I  take  it,  the  bridge  at  the  great  dock  at  the  end  of  Broad  street.] 
Every  citizen,  for  the  purpose  of  guard,  is  always  to  keep  in  his 
house  a  good  fire-lock,  and  at  least  six  rounds  of  ball. 

The  rates  of  tavern  fare  are  thus  decreed  and  ordered : — for 
lodging  2>d.  ;  for  meals  Sd.  ;  brandy  per  gill  6^.y  French  wines, 
a  quart,  1*.  Sd.  ;  syder,  a  quart,  Ad.  ;  double  beere,  a  quart,  3d.; 
and  inum^d,  quart,  ^d. 

The  mayor  proposes  that  they  who  own  convenient  land  to 
build  upon,  if  they  do  not  speedily  build  thereon,  it  shall  be  valued 
and  sold  to  those  who  will.  This  being  proposed  to  the  governor, 
who  as  military  chief,  always  had  a  control  in  the  semi-militaire 
city,  the  same  Avas  afterwards  adopted.  How  valueless  must 
have  been  lots  then,  since  so  estimable,  which  could  thus  "  go  a 
begging' '  in  1675  ! 

In  1676,  all  the  inhabitants  living  in  the  streete  called  the  Here 
Graft,  (the  same  called  Gentlemen's  Canal  once,  now  Broad  street,) 
shall  be  required  to  fill  up  the  graft,  ditch,  or  common  shore,  and 
level  the  same. 

"  Tanners'  pits"  are  declared  to  be  a  nuisance  within  the  city, 
and  therefore  it  is  ordered  they  shall  only  exercise  their  functions 
as  tanners  without  the  towne.  This  ordinance  will  account  for 
the  numerous  tanneries  once  remembered  in  Beekman's  swamp, 
now  again  driven  thence  by  encroaching  population;  but  the 
premises  still  retained  as  curriers  and  leather  dealers,  making  the 
whole  of  that  former  region  still  a  proper  leathern  towne. 

It  is  ordered,  for  the  sake  of  a  better  security  of  a  sufficiency 
of  bread,  that  no  grain  be  allowed  to  be  distilled.  How  many 
wretched  families  of  the  present  day  could  now  profit  by  such  a 
restraint,  who  abound  in  whiskey  and  lack  bread  ! 

It  is  ordered  that  innkeepers  be  fined,  from  whose  houses  In- 
dians may  come  out  drunk  j  and  if  it  be  not  ascertained  by  whom, 


Ancient  Memorials,  157 

the  whole  streete  shall  be  fined  for  the  non-detection.     A  sure 
means,  this,  to  make  every  man  "  his  neighbour's  keeper." 

A  fine  of  twenty  guilders  is  imposed  on  all  Sabbath  breakers. 
The  knowledge  of  such  a  fact  then  may  afford  a  gratification  to 
several  modern  associations. 

In  1676  is  given  the  names  of  all  of  the  then  property  holders, 
amounting  to  only  three  hundred  names,  and  assessed  at  one  dol- 
lar and  a  half  a  pound  on  £99,695.  This  is  a  curious  article  in 
itself,  if  considered  in  relation  to  family  names  or  relative  wealth. 
What  changes  since  "  their  families  were  young."  The  English 
names  of  John  Robinson,  John  Robson,  Edward  Griffith,  James 
Loyde,  and  George  Heathcott,  appear  pre-eminently  rich  among 
their  cotemporaries. 

In  1676  it  is  ordered,  that  for  the  better  security  of  seasonable 
supplies,  all  country  people  bringing  supplies  to  market,  shall  be 
exempt  from  any  arrest  for  debt.  The  market-house  and  plains 
(the  present  "  bowling  green"  site)  afore  the  fort  shall  be  used  for 
the  city  sales. 

It  is  ordered  that  all  slaughter-houses  be  removed  thenceforth 
without  the  city,  "over  the  water,  without  the  gate,  at  the 
Smith's  Fly,  near  the  Half  Moone."  Thus  denoting  "  the  water 
gate"  near  the  present  Tontine  on  Wall  street,  beyond  which 
was  an  invasion  of  water,  near  the  former  "  Vly  market"  on 
Maiden  lane. 

Public  wells,  fire  ladders,  hooks,  and  buckets  are  ordered,  and 
their  places  designated  for  the  use  of  the  city.  Thus  evincing 
the  infant  cradling  of  the  present  robust  and  vigorous  fire  com- 
panies. The  public  wells  were  located  in  the  middle  of  such 
streets  as  Broadway,  Pearl  street,  &c.  and  were  committed  to  the 
surveillance  of  committees  of  inhabitants  in  their  neighbourhoods, 
and  half  of  their  expense  assessed  on  the  owners  of  property 
nearest  them.  Will  the  discovery  of  their  remains,  in  some  future 
day,  excite  the  surprise  and  speculation  of  uninformed  moderns  ? 

A  "  mill  house"  is  taxed  in  "  Mill  street  lane."  Thus  indi- 
cating the  fact  of  a  water-course  and  mill  seat  (probably  the  bark 
mill  of  Ten  Eycke)  at  the  head  of  what  is  now  called  "  Mill 
street."  Thus  verifying  what  I  once  heard  from  the  Phillips 
family,  that  in  early  times,  when  the  Jews  first  held  their  worship 
there,  (their  synagogue  was  built  there  a  century  ago)  they  had 
a  living  spring,  two  houses  above  their  present  lots,  in  which 
they  were  accustomed  to  perform  their  ablutions  and  cleansings 
according  to  the  rites  of  their  religion. 

In  1676,  all  horses  at  range  are  ordered  to  be  branded  and  en- 
rolled ;  and  two  stud  horses  are  "  to  be  kept  in  commons  upon 
this  island." 

Tar  for  the  use  of  vessels,  is  to  be  boiled  only  against  "  the 
wall  of  the  Half  Moon,"  meaning  the  Battery  wall. 

All  the  carmen  of  the  city,  to  the  number  of  twenty,  are  ordered 

0 


158  jincient  Memorials. 

to  be  enrolled,  and  to  draw  for  6d.  an  ordinary  load,  and  to 
remove  weekly  from  the  city  the  dirt  of  the  streets  at  3d.  a  load. 
The  dustmen  showed  much  spunk  upon  the  occasion,  and  com- 
bined to  refuse  full  compliance.  They  proposed  some  modifica- 
tions; but  the  spirit  of  "the  Scout,  Burgomasters,  and  Shepens," 
was  alive  and  vigorous  in  the  city  rulers,  and  they  forthwith 
dismayed  the  whole  body  of  carmen,  by  divesting  all  of  their 
license  who  should  not  forthwith  appear  as  usual  at  the  public 
dock,  pay  a  small  fine  and  make  their  submission.  Only  two 
so  succumbed,  and  a  new  race  of  carmen  arose.  Those  carmen 
were  to  be  trusty  men,  worthy  to  be  charged  with  goods  of  value 
from  the  shipping,  &c. :  wherefore  all  Indian  and  negro  slaves 
were  excluded. 

An  act  is  passed  concerning  the  revels  of  "  Indian  and  negro 
slaves"  at  inns.  At  the  mention  of  Indian  slaves  the  generous 
mind  revolts.  What !  the  virtual  masters  of  the  soil  to  become 
"hewers  of  wood  and  drawers  of  water,"  to  their  cherished 
guests  ?     Sad  lot ! 

ForcM  from  the  land  that  gave  them  birth, 
Or  else  to  slave  for  others  wealth. 

In  1683  twelve  pence  a  ton  is  assessed  on  every  vessel  for 
their  use  of  the  city  dock,  "  as  usually  given,"  and  for  "  the  use 
of  the  bridge  ; "  understood  by  me  to  have  been  as  a  connecting 
appendage  to  the  same  dock. 

Luke  Lancton,  in  1683,  is  made  "  collecter  of  customs"  at  the 
custom-house  near  the  bridge,  and  none  shall  unload  "  but  at  the 
bridge."  The  house  called  Stuyvesant  Huys,"  at  the  north-west 
corner  of  present  Front  and  Moore  streets,  was  in  ancient  days 
called  "  the  custom-house." 

The^  Indians  are  allowed  to  sell  fire-wood,  then  called  "  stick 
wood,"  and  to  vend  "  gutters  for  houses ;"  by  which  I  suppose 
was  meant  long  strips  of  bark,  so  curved  at  the  sides  as  to  lead 
off  water :  else  it  meant  for  the  roof  of  sheds,  even  as  we  now 
see  dwelling-houses  roofed  along  the  road  side  to  Niagara. 

An  act  of  reward,  of  the  year  1683,  is  promulged  for  those 
who  destroy  wolves. 

A  record  of  1683,  speaking  of  the  former  Dutch  dynasty,  says 
the  mayor's  court  was  used  to  be  held  in  the  City  Hall,  where 
they,  the  mayor  and  aldermen,  determined  "  without  appeal."  It 
alleges  also,  that  "  they  had  their  own  clerk,  and  kept  the  records 
of  the  city  distinctly."  Thus  giving  us  thQ  desirable  fact,  that 
"  records"  in  amplitude,  have  once  existed  of  all  the  olden  days 
of  Lang  Syne  !  they  spell  the  name  of  the  island  "  Manhatans." 

Then  none  might  exercise  a  trade  or  calling  unless  as  an 
admitted  "  freeman."  Then  they  might  say  with  the  centurion, 
"  with  a  great  price  bought  I  that  privilege." 

If  a  freeman,  to  use  "handy  craft,"  they  paid  3/.  12^.,  and  for 


Ancient  Memorials,  159 

"  being  made  free,"  they  paid  severally  1/.  4.s.  None  could  then 
trade  up  the  Hudson  river  unless  a  freeman,  who  had  had  at  least 
three  years'  residence  ;  and  if  any  one  by  any  cause  remained 
abroad  beyond  twelve  months,  he  lost  his  franchise,  unless  indeed 
he  "  kept  candle"  and  paid  "  Scott  and  Lott"  ....  terms  to  imply 
his  residence  was  occupied  by  some  of  his  family.  Have  we 
moderns  bettered  the  cautious  policy  of  our  ancestors  in  opening 
our  arms  to  every  "  new  comer  ?"  We  tariiF  goods,  but  put  no 
restraint  on  men,  even  if  competitors.     Do  any  think  of  this  ? 

In  1683  it  was  decreed  that  all  flour  should  be  bolted,  packed, 
and  inspected  in  New  York  city.  This  was  necessary  then  for 
the  reputation  of  the  port  in  its  foreign  shipments.  Besides,  the 
practice  of  bolting  as  now  done  at  mills,  by  water  power,  was 
unknown.  In  primitive  days  the  "bolting  business"  was  a 
great  concern  by  horse  power,  both  in  New  York  and  Philadel- 
phia. 

The  governor  arid  his  council  grant  to  the  city  the  dock  and 
bridge,  provided  it  be  well  kept  and  cleaned ;  if  not,  it  shall  forfeit 
it ;  but  no  duty  shall  be  paid  upon  the  bridge  as  "bridge  money." 

In  1683  the  city  bounds  and  wards  are  prescribed  along  certain 
named  streets.  The  third  or  east  ward  was  bounded  "along 
the  wall,"  and  "'  againe  with  all  the  houses  in  the  Smith  Fly, 
and  without  the  gate  on  the  south  side  of  the  fresh  water." 
Meaning  in  the  above,  "  the  wall"  of  palisades  along  Wall 
street ;  and  by  the  "  fresh  water,"  the  Kolch  or  Collect  fresh 
water. 

In  1683  a  committee,  which  had  been  appointed  to  collect 
ancient  records  respecting  the  city  privileges  of  former  times, 
made  their  report  thereon,  and  therein  name  the  "  City  Hall  and 
yards,"  "  Market  house"  and  "  Ferry  house."  It  says,  Wm. 
Merritt  had  offered  "  for  the  ferry  to  Long  Island"  the  sum  of 
20/.  per  annum  for  twenty  years ;  to  erect  sheds,  to  keep  two 
boats  for  cattle  and  horses,  and  also  two  boats  for  passengers. 
The  ferriage  for  the  former  to  be  Qd.  a-head,  and  for  the  latter 
Id.  Think  of  this,  ye  present  four  cent  "  labour-saving^^  steam- 
boats.    Ye  shun  the  Dutchman's  penny  toil,  but  raise  the  price. 

A  committee,  in  1683,  report  the  use  of  6,000  stochadoes  of  12 
feet  long,  at  a  cost  of  24/.,  used  for  the  repair  of  the  wharf;  i.  e. 
at  the  dock. 

They  ascertain  the  vessels  and  boats  of  the  port,  enrolled  by 
their  names,  to  be  as  follows : — three  barques,  three  brigantines, 
twenty-six  sloops,  and  forty-six  open  boats.  Some  of  their 
names  are  rare  enough. 

An  ordinance  of  1683  orders  that  "no  youthes,  maydes,  or 
other  persons  may  meete  together  on  the  Lord's  Day  for  sporte 
or  play,"  under  a  fine  of  \s.  No  public  houses  may  keep  open 
door  or  give  entertainment  then  except  to  strangers,  under  a  fine 
of  10^.    Not  more  than  four  Indian  or  negro  slaves  may  assemble 


160  n^ncient  Memorials. 

together ;  and  at  no  time  may  they  be  allowed  to  bear  any  fire- 
arms— this  under  a  fine  of  Qs.  to  their  owners. 

A  city  surveyor  "  shall  regulate  the  manner  of  each  building 
on  each  street,"  (even  crooked  and  "  up  and  down"  as  it  then 
was),  so  that  uniformity  (mark  this)  may  be  preserved.  Are  we 
then  to  presume  they  had  no  scheme  or  system,  who  now  com- 
plain of  "winding  narrow  streets,"  and  "cow  paths"  in  the 
mazy  and  triangular  city  ? 

In  1683  markets  were  appointed  to  be  held  three  times  a-week, 
and  to  be  opened  and  sh^t  by  ringing  the  bells.  Cord  wood, 
under  the  name  of  "  stick  wood,"  is  regulated  at  the  length  of 
four  feet. 

A  haven  master  is  appointed  to  regulate  the  vessels  in  the 
mole,  (the  same  before  called  the  dock,)  and  is  to  collect  the  dock 
and  bridge  money. 

A  part  of  the  slaughter-house  (before  appointed)  by  the  Fly, 
is  appointed  in  1683  to  be  a  powder  house,  and  its  owner, 
Garrett  Johnson,  is  made  the  first  keeper  at  1*.  ^d.  a  barrel.  Of 
course,  then  locating  it  at  the  Vly,  as  far  enough  beyond  the 
verge  of  population  to  allow  of  "a  blow  up." 

In  1683  several  streets  therein  named,  are  ordered  to  be  paved 
by  the  owners  concerned,  and  directs  they  shall  plank  up  and 
barricade  before  their  doors  where  needful  to  keep  up  the  earth. 

In  1684  the  city  requests  from  the  king's  government,  the  ces- 
sion of  all  vacant  land,  the  ferry,  City  Hall,  dock,  and  bridge. 

An  order  of  king  James  recognized  and  recorded  in  1685,  pro- 
hibiting all  trade  from  New  York  colony  "with  the  East  Indies," 
that  being  even  then  a  claimed  "  privilege  of  the  company  of 
merchants  of  London."  This  proscribed  East  India  commerce 
had  more  import  than  meets  the  eye,  for  it  virtually  meant  to 
prohibit  trade  (unless  by  special  grant)  with  the  West  Indies. 

In  1685  the  Jews  of  New  York  petition  to  be  allowed  the 
public  exercise  of  their  religion,  and  are  refused  on  the  ground 
that  "  none  are  allowed  by  an  act  of  assembly  so  to  worship,  but 
such  as  profess  a  faith  in  Christ."  Experience  has  since  proved 
that  we  are  nowhere  injured  by  a  more  liberal  and  free  toleration. 
Laws  "  may  bind  the  body  down,  but  cannot  restrain  the  flights 
the  spirit  takes." 

In  1686  a  committee  is  appointed  to  inspect  what  vacant  land 
they  find  belonging  to  Arien  Cornelissen  ;  and  this  entry  is  ren- 
dered curious  by  a  recorded  grant  of  1687,  preserved  in  the  re- 
cords of  the  office  of  the  city  comptroller,  to  this  effect,  saying — 
sixteen  acres  of  the  Basse  Bowery  (by  which  I  understand  low 
or  meadow  farm)  is  hereby  granted  unto  Arien  Cornelissen  for 
the  consideration  of  one  fat  capon  a  year.  Who  now  can  tell  the 
value  of  that  land  for  that  small  and  peculiar  compensation  ? 

In  1691  it  is  ordered  that  there  shall  be  but  one  butcher's  sham- 
bles kept,  and  that  to  be  on  the  green  before  the  fort.     The  next 


Ancient  Memorials.  161 

year  another  (place  for  shambles  I  presume)  is  allowed  under  the 
trees  by  the  Slip.  At  the  same  time  it  is  ordered  that  fish  (as  at 
a  market)  be  sold  at  the  dock  over  against  the  City  Hall.  Thus 
referring  to  the  Hall  as  then  known  on  Pearl  street,  at  the  head 
of  Coentie's  Slip,  under  which  was  also  a  prison. 

The  clerk  of  the  mayor's  court,  in  1691,  is  charged  to  inquire 
after,  and  to  collect  and  preserve  the  books  and  papers  of  the  city, 
and  to  keep  them  safely  with  an  inventory  thereof.  May  not 
this  record  present  an  index  hand  to  guide  to  some  discovery  of 
such  historical  rarities  ? 

The  mayor  rents  a  shop  or  shops  in  the  Market-house.  One 
John  Ellison  is  named  as  paying  3/.  for  such  a  shop. 

In  1691  it  is  ordered  that  the  inhabitants  by  the  waterside, 
"  from  the  City  Hall  to  the  Slip,"  are  to  help  build  the  wharf  to 
run  out  before  their  lots ;  and  every  male  negro  in  the  city  is  to 
help  thereat  with  one  day's  work. 

The  hucksters  of  that  day,  even  as  now,  were  very  trouble- 
some in  forestalling  the  market,  and  laws  were  made  to  restrain 
them. 

The  bakers,  too,  had  their  ordeal  to  pass,  and  the  regula- 
tion and  limit  of  bread-loaves  is  often  under  the  notice  of  the 
council.      This  ends  my  extracts,  from  first  MS.  Vol. 

The  following  facts  I  have  derived  from  the  further  researches 
and  industry  of  my  friend,  Wm.  Dunlap  Esq.,  as  referred  to  on 
page  155,  to  wit: 

1692.  Ordered,  that  the  poisonous  and  stinking  weeds  before 
every  one's  house,  be  plucked  up,  under  three  shillings  penalty. 

A  market  house  for  meat,  is  ordered  to  be  built  at  the  end  of 
the  Heergraft  street — [foot  of  Broad  street.] 

A  piece  of  land  at  the  foot  of  Golden  Hill,  is  leased  to  a  man 
and  his  wife,  during  their  lives,  for  six  shillings  a  year,  provided 
they  build  a  small  house,  and  leave  it  to  the  corporation  at  their 
death.  How  many  thousand  dollars  would  the  same  locality 
bring  now  ! 

Ordered  that  the  lots  between  the  Burgers  path,  [back  of  Co- 
entie's  slip,]  and  the  block  house,  be  divided  into  thirteen,  and 
exposed  to  sayle, — and  in  another  order,  it  is  declared  that  all 
the  land  in  front  of  the  Fly,  (meadow,  or  swamp  land)  from  the 
block  house  unto  the  hill  next  to  Beekman's,  be  sold.  A  block 
house  once  in  New  York,  will  be  a  new  thing  to  many.  Wall 
street,  in  1744,  as  then  seen  by  Abeel,  had  block  houses  and 
palisades  along  Wall  street,  from  river  to  river. 

1693.  On  an  apprehension  of  a  French  war,  it  is  ordered,  by 
Governor  Fletcher,  that  a  platform  be  made  on  the  rocks,  under 
the  fort,  whereon  may  be  erected  a  battery  to  command  both 
rivers.  At  the  same  time,  all  the  freemen  with  their  servants  to 
work  on  the  defences,  including  "  all  Indians,  negroes  and  others 
not  listed  in  the  militia." 

21  0  2 


162  Jincient  Memorials. 

The  houses  enumerated  this  year,  are  five  hundred  and  ninety- 
four,  and  "  lands  had  advanced  to  ten  times  their  former  value.'* 

1697.  Upon  an  occasion  of  absolving  the  militia  from  the  night 
guard,  during  the  winter,  it  was  ordered  that  four  citizens  perform 
the  same.  It  was  also  ordered,  that  during  the  dark  nights,  the 
house-keepers  shall  put  Hghts  in  their  windows,  fronting  on  the 
streets,  and  during  the  dark  time  of  the  moon,  every  seventh 
house-holder  should  hang  out  a  lanthorn  and  candle  on  a  pole, 
every  night. 

1699.  On  occasion  of  letting  the  Ferry  for  seven  years,  it  was 
determined,  that  the  lessee  should  provide  two  great  boats,  or 
scows,  for  cattle,  &c.,  and  two  small  boats  for  passengers — the 
fare  for  a  single  person,  to  be  eight  stivers  in  wampum — or  a 
silver  two-pence  ;  a  horse,  one  shilling,  &c. 

1702.  The  dock  and  slips  of  the  city  are  rented  to  James 
Spencer,  carpenter,  for  twenty-five  pounds — he  to  clear  the  dock 
and  slips  and  keep  them  clean,. and  build  a  wharf  enclosing  the 
dock. 

1704.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Vesey,  missionary  and  first  minister  of 
Trinity  church,  opened  a  catechising  school  for  Blacks,  His 
name  appears  often,  as  receiving  five  pounds  for  the  Corporation 
Sermon.  Now  they  prefer  dinners.  It  is  from  him  that  we  have 
the  name  of  Vesey  street. 

The  city  corporation  occasionally  orders  cord-wood  for  the 
field,  and  some  six  or  eight  gallons  of  wine,  to  raise  a  cheering, 
and  a  bonfire,  for  public  celebrations. 

The  common  council,  in  taking  their  oath  of  office,  swear  that 
they  do  not  believe  in  transubstantiation, — that  the  bread  and 
wine  in  the  Lord's  supper,  is  not  converted  into  the  body  and 
blood  of  Christ, — they  also  abjure  the  invocation  of  the  Virgin, 
and  the  sacrifice  of  the  Mass. 

The  25th  of  December,  1705,  is  recorded  as  the  coldest  day 
ever  known.    The  Hudson  river  was  frozen  over  several  days. 

There  is  frequent  mention  of  Indian  slaves. 

1716.  A  law  was  passed  for  regulating  midwives — they  were 
to  be  sworn  to  faithful  service,  to  commit  no  frauds  in  changing 
children ;  not  to  be  accessary  to  any  pretended  deliveries ;  not  to 
assist  in  any  frauds,  or  concealments  of  births — and  never  to 
speak  of  the  secrets  of  their  office. 

Public  whipping  of  "slaves,  negroes  and  Indians,"  was  as 
common  as  exuberant  spirits  and  mischiefs  could  make  them. 
If  found  out  too  late  at  night,  or  too  many  together,  in  noisy 
gambols,  or  if  gaming  for  and  with  copper  pennies — then  to  be 
whipped,  and  the  owner  to  pay  the  church  wardens  three  shillings, 
— what  a  fund  for  the  merciful  gospel !  The  public  whipper  to 
have  five  pounds  a  quarter. 

1730.  Notice  is  given,  that  whoever  inclines  to  perform  the 
foot-post  to  Albany  this  winter,  is  to  make  application  to  Richard 


•Ancient  Memorials.  163 

Nichols,  the  post-master.    Only  think  of  a  fooi-posi,  all  the  dreary 
V,  ay  to  Albany,  in  mid -winter  !  What  a  wretch  ! 

1731.  Two  complete  fire  engines  ordered  out  from  England, 
and  hooks  and  ladders  are  to  be  made.  This  probably  indicates 
the  first  attempt  at  public  measures  for  the  suppression  of  fires. 

This  year,  the  small-pox  was  very  prevalent,  and  very  fatal — 
causing  great  dread,  and  causing  upwards  of  five  hundred  deaths, 
in  a  little  more  than  two  months. 

1733.  Mr.* Silas  Wood,  gives  the  population  of  the  province 
this  year  to  be  50,291,  of  which  Long  Island  possessed  one  third, 
say,  17,820  ;  7231  of  the  preceding  were  slaves.  New  York  city 
contained,  8628  souls.  Think  of  the  increase  in  one  cenlury,and 
what  may  it  be  in  another ! 

In  1735,  "  the  first  stone  of  the  platform  of  the  new  battery  on 
White  Hall  rocks,  was  laid  by  the  governor,  and  was  called 
George  Augustus'  Royal  battery.  This  probably  was  the  renewal 
of  a  former  inferior  battery,  ordered  by  Gov.  Fletcher,  in  1693. 

1744.  It  was  ordered,  that  all  house-holders  should,  every 
Friday,  rake  and  sweep  together  all  the  dirt  and  filth,  lying  in 
the  streets  before  their  respective  houses,  and  then  cause  the  same 
to  be  carried  away,  or  cast  into  the  river. 

\1A1.  Such  was  the  dread  of  small-pox,  that  the  governor 
had  to  prohibit  its  inoculation,  temporarily,  whilst  fearing  an 
invasion,  lest  the  country  people  fearing  the  disease,  should  not 
come  to  the  assistance  of  the  city. 

1757.  Such  was  the  dread  of  impressment  even  in  and  near 
New  York  harbour,  that  Governor  Hardy,  for  the  sake  of  his 
own  good  living  in  the  city,  was  obliged  to  encourage  marketing 
from  the  country,  by  making  his  proclamation,  that  all  boatmen, 
and  marketmen,  who  came  to  or  from  the  city,  "  shall  not  be  im- 
pressed while  bringing  provisions  and  other  necessaries,"  &c. 
Cases  of  impressment  are  occasionally  mentioned.  Perhaps  it 
was  from  a  dread  of  such  encroachments  on  personal  freedom, 
that  led  to  the  practice  of  women  rowing  the  market  boats,  at 
New  York,  in  the  provincial  times ! 

The  15th  of  January,  1761,  the  Narrows  were  frozen  over, — 
on  the  18th  of  June,  1764,  the  light-house  on  Sandy  Hook,  was 
lighted  for  the  first  time, — how  difficult  must  have  been  the  pas- 
sage before  that  help  and  guide  ! 

Such  are  the  amusing  as  well  as  instructive  incidents  of  the 
ancient  days  in  New  York,  from  which  "  the  thinking  bard" 
may  "  cull  his  pictur'd  stores."  Through  such  mazes,  down  "hoar 
antiquity," 

"The  eye  explores  the  feats  of  elder  days." 

It  may  well  encourage  to  further  research  to  know  the  fact, 
that  I  considered  myself  as  gleaning  from  that  first  volume,*  all, 

•  Referred  to  on  page  155. 


164  Notices  of  Early  Dutch   Times. 

in  the  few  preceding  pages,  which  I  deemed  the  proper  material 
for  the  amusements  of  history.  If  we  would  make  the  incidents 
of  the  olden  time  familiar  and  popular,  by  seizing  on  the  affec- 
tions and  stirring  the  feelings  of  modern  generations,  we  must 
first  delight  them  with  the  comic  and  strange  of  history,  and  after- 
wards win  them  to  graver  researches.  "  Anecdotes  of  men  and 
things  (  says  Blackwood)  will  have  a  charm,  as  long  as  man  has 
curiosity."  They  who  cater  for  such  appetites,  should  always 
consider  that  there  is  a  natural  passion  for  the  marvellous  in  every 
breast ;  and  that  every  writer  may  be  sure  of  his  reader  who 
limits  his  selections  to  facts  which  mark  the  extremes  of  our  rela- 
tive existence,  or  to  objects  "on  which  imagination  can  delight 
to  be  detained."  But  there  are  means  of  inquiry  exclusive  of 
memorials  and  records;  such  as  the  recollections  and  observa- 
tions of  living  witnesses,  respecting  "  men  and  manners"  of  other 
days,  and  of  things  gone  down  to  oblivion.  These  they  retain 
with  a  lively  impression,  because  of  their  original  interest  to 
themselves ;  and  for  that  reason  they  are  generally  of  such  cast 
of  character  as  to  afibrd  the  most  gratifying  contemplations  to 
those  who  seek  them. 

From  a  lively  sense  of  this  fact,  I  have  been  most  sedulous  to 
make  my  researches  among  the  living  chronicles,  just  waning  to 
their  final  exit.  These  can  only  be  consulted  now,  or  never. 
From  such  materials  we  may  hope  to  make  some  provision  for 
future  works  of  poetry,  painting,  and  romance.  It  is  the  raw 
material  to  be  elaborated  into  fancy  tales  and  fancy  characters 
by  the  Irvings,  Coopers,  and  Pauldings  of  our  country.  By  such 
means  we  generate  the  ideal  presence,  and  raise  an  imagery  to 
entertain  and  aid  the  mind.  We  raise  stories,  wherein  "  sweet 
fiction  and  sweet  truth  alike  prevail." 


NOTICES  OF  EARLY  DUTCH  TIMES. 

"  Such  once ; — no  longer  such — are  passed  away." 

In  endeavouring  to  rescue  from  oblivion,  some  of  the  early 
traits  of  character  which  marked  the  age  of  the  founders,  we 
may,  with  Moulton's  history,  notice  but  to  condemn  it — that 
"  affectation  of  squeamishness  in  some,  who  now  revolt  at  the 
idea  of  coming  in  contact  with  the  rude  founders  of  our  country, 
as  if  such  facts  of  our  domestic  history  were  beneath  the  dignity 
of  history,  so  called :  they  would  restrict  it  only  to  great  person- 
ages and  great  events;  and  thus  by  too  much  generalization  lose 
in  individual  interest  more  than  could  be  gained  in  abstract 
philosophy  and  politics." 


Stadt  Huys,  at  Coenties  Slip,  1642  to  1700,  p.  176  and  351. 


Ferry  House,  corner  of  Broad  and  Garden  Streets,  p.  182. 


Notices  of  Early  Dutch  Times.  165 

We  shall  therefore  endeavour  to  exhibit  something  character- 
istic of  the  times,  the  doings,  and  the  famihar  concerns,  of  those 
Dutch  burghers. 

The  Dutch  Reformed  were  always  thorough  church-going 
members,  and  fully  fraught  with  ardent  zeal  for  all  the  faith  of 
Calvin.  They  therefore  gave  no  countenance  to  Lutherans, 
Jews,  Quakers,  &c.  But  when  the  English  came  to  rule,  it  suffi- 
ciently chagrined  them  to  see  Governor  Lovelace  so  lax,  as  in 
1674  to  authorize  the  Lutheran  congregation  to  erect  a  church, 
and  to  "seek  benevolence  from  their  brethren  here  and  on  the 
Delaware.^'  It  was  about  this  time  that  Edmundson,  a  friend 
from  England,  was  allowed  to  preach  to  such  as  would  assemble. 
He  held  his  first  meeting  at  an  inn,  where  the  magistrates  also 
attended,  probably  as  much  to  check  and  restrain  errors  as  to 
profit  themselves.  The  celebrated  Geo.  Fox  was  also  in  the 
neighbourhood,  preaching  on  Long  Island,  and  particularly  to  a 
congregation  under  a  great  oak  tree,  still  standing  at  Flushing, 
the  property  of  the  Bowne  family.  All  this  toleration  was 
strikingly  different  from  the  previous  rule  under  the  Dutch  gov- 
ernor Stuyvesant.  He  had  ordered  the  head  of  the  above-named 
family  out  to  Holland  for  trial,  for  the  public  performance  of  his 
religious  views  as  a  Quaker.  About  that  time  the  public  peace 
had  been  disturbed  by  those  Quakers,  whom  the  Friends  them- 
selves sometimes  censured  as  "  ranters."  Such  a  one,  as  the  re- 
cords state,  "  pretending  to  be  divinely  inspired,  came  into  the  city 
and  made  terrible  hue  and  cry  in  the  streets  and  on  the  bridge, 
crying  woe,  woe,  to  the  crowne  of  pride  and  the  drunkards  of 
Ephraim :  Twoo  woes  past,  and  the  third  coming,  except  you 
repent.  Repent — repent,  as  the  kingdom  of  God  is  at  hand !" 
He  also  entered  the  church,  making  a  great  noise,  for  the  purpose 
of  disturbance,  as  their  manner  was.  Finally,  he  was  prosecuted, 
flogged,  and  banished.  ^ 

The  Dutch  Reformed  Church — ^^Uhe  Gereformeerde  Kerck," 
was  erected  within  the  fort  by  Gov.  Keift  in  1642,  being  a  stone 
structure,  with  split  oaken  shingles,  then  called  "  wooden  slate." 
The  cause  and  manner  of  its  establishment  has  been  curiously 
related  by  De  Vries,  saying,  "  as  I  was  every  day  with  Comdr. 
Keift,  I  told  him,  that  as  he  had  now  made  a  fine  tavern — the 
Stadt-herberg,  at  Coentie's  slip — that  we  also  wanted  very  badly 
a  church  ;  for  until  then  we  had  nothing  but  a  mean  barn  (in 
appearance)  for  our  worship ;  whereas  in  New  England,  their 
first  concern  was  a  fine  church,  and  we  ought  to  do  the  same. 
Wherefore,  I  told  him  I  would  contribute  a  hundred  guilders, 
and  he  as  governor,  should  precede  me.  Whereupon  we  agreed, 
and  chose  J.  P.  Kuyster  and  I.  C.  Damen,  with  themselves,  as  four 
Kerck-Meesters  to  superintend  the  building.'  John  and  Richard 
Ogden  contracted  to  build  the  same  of  stone  for  2500  guilders, 
say  £416.     It  was  to  be  seventy-two  feet  by  fift^^'-two  feet,  and 


166  Notices  of  Early  Dutch   Times. 

sixteen  feet  high.  After  its  construction,  the  town  bell  was  re- 
moved to  it.  There  it  was  a  kind  oifac  iotum,  and  may  possibly 
account  for  the  present  partiality  for  campanalary  music  still  so 
fostered  and  prevalent  in  New  York.  All  mechanics  and  labourers 
began  and  ended  work  at  the  ringing  ;  all  tavern-keepers  shut 
house  after  the  ringing ;  courts  and  suitors  assembled  at  the  ring- 
ing ;  and  deaths  and  funerals  were  announced  by  the  toll.  An 
earlier  church  was  built  on  the  Battery  ground,  which  was  pulled 
down  in  1642,  when  the  above  one  was  built.  The  earliest  church 
records  are  lost — but  records  of  baptism  exist,  and  have  been  con- 
tinued ever  since  1620.  The  earliest  list  of  enrolled  members, 
begins  in  1649,  at  which  time,  three  hundred  names  appear. 

New  York,  like  other  colonies,  had  also  its  plague  of  witchcraft. 
In  1665,  a  man  and  wife  were  arraigned  and  tried  as  witches, 
and  a  special  verdict  of  guilty  was  brought  in  by  the  jury  against 
one  of  them.  In  1 672  the  inhabitants  of  West  Chester  complained 
to  the  governor  and  council  against  a  witch  which  had  come 
among  them ;  she  having  been  before  imprisoned  and  condemned 
as  a  witch  at  Hartford.  In  1673  a  similar  complaint  was  also 
made  ;  but  the  military  governor,  Capt.  Colve,  a  son  of  the  ocean, 
not  under  this  land  influence  perhaps,  treated  it  as  idle  or  super- 
stitious, and  so  dismissed  the  suit.  We  thus  see  that  Salem  was 
not  exclusive  in  her  alarms ;  but  that  New  York,  Connecticut, 
Pennsylvania,  and  Virginia,  each  severally  had  their  trials  of 
witchcraft. 

The  city  schoolmasters  were  always,  ex  officio,  clerks,  choristers, 
and  visiters  of  the  sick. 

In  the  early  times,  reed  and  straw  roofs  and  wooden  chimneys 
were  so  common  in  ordinary  houses,  that  they  had  regularly  ap- 
pointed overseers  to  inspect  them  and  guarcf  them  against  fires. 

They  were  accustomed  to  plant  May-poles  on  New  Year's  and 
May-days.  Sometimes  they  planted  a  May-pole,  adorned  with 
ragged  stockings,  before  the  door  of  a  newly- wedded  bridegroom. 

The  Dutch  were  remarkable  in  their  choice  of  high  sounding 
names  for  their  vessels ;  an  old  record,  describing  a  collection  at 
one  time  in  New  York,  gives  such  names  as  the  following,  to  wit : 
The  Angel  Gabriel,  King  David,  Queen  Esther,  King  Solomon, 
Arms  of  Renselaerwyck,  Arms  of  Stuy  vesant.  The  Great  Christo- 
pher, the  Crowned  Sea  Bears,  the  Spotted  Cow,  &c. 

Wm.  P.  Van  Rensselaer,  Esq.  of  Beverwyck,  has  in  his  posses- 
sion the  wedding  ring  which  belonged  to  the  wife  of  the  first 
Patroon,  preserved  with  family  regard  since  1627 — and  Gen.  Van 
Cortland  has  a  gold  watch,  which  came  out  with  his  forefathers. 

New  York  was  once  distinguished  for  its  manufacture  and 
trade  in  Indian  wampum,  called  seaivant,  deriving  the  material 
from  Long  Island,  which  place  the  Indians  called  Seivanhacky, 
importing  the  Land  of  Shells.  They  made  the  chief  of  it  from 
periwinkles  and  quahaugs,  (clams),  and  sometimes  from  the 


Notices  of  Early  Dutch  7\mes.  167 

inside  of  oyster  shells.*  This,  when  rounded  into  proper  shape, 
became  the  proper  money  of  the  Indians;  and  with  this,  all  who 
purposed  to  trade  with  them  for  furs,  &c.  provided  themselves  at 
New  York.  A  letter  of  Governor  Penn's  is  on  record,  wherein 
he  speaks  of  his  having  sent  there  from  Philadelphia  to  make 
"his  purchases  of  wampum,  at  great  prices."  For  numerous 
years,  while  coin  was  scarce  or  unnecessary,  it  was  the  custom 
to  pay  oflf  the  company's  officers,  and  even  the  clergy  too,  in  sea- 
want  or  beavers.  The  current  value  of  the  sea  want  was  six 
beads  of  the  white,  or  three  of  the  black,  for  an  English  penny. 
The  value  and  importance  once  attached  to  this  seemingly  strange 
money  in  our  consideration  now,  may  be  seen  set  forth,  in  1641, 
in  an  ordinance  of  the  city  council  sanctioned  by  Governor  Keift, 
saying,  "  that  a  great  deal  of  bad  sea  want,  nasty  rough  things, 
imported  from  other  places,"  was  in  circulation,  while  "  the  good 
splendid  sea  want,  usually  called  Manhattan's  seawant,  was  out 
of  sight  or  exported,  which  must  cause  the  ruin  of  the  country  f' 
Therefore,  it  is  added,  that  "  all  coarse  seawant,  well  stringed, 
should  pass  at  six  for  one  stuyver  only ;  but  that  the  well  polished, 
at  four  for  a  stuyver."  In  1657,  they  were  publicly  reduced  from 
six,  to  eight  for  a  stuyver,  which  is  two-pence.  The  wampum 
was  used  greatly  by  the  Indians  to  decorate  and  ornament  their 
persons.  The  women  strung  theirs,  and  hung  them  round  their 
necks,  and  sewed  them  on  their  mocassins  and  mantles. 

The  Dutch  bore  several  names  among  the  Indians.  They 
called  them  Swannakwak  or  Sivanekens  ;  also  Jlssyreoni,  the 
cloth  makers  ;  Charistooni,  the  iron  workers  ;  Sankhicanni,  the 
fire  workers,  in  allusion  to  their  use  of  matchlocks. 

The  lands  on  York  Island,  without  the  bounds  of  the  town 
walls,  along  'Wall  street,  appertained  to  the  company,  and  were 
either  used  for  public  grazing  grounds,  for  the  town  cows,  sheep, 
or  swine,  or  else  for  the  governor's  farms,  under  the  names  of 
Bouwerys.  The  Bouwery  or  farm  sold  to  Governor  Stuyvesant 
in  1631,  now  so  invaluable  as  building  lots  in  the  hands  of  his 
descendants,  was  originally  purchased  by  him  for  6,400  guilders 
(1,066/.),  and  having  besides  the  land,  "  a  dwelling-house,  barn, 
reek  lands,  six  cows,  two  horses,  and  two  young  negroes." 

On  another  farm  the  company  erected  a  wint  molen  (wind- 
mill) for  the  use  of  the  town.  Its  site  was  by  the  Broadway, 
between  the  present  Liberty  and  Courtland  streets.  The  first 
having  decayed,  it  was  ordered,  in  1662,  that  there  be  another  on 
the  same  ground  "  outside  of  the  city  land-port  (gate)  on  the 
company's  farm." 

There  was  once  a  water  mill  near  the  Kolch,  havmg  its  outlet 

•  Heckewelder  says,  "The  universal  name  the  Monseys  had  for  New  York 
was  Laapawachkingf  the  place  of  stringing  wampum  beads.  Those  Indians  say- 
ing, that  once  the  Indians  there  were  every  where  seen  stringing  beads  and 
wampum  which  the  whites  gave  them." 


168  Notices  of  Early  Dutch   Times. 

of  water  to  the  North  river.  In  order  to  obtain  more  water  for 
the  mill,  the  use  of  the  valleys  was  granted  to  the  miller ;  and  as 
the  race  he  had  dug  admitted  the  salt  water  occasionally  into  the 
kolch  of  fresh  water,  to  its  injury,  he  was  required  by  law,  in 
1661,  to  hang  a  waste  gate  so  as  to  bar  the  passage  of  the  salt 
water. 

Washington  Irving,  when  he  wrote  his  facetious  notices  of  New 
York  manners,  in  his  Knickerbocker,  accurately  depicted  life,  as 
it  passed  in  the  early  colonial  days,  saying, — "  In  those  good 
days  of  simplicity  and  sunshine,  a  passion  for  cleanliness  was  the 
leading  principle  in  domestic  economy,  and  the  universal  test  of 
an  able  house-wife;  a  character  which  formed  the  utmost  ambition 
of  our  unenlightened  grandmothers.  The  front  door  was  never 
opened  except  on  marriages,  funerals,  new  years'  days,  the  festival 
of  St.  Nicholas,  or. some  such  great  occasion.  It  was  ornamented 
with  a  gorgeous  brass  knocker,  curiously  wrought,  sometimes  in 
the  device  of  a  dog's,  and  sometimes  of  a  lion's  head,  and  was 
daily  burnished  with  such  assiduity,  that  it  was  sometimes  worn 
out  by  the  very  precautions  taken  for  its  preservation.  The  whole 
house  was  constantly  in  a  state  of  inundation,  under  the  discipline 
of  mops  and  brooms  and  scrubbing  brushes ;  and  the  good  wives 
of  those  days  were  a  kind  of  amphibious  animal,  delighting  ex- 
ceedingly, to  be  dabbling  in  water. 

"  The  grand  parlour  was  the  sanctum  sanctorum,  where  the 
passion  for  cleaning  was  most  indulged.  In  this  sacred  apartment 
no  one  was  permitted  to  enter,  excepting  the  mistress  and  her 
confidential  maid,  who  visited  it  once  a  week,  for  the  purpose  of 
giving  it  a  thorough  cleaning  and  putting  things  to  rights,  always 
taking  the  precaution  of  leaving  their  shoes  at  the  door,  and 
entering  lightly  on  their  stocking  feet.  After  scrubbing  the  floor 
and  sprinkling  it  with  fine  white  sand,  which  was  curiously 
stroked  into  angles  and  curves  with  a  broom ;  after  washing  the 
windows,  rubbing  and  polishing  the  furniture,  and  putting  a  new 
bunch  of  evergreens  in  the  fireplace,  the  window  shutters  were 
again  closed,  to  keep  out  the  flies,  and  the  room  carefully  locked 
up,  until  the  revolution  of  time  brought  round  the  weekly  clean- 
ing day. 

"  As  to  the  family,  they  always  entered  in  at  the  gate,  and 
most  generally  lived  in  the  kitchen.  To  have  seen  a  numerous 
household  assemble  around  the  fire,  one  would  have  imagined 
that  he  was  transported  back  to  those  happy  days  of  primeval 
simplicity,  which  float  before  our  imaginations  like  golden  visions. 
The  fireplaces  were  of  a  truly  patriarchal  magnitude,  where  the 
whole  family,  old  and  young,  master  and  servant,  black  and  white, 
nay  even  the  cat  and  dog,  enjoyed  a  community  of  privilege,  and 
had  each  a  right  to  a  corner.  Here  the  old  burgher  would  sit  in 
perfect  silence,  pufling  his  pipe,  looking  in  the  fire  with  half-shut 
eyes,  and  thinking  of  nothing,  (in  happy  absence  from  care,)  for 


Notices  of  Early  Dutch   Times.  169 

hours  together ;  the  goede  vrouw,  on  the  opposite  side^  would 
employ  herself  diligently  in  spinning  yarn,  or  knitting  stockings. 
The  young  folks  would  crowd  around  the  hearth,  listening  with 
breathless  attention  to  some  old  crone  of  a  negro,  who  was  the 
oracle  of  the  family,  and  who,  perched  like  a  raven  in  a  corner 
of  the  chimney,  would  croak  forth  for  a  long  winter  afternoon, 
a  string  of  incredible  stories  about  New  England  witches,  grisly 
ghosts,  and  hair-breadth  escapes,  and  bloody  encounters  among 
the  Indians. 

"  In  these  primitive  days,  a  well  regulated  family  always  rose 
with  the  dawn,  dined  at  eleven,  and  went  to  bed  at  sundown. 
Dinner  was  invariably  a  private  meal,  and  the  fat  old  burghers 
showed  incontestible  symptoms  of  disapprobation,  and  uneasi- 
ness at  being  surprised  by  a  visit  from  a  neighbour  on  such 
occasions.  But  though  our  worthy  ancestors  were  thus  singu- 
larly averse  to  giving  dinners,  yet  they  kept  up  the  social  bands 
of  intimacy,  by  occasional  banquetings,  called  tea-parties.  These 
fashionable  parties  were  generally  confined  to  the  higher  classes, 
that  is  to  say,  such  as  kept  their  own  cows,  and  drove  their 
own  wagons.  The  company  generally  assembled  about  three 
o'clock,  and  went  away  at  six,  unless  it  was  in  winter  time, 
when  the  visit  was  a  little  earlier,  that  the  ladies  might  get  home 
before  dark.  Sometimes  the  table  was  graced  with  apple-pies, 
or  saucers  full  of  preserved  peaches  and  pears,  but  it  was 
always  sure  to  boast  of  dough-nuts,  or  oly  koeks,  with  plenty 
of  fried  ham,  cut  up  in  convenient  morsels,  and  well  charged 
with  gravy. 

"  The  tea  was  served  out  of  a  majestic  delft  tea-pot,  ornamented 
with  paintings  of  fat  little  Dutch  shepherds  and  shepherdesses, 
tending  pigs,  with  boats  sailing  in  the  air,  and  houses  built  in  the 
clouds,  and  sundry  other  ingenious  Dutch  fantasies.  The  beaux 
distinguished  themselves  by  their  adroitness  in  replenishing  this 
pot,  from  a  huge  copper  tea-kettle,  which  might  make  the  beaux 
of  the  present  day  sweat  merely  to  look  at  it !  To  sweeten  the 
beverage,  a  lump  of  sugar  was  laid  beside  each  cup,  and  the 
company  alternately  nibbled  and  sipped  with  great  decorum. 

"  In  such  parties,  the  utmost  propriety  and  dignity  of  deport- 
ment prevailed.  No  flirting,  no  coquetting,  no  gambolling  of 
old  ladies,  nor  hoyden  chattering  and  romping  of  young  ones, 
no  self-satisfied  struttings  of  wealthy  gentlemen,  with  their  brains 
in  their  pockets,  nor  amusing  conceits,  and  monkey  divertisements 
of  smart  young  gentlemen  with  no  brains  at  all.  On  the  contrary, 
tlie  young  ladies  seated  themselves  demurely  in  their  rush -bot- 
tomed chairs,  and  knit  their  own  woollen  stockings ;  speaking 
but  little,  and  chiefly  in  brief  answers  to  questions  put  to  them, 
few  and  far  between.  As  to  the  gentlemen,  each  of  them  tran- 
quilly smoked  his  pipe,  and  seemed  lost  in  contemplation  of  the 
22  P 


170  Notices  of  Early  Dutch   Times. 

blue  and  white  tiles  with  which  the  fireplaces  were  decorated ; 
wherein  sundry  passages  of  scripture  were  piously  portrayed. 

"  The  parties  broke  up  without  noise  and  without  confusion — 
all  carried  home  in  their  own  carriages,  that  is  to  say,  by  the 
vehicles  nature  had  provided  them.  The  gentlemen  gallantly 
attended  their  fair  ones  to  their  respective  abodes,  and  took  leave 
of  them  with  a  hearty  smack  at  the  door ;  which,  as  it  was  an 
established  piece  of  etiquette,  done  in  perfect  simplicity  and 
honesty  of  heart,  (the  lady  owing  something  for  the  attention,) 
occasioned  no  scandal  at  that  time,  nor  should  it  now  from  us, 
when  thus  contemplating  the  past. 

"  Even  the  female  sex, — those  arch  innovaters  of  modes  and 
forms,  seemed  for  a  while  to  conduct  themselves  with  incredible 
sobriety  and  comeliness.  Their  hair,  untortured  by  the  abomina- 
tions of  art,  was  scrupulously  pomatumed  back  from  their  fore- 
heads, with  suet  tallow,  and  covered  with  a  little  cap  of  quilted 
calico,  which  fitted  exactly  to  their  heads.  Their  petticoats  of 
linsey-woolsey,  were  striped  with  gorgeous  dyes.  These  were 
indeed  rather  short,  but  what  they  needed  in  length,  was  made 
up  in  numbers,  which  generally  equalled  that  of  the  gentlemen's 
small  clothes ;  and  what  was  still  more  praiseworthy,  they  were 
all  of  their  own  manufacture,  of  which  circumstance,  as  may  well 
be  supposed,  they  were  not  a  little  vain. 

"  The  gentlemen  of  those  days,  were  well  content  to  figure  in 
their  linsey-woolsey  coats — domestic  made,  and  bedecked  with 
an  abundance  of  large  brass  buttons.  Half  a  score  of  breeches, 
heightened  the  proportions  of  his  figure ;  his  shoes  were  orna- 
mented by  enormous  copper  buckles ;  a  low  crowned  broad 
brimmed  hat  overshadowed  his  florid  visage,  and  his  hair  dangled 
down  his  back  in  a  long  queue  of  eel  skin. 

"  Ah,  never  to  be  forgotten  age, 
Where  every  thing  was  better  than  it  has  been  e'er  since !" 

We  may  close  this  article  with  some  little  notices  and  recollec- 
tions of  Dutch  manners,  as  they  appeared  in  their  last  remains 
when  receding  from  the  innovations  of  later  times,  to  wit  : 

Capt.  Graydon,  who  was  a  prisoner  on  Long  Island  in  the  war 
of  independence,  and  was  quartered  at  Flat  Bush,  speaks  of  his 
neighbours  as  a  quiet  inoffensive  people ;  as  too  unaspiring  and 
contented  to  have  ever  made  a  revolution  from  their  own  impulse. 
Their  religion,  like  their  other  habits,  were  all  plain  and  unosten- 
tatious :  A  silent  grace  before  meat  was  their  general  family 
habit.  The  principal  personage  in  every  Dutch  village  was  the 
"  domine''^  or  minister ;  and  their  manner  of  preaching  was 
extremely  colloquial  and  familiar.  Their  most  frequent  diet  was 
clams,  called  clippers ;  and  their  unvaried  supper  was  supon 
(mush) ;  sometimes  with  milk,  but  more  generally  buttermilk, 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  171 

blended  with  molasses.  Their  blacks,  when  they  had  them, 
were  very  free  and  familiar  ;  sometimes  sauntering  about  among 
the  whites  at  meal  time,  with  hat  on  head,  and  freely  joining 
occasionally  in  conversation,  as  if  they  were  one  and  all  of  the 
same  household. 

The  hospitality  and  simple  plainness  of  New  York  city,  down 
to  the  period  of  1790  and  1800,  was  very  peculiar.  All  felt  and 
praised  it.  Nothing  was  too  good,  and  no  attention  too  engross- 
ing for  a  stranger.  It  was  a  passport  to  every  thing  kind  and 
generous.  All  who  were  introduced,  invited  him  to  their  home 
and  board.  As  wealth  and  pride  and  numbers  came  in,  it  wo-re 
off  more  and  more  ;  till  now  it  follows  selfishness  and  reserve 
like  other  great  cities. 


LOCAL  CHANGES  AND  LOCAL  FACTS. 

«« To  observe  and  preserve." 

A  GENTLEMAN  of  eighty  years  of  age,  in  182S,  told  me  of  his 
digging  out  the  trunk  of  a  walnut  tree,  at  nine  feet  depth,  at  his 
house  at  the  Coenties  slip,  near  Pearl  street. 

He  well  remembered,  in  early  life  to  have  seen  a  natural  spring 
of  fine  fresh  water  at  the  fort,  at  a  position  a  little  north-west  of 
Hone's  house.  There  was  also  a  fresh  water  well  once  at  N. 
Prime's  house  near  the  Battery. 

He  saw  the  old  fort  cut  down  about  the  year  1788-9,  when 
they  found  beneath  the  vault  the  ancient  Dutch  church,  once 
there,  the  leaden  coffins  of  Lord  Bellermont  and  lady.  Vansant 
and  Jane  way  were  charged  to  remove  them  to  St.  Paul's  church. 

He  saw  a  linseed  oil  factory  worked  with  wind  sails,  on  a 
high  hill  of  woods,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  north-east  of  the 
Kolch.     This  was  about  the  year  1790. 

About  the  same  time  he  saw  a  beautiful  meadow  and  flourish- 
ing grass  cut  on  the  declining  hill  back  of  the  City  Hall  towards 
the  Kolch. 

The  "  tea  water  fountain  "  out  by  Stuyvesant's  field,  is  now 
very  good,  and  was  in  great  repute  formerly.  The  region  of 
country  near  the  prison,  on  the  East  river,  has  now  excellent 
water.  There  "  Knapp"  gets  his  "  spring  water"  for  the  city 
supply. 

A  lady  of  about  eighty-six  years  of  age  in  1828,  said  she  well 
remembered  when  the  locality  of  the  present  St.  Paul's  church 
was  a  wheat  field. 

She  also  spoke  of  her  remembrance  of  a  '*  ferry  house"  in 


172  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts. 

Broad  street,  up  above  "Exchange  Place/^  (then  Garden  alley) 
to  which  place  the  Indians  used  to  come  and  set  down  in  the 
street  near  there,  and  make  and  sell  baskets. 

The  place  called  "  Canvas  Town,"  was  made  after  the  great 
fire  in  1776.  It  lay  towards  the  East  river,  and  from  Broad 
street  to  Whitehall  street.  It  was  so  called  from  the  temporary 
construction  of  the  houses,  and  their  being  generally  covered 
with  canvas  instead  of  roofs.  Very  lewd  and  dissolute  persons 
generally  were  their  tenants,  and  gave  them  their  notoriety  and 
fame. 

While  the  old  fort  existed,  before  the  revolution,  it  contained 
within  its  bounds  the  mansion  of  the  governors  (military  chief- 
tains) and  their  gardens.  There  governors  Dunmore,  Tryon,  &c. 
dwelt.  New  York  was  a  military  station,  and  as  such  it  had 
always  a  regiment  of  foot  and  a  company  of  artillery ;  also  a 
guard  ship  in  the  bay. 

Mr.  Abram  Brower,  aged  seventy -five  in  1828,  informed  me 
that  the  lots  fronting  the  Vly  market  were  originally  sold  out  by 
the  city  corporation,  at  only  one  dollar  the  foot. 

He  said  the  market  in  Broadway  (the  Oswego  I  presume)  was 
once  leased  to  a  Mr.  Crosby  for  only  20*.  for  seven  years. 

He  remembered  when  only  horse  boats  ferried  from  Brooklyn, 
with  only  two  men  to  row  it,  in  which  service  they  sometimes 
drove  towards  Governor's  Island,  and  employed  a  whole  hour. 
Only  one  ferry  was  used  on  the  North  river  side,  and  then  not 
to  go  across  to  Jersey  City  as  now,  but  down  to  the  Blazing  Star. 
Those  who  then  came  from  Bergen,  &c.  used  the  country  boats. 

He  said  the  Dutch  yachts  (then  so  called)  were  from  one  to 
two  weeks  in  a  voyage  to  Hudson  and  Albany.  They  came  to, 
usually  every  night,  "slow  and  sure."  Then  all  on  board  spoke 
the  Dutch  language.  [The  mayor,  Thomas  Willet,  in  1665, 
informs  the  corporation  "  he  intends  for  Albania  with  the  first 
opportunity,  and  prays  his  leave  of  absence."] 

The  last  Dutch  schoolmaster  was  Vanbombeler ;  he  kept  his 

school  till  after  the  revolution.     Mr.  Brower  himself  went  to  a 

Dutch  school,  to  his  grandfather's,  Abram  Delanoye,  (a  French 

-k}  Hugonot,  via  Holland),  who  kept  his  school  in  Courtlandt  street. 

Elective  offices,  when  they  went  by  merit,  and  not  by  partisan 
efforts,  were  of  enduring  character,  to  the  individual  concerned. 
Thus  to  instance  one  case,  in  the  family  of  the  Bogerts  ;  Henry 
Bogert  was  elected  assistant  Alderman  of  the  west  ward,  annu- 
ally for  sixteen  consecutive  years,  from  1734  to  1750  ;  and  John 
Bogert,  Jr.  (grandfather  of  the  present  James  Bogert,  Jr.)  was 
elected  Alderman  for  Montgomery  ward,  annually  for  eleven 
consecutive  years,  from  1755  to  1766,  when  he  retired  from  public 
and  mercantile  life  to  his  country  seat  at  Harlem.  Another 
John  Bogert,  of  the  same  family,  was  elected  assistant  alderman 
for  the  fourth  ward  for  the  years  1797-98,  when  he  became  an 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  173 

alderman,  and  was  re-elected  annually,  for  four  successive  years, 
and  then  declined  any  further  election.  Edward  Holland  was 
mayor  from  1747  to  1756,  and  John  Crugan  was  mayor  from 
1757  to  1765.     Simon  Johnson  was  recorder,  from  1747  to  1768. 

The  first  Methodist  preaching  in  New  York  was  at  a  house  hi 
William  street,  then  a  rigging  loft.  There  Embury  first  preached; 
and  being  a  carpenter,  he  made  his  own  pulpit, — a  true  puritan 
characteristic. 

Mr.  Brower,  when  a  boy,  never  heard  of  "  Greenwich,"  the 
name  was  not  even  known  ;  but  the  Dutch,  when  they  spoke  of 
the  place,  called  it  Shawbackanicka,  an  Indian  name  as  he  sup- 
posed.    "  Greenwich  street"  was  of  course  unknown. 

He  knew  of  no  daily  papers  until  after  the  revolution.  Wey- 
man  and  Gaine  had  each  a  weekly  one  corresponding  to  their 
limited  wants  and  knowledge.  The  first  daily  paper  was  by 
F.  Child  &  Co.,  called  the  New  York  Daily  Advertiser,  began 
in  1785. 

He  saw  Andrews  hanging  in  gibbets  for  piracy  ;  he  was  hung 
long  in  irons,  just  above  the  Washington  market,  and  was  then 
taken  to  Gibbet  Island  and  suspended  there; — year  1769. 

I  notice  such  changes  as  the  following : — 

Maiden  lane,  called  Medge  Padje,  is  greatly  altered  for  the 
better;  formerly  that  street  was  much  lower  near  its  junction 
with  Pearl  street ;  it  was  much  narrower,  and  had  no  separate 
foot  pavement;  its  gutter  ran  down  the  middle  of  the  street. 
Where  the  lofty  triangular  store  of  Watson  is  seen  up  said  street, 
was  once  a  low  sooty  blacksmith  shop,  Olstein's  (a  rarity  now  in 
the  sight  of  passing  citizens,)  and  near  it  a  cluster  of  low  wooden 
buildings. 

In  Pearl  street,  below  Maiden  lane,  I  have  seen  proof  positive 
of  the  primitive  river  margin  there ;  several  of  the  cellars,  and 
shallow  ones  too,  had  water  in  them  from  that  original  cause. 

I  perceive  that  Duane  street,  from  Broadway,  is  greatly  filled 
up ;  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  stories  there  is  made  ground ; 
the  south  corner  of  Duane  street,  at  Broadway,  is  sixteen  feet 
filled  up,  and  the  same  I  am  told  in  Broadway.  South  of  this 
was  originally  a  hill  descending  northward. 

Where  Leonard  street  traverses  the  Broadway  and  descends  a 
hill  to  the  Collect,  was  well  remembered  an  orchard  but  a  few 
years  ago.  Some  of  the  Collect  was  still  open  fourteen  or  fifteen 
years  ago  (it  is  said),  and  was  skated  upon. 

The  original  Collect  main  spring  still  exists  on  Leonard  street, 
having  a  house  now  over  it,  lettered  "  supply  engine." 

The  Kolch  waters  still  ooze  through  the  new  made  filled  in 
ground,  into  the  cellars,  especially  in  wet  seasons. 

When  they  dug  out  some  of  the  Kolch  ground,  some  used  the 
earth  as  turf,  thinking  it  had  that  quality. 

The  Collect  street  runs  through  the  leading  line  or  centre  of 

p2 


I.i 


174  Local  Changes  and  local  Fads. 

the  old  Kolch  channel,  and  has  under  its  pavement  a  sewer  to 
lead  off  the  water.  This  street  is  the  thoroughfare  of  so  much 
water,  as  to  make  it  necessary  to  incline  this  street  deeply  to  the 
middle  as  a  deep  gutter  way.  Indeed,  so  much  water, "  deep  and 
broad,"  floAvs  along  it  like  a  sullied  brook,  that  it  might  be  well 
called  Brook  street ;  helped,  as  the  idea  is,  by  the  numerous  foot 
planks,  as  miniature  bridges,  laid  across  it  at  intervals  for  the  con- 
venience of  foot  passengers. 

About  the  year  1 784-5,  property  near  New  York  went  down 
greatly  ;  few  or  none  had  money  to  buy  with.  About  the  year 
1785-6,  alderman  Wm.  Bayard  wished  to  raise  cash  by  selling  his 
farm,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  on  the  western  side  of  Broad- 
way and  near  the  city.  He  devised  the  scheme  of  offering  them 
in  lots  of  twenty-five  by  one  hundred  feet ;  only  twenty -five  dol- 
lars was  bid,  and  but  few  of  them  were  sold.  It  was  well  for 
him,  for  very  soon  after,  feelings  and  opinions  changed ;  and  they 
who  had  bought  for  twenty-five  dollars,  sold  out  for  one  hundred 
dollars  ;  and  then,  the  impulse  being  given,  the  progressive  rise 
has  had  no  end. 

A  kinsman,  G.  T.,  told  me,  in  1828,  that  the  out  lots  of  the  city 
"  went  up"  about  twenty-one  years  before,  when  from  the  cir- 
cumstances of  trade,  &c.  they  began  to  fall  much,  and  soon  after 
to  rise  again  more  than  ever.  He  bought  lots  four  years  before  at 
the  rate  of  ^850,  which  would  now  bring  him  iB  1,800.  Twenty- 
one  years  ago  he  bought  lots  for  ^2,000  reluctantly,  which  he  in 
six  months  after  sold  for  ^4,000.  That  purchaser  kept  it  till  four 
years  ago  at  its  minimum  price,  and  sold  it  for  ^2,000  !  Some  of 
his  property,  which  five  years  ago  he  would  have  freely  sold  for 
^2,000,  would  now  be  valued  at  ^12,000.  The  lot  at  the  corner 
of  Broadway  and  Maiden  lane  was  sold  for  ^27,600,  equal  to 
^22  per  square  foot.  This  is,  however,  a  rare  circumstance,  hav- 
ing had  the  accident  of  attaining  to  much  front  along  the  newly 
extended  Broadway. 

The  Stuyvesants,  Rutgers,  Delancys,  and  others  have  attained 
to  great  riches  by  the  rapid  and  unexpected  growth  of  New  York, 
voraciously  calling  on  such  "  out  town"  landlords  for  their  farms 
at  any  price  !  Old  Mr.  Janeway,  who  died  lately,  at  fourscore, 
saw  his  few  acres  near  the  Chatham  street  and  Collect,  grow  in 
his  long  life  and  possession  from  almost  nothing  to  a  great  estate. 
"  While  they  slumbered  and  slept,"  their  fortunes  advanced  with- 
out their  effort  or  skill.  Much  the  fact  impresses  the  recollection 
of  "Ecclesiasticus;"  he  saith, "There  is  one  that  laboureth  and 
taketh  pains  and  maketh  haste,  and  is  so  much  the  more  behind, 
(as  many  poor  bankrupts  know,)  and  there  is  another  that  is  slow 
and  hath  need  of  help,  wanting  ability,  yet  he  is  set  up  from  his 
low  estate!" 

The  head  of  Chatham  street,  where  it  joins  the  Bowery  road, 
although  now  a  hill,  has  been  cut  down  in  modem  times  twelve 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  175 

feet.  From  this  point,  following  the  line  of  Division  street,  and 
thence  down  to  the  river,  on  the  line  of  Catherine  street,  was  for- 
merly Col.  Rutger's  farm ;  it  was  opened  as  city  lots,  about  thirty- 
five  to  thirty-eight  years  ago. 

I  found  the  once  celebrated  "  tea  water  pump,"  long  covered 
up  and  disused,  again  in  use,  but  unknown,  in  the  liquor  store  of 
a  Mr.  Fagan,  126  Chatham  street ;  I  drank  of  it  to  revive  recol-r 
lections. 

I  have  been  surprised  to  find,  in  so  magnificent  a  city,  such  a 
mean  collection  of  hovels,  of  feeble  wooden  fabric,  as  I  see  in  the 
rear  of  the  great  City  Hall  and  the  stately  houses  along  Chambers 
street ;  they  lay  on  the  line  of  Cross  street,  descending  a  present 
hill,  formerly  much  higher  and  more  rugged,  having  only  foot- 
paths for  clambering  boys.  The  mean  houses  at  the  foot  of  the  hill 
or  street,  are  now  half  buried  in  earth  by  the  raising  of  the  street 
ten  feet ;  up  to  this  neighbourhood,  came  once  the  little  Collect ; 
it  forms  the  site  generally  of  what  was  formerly  Jane  way's  little 
farm. 

The  Magazine  street,  here,  (because  of  the  powder  house  once 
close  by)  now  named  Pearl  street,  in  continuation,  as  it  runs  to- 
wards the  Hospital  on  Broadway,  shows,  I  think,  strong  marks 
of  having  been  at  the  period  of  the  revolution,  the  utmost  verge 
of  city  hopes.  The  range  of  Beekman  and  Vesey  streets,  had 
once  bounded  their  expectations  ;  and  lastly,  they  extended  to  the 
natural  lines  of  Pearl  street  as  it  crosses  the  city,  and  was  there 
formed  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  on  its  southern  side.  Before  the 
Magazine  street  was  formed,  it  was  so  essentially  the  imaginary 
line  which  bounded  the  Police  of  Justice,  &c.,  that  it  was  usual 
to  designate  the  limits  by  the  vague  name  of  "  fresh  water"  side 
of  the  city.  Thus  referring  to  the  great  Kolch  and  its  course  of 
marshes,  as  separating  all  beyond  in  a  terra  incognita. 

The  houses  No.  13  and  15  on  Elm  street,  near  the  corner  of 
Duane  street,  are  singular  evidences  of  modern  innovation.  They 
were  originally  good  two  story  houses,  and  are  now  filled  up  in 
Elm  street,  nearly  to  their  roofs. 

In  the  rear  of  No.  48  Frankford  street,  is  now  a  very  ancient 
tan  yard.  This  street  down  to  Ferry  street,  and  from  William 
street  over  to  Jacob's  street,  is  the  region  of  what  was  formerly 
tan  yards,  and  originally  Beekman's  swamp.  An  old  man  near 
there,  said  he  remembered  to  have  shot  ducks  there  formerly. 
The  father  of  another  had  told  him  he  often  gathered  huckle- 
berries ;  and  fifty  to  sixty  years  ago  it  was  common  to  exercise 
there  in  skating. 

Mr.  Lydigg  told  me  that  when  the  tanneries  about  here  accu- 
mulated great  hills  of  tan,  it  was  the  material  for  the  fortifications 
of  the  boys,  (preparing  for  the  revolution  by  sham  fights).  Here 
great  tan  redoubts,  piked  with  cow  horns,  were  defended  bravely 
by  the  Pearl  street  and  Fly  boys  against  the  invading  urchins 


176  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts, 


from  Broadway.  Sometimes  the  open  field  was  resorted  to  on 
the  present  Park,  where  missiles  of  thwacking  force  were  dealt 
with  vigorous  arm. 

*  Mr.  Jacob  Tabele,  aged  eighty-seven  in  1828,  said  that  in  his 
early  days  he  heard  much  speaking  of  Dutch  among  the  people 
and  along  the  streets.  He  saw  no  lamps  in  the  streets  when  a 
boy. 

The  powder  house  he  remembered.  A  powder  house,  called 
the  Magazine,  on  a  rising  ground  (a  kind  of  island)  at  the  Collect. 

In  Nicholas  Bayard's  woods  he  often  shot  numerous  pigeons. 

He  remembered  they  used  to  burn  lime  from  oyster-shells  on 
the  Park  commons.  This  agrees  with  what  Mr.  Brower  said, 
who  imputed  the  name  of  Collect  to  the  low  Dutch  for  burnt 
lime  :  but  it  is  more  probable  Kolch  was  the  true  name,  from  its 
meaning  "  fresh  water"  there. 

He  remembered  ship  yards  between  Beekman's  and  Burling's 
Slips. 

There  were  once  some  small  houses  of  wood,  where  is  now 
St.  Paul's  Church. 

He  has  seen  river  water  flow  through  the  sewer  up  the  Maiden 
lane  as  high  as  Olstein's  blacksmith  shop  on  the  triangular 
square. 

There  was  a  very  high  hill,  once  called  "  Bayard's  Mount," 
on  which  the  Americans  built  a  fort,  and  called  it  Bunker  Hill, . 
in  the  time  of  the  revolution,  now  cut  down.     It  stood  on  present 
Grand  street,  a  little  east  of  Centre  market. 

He  remembered  the  "  ferry  house"  so  called,  high  up  Broad 
street ;  had  heard  that  the  creek  once  run  up  there.  The  sign 
was  a  boat  with  iron  oars.  It  was  an  inn  with  such  a  sign  in 
his  time. 

He  remembered  seeing  the  block  houses  in  a  line  of  pahsades, 
quite  across  the  island ;  they  went  in  a  line  from  the  back  of 
Chambers  street.  They  were  of  logs  of  about  one  story  high. 
They  being  empty,  were  often  used  by  Indians  who  made  and 
sold  baskets,  &c.  there.     So  said  Ebbets  also. 

He  remembered  when  boats  could  freely  pass  along  the  space 
now  occupied  by  large  trees  on  the  Battery  ground. 

He  well  remembered  the  ancient  City  Hall  (Stadt  Huys)  at  the 
head  of  Coenties  slip ;  said  he  often  heard  it  had  been  used  as  a 
fort  in  Leisler's  civil  war,  against  the  real  fort  at  the  Battery.  He 
had  often  seen  a  ball  then  shot  at  it,  and  which  was  left  in  the 
side  wall  of  the  house,  (pulled  down  by  Tunis  Quick  in  1827,) 
on  the  south-west  corner  of  Pearl  street  and  Coenties  slip.  The 
ball  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Dr.  Mitchell,  as  a  relic. 

There  were  market  houses  at  everyone  of  the  slips  in  his  time; 
the  one  at  the  foot  of  Wall  street,  nigh  the  Tontine,  was  called 
the  Meal  market. 

Said  he  often  heard  of  Lindley  Murray  (the  grammarian)  having 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  177 

leaped  across  Biirling's  slip,  (about  twenty-one  feet,)  with  a  pair 
of  fowls  in  his  hand  as  he  came  from  market.  He  believed  it, 
and  others  spoke  of  it  to  me  as  true,  and  that  his  lameness  after- 
wards was  imputed  to  his  efforts. 

Mr.  Table  said  there  were  but  few  streets  paved.  Broadway 
and  other  streets  had  all  their  gutter  ways  in  the  middle. 

He  remembered  the  Oswego  market  in  Broadway,  opposite  to 
Liberty  street.  When  demolished,  another  was  placed  at  the 
west  end  of  Maiden  lane. 

The  Bear  market  was  the  only  one  on  the  North  river  side. 
It  took  its  name  from  the  fact  of  the  first  meat  ever  sold  in  it 
having  been  bear  meat,  killed  as  the  bear  was  swimming  from 
the  neighbourhood  of  Bergen  shore. 

William  street,  from  John  street  northwards,  used  to  be  called 
Horse  and  Cart  street,  from  an  inn  near  there  having  such  a 
sign. 

Mr.  Grant  Thorburn,  the  seedman,  told  me  that  when  they 
were  digging  in  Broadway  to  lay  the  Manhattan  pipes,  they 
came  to  the  posts  of  the  city  gate  once  at  Wall  street.  The  deed 
for  his  premises,  once  the  Friends  meeting-house,  speaks  of  its 
being  located  "  outside  of  the  wall  of  the  city,"  thus  referring  to 
the  wall  once  along  "  Wall  street."  He  also  showed  me  a  rarity 
in  the  first  directory  ever  made  for  New  York,  say  in  the  year 
1786.  The  very  names  of  that  day  are  curious;  so  few  then 
who  were  foreigners.  Such  was  the  novelty  or  uselessness  of  a 
directory  then,  when  every  man  knew  his  neighbour,  that  no 
other  was  attempted  till  the  year  1793 ;  that  one  Mr.  Thorburn 
also  possesses. 

Mr.  Thorburn's  seed  house  is  a  curiosity  itself — a  rare  concep- 
tion on  his  part;  and  presenting  to  the  eye  of  a  walking  passenger 
along  the  streets,  a  little  rus  in  urbe. 

This  Mr.  Grant  Thorburn,  may  be  regarded  as  somewhat  of  a 
curiosity,  and  a  character  in  himself — especially  in  his  relation  to 
the  olden  time,  and  his  cordial  attachment  to  the  past.  Besides 
being  in  his  own  person,  the  proper  "  Lawrie  Todd"  of  western 
New  York,  he  is  often  a  pleasant  noticer  of  the  passing  changes 
of  men  and  things  in  and  about  New  York  city.  We  quote  from 
some  of  his  reminiscences : — He  came  to  this  country  from  Scot- 
land, in  1794,  and  engaged  in  New  York  at  nail  making,  as  then 
wrought  by  the  hand,  and  since  wholly  superseded  by  cutting 
machines,  turning  him  for  the  time,  out  of  his  employment  and 
bread !  He  says  he  saw  at  his  arrival  all  things  in  the  Dutch 
character,  such  as  Dutch  houses,  goods,  and  manners,  also  Dutch 
words,  Dutch  men,  and  Dutch  lasses.  The  great  majority  of 
vessels  then  were  advertised  as  bound  for  Amsterdam  and  Rotter- 
dam, and  but  few  then  for  Liverpool  and  London.  Then  the 
Bear  market  (since  the  Washington)  was  supplied  principally 
from  Haverstraw,  Hackensack,  Bergen,  and  Communipaw,  and 
23 


^178  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts. 


\ 


unless  you  could  talk  a  good  portion  of  Dutch,  it  was  of  little  use 
to  go  there  to  traffic.  Then  Paus  and  Pinkster  were  of  univer- 
sal observance.  Then  for  the  time  being,  all  made  it  an  idle  day 
— boys  and  negroes  might  be  seen  all  day  standing  in  the  market 
place,  laughing,  joking,  and  cracking  eggs.  In  the  afternoon,  the 
grown  up  apprentices  and  servant  girls,  used  to  dance  on  the 
green  in  Bayard's  farm  in  the  Bowery.  One  of  his  contemporaries 
told  him  how  the  apprentices  of  his  day,  were  all  wont  to  save 
their  earnings,  on  purpose  to  have  their  full  of  frolic  at  Paus. 
He  had  himself,  only  some  five  years  before,  saved  up  his  fifteen 
dollars  for  such  an  occasion,  but  when  the  time  came,  he  heard 
that  lots  were  selUng  out  of  town,  where  Leonard  street  since 
runs,  for  only  fifteen  dollars  ;  he  resolved  to  forego  his  intended 
frolic,  and  by  his  forbearance  for  one  season  of  joy  and  fun,  to 
buy  a  lot.  But  before  he  reached  the  place  of  purchase,  he  was 
overruled  by  another,  to  join  him  in  his  paus-day,  and  so  lost 
in  his  fifteen  dollars  of  money  spent,  which  if  invested,  would 
have  brought  him  three  thousand  dollars  now.  Think  of  the 
change,  and  such  changes  have  been  profited  in  by  many.  At 
that  time  there  was  only  one  Doctor  in  New  York  who  "  kept  a 
gig" — he  par  excellence  was  Dr.  Charlton.  The  first  man  to 
make  coach  springs  in  New  York  was  one  WilUams  from  Eng- 
land, who  came  to  work  in  the  same  shop  with  Mr.  Thorburn — 
he  made  money  and  did  well  for  himself  until  he  joined  Tom 
Paine's  society  and  infidelity,  and  then  he  became  an  outcast, 
and  an  alms-house  pauper.  Mr.  Thorburn,  in  surveying  the 
present  and  considering  the  past,  makes  his  conclusion,  that  the 
solid  comforts  of  social  life  in  New  York,  have  diminished  pro- 
portion ably  to  the  advancements  in  refinements  and  luxuries — 
others  think  so  too. 

An  ancient  house  at  the  corner  of  Beaver  lane  and  Broadway, 
of  original  two  stories  high,  has  its  cellar  wall  exposed  out  of 
ground,  thus  showing  the  cutting  down  of  Broadway  six  to  eight 
feet  at  least.  If  we  keep  the  idea  of  that  elevation,  we  may  form 
some  idea  of  the  primitive  elevation  of  the  ground  whereon  the 
fort  stood ;  aged  men  have  told  me  they  thought  the  highest  ele- 
vation of  the  parapet  walls  was  about  equal  to  the  walls  of  pre- 
sent houses  near  there. 

Mr.  Daniel  J.  Ebbets,  aged  seventy-six  in  1828,  who  has  been 
a  very  observant  youth  and  is  now  an  intelligent  gentleman  of 
lively  mind,  has  helped  me  to  many  facts. 

He  says,  the  present  Bowling  Green  was  once  an  oblong  square, 
and  was  well  surrounded  with  large  locust  trees. 

As  late  as  the  year  1787,  he  had  assisted  to  draw  a  seine  on 
the  beach,  where  runs  the  present  Greenwich  street,  say  from 
Beaver  lane  to  Battery :  there  they  caught  many  fish  and  much 
of  herring :  the  beach  was  beautiful ;  there  boys  and  horses  were 
wont  to  bathe  and  sport  in  the  wave.     A  street  to  be  there  never 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  179 

entered  the  head  of  the  sportive  youth.  A  large  rock  (see  it  on 
Lyne's  map)  stood  out  in  the  middle  of  present  Greenwich  street, 
then  in  the  water,  on  which  was  a  kind  of  rude  summer  house, 
much  to  the  mind  and  fancy  of  the  boys ;  affording  them  a  resort 
of  much  frolic  and  youthful  glee. 

Then  Mr.  Ebbets  saw  no  commerce,  or  vessels  along  the  North 
river  side.  The  Albany  sloops  all  went  round  to  East  river, 
and  all  their  sailors  talked  Dutch,  and  all  understood  it  enough 
for  their  business. 

He  was  familiar  with  the  plot  of  the  old  fort,  and  described  it 
thus ; — first  the  green  bank,  which  was  sloping,  was  about  four- 
teen feet  high,  on  which  was  erected  a  wall  of  about  twenty  feet 
additional  height.  An  old  linden  and  two  apple  trees  on  the  city 
side,  were  as  high  as  the  walls.  Some  barracks  lay  along  the 
line  of  State  street. 

The  Broadway,  in  1772,  extended  only  as  high  as  the  Hospital. 
Where  the  Hospital  is,  was  "  Rutger's  orchard." 

There  was  a  rope  walk  (Vanpelt's)  a  little  north  of  Courtland 
street,  running  from  Broadway  to  the  North  river.  All  the  old 
deeds  on  north  side  of  Courtland  street,  speak  of  fifteen  feet  of  the 
said  walk  as  in  their  lots.  Another  ran  parallel  to  it  from  oppo- 
site the  present  Bridewell  prison  ;  and  in  its  place,  or  near  it,  was 
formerly  a  range  of  British  barracks ;  [as  I  think  since,  in  the 
line  of  the  present  Scudder's  Museum.] 

The  "brick  meeting,"  built  in  1764,  on  Beekman  street,  near 
Chatham  street,  was  then  said  to  be  in  popular  parlance,  in  "  the 
fields."     There  Whitefield  was  heard  to  preach. 

Back  of  the  above-mentioned  barracks,  and  also  behind  the 
present  jail,  was  a  high  hill,  and  on  its  descent  a  negro  burying 
ground  ;  and  thence  further  down,  it  was  a  fine  meadow. 

The  British  army  gave  the  name  of  "  the  Mall"  to  their  parade 
ground  fronting  the  Trinity  church. 

There  were  very  fine  sun  fish  and  roach  fish  caught  in  the 
Collect  pond. 

The  City  Hall  at  the  head  of  Broad  street,  (afterwards  the 
Congress  Hall)  besides  holding  the  courts,  was  also  a  prison.  In 
front  of  it,  on  the  head  of  Broad  street,  he  remembered  seeing 
there  a  whipping  post,  and  pillory,  and  stocks.  He  has  seen 
them  lead  the  culprits  round  the  town,  whipping  them  at  the  cart 
tail.  They  also  introduced  the  wooden  horse  as  a  punishment. 
The  horse  was  put  into  the  cart-body,  and  the  criminal  set  thereon. 
Mary  Price  having  been  the  first  who  had  the  infamous  distinc- 
tion, caused  the  horse  ever  after  to  be  called,  "  the  horse  of  Mary 
Price." 

So  recently  has  a  part  of  Water  street  been  filled  up,  that  he 
could  now  lead  to  the  spot  there,  where  could  be  found  the  body 
of  a  vessel  deep  under  present  ground. 

He  verified  the  fact  in  Moulton's  book,  of  a  canal  (or  channel) 


180  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts. 

of  water  running  out  of  the  present  Beaver  street,  into  the  Broad 
street  canal,  in  primitive  times.  He  said  that  half  way  between 
Broad  street  and  New  street,  in  Beaver  street,  there  had  been 
dug  up  two  bars  of  lead,  evidently  dropped  overboard  from  some 
boat.  At  same  place  was  a  cedar  post,  upright,  having  on  it  the 
lines  of  the  ropes  of  boats  once  tied  to  it. 

The  Mineral  Spring,  No.  8  Jacob's  street,  quaintly  enough 
called  "Jacob's  Well,"  is  a  real  curiosity,  whether  regarded  either 
as  an  illusion  or  as  a  reality.  The  enterprise  was  bold  to  bore 
there  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  and  the  result  is  said  to  be  that 
they  found  a  spring  having  the  properties  of  the  Saratoga  and 
Congress  waters.  Some  distrust  it,  but  the  proprietors  say,  twenty- 
five  thousand  persons  used  it  in  a  year.  It  is  a  part  of  Beekman's 
swamp. 

The  house  in  Peck's  slip,  north  side,  a  yellow  frame.  No.  7, 
was  pointed  out  to  me  by  an  aged  person,  as  being  in  his  youth 
the  nearest  house  to  the  river,  which  was  then  so  near,  he  could 
jump  into  the  river  then  ranging  along  Water  street,  near  to  it. 
He  said  also  that  "  Walton  house,"  close  by  on  Pearl  street.  No. 
324,  had  its  garden  in  its  rear  quite  down  to  the  river.  He  said 
the  hill  called  Peck's  Hill,  from  Walton  house  to  the  Franklin 
Bank,  (at  the  union  of  Cherry  and  Pearl  streets)  was  originally 
a  much  higher  hill. 

I  went  out  to  the  Dry  Dock  and  Steam  Mill,  for  sawing,  &c., 
on  the  river  margin  of  "  Stuyvesant's  Swamp,"  or  flats.  It  is  a 
very  wide  extended  wet  flat,  over  which  tides  used  to  overflow, 
now  sluiced  out.  Some  low  grass  meadows  appear ;  but  gene- 
rally it  is  a  waste,  coming  now  into  incalculable  value  to  that 
family  as  building  lots.  The  adjacent  hills  furnish  abundance  of 
coarse  sand  and  gravel  material  for  filling  up,  which  is  now  busily 
pursued  in  the  lines  of  the  intended  streets.  Some  of  the  ancient 
oaks  are  scattered  around,  and  many  stumps  showing  the  recent 
woods  about  here,  wherever  not  submerged  in  water.  At  the 
point  or  hook,  a  little  beyond  the  Dry  Dock,  I  saw  a  small 
moimt,  on  which,  in  the  revolution,  was  a  small  redoubt,  near 
which  lay  the  King  Fisher  sloop  of  war. 

I  observed  great  digging  down  of  hills  and  removals  of  earth 
going  on,  all  about  the  Stuyvesant  mansion  house  and  farm. 

Mr.  Nicholas  S told  me  they  often  came  to  Indian  graves, 

known  as  such  by  having  oyster-shells  interred  with  the  bones, 
and  sometimes  some  fragments  of  frail  pottery. 

Just  beyond  "  Peter's  Field"  and  mansion,  extending  up  to 
the  Fever  Hospital  at  Bellevue,  is  a  great  bend  or  bay,  which  is 
now  all  filling  up  with  innumerable  loads  of  earth  from  the 
adjacent  high  grounds;  the  whole  having  a  long  wharf  in  front, 
calculated  to  extend  down  to  the  Dry  Dock,  all  of  which  is  to  be 
laid  out  in  streets  and  city  lots.  It  is  an  immense  and  spirited 
undertaking,  affording  constant  business  for  the  labouring  poor. 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  181 

Canal  street  is  a  grand  undertaking,  effecting  a  great  benefit,  by- 
draining  through  a  great  sewer  the  waters  which  once  passed  by 
the  former  canal  to  the  Collect.  The  street  is  broad  and  the 
houses  genteel ;  but  as  this  region  of  ground  was  once  swampy, 
it  is  liable  now  to  have  wet  or  damp  cellars  throughout  the  range 
of  Lispenard's  swamp  to  the  northward,  and  from  Lafayette 
theatre,  (which  is  laid  on  piles)  down  to  the  North  river.  Chapel 
street,  which  runs  southward  from  Canal  street,  follows  the  line 
of  a  former  water-course  (connecting  with  the  canal  formerly  and 
now  by  a  sewer)  quite  down  to  Leonard  street,  and  has  been  all 
made  ground,  filled  in  over  the  sewer. 

From  the  inlets  to  those  sewers  is  emitted  a  strong  offensive 
smell  of  filth  and  salt  water,  only  however  perceptible  at  the 
apertures,  and  never  known  to  have  any  deleterious  effect  on 
health. 

Mr.  Wilke,  president  of  the  bank,  told  me  he  once  stood  sen- 
tinel as  a  volunteer  on  the  sand  beach,  close  to  the  present  old 
sugar-house  still  standing  nearly  in  the  rear  of  the  present  City 
Hotel,  on  Broadway.  Thus  proving,  what  I  had  before  heard 
from  Mr.  Swords  and  others,  that  at  the  rear  of  Trinity  church- 
yard, a  little  beyond  where  Lumber  street  is  now,  the  boys  used 
to  swim. 

Mr.  Wilke  also  told  me  he  knew  the  parties  who  in  1780  fought 
a  duel  in  the  rear  of  the  hospital  ground. 

In  visiting  Thomas  Rammey,  a  good  chronicle,  I  learned  from 
himself  and  wife  several  facts,  to  wit : — 

Rammey  had  Hved  in  Cross  street ;  while  there,  he  dug  up 
remains  of  the  old  Magazine,  and  he  could  see  evidence  that 
water  sometimes  had  enclosed  it,  [as  Lyne's  ancient  map  had 
shown.]  His  mother-in-law,  if  alive,  would  be  one  hundred  and 
six  years  of  age  in  1828.  She  often  talked  of  the  block-houses 
and  paUsades  across  the  city,  behind  the  present  City  Hall ;  said 
the  Indians  occupied  many  places  outside  of  their  line,  and  used 
there  to  make  baskets,  ladles,  &c.  for  sale.  Many  of  them  hut- 
ted outside  the  present  Hospital,  towards  the  North  river. 

She  well  remembered  they  were  used  at  times,  in  high  waters, 
to  have  a  ferry  boat  to  cross  the  people  in  Chatham  street,  over 
where  it  crosses  Pearl  street,  where  it  is  still  low  ground.  Lyne's 
map  of  1729  marks  this  same  place  with  a  bridge. 

She  had  recollection  of  the  wife  of  Gov.  Stuyvesant  used  to 
go  out  to  his  farm  near  the  flats,  and  there  see  numerous  fish 
caught. 

She  remembered  and  spoke  much  of  the  Negro  Plot — said 
it  made  terrible  agitation — saw  the  Negroes  hung  back  of  the 
site  of  the  present  jail,  in  the  Park.  A  wind-mill  once  stood  near 
there. 

The  Jews'  burying-ground  was  up  Chatham  street,  on  a  hill, 
where  is  now  the  Tradesman's  Bank. 

Q 


iSd  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts, 

She  said  that  water  once  ran  from  the  Collect  both  ways ;  i.  e. 
to  the  East  river  as  well  as  to  the  North  river.  Sometimes  the 
salt  water  came  up  to  it  from  the  North  river  in  the  winters,  and 
raised  the  ice. 

In  her  time  the  strand  or  beach  on  the  East  river  was  along 
present  Pearl  street  generally  ;  and  at  the  comer  of  Pearl  street 
and  Maiden  lane,  dwelt  her  brother-in-law,  who  used  to  keep 
his  boat  tied  to  his  stoop  to  ferry  him  off  by  water. 

She  said  Maiden  lane  got  its  name  from  the  practice  of  women, 
the  younger  part  generally  going  out  there  to  bleach  their  family 
linen :  all  of  which  was  then  made  at  home.  It  had  a  fine  creek 
or  brook,  and  was  headed  by  a  good  spring.  Sometime  after- 
wards, minor  springs  remained  for  a  time  in  cellars  there,  and 
one  was  in  Cuyler's  house  till  modern  times.  The  hills  adjacent, 
clothed  in  fine  grass,  sloped  gradually  to  the  line  of  Maiden  lane, 
and  there  she  bleached  with  many  others. 

She  said  Broadway  went  no  higher  than  St.  Paul's  church. 

She  said  "Chapel  Hill,"  where  is  now  Dr.  Milnor's  church, 
on  Beekman  street,  was  a  very  high  mount  and  steep,  from 
which  the  boys  with  sleds  used  to  slide  down  on  the  snow,  quite 
to  the  swamp  below.  With  this  agrees  the  fact  told  me  by  Mr. 
James  Bogert,  that  his  father,  in  later  times,  used  to  ride  up  to  it 
as  a  high  apple  orchard. 

Mr.  Rammey  said  that  behind  the  City  Hall  once  stood  an  old 
alms-house,  built  in  1710,  and  taken  down  about  the  year  1793 ; 
perhaps  the  burials  behind  it  gave  rise  to  the  remark  made  to  me 
by  Dr.  Francis,  that  along  the  line  of  Chambers  street  are  many 
graves. 

He  says  he  used  to  be  told  that  the  real  "  ferry  house"  on 
Broad  street,  was  at  the  north-east  corner  of  Garden  street,  now 
Exchange  Place,  and  is  lately  taken  down,  [and  so  several  others 
have  suggested  to  me]  ;  and  that  the  other,  (No.  19)  a  little 
higher  up,  (the  north  end  of  the  Custom-house  store)  was  only  a 
second  inn,  having  a  ferry  boat  sign,  either  in  opposition,  or  to 
perpetuate  the  other.  He  said  the  boats  were  flat  bottomed,  and 
used  to  come  from  Jersey.  To  me  I  confess  it  seems  to  have  been 
a  singular  location  for  a  ferry,  but  as  the  tradition  is  so  general 
and  concurrent,  I  incline  to  think  it  was  so  called  from  its  being 
a  resort  of  country  boats  coming  there  to  find  a  central  place  for 
their  sales.  I  have  heard  the  names  of  certain  present  rich  families, 
whose  ancestors  were  said  to  come  there  with  oysters. 

A  man  actually  born  in  the  old  ferry  house,  at  the  corner,  and 
who  dwelt  there  forty  years,  described  it  as  a  very  low  one  story 
house,  with  very  high  and  steep  pediment  roof;  its  front  on 
Broad  street ;  its  side  along  Garden  alley  had  two  dormer  win- 
dows in  the  roof,  much  above  the  plate ;  shingle  roof  covered 
with  moss ;  one  hundred  years  probably  of  age ;  had  an  iron 
boat,  and  oars  and  anchor  for  a  sign ;  the  "  Governor's  house" 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  183 

adjoined  it  in  the  alley.     An  old  lady  close  by.confirmed  all  this. 
^picture  of  the  whole  scene  is  annexed. 

Mr.  David  Grim,  an  aged  citizen,  to  whom  we  are  indebted 
for  much  valuable  data  given  to  the  Historical  Society,  has  esti- 
mated in  detail  the  houses  of  the  city  in  1744,  as  then  1141  in 
number,  of  which  only  129  houses  were  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Broadway  to  the  North  river  inclusive :  thus  evidencing  fully, 
that  the  tide  of  population  very  greatly  inclined  to  the  East  river. 

Mrs.  Myers,  the  daughter  of  said  D.  Grim,  said  she  had  seen 
the  British  barracks  of  wood,  enclosed  by  a  high  fence.  It  ex- 
tended from  Broadway  to  Chatham  street,along  present  Chambers 
street,  exactly  where  is  now  the  Museum.  It  had  a  gate  at  each 
end ;  the  one  by  Chatham  street  was  called  "  Tryon's  Gate," 
after  the  name  of  the  governor,  from  which  we  have  derived  since 
there,  the  name  of  "  Tryon's  Row." 

About  the  year  1788  the  whole  of  the  ancient  fort,  near  the 
site  of  the  present  Battery,  was  all  taken  down  and  levelled 
under  the  direction  of  Messrs.  J.  Pintard,  Vansant,  and  Jane  way, 
as  city  commissioners.  The  design  was  to  prepare  the  site  to 
erect  thereon  a  house  for  General  Washington  as  President  of 
the  United  States  ;  but  as  the  Congress  removed  to  Philadelphia, 
he  never  occupied  it,  and  it  therefore  became  the  "  governor's 
house"  in  the  person  of  Governor  Clinton. 

In  taking  down  the  ancient  Dutch  chapel  vault,  they  came  to 
the  remains  of  Lord  and  Lady  Bellermont,  in  leaden  coffins, 
known  by  family  escutcheon  and  inscriptions  on  silver  plates. 
These  coffins,  with  the  bones  of  several  others,  were  taken  by  Mr. 
Pintard,  who  told  me,  to  St.  Paul's  church  ground,  where  they 
all  rest  now  in  one  common  grave,  without  any  notice  above 
ground  of  "  storied  urn  or  animated  bust."  The  silver  plates 
were  taken  by  Mr.  Vansant  for  a  museum ;  but  he  dying,  they 
fell  into  hands  which  with  much  bad  taste,  converted  them  into 
spoons  !  A  story  much  like  this  is  told  of  the  use  made  of  the 
coffin  plates  of  Governor  Paulus  Vanderbrecke  and  wife,  placed 
first  in  G.  Baker's  museum,  and  afterwards  in  Tammany  Hall. 
Lord  Bellermont  died  in  1701.  Mr.  Dunlap,  in  his  history  of 
New  York,  vol.  i.  page  244,  gives  some  facts  concerning  this. 

This  brief  notice  of  the  once  renowned  dead,  so  soon  divested 
of  sculptured  fame,  leads  me  to  the  notice  of  some  other  cases 
where  the  sculptor's  hand  could  not  give  even  brief  existence 
to  once  mighty  names ;  I  refer  to  the  king's  equestrian  statue  of 
lead  in  the  centre  of  the  Bowling  Green,  and  to  Pitt's  marble 
statue  in  Wall  street,  centre  of  William  street.  Both  are  gone, 
and  scarcely  may  you  learn  the  history  of  their  abduction.  So 
frail  is  hitman  glory  ! 

The  latter  I  found,  after  much  inquiry  and  search,  in  the 
Arsenal  yard  on  the  site  of  the  Collect.  It  had  before  been  to 
Bridewell  yard.     The  statue  is  of  fine  marble  and  fine  execution, 


l^  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts, 

in  a  Roman  toga,  and  showing  the  roll  of  Magna  Charta  ;  but 
it  is  decapitated,  and  without  hands — in  short,  a  sorry  relic !  Our 
patriot  fathers  of  the  revolution,  when  they  erected  it,  swore  it 
should  be  as  eternal  as  "  enduring  marble ;"  they  idolized  the 
man  as  their  British  champion, 

"  In  freedom's  cause  with  generous  warmth  inspired." 

But  the  fact  was,  while  the  British  army  occupied  New  York, 
their  champion  lost  his  head  on  some  unknown  occasion,  and 
has  never  since  been  heard  of!  The  statue  itself  was  taken 
down  soon  after  the  peace,  both  as  an  inconvenience  in  the  street, 
so  narrow  there  in  the  busy  mart,  and  also  as  a  deformity. 
Alexander  M'Cormick,  Esq.,  who  dwelt  near  the  statue,  told  me 
it  disappeared  the  night  of  St.  Andrew,  when,  as  it  was  whispered, 
some  British  officers,  who  had  been  at  their  revels,  struck  it  off 
in  revelry  rather  than  in  spite.  No  inquisition  was  made  for  it 
at  the  time;  one  hand  had  before  been  struck  off,  it  was  supposed, 
by  boys.  A  story  was  told  among  some  whigs,  that  the  tories 
had  struck  off  the  head  in  retaliation  for  the  alleged  insult  offered 
to  the  king,  by  drawing  his  statue  along  the  street  to  melt  it  into 
bullets  for  the  war.  My  friend  John  Baylie  was  present  in  July, 
'76,  and  saw  the  degrading  spectacle.  He  saw  no  decent  people 
present;  a  great  majority  were  shouting  boys.* 

Before  the  revolution,  and  even  sometime  afterwards,  William 
street  was  the  great  mart  for  dry  goods  sales,  and  chiefly  from 
Maiden  lane  up  to  Pearl  street.  It  was  the  proper  Bond  street 
too  for  the  beaux  and  shopping  belles.  Now  Broadway  has  its 
turn. 

Pearl  street  then  had  no  stores,  but  it  was  the  place  of  good 
dwellings ;  then  Broadway  had  no  stores  or  business,  and  had 
but  a  few  scattered  houses  about  the  region  of  the  new  City  Hall. 

Before  the  revolution,  the  only  road  out  of  town  was  by  the 
Bowery  road,  and  was  once  called  "  the  high  road  to  Boston." 

The  Bowling  Green  was  before  called  "  the  Parade.'' 

Mr.  Thomas  Swords,  aged  sixty-six  in  1828,  told  me  he  re- 
membered to  have  seen  the  remains  of  an  old  redoubt  by  Grace 
and  Lumber  street  (corner),  the  same  which  was  presumed  once 
to  have  terminated  the  northern  line  of  the  city  along  Wall  street. 
It  was  a  hill  there ;  there  American  prisoners  were  buried  in  time 
of  the  revolution ;  and  he  has  seen  coffins  there  in  the  wasting 
banks  of  the  mount ;  at  the  foot  of  it,  was  the  beach  along  the 
North  river. 

The  grandfather  of  Mr.  James  Bogert  told  hiiii  that  oyster 
vessels  used  to  come  up  Broad  street  to  sell  them ;  and  in  later 
times,  water  used  to  enter  cellars  along  that  street  from  the  canal. 

David  Grim,  in  his  very  interesting  topographical  draft  of  the 

•  The  statues  of  Pitt  and  George  III.  were  both  put  up  in  1770. 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts,  185 

s 
city  as  it  was  in  1742-4,  (done  by  him  when  seventy-six  years 
of  age,  in  the  year  1813,)  is  a  highly  useful  relic  and  gift  of  the 
olden  time.  His  generous  attention  to  posterity  in  that  gift  to 
the  Historical  Society  is  beyond  all  praise,  as  a  work  in  itself  sui 
generis,  and  not  to  be  replaced  by  any  other  data.  He  was  a 
chronicle,  who  lived  to  be  eighty-nine,  and  to  wonder  at  the 
advancements  and  changes  around  him !  I  here  mark  some  of 
his  facts : — 

He  marks  the  "  Governor's  Garden"  near  the  fort,  as  ranging 
along  the  line  of  Whitehall  street,  next  the  fort,  and  there  turning 
an  angle  of  the  fort  and  enclosing  westward  to  the  river.  This 
also  agrees  with  the  report  of  others,  who  told  me  of  seeing  deer 
kept  by  the  governor  in  front  of  the  fort  on  the  ground  of  the 
Water  Battery. 

Mr.  Grim  marks  the  line  of  a  narrow  canal  or  channel  in  Broad 
street,  as  open  above  the  present  Pearl  street,  and  there  covered 
by  the  bridge  or  Exchange  House,  or  both. 

He  marks  the  localities  of  public  wells  in  the  middle  of  the 
streets. 

He  marks  Rutgers'  farm  as  lying  north-west  of  the  Collect,  and 
Winthorn's  farm  as  south-east  of  the  same. 

At  the  foot  of  Courtland  street  he  marks  the  then  only  wharf. 
We  know  it  was  built  there  for  the  king's  purposes,  having  there- 
on an  arsenal  reaching  up  to  Dey  street. 

Mr.  David  Grim  told  his  daughter  of  there  having  been  a 
market  once  held  at  the  head  of  Broad  street.  This  agrees  with 
what  G.  N.  Bleeker,  Esq.,  told  me,  as  from  his  grandmother, 
who  spoke  of  a  market  at  Garden  street,  which  was  in  eflfect  the 
same  place. 

Bake  well's  City  Portrait  of  1747,  a  fine  perspective,  marks  the 
great  dock  at  the  foot  of  Broad  street  as  having  a  long  dividing 
wharf  projecting  into  it  from  Broad,  and  set  on  piles,  which  leads 
me  to  the  idea  of  "  the  bridge  "  so  often  named  there.  It  was 
probably  the  landing  place  for  the  unloaded  goods  from  vessels 
in  the  east  and  west  mole  on  both  sides  of  it. 

A  low  market  house  on  arches,  having  a  large  dial  plate  on  its 
roof  in  front,  is  set  at  the  foot  of  Broad  street. 

The  city  corporation  grants  to  Trinity  church,  in  1703,  as  I 
saw  of  record  in  Mr.  Bleeker's  office,  the  grounds  there  "  for  a 
burying  place  for  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  forever ;  and  upon 
any  of  the  inhabitants  of  said  city  paying  therefor  to  the  Rector, 
&c.  3^.  for  each  corpse  above  twelve  years  of  age,  and  1^.  Qd.  for 
any  under  twelve  years  of  age,  and  no  more."  This  last  emphatic 
word  may  seem  peculiar  when  we  reflect  how  very  special  and 
exclusive  those  grounds  have  been  so  long  occupied. 

In  the  minutes  of  council  of  1696, 1  saw  that  a  sewer  of  1100 
feet  length  was  recommended  to  be  made  in  the  Broad  street. 
24  q2 


186  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts. 

I  saw  in  the  city  commissioner's  office,  that  the  population  of 
New  York,  in  1730,  was  only  8638  ;  and  in  1825,  it  was  166,086. 

David  Grim  told  Mr.  Lydigg  that  he  had  seen  the  river  water 
over  Chatham  street  and  Pearl  street,  and  extending  from  the 
East  to  the  North  river ;  along  the  line  of  the  Collect  as  I  presume. 

Mr.  Brower  and  others  have  explained  to  me,  that  all  along 
the  present  Grand  street,  as  it  approaches  to  Corlear's  Hook,  was 
formerly  very  high  hills  covered  with  apple  and  peach  trees. 
Much  too  of  the  present  level  of  Harman  street,  leading  into 
Grand  street,  was  formerly  hills  of  sixty  feet  height.  The  ma- 
terials of  these  hills  so  cut  down  furnish  excellent  gravel  for  new 
streets,  and  especially  the  means  of  extending  their  grounds  out 
into  the  rivers. 

The  first  bank  in  New  York,  called  the  Bank  of  New  York,  be- 
gan the  9th  of  June  1784,  opened  from  10  to  1,  and  from  3  to  5 
each  day-A.  McDougall,  President,  Wm.  Seton,  Cashier,  discounts 
not  longer  than  30  days,  and  once  a  week ;  gold  taken  by  weight 

Hudson's  Square  is  a  beautiful  embeUishment  of  New  York, 
redeemed  from  a  former  waste,  once  a  sand  beach.  The  large 
growth  of  the  trees  and  the  abundance  of  grateful  shade,  make 
it,  in  connexion  with  the  superiority  of  the  uniform  houses  which 
surround  it,  a  place  of  imposing  grandeur.  The  continuous  long 
lines  of  iron  palisades,  both  round  the  square  and  before  the  areas 
of  every  house,  and  up  the  several  door  steps,  give  a  peculiar 
aspect  of  European  style  and  magnificence. 

The  residences  of  Col.  Rutgers  and  Col.  Willett,  though  origi- 
nally located  far  out  of  town,  on  the  East  river  side,  have  been 
surrounded  by  the  encroaching  population ;  but  as  the  encroach- 
ments have  not  been  permitted  to  close  very  close  upon  them, 
they  are  still  enabled  to  retain  some  grounds  around  them  of  rural 
appearance.  Col.  Willett's  house  was  formerly  on  a  knoll  situated 
on  the  margin  of  Stuyvesant  swamp.  Soon  all  such  recollections 
will  be  obliterated  by  the  entire  diiferent  face  of  things  now  begin- 
ning to  appear  there. 

David  Grim  said  he  remembered  when  carmen  first  took  about 
the  tea  water ;  it  was  but  one-third  of  present  prices.  The  water 
formerly,  was  good  at  the  wells  and  some  of  the  street  pumps. 

He  remembered  when  only  one  lamp  was  used  in  the  street — 
say  at  the  corner  of  Wall  and  William  streets. 

Mr.  Brower  told  me,  street  lamps  came  into  use  about  ten 
years  before  the  revolution.  The  carts  at  that  time  were  not 
allowed  to  have  any  tire  on  their  wheels. 

The  carriage  of  the  mail  between  New  York  and  Philadelphia, 
even  since  the  revolution,  was  a  very  small  matter ;  it  was  hardly 
an  affair  to  be  robbed,  for  a  boy,  without  any  means  of  defence, 
took  the  whole  in  saddle-bags  on  horseback,  three  times  a  week. 
Then  they  wondered  to  see  it  enlarged,  and  took  it  on  a  sulkey ; 
and  by  and  by,  "  the  wonder  grew,"  that  it  should  still  more  en 


Local  Changes  and  local  Fads.  187 

large,  and  they  took  off  the  body  and  run  it  in  a  large  bag  on  a 
platform  set  on  the  wheels.  It  was  then  long  deemed  as  at  its 
7ie  plus  ultra  ;  whereas  now  it  is  a  load  of  itself  for  a  four  horse 
stage  !  At  that  time  the  post  always  went  to  and  fro  from  the 
"  Blazing  Star,"  vis-a-vis  Staten  Island,  now  unknown  as  a  great 
thoroughfare. 

General  Washington's  residence  in  New  York  was  at  the  house 
now  the  Franklin  Bank ;  to  that  house  he  once  went  in  proces- 
sion. The  house  was  kept  by  Osgood,  and  was  then  No.  1  in 
pre-eminence. 

The  house  No.  176  Water  street,  was  the  first  in  New  York 
to  change  leaden  sashes  for  wooden  ones;  leaden  ones  were 
general.  Even  Trinity  church  had  its  leaden  frames  put  in  after 
the  fire  of  1778. 

Dr.  Hosack's  map,  showing  the  grounds  of  New  York  as  in- 
vaded by  water  from  the  rivers,  marks  "  Rutgers'  Swamp,"  as 
united  to  the  East  river  by  a  little  creek  a  little  to  the  eastward 
of  Rutgers'  slip. 

At  Corlear's  Hook  he  also  marks  much  marsh  ground,  uniting 
to  the  river  by  a  small  creek. 

Beekman's  swamp  is  also  united  to  the  East  river  by  a  little 
creek  next  south-west  of  Peck's  slip. 

Mr.  Dunlap,  has  graphically  described  the  impediments  of  tra- 
velling between  the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  as  seen 
in  his  own  time,  and  earlier ;  for  instance,  "  a  commodious  stage 
boaty''  would  start  with  passengers  and  goods,  from  City  Hall 
slip,  twice  a  week,  for  Perth  Amboy  ferry,  thence  by  a  stage 
wagon  to  Cranberry  and  Burlington,  and  thence  again  by  stage 
boat  to  Philadelphia ;  all  this  in  three  days,  barring  accidents. 
But  accidents  would  occur.  The  stage  boats  were  small  sloops, 
managed  by  a  man  and  boy,  or  at  most  by  two  men,  and  passing 
by  "  the  outside  passage,"  that  is  by  the  Narrows ;  it  sometimes 
occurred  that  they  were  driven  out  to  sea.  If  the  weather  was 
very  bad  they  went  "inside"  by  the  Kills. 

Another  way  to  Philadelphia,  was  by  crossing  the  bay  to  Staten 
Island,  in  a  petty  auga,  with  lee-boards,  and  managed  only  by 
one  man.  Such  a  man  was  sometimes  inebriate  or  stultified. 
When  arrived  at  Staten  Island,  you  crossed  to  the  ferry  at 
Arthur  Roll's  sound,  by  a  scow,  and  thence  you  were  carried  to 
the  "Blazing  Star"  inn,  at  Woodbridge.  At  Brunswick,  you 
again  ciossed  in  a  scow ;  at  Trenton  again  in  a  scow ;  then  at 
Neshaminy  on  a  floating  bridge,  and  on  the  third  or  fourth  day, 
you  were  in  Philadelphia. 

The  third  and  most  common  route,  was  to  cross  the  North  river 
to  Paulus  Hook  in  a  boat,  thence  through  the  marshes  to  Hacken- 
sack  river,  across  which  ybu  passed  in  a  scow,  then  to  Passaic 
river,  and  ferried  over,  thence  as  before  mentioned,  to  Philadel- 
phia, in  about  three  days 


188  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts, 

The  perils  of  the  passage  from  the  "  Blazing  Star,"  (meaning 
the  sign  of  a  comet,)  being  four  or  five  miles  from  the  ferry  at 
Staten  Island,  may  be  illustrated  by  the  fact,  that  the  Baron  De 
Kalb,  when  he  was  a  colonel  in  January  1768,  was  the  only  one 
of  nine  persons  crossing  in  the  scow,  who  was  not  so  frozen  as  to 
lose  life  or  limb  ;  some  losing  toes,  others  feet,  fingers,  &c. ;  the 
scow  sunk  on  a  sand  island,  leaving  them  out  all  night.  He 
alone  would  not  go  to  the  fire  when  rescued,  but  put  his  feet  and 
legs  into  cold  icy  water,  took  some  refreshment,  went  to  bed,  and 
got  up  unhurt.     A  Mr.  George  died  before  they  were  relieved. 

In  the  year  1785,  the  first  stages  were  begun  between  New 
York  and  Albany,  to  run  with  four  horses,  on  the  east  side  of 
the  North  river,  at  four  pence  per  mile,  under  a  special  act  of  the 
legislature,  in  an  exclusive  grant  for  ten  years,  to  Isa  Van  Wyck, 
T.  Hall  and  J.  Kinney. 

The  canal  in  Broad  street,  went  up  o  iginally  to  the  hill  called 
Verlettenberg,  since  corrupted  to  Flattenbarrack  hill ;  the  word 
berg  implied  a  hill,  and  verletten  meant  to  stop.  The  ferry 
once  there,  at  the  head  or  stop  of  tide  water,  furnished  a  means 
to  bring  country  folks  and  marketing  from  Brooklyn  and  Gow- 
anus,  &c.,  up  to  the  heart  of  the  city.  All  the  sides  of  the  canal 
were  once  dyked  with  posts,  at  twelve  feet  from  the  houses, 
some  of  which  have  been  since  found  there. 

The  cold  winter  of  1780,  presented  the  following  incidents,  viz : 

On  the  15th  of  January,  great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  pass- 
ed to  and  fro  on  the  ice,  on  the  East  river. 

On  the  24th,  the  Hudson  was  crossed  on  the  ice. 

On  the  29th,  several  persons  passed  to  and  fro,  between  New 
York  and  Staten  Island ;  at  one  time  eighty  sleighs  with  pro- 
visions, escorted  by  one  hundred  soldiers,  passed  over  the  same 
field  of  ice. 

A  thaw  occurred  on  the  1 5th  of  February,  and  on  the  24th, 
the  navigation  became  entirely  open. 

Hugh  Gain,  in  his  Universal  Register  of  1787,  gives  the  popu- 
lation of  New  York  before  the  fire,  at  30,000  inhabitants,  and 
4200  houses. 

About  the  year  1800,  New  York  had  its  most  fashionable  pop- 
ulation in  Wall  and  Pine  streets,  between  Broadway  and  Pearl 
streets ;  and  also  on  Pearl  street  from  Hanover  Square,  (now  Old 
slip)  to  John  street ;  some  along  State  street ;  and  also  in  Broad- 
way, from  below  Wall  street  to  the  Battery. 

While  the  late  speculations  in  lots  was  rife,  in  and  near  New 
York,  a  Frenchman  was  induced  to  become  a  purchaser  of  some- 
thing or  nothing,  near  the  Wallabot.  In  time,  he  visited  his 
seller,  to  say  he  had  been  to  examine  "  the  grand  lot  vot  he  had 
sell  him,  and  he  find  no  ground  at  all,  no  ting  he  find  but  vataire;" 
he  therefore  asks  the  return  of  his  purchase  money,  and  is  answer- 
ed, that  that  is  no  buisiness  of  his.  "  Den  I  ask  you  to  be  so  good 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  189 

to  take  off  de  East  river,  off  de  top  !"  Upon  being  told,  that  that 
was  not  to  be  expected  of  him,  the  Frenchman  says  he  will  have 
no  alternative  but  to  drown  himself  there  in  despair,  and  is  coolly- 
answered,  that  he  may  go  arid  so  use  his  water  privilege  !  We 
need  scarce  add,  that  the  lots  still  remain  under  water! 

I  add  the  following  facts,  to  show  comparatively,  the  progres- 
sive changes  of  New  York,  in  population  and  wealth,  to  wit  : 
Population  of  the  city, 

In  1756,  10,381  inhabitants.     In  1820,  123,706  inhabitants. 
«   1771,  21,863         "  «  1830,  203,007         " 

"  1790,  33,131  "  "   1840,  312,710         " 

"  1810,  96,373         "  "  1845,  366,785         « 

Value  of  taxable  property  in  the  city, 

Real  Estate.  Personal.  Total. 

In  1830,        ^87,608,000  ^37,685,000  ^125,293,000. 

In  1836,        233,744,000  75,759,000  309,503,000. 

In  1844,         171,937,000  64,024,000  235,961,000. 

Governor's  Island,  originally  called  Nutting  Island,  because  of 
the  quantity  of  hazel  and  other  nuts  growing  there,  and  furnish- 
ing the  winter's  supply  to  the  citizens.  In  later  times,  says  Knick- 
erbocker, it  was  cultivated  in  gardens  for  the  use  of  the  colonial 
governors — "  once  a  smiling  garden  of  the  sovereigns  of  the  pro- 
vince." 

It  was  originally  a  part  of  Long  Island,  however  it  may  now 
appear  to  the  eye  on  beholding  so  wide  a  separation  by  deep 
water.  This  widening  and  deepening  of  the  Buttermilk  channel 
has  been  caused  by  the  filling  in  of  the  south  side  of  the  city. 

An  old  gentleman  alive  in  1828,  remembers  that  as  late  as 
1786,  the  Buttermilk  channel  was  then  deemed  unsafe,  even  for 
boats  to  pass  through  it,  because  of  the  numerous  rocks  there.  It 
was  however  so.  used  for  a  boat  channel,  through  which  boats 
with  milk  and  buttermilk,  going  to  New  York  market  from  Long 
Island,  usually  made  their  passage.  My  mother  told  me  that  when 
she  first  entered  New  York  harbour — then  a  girl — she  was  sur- 
prised to  see  all  the  market  boats  traversing  the  East  river,  rowed 
by  robust  women  without  hats  or  bonnets  ....  their  heads  fit- 
ted with  close  caps  .  .  .  two  rowers  to  each.  How  diiferent  this 
from  the  present  state  of  females  ! 

The  same  gentleman  who  told  of  the  channel  as  he  noticed  it 
in  1786,  had  his  attention  called  to  it  then  by  a  Mr.  Van  Alstine, 
upwards  of  eighty  years  of  age,  who  said  that  he  remembered 
when  Governor's  Island  was  separated  from  Long  Island,  only  by 
a  narrow  creek,  which  was  crossed  upon  logs,  raised  above  the 
high  tide,  and  having  staked  logs  for  a  foot  way  through  the  marsh 
then  there  on  each  side  of  the  creek. 

In  making  excavations  at  South  Brooklyn,  for  the  Atlantic 
dock  in  1842,  they  found  at  the  depth  of  twenty  feet  a  good  many 


190  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts. 

roots  of  trees,  in  the  positions  in  which  they  had  once  grown  on 
the  spot,  and  below  them  they  found  peat. 

Wm.  Richards,  of  Philadelphia,  famous  there  for  pickling  stur- 
geon, went  to  New  York,  before  the  revolution,  to  plant  lobsters 
in  that  neighbourhood ;  before  which  time  they  chiefly  imported 
them  from  Rhode  Island.  He  had  a  vote  of  thanks  of  the  Assem- 
bly, many  years  afterwards.  Lobsters  after  this,  probably  became 
naturalized  about  Harlem. 

In  1756,  the  first  stage  is  started  between  Phiadelphia  and 
New  York,  by  Mr.  Butler  .  .  .  three  days  through. 

In  1755,  the  mail  was  changed  from  once  a  fortnight  to  once  a 
week. 

In  1756,  the  first  British  "  packet  boats,"  commence  from  New 
York  to  Falmouth;  each  letter  to  pay  four  penny-weight  of 
silver. 

All  newspapers  went  free  of  postage  before  the  year  1758.  It 
was  then  ordered  that,  by  reason  of  their  great  increase,  they 
should  pay  9d.  a  year  for  fifty  miles,  and  1^.  Qd.  for  one  hundred 
miles. 

In  1765,  a  second  stage  is  announced  to  travel  between  New 
York  and  Philadelphia,  to  go  through  in  three  days,  being  a  co- 
vered Jersey  wagon,  oX  2d.  3.  mile  ....  owned  in  Philadelphia. 

In  1766,  another  stage  called  "the  Flying  Machine,"  to  go 
through  in  two  days,  is  advertised,  with  "  good  wagons,  and  seats 
on  springs,"  at  Sd.  a  mile,  or  20^.  through.  This  was  also  owned 
in  Philadelphia. 

Mr.  McCormick,  of  Wall  street,  remembered  when  "Burnetts 
Key"  extended  from  Wall  street  up  to  Maiden  lane,  in  one  entire 
line  of  front,  and  projecting  out  from  Water  street,  beyond  any 
other  line  of  wharves.  It  was  the  bathing  place  of  the  city  boys 
and  of  himself. 

In  1702,  New  York  was  visited  with  a  very  mortal  sickness. 
Isaac  Norris' MS.  letter  says,  "the  great  sickness  .  .  .  Barbadoes 

Distemper  or  Yellow  Fever as  we  had  it  in  Philadelphia  three 

years  before.  Some  hundred  died  there,  and  many  left  the  town, 
so  that  as  we  passed  it,  it  was  almost  desolate." 

In  1743,  a  yellow  fever,  as  it  was  called,  visited  New  York .... 
"not  imported" — but  like  it  was  at  Philadelphia  three  years 
before  ; — they  had  black  vomit  and  spots.     Vide  R.  Peters'  MS. 

In  digging  for  a  lamp  post,  at  the  north-east  corner  of  Reed 
street  and  Broadway,  they  were  surprised  to  get  up  several 
human  bones,  and  thus  leading  to  the  recollection  of  the  former 
fact,  that  between  that  place  and  Chambers  street,  was  once  the 
area  of  the  Negroes'  burying  ground ; — it  was  on  a  descending 
hill,  inclining  northward.  A  row  of  low  log  houses  once  stood 
there. 

In  Lynes'  survey  of  New  York  of  1729,  he  marks  a  lane  called 
"old  Wind-mill  lane,"  lying  between  present  Courtland  and 


Local  Changes  and  local  Fads.  191 

Liberty  streets,  extending  from  Broadway  to  present  Greenwich 
street,  and  thence  north-westward  to\^ards  the  river  side,  where 
the  Wind  Mill  must  have  stood.  It  was  then  the  most  northern 
street  on  the  west  side  of  Broadway — all  beyond  was  the  King's 
farm. 

The  same  survey  fills  up  the  head  of  the  present  Broadway, 
with  a  long  ropewalk  and  a  long  line  of  trees,  reaching  from  the 
present  Barclay  street  as  high  as  the  hospital. 

At  that  time  there  was  at  the  foot  of  the  present  Chambers 
street,  on  North  river,  a  distinguished  public  garden  and  bowling 
green.     Such  greens,  seem  to  have  been  much  in  vogue. 

Among  the  names  of  streets  changed,  are  these : — the  present 
Pine  street  was  called  King  street ;  Pearl  street  was  Queen  street ; 
Cedar  street  now,  was  little  Queen  street;  Liberty  street  was 
Crown  street, — importing  that  the  crown  was  supplanted  by  our 
self-rule  since !  The  western  end  of  Garden  street,  was  a  hill 
called  Flatten-barrack — a  celebrated  place  for  boys,  in  winter  to 
sled  down  hill !  The  present  Beaver  street,  east  of  Broad  street, 
was  Princess  street ;  the  present  Stone  street,  also  east  of  Broad 
street,  was  Duke  street ;  John  street  now,  east  of  William  street, 

was  called  Golden  Hill  from  the  Dutch  of  Gowden  Berg 

The  hill  once  there  at  its  intersection  with  Cliff  street,  gave  rise 
to  the  name  of  the  street  along  the  Cliff.     William  street,  at  its 

southern  end  was  called  South  street say  from  Maiden  lane 

to  the  East  river.  *' 

On  the  subject  of  names  of  places,  an  amusing  chapter  could 
be  written.  Judge  Benson  has  done  something  on  this  subject. 
For  instance,  Flatten-barrack  hill,  is  simply  deduced  by  corrup- 
tion from  the  name  of  Verletten  who  owned  the  herg,  i.  e.  the  hill. 
To  English  ears,  Verletten-berg,  came  to  sound  like  Flatten-bar- 
rack, and  they  added  Hill  to  it,  not  knowing  that  barrack,  for  berg, 
was  already  expressed.  Just  as  the  English  sailors  and  others  in 
the  East  Indies,  called  the  Surajah  Dorohla,  Sir  Roger  Dowlass. 

New  York  and  Judge  Egbert  Benson.  The  Judge  died  at 
Jamaica,  Long  Island,  in  August  1833,  in  his  87th  year.  He  was 
the  last  survivor  of  the  provincial  congress  of  the  State  of  New 
York  of  1775.  He  had  been  much  in  public  life,  and  always 
respected  and  esteemed.  He  was  born  in  New  York  city  in  really 
Dutch  times.  When  six  years  old  he  went  to  a  Dutch  school  at 
the  corner  of  Marketfield  and  Broad  streets,  and  was  taught  his 
catechism  in  the  Dutch  language.  His  father's  house  stood  in 
front  of  where  the  Fulton  Bank  now  stands.  They  used  in  the 
Dutch  churches  an  hour  glass  near  the  clerk,  to  ascertain  the 
length  of  the  sermon,  which  was  always  limited  to  one  hour. 
They  made  the  collections  in  a  bag,  with  a  bell  to  give  notice  of 
the  approach  of  the  deacon  (gatherers).  Judge  Benson  remem- 
bered the  line  of  palisadoes  across  the  Island  from  its  point  on 
the  East  river  from  James'  slip  to  its  point  on  the  North  river  at 


192  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts. 

the  foot  of  Warren  street,  with  its  gates  and  block  houses  erected 
in  1746,  for  a  defence  from  the  French  and  Indians  from  Canada, 
and  of  a  field  of  barley  growing  upon  the  west  side  of  Broad- 
way, as  far  south  as  the  palisadoes,  the  space  between  which  and 
the  present  Fulton  street,  was  known  as  the  Kings  farm.  He 
remembered  when  the  site  of  Columbia  college  was  a  race  course ; 
and  when  the  first  lamps  were  placed  in  the  city.  He  was  at  the 
opening  of  St.  George's  church  ;  and  assisted  in  planting  the  row 
of  trees  now  growing  in  front  of  Columbia  college  nearest  the 
building.  He  was  a  representative  to  the  first  American  congress 
of  1781,  and  he  and  James  Madison  when  still  living,  were  the 
last  surviving  members  of  that  illustrious  body.*  His  memoir 
for  the  Historical  Society,  1815,  was  published  in  1825. 

Government  Offices.    1785.  (from  Directory.) 

Treasury  Office,  No.  49  Great  Dock  St.,  Walter  Livingston? 
Commissioner  of  Treasury  there. 

Quarter  Master  General's  office.  No.  18  Wall  street,  by  Wm. 
Denning. 

General  Hospital  Department.  No.  7  Cherry  street,  by  Edwd. 
Fox. 

Clothier  General  Department,  No.  QQ  William  street, by  Joseph 
Bindon. 

Mr.  Isaac  Collins  told  me  of  "  Lispenard's  pond,"  of  fresh 
Water ;  it  was  in  Lispenard's  meadow  between  North  Seventh 
street,  and  Green  street  and  between  Broadway  and  Greenwich  j 
it  was  filled  up  about  the  year  1800.  The  boys  used  it  for  play 
and  for  sailing  their  little  boats.  He  remembered  a  swamp  near 
the  Collect,  which  still  had  the  stumps  of  great  cypress  trees  in  it. 
He  said  Bunker's  Hill,  so  high  and  so  commanding  in  its  prospect, 
should  never  have  been  removed.  It  would  now  have  been  a 
noble  observatory  for  a  grand  panorama. 

A  gentleman  has  kindly  contributed  sundry  reminiscences — 
wherein  he  says : 

It  makes  me  feel  old,  and  a  little  sad,  as  I  take  my  usual  walk 
lip  Broadway  every  day  before  dinner,  to  think  of  the  numbers 
of  well  dressed  young  gentlemen  that  pass  me  by,  in  whose 
memories  there  is  no  trace  of  the  actual  state  of  that  exquisite 
promenade,  as  it  existed  above  the  Hospital  eighteen  years  ago. 
How  many  pairs  of  feet  are  now  to  be  seen  every  morning  arrayed 
in  Benton's  best  Wellingtons,  that  never  skated  upon  the  mea- 
dows I     How  many  curled  heads  that  now  sport  Mr.  St.  John's 

*  When  we  contemplate  the  ability  of  such  men  to  leave  us  enlarged  notices 
of  their  observations,  of  their  early  times, — so  much  more  competent  to  tell  facts, 
necessarily  unknown  to  me  as  a  much  younger  man;  one  cannot  but  be  pained 
to  consider  how  very  little  they  have  done  in  this  matter  for  us.  I  actually  took 
the  pains  in  1828,  to  write  him  a  long  letter,  to  urge  him  to  communicate  what 
he  could, — the  same  I  did  to  the  late  Judge  R.  Peters,  but  neither  of  them  acted. 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  195 

short  naps  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Canal  street,  were  never 
uncovered  by  one  of  those  sudden  gusts  that  used  to  sweep  down 
from  the  dreary  waste  of  the  Collect,  to  the  utter  discomfiture 
of  the  pedestrians  crossing  the  stone  bridge  /  How  many  gallants 
now  saunter  along  at  midnight  through  the  purlieus  of  Bond 
street  and  Le  Roy  Place,  fearless  of  danger,  and  carry  no  recollec- 
tion of  that  terrible  winter  in  which  so  many  good  citizens  were 
knocked  down  soon  after  dusk,  even  as  far  south  as  Broome 
street;  when  no  man  would  venture  beyond  Broadway  towards 
the  North  river  by  night  without  carrying  pistols,  and  the  watch- 
men marched  on  their  beats  in  couples ;  one  to  take  care  of  the 
other. 

I  remember  the  first  troop  of  circus  riders  that  ever  favoured 
the  good  people  of  New  York  with  their  flipflaps  and  somersets ; 
their  leaps  over  any  indefinite  number  of  horses,  and  marvellous 
exhibitions  of  ground  and  lofty  tumbling.  I  was  a  boy  then, 
and  went  to  school  just  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  in  Broome 
street.  Not  far  from  the  school-house,  and  as  near  as  I  can 
recollect,  on  or  about  the  spot  where  Baggot's  glass  cutting  work- 
shop was  standing  two  or  three  years  ago,  there  was  a  high  steep 
hill  that  towered  above  the  few  neighbouring  houses ;  this  was  a 
general  play  ground  iox  all  the  schoolboys  and  loafers  in  that  part 
of  the  city ;  and  many  a  tough  battle  we  had,  for  the  honour  of 
our  respective  establishments.  I  remember  the  very  spot,  (totally 
hidden  from  sight  now  by  scores  of  brick  tenements)  where  I  was 
standing  with  some  ten  or  a  dozen  of  my  schoolfellows,  when 
the  tidings  were  brought  by  one  of  our  scouting  explorers,  that 
"  something  was  going  on  down  at  the  Collect."  Back  of  the 
houses  upon  the  east  side  of  Broadway,  as  far  as  Mulberry  street, 
it  was  then  all  waste  ground  from  Anthony  street  up  to 
Grand;  the  deep  and  offensive  quagtnire  that  had  gotten, 
nobody  knows  how  or  why,  the  name  of  The  Collect,  filled  up 
the  central  portion  of  this  space ;  besides  this,  there  was  a  little 
shanty  dignified  with  the  name  of  a  market,  somewhere  about 
Leonard  street  and  not  far  from  Broadway ;  the  rest  of  the 
ground  boasted  no  other  edifice  than  some  two  or  three  dozen 
pig-styes,  scattered  in  picturesque  confusion  over  its  surface. 

No  sooner  was  the  intelligence  made  known  that  "  something 
uncommon  was  going  on  at  the  Collect^^  than  off  we  started, 
full  speed,  to  spy  out  the  wonder  :  there  were  no  corners  to  turn 
then,  or  lamp  posts  to  run  against,  in  our  way ;  we  made  a  bee- 
line  from  Bunker^ s  Hill  to  the  plain  of  the  pig-styes,  and  there 
sure  enough,  we  found  sundry  carpenters  hard  at  work  erecting 
a  stage,  not  far  from  the  market.  The  structure  was  simple 
enough,  it  was  merely  a  platform  about  six  feet  high,  ten  or 
twelve  wide,  and  about  twenty  yards  long.  What  it  was  for, 
it  puzzled  our  wisdom  to  guess ;  but  a  very  brief  space  un- 
ravelled the  mystery.  The  job  was  almost  completed  when  we 
25  R 


194  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts. 

came  up,  and  after  lounging  about  for  some  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes,  staring  with  all  our  eyes,  and  uttering  more  conjectures 
than  were  propounded  touching  the  last  comet,  we  were  struck 
dumb  with  amazement  by  the  approach  of  a  band  of  splendidly 
clad  horsemen,  in  the  midst  of  whom  rode  a  princess,  as  we 
supposed,  gaily  attired  in  habits  of  very  unclean  satin,  bedizened 
with  tinsel ;  a  tiara  of  damaged  plumes  upon  her  head,  and  her 
cheeks  glowing  with  rouge  of  the  most  brilliant  intensity.  We 
had  heard  of  the  glories  of  circus-riding ;  suspicions  of  the  delight- 
ful truth  therefore  flashed  on  our  minds,  which  was  soon  height- 
ened to  certainty,  by  the  appearance  of  one  of  the  horsemen, 
whose  striped  garments,  fools-cap,  and  antic  manoeuvres,  pro- 
claimed him  the  clown  of  the  company. 

There  was  no  ring  for  the  display  of  horsemanship ;  and  what 
gave  the  affair  a  peculiar  charm  in  our  eyes,  no  churge  for  behold- 
ing the  feats  of  the  professors  ;  they  relied  for  their  remuneration 
upon  the  generosity  of  the  spectators,  which  was  appealed  to  in 
their  behalf  by  the  princess  of  the  glittering  garments,  in  personal 
applications  enforced  by  the  presentation  to  each  individual,  of 
the  tambourine  which  constituted  the  orchestra.  The  performance 
consisted  of  leaps,  tumbles,  flipflaps  and  somersets,  enlivened  by 
the  occasionally  grins  and  practical  jokes  of  the  clown.  Our 
hearts  warmed  to  the  fellow  from  the  beginning,  for  the  horse- 
whip of  the  director  or  manager  of  the  troop  was  very  often 
applied  to  his  shoulders  ;  a  species  of  discipline  with  which  we 
were  familiar  at  school,  and  which  therefore  made  a  direct  appeal 
to  our  sympathies  ;  of  course,  we  supposed  that  the  lash  was  laid 
on  in  good  earnest,  and  so,  for  any  thing  I  know,  it  was.  I  re- 
member perfectly  well  the  indignation  I  felt,  whenever  he  got  a 
cut  that  made  him  skip  like  the  servants  in  "  Taming  the  Shrew'^ 
when  Petruchio  lays  about  him ;  and  equally  well  the  very 
essential  flogging  I  was  favoured  with  when  I  went  home,  for 
loitering  more  than  an  hour  beyond  my  usual  time  of  returning 
from  school ;  a  misdemeanour  for  which  I  did  not  deem  it  expe- 
dient to  allege  my  attendance  upon  the  equestrian  exhibition,  as 
an  excuse  or  satisfactory  reason. 

The  gentlemen  of  the  spring-board  and  leaping-pole  of  whom 
I  have  already  made  honourable  mention,  gathered  so  many 
coppers  (varied  with  a  decent  allowance  of  kicks  now  and  then) 
in  the  exercise  of  their  abilities,  that  their  director  was  soon 
encouraged  to  make  preparations  for  a  more  permanent  habita- 
tion among  us.  Whether  it  was  that  the  efiiuvia  from  the 
Collect  were  too  much  for  their  sensitive  olfactory  nerves,  or  that 
the  want  of  an  enclosure  was  found  inconvenient  by  reason  of 
the  indiscriminate  character  of  the  beholders,  whom  the  fame  of 
their  doings  attracted,  I  know  not ;  but  certain  it  is  that  in  the 
course  of  a  very  few  weeks  they  decamped  from  the  plain  of  the 
pig-styes,  and  established  their  head  quarters  in  what  was  then 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts,  195 

nothing  more  than  a  large  lot  with  a  high  fence  surrounding  it ; 
although  now  it  defies  competition  for  neatness  and  beauty  among 
all  the  pleasuring  places  in  Christendom.  There  must  be  a 
great  many  now  in  New  York  who  remember  the  time  when  a 
lover  of  rural  beauties  would  have  been  just  as  likely  to  find  a 
rare  shrub,  a  beautiful  flower,  a  brilliant  parterre,  or  an  ice-cream, 
on  the  craggy  top  of  the  Devil's  Pulpit,  as  within  the  inclosure 
that  then  formed  the  boundary  between  Niblo^s  garden  and 
Broadway.  The  house  wherein  so  many  dinners  and  exquisite 
suppers  have  been  demolished  ;  so  many  canvass-backs  browned, 
and  so  many  blue  pointers  tickled  to  death ;  in  which  so  many 
champagne-corks  have  been  popped,  and  so  many  furious  head- 
aches engendered,  was  not  then  erected  ;  and  in  its  stead,  a  fence 
some  eight  or  ten  feet  in  height,  stared  with  a  most  forbidding 
aspect  upon  the  high-road  to  Boston,  (for  that  part  of  Broadway 
was  then  nothing  more  than  a  road,)  and  seemed  to  defy  with 
a  sturdy  moroseness,  every  attempt  to  spy  out  the  doings  that 
might  be  in  progress  within.  In  the  side  fronting  on  Prince 
street,  then  as  now,  was  a  large  gate,  secured  by  a  padlock  of 
clumsy  dimensions;  and  a  villanous  row  of  sharp  spikes  extended 
along  the  top,  to  the  utter  discomfiture  of  the  hopes  of  every  am- 
bitious climber. 

This  then  was  the  spot  selected  for  the  display  oi  equestrian 
feats  ;  a  stage  was  erected ;  and  so  was  a  shanty  or  booth  in 
one  of  the  corners,  wherein  thirsty  souls  might  indulge  their 
bibulous  inclinations,  in  the  intervals  of  the  performance.  A 
ring  too  was  formed ;  and  strange  were  the  rumors  that  went 
abroad  through  the  younger  part  of  the  population,  touching  the 
wonderful  works  of  the  trained  quadrupeds  and  their  desperate 
riders.  The  tambourine  that  at  first  had  served  in  the  double 
duty  of  orchestra  and  collection-box,  had  now  grown  up  into  a 
band,  consisting  of  three  drums  (one  a  bass),  a  trumpet  and  two 
fifes ;  and  a  precious  disturbance  they  kicked  up  every  evening. 
The  performance  commenced  every  day  (except  Sunday)  at 
about  four,  and  was  kept  up  till  dusk  ;  thus  lying  in  wait,  as  it 
were,  for  all  the  urchins  returning  from  school  who  happened  to 
dwell  any  where  in  the  neighbourhood.  Among  these,  for  my  sins, 
I  was  one ;  and  though  it  seldom  happened  that  I  could  command 
the  required  amount  of  coin  to  purchase  admission,  and  the  knot 
holes  in  the  fence  were  all  carefully  stopped  (to  prevent  peeping 
without  paying),  I  never  could  go  on  my  way  without  lingering 
round  the  charmed  spot,  in  the  doubtful  hope  of  a  clandestine 
enjoyment  by  some  unforeseen  combination  of  circumstances ;  at 
the  more  than  probable  risk  of  an  introduction  to  the  rattan 
when  I  got  home  for  the  "dallying  dear  delay'^  of  my  return. 

At  the  time  of  which  I  am  writing,  the  number  of  traps  for 
stray  silver  and  bank  notes  in  New  York,  was  much  less  than  it 
is  now  :  the  only  theatre  was  opened  (if  I  remember  right)  but 


196  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts. 

three  times  a  week ;  the  Castle  Garden  was  nothing  more  than 
a  fortress  grinning  with  thirty-two  pounders  upon  the  vessels 
that  sailed  up  the  bay  ;  Peale's  museum  was  not ;  an  opera  was 
a  thing  unheard  of,  and  soirees  musicales  were  among  the  things 
yet  to  be  invented.  Vauxhall  was  in  all  its  glory  ;  but  nobody 
ever  dreamed  of  going  there  except  upon  Sunday  evenings, 
and  those  rare  occasions  upon  which  Mr.  Delacroix  was  going  to 
do  something  wonderful — perhaps  four  or  five  times  in  the  year. 
Barrere  was  making  a  fortune  very  quietly  with  his  little  concern 
in  Chatham  street,  where  his  ice  creams  and  his  fountain  that 
threw  up  a  quart  of  water  in  twenty-four  hours,  were  the  admira- 
tion of  all  the  world. 

The  popular  periodical,  the  New  York  Mirror,  under  the  above 
head,  gives  an  article  which  we  give  in  part  below.  It  may  amuse 
and  interest  our  readers,  as  giving  a  brief  picture  of  the  innova- 
tions and  revolutions  in  things  which  fashion  and  change  is  every 
where  impressing  upon  our  country  in  the  form  of  improve- 
ment. 

"  The  city  of  the  Knickerbockers  is  fast  disappearing  from  the 
world  of  realities,  and  their  homes  are  following  them  to  the  vast 
shadow  of  oblivion.  Tiled  roofs  and  high  peaked  gable  ends 
have  already  undergone  the  fate  of  the  cocked  hats,  the  eel-skin 
queues,  and  the  multitudinous  small-clothes  that  once  gave  assur- 
ance of  a  race  of  Dutchmen  in  this  venerable  city ;  all  are  gone, 
and  in  a  few  short  years  there  will  be  none  even  to  remember 
that  such  things  were  !  St.  Nicholas  has  abandoned  his  once 
favourite  metropolis,  and  how  should  it  be  otherwise,  since  there 
is  not  a  Dutch  chimney  corner  left  for  him  to  nestle  in  ?" 

"  It  is  a  melancholy  thing  to  see  the  desolation  that  is  wrought 
by  fashion.  How  it  sweeps  away  all  relics  of  the  venerable  past, 
cutting  short  the  term  for  which  they  might  be  spared  by  the  fell 
scythe  of  the  inevitable  destroyer,  time,  and  anticipating  even  his 
too  speedy  operations.  Where  is  the  mansion  of  the  Stuyvesants  ? 
We  had  fondly  hoped,  that  if  but  for  the  sake  of  the  immortal 
Peter,  that  hallowed  edifice  could  be  suffered  to  remain  until  its 
crumbling  walls  should  yield  to  the  slow  corrosion  of  the  ele- 
ments, that  generations  yet  unborn  might  gaze  upon  it  with 
respect  as  the  dwelling  of  a  hero.  It  is  gone  ;  the  hand  of  vio- 
lence has  fallen  upon  it,  and  the  hallowed  ground  on  which  it 
stood,  now  groans  beneath  the  weight  of  a  tall  mansion,  whose 
large  chimneys  "  flout  the  pale  blue  skies,"  and  Whose  air  of 
lightness  forms  a  perfect  contrast  with  the  massive  and  solemn 
grandeur  of  the  time-worn  edifice  it  has  supplanted." 

"  The  Walton  house  indeed  remains  ;  but  where  are  the  beau- 
tiful little  snuggeries  that  even  within  the  last  ten  years  gave  so 
dignified  an  air  to  the  narrow  precincts  of  Garden  street?  It 
seems  but  yesterday  that  we  were  wont  to  make  a  weekly  pil- 
grimage through  Broad  street  on  Sunday,  after  church,  for  the 


^-^fe 


Gov.  Stuyvesant's  Old  Mansion,  m'iicv'cryy  p.  130  a^d  l^C, 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts,  197 

single  purpose  of  beholding  those  remaining  tokens  of  a  genera- 
tion long  since  passed  away ;  and  now  we  look  for  them  in  vain. 
Two  were  levelled  with  the  ground  in  1827,  the  oldest  bearing 
on  its  front,  in  sprawling  iron  letters,  the  date  of  1701,  and  the 
other  of  1698;  and  there  was  one  still  older,  built  in  1689,  to 
which  we  always  felt  a  strong  temptation  to  take  off  our  hat  in 
passing, — as  to  the  oldest  of  the  Knickerbockers.  They  are  all 
gone  now.  We  remember  a  nest  of  these  Dutch  tenements  at 
the  corner  of  Broad  and  Garden  streets — the  effigies  of  which  are 
given  in  the  cut  that  accompanies  this  article,  and  they  too  are 
gone." 

In  December,  1835, 1  visited  the  smoking  ruins  of  "the  great 
fire."  My  notices  of  what  I  saw  and  thought,  I  committed  to  a 
small  MS.  book  of  thirty  pages  8vo.  It  might  prove  a  useful  and 
interesting  picture  of  that  event,  at  some  future  age.  A  centennial 
for  instance. 

When  the  forefathers  of  the  present  race  of  inhabitants  were 
sufferers  by  the  great  conflagrations  of  1776  and  1778,  they  felt 
as  if  ruin  was  perpetual,  but  behold  how  soon  the  evil  was  healed, 
and  what  was  severely  felt  as  a  partial  evil  then,  became  a  uni- 
versal future  good.  This  last  conflagration  swept  off  the  last  re- 
mains of  the  earliest  settlers,  and  all  the  visible  labours  of  the 
Diitch.  Farewell  now — a  long  farewell,  to  the  city  of  the  Dutch  ! 
Farewell  to  "  the  Scout,  Burghermasters,  and  Shepens"  no  longer 
there !  They  and  their  houses  all  gone !  Farewell  to  your 
Rondeels  and  Stadt  buys;  to  your  compact  and  mazy  streets,  no 
longer  to  be  named  in  fame  or  song — farewell  forever  to  your 
ancient,  but  now  burnt  out  and  effaced  streets  ;  such  as  Princess 
street,  Duke  street,  Dock  street,  Mill  street,  and  the  great  and 
little  Queen  streets.  All  now  to  be  reconstructed  in  modern  form 
and  grandeur,  and  especially  by  towering  stores  of  four,  five  and 
even  six  stories  in  height — a  measure  but  too  likely  to  produce 
other  inextinguishable  fires. 

Since  I  wrote  the  above,  in  1835,  it  comes  to  pass  in  1841,  that 
such  high  houses  cannot  be  insured,  unless  at  extra  rates,  and  thp 
consequence  has  been  that  twenty  houses  in  Piatt  street  are 
resolved  to  be  reduced  from  five  to  four  stories,  as  a  means  to 
increase  their  income  to  the  owners  at  a  less  insurance  !  so  it 
should  be.  Losses  by  fires  in  ten  years  precednig  the  introduc- 
tion of  Croton  water,  amounted  to  twenty  milUons  of  dollars. 
But  in  one  year,  from  August  1842  to  August  1843,  the  total  loss 
with  the  use  of  that  water,  was  only  ig246,404,  in  buildings  and 
goods. 

On  the  l"9th  of  July  1 845,  ten  years  after  the  "  great  fire,"  there 
came  to  be  another  exhibition  of  a  tremendous  conflagration,  in 
an  adjoining  quarter  of  the  city,  as  is  shown  in  the  diagram.  The 
first  fire  being  shown  in  the  border  lines,  and  the  last  fire  in  the 
dark  area,  wherein  were  consumed  three  hundred  and  forty -five 

R   2 


198  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts, 

houses ;  the  houses  and  goods  destroyed,  estimated  to  be  worth 
five  milUons  of  dollars ;  the  other  at  thirty  millions. 

Mr.  Dunlap,  in  leading  his  readers  "  about  town,"  (in  his  pub- 
hcation,)  says :  We  will  proceed  first  along  what  is  called  the  East 
river,  and  go  northward  and  eastward.  The  portion  of  Water 
street,  between  "  Old  slip"  and  "  Coflee-house  slip,"  was  unbuilt 
on  its  outer  or  eastern  side,  (and  called  Rotten-row,)  the  water 
occupying  the  space,  from  the  "Coffee-house  slip"  to  Fly  or 
"  Vly-market  slip,"  or  "  Long  Island  ferry."  That  which  is  Water 
street  now,  was  called  "  Burnet  street."  It  was  built  on  both 
sides,  and  had  a  block  somewhat  similar  to  Crugar's  wharf,  (above 
mentioned)  also  projecting  in  the  river  or  harbour.  From  "  Fly- 
market  slip,"  we  find  a  similar  projection  serving  as  the  founda- 
tion and  continuation  of  Water  street  to  "  Burling  slip  ;"  from 
whence,  as  we  go  north-east,  the  water  occupied  the  east  side  of 
Water  street,  except  as  piers  or  wharves  occasionally  projected 
into  it.  That  part  of  Water  street  which  was  then  so  called, 
commenced  at  "  Peck's  slip"  extending  eastward  till  intersecting 
Cherry  street,  which  last  terminates  at  what  was  afterwards 
"  New  slip,"  but  then  was  the  commencement  of  the  "  ship  yards." 
Thus  far,  made  the  end  of  the  town,  in  that  direction.  Going  back 
therefore  again  to  "  Crugar's  wharf,"  we  will  proceed  in  the  other 
direction,  going  south-west,  on  which  side  we  find  the  tide  water 
flowing  up  to  what  is  now  Pearl  street,  and  a  long  pier  projecting 
into  it.  South-west  of  this  pier  were  two  basins  called  east  and 
west  dock.  Further  on  was  a  small  block,  which  was  separated 
from  the  Battery  by  "  Whitehall  slip." 

The  Battery  on  the  low  point  of  the  island,  was  founded  on 
rocks,  whose  black  faces  appeared  between  the  ramparts  and  the 
water,  except  at  some  very  high  tides.  This  rocky  margin  was 
continued  round  the  point  unto  the  commencement  of  Broadway, 
at  the  same  spot  it  now  does.  Number  One  Broadway  was  long 
known  as  Kennedy  house.  The  same  is  still  standing,  but  much 
enlarged.  In  the  Bowling  Green,  before  it,  stood  a  leaden  statue 
gilt,  of  George  III.,  erected  on  occasion  of  the  Stamp  act  repealed. 
South  of  this  place,  on  an  eminence,  stood  Fort  George,  which 
overlooked  the  Battery,  and  overhung  the  little  narrow  street 
called  Pearl  street,  which  has  given  its  name  to  what  was  once 
(four  consecutive  streets)  Dock  street,  Hanover  Square,  Queen 
street,  and  Magazine  street,  superseding  and  engrossing  them  all 
by  its  own  name.  The  governor's  house  and  garden  were  within 
the  precints  of  the  fort,  where  were  quarters  and  barracks  for 
soldiers.  Pearl  street,  in  1767,  (to  retrace  the  order  before 
mentioned)  extended  from  the  Battery  to  Whitehall,  thence  Dock 
street  to  Old  slip,  thence  Hanover  Square  to  Coffee-house  slip,  and 
thence  Queen  street,  ending  in  Chatham  road  or  row.  This  was 
a  row  on  the  east  side  of  what  is  now  Chatham  street.  The 
west  or  north-west  side  was  open  from  where  Pearl  street  now 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  199 

crosses  Chatham,  to  the  old  jail,  lately  metamorphosed  into  a 
Grecian  temple.  This  open  space  was  occupied  by  a  rough  bank 
and  a  hill  called  Windmill  hill. 

The  inhabitants  then  kept  their  cows  in  the  town,  and  cow- 
herds received  them  in  the  morning,  and  drove  them  to  pasture, 
returning  them  in  due  time  in  the  evening.  (What  a  rural  char- 
acter then  !)  The  cow  pastures  were  on  the  east,  upon  a  line 
with  the  present  Grand  street,  on  the  west,  as  low  down  as  the 
hospital.  Behind  the  tea  water  pump,  was  the  Kolk  or  Collect, 
extending  to  the  vicinity  of  Bayard's  mount,  afterward  called 
Bunker  Hill.  This  mount,  as  I  understand  him,  he  elsewhere 
says,  would  have  presented  one  of  the  finest  elevations  for  a  pano- 
ramic picture,  imaginable !  It  is  cut  down,  but  should  have 
been  reserved  as  public.  To  the  east  of  Chatham  row,  the  town 
was  partially  built  on  low  swampy  ground,  intermingled  with 
water,  to  "  the  ship  yards,"  (a  kind  of  water  habitations.)  Nearly 
opposite  the  place  where  Queen  street  ended,  (as  above  told)  in 
Chatham  road,  was  the  celebrated  tea  water  pump,  from  which 
the  inhabitants  were  supplied  by  carts,  and  attended  by  men  and 
women  distributing  water  as  regularly  as  they  do  milk  now. 
Beyond  this  pump,  began  farms  and  gardens  along  the  Bowery 
or  Boston  road,  the  only  road  northward. 

Returning  back  to  Kennedy's  house,  at  the  beginning  of  Broad- 
way, we  proceed  along  the  North  river  side,  thus — behind  his 
house  and  several  adjacent  ones,  up  Broadway,  were  gardens, 
whose  walls  of  termination  rested  on  the  beach,  and  were  washed 
by  the  tide  water  !  From  Trinity  church  northward,  the  build- 
ings were  mean,  until  we  come  to  St.  Paul's  chapel,  beyond 
which  were  public  houses,  gardens,  fields,  orchards,  and  swamps. 
Streets  extended  from  Broadway  down  to  the  river,  then  ranging 
where  Greenwich  street  now  is  located. 

At  the  water  end  of  Broad  street,  were  the  east  and  west 
dock,  the  Albany  pier  and  basin.  Here  stood  the  Merchant's 
Exchange  of  brick.  A  bridge  or  planked  walk  extended  from  it, 
up  the  street,  covering  the  former  tide-creek  or  sewer  there, 
extending  up  to  above  Garden  street,  where  stood  "  the  ferry 
house,"  immortalized  in  Cooper's  Water  Witch.  Many  Dutch 
houses  on  this  street  were  still  remaining. 

The  Collect's  water  communicated  with  those  of  the  low 
grounds  on  the  other  side  of  the  road,  called  Lispenard's  meadows, 
under  a  bridge,  and  the  skaters  of  that  day  passed  at  pleasure 
from  one  collection  of  waters  to  the  other,  i.  e.  from  Pearl  street, 
(as  now  called)  over  to  the  sand  beach  on  the  North  river.  There 
was  seen  the  present  king  of  England,  trying  to  skate,  supported 
by  generals,  admirals,  &c.  "  But  times  have  altered.  Trade  has 
changed  the  scene !" 

The  newspapers,  at  first,  in  New  York,  did  not  rest  their  sales 
upon  subscribers,  but  upon  those  who  would  call  and  buy;  from 


Z06  Local  Changes  and  local  Fads. 

this  cause,  you  could  hear  at  Gaine's  publication  office,  opposite 
the  Coffee  House,  a  man  bawling  out  before  the  house,  "  News, 
news,  bloody  news,  great  news,"  &c.  This  was  particularly  the 
case,  while  the  British  army  held  New  York.  How  different 
now ! 

Colma7i's  Island,  he  says,  is  the  same  now  Coney  Island ;  he 
says  that  Colman  was  buried  there  when  killed ;  he  does  not 
explain  whi/  his  account  differs  from  mine,  as  "at  Colman's 
point  at  the  Hook.*' 

Dutch  houses.  He  remembered  when  the  greatest  part  of 
Broad  street  was  so  built. 

Jacob  Leisler,  was  a  militia  captain,  his  opposition  as  well  as 
the  people,  was  to  the  Governor  Dongan  as  a  Roman  Catholic, 
so  placed  purposely  by  the  Duke  of  York,  made  King  James  II. 
He  and  the  people  declared  for  King  William.  Those  in  oppo- 
sition, were  those  in  pay  and  power  on  the  king's  side.  Leisler 
was  a  man  of.  property,  and  although  he  helped  the  side  of  King 
William,  that  court  did  not  countenance  him,  because  they 
wanted  his  place  for  its  own  favourite.  Gov.  Slaughter  who  came 
out,  brought  Leisler  to  a  mock  trial,  and  had  him  unjustly 
executed.  [Read  Dunlap's  book.] 

Leisler  was  buried  in  the  old  Dutch  church,  in  Garden  street, 
by  the  people,  and  Gov.  Slaughter  was  buried  in  Gov.  Stuyve- 
sant's  vault,  in  St.  Mark's  church. 

The  Dutch  church  in  Garden  street,  was  built  in  time  of  Gov. 
Fletcher,  between  1692  and  1697.  My  account  said  it  was  built 
Jirst  in  1643.     Trinity  was  also  built  at  the  same  time. 

Maiden  Lane,  "  Madge  Padje^^  its  slip  was  called  the  Count- 
ess's slip,  after  the  Countess  of  Bellermont,  (1700)  when  it  was 
made.  I  have  seen  elsewhere  that  Coenties  slip  meant  Countess ! 

Gold  street,  was  called  Gouden  Bergh  by  the  Dutch  ;  i.  e. 
Golden  Hill,  and  probably  referred  to  rich  residents  there,  as  was 
the  case  at  Schenectady,  in  a  similar  name  there. 

Cliff  street,  was  from  Dirk  Vander  Cliff. 

John  street,  was  called  so  from  John  Harpindingh ;  a  part  of 
it  was  called  Golden  Hill.  He  was  a  man  of  property,  and  gave 
the  ground  on  which  was  built  the  North  church. 

The  Negro  Plot  of  1740,  is  treated  as  a  panic  and  not  a  reality, 
yet  the  excitement  was  extreme.  Blacks  accused  one  another 
from  the  hope  of  pardon.  They  made  out  that  Mr.  Ury,  an 
Enghsh  clergyman  and  schoolmaster,  was  a  Popish  priest  in 
disguise,  and  hung  him  and  seventeen  blacks,  and  thirteen  blacks 
were  burnt  alive  !  The  whole  excitement  was  just  like  the  Salem 
witchcraft,  a  wild  delusion  of  men's  minds,  and  it  chiefly  arose 
from  the  excited  dread  of  Popery.  The  burning  was  at  the  inter- 
section of  Pearl  and  Chatham  streets,  and  the  hanging  was  on 
the  Island,  where  the  Arsenal  now  is,  on  Elm  street. 

Sir  Danvers  Osborne,  who  came  out  governor  in  1753,  soob 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  201 

afterwards  hung  himself  by  his  handkerchief  in  a  garden.  He 
had  lost  his  wife  in  England,  and  was  melancholy.  Mr.  Delancy 
as  lieutenant-governor,  then  acted  awhile. 

Sarah  Wilson,  the  convict,  1771.  She  had  been  a  favourite  maid 
of  Miss  Vernon,  who  was  a  maid  of  honour  to  the  Queen.  Sarah 
Wilson  found  occasion  to  steal  the  Queen's  jewels ;  the  consequence 
was,  she  was  disgraced,  and  transported,  and  became  the  servant 
of  Wm.  Duval,  of  Frederick  county,  Maryland.  She  run  away 
from  him,  and  set  herself  up  as  the  Princess  Susannah  Caroline, 
sister  to  the  Queen  of  England  !  In  this  fraud  she  succeeded  for 
a  time,  until  published  and  discovered  by  her  master,  Duval,  of 
Bush  Creek,  Maryland.  The  whole  story  is  amusing  as  told  by 
Dunlap.  She  united  at  one  time,  in  Virginia,  with  the  notorious 
Tom  Bell,  who  had  been  a  convict  servant  to  a  storekeeper  in 
Burlington,  N.  J. 

Gen.  Horatio  Gates,  was  an  Englishman,  was  captain  with 
Braddock,  and  afterwards  captain  and  aid  to  Gen.  Monckton,  the 
governor  of  New  York,  and  both  went  out  with  the  expedition 
of  1763,  to  Martinique.  He  died  near  New  York  city,  at  Rose  Hill 
house,  where  he  lived.  He  had  a  place  in  Virginia,  where  he 
married  his  first  wife,  and  where  some  say  he  died,  called  Tra- 
veller's Rest. 

Early  Theatre,  in  Beekman  street,  April  16,  1764,  as  per  its 
advertisement :  "  To  be  let,  the  Play-house  at  the  upper  end  of 
Beekman  street,  very  convenient  for  a  store,  being  90  feet  long, 
by  40  feet  wide,  inquire  of  Wm.  Beekman."  (In  the  year  1766, 
during  the  Stamp  Act  excitement,  the  mob  tore  this  building 
down.  This  was  done  because  the  players  had  heen  forewarned 
that  amusements  and  expenses  did  not  suit  the  solemnity  and  the 
public  distress  of  the  times.) 

Impressment,  Sfc.  Four  fishermen,  supplying  the  New  York 
market,  in  June,  1764,  were  seized  by  a  press-gang  in  the  har- 
bour, and  carried  aboard  the  tender.  But  the  people  seized  the 
barge  of  the  captain  when  at  the  wharf,  and  bore  it  to  the  fields, 
the  present  Park,  and  burned  it  in  triumph,  at  the  same  time  going 
to  the  tender  and  getting  the  men  released.  In  the  same  year,  in 
April,  a  vessel  arrived  from  Bristol  and  was  boarded  for  her  men ; 
they  fiercely  resisted,  so  much  so,  that  the  man  of  war  fired  upon 
her.  Besides  this  harassing  kind  of  insolence  in  our  very  har- 
bours, the  men  of  war  were  accustomed  to  cause  the  sloops  and 
boats  passing  them,  to  strike  their  colours.  On  one  occasion,  a 
pleasure  boat  going  from  Whitehall  to  Elizabethtown,  with  Mr. 
Rickets  and  his  friends,  his  wife  and  children,  was  fired  into  for 
such  neglect,  and  the  ball  struck  the  nurse  having  a  child  in  her 
arms,  and  killed  her  !     It  made  much  excitement  then. 

Stamp  Act  resistance.  They  burnt  the  coach  of  Gov.  Colden, 
and  himself  in  effigy.  The  people  went  by  night  to  a  brig,  having 
boxes  of  stamps  on  board,  took  them  in  a  boat  up  the  East  river, 
26 


202  Local  Changes  and  local  Facts, 

and  there  burned  them  at  the  ship  yards.  The  alleged  objection 
to  Golden  was,  as  they  said,  that  he  had  had  the  cannon  spiked. 
His  effigy  was  set  astride  upon  a  cannon,  and  so  burned  in  1766. 

Tea  Duty  resistance.  On  the  21st  of  April,  1774,  the  long 
expected  tea  ship,  the  Nancy,  arrived.  The  Sons  of  Liberty 
waited  upon  the  captain,  and  compelled  him  to  weigh  anchor  and 
go  home  again !  A  Captain  Chambers,  an  American,  having 
brought  eighteen  chests  on  his  private  account,  was  obliged  to 
give  them  up  to  the  people,  who  cast  them  into  the  water  at  the 
Coffee-house  slip. 

The  Statue  of  Lord  Chatham,  Wall  street,  was  erected  on 
the  7th  of  September  1770,  "as  a  public  testimony  of  the  grate- 
ful sense  of  the  colony  of  New  York,  for  the  many  eminent 
services  rendered  to  America,  and  particularly  in  his  promoting 
the  repeal  of  the  Stamp  Act,  1770."  At  the  same  time,  they 
erected  the  statue  of  George  HI.,  in  the  Bowling  Green,  on  the 
21st  of  August  1770,  the  birthday  of  his  father  the  Prince  of 
Wales.  In  the  case  of  Pitt's  statue,  it  was  an  artifice  to  make 
him  unduly  popular  as  our  friend,  so  that  he  might  the  better 
sway  our  sentiments  in  making  us  credit  his  assertions  that  "  the 
Parliament  had  the  right  to  bind  us  in  all  cases."  In  enforcing 
this  doctrine,  he  died  (says  John  Adams)  a  martyr  to  his  idol, 
"the  sovereignty  of  Parliament !"  Mr.  Dunlap  insists,  that  he  was 
not  our  friend.  The  statue  was  voted  by  town  meeting  on  23d 
June,  1766. 

Trinity  Church  Yard.  In  digging  for  the  new  and  enlarged 
foundation  of  the  new  Trinity  church,  several  ancient  vaults 
have  been  opened.  Among  the  relics  were  the  silver  plate  and 
remains  of  the  Countess  of  Glifton ;  interred  about  100  years 

since,  those  of  the   Hon.   Mr.  aged  seven  years,  and  a 

number  of  others.  A  record  of  burials  at  this  church  is  preserved 
from  the  3^ear  1702  (with  the  omission  of  the  time  of  the  revolu- 
tion) making  160,000  bodies,  thus  making  as  many  bodies  beloiv 
ground  as  now  (in  1840)  dwell  alive  above  ground  in  New  York. 

Communepauw.  This  remarkably  queer  sounding  name,  near 
New  York  city,  now  so  little  known  in  its  origin  and  meaning  to 
the  New  Yorkers  themselves,  is  derived  from  the  name  of  Mr. 
Pauw,  the  original  Patroon  of  that  part  of  the  Jersey  shore, 
which  he  had  patented  to  him  as  Pavonia.  A  part  of  which 
formed  an  early  Commune  in  sight  of  and  near  to  the  city,  and 
was  thence  understood  as  the  chief  or  first  Commune  of  Pauw, 
i.  e.  Communepauw,  and  since  popularly  called  Communipaw. 

Flushing.  This  ancient  village  was  begun  in  1644.  Soon 
after  it  was  visited  by  the  Quakers,  sundry  of  whom  settled  there. 
George  Fox  preached  there  in  1672,  under  the  two  oaks  now 
there.  The  Episcopal  church  was  formed  there  in  1720,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Society  for  the  propagation  of  the  Gospel  in 
foreign  parts. 


Local  Changes  and  local  Facts.  203 

Here  and  there  we  still  find  a  tract  of  country,  some  green  spot 
on  the  desert  of  civilization,  which  recalls  the  days  of  the  Knicker- 
bockers and  their  primitive  and  simple  habits.  On  Long  Island 
and  in  Bergen  county,  by  the  sedgy  margin  of  the  winding  Hack- 
ensack  and  the  willowed  banks  of  the  Passaic,  an  old  mansion, 
such  as  marked  the  whereabouts  of  the  ancients,  still  exists,  fast 
anchored  to  its  platform,  where  deeply  embowered  in  venerable 
trees,  it  points  its  sharp  roof  to  the  skies.  When  we  meet  with 
such  on  York  Island,  or  Long  Island,  we  may  still  greet  ourselves 
with  the  hope  of  finding  old  Dutch  hospitality  amid  the  descend- 
ants of  ancient  families.  Here  are  paths  leading  through  beds 
of  pinks,  and  hollyhocks,  and  the  ever-blooming  rose.  Here 
are  the  jessamines,  the  honeysuckle  and  the  sweet  brier,  winding 
their  emulous  tendrils  and  blossoms  around  the  door-posts ;  and 
here  the  trumpet  creeper  and  its  dark  luxuriant  foliage  and  car- 
mine blossoms.  Within  is  seen  the  wainscoting  of  the  old  hall, 
the  family  clock  in  the  corner,  the  massive  carved  cornice  plate 
and  furniture,  all  betokening  an  air  of  other  days.  There  you 
may  still  expect  to  find  an  unaffectedness  of  manners,  cordial  hos- 
pitality of  reception  and  directness  of  purpose,  and  the  beautiful 
simplicity  of  costume  in  the  females  of  the  family,  such  as  may 
be  found  in  the  Dutch  belles  of  New  Utrecht,  Flatbush  and 
Gravesend. 


Manners  and  Customs. 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

«' A  different  face  of  things  each  age  appears, 
And  all  things  alter  in  a  course  of  years." 

I  AM  indebted,  for  the  following  ideas  of  "  Men  and  Manners 
once,"  as  seen  in  the  middle  state  of  life  generally,  to  facts  im- 
parted to  me  by  the  aged,  to  wit : — 

The  Dutch  kept  five  festivals,  of  peculiar  notoriety,  in  the  year : 
say  Kerstydt,  (Christmas);  Nieuwjar,  (New  Year),  a  great  day 
of  cake ;  Paas,  (the  Passover) ;  Pinxter,  (i.  e.  Whitsuntide) ; 
and  San  Claas,  (i.  e.  Sainst  Nicholas,  or  Christ-kinkle  day). 
The  negroes  on  Long  Island,  on  some  of  those  days,  came  in 
great  crowds  to  Brooklyn  and  held  their  field  frolics. 

The  observance  of  New  Year's  day  (Nieuw  jar)  is  an  occasion 
of  much  good  feeling  and  hospitality,  come  down  to  the  present 
generation  from  their  Dutch  forefathers.  No  other  city  in  the 
Union  ever  aims  at  the  Hke  general  interchange  of  visits.  Cakes, 
wines,  and  punch  abound  in  every  house  ;  and,  from  morning  till 
night  houses  are  open  to  receive  the  calls  of  acquaintances,  and 
to  pass  the  mutual  salutations  of  a  "  happy  New  Year,"  &c. 

It  was  the  general  practice  of  families  in  middle  life,  to  spin 
and  make  much  of  their  domestic  wear  at  home.  Short  gowns 
and  petticoats  were  the  general  in-door  dresses. 

Young  women  who  dressed  gay  to  go  abroad  to  visit,  or  to 
church,  never  failed  to  take  off"  that  dress  and  put  on  their  home- 
made as  soon  as  they  got  home ;  even  on  Sunday  evenings  when 
they  expected  company,  or  even  their  beaux,  it  was  their  best 
recommendation  to  seem  thus  frugal  and  ready  for  any  domestic 
avocation.  The  boys  and  young  men  of  a  family  always  changed 
their  dress  for  a  common  dress  in  the  same  way.  There  was  no 
custom  of  offering  drink  to  their  guests ;  when  punch  was  offered, 
it  was  in  great  bowls. 

Dutch  dances  were  very  common ;  the  supper  on  such  occa- 
sions was  a  pot  of  chocolate  and  bread.  The  Rev.  Dr.  Laidlie, 
who  arrived  in  1764,  did  much  to  preach  them  into  disuse;  he 
was  very  exact  in  his  piety,  and  was  the  Jirst  minister  of  the 
Dutch  Reformed  Church  who  was  called  to  preach  in  the  English 
language. 

''"  The  negroes  used  to  dance  in  the  markets,  where  they  used 
tomtoms,  horns,  &c.,  for  music.  They  used  often  to  sell  negro 
slaves  at  the  coffee-house. 

All  marriages  had  to  be  published  beforehand,  three  weeks  at 
the  churches,  or  else,  to  avoid  that,  they  had  to  purchase  a  license 
of  the  governor  : — a  seemingly  singular  surveillance  for  a  great 


Manners  and  Customs.  205 

military  (MQi\     We  may  presume  he  cared  little  for  the  fact 
beyond  his  fee. 

Before  the  revolution,  tradesmen  of  good  repute  worked  hard ; 
— there  were  none  as  masters,  mere  lookers-on ;  they  hardly  ex- 
pected to  be  rich ;  their  chief  concern  in  summer  was  to  make 
enough  a-head  to  lay  up  carefully  for  a  living  in  severe  winter. 
Wood  was  even  a  serious  concern  to  such,  when  only  2s.  6d.  to 
3s.  a  load. 

None  of  the  stores  or  tradesmen's  shops  then  aimed  at  any 
rivalry  as  now.  There  were  no  glaring  allurements  at  windows, 
no  over-reaching  signs,  no  big  bulk  windows ;  they  were  content 
to  sell  things  at  honest  profits,  and  to  trust  to  an  earned  reputation 
for  their  share  of  business. 

It  was  the  Englishmen  from  Britain  who  brought  in  the  painted 
glare  and  display.  They  also  brought  in  the  use  of  open  shops 
at  night,  an  expensive  and  needless  service  ! — for  who  sells  more 
in  day  and  night,  where  all  are  competitors,  than  they  would  in 
one  day  if  all  were  closed  at  night  ? 

In  former  days  the  same  class  who  applied  diligently  in  busi- 
ness hours,  were  accustomed  to  close  their  shops  and  stores  at  an 
early  hour,  and  to  go  abroad  for  exercise  and  recreation,  or  to 
gardens,  &c.  All  was  done  on  foot,  for  chaises  and  horses  were 
few. 

The  candidates  for  the  Assembly,  usually  from  the  city,  kept 
open  houses  in  each  ward,  for  one  week ;  producing  much  ex- 
citement among  those  who  thought  more  of  the  regale  than  the 
public  weal. 

Physicians  in  that  day  were  moderate  in  their  charges,  although 
their  personal  labour  was  great.  They  had  to  make  all  their 
calls  on  foot,  none  thought  of  riding.  Drs.  Baylie  and  M'Knight, 
when  old,  were  the  first  who  are  remembered  as  riding  to  their 
patients.  Dr.  Atwood  is  remembered  as  the  first  physician  who 
had  the  hardihood  to  proclaim  himself  as  a  man  midwife ;  it  was 
deemed  a  scandal  to  some  delicate  ears,  and  Mrs.  Granny  Brown, 
with  her  fees  of  two  to  three  dollars,  was  still  deemed  the  choice 
of  all  who  thought  "women  should  be  modest!" 

"  Moving  day"  was,  as  now,  the  first  of  May,  from  time  im- 
memorial. 

They  held  no  "fairs,"  but  they  often  went  to  the  "  Philadel- 
phia Fairs,"  once  celebrated. 

At  the  New  Year  and  Christmas  festivals,  it  was  the  custom 
to  go  out  to  the  ice  on  Beekman's  and  such  like  swamps  to  shoot 
at  turkeys ;  every  one  paid  a  price  for  his  shot,  as  at  a  mark,  and 
if  he  hit  it  so  as  to  draw  blood,  it  was  his  for  a  New  Year  or 
Christmas  dinner.  A  fine  subject  this  for  Dr.  Laidlie's  preaching 
and  reformation ! 

At  funerals,  the  Dutch  gave  hot  wine  in  winter ;  and  in  sum- 
mer they  gave  wine-sangaree. 

S 


206  Manners  and  Customs. 

I  have  noticed  a  singular  custom  among  Dutch  families; — 
a  father  gives  a  bundle  of  goose  quilts  to  a  son,  telling  him  to 
give  one  to  each  of  his  male  posterity.  I  saw  one  in  the  posses- 
sion of  Mr.  James  Bogert,  which  had  a  scroll  appended,  saying, 
"this  quill,  given  by  Petrus  Byvanck  to  James  Bogert,  in  1789, 
was  a  present  in  1689,  from  his  grandfather  from  Holland. 

It  is  now  deemed  a  rule  of  high  life  in  New  York  that  ladies 
should  not  attend  funerals ;  it  was  not  always  so.  Having  been 
surprised  at  the  change,  and  not  being  aware  of  any  sufficient 
reason  why  females  should  have  an  exemption  from  personal 
attention  to  departed  friends,  from  which  their  male  relatives 
could  not,  I  have  been  curious  to  inquire  into  the  facts  in  the  case. 
I  find  that  females  among  the  Friends  attend  funerals,  and  also 
among  some  other  religious  communities. 

I  have  been  well  assured  that  before  the  revolution,  genteelest 
families  had  ladies  to  their  funerals,  and  especially  if  the  deceased 
was  a  female ;  on  such  occasions  "  burnt  wine"  was  handed 
about  in  tankards,  often  of  silver. 

On  one  occasion  the  case  of  the  wife  of  Daniel  Phoenix,  the  city 
treasurer,  all  the  pall-bearers  were  ladies ;  and  this  fact  occurred 
since  the  revolution. 

Many  aged  persons  have  spoken  to  me  of  the  former  delightful 
practice  of  famihes  sitting  out  on  their  "stoopes'^  in  the  shades  of 
the  evening,  and  there  saluting  the  passing  friends,  or  talking 
across  the  narrow  streets  with  neighbours.  It  was  one  of  the  grand 
links  of  union  in  the  Knickerbocker  social  compact.  It  endeared 
and  made  social  neighbours ;  made  intercourse  on  easy  terms ; 
it  was  only  to  say,  "  come  sit  down."  It  helped  the  young  to 
easy  introductions,  and  made  courtships  of  readier  attainment. 

I  give  some  facts  to  illustrate  the  above  remarks,  deduced  from 

the  family  of  B with  which  I  am  personally  acquainted.     It 

shows  primitive  Dutch  manners.  His  grandfather  died  at  the  age 
of  sixty -three  in  1782,  holding  the  office  of  alderman  eleven  years, 
and  once  chosen  mayor  and  declined.  Such  a  man,  in  easy  cir- 
cumstances in  life,  following  the  true  Dutch  ton,  had  all  his  family 
to  breakfast,  all  the  year  round,  at  day-light.  Before  the  break- 
fast he  universally  smoked  his  pipe.  His  family  always  dined  at 
twelve  exactly.  At  that  time  the  kettle  was  invariably  set  on  the 
fire  for  tea,  of  Bohea,  which  was  always  as  punctually  furnished 
at  three  o'clock.  Then  the  old  people  went  abroad  on  purpose 
to  visit  relatives,  changing  the  families  each  night  in  succession, 
over  and  over  again  all  the  year  round.  The  regale  at  every 
such  house  was  expected  as  matter  of  course,  to  be  chocolate 
supper  and  soft  waffles. 

Afterwards,  when  green  tea  came  in  as  a  new  luxury,  loaf 
sugar  also  came  with  it ;  this  was  broken  in  large  lumps  and  laid 
severally  by  each  cup,  and  was  nibbled  or  bitten  as  needed  ! 

The  family  before  referred  to  actually  continued  the  practice 


Manners  and  Customs.  207 

till  as  late  as  seventeen  years  ago,  with  a  steady  determination 
in  the  patriarch  to  resist  the  modern  innovation  of  dissolved  sugar 
while  he  lived. 

Besides  the  foregoing  facts,  I  have  had  them  abundantly  con- 
firmed by  others. 

While  they  occupied  the  stoopes  in  the  evening,  you  could  see 
every  here  and  there  an  old  Knickerbocker  with  his  long  pipe, 
fuming  away  his  cares,  and  ready  on  any  occasion  to  offer  another 
for  the  use  of  any  passing  friend  who  would  sit  down  and  join 
him.  The  ideal  picture  has  every  lineament  of  contented  comfort 
and  cheerful  repose.  Something  much  more  composed  and  hap- 
py than  the  bustling  anxiety  of  "  over  business"  in  the  moderns. 

The  cleanliness  of  Dutch  housewifery  was  always  extreme ; 
every  thing  had  to  submit  to  scrubbing  and  scouring ;  dirt  in  no 
form  could  be  endured  by  them :  and  dear  as  water  was  in  the 
city,  where  it  was  generally  sold,  still  it  was  in  perpetual  requisi- 
tion. It  was  their  honest  pride  to  see  a  well-furnished  dresser, 
showmg  copper  and  pewter  in  shining  splendour,  as  if  for  orna- 
ment rather  than  for  use.  In  all  this  they  widely  differed  from 
the  Germans,  a  people  with  whom  they  have  been  erroneously 
and  often  confounded.  Roost  fowls  and  ducks  are  not  more  dif- 
ferent.    As  water  draws  one  it  repels  the  other. 

It  was  common  in  families  then  to  cleanse  their  own  chimneys 
without  the  aid  of  hired  sweeps ;  and  all  tradesmen,  &c.,  were 
accustomed  to  saw  their  own  fuel.  No  man  in  middle  circum- 
stances of  life  ever  scrupled  to  carry  home  his  one  cwt.  of  meal 
from  the  market ;  it  would  have  been  his  shame  to  have  avoided 
it. 

A  greater  change  in  the  state  of  society  cannot  be  named  than 
that  of  hired  persons.  Hired  women,  from  being  formerly  lowly 
in  dress,  wearing  short  gowns  of  green  baize  and  petticoats  of 
linsey-woolsey,  and  receiving  but  half  a  dollar  a  week,  have, 
since  they  have  trebled  that  wages,  got  to  all  the  pride  and 
vanity  of"  showing  out"  to  strangers  as  well  drest  ladies.  The 
cheapness  of  foreign  finery  gives  them  the  ready  means  of  wast- 
ing all  their  wages  in  decorations.     So  true  it  is  that, 

"  Excess,  the  scrofulous  and  itchy  plague, 
Taints  downward,  all  the  ^duated  scale !" 

The  Quarterly  Review  has  preserved  one  fact  of  menial  im- 
pudence, in  the  case  of  the  New  York  girl  telling  her  mistress, 
before  her  guests,  that  "  the  more  you  ring  the  more  I  won't 
come !" 

General  Lafayette,  too,  left  us  a  compliment  of  dubious  import 
on  his  late  formal  entre  at  New  York,  when  seeing  such  crowds 
of  well-dressed  people,  and  no  remains  of  such  as  he  had  seen  in 
the  period  of  the  revolution — a  people  whose  dress  was  adapted 
to  their  condition — he  exclaimed,  "  but  where  is  the  people?  " 

p2 


208  Manners  and  Customs. 

emphatically  meaning,  where  is  the  useful  class  of  citizens,  "  the 
hewers  of  wood  and  drawers  of  water?" 

"  All  are  infected  v/ith  the  manners  and  the  modes 
It  knew  not  once." 

Before  the  revolution,  every  man  who  worked  in  any  employ 
always  wore  his  leathern  apron  before  him,  never  took  it  off  to 
go  in  the  street,  and  never  had  on  a  long  coat. 

We  are  glad  to  witness  the  rise  of  new  feelings  among  the 
Dutch  descendants,  tending  to  cherish,  by  anniversary  remem- 
brances, the  love  and  reverence  they  owe  their  sires.  For  this 
object,  as  they  have  no  "  landing  day,"  they  resort  to  their  tute- 
lary protector,  Saint  Nicholas:  on  such  occasions  decorating 
themselves  or  hall  with  orange  coloured  ribbons,  and  inscribing 
"  Oranje  Boven,"  and  garnishing  their  table  with  "Malck  and 
Suppawn,"  with  rullities,  and  their  hands  with  long  stemmed 
pipes. 

We  are  sorry  we  do  not  know  the  history  better  than  we  do, 
of  a  saint  so  popular  as  he  is,  with  only  his  name  of  St.  Claes  to 
help  him.  He  seems  however  to  be  the  most  merry  and  jocose 
in  all  the  calendar.  The  boys  all  welcome  him  as  "the  bountiful 
Saint  Nick,"  and  as  "  De  Patroon  Van  Kindervreugd ;"  i.  e.  the 
patron  of  children's  joy. 

"  A  right  jolly  old  elf,  with  a  little  round  belly, 
Which  shakes  when  he  laughs,  like  a  bowl  of  jelly." 

All  we  know  from  Knickerbocker,  is,  that  the  figure  of 
Hudson's  Guede  Vrouw  represented  him  as  attired  "  in  a  low 
brimmed  hat,  a  large  pair  of  Flemish  trunk  hose,  and  a  very  long 
pipe." 

In  1765,  the  best  families  in  New  York  entered  into  certain 
sumptuary  laws  to  restrain  the  usual  expenses  and  pomp  of 
funerals. 

General  Manners  of  the  Americans.  Lafayette,  in  his  letter 
to  his  wife,  immediately  after  his  arrival  in  our  country  (at  George- 
town, S.  C.  in  1777),  says,  "  The  country  and  its  inhabitants  are 
as  agreeable  as  my  enthusiasm  had  painted  them.  Simphcity  of 
manners,  kindness,  love  of  country  and  of  liberty,  and  a  delightful 
equality  every  where  prevail.  The  wealthiest  man  and  the 
poorest  are  on  a  level,  and  although  there  are  some  large  fortunes, 
I  challenge  any  one  to  discover  the  shghtest  difference  between 
the  manners  of  these  two  classes  respectively  towards  each  other. 
Every  thing  here  is  very  much  after  the  English  fashion,  except 
that  there  is  more  simplicity,  equality,  cordiality,  and  courtesy 
than  in  England.  The  American  women  are  very  pretty,  simple 
in  their  manners,  and  exhibit  a  neatness,  which  is  every  where 
cultivated  even  more  studiously  than  in  England.  What  most 
charms  me,  is,  that  all  the  citizens  are  brethren.     In  America 


Manners  and  Customs.  209 

there  are  no  poor,  nor  even  what  we  call  peasantry.  Each  indi- 
vidual has  his  own  honest  property,  and  the  same  rights  as  the 
most  wealthy  landed  proprietor.  The  very  inns  are  very  differ- 
ent from  those  of  Europe ;  the  host  and  hostess  sit  at  table  with 
you,  and  do  the  honours  of  a  comfortable  meal ;  and  on  going 
away,  you  pay  your  bill  without  higgling."  [The  whole  picture 
is  picturesque  and  pleasing,  and  honourable  to  the  memory  of  our 
fathers  and  their  day.] 

About  the  year  1793-4,  there  was  an  extravagant,  impolitic 
affection  for  France,  and  hostility  to  every  thing  British,  in  our 
country  generally.  It  required  all  the  prudence  of  Washington 
and  his  cabinet,  to  stem  the  torrent  of  passion  which  flowed  in 
favour  of  France,  to  the  prejudice  of  our  neutrality.  Now  the 
event  is  passed,  we  may  thus  soberly  speak  of  its  character.  It 
may  be  remembered  with  what  joy  the  people  ran  to  the  wharves 
at  the  report  of  cannon,  to  see  arrivals  of  the  Frenchmen's  prizes 
— we  were  so  pleased  to  see  the  British  union  down !  When 
French  mariners  or  officers  were  met  in  the  street,  they  would 
be  saluted  by  the  boys,  with  "  Vive  la  Republique."'  The  streets 
too,  at  night,  resounded  with  French  national  airs,  sung  by  our- 
selves— such  as  "  Allons,  enfans  de  la  patrie."  "  Dansons  le  Car- 
magnole," &c.  Many,  too,  put  on  the  national  cockade  of  red, 
blue,  and  white.  Liberty  poles,  surmounted  with  red  liberty 
caps,  were  often  set  up.  We  remember  the  French  frigate 
PAmbuscade,  as  making  her  stay  in  New  York  harbour,  and  at 
night,  the  officers  and  men  in  launches  would  go  ud  and  down 
the  harbour,  with  bands  of  music,  singing  the  national  airs.  At 
the  same  time,  the  Boston  frigate  (British),  lay  off  the  Hook,  and 
sent  in  her  challenge,  for  the  PAmbuscade  to  come  out  and  fight 
her.  It  was  accepted ;  and  many  citizens  went  out  in  pilot  boats, 
and  saw  the  action  and  drawn  battle.     Then  appeared  the  song, 

"Brave  Boston  from  Halifax  sailed, 
With  Courtney,  commander,  who  never  did  fear, 
Nor  returned  from  a  fight,  vt^ith  a  flee  in  his  ear — 
As  they  steered  for  the  Hook,  each  swore  by  his  book, 
No  prayers  should  their  vengeance  retard, 
They  would  plunder  and  burn,  they  would  never  return. 
Unattended  by  Captain  Bompard !"  &c. 

All  the  facts  of  that  day,  as  we  now  contemplate  them,  seem 
something  like  the  remembrance  of  our  dreams.  It  was  a  time, 
when  the  people  seemed  maddened  by  impulse  of  feeling — such 
as  we  hope  never  to  see  aroused  again  for  any  foreigners.  They 
were  fine  feelings  to  ensure  the  success  of  a  war  actually  begun, 
but  bad  affections  for  any  nation,  whose  interests  lay  in  peace  and 
neutrality.  Washington  bravely  submitted  to  become  unpopular, 
to  allay  and  repress  this  dangerous  foreign  attachment. 

About  this  time,  almost  every  vessel  arriving,  brought  fugitives 
from  the  infuriated  negroes  in  Cape'Frant^ois,  Port  au  Prince,  &c. ; 
27  s2 


210  Manners  and  Customs. 

or  from  the  sharp  axe  of  the  guillotine  of  France,  dripping  night 
and  day  with  the  blood  of  Frenchmen,  shed  in  the  name  of  liberty 
and  the  sacred  rights  of  man.  The  city  thronged  with  French 
people  of  all  shades  from  the  French  colonies,  and  from  old 
France,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  one  great  hotel  or  place  of 
refuge  for  strangers  hastily  collected  from  a  raging  tempest.  The 
characteristic  old  school  simplicity  of  the  citizens,  in  manners, 
habits  of  dress,  and  modes  of  thinking  and  speaking  on  the  sub- 
jects of  civil  rights  and  forms  of  government,  by  the  square  and 
rule  of  reason  and  argument,  began  to  be  broken  in  upon,  by  the 
new  enthusiasm  of  la  mode  Frangaise.  French  boarding  houses, 
marked  Pension  Frangaise,  multiplied  in  every  street.  Before 
such  houses,  groups  of  both  sexes  were  to  be  seen  seated  on 
chairs,  embarrassing  the  street  walkers,  and  the  French  in  full 
converse  ;  their  tongues,  shoulders,  and  hands  in  perpetual  motion 
— "  all  talkers  and  no  hearers.^'  Mestizo  ladies,  with  complexions 
of  the  palest  marble,  jet  black  hair,  and  eyes  of  the  gazelle,  with 
persons  of  exquisite  symmetry,  were  to  be  seen  escorted  along 
the  pavements  by  white  French  gentlemen,  both  dressed  in  the 
richest  materials  of  West  India  cut  and  fashion ;  also  coal  black 
negresses  in  flowing  white  dresses,  and  turbans  of  "muchoir  de 
madras,"  exhibiting  their  ivory  dominos,  in  social  walk  with 
white,  or  mixed  Creoles ;  altogether  forming  a  lively  contrast  to 
our  native  Americans,  and  the  emigres  from  old  France,  most  of 
whom  still  kept  to  the  stately  old  Bourbon  style  of  dress  and 
manner;  wearing  the  head  full  powdered  a  la  Louis,  golden 
headed  cane,  silver-set  buckles,  and  cocked  hat,  seemingly  to  ex- 
press en  silence,  their  profound  contempt  for  the  pantaloons,  silk 
shoestrings,  and  "  Brutus  crop."  The  French  West  Indians,  as 
well  as  many  of  ourselves,  wore  the  pantaloons  with,  feet  to  them, 
let  into  the  shoes.  Their  ladies  dressed  generally  en  chemise — a 
loose  flowing  exterior,  which  strikingly  aided  to  expose  their  supe- 
rior figures  and  forms.  Such  chemise  dresses,  our  young  ladies 
soon  learned  to  adopt  and  follow.  They  made  then  no  mistakes 
in  imagining  the  real  symmetry  of  our  belles. 

It  was  wonderful  how  little  these  French  people  mixed  in  our 
society.  They  formed  but  few  alliances  with  us;  and  finally  dis- 
appeared like  birds  of  passage,  going  we  knew  not  where.  While 
they  remained,  they  gave  an  air  of  French  to  every  thing.  They 
introduced  us  to  the  use  of  their  confectionaries  and  bon-bons — 
jewelry  and  trinkets — dancing  and  music.  In  music  they  excelled. 
Their  boarding  houses,  daily  and  nightly,  resounded  with  the 
violin  and  clarionet,  and  from  their  example,  we  adopted  cotil- 
lions, and  laid  aside  aU  former  British  modes  of  dancing.  The 
Frenchmen  were  great  promenaders,  being  much  abroad  in  the 
streets  as  walkers,  and  much  in  the  country  as  shooters — they 
shot  and  ate  all  manner  of  birds,  practically  thinking  that  all  de- 
pended upon  the  cooking.     They  were  great  shots  upon  the  wing 


Manners  and  Customs.  211 

— indeed,  they  learned  us  so  to  shoot  with  their  double-barrelled 
guns,  expensively  finished.  These  were  new  to  us,  and  we 
adopted  them.  Before  then,  we  were  more  of  fishers  than  shooters, 
or  sought  our  bird  game  on  the  water.  From  them  we  first  be- 
gan to  cultivate  the  study  of  French,  and  the  use  of  the  piano — 
many  of  them  serving  as  our  instructors.  From  them  we  learned 
to  adopt  gold  watches  and  gilded  framed  looking-glasses  and  pic- 
tures. They  always  dressed  with  great  freshness  and  cleanliness ; 
but  their  housekeeping  was  with  proverbial  neglect  and  slovenli- 
ness. They  had  no  aim  at  nice  floors,  burnished  furniture,  or 
cleanly  kitchens.  They  had  no  love  to  clean  water,  but  on  their 
persons ;  and  from  that  cause,  they  first  introduced  us  to  the  use 
and  support  of  public  baths.  They  taught  us  also  to  much  change 
our  table  diet — to  use  soups,  sallads,  sweet  oil,  tomatoes,  ragouts, 
fricasees,  and  perfumes.  They  had  bread  bakers,  for  "  French 
bread"  of  their  own,  leavened  in  their  own  peculiar  way,  and 
French  restaurants  to  furnish  ready  cooked  dishes,  fortheir  dinners. 
From  them  we  learned  the  use  of  matresses  and  high  bedsteads, 
the  love  of  musical  entertainments  and  orchstera  singing.  In  a 
word,  they  inoculated  us  with  Frenchified  tastes  and  affections. 

Courtship  and  Marriage.  A  friend  having  sent  us  recollec- 
tions of  courtship  and  marriage  as  witnessed  in  colonial  times,  say 
some  ten  or  twelve  years  preceding  the  war  of  the  revolution,  we 
find  it  so  confirmative  of  sundry  facts,  scattered  in  these  pages, 
that  we  feel  tempted  to  give  the  article  entire. 

It  was  originally  written  in  1828,  to  portray  to  a  young  niece, 
(whom  we  shall  call  Miss  Betsey)  what  an  old  bachelor  gentle- 
man of  eighty,  had  witnessed  of  the  courtship  and  wedding  of  his 
brother,  the  grandfather  of  the  young  lady  addressed. 

He  begins  by  saying, — 

My  dear  little  Bess : — 

Your  intended  marriage  has  crowded  my  old  heart  with  many 
recollections  of  former  times ;  and  I  could  not  resist  the  tempta- 
tion of  proving  that  I  am  yet  far  from  the  useless  days  of  second 
childhood,  by  giving  you  some  account  of  your  grandfather's 
courtship  and  wedding,  so  that  you  may  have  the  pleasure  of 
contrasting  it  with  your  own.  At  same  time  I  wish  to  portray, 
incidentally,  so  far  as  the  subject  may  admit,  the  kind  of  people 
we  generally  were  ;  and  how  we  did  and  lived,  when  we  were 
the  liege  subjects  of  his  majesty  George  III. 

Your  grandfather  had,  as  the  saying  is,  been. '  set  vp^  in  busi- 
ness, in  a  small  shop  slenderly  stocked  with  pins,  tape,  broaches, 
buttons,  &c.,  about  one  year.  He  religiously  took  down  his 
shutters,  opened  his  door,  swept  out  his  warehouse,  and  dusted 
his  goods  himself,  every  morning,  by  the  time  grey  dawn  broke  ; 
for  those  were  the  days  when  men  grew  rich  by  rising  early  and 
doing  their  own  business,  not  by  sleeping  as  they  do  now,  until 
breakfast,  leaving  their  concerns  in  the  hands  of  thoughtless  boys. 


21^  Manners  and  Customs. 

No  indeed  !  When  I  was  a  young  man,  we  had  no  capital  but 
our  reputation  for  industry  and  punctuality.  Honesty  and  labour 
were  as  much  in  fashion  then,  as  dandy  coats  and  starched  cravats 
are  now-a-days ;  and  no  sensible  matron  would  allow  her  daugh- 
ter to  be  courted  by  a  young  man  who  was  not  his  own  servant. 
To  do  your  grandfather  justice,  he  was  ever  considered  a  very 
thrifty  young  man  :  and  as  he  had  been  very  diligent  in  business, 
and  was  fully  twenty-five  years  old,  he  did  not  think  it  being  very 
dissipated  for  him  to  engage  in  a  sleighing  party  at  North  End. 
This  opinion  was  strengthened  when  he  learnt  that  the  whole 
expense  would  not  exceed  a  dollar. 

The  hour  for  starting,  one  p.  m.,  was  rapidly  approaching; 
when  your  grandfather  sallied  forth,  equipped,  to  meet  his  friends 
at  the  appointed  rendezvous.  His  second  best  cocked  hat  was 
tied  under  his  chin  by  a  blue  cotton  handkerchief,  while  his  young 
queue  protruded  from  behind,  as  stiff  as  if  it  had  been  griped  by  the 
icy  fingers  of  Jack  Frost  himself,  instead  of  being  strictly  enveloped 
in  eel  skin.  An  extensive  camlet  cloak,  with  a  minute  cape,  six 
inches  in  breadth,  wrapped  up  his  body,  and  covered  his  snuff"- 
coloured  coat  and  small  clothes,  and  stockings,  drawn  over  shoes, 
and  all,  to  keep  out  the  snow.  Yarn  mittens  protected  his  hands, 
and  a  woollen  tippet  was  warmly  tucked  around  his  neck.  People, 
formerly,  Betsey,  dressed  in  unison  with  the  weather  and  the 
occasion. 

The  sleigh,  the  only  double  one  then  in  town,  a  vast  collection 
of  unpainted  boards,  capable  of  containing  a  moderate  load  of 
thirty,  drawn  by  a  variegated  team  of  six  horses,  and  driven  by 
black  Caesar,  of  immortal  memory  as  charioteer,  waiter,  and  fid- 
dler, was  at  the  door.  Immediately  the  party,  consisting  of  gen- 
tlemen, who  so  far  as  dress  was  concerned  were  facsimiles  of 
your  progenitor,  and  ladies  enveloped  in  linsey-woolsey  cardinals, 
the  hoods  of  which  were  of  such  ample  dimensions  that  their 
heads  looked  like  so  many  beer  casks,  seated  themselves  in  the 
vehicle.  And  away  they  went,  animated  by  the  jingle  of  one  or 
two  cow-bells,  to  take  a  cup  of  hot  tea  and  have  a  dance  at 

Madame  T 's,  at  H .     Csesar,  on  their  arrival,  tuned 

his  three-stringed  fiddle  ;  the  gentlemen  appeared  in  their  square- 
toed  pumps,  and  the  ladies  shook  off"  their  pat  lens  to  display  their 
little  feet  in  peak-toed  high-heeled  slippers.  And  at  it  they  went, 
dancing  and  skipping  for  dear  life,  until  8  o'clock,  when  they 
hurried  to  town,  for  to  be  abroad  after  9  o'clock  on  common 
occasions,  was  then  a  sure  sign  of  moral  depravity. 

But  Bess,  I  have  not  spun  out  this  long  story  about  the  sleigh 
ride  for  nothing  : — The  pith  of  the  matter  is  to  come  now.  On 
this  eventful  eve,  your  grandfather  was  shot  indeed  by  Dan  Cupid, 

or  rather  by  Prudence  B 's  eyes.     He  came  home  sighing 

and  simpering,  and  looking  very  much  like  a  fool.  .  He  dreamed 
all  night  of  that  taper  arm  so  closely  confined  in  tight  brown  silk, 


Manners  and  Customs.  213    ' 

of  that  slender  waist,  with  the  broidered  stomacher — and  oh  ! 
more  than  all,  of  that  sweet  *  blue  een,*  and  that  auburn  ringlet, 
which  the  gypsey  had  allowed  to  escape  unpowdered.  The  next 
day  he  went  about  sighing  like  a  blacksmith's  bellows.  And  Sun- 
day after  Sunday,  he  travelled  down  to  the  North  church,  rigged 
out  in  his  best  attire,  with  his  cornelian  broach,  paste  buckles,  lace 
frill-worked  cravat  and  all,  to  get  a  peep  at  the  blooming  Pru- 
dence.    And,  verily,  I   fear  that   her  sylph-like  form  obtained 

more  of  John's  attention  than.  Dr.  B 's  sermon.     Thus  he 

went  on,  until  he  thought  his  circumstances  would  allow  him  to 
offer  his  heart  and  hand  to  the  fair  damsel. 

Now  Betsey,  I  suppose  you  are  all  on  tiptoe  expecting  to  hear 
of  a  moonlight  walk,  a  stolen  kiss,  a  stammered  confession  and  a 
blushing  answer.  But  you  will  be  disappointed.  Love  had  a 
much  greater  sense  of  propriety  in  those  days.  His  votaries  then 
had  to.  deal  with  rigid  old  fathers  and  prudential  mothers  instead 
of  thoughtless  girls.  Your  grandfather  set  himself  down  one  morn- 
ing at  his  desk,  mending  his  pen,  spread  out  a  broad  sheet  of 
paper,  and  after  various  trials,  indited  in  a  hand  like  copper-plate 
an  humble  letter  to  the  parent  of  his  beloved  Prudence,  stating 
the  amount  of  his  property,  his  yearly  profits,  &c.,  and  requesting 
permission  to  pay  his  addresses  to  his  daughter.  John  was,  as  I 
have  already  said,  esteemed  a  very  prudent  young  man,  so  that 

Mr.  B felt  no  hesitation  in  returning  an  affirmative  answer, 

and  probably  moreover  he  chuckled  a  little  at  th6  idea  that  Pru- 
dence was  to  make  out  so  well. 

Fortune  had  smiled  kindly  on  brother  Jack's  love  thus  far,  and 
now  was  coming  the  trying,  interesting  hour  when  he  was  to 
make  his  first  official  visit.  He  shut  up  his  shop  full  five  minutes 
before  dark.  He  swallowed  his  tea  in  such  haste  as  almost  to 
excoriate  his  tongue.  His  cravat  was  tied  and  re-tied  twenty 
times,  his  hair  as  often  touched  with  pomatum  and  powder ;  and 
his  three  cornered  scraper  was  sleeked  down  like  a  well  curried 
pony.  In  a  word,  he  spent  more  time  at  his  toilet  on  that 
eventful  eve,  than  during  his  whole  life  previous.  At  last  he 
started  for  the  house  of  his  fair  charmer.  Thrice  he  essayed  to 
knock,  and  thrice  he  essayed  in  vain.  I  verily  believe  he  would 
have  spent  half  the  night  in  mustering  up  the  requisite  courage 
for  a  gentle  love-tap,  had  I  not  helped  his  modesty  with  a  thun- 
dering jerk  of  the  knocker,  and  then  run  away  and  left  him  to 
answer  for  himself. 

John  was  ushered  up  stairs  into  a  fearful  circle  to  begin  his 
courtship.  When  the  door  of  the  parlour  was  opened,  one  side 
of  the  fireplace  displayed  a  bevy  of  Prudence's  maiden  aunts, 
bristling  in  all  the  frigidity  of  single  blessedness,  knitting  most 
vehemently,  and  casting,  every  time  a  new  roiv  was  to  be  begun, 
sharp  and  scrutinizing  glances  at  the  young  spark,  over  their 
round  eyed  spectacles.     On  the  other  side  was  Mr.  B , 


214  Manners  and  Customs. 

stretched  at  his  ease  in  an  arm-chair,  in  a  black  cap  instead  of  his 
wig,  wrapped  in  a  blue  gown,  with  his  breeches  unbuttoned  at 

his  knees,  quietly  smoking  his  pipe.     Mrs.  B ,  in  her  chintz 

dress  and  mob  cap,  was  at  his  side,  engaged  in  making  patch- 
work ;  whilst  the  lovely  Prudence  sat  quite  erect  by  her  mamma, 
with  her  pincushion  and  house-wife  dangling  from  her  waist,  and 
her  eye  cast  down,  diligently  pricking  her  fingers  instead  of  her 
sampler.  Courting  was  a  sober  business  in  old  times.  Your 
grandfather  seated  himself  much  nearer  the  spinsters,  than  his 
deary.  He  showed  his  affection  very  properly  by  keeping  at  a  re- 
spectful distance.  He  passed  the  evening  in  talking  politics  and 
the  scarcity  of  money,  with  his  future  father-in-laAV,  in  assisting 
his  future  mother-in-law  to  arrange  her  party-coloured  squares  ; 
in  picking  up  the  balls  of  yarn,  as  they  were  respectively  dropped 
by  the  maiden  aunts  ;  now  and  then  casting  sly  sheep's  eyes  at 
Prudence,  at  every  instance  of  which  familiarity  the  aforesaid 
maiden  ladies  dropped  a  stitch  !  As  soon  as  the  bell  rung  nine, 
he  gave  one  tender  squint  at  your  grandmother,  and  took  his 
leave. 

This  was  the  old-fashioned  way  of  paying  attentions ;  and  this 
your  grandfather  performed  every  night,  excepting  when  he  was 
allowed  to  escort  Miss  Prudence  to  some  neighbouring  tea-party. 
Betsey,  are  you  not  shocked  at  the  degeneracy  of  modern  times  ? 
Only  think,  that  now  young  ladies  and  gentleman,  as  soon  as 
they  are  engaged,  and  this  often  before  they  are  out  of  their  teens, 
are  permitted  to  walk  all  alone  by  moonlight,  and  have  a  parlour 
to  themselves  a  whole  winter's  evening. 

Alack-a-day,  as  your  great  aunt  Thankful  says,  what  is  the 
world  coming  to  ! 

Matters  proceeded  in  this  quiet  and  proper  way  for  some  time, 
until  the  final  question  was  put,  and  the  night  of  the  wedding 
appointed.  Ample  time,  however,  was  allowed  for  the  consulta- 
tions of  the  three  aunts, — the  seventy  times  seven  examinations 
of  the  same  articles,  before  a  vote  for  their  purchase  could  be 
obtained.  John  was  obliged  to  neglect  his  business  sadly,  and  to 
ambulate  from  one  end  of  the  town  to  the  other,  with  the  spin- 
sters, Mrs.  B ,  and  Prudence,  to  "look  at"  andirons,  can- 
dlesticks, pots,  kettles,  &c.  But  Betsey,  as  I  fear  the  same  endless 
preparation  is  as  necessary  to  marriage  now,  as  it  was  then,  I 
will  avoid  the  charge  of  garrulity,  and  hasten  on  with  my  story. 

It  was  a  clear,  cold  December  night,  the  night  of  the  wedding. 

The  best  parlour  in  Mr.  B 's  mansion  reflected  from  its 

well  waxed  oaken  pannel  work,  the  light  of  a  dozen  sconces.  A 
glowing  fire  blazed  in  the  spacious  chimney,  the  jambs  of  which 
were  ornamented  with  scripture  stories  of  Samson,  Daniel, 
Joseph,  and  the  prodigal  son,  represented  in  sky  blue  on  squares 
of  china,  and  made  more  engaging  by  the  judicious  introduction 
of  the  costume  of  the  eighteenth  century.     The  vast  looking-glass 


Manners  and  Customs.  215 

duly  set  in  real  mahogany  frame,  gave  such  likeness  of  the  blaze 
that  you  would  hesitate  whether  to  warm  yourself  by  the  real 
or  imagined  fire.  The  solid  leather  bottomed  chairs  flanked  the 
equally  substantial  iron-footed  tables,  like  so  many  sturdy  old 
patriots.  In  short,  in  every  part,  what  was  wanting  in  grace  and 
beauty,  was  supplied  wiih  weight  and  comfort. 

Presently  the  company  began  to  assemble.  There  were  then 
no  hackney  coaches.  Ladies  and  gentleman  both  made  use  of 
nature's  carriages;  and  cousin  after  cousin,  belle  after  belle, 

came  trotting  along  to  Mr.  B 's  in  their  pattens  with  as 

much  glee  as  if  they  had  been  drawn  by  four  royal  grays.  All 
at  last  were  collected,  and  waiting  only  for  the  parson.     Old  Mr. 

B in  his  full  bottomed  wig,  velvet  coat  and  breeches,  gold 

buckles,  waistcoat  reaching  to  his  knees,  conversed  with  his  bro- 
ther merchants  on  the  usual  topics.     Mrs.  B in  her  plain 

brocade  and  snowy  cap,  only  rivalled  by  her  neck  handker- 
chief, was  seen  ever  and  anon  to  wipe  away  a  truant  tear.  The 
maiden  aunts,  stiff  as  pokers,  were  giving  to  sister  spinsters  most 
minute  accounts  of  Prudence's  domestic  arrangements,  and  were 
particularly  eloquent  in  relating  the  many  w^onderful  bargains 
they  had  made  in  conducting  the  purchases.  The  young  men  in 
their  Sunday  suits,  throwing  off"  clouds  of  flour  every  time  they 
moved  their  heads,  stood  dangling  their  steel  watch-chains,  and 
making  formal  speeches  to  the  young  ladies  who  sat,  with  their 
cushioned  head  gear,  bolt  upright,  flirting  their  two  foot-fans, 
and  blushing  and  simpering  with  maiden  propriety.     At  last  Dr. 

B appeared,  full  dressed  with  gown,  cassock  and  bands, — 

with  a  wig,  that  seemed  to  consist  of  a  whole  unsheared  sheep- 
skin. For  a  parson  to  have  attended  a  wedding  in  a  simple 
black  coat  and  pantaloons,  sixty  years  ago,  Betsey,  would  have 
been  deemed  rank  heresy,  indeed  1  have  been  inclined  to  think 
that  half  the  power  of  ministers  in  my  day  lay  in  their  wigs. 

The  presence  of  the  divine  was  a  signal  for  the  appearance  of 
Caesar,  in  a  green  coat  beautifully  studded  with  steel  buttons 

(probably  the  courting  coat  of  Mr.  B ,  for  the  coats  lasted 

out  generations,  in  old  times),  bright  red  breeches,  blue  stockings, 
and  yellow  vest ;  followed  by  Cleopatra  and  her  flaming  copper- 
plate gown,  and  hoop  to  imitate  the  ladies.  The  former  sustained 
a  mahogany  tray,  shining  like  his  face,  sprinkled  all  over  with 
those  very  little  teacups,  which  I  believe  made  their  last  appear- 
ance in  your  baby-house,  Betsey  ;  the  latter  bore  a  twin  waiter 
loaded  with  nut-cakes,  symbols,  and  bread  and  butter.  This 
ebony  procession  appeared  and  disappeared  three  several  times ; 
and  then  the  bridal  party  entered.  First  came  two  pretty  maidens, 
who  longed  I  dare  say  to  be  in  Prudence's  shoes,  in  white  dimity, 
with  the  eternal  upheaved  top-knots,  escorted  by  another  gentle- 
man and  myself,  in  blazing  scarlet.  Next  came  the  happy  pair ; 
Prudence  slightly  suflused,  with  her  eyes  bent  towards  the  ground 


216  Manners  and  Customs. 

—not  her  head,  for  loaded  as  it  was,  the  slightest  inclination  of  it 
might  have  produced  a  motion  somewhat  like  that  of  a  top-heavy 
cornstalk  witch ;  John,  moving  and  looking  as  awkward  as  a  boy 
whose  free  limbs  have  been  shaken  for  the  first  time  into  jacket 
and  trowsers.  But  stop,  I  am  too  general  It  will  never  do,  not 
to  be  particular  on  such  a  subject  as  wedding  dresses. 

To  begin  with  the  lady  ;  her  locks  were  strained  upward  over 
an  immense  cushion,  that  sat  like  an  incubus  on  her  head,  and 
then  plastered  over  with  pomatum,  and  sprinkled  with  a  shower 
of  white  powder.  The  height  of  this  tower  was  somewhat  over 
a  foot.  One  single  white  rose  bud  lay  on  its  top  like  an  eagle  on 
a  haystack.  Over  her  neck  and  bosom  was  folded  a  lace  hand- 
kerchief, fastened  in  front  by  a  bosom  pin  rather  larger  than  a 
dollar,  consisting  of  your  grandfather's  miniature  set  in  virgin 
gold.  Her  airy  form  was  braced  up  in  a  satin  dress,  the  sleeves 
tight  as  the  natural  skin  of  the  arm,  with  a  waist  formed  by  a 
bodice,  worn  outside,  from  whence  the  skirt  flowed  off",  and  was 
distended  at  the  ankles  by  an  ample  hoop.  Shoes  of  white  kid, 
with  peaked  toes,  and  heels  of  two  or  three  inches  elevation, 
inclosed  her  feet  and  glittered  with  spangles,  as  her  little  pedal 
members  peeped  curiously  out.  There,  Betsey,  a  London  milli- 
ner could  not  have  described  a  bridal  garment  more  accurately. 
Now  for  the  swain.  Your  grandfather  slept  in  an  arm-chair  the 
night  before  his  wedding,  lest  the  arrangements  of  his  peri- 
cranium, which  had  been  under  the  hands  of  a  barber  the  whole 
afternoon,  should  be  disturbed.  His  hair  was  sleeked  back  and 
plentifully  befloured,  while  his  queue  projected  like  the  handle 
of  a  skillet.  His  coat  was  of  a  sky  blue  silk,  lined  with  yellow ; 
his  long  vest  of  white  satin,  embrodiered  with  gold  lace ;  his 
breeches  of  the  same  material,  and  tied  at  the  knee  with  pink 
ribbon.  White  silk  stockings  and  pumps,  with  locks  and  ties  of 
the  same  hue,  completed  the  habiliments  of  his  nether  limbs. 
Lace  ruffles  clustered  around  his  wrists,  a  portentous  frill  worked 
in  correspondence,  and  beanng  the  miniature  of  his  beloved, 
finished  his  truly  genteel  appearance. 

The  party  soon  arranged  themselves,  and  Dr.  B ,  with  a 

dreadful  solemn  air,  united  the  lovers  in  the  holy  bonds  of  matri- 
mony.    The  three  maiden  aunts,  probably  reflecting  upon  their 

lonely  state,  snivelled  audibly.  Mrs.  B put  a  handkerchief 

to  her  eyes,  and  Mr.  B gave  a  loud  hem  as  if  to  clear  his 

throat.  After  the  ceremony,  the  parson  made  a  long  and  serious 
address  to  the  young  couple,  during  which  the  old  ladies  looked 
meaningly  at  the  young  damsels,  who  pertly  pouted  with  their 
pretty  hp?,  and  played  with  their  pretty  feet  rather  impatiently 
upon  the  floor ;  whilst  the  young  beaux  hunched  each  other  with 
their  elbows  and  grinned  slightly.  The  speech  over,  and  when 
all  the  company  had  saluted  the  bride  with  loud  and  hearty 
kisses,  which  sounded  like  the  irregular  discharge  of  small  arms, 


Manners  and  Customs.  217 

Caesar's  fiddle  began  to  speak  audibly.  The  new  married  pair 
slided  through  a  minuet,  and  then  the  whole  company  danced 
and  romped  until  supper  was  announced. 

And  such  a  supper  !  I  might  as  well  attempt  to  give  an  idea 
of  the  flavour  of  venison  on  paper,  as  of  this  supper.  At  each 
end  of  the  table,  attended  by  a  pair  of  ducks  lay  a  glorious  turkey, 
flat  on  his  back  as  if  inviting  dissection.  Next  came  two  luscious 
hams,  with  graceful  overshadowing  box ;  then  sausages,  garnished 
with  fried  apples ;  then  smoked  two  tender  surloins  of  beef;  then 
the  golden  salmon  ;  in  short,  the  table  groaned  under  a  load  of 
flesh,  fish,  and  fowl  of  all  sorts  and  kinds 

At  each  corner  rested  a  huge  pumpkin  pudding,  surrounded  with 
numerous  satellites  of  tarts,  and  in  the  very  centre  of  the  board 
stood  jellies,  and  the  wedding  cake,  with  its  snowy  covermg  of 
sugar,  studded  with  flowers  and  ginger,  full  as  large  round  as  a 
bushel  basket.  Strict  justice  was  done  the  repast.  The  ladies 
ate  as  though  they  lived  by  eating,  the  gentlemen  as  though  they 
were  hungry,  the  parson  as  if  he  loved  it.  Many  jokes  were 
cracked.  Many  a  good  wish  to  the  new  married  pair  was  drank, 
and  the  company  departed  in  high  spirits.      Caesar  drove  the 

bride  and  bridegroom,  in  Mr.  B 's  one  horse  square  top 

chaise,  to  their  own  dwelling,  where  they  lived  long  and  happy, 
although  Prudence  neither  played  upon  the  piano  nor  read  Ita- 
lian. 

If,  Bess,  this  narrative  affords  you  as  much  pleasure  in  reading 
of  olden  times,  as  it  has  your  uncle  in  recalling  them,  I  am  satis- 
fied. 

P.  S.  Your  grandmother  spoke  out  the  obey  so  as  to  be  dis- 
tinctly heard  all  over  the  room. 

With  a  view  to  illustrate  and  better  confirm  our  notices  of 
manners  and  customs,  we  here  give  sundry  interesting  remarks 
from  the  pen  of  Charles  F.  Hoffman,  Esq.,  as  presented  to  the 
New  York  Historical  Society,  saying ; 

It  has  always  been  a  curious  subject  with  me,  when  speculat- 
ing upon  the  growth  and  development  of  our  national  character, 
to  trace  the  influence  of  sectional  peculiarities,  and  determine  if 
possible  how  far  the  striking  social  features  which  characterize 
some  of  the  States,  are  represented  in  the  general  national  por- 
trait. 

But  the  interest — if  any  be  allowed  to  attach  to  the  theme — 
the  interest  of  the  inquiry  becomes  much  more  real  when  the 
early  manners  and  customs  of  the  present  state  of  New  York 
are  the  subject  of  investigation ;  for  the  vast  influx  of  immigra- 
tion since  the  revolution,  has  not  only  obliterated  her  peculiar 
colonial  character,  but  the  very  memory  of  it  is  rapidly  passing 
away.  The  Massachusetts-man,  the  Virginian  and  South  Ca- 
rolinian, are  still  identified  with  their  fathers,  in  both  private 
and  historical  association ;  while  New  York,  alike  in  the  grave 
28  T 


218  Manners  and  Customs. 

writings  of  the  annalist  and  in  the  habitual  mention  of  the  daily- 
press,  is  scarcely  recognized  as  having  more  than  a  territorial 
existence  previous  to  the  revolution.  The  popular  phrase  of  "our 
Pilgrim  fathers,"  has  become  perfectly  domesticated  in  the  pub- 
lic lecture-rooms  of  New  York;  and  no  one  thinks  of  discussing 
a  question  of  morals  in  the  newspapers,  without  referring  to  "  the 
customs  of  our  Puritan  ancestry.'^  Both  these  phrases,  indeed, 
have  more  than  once,  of  late  years,  been  used  in  our  state  legis- 
lature, to  add  force  to  some  eloquent  appeal.  Now,  while  it 
might  be  in  very  questionable  taste  to  carp  at  or  arraign  the  natu- 
ral associations  of  those  who  compose,  if  not  the  largest,  yet 
perhaps  the  most  intelligent,  and  possibly  the  most  valuable  por- 
tion of  our  fellow  citizens  throughout  the  state  generally,  yet 
this  covering  up  and  obliteration  of  our  ancient  story  is  not  alto- 
gether well !  New  York,  though  she  had  no  Speedwell  nor  May- 
flower freighted  with  precious  hearts,  daring  the  wilderness  for 
conscience's  sake — New  York  was  still  planted,  and  earlier 
planted,  by  men  as  bold  to  confront  the  perils  of  a  new  climate 
or  the  horrors  of  savage  warfare,  as  those  who  landed  at  Ply- 
mouth— by  men,  too,  who  penetrated  beyond  the  mountains,  and 
estabUshed  their  little  colonies  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the 
sea-shore,  without  thinking  that  they  did  anything  extraordinary 
enough  to  transmit  their  names  to  posterity. 

But  it  is  with  neither  of  these  memorable  bands  of  adven- 
turers that  we  now  have  to  do.  My  aim  is  only  to  call  your 
attention  to  the  distinctive  character  of  the  people  of  New  York 
— their  character,  whether  good  or  bad,  but  still  distinctive,  as  it 
existed  previous  to  the  revolution. 

In  those  old  colonial  days,  when  the  now  popular  dogmas 
about  "the  pure  Anglo-Saxon  race"  had  not  been  broached, 
except  in  the  student's  closet,  the  chance  traveller  who  visted  the 
banks  of  the  Hudson  observed  the  happy  fusion  of  national  pre- 
judices and  the  general  ease  and  uniformity  of  sentiment  which 
prevailed  among  the  descendants  of  the  different  European  stocks 
by  which  that  noble  valley  was  originally  planted ;  but,  while 
recording  that  the  general  system  of  opinions  here  was  far  more 
liberal  and  tolerant  than  that  prevailing  in  the  neighbouring  colo- 
nies, those  who  have  stated  the  fact  leave  us  to  make  up  our 
own  judgment  as  to  the  cause.  We  may  ascribe  the  amiable  trait 
to  the  social  intercourse  and  frequent  intermarriages  of  the  differ- 
ent races  already  alluded  to ;  we  may  attribute  it  to  the  homely  fact, 
that  most  of  the  settlers  of  New  York  came  hither  to  enjoy  life, 
not  to  establish  creeds ;  to  secure  a  domestic  fireside,  not  to  make 
converts  to  new  political  truths ;  or,  lastly,  we  may  look  for  the 
cause  in  the  nature  of  their  favourite  pursuits,  and  the  mollifying 
effect,  upon  manners,  of  many  a  simple  old  festal  custom. 

All  of  these  influences,  most  probably  had  a  combined  effect  in 
producing  the  result.     The  facility  with  which  both  the  French 


Manners  and  Customs.  219 

and  the  English  intermingled  with  their  Dutch  predecessors  in 
the  colony,  is  easily  accounted  for,  by  our  knowledge  of  the  long 
residence  in  Holland  of  most  of  the  French,  and  many  of  the 
British  immigrants,  before  corning  hither  to  establish  themselves  ; 
and  the  same  cause  will  account  for  Dutch  being  equally  with 
English,  the  general  language  of  the  colony,  long  after  the  latter 
race  had  begun  to  preponderate  in  numbers.  Oddly  enough, 
however,  while  their  Puritan  brethren  were  drawing  tighter  and 
tighter  the  rein  of  religious  authority  in  New  England,  it  was  to 
the  English  here  that  the  people  of  New  York  were  indebted 
for  their  first  lessons  in  general  toleration,  a  toleration  not  the 
less  remarkable  at  that  day,  because  the  Roman  Catholic  faith 
was  not  included ;  and  it  is  singular  that  the  historians  of  New 
England  should  affect  to  trace  any  of  the  precious  leaven  of 
political  Puritanism  among  the  people  of  New  York,  not  only 
previous  to  the  revolution,  but  so  early  as  the  year  1698,  a  period 
when  more  than  one  influential  English  family  of  this  province 
was  grievously  suspected,  of  "  popery  ;"  and  ^hen  in  the  city  of 
New  York  especially,  Jesuits  were  supposed  to  be  prowling 
around  every  corner. 

But  what  were  the  principal  pursuits  of  our  forefathers  ?  How 
did  their  habits  of  life  which  I  have  already  alluded  to  in  this 
connection  influence  their  general  tone  of  character  ?  The  bold 
deeds  of  Miles  Standish,  and  the  celebrated  names  Mianlonimo 
and  Philip  of  Pokanoket,  have  made  the  Indian  wars  of  New 
England  familiar  to  every  schoolboy, — familiar  as  are  the  savage 
forays  into  Kentucky,  of  a  much  later  day.  But  so  little  has  the 
legendary  story  of  New  York  been  illustrated,  until  the  appear- 
ance of  Campbell's  Annals  of  Tryon  County,  and  the  more  recent 
and  valuable  work  upon  the  times  of  Brant  and  the  border  wars 
generally,  by  another  member  of  this  Society,  that  few  seem 
aware  that  the  province  of  New  York  was  for  nearly  the  full 
space  of  a  century,  a  straggling  camp  of  partisan  soldiery,  ever  on 
the  alert  to  meet  and  repel  invasion. 

Whether  the  French,  after  drawing  their  Avonderful  line  of 
forts,  which  extended  through  the  western  wilderness,  from 
Quebec  to  New  Orleans,  whether  they  really  ever  hoped  to  cut  a 
path  to  the  Atlantic  by  the  way  of  the  Hudson,  it  is  now  difficult 
to  say.  But  long  previous  to  the  date  of  Leisler's  ill-starred 
attempt  to  expel  them  from  Canada,  and  down  to  the  time  when 
Wolfe  triumphed  at  Quebec,  the  old  chronicles  which  record  the 
formidable  descent  of  Count  Frontinac,  the  massacre  of  Schenec- 
tady, and  other  inroads  of  Hurons  and  Adirondacks  led  on  by 
French  officers,  tell  us  repeatedly  of  sudden  taxes  levied,  and  men 
warned  to  hold  themselves  ready  in  arms,  even  in  this  city, 
apparently  so  remote  from  the  scene  of  the  never-ending  border 
struggle.  To  the  military  character  thus  fearfully  fostered  through 
several  generations,  not  less  than  to  the  general  love  of  sylvan 


220  Manners  and  Customs. 

sports,  engendered  perhaps  by  the  pursuit  of  the  fur  trade,  many 
of  the  most  characteristic  traits  of  our  forefathers  are  safely 
attributable. 

The  wars  with  New  France,  as  Canada  is  called  by  the  pro- 
vincial writers  of  that  day,  commenced  at  an  early  period  of  New 
Netherland's  history,  and  though  ostensibly  suspended  when  the 
parent  countries  were  at  peace  with  each  other,  yet  the  incessant 
forays  between  the  New  York  and  Canadian  Indians ;  between 
the  famous  Five  Nations,  or  Iroquois  of  New  York,  and  the 
Hurons  and  Adirondacks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  was  in  fact  a 
struggle  between  the  French  and  English,  to  secure  possession  of 
northern  and  western  New  York.  A  grasping  desire  for  territory 
on  the  part  of  the  French,  and  a  bitter  jealousy  of  their  rivalship 
in  the  fur  trade,  upon  the  part  of  the  New  Yorkers,  impelled  the 
colonists  on  either  side,  to  share  personally  in  these  Indian  quar- 
rels, without  troubling  themselves  much  about  the  danger  of 
compromising  poUtically  the  mother  countries  which  pretended 
to  sway  them.  In  a  word,  the  pursuit  of  the  fur  trade  afforded 
them,  as  it  has  done  in  later  days,  an  admirable  cover  for  that 
respectable  species  of  land-piracy  which  permits  bands  of  men  to 
cut  each  other's  throats,  and  fight  out  their  national  quarrels  in 
the  wilderness,  without  necessarily  involving  their  country's  flag, 
by  the  practice  of  such  wholesale  hostility  against  each  other. 
And,  after  all,  how  did  it  matter  much  that  the  New  York  trader 
who  was  traversing  the  Mohawk  and  Oswego  with  a  boat  load 
of  muskets  and  gunpowder,  to  exchange  for  furs  with  his  Iroquois 
friends,  should  lend  his  hardy  crew  to  them  for  a  day  or  two, 
while  the  Burgeois  of  Montreal,  who  coasted  Lake  Ontario  with 
his  batteaux,  had  his  voyagenrs  already  clad  and  painted  like 
Indians,  in  honest  expectation  of  such  a  contingency  ! 

The  large  immigration  of  disbanded  German  soldiers  in  Queen 
Anne's  time,  and  the  influx  a  few  years  later  of  Scotch  Jacobites, 
who  had  been  in  arms  for  the  Pretender,  brought  a  representation 
of  new  races  of  not  ungenial  habits,  to  coalesce  with  the  earlier 
colonists  of  New  York ;  and  it  was  owing  to  the  half  military, 
half  marauding  temper  these  induced,  that  tjie  breaking  out  of 
the  Revolution  found  so  few  neutrals  in  New  York — so  many 
that  took  up  arms  either  on  one  side  or  the  other,  fighting  with 
such  desperation  to  the  close,  that  in  no  other  province  did  the 
struggle  wear  so  completely  all  the  fearful  features  of  a  civil  war 
as  in  this. 

It  is  now  curious  to  look  at  the  other  side  of  the  picture,  as  we 
have  it  authentically  transmitted  to  us.  According  to  the  intelli- 
gent Mrs.  Grant,  of  Laghan,  (whose  delightful  Reminiscences  of 
early  New  York,  are  probably  familiar  to  most  of  us,)  there  were 
in  her  day  but  few  youth  of  character  or  respectability,  who  had 
not  made  one  or  more  expeditions  to  the  frontiers,  serving  at 
least  one  campaign,  in  what  might  then  be  called  the  Aboriginal 


Manners  and  Customs.  22\ 

Flanders  of  America.  Yet,  the  great  simplicity  of  manners,  the 
peace,  security,  and  abundance  which  prevailed  in  the  Valley  of 
the  Hudson,  gave  to  that  favoured  region  a  character  of  almost 
pastoral  tranquillity.  "This  singular  community,"  says  the 
observing  Scotch  woman,  "  seemed  to  have  a  common  stock,  not 
only  of  sufferings  and  enjoyments,  but  of  information  and  ideas.'' 
Some  pre-eminence  in  point  of  knowledge,  there  certainly  was, 
yet  those  who  possessed  it  seemed  scarcely  conscious  of  their  supe- 
riority. The  daily  occasions  which  called  forth  the  exertions  of 
mind,  sharpened  sagacity,  and  strengthened  character;  avarice 
and  vanity  were  there  confined  to  very  narrow  limits ;  of  money 
there  was  very  little,  (wampum  beads  being  actually  at  one  time 
a  common  medium  of  exchange,)  and  dress  was,  though  in  some 
instances  valuable,  not  subject  to  the  caprice  of  fashion;  the 
beasts  of  prey  that  haunted  their  enclosures,  (for  wolves  and 
bears  especially  abounded  in  this  colony,)  and  the  enraged  sav- 
ages that  always  hung  threatening  on  their  boundaries,  made 
them  more  and  more  endeared  to  each  other.  In  this  calm  infancy 
of  society  the  rigors  of  law  slept,  because  the  fury  of  turbulent 
passions  had  not  yet  awakened  it.  Fashion,  that  whimsical 
tyrant  of  adult  communities,  had  not  yet  erected  her  standard  ; 
"  yet  no  person,"  says  Mrs.  Grant,  "  appeared  uncouth  or  ill- 
bred,  because  there  was  no  accomplished  standard  of  comparison  ; 
their  manners,  if  not  elegant  and  polished,  were  at  least  easy  and 
independent,  while  servility  and  insolence  were  equally  un- 
known." Belted  in,  as  it  were,  by  the  formidable  Iroquois  on 
their  northern  and  western  borders,  and  acknowledging  those 
martial  tribes  as  their  chief  bulwark  against  the  allied  Hurons 
and  French  of  Canada,  they  were  thus  brought  in  immediate 
contact  with  those  whom  the  least  instance  of  fraud,  insolence,  or 
grasping  meanness,  might  have  converted  from  even  valuable 
friends  into  resistless  enemies.  They  were  thus,  we  are  told, 
compelled  at  first  to  "  assume  a  virtue  if  they  had  it  not,"  while 
the  daily  pressure  of  circumstance,  at  last  rendered  that  virtue 
habitual. 

With  regard  to  the  New  York  women  of  that  day,  the  same 
writer  bears  particular  testimony  that  while  their  confined  educa- 
tion precluded  elegance  of  mind,  the  simplicity  of  their  manners 
wa^  as  far  removed  as  possible  from  vulgarity.  "  At  the  same 
time,"  she  observes,  "these  unembellished  females  had  more 
comprehension  of  mind,  more  variety  of  ideas,  more,  in  short,  of 
what  may  be  called  original  thinking,  than  could  be  easily  ima- 
gined." Indeed  it  was  on  the  women  that  the  task  of  religious 
instruction  chiefly  devolved ;  and  the  essentials  rather  than  the 
ceremonials  of  piety,  being  instilled  by  them,  the  mothers  of  the 
colony  were  thus  regarded  with  a  reverence  which  gave  a  simple 
earnestness  to  their  character  when  mixing  in  secular  concerns. 

Of  the  domestic,  or  rather  the  out-of-door  pursuits  of  these 

t2 


222  Manners  and  Customs. 

simple  housewives,  there  is  one  charming  picture  has  come  down 
to  us.  While  the  custom  of  the  male  head  of  the  household 
cherishing  some  ancient  tree  planted  immediately  in  front  of  the 
door-way,  was  almost  universal  in  both  town  and  country,  alike 
in  Albany  and  New  York,  as  well  as  in  every  rural  settlement, 
each  dwelling  was  adorned  with  its  little  garden,  which  was  under 
the  special  care  of  the  mistress  of  the  family.  The  garden  spot, 
devoted  equally  to  flowers  and  esculent  vegetables,  was  thought 
to  evidence  equally  the  advance  of  her  taste  and  the  condition  of 
her  housekeeping.  After  describing  these  gardens  as  "  extremely 
neat,  but  small,  and  not  by  any  means  calculated  for  walking  in," 
the  European  resident  exclaims,  "  I  think  I  yet  see  what  I  have 
so  often  beheld  in  both  town  and  country,  a  respectable  mistress 
of  a  family  going  out  to  her  garden  in  an  April  morning,  with  her 
great  calash,  her  little  painted  basket  of  seeds,  and  her  robe  over 
her  shoulders,  to  her  garden  labours.  These  were  by  no  means 
figurative ;  a  woman  in  very  easy  circumstances  and  abundantly 
gentle  in  form  and  manners,  would  sow  and  plant,  and  rake  in- 
cessantly." These  fair  gardeners  (we  are  also  told)  were  likewise 
good  florists,  and  displayed  much  emulation  and  solicitude  in  their 
pleasing  employment. 

In  connection  with  this  glimpse  of  not  uninteresting  homely 
habits  it  may  be  worth  while  to  recur  to  the  condition  of  slavery 
in  early  New  York.  So  utterly  is  this  institution  now  eftaced 
from  among  us,  that  it  has  become  difficult  to  realize  how  much 
is  due  to  the  far-seeing  statesman  and  pure  patriot,  through  whose 
instrumentality,  chiefly,  abolition  was  effected  within  our  borders. 
Yet  in  no  colony  of  our  present  Union  did  slavery  more  generally 
prevail  than  in  that  of  New  York;  for  while  the  social  distinctions, 
depending  upon  taste  and  education,  were  quietly  respected,  there 
was  here  no  division  of  society  into  two  great  classes,  as  at  the 
south  ;  where  one  great  landed  proprietor  could  count  hundreds 
of  human  beings  as  his  serfs,  while  another  of  the  same  blood, 
was  sunk  almost  below  the  servile  tiller  of  the  soil,  by  the  very 
fact  of  his  owning  no  property  in  any  man  but  himself  For, 
while  the  number  of  slaves  in  any  New  York  family  rarely  ex- 
ceeded a  dozen,  there  was  hardly  a  dwelling  in  the  colony  that 
di,d  not  shelter  some  of  these  family  appendages.  Slavery  was 
indeed  here  literally  "  a  domestic  institution."  "  There  were  no 
field  negroes,"  no  collection  of  cabins  remote  from  the  house, 
known  as  "the  negro  quarters."  The  slaves  lived  under  the 
same  roof,  and  partook  of  the  same  fare  as  the  rest  of  the  family, 
to  which  they  belonged.  They  were  scrupulously  baptized,  too, 
and  shared  the  same  religious  instruction  with  the  children  of  the 
family.  There  was  no  especial  law,  we  are  told,  preventing  the 
barter  of  slaves  ;  but  a  natural  sentiment,  which  had  grown  into 
a  custom,  as  compulsory  as  any  law,  prevented  the  separation  of 
families ;  and  above  all,  the  sale  of  any  child  without  the  permis- 


Manners  and  Customs.  223 

sion  of  the  mother,  who  would  often  exercise  her  own  caprice  in 
designating  its  future  master.  The  exchange  of  slaves  was  also 
almost  invariably  limited  to  family  relatives.  When  a  negro 
woman's  child  attained  the  age  of  three  years,  it  was  solemnly 
presented,  the  first  new-year's  day  'following,  to  the  son,  or 
daughter,  or  other  young  relation  of  the  family,  who  was  of  the 
same  sex  with  the  child  so  presented  ;  and  when  in  after  years, 
the  youthful  master  went  out  to  seek  his  fortunes  upon  the  fron- 
tiers, a  thousand  instances  are  related  of  the  fidelity  and  devotion 
of  these  sable  squires,  amid  the  perils  of  the  wilderness.  There  is 
one  remark  which  I  will  venture  to  make,  in  connection  with  this 
branch  of  our  subject,  because  its  truth  may  be,  even  at  this  late 
day,  verified  in  Rockland,  Orange,  King's,  Queen's  and  other 
counties  of  this  state,  where  the  full-blooded  descendants  of  these 
negro  slaves  are  still  found  with  their  African  features  and  com- 
plexions, wholly  unchanged.  In  this  colony  alone  was  it  cus- 
tomary, among  the  rural  population,  (after  the  fashion  of  dealing 
with  the  household  serfs  of  northern  Europe,  in  the  olden  time,) 
to  seat  the  menials  at  the  lower  end  of  the  family  board,  but  not- 
withstanding this  familiar  contact  with  the  race,  amalgamation, 
as  I  have  already  hinted,  was  utterly  unknown  to  our  forefathers. 
The  mulatto  mixture  was  introduced  here  from  other  states.  As 
a  happy  confirmation  of  the  truth  of  this  observation,  derived 
from  other  sources,  I  may  mention  that  after  writing  thus  far,  I 
found,  upon  referring  to  the  work  from  which  I  have  already  so 
freely  quoted,  the  valuable  testimony  of  its  writer,  given  in  the 
following  words : 

"  It  is  but  justice  to  record  a  singular  instance  of  moral  delicacy, 
distinguishing  this  settlement  (the  colony  of  New  York)  from 
every  other  in  the  like  circumstances.  Though  from  their  simple 
and  friendly  modes  of  life,  they  were  from  infancy  in  habits  of 
familiarity  with  their  negroes,  yet  being  early  taught  that  nature 
had  placed  between  them  a  barrier,  which  it  was  in  a  high  degree 
criminal  and  disgraceful  to  pass,  they  considered  a  mixture  of 
such  distinct  races  with  abhorrence,  as  a  violation  of  her  laws. 
This  greatly  conduced  to  the  preservation  of  family  happiness 
and  concord.  It  may  be  thought  remarkable  that  our  forefathers, 
while  deducing  not  only  their  general  code  of  morality,  but  this 
special  creed  as  to  the  preservation  of  castes,  from  the  Bible,  like- 
wise pretended  to  find  in  the  same  good  book  the  most  unques- 
tionable authority  for  holding  the  black  race  in  bondage.  They 
imagined  that  they  had  found  the  negro  condemned  to  perpetual 
slavery,  and  thought  nothing  remained  for  them  but  to  lighten 
the  chains  of  their  fellow  Christians  after  having  made  them 
such." 

Of  law,  we  are  drily  told  by  a  contemporary,  the  generality 
of  those  people  knew  very  little  ;  of  philosophy,  nothing  at  all, 
save  as  they  found  them  both  in  the  Bible,  the  time-cherished 


224  Manners  and  Customs. 

possession  of  every  family ;  and  often  their  only  literary  treasure. 
We  have  now  the  laws,  the  poetry,  and  philosophy,  of  which 
they  were  so  deplorably  ignorant ;  yet  the  law-giver,  the  poet, 
and  the  philosopher,  might  perhaps  perversely  decide  that  the 
spirit  which  gives  vitality  to  these  elements  of  social  elevation, 
was  hardly  more  diffused  than  formerly.  They  either  and  all 
of  them  might  declare  that  Order,  the  first  and  highest  law  of 
Heaven  itself — that  Truth  and  Naturalness,  the  basis  of  all 
poetry — that  Happiness,  the  ultimate  aim  of  all  philosophy — 
though  by  no  means  so  well  understood  as  now,  were  practised 
nearly  as  well ;  were  enjoyed  almost  as  generally  as  in  our  en- 
lightened day. 

Men  acted  then,  not  because  public  opinion  constrained,  but 
because  their  own  honest  and  well  trained  natures  impelled  them. 
"Public  opinion" — that  name  of  the  most  tremendous  engine  of 
a  people's  power,  and  most  subtle  weapon  against  individual 
freedom — that  engine,  whose  formidable  energies  have  made  New 
England  gloriously  powerful  as  she  is — that  weapon,  whose  mis- 
chievous meddling  with  private  rights  is  marring  the  manly  inde- 
pendence of  Americans,  and  letting  out  its  social  worth  from  the 
heart  of  the  nation — public  opinion,  as  we  understand  it,  was 
wholly  unknown  to  our  fathers. 

To  those  familiar  with  the  racy  humour  of  Knickerbocker's 
history — whole  pages  of  which  we  have  seen  quoted  in  a  grave 
work  of  historical  reference,  as  presenting  a  true  picture  of  New 
York  society  and  manners  previous  to  the  Revolution — to  those, 
I  say,  who  are  disposed  to  take  this  very  witty,  but  not  altogether 
well-judged  caricature  of  our  forefathers,  as  a  veritable  though 
exaggerated  picture  of  the  times  preceding  the  Revolution,  the 
views  in  which  we  have  indulged  may  seem  lifeless  and  unattrac- 
tive. 

Yet,  while  it  would  not  have  been  difficult,  with  the  mere  aid 
of  many  a  sketch,  work,  and  manuscript  in  the  collection  of  the 
Historical  Society,  to  prepare  a  paper  that  might  have  some  cu- 
rious interest  for  many,  I  have  preferred  taking  a  more  general, 
though  less  entertaining  view  of  my  subject.  I  wished  to  call 
the  attention  of  more  philosophic  minds  to  the  actual  condition 
of  the  people  of  New  York  before  the  schoolmaster  was  abroad. 
I  wished  to  awaken  some  interest  in  the  manners  and  customs 
of  a  race  of  men  who  seem  to  me  to  have  been  full  as  respectable 
in  their  day,  on  the  score  of  character,  as  we  claim  to  be  in  ours, 
on  the  score  of  mere  intellectuality — a  race  of  men  who  I  con- 
fess, are  full  as  interesting  to  me  from  their  honest  individuality, 
so  to  speak,  as  are  those  creatures  of  enlightened  public  opinion 
which  are  called  the  "  intelligent  mass,"  in  our  day.  Nor  would 
I  be  understood  as  either  preaching  up  conservatism,  or  yearning, 
with  antiquarian  affection,  for  the  usages  and  modes  of  opinion 
which  belonged  to  times  gone  by.     My  first  object  has  been 


Diagram  of  Great  Fires,  1835  and  '45,  p.  197. 


Remarkable  Fads  and  Incidents.  225 

merely  to  remind  you  that  the  people  of  those  times  are  not 
unworthy  of  your  study,  and  that  their  claim  to  remembrance 
may  be  more  fully  acknowledged  than  now,  in  those  coming 
years  when  we  may  vainly  seek  to  fan  the  embers  of  expiring 
tradition.  My  second  object  has  been,  to  interpose  a  doubt  which 
must  often  have  occurred  to  all  thinking  men,  whether  the  boasted 
intelligence  and  improved  external  mechanism  of  the  society  in 
which  we  live  is  really  such  an  improvement  upon  the  social  plan 
by  which  the  character  of  our  forefathers  was  developed,  that  we 
are  willing  to  forego  their  memory,  save  as  it  may  minister  to  our 
curiosity. 


KEMARKABLE  FACTS  AND  INCIDENTS. 

— — -"  To  strike  our  marvelling  eyes, 
Or  move  our  special  wonder." 

In  filling  up  a  chapter  of  this  kind,  we  foresee  that  it  will  be 
necessarily  so  various  and  desultory,  as  to  proclude  any  classifi- 
cation. It  will  be  all  such  facts  and  things  as  may  best  serve 
to  surprise,  amuse  and  inform  the  present  generation.  Though 
old  in  themselves,  they  will  be  novelties  to  many  now, — a  present 
picture, — though  in  fragments,  and  in  mosaic  of  a  buried  age. 

In  the  year  1735,  animosity  ran  pretty  high  between  the  mili- 
tary governor  and  his  council  on  the  one  part,  and  the  mayor  and 
council  on  the  other  part.  On  this  occasion,  Zanger  the  printer, 
took  the  part  of  the  latter,  which  was  considered  "vox  populi" 
also ;  the  consequence  was,  he  was  put  under  arrest  and  trial. 
The  popular  excitement  was  strong,  and  feelings  extended  even 
to  Philadelphia.  Andrew  Hamilton,  there  a  celebrated  lawyer 
and  civilian,  volunteered  to  aid  Zanger,  and  went  on  to  New 
York,  and  there  effected  his  deliverance  with  great  triumph. 
Grateful  for  this,  the  corporation  of  the  city  voted  him  "  a  golden 
snuff-box,  with  many  classical  inscriptions,  and  within  they 
enclosed  him  the  freedom  of  the  city."  The  box  might  now  be 
a  curiosity. 

I  was  shown  the  locality  of  an  incident  which  has  had  more 
readers  than  any  other  popular  tale  of  modern  times.  No.  24 
on  Bowery  road,  is  a  low  wooden  house,  the  same  from  which 
the  heroine  of  "  Charlotte  Temple"  was  seduced  by  a  British 
officer.  The  facts  were  stated  to  me,  and  the  place  shown  by 
Dr.  F. 

In  1769  was  a  time  of  fierce  and  contentious  election  for 

Assemblymen  ;  the  poll  was  kept  open  for  four  days ;  no  expense 

was  spared  by  the  candidates ;  the  friends  of  each  party  kept 

open  houses  in  every  ward,  where  all  regaled  and  partook  to  the 

29 


226  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents. 

full ;  all  citizens  left  off  their  usual  business ;  there  were  only 
1515  electors,  of  which  917  were  freeholders;  all  non-resident 
voters  were  sought  for  earnestly  in  the  country  and  brought  to 
the  city  polls.  John  Cruger,  James  Delancy,  Jacob  Walton,  and 
John  Jauncey,  were  the  successful  candidates  by  majorities  gene- 
rally of  250  to  270  votes. 

On  an  occasion  of  an  election,  Mr.  Alexander  M'Dougal  (after- 
wards Gen.  M'D.)  was  the  author  of  an  address  "to  the  public,'^' 
signed  "  Legion,"  wherein  he  invoked  the  public  assembling  of 
the  people  at  the  fields  near  De  la  Montange's,  (which  is  in 
modern  parlance  in  the  Park,  near  Peale's  museum,)  "  in  order 
effectually  to  avert  the  evil  of  the  late  base,  inglorious  conduct 
by  our  general  assembly,  who,  in  opposition  to  the  loud  and 
general  call  of  their  constitutents  and  of  sound  policy,  and  to  the 
glorious  struggle  for  our  birthrights,  have  dared  to  vote  supplies 
to  the  troops  without  a  shadow  of  pretext.  Therefore,  let  every 
friend  to  his  country  then  appear." 

For  this  stirring  appeal  M^Dougal  was  taken  under  arrest  by  the 
sergeant  at  arms  of  the  assembly,  who  placed  him  in  the  county 
gaol.  While  he  was  there  confined,  forty-five  persons  "  Sons  of 
Liberty,"  (for  "  forty-five"  persons  was  a  talismanic  number 
then)  went  to  visit  him  in  prison,  to  salute  and  cheer  him.  Not 
long  after,  "  forty-five"  female  "  Sons  of  Liberty,"  headed  by 
Mrs.  Malcomb,  (wife  of  the  general)  made  their  visit  also  to  cheer 
the  state  prisoner,  and  to  applaud  "  his  noble  conduct  in  the  cause 
of  liberty."  It  was  this  leaven  that  was  carrying  on  the  fermen- 
tation thus  early  for  the  revolution. 

The  gaining  of  the  election  caused  the  New  Yorkers,  in  1770, 
to  recede  from  their  non-importation  covenants,  and  the  Whigs  of 
Philadelphia  resolved  to  buy  nothing  of  them  "  while  governed 
by  a  faction." 

The  winter  of  1755  was  so  pecuUarly  mild,  that  the  navigation 
of  the  North  river  kept  open  all  the  season.  Mr.  David  Grim, 
saw  from  that  cause.  Sir  Peter  Hackett's  and  Col.  Dunbar's 
regiment  go  up  the  river  to  Albany  in  that  winter. 

The  winter  of  1779-80,  on  the  other  hand,  was  the  extreme  of 
cold,  producing  "  the  hard  winter."  Two  great  cakes  of  ice  closed 
up  the  North  river  from  Paulus  Hook  ferry  to  Courtland  street. 
Hundreds  then  crossed  daily.  Artillery,  and  sleds  of  provisions, 
were  readily  passed  over :  and  even  heavy  artillery  was  borne 
over  the  frozen  bridge  to  Staten  Island. 

My  friend  James  Bogert,  then  a  small  lad,  was  with  his  uncle, 
the  first  persons  who  were  ever  known  to  have  crossed  the  East 
river  on  the  ice,  at  or  near  Hell  Gate, 

The  winters  of  1740-41,  1764-5,  1779-80,  and  1820-21, 
formed  the  four  severest  winters  in  100  years ;  and  were  the  only 
winters  in  which  the  North  river  could  be  crossed  on  the  ice. 
The  cold,  on  the  25th  January  1821,  was  seven  degrees  below 


Remarkable  Fads  and  Incidents.  227 

zero ;  being  one  degree  lower  than  any  former  record.     The 
cold  in  January  1765,  was  at  six  degrees  below  zero. 

"  Then  the  parching  air  burnt  frore, 
And  cold  performed  Uie  effect  of  Jire  /" 

I  saw  in  the  Historical  Society  Library,  something  very  rare 
to  be  found  in  this  country  :  they  are  sixteen  volumes  folio  of 
MS.  Journals  of  the  House  of  Commons,  in  Cromwell's  rule, 
say  from  1650,  to  1675,  said  to  have  been  presented  through  the 
family  of  the  late  Governor  Livingston.  I  suspect,  however,  they 
came  through  the  family  of  Governor  Williamson,  because  a 
great  part  of  Col.  De  Hart's  library  went  by  will  to  De  Hart 
Williamson  in  1801.  Mrs.  D.  Logan  had  before  told  me  of 
having  seen  those  volumes  in  the  possession  of  Col.  De  Hart,  of 
Morristown,  N.  J.  about  the  year  ISOO.  She  could  not  learn 
how  they  came  into  this  country,  although  she  found  it  was 
believed  they  were  abducted  by  some  of  Cromwell's  friends 
(who  went  out  first  to  New  England,  and  afterwards  settled 
near  Morristown)  to  prevent  their  use  against  those  who  might 
remain  in  England.  Their  ample  margins  had  been  partially 
used  by  a  commanding  officer  of  our  army  there,  when  paper 
was  scarce,  to  write  his  orders  !* 

Captain  Kidd,  the  celebrated  pirate,  was  once  married  and 
settled  at  New  York.  As  the  trial  of  Kidd,  which  I  have  seen 
and  preserved,  states  on  the  authority  of  Col.  Livingston,  that  he 
had  a  wife  and  child  then  in  New  York,  my  inquiring  mind  has 
sometimes,  looking  among  the  multitude,  said.  Who  knows,  but 
some  of  these  are  Kidd's  descendants  ?  '  I  observe,  however,  that 
the  name  is  not  in  the  New  York  Directory ;  Col.  Livingston 
recommended  him  to  the  crown  officers  "  as  a  bold  and  honest 
man."  He  had  probably  been  a  privateersman  aforetime  out  of 
New  York,  as  we  find  the  records  there  stating  that  he  there  paid 
his  fees  (in  1691)  to  the  governor  and  to  the  king.  Another 
record  also  states  some  process  against  one  of  his  seamen,  as 
deserted  from  him. 

In  1695  he  arrived  at  New  York  from  England,  with  the 
king's  commission,  and  soon  after  began  and  continued  his  pira- 
cies for  four  years.  In  1699  he  again  arrived  within  the  Long 
Island  Sound,  and  made  several  deposits  on  the  shore  of  that 
island.  Being  decoyed  to  Boston,  he  was  arrested,  sent  to  Eng- 
land, and  executed  at  Execution  Dock  on  the  23d  March,  1701. 

To  this  day  it  is  the  traditionary  report  that  the  family  of 
J at  Oyster  Bay,  and  of  C at  Huntington,  are  en- 

♦  An  elaborate  notice  of  these  volumes  has  been  made  by  James  Bowdoin, 
Esq.,  for  the  Historical  Society,  of  Massachusetts,  and  I  have  since  ascertained 
that  they  accord  Vrith  the  jprinUd  Journals.  It  is  nevertheless  strange  that  they 
are  here. 


228  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents. 

riched  by  Kidd's  spoils ;  they  having  been  in  his  service,  by  force 
it  is  presumed,  and  made  their  escape  at  Long  Island  at  Eaton- 
neck,  which  gave  them  the  power  afterwards  of  attaining  "  the 

deposits"  above  referred  to.    Both  J and  C- became 

strangely  rich. 

The  records  of  Philadelphia  show  that,  contemporaneous  with 
this  time,  "  one  Shelly,  from  New  York,  has  greatly  infested  our 
navigation  with  Kidd's  pirates." 

In  the  "History  of  the  Pirates,"  Boston  edition,  we  find 
some  additional  facts  concerning  Captain  Robert  Kidd  and  his 
associates.  The  king's  commission  to  Kidd,  while  he  affected  to 
be  a  leojal  Privateersman,  incidentally  named  the  pirates  whom 
he  was  intended  to  seek  and  capture  ;  they  were  "  Captains 
Thomas  Too,  John  Ireland,  Thomas  Wake,  and  Captain  Maze, 
and  other  subjects,  natives  or  inhabitants  of  New  York  and 
elsewhere  in  America,  they  being  Pirates  upon  the  American 
seas,"  &c.  None  of  their  histories  appeared  in  the  book.  Some 
of  them  were  natives  of  New  Jersey  nearest  to  New  York. 
With  Kidd  were  executed  at  London  as  his  accomplices,  Nich. 
Churchill  and  James  How  of  New  Jersey,  and  Gabriel  Loff, 
Hugh  Parrott,  Abel  Owens,  and  Darby  Muilins.  It  was  proved 
that  Kidd  had  killed  his  gunner  "  William  Moor"  in  a  quarrel. 
It  will  not  fail  to  be  observed  in  the  foregoing,  and  similar  cases 
of  names,  that  none  of  them  are  of  the  true  Holland  race.  It  is 
however  believed,  that  the  New  Yorkers  as  Dutchmen,  were 
keen  enemies  of  the  Spaniards,  who  had  so  long  oppressed  and 
wasted  their  father-land.  They  might  have  been  willing  to  con- 
nive at  unlawful  aggressions  on  their  possessions  in  the  West 
Indies  and  in  South  America ;  Even  the  English  colonists,  every 
where,  had  no  aversion  to  their  being  roughly  scourged,  as  ene- 
mies in  many  wars. 

In  1712  a  pirate  brigantine  appeared  off  Long  Island,  com- 
manded by  one  Lowe,  a  Bostonian ;  lie  was  a  successful  fellow, 
who  had  captured  Honduras.  About  the  same  time  one  Evans 
also  comes  on  the  coast. 

The  next  year  two  pirates  looked  into  Perth  Amboy  and  New 
York  itself. 

Lowe  commanded  the  "  Merry  Christmas,"  of  three  hundred 
and  thirty  tons,  and  his  consort  was  commanded  by  one  Harris. 
[Another  pirate.  Captain  Sprigg,  called  his  vessel  "the  Bachelor's 
Delight."]  They  bore  a  black  flag  ;  while  off  the  Hook,  they 
Avere  engaged  by  the  Greyhound  of  his  Majesty's  navy.  He 
captured  the  least  of  them,  having  on  board  as  prisoners  thirty- 
seven  whites  and  six  blacks ;  all  of  whom  were  tried  and  executed 
at  Rhode  Island,  and  all  bearing  our  common  English  names. 
Captain  Solgard,  who  thus  conquered,  was  presented  with  the 
freedom  of  the  city  in  a  gold  snuff-box.     Lowe,  in  indignation, 


Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents.  229 

afterwards  became  cruel  to  Englishmen,  cutting  and  slitting  their 
noses.  He  had  on  board  during  the  fight,  as  the  prisoners  told, 
£150,000  in  silver  and  gold. 

The  gazettes  of  this  period  teem  with  their  adventures.  In 
that  time  the  pubUc  mind  was  engrossed  with  the  dread  of  them, 
and  they  had  accomplices  often  on  shore  to  aid  them  and  divide 
the  spoil. 

In  1724  William  Bradford,  in  New  York,  publishes  the  general 
history  of  the  pirates,  including  two  women,  Mary  Reed  and 
Anne  Bonny. 

First  discovery  of  New  York  harbour  by  the  English.  It  is 
not  told,  and  perhaps  not  known  to  any  American  historian,  that 
New  York  harbour  and  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson,  were  discovered 
by  the  English,  before  seen  or  known  by  Hudson.  My  edition 
of  "  Modern  History,"  being  a  continuation  of  the  Universal 
History  (in  3  vols.  8vo.,  concerning  America,)  London  edition, 
1763,  vol.  2,  p.  240,  says,  "A  ship  was  equipped  by  two  enter- 
prising public  spirited  noblemen,  the  Lords  Southampton  and 
Arundel,  to  prosecute  discoveries,  the  conduct  of  which  was  en- 
trusted to  Capt.  Weymouth.  The  adventurer  set  sail  in  the 
month  of  March  1605,  and  arrived  the  following  Whitsunday 
at  the  mouth  of  Hudson's  river,  on  the  coast  of  North  America, 
to  which,  for  this  reason,  he  gave  the  name  of  Pentecost  har- 
bour. At  first  his  voyage  was  successful,  he  traded  with  the 
natives  for  furs,  and  obtained  a  considerable  cargo ;  but  his  men 
kidnapping  some  of  the  Indians,  he  wdiS  forced  Xo  quit  the  coast 
abruptly,  to  avoid  the  effects  of  their  resentment,  and  take  his 
departure  for  England.'' 

It  may  be  remarked  also,  that  the  French  have  also  had  some 
show  of  claim  to  discovery,  by  the  Dauphin  in  April  1524,  one 
of  Verranzo's  ships.  He  entered  the  harbour  about  the  lati- 
tude of  41°  described  somewhat  like  New  York — there  he  re- 
mained and  traded  with  the  natives  till  the  5th  of  May.  See 
Hakluyt's  voyages. 

The  same  vol.  2nd,  p.  546,  says,  "  It  is  difficult,  and  indeed 
immaterial,  to  settle  the  claims  of  prior  possession,  amongst  the 
colonists  of  America.  Capt.  Hudson,  an  Englishman,  is  said  to 
have  been  the  first  who  discovered  this  country,  and  about  the 
year  1608  he  sold  it  to  the  Dutch.  [This  time  don't  agree  with  our 
records  that  his  discovery  was  in  September  1609.]  This  trans- 
action was  certainly  very  questionable,  as  it  had  not  the  sanction 
of  James  I.,  without  which  it  was  thought  it  was  not  in  the  power 
of  a  private  subject  to  dispose  of  so  important  and  so  fine  a  tract 
of  country.  The  Dutch  however  proceeded  to  settle  it ;  the  court 
of  England  complained  of  this  settlement,  and  of  their  placing  a 
governor  over  it — protesting  against  it."  Sir  Samuel  Argal, 
while  acting  as  governor  in  Virginia,  as  deputy  to  Lord  Dela- 
war,  (p.  245)  "  was  indefatigable  in  making  discoveries  on  the 

U 


230  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents, 

coasts  of  New  England,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Acadia ;  from  whence 
he  had  driven  some  parties  of  French,  who  had  attempted  to 
make  settlements — Sir  Samuel  claiming  all  this  coast  as  the  right 
of  the  crown  of  England.  It  being  represented  that  Mr.  Argal 
bent  his  whole  application  to  the  discovery  of  new  countries, 
without  making  the  proper  advantage  of  those  already  in  posses- 
sion, he  was  recalled  (1611).  It  was  perhaps  owing  to  the  above 
mentioned  characteristics  of  Sir  Samuel  Argal,  that  it  is  said,  vol. 
2,  p.  346  :  "  Sir  Samuel  Argal,  in  his  way  from  Virginia  to 
New  Scotland  (Nova  Scotia),  attacked  and  destroyed  the  planta- 
tions of  the  Dutch,  by  order,  it  is  to  be  presumed,  from  the  court 
of  England."  "  IJpon  this,  the  Dutch  applied  to  king  James  for 
a  confirmation  of  Hudson's  conveyance  ;  but  all  they  could  ob- 
tain, was  leave  to  build  some  cottages  for  the  conveniency  of 
their  ships,  touching  for  fresh  water,  in  their  way  to  Brazil?^ 
"This  permission  afforded  them  pretexts  for  enlarging  their 
settlements,  till  at  last,  New  Netherlands  became  a  flourishing 
colony." 

Early  Notices.  In  1670,  Dan'l  Denton  of  England,  who  had 
been  residing  among  the  first  English  settlers  at  Jamaica,  Long 
Island,  published  in  London,  his  "  brief  relation  of  New  York," 
as  it  had  appeared  to  him  under  its  then  recent  change,  from  the 
Dutch  to  the  British  rule.  From  it  as  a  scarce  work,  (reprinted 
by  the  Historical  Society  of  Penna.,)  I  make  sundry  extracts,  de- 
pictive of  things  as  they  were,  viz.  He  writes,  he  says,  to  give 
satisfaction  to  those  who  may  be  desirous  to  go  thither.  Land, 
he  says,  is  procured  by  forming  a  company  sufiicient  to  make  a 
town,  which  the  governor  readily  confirms,  wherever  they  may 
choose  to  locate  it.  A  part  of  the  first  land  they  leave  to  lie  in 
common  as  pasture  land,  until  more  population  may  make  it  use- 
ful to  divide  the  remainder.  It  seems  to  be  all  a  gratis  concern, 
for  the  sake  of  population  and'  improvement.  The  things  most 
needful  for  the  new  comers,  is  said  to  be  clothing ;  for  with  that, 
they  can  supply  themselves  with  cattle  and  corn ;  and  with  any 
sorts  of  English  goods,  such  as  implements  of  husbandry,  nails, 
hinges,  glass  &c.,  they  can  command  everything.  The  tradesmen 
there  of  all  kinds,  have  enough  to  do,  and  all  live  happily.  There 
they  do  much  in  raising  their  own  flax,  making  their  own  linen, 
their  woollen  cloth,  and  linsey-woolsey.  I  may  say,  (says  he,) 
and  that  truly,  that  if  there  be  any  terrestrial  happiness  to  be  had 
by  people  of  all  ranks,  especially  of  an  inferior  rank,  it  must  cer- 
tainly be  here :  here  any  one  may  furnish  himself  with  land  and 
live  rent  free ;  yea  with  such  a  quantity  of  land,  that  he  may 
weary  himself  in  the  walking  over  his  fields  of  corn,  and  all  sorts 
of  grain.  And  let  his  stock  of  cattle  amomit  to  hundreds,  he  need 
not  fear  their  want  of  pasture  in  the  summer,  or  fodder  in  the 
winter,  the  woods  then  affording  sufficient  supply.  In  the  sum- 
mer season,  the  grass  grows  spontaneously  as  high  as  the  knees, 


City  of  Nieu  Orange,  as  sketched  in  1673,  p.  11  and  147. 


Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents.  231 

and  some  places  as  high  as  the  waist,  interlaced  with  pea  vines 
and  other  weeds,  which  cattle  much  delight  in.  Grape  vines 
abound,  forest  trees  afford  shade,  and  brooks  and  ponds  are  all 
about  at  hand,  for  cattle  in  their  ranges.  Such  a  free  and  open 
land  once,  free  to  all  who  would  come  and  take,  might  make 
many  of  us  now  ejaculate  a  wish  that  we  had  been  born  then, 
to  have  put  in  for  our  share  of  the  common  chance.  Mr.  Denton 
says,  here,  those  on  whom  fortune  hath  frowned  in  England, 
should  come — here  gain  an  inheritance  of  lands,  and  stock  of 
cattle — here  live  happily  while  they  live,  and  then  leave  a  benefit 
to  their  children  after  them.  Happy  land,  says  he,  where  nature 
hath  made  such  rich  provison  of  all  sorts  of  game,  of  wild  beasts, 
and  wild  fowl,  where  he  may  furnish  his  house  with  venison, 
turkies,  geese,  heath-hens,  swans,  ducks,  pigeons,  partridges, 
quails,  &c.,  and  when  wearied  with  the  pleasure  of  hunting,  he 
may  go  a  fishing,  where  the  rivers  are  so  furnished,  as  that  he  may 
fully  supply  himself  with  fish,  before  he  can  leave  off  the  recrea- 
tion. Travel  where  you  will,  you  see  no  poor  and  know  of  no 
beggars.  In  such  a  land,  you  travel  without  fear  of  robbers ; 
and  if  you  chance  to  come  across  an  Indian  town,  they  will  be 
sure  to  give  you  freely  of  their  best.  Such  is  the  healthfulness 
of  the  country,  that  families  for  twenty  years  have  not  been  met 
with  sickness — indeed  the  very  air  of  the  atmosphere  is  invigorat- 
ing, sending  forth  such  a  fragrance  from  its  flowers,  herbs,  and 
vegetation,  as  readily  to  be  noticed  at  sea  before  they  can  make 
the  land.  The  flowers  give  such  supply  to  honey  bees,  that  you 
can  scarcely  see  a  house,  which  is  not  on  the  south  side,  begirt 
with  its  hives  of  bees,  which  here  increase  after  an  incredible 
manner.  Truly  here  is  indeed  a  terrestrial  Canaan,  flowing  with 
milk  and  honey.  Truly  the  inhabitants  as  well  as  the  land  are 
blessed — ^blessed  with  peace  and  plenty ;  in  their  fields  and 
ground,  in  their  cattle,  in  their  basket  and  in  their  store  :  Every- 
thing is  a  picture  of  blessedness. 

Surely,  some  of  the  present  pains-taking  modems,  who  are 
talking  of  our  vaunted  improvements,  might  sigh  for  such  a 
former  state  of  repose  and  plenty.  On  some  such  impulse  of 
feeling  the  author  even  then,  apostrophizes  his  generation,  and 
says,  "how  free  are  those  parts  of  the  world  from  the  pride  and 
oppression,  with  their  miserable  effects,  with  which  many,  nay 
almost  all  parts  of  the  world  are  troubled,  which  being  ignorant 
of  that  pomp  and  bravery  which  aspiring  humours  are  servants 
to,  and  striving  after  almost  everywhere ;  where  a  wagon  or  cart 
gives  as  good  content  as  a  coach,  and  a  piece  of  home-made  cloth 
better  than  finest  lawns  or  richest  silks — where  if  their  low  roofed 
houses  may  seem  to  show  closed  doors  against  pride  and  luxury, 
they  do,  nevertheless,  stand  open  wide,  to  let  charity  in  and  out 
either  to  assist  each  other,  or  relieve  a  stranger !"     Do  any  now 


232  Remarkable  Fads  and  Incidents. 

covet  or  envy  the  picture, — let  them  go  and  try  to  emulate  it,  by 
going  to  Oregon.     That  is  now  what  New  York  once  was. 

The  author,  even  then,  admired  that  so  fine  a  country  should 
be  so  little  known  abroad.  He  gives  as  a  reason,  that  the  former 
Dutch  did  not  encourage  the  English  ;  that  they  also  chiefly  in- 
clined to  the  pursuit  of  the  beaver  trade,  to  the  neglect  of  agricul- 
tural improvements — that  they  also  made  themselves  unpopular 
by  exacting  the  tenth  of  all  which  men  produced  off  their  land. 
Soon  as  it  was  changed  to  EngUsh  rule,  the  country  as  he  thought, 
began  to  improve,  for  then  he  says,  "several  towns  of  a  consider- 
able greatness  were  begun  and  settled  by  people  out  of  New 
England,  and  every  day,  more  and  more  came  to  view  and  settle." 

New  York,  he  says,  is  then  built  most  of  brick  and  stone,  and 
covered  with  red  and  black  tile ;  and  seen  at  a  distance,  as  an 
elevated  site,  it  is  of  pleasing  aspect.  The  inhabitants  consist 
mostly  of  English  and  Dutch,  and  have  a  considerable  trade  with 
the  Indians,  for  beavers,  otters,  and  other  furs,  as  also  for  bear, 
deer,  and  elk  skins.  They  produce  some  tobacco,  as  good  as  of 
Maryland.  Long  Island,  is  then  spoken  of  as  "  inhabited  from 
one  end  to  the  other,"  while  up  the  North  river,  there's  no  settle- 
ments save  at  Esopus  ("  Sopers")  and  Albany.  The  west  end 
of  Long  Island,  then,  had  four  or  five  Dutch  towns,  the  rest  being 
all  English,  to  the  number  of  twelve,  besides  villages  and  farm- 
houses." Strawberries  then  abounded,  "so  much  so  in  June, 
that  the  fields  and  woods  were  dyed  red,  which  the  country  peo- 
ple perceiving,  would  go  forth  with  wine,  cream,  and  sugar ;  and 
instead  of  a  coat  of  mail,  every  one  takes  up  a  female  behind 
him  on  horseback,  and  starting  for  the  fields,  set  to  picking  the 
fruit,  and  regaling  themselves  as  long  as  they  last.  They  have 
also  cranberries,  raspberries,  plums  of  various  sorts,  and  huckle- 
berries. In  May,  the  woods  and  fields  were  curiously  bedecked 
with  roses,  and  an  innumerable  multitude  of  delightful  flowers ; 
all  of  which,  the  natives  say,  administer  relief  to  sundry  diseases." 

"  Upon  the  south  side  of  Long  Island,  in  the  winter,  lie  store  of 
whales  and  grampuses,  which  the  inhabitants  with  small  boats, 
begin  to  make  a  trade  of,  catching  them  to  no  small  benefit.  There 
is  also  an  innumerable  multitude  of  seals,  lying  all  winter  upon 
broken  marshes,  sand  bars,  and  beaches,  which  might  be  caught 
and  made  into  excellent  oil,  if  there  were  but  skilful  men  to  un- 
dertake it."     Now,  we  must  notice  that  there  are  no  seals  there. 

The  author  has  considerable  to  note  of  Indians,  but  nothing  of 
sufficient  circumstance  to  be  herein  stated.  He  speaks  of  their 
love  of  rum — their  making  their  wives  their  husbandmen — their 
superstition  in  their  powows.  They  buried  their  dead  sitting 
upright,  and  deposited  with  them  their  favourite  articles.  They 
made  much  use  of  greasing  and  painting  their  bodies,  and  having 
but  little  clothing.  They  seemed  even  then,  in  his  opinion,  a  de- 
based and  wasting  race. 


Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents.  233 

The  Rev.  "  C.  W."  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  church,  put  out 
a  little  journal  of  two  years'  residence  in  New  York,  which  he 
visited  in  the  year  1678.  The  London  edition  of  1701,  I  have 
seen,  and  made  my  extracts  thus,  viz. 

He  sailed  the  27th  May,  167S,  in  the  Blossom,  from  old  Eng- 
land, with  Gov.  Andros,  and  arrived  at  New  York  in  the  then 
ordinary  passage  on  the  7th  August !  Speaks  highly  of  the 
healthiness  of  the  place.  Of  the  natives  (Indians)  much  com- 
mends their  fine  forms,  and  says  the  women  so  hardily  bear  their 
children — instances  the  case  of  one  Harman  the  Indian,  in  Mar- 
bletown,  in  the  county  of  Ulster,  formerly  called  Sopus,  whose 
squaw,  to  harden  herself,  would  go  out  after  delivery  to  bring  in 
on  her  back  a  bundle  of  sticks.  The  Indians  grease  themselves 
to  preserve  their  skins  from  blistering  in  the  summer  sun,  and  as 
their  best  armour  against  musquitoes,  and  against  the  winter's 
cold.  Their  hairs  on  the  chin  they  pluck  out.  Their  breech  flaps 
they  tie  with  a  snake  skin  round  their  middles.  He  tells  the 
value  of  skins,  says  beavers  bring  10^.  per  pound  ;  an  ox-hide 
3d.  a  pound  wet,  6d.  dry.  Negroes  bring  30  to  ^640  a  head,  the 
same  which  cost  12  or  ^6 14  in  Barbadoes.  T/ie  price  of  provi- 
sions thus — Long  Island  wheat  3*.  a  skipple  {i.  e.  three  parts  of 
a  bushel),  Sopus  wheat  half  a  crown  a  skipple.  Bread  I8s.  per 
cwt.  Pork  £3  per  bbl.,  beef  30*.  Both  Indians  and  Dutch  are  ob- 
stinate and  incessant  smokers  of  tobacco.  The  latter  are  great 
eaters  of  sallads  and  bacon,  and  very  often  buttermilk.  Tobacco 
is  25fl?.  a  pound.  All  smoke  with  short  campaigne  pipes.  Their 
best  ale  is  made  of  wheat  malt.  Their  quaffing  liquors  are  rum 
punch  and  brandy  punch.  Their  sweet  wine  is  fiall.  The  Indians 
bruig  in  all  varieties  of  game,  selling  a  venison  for  3s.  Their 
dogs  are  young  wolves  stolen  when  young.  About  Christmas 
is  the  whaling  season  here — two  boats  of  six  men  each  make  up 
the  company ;  then  the  whales  come  on  from  the  north-east ;  a 
whale  of  sixty  feet  length  yields  about  forty  to  fifty  barrels  of  oil. 
Of  bears,  he  says  the  Indians  seek  them  in  companies  of  two  or 
three  to  be  secure  incase  of  only  wounding  them,  when  one 
person  would  be  attacked.  But,  says  he,  I  was  once,  with  good 
diversion  with  some  others,  where  in  an  orchard  of  Mr.  John 
Robinson's  of  New  York  they  followed  a  bear  from  tree  to  tree, 
upon  which  he  would  swarm  like  a  cat.  He  came  down  back- 
wards. He  says  that  pennyroyal  bruised  and  held  to  the  smell 
of  a  rattlesnake  will  soon  kill  it !  They  also  say  the  same  plant 
will  expel  a  dead  child,  and  it  is  also  a  remedy  for  a  venomous 
bite,  applied  to  the  wound.  Their  wigwams  are  made  of  bark 
set  upon  poles.  They  bring  many  oysters  and  fish  to  market  in 
their  canoes.  The  fort  at  New  York  is  one  of  the  strongest  in 
North  America,  and  when  taken  by  the  Dutch  was  the  fault  of 
Capt.  Manning,  who  suffered  it,  in  the  absence  of  the  governor; 
for  which  he  was  condemned  an  exile  to  a  small  island,  called 
30  V  2 


294  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents. 

from  his  name  Manning  Island,  where  /  have  heen  several 
times,  with  the  said  captain,  whose  entertainment  was  commonly 
a  bowl  of  rum  punch.  The  Dutch  women  almost  always  wear 
slippers  (down  at  heel).  They  have  another  custom  peculiar, 
which  is  that  they  feast  freely  and  merrily  at  the  funeral  of  any 
friend,  eating  and  drinking  very  plentifully,  as  I  have  seen. 

The  betrothed  Indian  woman,  covers  her  face  like  Rebecca,  a 
whole  year  before  she  is  married.  Her  husband  does  not  lie 
with  his  squaw,  whilst  the  child  has  (not)  done  sucking,  which  is 
commonly  two  years,  for  they  say  the  milk  will  not  be  good,  if 
they  get  children  so  fast.  They  bury  the  body  sitting  upon  their 
heels,  and  put  with  them  their  weapons  and  wampum,  &c.  like 
those  in  Ezek.  32  :  27.  They  make  thread  of  Indian  hemp.  They 
were  smart  at  cutting  trees  with  a  flint  axe.  They  eat  the  lice 
they  find  in  one  another's  heads,  and  say  they  are  wholesome ! 
All  the  companies  he  met  of  them,  out  of  town,  all  bowed  head 
and  knee  ta  him,  calling  him  the  Sacka-makers'  Kakin-do-ivet, 
i.  e.  the  governor's  minister.  Their  war  paint  is  black,  for  peace 
red.  Their  tribes  near  on  Long  Island  were  at  Rockaway ;  2d, 
Sea-qua-ta-cy,  to  the  south  of  Huntingdon ;  3d,  Unckal-chau-ge  ; 
4th,  Setauch,  Setauchet  North ;  5th,  Ocqua-bang  Southold  ;  6th, 
Shin-n-cock,  Southampton  the  greatest  tribe ;  7th,  Mun-tauck,  to 
the  eastward  of  East  Hampton.  Top-paum  has  one  hundred  and 
fifty  fighting  men.  The  West  Chester  Indians  have  seventy-five 
fighting  men.     The  Na-usin  or  Neversinks  are  but  few. 

At  New  York  he  was  minister  and  teacher  to  the  English, 
there  were  also  two  others,  a  Lutheran,  the  other  a  Calvinist  Low 
Dutchman,  very  shy  and  averse  to  each  other's  creeds,  called 
Domines,  who  spoke  Latin  fluently,  to  the  shame  of  our  A.  M. 
himself!  The  English  observed  one  of  their  customs  the  New  Year, 
and  many  presents  were  sent  to  him  from  the  English  residents 
there,  a  measure  he  thought  to  be  equally  kind  and  singular. 

New  York  in  1678,  as  seen  by  Gov.  Andros's  chaplain.  He  said 
that  Fredk.  Phillips  was  deemed  the  richest  Mun  Heer  there,  and 
that  he  had  whole  hogsheads  of  Indian  money,  or  ivampum.  Per- 
sons could  then  buy  plantations  at  two  to  three  pence  an  acre  ; 
all  covered  with  wood,  under  a  permit  from  the  governor.  So 
much  encouragement  for  settlers  !  but  if  inclined  to  merchandize, 
then  to  pay  £3  12^.  \ld.  fees,  or  six  beavers,  (for  the  privilege 
of  trading,)  and  they  may  turn  cent  for  cent,  on  what  they  may 
import  from  London  ;  fifty  per  cent,  is  but  an  indifferent  advance 
considered  !  So  he  took  his  shipments, — what  he  paid  £43  for  in 
furs,  he  received  ^680  for  in  London.  Horses  there  were  rarely 
shod,  and  their  feet  became  like  flints,  by  running  in  the  woods. 
The  city  was  as  large  as  some  Market  towns  in  England,  all 
being  built  the  London  way.  The  garrison,  side  of  a  high  situa- 
tion, and  a  pleasant  prospect.  The  diversion,  especialty  in  the 
winter  by  the  Dutch,  is  aurigation,  i.  e.  riding  about  in  wagons, 


Rtmarkahle  Facts  and  Incidents.  23o 

and  upon  the  ice,  it  is  admirable  to  see  men  and  women,  as  if 
Jlying  upon  their  skates,from  place  to  place,  with  marketing  upon 
their  heads  and  backs.  He  concludes,  that  its  seasons  and  heal- 
thiness are  so  bracing  and  so  delightfully  felt,  that  he  could  invite 
cordially  English  gentry,  merchants  and  clergy  to  go  thither  even 
if  they  be  of  hypohcondriacal  consumption :  only,  if  it  were  not 
for  the  passage — oh  the  passage  thither  is  hie  labour,  hoc  opus 
est !  The  ship  may  founder,  or  she  may  be  taken  by  a  Pickeroon. 
He  went  home  to  England  in  a  Quaker's  ship,  and  should  have 
fared  ill  enough  with  the  nauseous  old  water,  had  not  the  gov- 
ernor's lady  kindly  provided  him  with  a  rundlet  of  Madeira. 

Smuggling  before  the  Revolution.  I  have  been  told  by  respect- 
able commercial  gentlemen,  who  were  in  business  at  New  York 
before  the  revolution,  that  it  was  a  common  every  day  affair  to 
smuggle  contraband  goods  ashore,  at  many  places  on  Long  Island 
and  Staten  Island.  They  would  even  unload  in  day  time  with- 
out any  fear  of  informers,  who  were  held  to  be  odious,  and  were 
visited  with  tar  and  feathers  too.  The  measure  itself,  was  entirely 
in  harmony  with  the  will  of  the  people,  who  considered  that  in 
proportion  to  their  success,  they  would  profit  by  the  lowness  of 
the  prices.  Besides,  they  all  deemed  it  to  be  unreasonable,  that 
they  should  be  taxed  to  raise  funds  to  be  sent  and  spent  abroad. 
In  that  Avay,  much  of  the  tea,  gin,  china,  and  sundry  dry-goods, 
came  out  from  Holland ;  other  goods  came  from  St.  Eustatia  as 
an  intermediate  port.  Some  of  the  best  names,  now  known  in 
New  York  as  independent  men,  attained  their  wealth  in  the 
Dutch  contraband  commerce.  The  king's  officers,  too,  felt  the 
unpopularity  of  their  position,  and  seemed  well  disposed  to  con- 
nive at  things  not  actually  seen  by  themselves.  For  instance, 
several  vessels  used  to  unload  by  night  and  day  at  a  cove  on 
Staten  Island,  within  a  mile  of  Amboy,  where  the  king's  officers 
of  the  customs,  were  estabUshed.  The  inside  of  the  sound  along 
Long  Island,  was  also  a  frequent  and  favourite  place  of  discharge. 
The  teas  which  came  from  England,  were  of  course  subject  to 
duties,  and  paid  highly — and  every  family  thought  themselves 
interested  to  have  them  low.  [The  fact  may  serve  to  teach  our- 
selves, even  now,  that  the  best  way  to  secure  good  faith  towards 
our  own  revenue,  will  be  to  make  them  moderate  and  acceptable 
to  the  mass  of  the  people  :  else  we  offer  a  lure  to  create  and  foster 
corruption.] 

It  was  not  considered  infamous  then,  as  now,  because  the  peo- 
ple thought  themselves  oppressed  by  the  exclusive  measures  of 
the  parent  country,  in  monopolizing  trade.  It  was  considered 
that  the  duties  were  not  for  ourselves,  but  for  remote  crown  offi- 
cers and  favourites.  Informers  therefore  were  held  in  great  de- 
testation, and  were  almost  sure  to  meet  with  tar  and  feathers,  or 
worse.  Kelly  and  Kitchener  at  New  York,  having  informed 
against  the  mate  of  a  vessel,  who  had  invested  his  wages  in  wine 


236  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents. 

to  make  a  little  profit,  were  seized  by  the  populace  and  paraded  by 
them  through  the  streets  in  a  cart,  their  faces  and  clothes  smeered 
with  tar  and  sprinkled  with  feathers.  The  same  was  done  to  a 
person  at  the  drawbridge  at  Philadelphia,  in  1769.  At  Newport 
the  people  seized  an  informer,  placed  him  in  the  pillory,  and 
then  gave  him  tar  and  feathers.  At  Boston,  a  person  informing 
against  a  vessel  from  Rhode  Island  which  had  landed  a  cask  of 
wine,  was  seized  and  his  naked  skin  well  tarred  and  feathered, 
and  paraded  about  in  a  cart  holding  in  hi^T  hand  a  lighted  lanthorn. 

We  give  a  pleasant  description  of  St.  Nicholas'  day,  in  which 
is  happily  depicted  many  of  the  passing  changes  of  the  times : 

SAINT  NICHOLAS'  DAY. 

A  safe  arrival  to  Saint  Nicholas  to  night 

Through  all  the  windings  of  dark  Anthracite. 

I  fear  not  one  Dutch  chimney  can  be  found 

In  which  the  saint  may  turn  his  carriage  round — 

That  magic  coach,  so  famed  in  olden  times, 

And  drawn  by  tiny  steeds  from  distant  climes ; 

Ah,  well  I  recollect  the  ample  space. 

Where  little  people  did  their  stockings  place, 

Then  sit  delighted  round  the  hickory  blaze 

And  watch  the  chimney  with  expectant  gaze. 

Discussing  all  they  thought  the  dawn  would  show, 

And  wondering  where'  Saint  Nicholas  next  would  go. 

And  when  the  anxious  night  was  passed 

And  the  wished  morning  came  at  last, 

Then  each  with  haste  the  knot  untied 

And  open  flew  the  stocking  wide. 

Disclosing  such  a  bounteous  store, 

No  little  mortals  would  desire  more ; 

And  oh,  what  smiling,  happy  dimpled  faces, 

What  laughing,  shouting,  capering  and  grimaces, 

What  ships  and  tops,  and  bounding  balls. 

And  sugar'd  fruits,  and  toys  and  dolls, 

What  pleasure  sparkling  in  each  youthful  eye. 

How  free  from  care — how  full  of  ecstasy — 

But  children  now,  have  so  much  wiser  grown 

That  all  their  simple  pleasures  are  unknown. 

And  little  urchins  who  may  read  my  rhymes 

Will  call  them  silly  traits,  of  by-gone  times. 

Saint  Nicholas,  must  marvel  much  to  see 

Such  alterations  in  old  Albany, 

And  when  he  looks,  the  gable  ends  to  spy, 

A  gilded  dome  will  strike  his  wandering  eye 

Instead  of  Holland  bricks,  and  simple  tiles, 

Ionic  temples  from  the  Grecian  Isles  ; 

Our  great  grand  sires  could  hardly  tell  the  models, 

But  people  now  a  days,  have  wiser  noddles. 

Old  Pearl,  I  knew,  a  pleasant  quiet  street. 

Snug  houses  and  neat  stoops,  where  friends  would  often  meet. 

The  men  with  pipes,  cock'd  hats  and  fine  long  queues, 

The  girls  with  white  short  gowns,  stuff  petticoats  and  high  heel  shoes, 

And  knitting  at  the  side,  and  fingers  going. 

And  now  and  then  a  tender  glance  bestowing. 


Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents,  237 

Soon  as  the  old  Dutch  bell  rung  out  for  eight, 

Tlie  bolt  was  drawn  upon  the  little  gate, 

The  table  set — and  for  our  supper 

Supaan  and  milk,  and  bread  and  butter. 

And  Pearl  street  claims  the  mead  of  praise 

For  changing  all  these  good  old  ways ; 

Now  she  has  courts,  with  grass  and  roses, 

(Not  pinkster  blumies,  nor  Dutch  posies,) 

With  seats  of  learning  classical  and  pure. 

Pity  such  columns  cannot  long  endure. 

I  own  my  vision  was  at  first  astounded 

By  church  and  houses,  somehow  so  confounded. 

And  something  on  the  top  I  see 

Like  what  the  French  call  fleur  de  lis. 

But  altogether  'tis  imposing, 

And  I'm  no  critic's  skill  disclosing. 

But  merely  as  an  idle  passer  by 

Note  down  what  happens  to  attract  my  eye. 

Then  there  are  squares,  and  parks  and  pailings. 

No  wooden  stiles — but  iron  railings, 

And  mansions  towering  in  height. 

With  plate  glass  windows,  clear  and  bright — 

Marble  and  granite — ^and  such  domes. 

Old  Dutchmen  scarcely  know  their  homes. 

And  Knickerbockers  of  the  day 

Are  sometimes  seen  to  lose  their  way. 

A  study  too  is  all  the  fashion 

Call'd  bumps — denoting  any  passion. 

And  these  are  found  to  my  surprise 

On  cheek,  and  mouth,  and  nose  and  eyes , 

Now  little  hills  upon  the  face 

I  humbly  think  quite  out  of  place. 

But  mountains  on  the  head  are  seen. 

And  no  doubt  rivers  flow  between ; 

All  these  to  every  crani-lover 

Some  strange  propensities  discover. 

Saint  Nicholas  would  wonder  most  of  all. 

Were  he  to  see  the  City  Hall. 

Dutch  worthies  there  have  been  forgot. 

And  in  their  place,  is  Walter  Scott. 

Now  Holland's  history  proclaims 

A  list  of  great  and  brilliant  names. 

And  Holland's  sons  should  love  to  show. 

How  much  to  these  great  names  they  owe. 

Here  let  me  make  this  declaration, 

Good  men  I  love  of  every  nation, 

I  like  the  Scotch — a  clever  race. 

But  think  Sir  Walter  out  of  place. 

My  time  is  limited,  and  I, 

Must  bid  my  ancient  friends  good  bye, 

I  came  to  celebrate  the  day. 

And  to  our  Saint,  my  homage  pay,  1835. 

St.  Nicholas  was  bom  on  the  6th  of  December,  in  the  year  343, 
at  Patura  a  city  of  Lycia,  of  reputable  parents,  who  early  initiated 
him  in  the  doctrines  of  the  Christian  faith,  which  he  practised  in 
so  exemplary  a  manner  as  to  reach  the  ear,  and  to  receive  the 


238  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents. 

patronage  of  Constantine  the  Great,  and  through  him  became  the 
head  of  the  church,  or  Bishop  of  Myra. 

His  legendary  Ufe  abounds  too  greatly  with  absurd  statements 
of  miraculous  powers,  to  warrant  recital,  beyond  what  is  abso- 
lutely necessary  in  explanation  of  the  origin  of  some  of  the 
patronages  which  superstition  formerly  assigned  to  him,  and 
which  are  yet  credited  by  those  of  the  Latin  and  Greek  churches. 

When  he  was  an  infant,  and  consequently  dependent  upon  the 
sustenance  with  which  Providence  has  so  bountifully  provided 
the  female  parent,  he  never  could  be  induced  to  receive  such 
natural  support,  on  Wednesdays  or  Fridays;  a  virtuous  and 
exemplary  attention  to  the  ordinances  of  the  church,  which  'tf 
marked  him— justly,  could  we  but  believe  the  fable,  "  as  a  pattern 
for  future  infants,"  and  caused  him  to  be  regarded  as  their 
peculiar  saint  and  patron,  under  the  endearing  title  of  "  Child 
Bishop." 

Numerous  free  schools  were  established  for  the  instruction  of 
youth,  under  the  patronage  of  St.  Nicholas,  their  great  friend. 
And  before  the  reformation,  the  election  of  what  was  known  by 
the  title  of  Boy  Bishop,  or  Episcopus  Puerorum  in  the  cathedrals 
in  England,  has  been  considered  to  have  had  its  origin  from  the 
alleged  attachment  of  the  saint  to  the  rising  generation.  He  is 
styled  in  several  of  the  legends  as  "  the  glorious  confessor."  His 
was  the  peculiar  honour  of  being  worshipped  by  those  of  almost 
every  country  "  whose  march  was  on  the  mountain  wave,  and 
whose  home  was  on  the  deep."  In  illustration  of  this  fact,  there 
was  scarcely  a  place  of  any  note  on  the  coast  of  Europe,  or 
adjoining  the  principal  rivers,  but  what  traces  of  temples  of  wor- 
ship could  be  found,  that  were  put  under  his  protection,  and 
enriched  by  offerings  from  mariners,  fishermen  and  others,  as 
well  as  by  merchants  trading  beyond  sea. 

Dutch  taste. — The  last  specimens  of  the  old  Dutch  taste  in 
building  have  now,  says  the  New  York  Transcript,  nearly  dis- 
appeared from  our  city ;  but  they  are  still  to  be  seen  in  great 
abundance  a  few  miles  out  in  the  country.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  on  Long  Island,  among  the  farmers,  as  may  be  seen  in 
Brooklyn,  Flatbush,  Gravesend,  &c.  There  may  be  seen  houses 
with  bevel  roofs,  from  a  story  to  a  story  and  a  half  high,  with  the 
gable  end  to  the  street,  and  the  shingles  on  the  said  gable  end 
tastefully  rounded  at  their  lower  ends,  and  looking  all  along  their 
lower  edge  like  the  herring-bone  of  a  quilted  petticoat ;  while  on 
both  sides  of  the  houses  are  wide  projecting  eaves,  sufficient  to 
defend  two  companies  of  men,  rank  and  file,  from  the  hardest 
shower.  So  much  for  the  houses.  The  barns  are  low,  with  high 
roofs,  and  almost  invariably  painted  red.  In  allusion  to  this  latter 
taste,  a  gentleman,  the  other  day,  asked  a  descendant  of  one  of 
the  old  original  settlers,  why  it  was  that  the  barns  were  always 
painted  of  that  colour.  He  replied,  "  It  is  the  Dutch  coat  of  arms." 


Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents,  239 

"  The  Dutch  coat  of  arms  ?    Well,  what  does  that  mean  ?" 
"  Why,  it  means  that  white  paint  costs  a  shilling  a  pound,  while 
the  red  only  costs  fourpence." 

This  explanation  appeared  very  rational,  and  the  questioner 
was  satisfied.  For  our  part,  we  like  to  see  these  ancient  speci- 
mens of  the  Knickerbocker  taste.  They  exhibit  economy,  and 
they  are,  moreover,  as  it  were  connecting  links  with  the  tastes, 
feelings,  and  notions  of  the  olden  time,  which  the  rage  of  modern 
improvement  is  doing  its  best  to  drive  entirely  into  the  ocean  of 
oblivion. 


THE  FEDERAL  PROCESSION  AND  SHIP  HAMILTON, 

AS  THEY  PASSED  ALONG  THE  STREETS  IN  NEW  YORK,  IN  1788, 

TO    CELEBRATE     THE    ADOPTION     OF     THE     FEDERAL     CONSTITUTION. TO    WIT. 

In  the  seventh  division  there  appeared  a  frigate  of  thirty-two 
guns,  twenty-seven  feet  keel,  and  ten  feet  beam,  with  galleries 
and  every  thing  complete,  and  in  proportion,  both  in  hull  and 
rigging ;  manned  with  upwards  of  thirty  seamen  and  marines  in 
their  different  uniforms ;  commanded  by  Commodore  Nicholson, 
and  drawn  by  ten  horses. 


n 


-I    I,-,..  ,,   ,..,. -..,„  H 


At  the  hour  appointed  for  the  procession  to  move,  thirteen  guns 
were  fired  from  the  ship,  as  a  signal  for  marching.  She  then  got 
under  way,  with  her  topsails  a-trip  and  coursers  in  the  brails, 
proceeding  in  the  centre  of  the  procession.  When  abreast  of 
Beaver  street  she  made  the  proper  signal  for  a  pilot,  by  hoisting 
a  jack  at  the  foretop-mast  head,  and  firing  a  gun.  The  pilot  boat 
appearing  upon  her  weather  quarter,  the  frigate  threw  her  main 
topsail  to  the  mast ;  the  boat  hailed,  and  asked  the  necessary 
questions  ;  the  pilot  was  received  aboard  and  the  boat  dismissed. 
The  frigate  then  filled  and  moved  abreast  of  the  fort,  where  the 
crew  discovered  the  President  and  members  of  Congress.  She 
immediately  brought  to  and  fired  a  salute  of  thirteen  guns,  which 
was  followed  by  three  cheers,  and  politely  answered  by  the  gen- 
tlemen of  Congress.  The  procession  then  moved ;  when  the  ship 
came  opposite  to  Mr.  Constable's,  the  crew  discovered  at  the 
window  Mrs.  Edgar,  who  had  generously  honoured  the  ship  with 


240  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents. 

the  present  of  a  suit  of  silk  colours  ;  immediately  they  manned 
the  ship  and  gave  three  cheers.  When  she  arrived  abreast  of 
the  old  slip,  she  was  saluted  by  thirteen  guns  from  his  most  Cath- 
olic Majesty's  packet,  then  in  the  harbour,  which  was  politely 
returned.  She  then  made  sail  and  proceeded  through  Queen  street 
to  the  fields,  when  squalls  came  on,  and  the  wind  ahead,  she  beat 
to  windward  by  short  tacks,  in  which  the  pilot  displayed  his  skill 
in  navigation,  heaving  the  lead,  getting  ready  for  stays,  putting 
the  helm  a  lee,  by  bracing  and  counter-bracing  the  yards,  &c. 
In  the  fields,  she  had  to  descend  several  hills,  in  rising  which 
she  afforded  a  delightful  prospect  to  the  spectators,  her  top- 
sails appearing  first  and  then  her  hull,  in  imitation  of  a  ship  at 
sea ;  exhibiting  an  appearance  beyond  description  splendid  and 
majestic.  When  she  arrived  at  her  station  abreast  of  the  dining 
tables,  she  clewed  up  her  top-sails  and  came  to,  in  close  order 
with  the  rest  of  the  procession,  the  officers  going  ashore  to  dine. 
At  four  o'clock  she  gave  the  signal  for  marching,  by  a  discharge 
of  thirteen  guns,  when  the  procession  moved  by  the  lower  road. 
The  manner  in  which  the  ship  made  her  passage  through  the  nar- 
row  parts  of  the  road,  was  highly  interesting  and  satisfactory, 
being  obliged  to  run  under  her  foretop-sail,  in  a  squall,  and 
keep  in  the  line  of  procession ;  this  was  accomplished  with  great 
hazard,  by  the  good  conduct  of  the  commander  and  the  assiduity 
of  the  seamen  and  pilot ;  she  arrived  at  her  moorings  abreast 
of  the  Bowling  Green  at  half  past  five,  amidst  the  acclamations 
of  thousands ;  and  the  different  orders  in  the  procession,  as  soon  as 
they  were  dismissed,  honoured  her  with  three  cheers,  as  a  mark  of 
approbation  for  the  good  conduct  of  the  Commodore  and  his  crew. 

The  ship  Betsey  and  her  voyage  round  the  world.  1797-9. 
By  Captain  Edmund  Fanning. 

This  elegant  little  ship  of  ninety  odd  tons  (first  rigged  as  a  brig) 
which  was  built  in  1792,  was  a  matter  of  great  interest  to  the 
good  city  of  Gotham  in  her  day.  She  was  constructed  in  superior 
style  for  a  Charleston  packet,  under  Captain  Motley,  and  what 
was  strange  to  the  Gothamites  of  that  day,  and  may  be  still 
stranger  to  us  now,  she  was  built  so  ?//>  in  the  town,  as  to  have 
been  launched  across  three  streets,  and  to  have  occupied  three 
days  in  the  launching.  She  was  built  on  blocks  set  in  Cheapside 
street,  a  fancy  or  convenience  of  the  master  builder  to  build  her 
before  his  own  door,  and  was  first  launched  into  George  street 
(now  called  Market  street),  then  down  into  Cherry  street,  then 
across  to  Water  street,  and  finally  over  the  dock  into  the  East 
river!  Her  first  voyage  in  1797  to  go  round  the  world,  under 
Captain  Fanning,  was  a  company  concern  for  commercial  enter- 
prise in  the  South  seas  and  Pacific  ocean,  and  resulted  in  her 
coming  home  at  the  end  of  two  years  with  a  valuable  cargo  of 
silks,  teas,  china,  and  nankeens  from  China,  with  a  healthy  crew 
of  young  fellows,  all  decked  in  china  silk  jackets  and  blanched 


Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents.  241 

chip-hats,  trimmed  with  blue  ribbons.  The  ship  presented  a 
daily  sight  at  the  Flymarket  wharf,  where  hundreds  were  daily 
visiters,  to  see  the  ship  of  war  in  beautiful  miniature  with  her  bat- 
tery tier,  fore  and  aft.  The  whole  voyage  was  a  fortunate 
adventure,  and  resulted  in  1000  dollars  apiece  to  the  seamen,  and 
sundry  gifts  of  silks,  nankeens,  &c. 

In  the  year  1800  he  made  his  second  voyage  in  the  corvette 
ship  Aspasia  of  twenty-two  guns,  under  commission  of  the 
United  States,  having  five  lieutenants  and  eight  midshipmen,  &c., 
and  discovering  several  new  islands,  and  opening  new  places  of 
trade  and  profit. 

It  was  to  this  style  of  fortunate  exploration  and  beginning, 
that  we  are  indebted  for  our  subsequent  successful  adventures  in 
the  Pacific  ocean,  and  South  seas,  as  told  more  at  large  in  the 
published  "  Voyages  round  the  world"  of  the  same  Captain 
Fanning,  who  has  been  called  by  the  British  Reviewers  a  second 
Cook.*  It  was  he  who  by  his  first  and  subsequent  voyages  set 
in  motion  our  annual  fleets  of  whale  ships,  to  seek  cargoes  of 
sandal  wood,  seals,  fur,  beach-la-mer,  birds'  nests,  mother  of  pearl, 
pearls,  sharks'  fins,  turtle  shell,  and  all  the  cargoes  of  oil,  &c., 
thus  enriching  our  citizens,  creating  and  employing  hardy  and 
experienced  seamen,  and  bringing  into  the  national  treasury 
millions  of  dollars  of  revenue !  Finally,  it  is  the  same  master  spirit, 
who  by  his  memorials  and  personal  applications  and  explanations 
to  Congress  and  the  national  rulers,  has  been  actively  employed 
in  getting  up  and  finally  accomplishing,  the  departure  of  the 
national  exploring  expedition  to  the  south  pole,  &c.  He  died  at 
New  York  in  1841,  at  the  age  of  seventy  years. 

Steam  Packets  to  Europe.  On  the  22d  and  23d  April,  1838, 
arrived  at  New  York,  the  famed  new  steam  packets,  the  Syrius, 
and  Great  Western,  the  former  of  700  tons,  from  Cork,  in  eigh- 
teen days,  and  the  latter,  of  1 300  tons,  from  Bristol,  in  sixteen 
days.  Their  arrival  was  greeted,  with  much  pomp  and  ceremony, 
by  the  citizens  and  public  authorities, — vide  the  Gazettes  of  the 
day.  They  treated  it  however  as  too  much  of  a  new  wonder, 
and  as  a  first  successful  experiment,  loading  the  British  officers 
of  the  vessels  with  honours,  as  if  they  had  performed  a  new 
thing.  This  was  overlooking  facts  in  the  case.  There  had  been 
a  steam  packet  of  their  own  arrived  about  three  weeks  before, 
which  had  gone  out  to  the  West  Indies,  her  first  voyage,  safely, 
and  went  from  Jamaica  to  Norfolk  and  Baltimore.  She  was  of 
smaller  size,  and  excited  but  little  attention,  called  the  City  of 
Kingston,  of  325  tons,  schooner  rigged.  It  is  however  due  to 
ourselves  as  Americans  to  say,  that  as  many  as  eighteen  years 
before,  the  New  Yorkers  had  themselves  made  the  successful 

*  His  work  had  been  republished  with  commendation  in  England,  and  also 
translated  into  French,  and  published  in  France. 

31  X 


242  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents. 

experiment  of  traversing  the  Atlantic  and  northern  seas  in  the 
steam  ship  Savannah,  commanded  by  Captain  Moses  Rogers. 
She  sailed  from  New  York  in  March  1819,  went  to  Savannah, 
left  Savannah  the  25th  May,  arrived  at  Liverpool  the  20th  June, 
left  there  23d  July  for  St.  Petersburg,  moored  off  Cronstadt  the 
5th  September,  left  there  the  10th  October,  and  arrived  again  at 
Savannah  on  the  30th  November.  All  this  without  accident  or 
harm.  She  stopped  four  days  at  Copenhagen,  and  four  days  at 
Arundel  in  Norway.  She  was  visited  by  the  emperor  of  Russia, 
and  also  by  the  king  of  Sweden,  Bernadotte,  and  each,  making 
Captain  Rogers  a  present,  as  a  token  of  their  approbation  of  his 
skill  and  enterprise.  The  Savannah  afterwards  went  to  Constan- 
tinople, where  Captain  Rogers  also  received  a  present  from  the 
Grand  Seignor.  The  present  from  the  emperor  of  Russia  might 
seem  singular :  It  was  a  silver  teakettle,  a  first  noticed  generator 
and  condenser  of  steam !  These  facts  of  steam  ship  enterprise, 
should  forcibly  remind  us  of  "  poor  Fitch,"  as  he  called  himself, 
when  he  wrote  to  Mr.  Rittenhouse,  in  June  1792  (one  of  his 
shareholders),  saying,  "•  This,  sir,  will  be  the  mode  of  crossing 
the  Atlantic  in  time,  whether  I  shall  bring  it  to  perfection  or 
not !  !  !" 

Closing  of  the  Hudson,  by  ice,  to  wit : — On  Feb.  3,  1790,  and 
1802  ;  Jan.  12,  1795  ;  Jan.  23, 1796  ;  Jan.  6,  1800 ;  Jan.  3,  1801  ; 
Jan.  12,  1804;  Jan.  9,  1806;  Jan.  4,  1808;  Jan.  19,  1810: 
Jan.  5,  1825;  Jan.  11,  1830;  Dec.  31,  1832.  The  earliest  times 
of  closing  in  the  foregoing  period  was  on  the  30th  Nov.  1820. 
The  earliest  opening  of  the  river  when  it  was  free  of  ice,  was 
the  8th  Feb.  1828.  The  latest  was  April  4,  1836.  [The  facts 
were  noted  at  the  New  York  University.] 

Yankee  Doodle.  It  may  interest  some  to  know  that  we  have 
reasons  enough  to  satisfy  ourselves,  that  this  now  popular  national 
air,  was  first  bestowed  upon  us,  by  British  officers,  in  colonial 
times.  They  applied  it  chiefly  on  the  people  of  the  Eastern 
States,  as  being  once  the  willingly  confessed  "  children  of  Oliver 
Cromwell,"  whose  name  and  politics  they  professed  to  approve. 
He  in  his  time  had  been  nicknamed  Nankee  Doodle  by  the  cava- 
liers, in  verses  set  to  the  jig  tune  of  Lydia  Locket  ;  they  saying 
in  the  former  case,  . 

"  Nankee  doodle  come  to  town 
Upon  a  little  pony, 
With  a  feather  in  his  hat 
Upon  a  maccaroni,"  &c. 

When  hostilities  were  beginning  at  Boston,  our  affected  military 
masters  there,  began  to  parody  the  foregoing,  by  jeering  us  with 
verses  like  these,  viz  : 

"  Yankee  doodle  came  to  town 
For  to  buy  a  fire-lock, 
We  will  tar  and  feather  him  ; 
And  so  we  will  John  Hancock.''^ 


Former  Trinity  Church,  razed  1840-1,  p.  243. 


Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents,  243 

The  word  Yankee  was,  we  suppose,  substituted  for  the  former 
Nankee,  as  expressing  the  name  which  the  Indians  had  used  as 
their  pronunciation  of  English,  which  they  usually  called  Yengee. 

The  Americans,  aware  that  the  term  Yankee  was  bestowed 
on  them  as  a  term  of  derision,  felt  moved  to  strike  up  that  air 
when  they  compelled  the  retreat  of  the  British  from  Lexington,  as 
if  they  intended  to  say,  mark  what  we  Yankees  can  do !  The 
same,  they  did  when  they  compelled  their  surrender  at  Saratoga 
and  Yorktown. — More  extended  facts  and  illustrations  on  the 
present  subject,  may  be  seen  in  the  Annals  of  Philadelphia. 

Uncle  Sam,  is  another  national  appellation  applied  to  us,  by 
ourselves,  and  which,  as  it  is  growing  into  popular  use,  and  was 
first  used  at  Troy,  New  York,  it  may  be  interesting  to  explain, 
to  wit :  The  name  grew  out  of  the  letters  E.  A.  U.  S.  marked 
upon  the  army  provisions,  barrelled  up  at  Troy,  during  the  last 
war  with  England,  under  the  contract  of  Elbert  Anderson  ;  and 
implied  his  name,  and  U.  S.  the  United  States.  The  inspector 
of  those  provisions,  was  Samuel  Wilson,  who  was  usually  called 
by  the  people.  Uncle  Sam.  It  so  happened  that  one  of  the 
workmen,  being  asked  the  meaning  of  the  initials  on  the  casks, 
&c.,  waggishly  replied,  they  meant  Elbert  Anderson  and  Uncle 
Sam — Wilson.  The  joke  took  ;  and  afterwards,  when  some  of 
the  same  men  were  on  the  frontiers,  and  saw  the  same  kind  of 
provisions  arriving  to  their  use,  they  would  jocosely  say,  here 
comes  Uncle  Sam.  From  thence  it  came  to  pass,  that  whenever 
they  saw  the  initials  U.  S.,  on  any  class  of  stores,  they  were 
equally  called  Uncle  Sam^s ;  and  finally,  it  came  by  an  easy 
transition,  to  be  applied  to  the  United  States  itself. 

Great  Trinity  Church  Cause. — By  an  advertisement  in  this 
day's  paper,  says  the  New  York  Herald,  the  parties  to  the  great 
suit  in  Chancery,  respecting  the  property  of  Trinity  Church,  are 
called  upon  by  G.  Sullivan,  Esq.,  counsel  in  the  case,  to  listen 
and  hear  the  decision  of  the  Court  of  Errors  next  month. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  causes  ever  tried  in  this 
State.  The  property  in  question  was  formerly  called  the  "  Queen's 
Farm,"  and  extended  to  a  great  extent  over  the  present  site  of 
oiu:  city.  Anneke  Jants,  a  fine,  fat,  hearty  Dutch  vrou,  owned 
it  about  a  century  ago.  Trinity  Church  has  been  in  possession 
since  that  time.  The  property  is  now  valued  at  thirty  millions 
of  dollars,  and  its  yearly  revenue  at  three  millions,  which  by 
charter  is  far  beyond  what  Trinity  Church  is  authorized  to  hold. 
Numerous  and  vital  interests  in  this  city  are  pending  on  the  deci- 
sion. If  the  Court  of  Errors  should  decide  in  favour  of  the  heirs, 
a  great  many  very  fashionable  people  who  now  live  out  of  Trinity 
Church,  will  have  to  give  up  their  splendid  establishments,  and 
betake  themselves  to  other  avocations — while  some  of  the  pretty 
descendants  of  Anneke  Jants  will  start  up  with  large  fortunes, 
and  bear  the  bell  away  in  Broadway,  in  the  soirees  and  saloons. 


244  Remarkable  Facts  and  Incidents. 

A  great  claim  had  been  made  upon  Trinity  Church  lots,  in  the 
city,  by  unthought  of  heirs.  In  April,  1839,  Smith  Harponding, 
a  journeyman  printer,  entered  suit  against  the  Reformed  Dutch 
Church,  for  the  value  of  twenty-five  millions  of  dollars  !  being 
the  value  of  a  tract  of  sixteen  acres,  bounded  by  Broadway, 
Maiden-lane,  Fulton,  Nassau,  and  John  streets  ;  his  documents 
were  voluminous.     His  suit  however,  failed  afterwards. 


While  this  chapter  is  passing  through  the  press,  we  copy  the 
following  from  a  New  York  paper,  without  vouching  for  its  truth, 
to  wit : 

Origin  of  steam  navigation,  Mr.  John  Hutchins,  of  Wil- 
liamsburgh,  has  got  out  a  Hthograph  representing  the  first  Steam- 
boat ever  constructed,  with  a  brief  account  of  the  locality  and 
accidents  attending  the  enterprise.  The  boat  was  that  of  John 
Fitch,  and  was  constructed  on  the  pond  known  as  "  the  Col- 
lect," which  covered  what  is  now  the  heart  of  the  sixth  ward 
of  our  city,  on  which  are  located  the  Halls  of  Justice,  City  Prison, 
&c.  The  water  was  in  some  places  fifty  feet  deep,  but  in  good 
part  shallow,  and  surrounded  by  boggy,  swampy  ground,  such  as 
may  now  be  found  on  the  upper  part  of  the  Island.  A  stream 
ran  thence  to  the  North  river,  nearly  on  the  line  of  our  present 
Canal  street.  On  this  pond,  Mr.  Fitch  launched  his  boat,  the 
first  rude  progenitor  of  our  modern  steamboats,  in  the  summer  of 
1796  or  '7 — say  fifty  years  ago.  Two  men  and  a  boy  were  with 
him  the  boy,  John  Hutchins,  who  survives  to  tell  the  stor3^ 
This  boat  had  both  paddlewheels  and  propellers,  after  a  fashion. 
The  paddlewheels  splashed  the  water  badly,  the  idea  of  covering 
them  with  a  box  not  having  yet  been  suggested.  It  would  propel 
itself  say  twice  around  the  pond,  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five  miles 
an  hour,  and  then  stop  to  take  in  water  and  heat  it  so  as  to  make 
more  steam.  This  was  six  years  before  Fulton  built  his  first  boat 
in  France,  and  ten  years  before  he  built  one  in  this  country.  The 
boat  was  finally  abandoned  by  the  projectors,  and  gradually 
broken  up  and  carried  off  for  firewood,  by  the  neighbouring 
squatters. 


Gardens,  Farms,  fyc.  245 


GARDENS,  FARMS,  ETC. 

"Yes,  he  can  e'en  replace  agen, 
The  forests  as  he  knew  them  then!" 

Mr.  Abram  Brower,  aged  seventy-five,  in  1828,  says  that  in 
his  youth  he  deemed  himself  "  out  of  town"  about  where  now 
stands  the  Hospital  on  Broadway.  Blackberries  were  then  so 
abundant  as  never  to  have  been  sold. 

Jones  had  a  "  Ranelagh  Garden"  near  the  hospital ;  and 
"  Vauxhall  Garden,"  where  they  exhibited  fire-works,  was  at  the 
foot  of  Warren  street. 

At  Corlear's  Hook  all  was  in  a  state  of  woods,  and  it  was  usual 
to  go  there  to  drink  mead. 

The  Jirst  "  Drovers'  Inn,"  kept  so  near  the  city,  was  a  little 
above  St.  Paul's  church — kept  by  Adam  Vanderbarrack,  [spelt 
Vanderbergh  by  D.  Grim,  who  said  he  had  also  a  farm  there.] 

Bayard's  spring,  in  his  woods,  was  a  place  of  great  resort  of 
afternoons  ;  it  was  a  very  charming  spring,  in  the  midst  of  abun- 
dance of  hickory-nut  trees ;  tradesmen  went  there  after  their  after- 
noon work.  It  lay  just  beyond  Canal  street,  say  on  the  south  side 
of  present  Spring  street,  not  far  from  Varrick  street. 

In  the  year  1787,  Col.  Ramsay,  then  in  Congress,  considered 
himself  as  living  "out  in  the  country"  at  the  "White  Conduit 
house,"  situate  between  Leonard  and  Franklin  streets. 

"  Tea  Water  Pump  Garden,"  celebrated  for  its  excellent  pump 
of  water,  situate  on  Chatham  street  near  to  Pearl  street,  was 
deemed  a  "far  walk."  It  was  fashionable  to  go  there  to  drink 
punch,  &c. 

A  real  farm  house  in  the  city,  stood  as  an  ancient  relic  until 
eighteen  years  ago,  in  such  a  central  spot  as  the  corner  of  Pine 
and  Nassau  streets.  Mr.  Thorburn  saw  it,  and  was  told  so  by  its 
ancient  owner. 

The  old  Dutch  records  sufficiently  show,  that  in  primitive  days 
all  the  rear  of  the  town  was  cast  into  farms,  say  six  in  number, 
called  "Bouwerys;"  from  whence  we  have  "Bowery"  now. 
Van  Twiller  himself  had  his  mansion  on  farm  No.  1,  and  his 
tobacco  field  on  No.  3.  No.  1,  is  supposed  by  Mr.  Moulton's 
book,  to  have  been  "from  Wall  street  to  Hudson  street ;"  and 
No.  3,  "  at  Greenwich,  then  called  Tapohanican."  A  deed  of 
Gov.  Keift  to  Gov.  Van  Twiller  in  1638, calls  it  "a  tobacco  farm 
at  Sapo  Kanickan."  No.  4,  was  near  the  plain  of  Manhattan, 
including  the  Park  to  the  Kolck ;  and  No.  5  and  6  to  have  lain 
still  farther  to  the  northward. 

X  2 


246  Gardens,  Farms,  ^*c. 

The  ancient  bon-vivants  remember  still  "  Lake's  Hermitage" 
as  a  place  of  great  regale ;  the  house  and  situation  is  fine  even 
now ;  situated  now  near  the  sixth  avenue,  quite  in  the  country, 
but  then  approached  only  through  "  Love  Lane." 

The  ancient  mansion  and  farm  out  on  the  East  river,  at  the 
head  of  King's  road,  once  the  stately  establishment  of  Dr.  Ge- 
rardus  Beekman,  is  made  peculiarly  venerable  from  the  grandeur 
of  its  lofty  and  aged  elms  and  oaks ;  its  rural  aspect  and  deep 
shade  attracted  the  notice  of  Irving's  pen.  It  was  used  too  as  the 
selected  country  residence  of  General  Clinton  in  the  time  of  the 
war. 

Robert  Murray's  farm-house  in  this  neighbourhood  should  be 
venerable  from  its  associations.  There  his  patriot  lady  entertained 
Gen.  Howe  and  his  staff  with  refreshments,  after  their  landing 
with  the  army  at  "  Kip's  Bay,"  on  purpose  to  afford  Gen.  Put- 
nam time  to  lead  off  his  troops  in  retreat  from  the  city,  which  he 
effected.  She  was  a  Friend,  and  the  mother  of  the  celebrated 
Lindley  Murray. 

The  garden  of  "  Aunt  Katey,"  and  called  also  "  Katey  Mutz," 
was  spoken  of  by  every  aged  person,  and  was  peculiarly  notable 
as  a  "  Mead  Garden."  It  was  called  by  some  "  Windmill  Hill," 
in  reference  to  its  earlier  use ;  and  also  "  Gallows  Hill"  by  others, 
as  once  a  place  of  execution.  Its  location  was  on  "  Janeway's 
farm,"  about  the  spot  where  is  now  the  Chatham  Theatre.  A 
part  of  the  garden  met  the  line  of  the  ancient  palisades.  The 
whole  hill,  which  was  large,  extended  from  Duane  down  to  Pearl 
street,  along  the  line  of  Chatham  street ;  near  her  place  was 
once  "  the  City  Gate."  "  Soft  waffles  and  tea"  were  the  luxuries 
there,  in  which  some  of  the  gentry  then  most  indulged. 

The  angle  whereon  the  Park  Theatre  now  stands,  belonged 
originally  to  the  square  of  the  Park ;  that  corner  of  the  square 
was  once  called  "the  Governor's  Garden,"  (so  David  Grim  said) 
in  reference  to  such  an  intended  use  of  it. 

A  garden  of  note  was  kept  vis-a-vis  the  Park,  where  is  now 
Peale's  museum,  and  named  "  Montague's  Garden."  There  the 
"  Sons  of  Liberty,-^'  so  called,  convened. 

A  drawing  of  the  Collect  as  it  stood  about  the  year  1750,  done 
by  David  Grim,  which  I  saw  with  his  daughter  Mrs.  Myers, 
places  a  garden  at  the  west  side  of  the  little  Collect,  which  he 
separates  from  the  big  or  main  Collect  by  an  elevated  knoll,  like 
an  island,  on  which  he  marks  the  Magazine,  and  a  negro  hang- 
ing in  gibbets ;  between  this  knoll  and  the  big  Collect  is  drawn  a 
marsh  ;  a  winding  road  is  marked  along  the  south  side  of  the 
little  Collect. 


Apparel,  247 


APPAREL. 

«  We  run  through  eVery  change,  which  fancy 
At  the  loom  has  genius  to  supply." 

There  is  a  very  marked  and  wide  difference  between  our 
moderns  and  the  ancients  in  their  several  views  of  appropriate 
dress.  The  latter,  in  our  judgment  of  them,  were  always  stiff  and 
formal,  unchanging  in  their  cut  and  fit  in  the  gentry,  or  neghgent 
and  rough  in  texture  in  the  commonalty ;  whereas  the  moderns, 
casting  off  all  former  modes  and  forms,  and  inventing  every 
new  device  which  fancy  can  supply,  just  please  the  wearers 
"while  the  fashion  is  at  full." 

It  will  much  help  our  just  conceptions  of  our  forefathers  and 
their  good  dames,  to  know  what  were  their  personal  appearances. 
To  this  end,  some  facts  illustrative  of  their  attire  will  be  given. 
Such  as  it  was  among  the  gentry,  was  a  constrained  and  pains- 
taking service,  presenting  nothing  of  ease  and  gracefulness  in  the 
use.  While  we  may  wonder  at  its  adoption  and  long  continu- 
ance, we  will  hope  never  again  to  see  its  return.  But  who  can 
hope  to  check  or  restrain  y^/^Aion,  if  it  should  chance  again  to  set 
that  way ;  or  who  can  foresee  that  the  next  generation  may  not  be 
more  stiff  and  formal  than  any  which  has  passed,  since  we  see, 
even  now,  our  late  graceful  and  easy  habits  of  both  sexes  already 
partially  supplanted  by  "monstrous  novelty  and  strange  dis- 
guise !"  Men  and  women  stiffly  corseted ;  long  unnatural 
looking  waists ;  shoulders  and  breasts  stuffed  and  deformed  as 
Richard's,  and  artificial  hips ;  protruding  garments  of  as  ample 
folds  as  claimed  the  ton  when  senseless  hoops  prevailed. 

A  gentleman  of  eighty  years  of  age  has  given  me  his  recol- 
lections of  the  costumes  of  his  early  days  to  this  effect,  to  wit : 
— Men  wore  three-square  or  cocked  hats,  and  wigs  ;  coats  with 
large  cuffs,  big  skirts  lined  and  stiffened  with  buckram.  None 
ever  saw  a  crown  higher  than  the  head.  The  coat  of  a  beau  had 
three  or  four  large  plaits  in  the  skirts,  wadding  almost  like  a 
coverlet  to  keep  them  smooth ;  cuffs  very  large,  up  to  the  elbows, 
open  below  and  inclined  down,  with  lead  therein;  the  capes 
were  thin  and  low,  so  as  readily  to  expose  the  close  plaited  neck- 
stock  of  fine  linen  cambric,  and  the  large  silver  stock-buckle  on 
the  back  of  the  neck ;  shirts  with  hand-rufiies,  sleeves  finely 
plaited,  breeches  close  fitted,  with  silver,  stone,  or  paste  gem 
buckles;  shoes  or  pumps  with  silver  buckles  of  various  sizes 
and  patterns ;  thread,  worsted,  and  silk  stockings ;  the  poorer 
class  wore  sheep  and  buckskin  breeches  close  set  to  the  limbs. 


C4S  Apparel 

Gold  and  silver  sleeve-buttons,  set  with  stones  or  paste  of  various 
colours  and  kinds,  adorned  the  wrists  of  the  shirts  of  all  classes. 
The  very  boys  often  wore  wigs ;  and  their  dresses  in  general 
were  similar  to  those  of  the  men. 

The  women  wore  caps,  (a  bare  head  was  never  seen,)  stiff  stays, 
hoops  from  six  inches  to  two  feet  on  each  side ;  so  that  a  full 
dressed  lady  entered  a  door  like  a  crab,  pointing  her  obtruding 
flanks  end  foremost ;  high  heeled  shoes  of  black  stuff,  with  white 
silk  or  thread  stockings ;  and  in  the  miry  times  of  winter  they 
wore  clogs,  gala  shoes,  or  pattens. 

The  days  of  stiff  coats,  sometimes  wire-framed,  and  of  large 
hoops,  were  also  stiff  and  formal  in  manners  at  set  balls  and  assem- 
blages. The  dances  of  that  day  among  the  politer  class  were 
minuets,  and  sometimes  country  dances  ;  among  the  lower  order 
hipsesaw  was  every  thing. 

As  soon  as  the  wigs  were  abandoned  and  the  natural  hair,  was 
cherished,  it  became  the  mode  to  dress  it  by  plaiting  it,  by  queu- 
ing and  clubbing,  or  by  wearing  it  in  a  black  silk  sack  or  bag, 
adorned  with  a  large  black  rose.  We  here  give  the  protraits  of 
head-dresses  of  men  and  women,  such  as  they  appeared,  as  the 
fashion,  at  about  the  year  1800. 


In  time,  the  powder  with  which  wigs  and  the  natural  hair  had 
been  severally  adorned,  was  run  into  disrepute  only  about  twenty- 
eight  to  thirty  years  ago,  by  the  then  strange  innovation  of  "Bru- 
tus heads ;"  not  only  then  discarding  the  long-cherished  powder 
and  perfume,  and  tortured  frizzle-work,  but  also  literally  becom- 
ing "  round  heads"  by  cropping  off  all  the  pendant  graces  of  ties, 
bobs,  clubs,  queues,  &c.  The  hardy  beaux  who  first  encountered 
public  opinion  by  appearing  abroad  unpowdered  and  cropt  had 
many  starers.  The  old  men  for  a  time  obstinately  persisted  in 
adherence  to  the  old  regime;  but  death  thinned  their  ranks,  and 
use  and  prevalence  of  numbers  at  length  gave  countenance  to 
modern  usage. 


JippareL  249 

From  various  reminiscents  we  glean,  that  laced  ruffles,  depend- 
ing over  the  hand,  was  a  mark  of  indspensable  gentility.  The 
coat  and  breeches  were  generally  desirable  of  the  same  material 
— of  "broad  cloth"  for  winter,  and  of  silk  camlet  for  summer. 
No  kind  of  cotton  fabrics  were  then  in  use  or  known.  Hose 
were  therefore  of  thread  or  silk  in  summer,  and  fine  worsted  in 
winter  ;  shoes  were  square-toed,  and  were  often  "  double  chan- 
neled." To  these  succeeded  sharp  toes,  as  piked  as  possible. 
When  wigs  were  universally  worn,  grey  wigs  were  powdered  ; 
and  for  that  purpose  sent  in  a  wooden  box  frequently  to  the  barber 
to  be  dressed  on  his  block-head.  But  "  brown  wigs,"  so  called, 
were  exempted  from  the  white  disguise.  Coats  of  red  cloth,  even 
by  boys,  were  considerably  worn ;  and  plush  breeches  and  plush 
vests  of  various  colours,  shining  and  smooth,  were  in  common 
use.  Everlasting,  made  of  worsted,  was  a  fabric  of  great  use  for 
breeches,  and  sometimes  for  vests.  The  vest  had  great  depend- 
ing pocket  flaps,  and  the  breeches  were  short  above  the  stride, 
because  the  art,  since  devised,  of  suspending  them  by  suspenders, 
was  then  unknown.  It  was  then  the  test  and  even  the  pride  of 
a  well  formed  man,  that  he  could  by  his  natural  form  readily 
keep  his  breeches  above  the  hips,  and  his  stockings,  without  gar- 
tering, above  the  calf  of  his  leg.  With  the  queues  belonged  friz- 
zled side-locks  and  tout  pies,  formed  of  the  natural  hair,  or,  in 
defect  of  a  long  tie,  a  splice  was  added  to  it.  Such  was  the  gene- 
ral passion  for  the  longest  possible  whip  of  hair,  that  sailors  and 
boatmen,  to  make  it  grow  most,  used  to  tie  theirs  in  eel  skins. 
Nothing  like  surtouts  were  known;  but  they  had  coating  or  cloth 
great  coats,  or  blue  cloth  and  brown  camlet  cloaks,  with  green 
baize  lining  to  the  latter.  In  the  time  of  the  American  war, 
many  of  the  American  officers  introduced  the  use  of  Dutch 
blankets  for  great  coats.  The  sailors  used  to  wear  hats  of  glazed 
leather,  or  woollen  thrums,  called  chapeaus ;  and  their  "  small 
clothes,"  as  we  would  now  call  them,  were  immensely  wide 
"  petticoat-breeches."  The  working  men  in  the  country  wore 
the  same  form,  having  no  falling  flaps,  but  slits  in  front ;  and  they 
were  so  full  in  girth,  that  they  ordinarily  changed  the  rear  to  the 
front  when  the  seat  became  prematurely  worn  out.  At  the  same 
time  numerous  working  men  and  boys,  and  all  tradesmen,  wore 
leather  breeches  and  leather  aprons. 

Some  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  female  dress  were  these,  to  wit : 
Ancient  ladies  are  still  alive,  who  often  had  had  their  hair  tortured 
for  hours  at  a  sitting  in  getting  up  for  a  dress  occasion,  the  proper 
crisped  curls  of  a  hair  curler.  This  formidable  outfit  of  head 
work  was  next  succeeded  by  "  rollers,"  over  which  the  hair  was 
combed  above  the  forehead.  These  again  were  superseded  by 
"  cushions"  and  artificial  curled  work,  which  ?ould  be  sent  to 
the  barber's  block,  like  a  wig,  "  to  be  dressed,"  leaving  the  lady 
at  home  to  pursue  other  objects. 
32 


/ 

250  Apparel. 

When  the  ladies  first  began  to  lay  off  their  cumbrous  hoops, 
they  supplied  their  place  with  successive  substitutes,  such  as  these, 
to  wit :  first  came  "  bishops,"  a  thing  stuffed  or  padded  with 
horse  hair ;  then  succeeded  a  smaller  affair,  under  the  name  of 
Cue  de  Paris,  also  padded  with  horse  hair.  How  it  abates  our 
admiration  of  the  *'  lovely  sex"  to  contemplate  them  as  bearing 
a  roll  of  horse  hair  under  their  garments  !     An  old  satire  said, 

"  Thus  finish'd  in  taste,  while  on  her  you  gaze, 
You  may  take  the  dear  charmer  for  life, 
But  never  undress  her,  for  out  of  her  stays. 
You'll  find  you  have  lost  half  your  wife." 

Next  they  supplied  their  place  with  silk  or  calimanco,  or  russell 
thickly  quilted  and  inlaid  with  wool,  made  into  petticoats  ;  then 
these  were  supplanted  by  a  substitute  of  half  a  dozen  of  petticoats. 
No  wonder  such  ladies  needed  fans  in  a  sultry  summer,  and  at  a 
time  when  parasols  were  unknown,  to  keep  off  the  solar  rays.  I 
knew  a  lady  going  to  a  gala  party,  who  had  so  large  a  hoop,  that 
when  she  sat  in  the  chaise,  she  so  filled  it  up  that  the  person  who 
drove  it  (it  had  no  top)  stood  up  behind  the  box  and  directed  the 
reins. 

Some  of  those  ancient  belles,  who  thus  sweltered  under  the 
weight  of  six  petticoats,  have  lived  now  to  see  their  posterity,  not 
long  since,  go  so  thin  and  transparent  a  la  Frangaise,  especially 
when  between  the  beholder  and  a  declining  sun,  as  to  make  a 
modest  eye  sometimes  instinctively  avert  its  gaze. 

Among  some  other  articles  of  female  wear  we  may  name  the 
following,  to  wit :  Once  they  wore  a  "  skimmer  hat,"  made  of  a 
fabric  which  shone  like  silver  tinsel ;  it  was  a  very  small  flat 
crown  and  big  brim,  not  unlike  the  present  Leghorn  flats.  Another 
hat,  not  unlike  it  in  shape,  was  made  of  woven  horse  hair,  wove 
in  flowers,  and  called  "  horse  hair  bonnets,"  an  article  which 
might  be  again  usefully  introduced  for  children's  wear  as  an 
enduring  hat  for  long  service.  I  have  seen  what  was  called  a 
bath  bonnet,  made  of  black  satin,  and  so  constructed  to  lay  in 
folds  that  it  could  be  set  upon  like  a  chapeau  bras  ;  a  good  article 
now  for  travelling  ladies.  "  The  mush-mellon"  bonnet,  used 
before  the  revolution,  had  numerous  whalebone  stiffeners,  in  the 
crown,  set  at  an  inch  apart  in  parallel  lines,  and  presenting 
ridges  to  the  eye,  between  the  bones.  The  next  bonnet  was  the 
"  whalebone  bonnet,"  having  only  the  bones  in  the  front  as 
stiffeners.  "  A  calash  bonnet"  was  always  formed  of  green 
silk;  it  was  worn  abroad,  covering  the  head, but  when  in  rooms 
it  could  fall  back  in  folds  like  the  springs  of  a  calash  or  gig  top  ; 
to  keep  it  up  over  the  head  it  was  drawn  up  by  a  cord  always 
held  in  the  han5  of  the  wearer.  The  "  wagon  bonnet,"  always 
of  black  silk,  was  an  article  exclusively  in  use  among  the  Friends, 
was  deemed  to  look,  on  the  head,  not  unlike  the  top  of  the  "  Jersey 


Apparel.  251 

wagons,"  and  having  a  pendent  piece  of  like  silk  hanging  from 
the  bonnet  and  covering  the  shoulders.  The  only  straw  wear  was 
that  called  the  "  straw  beehive  bonnet,"  generally  by  old  people. 

The  ladies  once  wore  "  hollow  breasted  stays,"  which  were 
exploded  as  injurious  to  the  health.  Then  came  the  use  of 
straight  stays.  Even  little  girls  wore  such  stays.  At  one  time 
the  gowns  worn  had  no  fronts  ;  the  design  was  to  display  a  finely 
quilted  Marseilles,  silk  or  satin  petticoat,  and  a  worked  stomacher 
on  the  waist.  In  other  dresses  a  white  apron  was  the  mode ;  all 
wore  large  pockets  under  their  gowns.  Among  the  caps  was  the 
"  queen's  night-cap,"  the  same  always  worn  by  Lady  Washing- 
ton. The  "  cushion  head-dress"  was  of  gauze,  stiffened  out  in 
cylindrical  form  with  white  spiral  wire.  The  border  of  the  cap 
was  called  the  balcony. 

A  lady  of  my  acquaintance  t?ms  describes  the  recollections  of 
her  early  days  preceding  the  war  of  Independence.  Dress  was 
discriminative  and  appropriate,  both  as  regarded  the  season  and  the 
character  of  the  wearer.  Ladies  never  wore  the  same  dresses  at 
work  and  on  visits ;  they  sat  at  home,  or  went  out  in  the  morning, 
in  chintz  ;  brocades,  satins,  and  mantuas  were  reserved  for  even- 
ing or  dinner  parties.  Robes  or  negligees,  as  they  were  called, 
were  always  worn  in  full  dress.  Muslins  were  not  worn  at  all. 
Little  misses  at  a  dancing-school  ball  (for  these  were  almost  the 
only  fetes  that  fell  to  their  share  in  the  days  of  discrimination) 
were  dressed  in  frocks  of  lawn  or  cambric.  Worsted  was  then 
thought  dress  enough  for  common  days. 

As  a  universal  fact,  it  may  be  remarked  that  no  other  colour 
than  black  was  ever  made  for  ladies*  bonnets  when  formed  of 
silk  or  satin.  Fancy  colours  were  unknown,  and  white  bonnets 
of  silk  fabric  had  never  been  seen.  The  first  innovation  remem- 
bered was  the  bringing  in  of  blue  bonnets. 

The  time  was  when  the  plainest  women  among  the  Friends 
(now  so  averse  to  fancy  colours)  wore  their  coloured  silk  aprons, 
say,  of  green,  blue,  &c.  This  was  at  a  time  when  the  gay  wore 
white  aprons.  In  time  white  aprons  were  disused  by  the  gentry, 
and  then  the  friends  left  off  their  coloured  ones  and  used  the 
white.  The  same  old  ladies  among  Friends,  whom  we  can 
remember  as  wearers  of  the  white  aprons,  wore  also  large  white 
beaver  hats  with  scarcely  the  sign  of  a  crown,  and  which  was 
indeed  confined  to  the  head  by  silk  cords  tied  under  the  chin. 
Eight  dollars  would  buy  such  a  hat  when  beaver  fur  was  more 
plentiful.  They  lasted  such  ladies  almost  a  whole  life  of  wear. 
They  showed  no  fur. 

In  the  former  days,  it  was  not  uncommon  to  see  aged  persons 
with  large  silver  buttons  to  their  coats  and  vests ;  it  was  a  mark 
of  wealth.  Some  had  the  initials  of  their  names  engraved  on 
each  button.  Sometimes  they  were  made  out  of  real  quarter 
dollars,  with  the  coinage  impression  still  retained ;  these   were 


251t  j9ppareL 

used  for  the  coats  and  the  eleven-penny-bits  for  vests  and  breeches. 
My  father  wore  an  entire  suit  decorated  with  conch-shell  buttons, 
silver  mounted. 

On  the  subject  of  wigs,  I  have  noticed  the  following  special 
facts,  to  wit : — They  were  as  generally  worn  by  genteel  Friends  as 
by  any  other  people.  This  was  the  more  surprising,  as  they  reli- 
giously professed  to  exclude  all  superfluities,  and  yet  nothing 
could  have  been  offered  to  the  mind  as  so  essentially  useless. 
We  here  give  a  portrait  of  a  public  Friend,  such  as  he  was  in 
costume,  done  from  life. 


In  1737  the  perukes  of  the  day,  as  then  sold,  were  thus  described, 
to  wit : — "  Tyes,  bobs,  majors,  spencers,  fox-tails,  and  twists, 
together  with  curls  or  tates  (tetes)  for  the  ladies." 

In  the  year  1765  another  peruke-maker  advertises  prepared 
hair  for  judges'  full  bottomed  wigs,  tyes  for  gentlemen  of  the  bar 
to  wear  over  their  hair,  brigadiers,  dress  bobs,  bags,  cues,  scratches, 
cut  wigs,  &c. ;  and  to  accommodate  ladies  he  has  tates  (tetes), 
towers,  &c.  At  same  time  a  stay-maker  advertises  cork  stays, 
whalebone  stays,  jumps  and  easy  caushets,  thin  boned  misses' 
and  ladies  stays,  and  pack  thread  stays. 

Some  of  the  advertisements  of  the  olden  time  present  some 
curious  descriptions  of  masquerade  attire,  such  as  these,  viz  : — 

Year  1722 — runaway,  a  servant  clothed  with  damask  breeches 
and  vest,  black  broadcloth  vest,  a  broadcloth  coat  of  copper 
colour,  lined  and  trimmed  with  black,  and  wearing  black  stock- 
ings. Another  servant  is  described  as  wearing  leather  breeches 
and  glass  buttons,  black  stockings,  and  a  wig. 

In  1724  a  runaway  barber  is  thus  dressed,  viz  : — wore  a  light 
wig,  a  grey  kersey  jacket  lined  with  blue,  a  light  pair  of  drugget 
breeches,  black  roll-up  stockings,  square-toed  shoes,  a  red  leathern 


Apparel  253 

apron.  He  had  also  a  white  vest  and  yellow  buttons,  with  red 
linings. 

Another  runaway  servant  is  described  as  wearing  *^a  light 
short  wig/'  aged  20  years  ;  his  vest  white,  with  yellow  buttons 
and  faced  with  red. 

A  poetic  effusion  of  a  lady  of  1725,  describing  her  paramour, 
thus  designates  the  dress  which  most  seizes  upon  her  admiration 
as  a  ball  guest : — 

*'  Mine,  a  tall  youth  shall  at  a  ball  be  seen, 
Whose  legs  are  like  the  spring,  all  clothM  in  green, 
A  yellow  ribband  ties  his  long  cravat, 
And  a  large  knot  of  yellow  cocks  his  hat." 

A  gentleman  of  Cheraw,  South  Carolina,  has  now  in  his 
possession  an  ancient  cap,  worn  in  the  colony  of  New  Netherlands 
about  1 50  years  ago,  such  as  may  have  been  worn  by  some  of 
the  chieftains  among  the  Dutch  rulers  set  over  us.  The  crown  is 
of  elegant  yellowish  brocade,  the  brim  of  crimson  silk  velvet, 
turned  up  to  the  crown.  ^  It  is  elegant  even  now. 

In  the  year  1749  I  met  with  the  incidental  mention  of  a  singu- 
lar overcoat  worn  by  Captain  James  as  a  storm  coat,  made 
entirely  of  beaver  fur,  wrought  together  in  the  manner  of  felting 
hats. 

Before  the  revolution  no  hired  men  or  women  wore  any  shoes 
so  fine  as  calfskin,  that  kind  was  the  exclusive  property  of  the 
gentry;  the  servants  wore  coarse  neats-leather.  The  calfskin 
shoe  then  had  a  white  rand  of  sheepskin  stitched  into  the  top 
edge  of  the  sole,  which  they  preserved  white  as  a  dress  shoe  as 
long  as  possible. 

It  was  very  common  for  children  and  working  women  to  wear 
bfeads  made  of  Job's-tears,  a  berry  of  a  shrub.  They  used  them 
for  economy,  and  said  it  prevented  several  diseases. 

Until  the  period  of  the  revolution,  every  person  who  wore  a 
fur  hat  had  it  always  of  entire  beaver.  Every  apprentice,  at  re- 
ceiving his  '^  freedom,"  received  a  real  beaver  at  a  cost  of  six 
dollars.  Their  every-day  hats  were  of  wool,  and  called  felts. 
What  were  called  roram  hats,  being  fur  faced  upon  wool  felts, 
came  into  use  directly  after  the  peace,  and  excited  much  surprise 
as  to  the  invention.  Gentlemen's  hats,  of  entire  beaver,  univer- 
sally cost  eight  dollars. 

The  use  of  lace  veils  to  ladies'  faces  is  but  a  modern  fashion, 
not  of  more  than  twenty  to  thirty  years  standing.  Now  they 
wear  black,  white,  and  green  ;  the  last  only  lately  introduced  as 
a  summer  veil.  In  olden  time  none  wore  a  veil  but  as  a  mark 
and  badge  of  mourning,  and  then,  as  now,  of  crape,  in  preference 
to  lace. 

Ancient  ladies  remembered  a  time  in  their  early  life  when 
the  ladies  wore  blue  stockings  and  party-coloured  clocks  of  very 
striking  appearance.    May  not  that  fashion,  as  an  extreme  ton 


254  Apparel. 

of  the  upper  circle  in  life,  explain  the  adoption  of  the  term  "  Blue 
stocking  Club  ?"  I  have  seen  with  S C ,  Esq.,  the  wed- 
ding silk  stockings  of  his  grandmother,  of  a  lively  green,  and  great 
red  clocks.  My  grandmother  wore  in  winter  very  fine  worsted 
green  stockings,  with  a  gay  clock  surmounted  with  a  bunch  of 
tulips. 

Even  spectacles,  permanently  useful  as  they  are,  have  been 
subjected  to  the  caprice  of  fashion.  Now  they  are  occasionally 
seen  of  gold — a  thing  I  never  saw  in  my  youth ;  neither  did  I 
ever  see  one  young  man  with  spectacles — now  so  numerous.  A 
purblind  or  half-sighted  youth  then  deemed  it  his  positive  dispa- 
ragement to  be  so  regarded.  Such  would  have  rather  run  against 
a  street  post  six  times  a-day  than  have  been  seen  with  them.  In- 
deed, in  early  olden  time  they  had  not  the  art  of  using  temple 
spectacles.  In  early  years  the  only  spectacles  ever  used  were 
called  "  bridge  spectacles,' '  without  any  side  supporters,  and  held 
on  the  nose  solely  by  nipping  the  bridge  of  the  nose. 

My  grandmother  wore  a  black  velvet  mask  in  winter  with  a 
silver  mouth-piece  to  keep  it  on  by  retaining  it  in  the  mouth.  I 
have  been  told  that  green  ones  have  been  used  in  summer  for 
some  few  ladies,  for  riding  in  the  sun  on  horseback. 

Ladies  formerly  wore  cloaks  as  their  chief  overcoats;  they 
were  used  with  some  changes  of  form  under  the  successive  names 
of  roquelaus,  capuchins,  and  cardinals. 

In  the  old  time,  shagreen-cased  watches,  and  turtle  shell  and 
pinchbeck,  were  the  earliest  kind  seen ;  but  watches  of  any  kind 
were  much  more  rare  then.  When  they  began  to  come  into  use, 
they  were  so  far  deemed  a  matter  of  pride  and  show,  that  men 
are  living  who  have  heard  public  Friends  express  their  concern 
at  seeing  their  youth  in  the  show  of  watches  or  watch  chains. 
It  was  so  rare  to  find  watches  in  common  use,  that  it  was  quite 
an  annoyance  at  the  watchmaker's  to  be  so  repeatedly  called  on 
by  street-passengers  for  the  hour  of  the  day.  Gold  chains  would 
have  been  a  wonder  then ;  silver  and  steel  chains  and  seals  were 
the  mode,  and  regarded  good  enough.  The  best  gentlemen  of 
the  country  were  content  with  silver  watches,  although  gold  ones 
were  occasionally  used.  Gold  watches  for  ladies  was  a  rare  oc- 
currence, and  when  worn,  were  kept  without  display  for  domes- 
tic use. 

The  men  of  former  days  never  saw  such  things  as  our  Maho- 
medan  whiskers  on  christian  men. 

The  use  of  boots  has  come  in  since  the  war  of  Independence ; 
they  were  first  with  black  tops,  after  the  military,  strapped  up 
in  union  with  the  knee  buttons;  afterwards  bright  tops  were 
introduced.  The  leggings  to  these  latter  were  made  of  buckskin 
for  some  extreme  beaux,  for  the  sake  of  close  fitting  a  well 
turned  leg. 

It  having  been  the  object  of  these  pages  to  notice  the  change 


AppareL  255 

of  the  fashions  in  the  habiliments  of  men  and  women  from  the 
olden  to  the  modern  time,  it  may  be  necessary  to  say,  that  no  at- 
tempt has  been  made  to  note  the  quick  succession  of  modern 
changes,  precisely  because  they  are  too  rapid  and  evanescent  for 
any  useful  record.  The  subject,  however,  leads  me  to  the  gene- 
ral remark,  that  the  general  character  of  our  dress  is  always  ill 
adapted  to  our  climate ;  and  this  fact  arises  from  our  national 
predilection  as  English.  As  English  colonists  we  early  introduced 
the  modes  of  our  British  ancestors.  They  derived  their  notions 
of  dress  from  France ;  and  we,  even  now,  take  all  annual  fashions 
from  the  ton  of  England ;  a  circumstance  which  leads  us  into 
many  unseasonable  and  injurious  imitations,  very  ill  adapted  to 
either  our  hotter  or  colder  climate.  Here  we  have  the  extremes 
of  heat  and  cold.  There  they  are  moderate.  The  loose  and  light 
habits  of  the  east,  or  of  southern  Europe,  would  be  better  adapted 
to  the  ardour  of  our  midsummers ;  and  the  close  and  warm  ap- 
parel of  the  north  of  Europe  might  furnish  us  better  examples  for 
our  severe  winters.       ^ 

But  in  these  matters  (while  enduring  the  profuse  sweating  of 
90  degrees  of  heat)  we  fashion  after  the  modes  of  England,  which 
are  adapted  to  a  climate  of  but  70  degrees.  Instead,  therefore, 
of  the  broad  slouched  hat  of  southern  Europe,  we  have  the  nar- 
row brim,  a  stiff  stock  or  starched  buckram  collar  for  the  neck,  a 
coat  so  close  and  tight  as  if  glued  to  our  skins,  and  boots  so  closely 
set  over  our  insteps  and  ancles,  as  if  over  the  lasts  on  which  they 
were  made.  Our  ladies  have  as  many  ill  adapted  dresses  and 
hats ;  and  sadly  their  healths  are  impaired  in  our  rigorous  winters, 
by  their  thin  stuff-shoes  and  transparent  and  light  draperies,  afford- 
ing but  slight  defence  for  tender  frames  against  the  cold. 

Mr.  A.  B.,  aged  75,  in  1828,  told  me  the  following  facts,  viz  : 

Boots  were  rarely  worn,  never  as  an  article  of  dress ;  chiefly 
when  seen  they  were  worn  on  hostlers  and  sailors ;  the  latter  al- 
ways wore  great  petticoat  trowsers,  coming  only  to  the  knee  and 
there  tying  close ;  common  people  wore  their  clothes  much  longer 
than  now  ;  they  patched  their  clothes  much  and  long ;  a  garment 
was  only  "  half  worn''  when  it  became  broken. 

The  first  umbrellas  he  ever  knew  worn,  were  by  the  British 
officers,  and  were  deemed  effeminate  in  them.  Parasols,  as 
guards  from  the  sun,  were  not  seen  at  all.  As  a  defence  from 
rain,  the  men  wore  "rain  coats,"  and  the  women,  "camblets." 
It  was  a  common  occurrence  to  see  servants  running  in  every 
direction  with  these  on  their  arms,  to  churches,  if  an  unexpected 
rain  came  up.  As  a  defence  in  winter  from  storms,  the  men 
were  "great  coats"  daily.  It  was  a  general  practice  (as  much 
so  as  moving  on  the  first  of  May),  to  put  on  these  coats  on  the 
tenth  of  November,  and  never  disuse  them  till  the  tenth  of  May 
following. 

Gentlemen  of  the  true  Holland  race,  wore  very  long  body  coats, 


256  Apparel. 

the  skirts  reaching  down  nearly  to  the  ancles,  with  long  and  broad 
waists,  and  with  wide  and  stiff  skirts ;  they  wore  long  flaps  to 
their  vests ;  their  breeches  were  not  loose  and  flowing,  although 
large,  but  were  well  filled  up  with  interior  garments,  giving  name 
to  the  thing  as  well  as  to  families,  in  the  appellation  of  Mynheer 
Ten  Broeck. 

A  female  child  of  six  years,  in  full  dignity  of  dress,  was  attired 
thus,  viz : — a  white  cap  of  transparent  texture,  setting  smooth 
and  close  to  the  head  :  on  the  left  side  of  it  was  a  white  ostrich 
feather,  flattened  like  a  band  close  to  the  cap  ;  the  cap  had  a  nar- 
row edge  of  lace.  From,  the  neck  dropped  a  white  linen  collar, 
with  laced  edges.  A  gold  chain  hung  on  one  shoulder  only,  and 
under  the  opposite  arm.  A  white  stomacher,  with  needle  orna- 
ments, and  the  edges  laced.  The  body  braced  with  stays.  A 
white  apron,  very  full  at  the  top  and  much  plaited,  and  edged  all 
round  with  small  lace.  A  silk  gown  of  thick  material  of  dove 
colour,  very  full  plaited,  and  giving  the  idea  of  large  hips ;  (indeed 
all  the  Dutch  women  affected  much  rotundity  in  that  way.)  Broad 
lace  was  sewn  close  to  the  gown  sleeves,  along  the  length  of  the 
seam  on  the  inside  curve  of  the  arms,  so  as  to  cover  the  seam. 
The  sleeve  cuffs  were  of  white  lace,  large,  and  turned  up.  This 
picture  from  life  was  given  by  an  artist  who  understood  the 
detail. 

Mrs.  M* Adams,  a  venerable  lady  whom  I  saw  at  the  age  of 
ninety-three,  spoke  of  a  circumstance  occurring  in  New  York  in 
1757,  respecting  Gen.  Gates'  first  wife  :  she  was  generally  reported 
as  riding  abroad  in  meii's  clothes,  solely  from  the  circumstance 
of  her  wearing  a  riding  habit  after  the  manner  of  English  ladies, 
where  she  had  been  born  and  educated.  It  proved  that  the  man- 
ners of  the  times  did  not  admit  of  such  female  display,  and  per- 
haps it  was  more  masculine  than  we  now  see  them  on  ladies. 

The  price  of  fine  cloth  before  the  revolution,  was  "  a  guinea  a 
yard;"  and.  all  men,  save  the  most  refined,  expected,  after 
wearing  it  well  on  one  side,  to  have  it  vamped  up  new  as  a 
"  turned  coat."  Among  common  men,  the  practice  was  universal. 
Thus  showing  how  much  better  cloths  were  then  than  now,  in 
durability. 

All  elderly  gentlemen  had  gold-headed  canes.  It  was  their 
mark  of  distinction.  Seeing  that  they  were  once  so  general,  it  is 
matter  of  curiosity  now,  to  ask  what  may  have  become  of  the 
many,  now  no  longer  seen !  It  was  usual  to  see  them  in  the 
churches  and  other  public  places,  used  ostensibly  as  a  support  to 
the  chin  when  sitting;  but  often  times  from  motives  of  vanity,  as 
a  badge  of  expensive  ability.  It  was  a  pride  of  the  same  kind, 
which  gave  favour  and  use  to  gold  snuff-boxes,  and  to  the  free 
proffering  of  their  contents,  to  the  persons  near.  Silas  Deane,  it 
is  remembered,  had  one,  a  present  from  royalty,  which  he  was 
very  proud  of  displaying  with  its  diamonds.     This  was  so  mani- 


Appard,  257 

fest  to  Charles  Thompson,  his  familiar  friend,  that  he  once  broke 
out  upon  him  in  full  laugh  for  his  manner  of  urging  it  upon  his 
notice ! 

In  former  days,  the  mechanics,  working  men,  and  country  peo- 
ple attending  markets,  were  universally  accustomed  to  appear 
abroad  in  leather  breeches,  leathern  aprons,  and  baize  vests  of 
red  or  green.     The  working  boys  did  the  same. 

A  modern  apprentice  now  must  have  his  suit  of  fine  broadcloth, 
his  hat  of  the  finest  fur  and  latest  fashion,  his  boots  of  the  best 
cut  and  style,  &c. ;  but  formerly,  all  this  was  quite  diflerent.  Ima- 
gine to  yourself,  a  young  man  of  eighteen,  then,  of  good  propor- 
tions, handsome  face,  blooming  with  health  and  beauty,  dressed 
in  a  pair  of  deerskin  breeches,  blacked  or  buft  up  every  week  for 
his  Sunday  appearance  at  church — his  legs  at  same  time  covered 
up  to  the  knees  with  blue  yarn  knit  stockings,  and  his  feet  encased 
in  a  pair  of  coarse  leathej;  shoes,  well  greased,  and  surmounted 
with  a  pair  of  brass  buckles.  Observe  that  he  wore  a  speckled 
or  checked  shirt  all  the  week,  and  a  white  one  on  Sunday,  which 
was  always  carefully  taken  off  as  soon  as  he  got  home  from 
church,  was  folded  up  and  laid  by  for  the  next  sabbath  service. 
Imagine  that  the  leather  breeches,  after  long  wear  got  greasy  and 
horny  as  they  grew  old,  and  were  only  flexible,  so  long  as  they 
were  on,  and  kept  warm  by  the  superflux  of  youthful  heat.  Sup- 
pose, that  in  the  morning  of  a  cold  day  in  January,  when  snow 
had  blown  in  at  his  bed-chamber  window,  scattering  its  fleece 
about  his  garret,  and  loading  his  breeches,  stiflening  them  up  to 
a  standing  capability,  and  he  shaking  out  the  snow  and  pulling 
them  on !  Such  was  once  his  lot ;  and  such  he  once  encountered 
without  fear  or  murmur  ;  when  he  could  rise  warm  from  his  straw 
bed  and  woollen  rug,  subduing  by  his  own  warmth  the  stubborn 
stiffness  of  the  leather,  and  going  down  stairs  with  a  whistle,  to 
kindle  the  fires  for  the  house,  and  for  his  master. 

In  those  days,  none  were  anxious  for  the  safety  of  the  house 
against  night  robbers ;  street  doors  were  universally  left  on  the 
latch  till  bed-time  and  retirement ;  or  were  habitually  left  open 
for  ready  ingress  or  egress,  the  family  in  meantime,  frequently 
passing  the  evenings  on  their  street  stoops  or  porches. 


33  Y2 


258  Furniture  and  Equipage, 


FURNITURE  AND  EQUIPAGE. 

"  Dismiss  a  real  elegance  a  little  used, 
For  monstrous  novelty  and  strange  disguise." 

The  tide  of  fashion,  which  overwhelms  every  thing  in  its  on- 
ward course,  had  almost  effaced  every  trace  of  what  our  forefathers 
possessed  or  used  in  the  way  of  household  furniture  or  traveling 
equipage.  Since  the  year  1800,  the  introduction  of  foreign  luxury, 
caused  by  the  influx  of  wealth,  has  been  yearly  effecting  succes- 
sive changes  in  those  articles,  so  much  so  that  the  former  simple 
articles  which  contented,  as  they  equally  served  the  purposes  of, 
our  forefathers,  could  hardly  be  conceived.  Such  as  they  were, 
they  descended  acceptably  unchanged  from  father  to  son  and  son's 
son,  and  presenting,  at  the  era  of  our  Independence,  precisely  the 
same  family  picture  which  had  been  seen  in  the  earliest  annals 
of  the  town. 

Formerly  there  were  no  side-boards,  and  when  they  were  first 
introduced  after  the  revolution,  they  were  much  smaller  and  less 
expensive  than  now.  Formerly  they  had  couches  of  worsted 
damask,  and  only  in  very  affluent  familes,  in  lieu  of  what  we 
now  call  sofas  or  lounges.  Plain  people  used  settees  and  settles, 
— the  latter  had  a  bed  concealed  in  the  seat,  and  by  folding  the 
top  of  it  outwards  to  the  front,  it  exposed  the  bed  and  widened 
the  place  for  the  bed  to  be  spread  upon  it.  This,  homely  as  it 
might  now  be  regarded,  was  a  common  sitting  room  appendage, 
and  was  a  proof  of  more  attention  to  comfort  than  display.  It 
had,  as  well  as  the  settee,  a  very  high  back  of  plain  boards,  and 
the  whole  was  of  white  pine,  generally  unpainted  and  whitened 
well  with  unsparing  scrubbing.  Such  was  in  the  poet's  eyes 
when  pleading  for  his  sofa, — 

"  But  restless  was  the  seat,  the  back  erect 
Distress'd  the  weary  loins  that  felt  no  ease." 

They  were  a  very  common  article  in  very  good  houses,  and 
were  generally  the  proper  property  of  the  oldest  members  of  the 
family,  unless  occasionally  used  to  stretch  the  weary  length  of 
tired  boys.  They  were  placed  before  the  fire-places  in  the  win- 
ter to  keep  the  back  guarded  from  wind  and  cold.  Formerly 
there  were  no  Windsor  chairs ;  and  fancy  chairs  are  still  more 
modern.  Their  chairs  of  the  genteelest  kind  were  of  mahogany 
or  red  walnut,  (once  a  great  substitute  for  mahogany  in  all  kinds 
of  furniture,  tables,  &c.,)  or  else  they  were  of  rush  bottoms,  and 
made  of  maple  posts  and  slats,  with  high  backs  and  perpendicular. 
Instead  of  japanned  waiters  as  now,  they  had  mahogany  tea 


Furniture  and  Equipage.  ^9^ 

boards  and  round  tea  tables,  which,  being  turned  on  an  axle 
underneath  the  centre,  stood  upright  like  an  expanded  fan  or 
palm  leaf,  in  the  corner.  Another  corner  was  occupied  by  a 
beaufet,  which  was  a  corner  closet  Avith  a  glass  door,  in  which 
all  the  china  of  the  family  and  the  plate  were  intended  to  be 
displayed  for  ornament  as  well  as  use.  A  conspicious  article  in 
the  collection  was  always  a  great  china  punch  bowl,  which  fur- 
nished a  frequent  and  grateful  beverage, — for  wine  drinking  was 
then  much  less  in  vogue.  China  teacups  and  saucers  were  about 
half  their  present  size ;  and  china  tea-pots  and  coffee-pots,  with 
silver  nozzles,  was  a  mark  of  superior  finery.  The  sham  of  plated 
ware  was  not  then  known,  and  all  who  showed  a  silver  surface 
had  the  massive  metal  too.  This  occurred  in  the  wealthy  families 
in  little  coflfee  and  tea-pots ;  and  a  silver  tankard  for  good  sugared 
toddy,  was  above  vulgar  entertainment.  Where  we  now  use 
earthen-ware,  they  then  used  delf-ware  imported  from  England; 
and  instead  of  queen's-ware  (then  unknown,)  pewter  platters  and 
porringers,  made  to  shine  along  a  "dresser,"  were  universal. 
Some,  and  especially  the  country  people,  ate  their  meals  from 
wooden  trenchers.  Gilded  looking-glasses  and  picture  frames  of 
golden  glare  were  unknown ;  and  both  much  smaller  than  now, 
were  used.  Small  pictures  painted  on  glass,  with  black  mould- 
ings for  frames,  with  a  scanty  touch  of  gold  leaf  in  the  corners, 
was  the  adornment  of  a  parlour.  The  looking-glasses  in  two 
plates,  if  large,  had  either  glass  frames  figured  with  flowers  en- 
graved thereon,  or  was  of  scalloped  mahogany  or  of  Dutch 
wood  scalloped — painted  white  or  black,  with  here  and  there 
some  touches  of  gold.  Every  householder  in  that  day  deemed  it 
essential  to  his  convenience  and  comfort  to  have  an  ample  chest 
of  drawers  in  his  parlour  or  sitting  room,  in  which  the  linen  and 
clothes  of  the  family  were  always  of  ready  access.  It  was  no  sin 
to  rummage  them  before  company.  These  drawers  were  some- 
times nearly  as  high  as  the  ceiling.  At  other  times  they  had  a 
writing  desk  about  the  centre,  with  a  falling  lid  to  write  upon 
when  let  down.  A  great  high  clock-case,  reaching  to  the  ceiling, 
occupied  another  corner ;  and  a  fourth  corner  was  appropriated 
to  the  chimney  place.  They  then  had  no  carpets  on  their  floors, 
and  no  paper  on  their  walls.  The  silver-sand  on  the  floor  was 
drawn  into  a  variety  of  fanciful  figures  and  twirls  with  the  sweep- 
ing brush,  and  much  skill  and  even  pride  was  displayed  therein 
in  the  devices  and  arrangement.  They  had  then  no  argand  or 
other  lamps  in  parlours,  but  dip  candles,  in  brass  or  copper  candle- 
sticks, was  usually  good  enough  for  common  use  ;  and  those  who 
occasionally  used  mould  candles,  made  them  at  home  in  little  tin 
frames,  casting  four  to  six  candles  in  each.  A  glass  lantern 
with  square  sides  furnished  the  entry  lights  in  the  houses  of  the 
affluent.  Bedsteads  then  were  ma  de,  if  fine,  of  carved  mahogany, 
of  slender  dimensions ;  but,  for  common  purposes,  or  for  the  fami- 


260  Furniture  and  Equipage. 

lies  of  good  tradesmen,  they  were  of  poplar,  and  always  painted 
green.  It  was  a  matter  of  miiversal  concern  to  have  them  low 
enough  to  answer  the  purpose  of  repose  for  sick  or  dying  per- 
sons— a  provision  so  necessary  for  such  possible  events,  now  so 
little  regarded  by  the  modern  practice  of  ascending  to  a  bed  by 
steps,  like  clambering  up  to  a  hay  mow. 

A  lady,  giving  me  the  reminiscences  of  her  early  life,  thus  speaks 
of  things  as  they  were  before  the  war  of  independence  : — marble 
mantels  and  folding  doors  were  not  then  known ;  and  well  enough 
we  enjoyed  ourselves  without  sofas,  carpets,  or  girandoles.  A 
white  floor  sprinkled  with  clean  white  sand,  large  tables  and 
heavy  high  back  chairs  of  walnut  or  mahogany,  decorated  a 
parlour  genteelly  enough  for  any  body.  Sometimes  a  carpet, 
not,  however,  covering  the  whole  floor,  was  seen  upon  the  dining 
room.  This  was  a  show-parlour  up  stairs,  not  used  but  upon 
gala  occasions,  and  then  not  to  dine  in.  Pewter  plates  and  dishes 
were  in  general  use.  China  on  dinner  tables  was  a  great  rarity. 
Plate,  more  or  less,  was  seen  in  most  families  of  easy  circum- 
stances, not  indeed  in  all  the  various  shapes  that  have  since  been 
invented,  but  in  massive  silver  waiters,  bowls,  tankards,  cans,  &c. 
Glass  tumblers  were  scarcely  seen.  Punch,  the  most  common 
beverage,  was  drunk  by  the  company,  from  one  large  bowl  of 
silver  or  china ;  and  beer  from  a  tankard  of  silver. 

The  use  of  stoves  was  not  known  in  primitive  times,  neither  in 
families  nor  in  churches.  Their  fire-places  were  as  large  again  as 
the  present,  with  much  plainer  mantel-pieces.  In  lieu  of  marble 
plates  round  the  sides  and  top  of  the  fire-places,  it  was  adorned 
with  china  Dutch-tile,  pictured  with  sundry  scripture  pieces.  Dr. 
Franklin  first  invented  the  "  open  stove,'^  called  also  "  the  Frank- 
lin stove,"  after  which,  as  fuel  became  scarce,  the  better  economy 
of  the  "  ten  plate  stove,"  was  adopted. 

The  most  splendid  looking  carriage  ever  exhibited  among  us, 
was  that  used  as  befitting  the  character  of  that  chief  of  men, 
General  Washington,  while  acting  as  President  of  the  United 
States.  It  was  very  large,  so  as  to  make  four  horses,  at  least,  an 
almost  necessary  appendage.  It  was  occasionally  drawn  by  six 
horses,  Virginia  bays.  It  was  cream  coloured,  globular  in  its 
shape,  ornamented  with  cupids  supporting  festoons,  and  wreaths 
.  of  flowers,  emblematically  arranged  along  the  pannel  work ; — 
the  whole  neatly  covered  with  best  coach-glass.  It  was  of  Eng- 
lish construction. 

Some  twenty  or  thirty  years  before  the  period  of  the  revolution, 
the  steeds  most  prized  for  the  saddle  were  pacers,  since  so  odious 
deemed.  To  this  end  the  breed  was  propagated  with  much  care. 
The  Narraganset  pacers  of  Rhode  Island  were  in  such  repute 
that  they  were  sent  for,  at  much  trouble  and  expense,  by  some 
few  who  were  choice  in  their  selections.  It  may  amuse  the  pre- 
sent generation  to  peruse  the  history  of  one  such  horse,  spoken  of 


Furniture  and  Equipage.  26l 

in  the  letter  of  Rip  Van  Dam  of  New  York,  in  the  year  1711, 
which  I  have  seen.  It  states  the  fact  of  the  trouble  he  had  taken 
to  procure  him  such  a  horse.  He  was  shipped  from  Rhode  Island 
in  a  sloop,  from  which  he  jumped  overboard  when  under  sail 
and  swam  ashore  to  his  former  home.  He  arrived  at  New  York 
in  14  days  passage,  much  reduced  in  flesh  and  spirit.  He  cost 
£32,  and  his  freight  50  shillings.  This  writer  Rip  Van  Dam, 
was  a  great  personage,  he  having  been  President  of  the  Council 
in  1731  ;  and  on  the  death  of  Governor  Montgomery  that  year, 
he  was  governor  ex  officio,  of  New  York.  His  mural  monument 
is  now  to  be  seen  in  St.  Paul's  church. 

Mr.  A.  B.,  aged  seventy-five,  told  me  that  he  never  saw  any 
carpets  on  floors,  before  the  revolution  ;  when  first  introduced, 
they  only  covered  the  floors  outside  of  the  chairs  around  the 
room ;  he  knew  of  persons  afraid  to  step  on  them  when  they 
first  saw  them  on  floors ;  some  dignified  families  always  had 
some  carpets,  but  then  they  got  them  through  merchants  as  a 
special  importation  for  themselves.  Floors  silver  sanded  in 
figures,  &c.,  were  the  universal  practice.  The  walls  of  houses 
were  not  papered,  but  universally  whitewashed. 

Mahogany  was  but  very  seldom  used,  and  when  seen,  was 
mostly  in  a  desk  or  "  tea-table."  The  general  furniture  was 
made  of  "  billstead,"  another  name  for  maple. 

The  first  stoves  he  remembered  came  into  use  in  his  time,  and 
were  all  open  inside  in  one  oblong  square ;  having  no  baking 
oven  thereto,  as  was  afterwards  invented  in  the  "ten  plate 
stoves." 

He  thinks  coaches  were  very  rare ;  can't  think  there  were  more 
than  four  or  five  of  them ;  men  were  deemed  rich  to  have  kept 
even  a  chaise.  The  governor  had  one  coach ;  Walton  had  another  ; 
Colden,  the  lieutenant  governor,  had  a  coach,  which  was  burnt 
before  his  window  by  the  mob ;  Mrs.  Alexander  had  a  coach, 
and  Robert  Murray,  a  Friend,  had  another,  which  he  called  his 
"  leathern  conveniency,"  to  avoid  the  scandal  of  pride  and  vain 
glory. 


262      Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices. 


GAZETTES  OF  THE  OLDEN  TIME  AND  THEIR 
NOTICES. 

"These  mark  the  everyday  affairs  of  life." 

Although  the  old  Gazettes  of  colonial  days,  have  been  but  very 
tame  chroniclers  of  their  times,  as  compared  with  the  present  sur- 
charged sheets,  pregnant  with  everything  \  yet  they  all  tend 
more  or  less,  incidentally ^  to  show  forth  something  characteristic 
of  their  age,  and  of  their  then  "everyday  affairs  of  hfe." 

The  following  pages,  extracted  from  several  Gazettes  of  the 
times  referred  to,  will  more  fully  illustrate  what  we  mean :  and 
by  way  of  more  fully  describing  the  little  vehicles  of  intelligence 
used  by  "  the  gentlemen  of  the  olden  time,"  we  shall  begin  the 
present  chapter  with  the  thorough  exhibition  of  all  the  local 
facts  to  be  derived  at  one  time,  from  a  single  journal  of  the  day. 
Though  long  past  and  dead,  it  still  talks  to  us  of  the  age  in  which 
it  lived. 

We  use  first  the  New  York  Gazette,  revived  in  the  weekly 
Post  Boy  of  4th  March  1750-1,  No.  246;  printed  and  sold  by 
James  Parker  at  the  new  printing  office  in  Beaver  street.  The 
paper  is  printed  on  cap  sized  paper,  and  is  ten  shillings  a  year. 
Little  as  it  was,  it  must  have  been  a  well  prized  and  welcome 
visiter,  when  it  only  presented  itself  with  limited  information,  but 
once  a  week. 

Its  first  page  contains  the  proclamation  of  Governor  Belcher, 
of  Nova  Csssarea  (i.  e.  New  Jersey),  dissolving  the  then  refractory 
assembly,  which  refused  supplies,  and  quoting  from  his  letter 
from  the  lords  commissioners  of  trade,  that  they  were  resentful 
at  ''the  state  of  rebellion  in  which  the  colony  is  so  unhappily  in- 
volved." Frank  words,  and  rough  enough  to  the  Jersey  Blues, 
full  twenty-six  years  before  their  open  rebellion,  was  actually 
sustained  and  finally  finished. 

The  little  Gazette  has  several  short  advertisements  printed  all 
round  its  margins,  in  a  transverse  direction  to  the  column  matter. 
From  among  these,  I  give  the  following  specialties,  to  wit  : 

"  The  Public  Whipper  being  lately  dead,  twenty  pounds  a 
year  is  offered  to  a  successor  at  the  Mayor's  office." 

"  Good  Foot-linen-wheels,  are  advertised  for  sale,  made  at 
Oyster-bay,  and  sold  in  Beekman  street  near  the  new  English 
churchy  None  of  the  present  generation  are  aware  that  little 
wheels  to  move  by  the  tread  of  the  foot,  to  spin  linen-thread, 
were  once  so  designated,  to  distinguish  them  from  big  wheels 
turned  by  the  hand  to  spin  woollen  yarn. 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden  T^me  and  their  Notices.      263 

Plays.  "This  evening  will  be  presented  the  Bold  stroke  for  a 
Wife,  with  Daemon  and  Phillis,  for  the  benefit  of  Miss  George." 

"  Three  negroes — a  man,  woman,  and  girl,  to  be  sold  by  R. 
Griffiths.'' 

"  A  large  stable  and  chaise  house  behind  Whitehall  slip,  facing 
Copsy  battery,  for  the  use  of  receiving  such  by  the  ferry  boats, 
is  to  let."  The  word  copsy  is  now  obsolete.  It  was  spelt  capsey, 
and  meant  the  turning  point  at  the  battery. 

Among  the  other  advertisements  in  the  columns,  we  notice  the 
following,  as  marking,  local  names  and  localities,  now  no  longer 
familiar  to  the  ear — to  wit  : 

"To  be  sold,  a  plantation  of  15  acres,  of  John  Minthorne's, 
in  the  out  ward,  and  bouo^ed  on  the  east  side  oi  fresh  water,  and 
pleasantly  situated." 

The  present  Shrewsbury  river  is  called  Navesink's  river. 

"  Twelve  acres  of  salt  meadow  on  the  East  river  side,  back  of 
alderman  Stuyvesandt's,  is  to  be  sold  at  auction  at  the  Spring 
Garden." 

"  Half  of  the  ground  on  the  south  side  of  Crown  street,  com- 
monly known  by  the  name  of  Barberie's  Garden,  is  for  sale." 

"  Godfrey's  sea  quadrant  improved,  and  other  mathematical 
instruments,  are  made  and  sold  by  Anthony  Lamb."  A  special 
honour  to  Mr.  Godfrey's  important  invention,  which  we  were 
glad  to  see  thus  announced. 

Houses  situated  at  the  water  end  of  Broad  street,  are  termed 
as  "  lying  near  the  Long  bridge,"  and  good  "  for  merchants  or 
shop  keepers." 

Several  persons  give  notice  of  "  intending"  or  "  designing  for 
England." 

A  Mr.  Charles  Dutens,  teacher  of  French  and  jeweller,  gives  a 
long  advertisement,  full  of  self-conceit  and  egotism,  and  sprinkled 
throughout  with  scraps  of  Latin,  for  the  use  of  young  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  whose  love  of  learning  might  incline  them  to  take 
lessons  from  him  in  French,  at  his  house  near  the  Long  Bridge 
at  Broad  street,  where  he  also  makes  and  vends  finger  and  ear 
rings,  solitaires,  stay  hooks  and  lockets,  and  sets  diamonds,  rubies 
and  other  stones.  "  Science  and  virtue  (says  he,)  are  two  sisters, 
which  the  most  part  of  the  New  York  ladies  possess,"  meaning 
their  qualities;  and  to  induce  them  to  credit  his  assertion,  he  gives 
at  length  a  dream  which  he  had,  as  a  cause  that  "  he  came  to 
the  fancy  to  set  forth  the  present  advertisement." 

New  York  Mercury,  by  Hugh  Gaine,  on  Hunter's  Key,  began 
in  1752,  in  cap,  next  year  demi  size,  furnishes  facts  as  follows,  to 
wit: 

1753.  The  negro  fellow  who  committed  the  murder  oi  his 
master,  Jacob  Van  Naneste,  loas  burnt  at  Millstone,  New  Jersey, 
on  Wednesday  last.  He  stood  the  fire  with  the  greatest  intrepidity, 
and  said  "  they  had  taken  the  root,  but  left  the  branches." 


264      Gazettes  of  the  Olden  Time  and  their  Notices. 

A  very  good  assortment  of  Iron  ware,  is  advertised  at  the 
store  of  Rip  Van  Dam. 

An  advertisement  of  January,  1753,  reads  thus: — This  is  to 
acquaint  gentlemen  and  others,  who  have  a  mind  to  transport 
themselves,  wares,  or  merchandise  from  New  York  to  Philadel- 
phia, or  from  Philadelphia  to  New  York,  that  there  is  now  a 
stage  boat,  well  fitted,  kept  by  (Vm,  Vandrills,  who  proposes 
(wind  and  weather  permitting,)  to  sail  from  ^ew  York  to  Amboy, 
every  Monday  and  Thursday,  and  thence  by  wagon  to  Burling- 
ton, and  thence  take  passage  to  Philadelphia. 

Middling  and  single  refined  London  and  Boston  loaf  sugar,  is 
advertised.  "  Nutten  Island"  is  named  also  the  "  Meal  market," 
"  White  Hall,"  '*  The  Long  bridge"  across  Broad  street. 

The  new  Presbyterian  church  steeple  in  Philadelphia,  is  adver- 
tised to  be  made  by  lottery,  saying,  "  A  work  of  this  kind  (corner 
of  Arch  and  Third  streets),  which  is  principally  ornamental,  is  to 
be  encouraged  by  all  well-wishers  to  the  beauty  of  Philadelphia.^^ 
(It  was  common  then  to  advertise  lotteries  there,  for  several 
places  distant.) 

Hoop  Petticoats,  are  thus  noticed,  March,  1753.  "  Their  petti- 
coats which  began  to  heave  and  swell  before  you  left  us,  are  now 
blown  up  into  a  most  enormous  concave,  and  rise  more  and  more 
every  day !  The  superfluity  of  head  dress  lately  abandoned, 
seems  to  have  fallen  from  their  height,  only  to  extend  the 
breadth  of  their  lower  parts.  They  pretend  that  these  wide 
bottoms  are  airy,  and  proper  for  the  season.  Others  pretend  that 
their  whalebones  and  hoops  are  to  keep  off"  the  undue  approaches 
of  our  sex.  The  first  time  I  saw  a  lady  dressed  in  one  of  these 
petticoats^  I  could  not-  forbear  blaming  her  in  thought,  for  walk- 
ing abroad  when  so  near  her  time  to  stay  at  home,  but  soon 
recovered  myself,  by  the  observation  that  all  the  modish  part  of 
the  sex  were  as  far  gone  as  herself  I  It  is  generally  thought  how- 
ever, that  the  fashion  was  introduced  by  some  crafty  lady,  to 
conceal  some  mishap,  by  having  many  imitators.  In  the  mean- 
while one  cannot  but  be  troubled  to  see  so  many  well  shaped 
virgins  bloated  up,  and  waddled  up  and  down  like  big  bodied 
women.  Should  this  measure  become  general,  we  should  soon  feel 
the  want  of  street  room.  Congregations  already  begin  to  be  pinched 
for  room ;  and  should  the  men  fall  into  the  scheme  of  trunk- 
breeches,  by  way  of  reprehension  or  reprisal,  man  and  wife  could 
no  longer  sit  in  the  same  pew  !" 

The  Common  Council  notify,  that  all  persons  indebted  to  the 
city  corporation  for  quit  rents,  shall  pay  in  the  same  to  the  city 
chamberlain  or  treasurer. 

The  dress  of  an  Engraver  and  JeiMller,  of  twenty-five  years 
of  age,  runaway,  is  thus  given  : — A  blue  coat  with  black  mohair 
buttons,  blue  lapelled  waistcoat,  the  lapells  lined  with  black  velvet, 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices,      265 

a  pair  of  black  leather  breeches  with  solid  silver  buttons,  and 
brown  wig. 

Search  is  made  in  all  the  wards  by  the  constables,  for  small- 
pox, and  only  three  cases  found;  a  circumstance  of  much  joy 
to  all. 

A  writer  in  the  Gazette  of  April,  1753,  noticing  the  intended 
new  College,  deprecates  its  falling  into  the  hands  of  any  ascendant 
sect,  and  stating  the  Presbyterians  are  aiming  for  it,  says,  "  I 
shall  think  it  strange  if  our  legislature  shall  sufier  themselves  to 
be  either  jockied  or  bullied,  as  they  did  by  other  sects  in  the  case 
of  the  New  Jersey  college,  under  the  pretence  of  a  Catholic 
establishment.  [It  woulff  be  a  curious  history,  which  could  show 
the  true  cause,  why  all  the  colleges  have  been  so  universally  in 
the  hands  of  clergymen.     "  So  did  not  St.  Paul."] 

Four  horses  started  for  the  New  York  subscription  plate  on 
the  course  near  "  Greenwich."*^ 

The  London  Company  of  Comedians,  in  July,  1753,  address 
the  magistrates  and  the  public,  praying  the  grant  of  permission  to 
play,  and  saying  they  were  encouraged  to  go  to  New  York  as 
early  as  1750,  and  that  thereupon  Mr.  Hallam  undertook  to  send 
out  Mr.  Robert  Upton,  in  October,  1750,  to  perform,  erect  a 
building,  and  settle  permission,  &c.  For  this  purpose  he  had 
funds  from  Mr.  Hallam  ;  but  he  nevertheless  joined  himself  to  a 
set  of  pretenders,  and  did  nothing  for  Mr.  Hallam  &  Co.  In 
April,  1752,  Mr.  Hallam  &  Co.,  being  solicited  by  several  gentle- 
men in  London,  and  sundry  Virginia  captains,  they  embarked  and 
arrived  at  York  river,  Va.,  the  28th  of  June.  There  they  had  the 
grant  of  the  governor  to  perform,  and  remained  with  much 
applause,  eleven  naonths  ;  but  now  being  arrived  at  New  York, 
they  find  great  obstacles^  in  their  way,  although  they  had  been 
persuaded  to  visit  it  as  a  polite  city,  where  the  muses  could  find 
shelter,  and  not  that  the  instructive  and  elegant  entertainment  of 
the  stage,  was  to  be  utterly  banished  !  They  pray  a  reconsider- 
ation, and  that  they  may  be  permitted  to  show  their  ability  to 
support  the  dignity,  decorum,  and  regularity  of  the  stage. 

Green  mould  candles  for  sale,  at  the  Old  Slip  market.  [Pro- 
bably made  of  the  bayberry.] 

Charles  Sullivan's  tavern,  at  the  Fresh  water,  in  the  out  ward 
of  the  city. 

Frail  Ladies.  "  Last  Thursday,  (July,  1753,)  twenty-two 
frail  ladies,  taken  out  of  several  houses  of  ill  repute  in  this  city, 
were  committed  to  the  workhouse,  and  next  day  five  of  them 
were  condemned  to  receive  fifteen  lashes  each,  before  a  vast  con- 
course of  people.     All  were  then  ordered  to  leave  the  city.'' 

The  Post  Office,  at  the  Bowling  Green,  Broadway,  will  be 

open  every  day,  save  Saturday   afternoons  and  Sundays,  from 

eight  to  twelve  A.  M.,  and  from  two  to  four  P.  M.,  except  on 

post  nights,  when  attendance  will  be  given  till  ten  at  night,  by 

34  Z 


266      Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices, 

A.  Golden,  deputy  postmaster,  and  afterwards  postmaster.   N.  B. 
No  credit  in  future. 

Ran  away,  A.  Fitz  Morris,  a  taylor,  twenty-three  years  old, 
from  Ireland,  had  a  light  coloured  wig,  mouse  coloured  coat,  and 
blue  linings,  gold  twist  buttons,  black  stockings,  woollen  shag 
breeches.  Another  runaway,  is  said  to  have  "  his  hair  scalpea 
like  a  wig.^' 

Wire  Dancer.  Mr.  Dugee  performs  on  the  wire  and  slack  rope, 
by  permission,  at  a  new  house  built  for  that  purpose,  in  Mr. 
Adam  Van  Denberg's  garden. 

Red  Clover  seed,  offered  for  sale  near  the  Half  Moon  Battery, 
near  Whitehall  slip.  [This  shows  an  early  use  of  clover.'] 

Play  bill,  22d  of  October,  1753.  By  a  company  of  comedians 
from  London,  at  the  New  Theatre,  in  Nassau  street,  (by  his 
honour's  authority.)  Love  for  Love,  afterpiece,  Tom  Thumb  the 
Great,  Hallam's  family ;  Box  6s.  Pit  4s.  Gallery  2s.  The  next 
play  was  Richard  the  Third,  and  the  Devil  to  Pay.  They  go  to 
Philadelphia. 

French,  Low  Dutch,  Latin  and  English,  taught  by  Tho.  Ross. 

Patrick  Audley,  Taylor,  from  Great  Britain,  makes  gentlemen's 
laced  and  plain  clothes,  burning  dresses,  pantine  sleeves,  racoloes 
for  clergymen  and  others,  ladies'  Josephs. 

The  New  Exchange  is  now  opened  as  a  coffee-room,  by  Keen 
&  Lightfoot,  [near  the  meal  market,  I  believe]. 

A  Public  Library  is  to  be  formed  by  a  subscription  of  gentle- 
men, April,  1754. 

"  Roger  Magrah  is  moved  up  near  the  Horse  Sf  Cart  Inn,  in 
the  street  that  Alderman  Cortlant  lives  in." 

The  New  York  College,  opened  in  May,  1754  ;  is  helped  by  a 
lottery,  and  the  price  of  tuition,  under^  Samuel  Johnson,  princi- 
pal, a  former  missionary,  is  twenty-five  shillings  per  quarter. 
Numerous  discussions  concerning  the  sect  to  govern  this  college, 
appeared  in  the  Gazettes.  Some  claimed  for  the  Church,  others 
for  the  Presbyterians.  [Why  either  of  them  ?  and  why  not  a  civil 
institution?  Wm.  Livingston,  Esq.,  afterwards  governor  of 
New  Jersey,  was  a  frequent  writer  on  the  side  of  the  latter,  titled 
the  Watch  Tower.] 

Patrick  Flanley,  an  Irish  runaway,  is  thus  advertised;  had  a 
grey  homespun  coat,  lined  with  blue  shalloon,  fawn  skin  vest, 
hair  outside,  and  purple  sheepskin  breeches. 

M.  Derham,  milliner  from  London,  arrived  with  her  wares,  &c. 

The  Hon.  Shirley  Washington,  Esq.,  arrived  at  New  York, 
as  commander  of  his  majesty's  ship  Mermaid,  of  twenty  guns, 
from  England.  I  see  also  a  Captain  Washingtoii,  commander 
of  a  privateer.  I  notice  also,  a  Captain  Kid  often  arriving  at 
Philadelphia  from  Nova  Scotia. 

Albany  is  thus  noticed  by  a  writer  in  September,  1754,  saying : 
It  is  much  to  be  feared,  that  the  French,  before  a  declaration  of 


Exchange,  Wall  Street,  burned  1835,  p.  266. 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices.      267 

war,  may  attack  us,  and  if  they  do,  they  will  too  probably  take 
the  city  of  Albany,  whose  inhabitants  are  more  renowned  for 
the  artifices  of  traffic  and  the  thirst  of  gain,  than  for  a  military 
spirit. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Graham,  of  Rumbout  precinct,  in  Dutchess  county, 
"  continues  to  teach  Latin,  Greek  and  Hebrew,  very  cheap.^^ 

Of  Female  Dress.  "  These  foreign  invaders  first  made  their 
attack  upon  the  stays,  so  as  to  diminish  them  half"  down  the 
waist,  exposing  the  breast  and  shoulders.  Next  to  the  caps ; 
cut  off  the  flappets  and  tabs,  bored  and  padlocked  the  ears.  Next 
came  the  Avide  hoops  and  French  pocket  holes ;  and  last  of  all, 
have  lately  shortened  the  rear,  so  that  the  heels  and  ancles  are 
exposed,  even  to  the  very  gusset  and  clock !  0,  shame  .♦  shame  !" 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  all  of  the  names,  usually  found 
among  the  gentry  of  the  state  of  New  York  now,  generally 
professional  men,  are  all  to  be  found  in  the  advertising  columns 
of  these  old  Gazettes,  as  men  of  business.  There  we  read  of 
"  De  Lancey,  Robinson  &  Co.,  at  their  store  in  Duke  street." 
'^  Gerard  W.  Beekman's  dry  goods  store  ;"  "  Robert  G.  Livings- 
ton has  for  sale  ;"  "  To  be  sold  by  Le  Roy  &  Rutgers  ;"  '*  To  be 
sold  by  Philip  Livingston  ;"  "  James  Jauncey  has  for  sale ;" 
"For  sale  by  S.  G.  Lansing,  near  Coenties  market  f^  "  N.  W. 
Stuyvesant,  auctioneer."  The  truth  is,  concerning  such  business 
men,  that  they  were  at  the  top  of  society  ;  the  lawyers  and  doc- 
tors then  served  for  much  smaller  fees,  and  had  not  any  pre- 
eminence. It  is  only  of  later  years,  that  lawyers  have  got  so  much 
into  public  councils  and  state  affairs;  before  the  Revolution,  they 
were  much  restricted  to  small  local  affairs  ;  international  law  was 
not  required  and  was  not  studied.  Maritime  law,  and  insurance 
policies,  now  so  much  understood,  were  then  scarcely  known. 
They  have  since  got  rich  out  of  these  incidents  of  commerce,  and 
now  take  precedence  of  their  actual  makers.  Merchants  and 
riches  once  headed  all  things. 

Fencing  and  Dancing  is  taught  by  John  Rievers,  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Stone  street. 

*/i  Grand  Ball,  upon  the  occasion  of  St.  Andrew's  day,  was 
given  by  the  Scotch  Society,  at  the  Exchange  room,  and  King's 
Arms  tavern.  Many  officers  of  the  army  were  present;  the 
ladies  made  a  most  brilliant  appearance,  and  it  is  thought  that  there 
was  scarcely  ever  so  great  a  number  of  elegantly  dressed  fine 
women  seen  together  in  North  America.  The  officers  were 
peculiarly  delighted  and  surprised  with  so  many  interesting  ladies, 
more  than  they  had  ever  met  together  in  our  country. 

It  appears  that  the  new  gaol  was  built  by  a  lottery  ;  the  draw- 
ing was  published  of  it,  April,  1758.  A  lottery  is  also  made  to  pay 
^eilOO,  debt  of  the  city  of  Albany  by  the  war.  The  twenty-six 
hundred  men  to  be  raised  by  New  York  for  the  war,  were  each 
to  have  a  pair  of  buckskin  breeches. 


268       Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices. 

The  ways  of  Trade.  Nov.  1760.  Public  notice  is  given  by  the 
custom  house,  that  "  some  of  our  traders  from  foreign  ports,  have 
been  for  some  time  hovering  in  the  sound  and  on  the  coast,  with 
a  view  to  discharge  their  cargoes  duty  free  ;  all  good  citizens  are 
invited  to  aid  the  authorities  and  give  information,  &c.'' 

A  proclamation  from  the  governor  of  New  Jersey,  says,  It  is 
believed  provisions  and  lumber  are  intended  to  be  smuggled  off 
for  the  use  of  the  enemy,  hy  some. 

To  Let,  the  house  at  White  Hall,  now  in  the  possession  of  Lord 
London,  enquire  of  Frances  Moore,  nigh  the  Bowling  Green.  [She 
was  probably  the  widow  of  Col.  Moore,  the  original  proprietor.] 

1759.  Greenwich,  to  be  sold  by  A.  Sarzedas,  a  pretty  country 
seat,  nigh  the  North  river,  about  three  miles  from  the  city,  gener- 
ally known  by  the  name  of  Greenwich,  containing  four  acres, 
all  in  garden. 

South-east  Storm,  14th  February,  1759.  Joseph  Whipple,  Esq., 
deputy  governor,  going  to  his  lodging  in  the  evening,  by  reason 
of  the  great  damage  done  to  the  Long  wharf,  fell  in  and  was 
drowned.     He  had  a  great  funeral  train. 

The  curse  of  cowardice.  The  papers  are  all  well  filled  with 
calls  to  "  gentlemen  volunteers,  and  gentlemen  sailors,"  to  enlist 
in  Sir  this,  and  Sir  that's  regiment,  &c.,  and  also  several  adver- 
tisements for  deserters.  Among  the  other  allurements  to  enlist- 
ment, I  notice  a  kind  of  sermon  for  sale,  called  "  the  curse  of 
cowardice,'^  being  a  discourse  on  Jer.  xlviii.  10.  "  Cursed  be  he 
that  doeth  the  work  of  the  Lord  deceitfully ;  and  cursed  be  he 
that  keepeth  back  his  sword  from  blood."  The  author  says,  "  Ye 
young  and  hardy  men,  whose  very  faces  seem  to  speak  that  God 
and  nature  formed  you  for  soldiers,  ye  that  love  your  country, 
enlist ;  for  honour  will  follow  you  in  life  or  death.  Ye  that  love 
your  reUgion,  enlist ;  for  your  religion  is  in  danger.  Can  Pro- 
testant Christianity  expect  quarters  from  heathen  savages  and 
French  papists  ?" 

Q  Xh  aged  negro  man  on  Long  Island,  died  at  Smithtown,  in 
pufFolk  county,  say,  negro  Harry,  in  December,  1758,  at  least  one 
hundred  and  twenty  years  of  age  when  he  died.  He  remembered 
New  York,  he  said,  when  there  were  but  three  houses  in  it,  (and 
now  consider,  that  now  in  1834,  there  are  persons  alive  on  Long 
Island  who  could  have  seen  that  man  !)  He  could  do  a  good 
day's  work  when  past  one  hundred  years.  He  was  purchased 
at  New  York  by  Richard  Smith,  the  first  proprietor  of  Smithtown, 
and  descended  down  to  his  grandson.  Captain  Richard  Smith,  of 
the  same  town,  who  is  himself  past  sixty  years  of  age  in  1759. 
He  had  been  a  slave  one  hundred  years  in  Smith's  family,  and 
supposed  himself  one  hundred  and  forty  years  old ! 

The  New  York  Insurance  Office,  opened  at  the  house  of  the 
widow  Smith,  adjoining  the  Coffee-house,  another  at  the  Coffee- 
house is  called  "  the  old  insurance  office."  August  21,  1759. 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices.      269 

Places.  ^'At  Whitehall ^X  the  Ao^^5c  of  the  late  Col.  Moore;" 
"at  his  house  in  the  fly ;^^  Bayard  street;"  "Canons  Dock;" 
"Rotten  Row;"  "Wynkoop  street;"  "Royal  Exchange;" 
"Smith  Street;"  "Coenties  market;"  "on  Golden  hill;"  "the 
Long  bridge ;"  "  the  great  Dock  near  the  change ;"  "  Dock 
street ;"  "  Pot  Baker's  hill." 

1 760.  "  Scotch  carpets,"  a  variety  of  them  for  sale  by  Matthew 
Wilders — another  also  advertises  "an  assortment  of  carpets." 
[These  were  their  first  appearance  most  probably,  as  sand  was 
used  long  after.] 

Marriages  announced,  March  1 7.  Married  on  Tuesday  night 
last,  Mr.  Jacob  Walton  of  this  city,  merch't,  to  Miss  Polly  Cruger, 
daughter  of  Henry  Cruger,  Esq.,  an  eminent  merchant  of  this 
place ;  an  agreeable  young  lady,  possessed  of  every  good  quality 
to  render  the  marriage  state  completely  happy,  with  a  large  for- 
tune."— [The  mode  then  of  noticing.] 

A  Windmill  for  sale,  in  the  out  ward  of  the  city,  near  the  Bow- 
ery lane,  having  two  pair  of  stones,  inquire  of  John  Burling. 

Mary  Alexander,  relict  of  the  Hon.  James  Alexander,  deceased, 
and  mother  to  the  present  Earl  of  Stirling,  died  at  New  York, 
April  1760.  She  was  for  many  years  past,  a  very  eminent  trader 
in  this  place  ;  afterwards  her  shop  goods  are  advertised  to  be  sold 
oflf.  Lord  Stirling  was  two  years  after  made  one  of  his  Majesty's 
council  in  New  York. 

For  sale,  a  neat  assortment  of  women's  and  children's  stays — 
also  hoops  and  quilted  coats  ;  also  men  and  women's  shoes  from 
England. 

The  transport  vessels  at  New  York,  have  much  difficulty  to 
engage  their  crews  from  their  fears  of  impressment,  wherefore 
Gen.  Amherst  engages  to  give  such  men  a  certificate  of  protection 
provided  they  enhst  for  the  transports  dX  £Q  per  month. 

Persons  in  Albany,  advertise  their  stores  of  goods  in  the  city 
Gazette. 

Nicholas  C.  Bogert,  has  removed  his  store  from  his  father's,  to 
the  house  of  Capt.  Michael  Bogert  near  the  fly  market,  next  door 
to  Mr.  Bassetts,  where  he  has  for  sale  a  general  assortment  of 
goods  for  cash  or  short  credit.  Cornelius  Bogert  was  drowned 
at  the  flat  rock  battery,  in  bathing. 

Prices.     Nut  wood  355.  a  cord,  oak  wood  22s. — wheat  6s.  6d. 

Paper  Hangings.  A  new  article  of  genteel  patterns,  just  ar- 
rived and  for  sale  by  G.  Noel,  bookseller. 

Irish  beef  and  Irish  butter  for  sale  by  Greg  and  Cunningham ; 
also  Bristol  ale. 

Doctor  Guischard,  surgeon  from  Paris,  advertises  that  "  he  is 
experienced  in  women's  delivery,  and  will  with  the  help  of  the 
Lord,^'  prove  himself  serviceable  in  their  extremity. 

A  parcel  of  fine  young  slaves  just  imported  in  the  schooner 
Catherine  from  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  for  sale  at  Moore's  wharf, 

z  2 


270       Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices. 

by  Thomas  Randall  and  J.  Alexander.  [They  used  to  be  sold  also 
at  public  auction  on  board  vessels,  and  also  at  the  Coffee-house.] 

At  this  time  there  are  three  weekly  newspapers  in  New  York. 

Lotteries  for  many  places  are  from  time  to  time  advertised  to 
draw  upon  Biles'  Island — one  for  St.  John's  church,  Elizabeth- 
town — one  for  Shrewsbury  church,  &c.  &c. 

Doings  at  Perth  Amhoy,  July  7,  1760;  upon  the  arrival  there 
of  Gov.  Boone  to  take  his  government,  he  was  escorted  by  the 
troops  of  horse  of  EUzabethtown  and  Woodbridge ;  at  the  line 
of  the  city  he  was  met  by  the  mayor,  recorder,  aldermen,  and 
common  council  and  conducted  into  town,  afterwards  his  Excel- 
lency walked  in  procession  to  the  City  Hall,  where  he  was  pro- 
claimed. He  afterwards  gave  an  elegant  entertainment,  and  in 
the  evening  the  town  was  illuminated.  [Who  would  now  think 
of  such  things  of  the  present  little  Amboy.] 

The  arrival  of  ships  of  war  and  transports,  or  of  departures  of 
such,  are  frequent,  also  numerous  occasions  of  British  generals 
and  regiments  and  troops  coming  and  going  at  New  York  or  the 
adjacent  colonies,  is  frequent  during  the  Canada  war,  making 
New  York  quite  a  military  camp. 

Cotton  goods  advertised  for  sale  by  Thomas  Watkins,  [a  new 
article,  I  think]  a  neat  assortment  of  printed  cottons,  calicoes, 
and  chintz — boys  and  girls'  worsted  and  cotton  hose — cotton  and 
linen  checks — cotton  in  bales.  [A  Liverpool  paper  of  1834,  states 
that  the  first  bag  of  cotton  imported  into  that  place,  was  brought 
from  the  United  States  in  January  1785,  by  the  Diana,  and  she 
brought  only  that  one  bag.] 

I  never  see  Broadway  noticed  as  a  street;  but  as  often  as 
houses  there  are  advertised,  they  are  said  to  be  near  or  opposite 
to  some  one.     It  was  then  a  place  out  of  business. 

The  governor,  James  Delancy,  Esq.,. died  suddenly  "at  his 
seat  in  the  Bowery,  near  this  city." 

u  Perry  street^  The  burghers  of  this  street  "  are  said  to 
have  petitioned  to  enlarge  the  canal  or  drain  in  the  said  Ferry 
street,''''  [This  must  mean  Broad  street.]  The  ferry  stairs  was 
at  fly  market. 

James  Rivington,  bookseller  from  London,  has  just  opened  in 
Hanover  Square,  Sept.  1760,  and  is  called  "Me  only  London 
bookseller  in  America."  He  afterwards  became  "the  tory  printer" 
in  the  war  of  the  revolution. 

Henry  Whitman,  near  the  Oswego  market,  makes  ^^Philadel- 
phia buttons  and  buckles,"  as  cheap  and  good  as  can  be  purchased 
in  Philadelphia.  Many  counterfeits  have  been  sold  here,  but 
he  will  warrant  his  not  to  break. 

1761.  January  12,  Sunday.  Funeral  sermons  were  preached  in 
all  the  churches  in  the  city,  on  the  death  of  his  late  Majesty  George 
n.     All  the  public  actions  of  society  then  bespeak  much  loyalty. 

The  New  York,  New  England,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Quebec,  &c., 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices.      271 

Coffee-house,  which  has  been  kept  for  fifty  years  past  in  Thread- 
needle  street,  behind  the  Royal  Exchange,  is  now  to  be  removed 
for  a  short  time,  until  the  party  walls  of  the  house  can  be  rebuilt, 
by  Thomas  Lever. 

The  Hon.  Gen.  Moncton  "  dwells  in  the  commodious  house  in 
Beaver  street.'' 

Tincture  of  golden  rod  is  much  praised,  it  cures  quickly  grey 
flux — it  also  destroys  the  gravel  by  quickly  dissolving  all  gravel 
in  the  kidneys. 

The  General  Assembly  of  this  colony,  are  to  meet  March  24th. 
at  the  house  of  Tennis  Somerndyck.  [This  was  perhaps  in  con- 
sequence of  "repairing  the  City  Hall"  in  the  next  year,  1762.] 

H.  Levy  offers  for  sale,  hyson  tea,  coffee,  chocolate — English 
made  shoes. 

To  be  sold,  a  likely  breeding  negro  wench,  who  is  now  big 
with  child,  for  which  reason  she  does  not  suit  her  master.  [Plain 
direct  language  truly.] 

Evert  Fels,  inviter  to  the  funerals,  is  removed  from  Broadway 
down  to  the  North  river,  next  to  the  King's  stores. 

A  curricle  but  little  used,  for  sale  with  a  pair  of  blood  horses, 
at  Larey's  livery. 

The  light-house  at  Sandy  Hook,  is  to  be  erected  oti  ground  at 
Sandy  Hook,  which  is  to  be  purchased  with  £3000,  to  be  raised 
by  a  lottery.  A  second  lottery  was  made  for  ^63000  more  to 
build  the  light-house. 

Lost,  between  New  York  and  Greenwich,  a  green  purse  con- 
taining a  gold  jacobus,  a  half  and  quarter  Johannes,  and  three  or 
four  pieces  of  eight. 

Umbrellas  of  all  sorts,  men  and  boys  felts  and  castors,  and 
other  goods  for  sale,  by  John  Hamersly  &  Co.,  near  Coenties 
market,  [meaning  the  market  near  Coenties  house.] 

The  General  Assembly  of  New  Jersey  is  now  sitting  (July)  at 
Burlington  for  the  despatch  of  business.  [Can  any  one  now  tell 
which  was  their  hall,  and  where  the  Governor's  house.]  The 
same  question  might  be  asked  also  of  like  houses  at  Perth  Amboy. 

A  lottery  for  raising  £2800  to  pave  such  parts  of  Philadelphia 
streets,  as  the  managers  may  choose,  is  advertised — the  whole 
scheme  and  agent's  name,  at  New  York. 

A  shark  of  12  feet  in  length  was  caught  at  "the  ferry  stairs" 
[at  foot  of  Fly  market  I  think]. 

British  camps  were  sometimes  formed  on  Long  Island,  and 
sometimes  on  Staten  Island;  on  the  latter,  Gen.  Otway's  regiment 
encamped  in  August,  1761,  arrived  from  Albany — Gen.  Amherst 
also  staid  there. 

Persian  and  plat  carpeting — thread  and  cotton  hose  for  sale,  by 
H.  Van  Vleck.  [They  go  ahead  of  Philadelphia  in  such  luxuries]. 

The  Theatre.  Permission  has  been  given  by  the  lieutenant- 
governor,  to  Mr.  Douglass,  to  build  a  theatre. 


272      Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices. 

Impressment  is  so  much  feared,  that  people  are  afraid  to  visit 
New  York  harbour  as  usual  with  provisions.  The  Mayor  there- 
fore publishes  an  assurance  from  Capt.  Darby,  that  none  such 
shall  be  taken. 

Oct.  29.  Sir  Jetfery  Amherst  was  installed  as  knight,  at  Staten 
Island.  The  cause  and  the  occasion  was  this.  The  troops, 
eleven  regiments,  returned  from  the  war  on  the  Canada  frontiers, 
under  Gens.  Monckton,  Amherst,  and  Otway,  and  were  encamped 
from  August  to  November,  upon  the  centre  of  Staten  Island, 
where  they  formed  a  market  and  invited  sellers ;  while  there, 
orders  came  from  England  to  Major  Gen.  Monckton,  to  invest 
Gen.  Amherst  with  the  order,  which  he  did  in  a  public  manner 
before  the  army,  by  putting  the  ribbon  over  Sir  Jeffery's  shoulder. 
Gen.  Monckton  was  immediately  after  installed  as  Governor  of 
New  York,  and  a  procession  made  for  him  in  New  York,  and  at 
night  the  city  was  illuminated.  New  York  is  often  like  a 
military  camp,  always  troops  and  frigates  going  and  coming.  In 
this  matter  the  society  there,  must  have  always  been  very  differ- 
ent from  Philadelphia.  Gen.  Monckton  and  all  the  troops  went 
away  from  Staten  Island  on  the  15th  of  November,  with  a  fleet 
of  one  hundred  sail,  for  the  West  Indies.    What  a  sight ! 

Some  unusual  names  of  streets,  viz  :  "  Petticoat  lane  near  the 
fort,"  Chapel  street,  "  Rotten  Row  near  the  dock,"  at  another 
place  called  Rorten  Row,  "Synagogue  alley,"  "the  New  Dock." 

"  Pennsylvania  Stoves,  newly  invented,"  both  round  and 
square,  to  be  sold  by  Peter  Clopper. 

The  new  Theatre  in  Chapel  street,  (now  Beekman  street,) 
opened  November  IS,  1761,  with  the  tragedy  of  the  Fair  Penitent, 
box  8s.  pit  5s.  gallery  3s.  The  next  night,  "  the  Provoked  Hus- 
band," Douglass'  company. 

"  The  Trinity  Church  farm.''  Two  lots  thereon,  fronting  the 
upper  part  of  Broadway,  near  the  almshouse,  to  be  sold  under  its 
lease  of  eleven  years  to  come ;  having  thereon  two  tenements, 
and  in  the  rear  fronting  on  Murray  street,  one  other  house,  by 
John  Dowers. 

Fort  George.  Died  in  Fort  George,  Alice  Colden,  lady  of  the 
lieutenant-governor. 

Harpsicords  and  Spinnets  imported  and  for  sale,  by  Thomas 
Harrison,  organist  of  Trinity  church. 

A  variety  of  paper  hangings,  imported  from  London,  and  for 
sale  by  J.  Desbrosses.  [These  were  used  for  window  curtains, 
very  little  or  none  for  walls.] 

Elizabeth  Pitt,  mantua  maker  from  London,  works  in  the 
newest  fashion  ;  and  Elizabeth  Colvell,  milliner,  has  just  received 
a  fresh  supply  of  goods  from  London,  and  also  an  assistant  young 
woman  from  London. 

"  As  the  streets  are  to  be  lighted  hereafter,  conformable  to  law. 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices,      273 

we  may  expect  much  improvement  in  our  police  safety/'  &c. 
[This  meant  probably,  some  streets.] 

John  Higgins,  and  John  Anderson,  were  executed  "  at  Fresh 
watery^  for  passing  counterfeit  money.  The  same  Fresh  water 
is  named  in  the  act  of  December,  1761,  for  prevention  of  fires, 
saying,  "  no  pitch,  tar,  or  shingles,  shall  be  put  in  any  place  to  the 
southward  of  Fresh  water ,  [meaning,  I  presume  the  Kolch.] 

Severe  cold  weather,  March  18th,  "such  a  long  continuance 
of  severe  cold  at  this  season,  has  not  been  witnessed  for  many 
years." 

The  copper  mines  at  Second  river,  in  New  Jersey,  sustained  a 
great  loss  by  the  conflagration  of  the  fire  engine  house  and  the 
works  belonging  thereto,  and  about  two  thousand  cords  of  wood. 
"The  loss  to  Mr.  Schuyler  must  be  ten  thousand  pounds!"  It 
was  afterwards  burnt  a  second  time,  at  great  loss. 

April  26.  His  excellency.  Sir  Jeffery  Amherst,  upon  the  anni- 
versary of  St.  George,  gave  a  ball  to  the  ladies  and  gentlemen 
of  this  city,  at  Crawley's  new  assembly  rooms.  The  company 
consisted  of  ninety-six  ladies,  and  as  many  gentlemen,  all  very 
richly  dressed ;  and  it  is  said  the  entertainment  was  the  most 
elegant  ever  seen  in  America. 

Money  Diggers.  In  May,  1762,  Nicholas  Bayard,  ofiers  a 
reward  of  ^5,  to  be  informed  who  it  is  that  comes  by  night  to 
his  farm,  near  the  city,  and  digs  great  holes  in  his  land,  to  the 
damage  of  his  people  and  cattle.  If  they  be  money  diggers,  he 
says,  he  will  allow  them  the  indulgence  of  a  search,  if  they  will 
come  to  him  personally,  and  dig  by  daylight,  and  fill  up  again. 
He  will  also  give  them  two  spades  and  one  pick-axe,  left  behind 
in  their  supposed  fright. 

The  memoirs  of  Major  Robert  Rogers,  a  partisan  officer  of 
celebrity  in  the  Indian  wars  near  Canada,  since  1755,  in  three 
volumes,  8vo.,  for  twenty  shillings.  It  might  be  a  curious  his- 
tory. His  name  often  appears  in  enterprising  scouts.  Where  is 
the  book  now  to  be  found  ?   [I  believe  he  became  a  tory.] 

May,  1762.  An  act  is  passed  for  raising  ^3000,  to  repair  the 
city  hall. 

Lawrence  Kilbrun,  continues  portrait  painting,  in  Crown  street. 

Thomas  Jackson,  teaches  Latin  and  Greek,  at  the  head  of 
New  street,  opposite  the  Presbyterian  church. 

Wm.  Clajon  is  teacher  of  French,  in  Beaver  street. 

A  public  and  weekly  concert  of  music  is  held  by  Leonard  and 
Dieuval,  music  masters. 

Marriages.  April  26.  On  Tuesday  night  last,  Mr.  Nicholas 
Bayard,  Jr.,  of  this  city,  merchant,  was  married  to  Miss  Livings- 
ton, daughter  of  Mr.  Peter  Van  Brough  Livingston,  of  this  place, 
merchant ;  a  very  agreeable  young  lady,  endowed  with  all  the 
good  qualities  necessary  for  rendering  the  connubial  state  per- 
fectly agreeable.  [This  was  then  the  mode.'] 
35 


274      Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices, 

Rogers  &  Humphreys  open  the  While  Hall  Coffee-house, 
commodiously  situate  at  White  Hall,  where  all  the  foreign  and 
home  gazettes,  will  be  kept  on  iile. 

[^Philadelphia  July  1.  Abraham  Taylor,  Esq.,  alderman  and 
deputy  collector,  and  holding  various  olfices  among  us  for  thirty 
years,  on  the  occasion  of  his  going  to  reside  in  England,  was 
entertained  by  an  hundred  of  the  principal  gentlemen  of  the  city, 
at  the  State  House.  John  Taylor,  Esq.,  Middleown,  N.  J.,  is 
named,  1750,  to  sell  laws  of  New  Jersey.] 

Six  privateers,  brigs  and  schooners,  are  fitted  out  at  New  York, 
against  the  Spaniards,  in  a  short  time. 

French  and  Latin  taught  to  young  persons  of  both  sexes,  and 
boarded  also,  by  the  Rev.  Frederick  Rothenbuhler,  minister  of  the 
Reformed  Swilzer  church,  in  New  York. 

Original  manner  of  taking  up  lands  in  Neio  York,  by  patent, 
viz  :  "  Whereas  his  majesty,  king  James  H.,  by  his  letters  patent 
under  the  great  seal  of  the  province  of  New  York,  bearing  date, 
the  17th  October,  1685,  did  grant  and  confirm  unto  Francis  Rum- 
bout,  Jacobus  Kip,  and  Stevanus  Van  Cortlandt,  all  that  tract  or 
parcel  of  land,  situate  on  the  east  side  of  Hudson  river,  and  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Highlands,  beginning  from  the  south  side  of 
the  Fish  Kill,  and  from  thence  northward  along  said  Hudson  river 
five  hundred  rods  beyond  the  Great  Wappenger's  Kill,  being  the 
northerly  bounds,  and  from  thence  into  the  woods,  four  hours 
going,  or  sixteen  English  miles,  &c.,  [running  afterwards  four 
hours  going  in  another  direction.]  There  are  as  many  as  half  a 
dozen  such  large  tracts,  equally  early  granted  to  other  companies 
of  men,  at  other  places,  and  which  came  to  be  advertised  in  1762, 
on  a  call  for  a  division  of  the  tracts,  by  heirs,  claiming  under  an 
act  just  passed  by  the  council,  for  such  purpose.  [It  would  seem 
as  if  many  persons,  associated  in  families  often  or  twelve  names, 
for  very  small  gifts,  to  take  up  unsettled  back  lands,  along  the 
North  river,  as  big  as  twenty  miles  square,  and  so  in  after  years, 
made  their  descendants  rich  gentry.  Their  names  are  often 
published.] 

Morrison,  peruke  maker  from  London,  dresses  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen's hair  in  the  pohtest  taste ;  he  has  a  choice  parcel  of 
human,  horse,  and  goat  hairs  to  dispose  of 

Gen.  Monckton,  who  last  year  was  made  governor  of  New 
York,  went  off  immediately  afterwards  with  the  fleet  and  army, 
to  the  West  Indies,  where  he  conquered  JMartinico  and  the  Lee- 
ward Islands,  and  subsequently  the  Havannah,  and  then  returns 
back  to  New  York  within  a  single  year,  and  repossesses  his  gov^- 
ernment !  Such  governors,  and  the  troops  and  vessels  of  war, 
usually  at  and  near  New  York,  must  have  had  a  powerful  effect 
in  making  the  top-society  there  of  a  military  cast.  It  is  published 
in  the  Gazette,  the  amount  of  "  the  first  division  of  the  prize 
money,"  resulting  from  the  Havannah  enterprise  alone,  producing 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden  Time  and  their  Notices.        275 

£317,000,  of  which  the  navy  and  army  took  equal,  divisions,  and 
one  cannot  but  wonder  to  see  how  quickly  a  commander-in- 
chief  is  excessively  enriched ;  the  fact,  may  tend  to  explain 
why  we  so  often  hear  of  immensely  overgrown  fortunes  in  Great 
Britain,  with  a  general  mass  of  population  so  very  poor  !  In  this 
case.  Gen.  Monckton's  personal  share  amounts  to  £86,000,  nearly 
400,000  dollars,  while  the  actual  helot,  the  poor  private,  receives 
but  fifty-seven  shillings,  or  twelve  dollars  !  Many  of  our  own 
citizens,  both  in  Philadelphia  and  New  York,  enlisted  for  and 
went  out  in  this  expedition.  It  is  probable  that  Gen.  Monckton 
eventually  realized  a  million  of  dollars,  as  his  share  in  all  the 
service  of  the  year,  and  with  such  a  fund  he  was  able  to  make 
some  dashing  display  in  the  little  city  of  New  York.  While  on 
this  subject,  we  will  add,  what  is  known  but  to  few,  some  further 
brief  notice  of  the  scale  of  prize  money  awarded  in  the  afore- 
mentioned division,  showing  throughout,  the  scheme  of  greatly 
enriching  one  man,  at  the  expense  of  many  ;  for  even  generals, 
if  subordinate,  suddenly  fall  to  much  inferior  sums,  thus :  the 
lieutenant-general  gets  £17,000,  a  major-general  £4,900,  any 
field  officer  £380,  captains  £130,  sergeants  £6,  corporals  £4,  and 
privates  57s.  6d.  There  were  fourteen  men  of  war  taken  at  the 
Havannah.  [In  the  war  of  the  revolution,  a  Col.  Monckton  fell 
at  the  battle  of  Monmouth,  of  whom  the  song  said, — "  Monck- 
ton's  laurels  fell  that  day,  to  grace  the  brow  of  gallant  Wayne  !"] 
Gov.  Monckton  resigned,  and  went  home  in  June,  1763. 

Rivington  &  Brown,  advertise  among  other  articles,  finest 
tooth  powder,  neatest  tooth-pick  cases,  but  no  tooth  brushes  or 
picks  are  mentioned. 

Michael  De  Bruls,  forms  and  offers  for  sale,  when  wholly 
engraved,  two  water  views,  and  two  land  views  of  the  city  of 
New  York,  with  references  in  English  and  Dutch,  to  be  twenty- 
one  by  twelve  inches,  and  to  be  accompanied  by  pamphlets  of 
explanation.     If  any  copies  exist  now,  they  would  l3e  curious. 

The  race  courses  are  often  noticed  as  at  Harlaem,  and  some- 
times round  "  the  Beaver  pond,"  at  Jamacia,  L.  I. 

1763.  James  De  Lancey,  advertises  land  in  the  Bowery,  and 
at  Corlear's  Hook,  for  gardeners,  &c.,  for  terms  of  twenty-one, 
forty-two,  or  sixty-three  years,  several  acre  lots.  Some  of  their 
low  prices  then  would  be  strange  now,  by  comparison. 

Two  hundred  lots  of  ground  joining  the  Stoccadoes,  west  of 
Broadway,  and  along  the  North  river,  are  advertised  to  be  let  for 
twenty-one,  forty-two,  or  sixty-three  years,  by  the  church  war- 
dens of  Trinity  church.  It  might  be  interesting  now  to  know  by 
what  means  and  bequests  they  became  owners. 

James  Gilliland,  earthen,  delf,  and  glass  warehouse,  in  Wall 
street,  has  the  following  named  articles,  viz  :  enamelled  and  cab- 
bage tea-pots,  cut  and  ground  decanters,  tumblers,  punch  glasses, 
and  wine  glasses. 


276       Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices, 

The  noted  iun  and  tavern  in  the  Bowery  lane,  near  the  wind- 
mill, at  the  sign  of  the  Bull's  head,  (where  the  slaughter  house  is 
now  kept,)  lately  kept  by  Caleb  Hyatt,  is  now  occupied  by 
Thomas  Bayeux,  who  is  well  provided  with  all  conveniencies 
for  travellers. 

Mr.  Steel  has  removed  the  King^s  Arms  tavern,  from  opposite 
the  Exchange,  to  the  Broadway,  at  the  lower  end,  opposite  the 
fort.     I  have  preserved  some  good  facts,  as  at  this  tavern. 

Spring  Garden,  near  the  college,  now  kept  by  John  Elkin ; 
breakfasting  from  seven  to  nine.  Tea  in  the  afternoon,  from  three 
to  six.  The  best  of  green  tea,  and  hot  French  rolls.  Pies  and 
tarts  will  be  drawn  from  seven  to  nine.  Mead  and  cakes.  Gen- 
tlemen and  ladies  may  depend  on  good  attendance. 

The  common  council,  by  order  of  15th  August,  1763,  declare 
that  whereas,  several  persons,  who  lately  purchased  at  public  ven- 
due for  a  term  of  years,  several  lots  leased  out  in  the  common 
lands  of  this  city,  have  since  signified,  that  their  purchase  is 
found  to  be  too  high,  to  permit  them  to  make  any  proper  improve- 
ments, without  a  positive  loss,  therefore  it  is  ordered  that  instead 
of  paying  double  rent  after  the  expiration  of  the  first  term  of 
twenty-one  years,  the  said  lots  shall  be  leased  for  the  term  of 
forty -two  years,  at  the  same  price  as  they  engaged  the  first  term 
of  twenty-one  years.  The  same  lots,  if  now  offered  for  sale, 
what  advance  would  thpy  not  bring  ? 

In  August,  1763,  the  common  council  determines  the  prices  of 
market  sales.  We  are  surprised,  that  they  could  thus  impose 
limited  prices  upon  countrymen,  to  wit :  for  pork  4:\d.,  for  pigs 
5fi^., 'for  veal  5d.,  mutton  3hd.,  for  a  goose  1^.  Qd.,  for  turkey  4.?., 
duck  9d.,  oysters  2s.  per  bushel,  opened  oysters  35.  per  gallon, 
clams  Qd.  per  hundred,  bass  2d.,  &:c.  In  a  few  months  after,  they 
rescinded  part  of  the  above,  so  far  as  to  leave  the  prices  of  domes- 
tic and  wild  fowl  undetermined. 

To  be  sold,  fourteen  years  lease  of  a  house  and  large  lot  of 
ground,  pleasantly  situated  in  the  fields,  or  Vineyard  No.  4 ;  a 
very  convenient  place  for  any  sort  of  public  business,  enquire  of 
Neal  Shaw,  rope  maker,  next  door  to  the  premises. 

The  Bake  house,  at  the  corner  of  John  street  and  Broadway, 
is  advertised  for  sale,  and  has  a  bolting  house  and  new  cistern 
annexed,  for  sale  by  G.  Van  Bomel. 

The  act  to  regulate  the  markets,  speaks  of  them  thus  :  At  the 
market  house  at  the  slip,  called  Coenties  dock,  [this  is  sometimes 
spelled  Coenjes  and  Coenjies,]  at  the  mansion  house,  at  the  old  slip, 
commonly  called  Burger's  path,  at  the  mansion  house  at  or  near 
Countess'  key,  commonly  called  Countess'  slip,  and  at  the  man- 
sion house  in  the  Broadway,  commonly  called  Broadway  market. 

Dr.  Clossy's  anatomical  lectures,  begin  on  Friday  evening, 
November  25th,  1763. 

Died,  at  Jamaica,  Long  Island,  (called  also  Nassau  Island,) 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices.       277 

John  Crockeser,  an  extremely  aged  person.  He  had  been  a 
soldier  in  the  fort  at  New  York,  in  Governor  Leister's  time,  (the 
civil  war)  and  while  a  young  man,  he  had  often  shot  squirrels, 
quails,  &c.,  on  or  near  Pot  Baker's  hill,  in  this  city,  which  was 
then  a  wilderness.  He  had  lived  so  long,  that  it  had  outrun  his 
computation.  [Think  of  a  man  alive  in  1763,  of  course  seen  by 
persons  still  alive,  and  he  had  seen  New  York  city  in  its  infancy, 
and  now  it  is  so  mighty  !] 

Gold  and  silver  lace  buttons,  and  gold  and  silver  garters,  for 
sale  by  E.  Graham,  tailor. 

The  farm  or  plantation,  in  the  Bowery  lane,  of  twenty  acres 
of  rich  land,  the  estate  of  Robert  Benson,  deceased,  is  for  sale. 

We  are  informed  that  Dr.  George  Muirson  has  established  two 
hospitals  for  inoculation  of  the  small-pox ;  on  Shelter  isla7id, 
near  the  east  end  of  Long  Island.  [This  shows  the  terror  at  that 
day  of  the  small-pox,  and  here  the  diseased  were  intended  to  be 
isolated  from  all  possibility  of  infecting  others.] 

Wanted  immediately,  a  well  behaved,  ingenious  lad,  of  four- 
teen or  fifteen  years  of  age,  of  respectable  parents,  who  can  write 
a  good  handy  and  understands  arithmetic,  to  be  an  apprentice 
in  this  city,  to  a  Doctor^s  business.  Does  not  this  mean,  in  his 
drug  shop,  as  physicians  once  kept  each  their  own  drugs  and 
shop.  James  Murray  was  at  same  time,  "  druggist  and  whole- 
sale apothecary,  from  London." 

It  strikes  me  as  a  fact  of  some  interest,  and  as  a  curiosity  in 
itself,  that  in  my  reading  through  various  years  of  old  newspapers, 
that  it  should  never  have  occurred  to  any  one  mind  or  writer, 
even  incidentally,  to  speak  of  their  then  sense  of  the  actual 
changes  passing  upon  society  and  the  country,  compared  with 
their  primitive  days,  as  either  remembered  by  the  most  aged,  or 
as  handed  down  by  tradition.  No  passing  events  seem  ever  to 
have  elicited  such  thoughts ;  not  even  the  publication  of  the 
deaths  of  their  peculiarly  aged;  whom,  as  in  the  case  of  Smith's 
negro  Harry,  or  of  John  Crockeser,  who  had  seen  New  York 
when  it  was  only  a  newly  started  village.  Surprise  is  expressed, 
and  surprise  only ;  it  draws  out  no  remembered  tales  or  traditions. 
1  presume,  that  the  cause  then,  was  like  the  cause  now  among 
the  thousands ;  they  thought  only  of  their  present  sense  of  an 
established  and  settled  country  and  manners,  and  thought,  if 
they  thought  at  all  on  the  subject,  time  past,  is  buried  in  oblivion, 
and  is  too  remote  to  be  worth  the  research.  In  families,  and  in 
domestic  circles,  the  younger  branches  could  be  amused  for  a 
time,  with  the  tales  of  the  grand-daddy's  and  mammy's  of  their 
day,  and  while  they  thought  to  retain  them  in  the  memory,  they 
lost  them  all,  for  want  of  some  written  record. 

[The  file  of  Gazettes  for  the  years  1764-5,  were  missing  !] 

The  papers  are  daily  charged  with  measures  and  proceedings  of 
men  in  the  colonies  concerning  the  Stamp  act.   They  are  generally 

2  A 


278      Gazettes  of  the  Olden  Time  and  their  Notices. 

called  "Sons  of  Liberty."  Every  number  of  the  Gazette  is 
headed  with  this  sentence  as  its  motto.  "  The  united  voice  of 
all  his  majesty's  free  and  loyal  subjects  in  America. — Liberty  and 
Property,  and  no  Stamps." 

Jan.  13,  176S,  immediately  after  Capt.  Haviland  arrived,  a 
company  of  armed  men  went  on  board  at  night  near  Cruger's  dock, 
and  after  obhging  the  men  to  give  up  the  keys,  they  seized  ten 
boxes  of  the  Stamp  papers,  which  they  conveyed  in  a  boat  to 
the  ship-yard,  where  they  made  a  bonfire  of  them,  together  with 
some  tar  barrels. 

Mr.  Van  Schaick  of  Albany  having  applied  to  be  a  Stamp 
master,  he  was  waited  upon  by  the  people  there  to  require  his 
renunciation,  and  they  not  receiving  satisfactory  assurances,  they 
assembled  soon  after  in  force  and  seized  his  person,  putting  a 
halter  round  his  neck  and  dragging  him  through  the  town,  until 
he  adroitly  slipped  the  noose  and  made  his  escape  into  the  fort, 
whereupon  the  people  being  much  incensed,  went  back  to  his 
house  and  demolished  his  furniture,  equal  to  four  or  five  hundred 
pounds  !  [This  story  was  soon  after  corrected,  saying  that  only 
the  furniture  was  destroyed,  but  no  violence  done  to  his  person.] 

The  Sons  of  Liberty  met  every  Tuesday  evening  at  the  house 
of  Mr.  Howard,  (headed  by  Sears  and  M'Dougall,  both  sea-cap- 
tains,) and  had  their  regular  correspondence  with  the  Sons  of 
Liberty  in  the  neighbouring  colonies. 

The  first  Resolve— of  the  six,  which  formed  their  compact, 
reads — "  Resolved,  that  we  will  go  to  the  last  extremity,  and  ven- 
ture our  lives  and  fortunes,  effectually  to  prevent  the  Stamp  act 
from  ever  taking  place  in  this  city  and  province." 

The  plan  of  bringing  live  Jish  to  the  New  York  market  origi- 
nated with  a  society  of  gentlemen  who  clubbed  to  fit  the  smack 
Amherst  for  that  purpose  ;  her  example  induced  many  individuals 
to  do  the  same,  so  that  in  this  year,  the  supply,  ybr  the  first  time, 
was  plentiful  enough  to  induce  the  company  to  break  up  and  sell 
their  vessel. 

Windsor  chairs^  made  and  sold  by  Wm.  Gautier,  to  wit : — high 
back'd,  low  back'd  and  sackback'd  chairs  and  settees,  also  dining 
and  low  chairs.     [These  were  probably  the  first  of  their  kind.] 

A  house  on  Long  Island  at  Jamaica,  of  large  dimensions,  is 
advertised  for  sale,  the  whole  having  sash  windows,  and  newly 
wholly  repaired.  [Sash  windows  were  a  new  affair  then.  Leaden 
frames  were  used  before.] 

Carriages.  Elkanah  and  Wm.  Deane,  from  Dublin,  profess  to 
open  as  a  new  affair  the  construction  of  all  manner  of  carriages 
at  five  per  cent,  below  importation  prices,  and  have  brought  out 
their  workmen  at  great  expense.  Profess  to  make  coaches, 
chariots,  landaus,  phaetons,  post-chaises,  curricles,  chairs,  sedans, 
and  sleighs,  also  to  gild  and  japan,  and  carve  and  paint,  &c. 

Hats.    Nesbitt  Deane,  from  Dublin,  makes  finest  beaver  hats, 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices.       279 

for  clergymen  and  other  gentlemen,  black,  white  and  green  hats, 
riding  hats,  and  flat  crowned  ditto,  ruflled  and  plain  for  ladies  and 
children.  Beaverets  and  castor  hats.  He  turns  and  dresses  old 
hats.     [Only  think  of  turned  hats  !1 

^'  The  Fresh  Water" — for  sale,  the  house  where  Thos.  Gallaudet 
now  lives  in,  at  Fresh  Water,  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  main 
street  or  road  leading  into  the  Bowery,  on  the  rising  of  the  hill, 
directly  opposite  the  Jews'  burying  ground. 

The  news  of  the  Stamp  act  repealed  on  3d  March  17G6,  give 
great  joy  every  where.  Of  these,  many  public  demonstrations 
are  given.     The  joy  in  England  was  equally  great. 

Theatre.  On  the  5th  May,  it  was  advertised,  that  at  the  thea- 
tre in  Chapel  street,'*  would  be  performed  the  comedy  of  the 
"Twin  Rivals,  and  the  King  and  the  Miller  of  Mansfield." 
N.  B.  As  the  packet  has  arrived  and  brought  good  news  respect- 
ing the  repeal,  it  is  hoped  the  public  has  no  objection  to  the 
performance,  which  is  given  by  permission  of  his  excellency  the 
Governor.  [It  appears  however  that  some  of  the  people  were 
offended,  for  the  next  paper  contains  the  fact,  that  they  actually 
demolished  the  house  !]  It  is  related  "  that  many  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, who  deemed  it  highly  improper  that  such  entertainments 
should  be  exhibited  in  a  time  of  such  public  distress,  when  so 
many  poor  could  scarcely  find  means  of  subsistence,  talked  so 
freely  of  their  intended  opposition  to  the  play,  that  many  were 
prevented  from  going."  After  the  play  began,  the  multitude  burst 
open  the  doors  and  entered  with  tumult.  The  audience  escaped 
as  they  could,  and  many  lost  their  hats,  a  boy  had  is  scull  frac- 
tured and  was  trepann'd.  The  crowd  quickly  pulled  down  the 
house,  and  carried  the  pieces  to  the  commons,  and  consumed 
them  in  a  bonfire."  [I  take  the  above  as  told  in  the  Gazette,  to 
be  a  version,  nearer  to  the  truth,  of  the  same  fact  told  by  me  in 
my  Historic  Tales  of  New  York,  p.  176.] 

On  the  occasion  of  the  final  repeal  of  the  Stamp  act,  by  its 
supplement,  it  was  celebrated  in  New  York  with  great  demon-, 
strations  of  joy.  The  Sons  of  Liberty  met  at  their  usual  rendez- 
vous, Howard's  in  the  Park  as  I  believe]  where  they  invited  all 
the  citizens  to  unite  with  them,  "  in  consequence  of  which  a  great 
number  assembled  in  the  fields,  where  a  royal  salute  was  fired 
and  at  every  loyal  toast  at  Howard's  seven  cannons  were  fired  ; 
at  night  there  was  a  general  illumination. 

The  king's  birthday  on  the  4th  June,  which  so  soon  followed, 
was  seized  upon  as  a  suitable  occasion  to  prove  at  once  their 
loyalty  and  gratitude  for  the  recent  repeal.  All  the  city  authori- 
ties waited  upon  the  governor  to  drink  the  king's  health.  The 
battery  and  men-of-war  guns  were  fired.     Two  large  oxen  were 

*  Now  Beekmans  street,  then  called  Chapel  street  because  of  St.  George*s 
chapel  there. 


2 so      Gazettes  of  the  Olden  Time  and  their  Notices. 

roasted  on  the  commons  [the  Park]  before  numerous  spectators, 
a  large  stage  was  erected  having  the  roasting  ox  at  each  end, 
on  which  was  placed  twenty- five  barrels  of  strong  beer,  three 
hogsheads  of  rum,  sugar  and  water  to  make  punch,  bread,  &c.;  at 
one  end  of  the  common  was  a  pile  of  twenty  cords  of  wood  with 
a  tall  mast  in  the  middle,  to  the  head  of  which  was  hoisted  twelve 
tar  and  pitch  barrels,  and  placed  on  a  round  top.  At  the  other 
end  of  the  common  were  fixed  twenty -five  pieces  of  cannon  and  a 
lofty  flag-staff  and  colours.  [The  moderns  have  never  since  wit- 
nessed such  a  bonfire  !]  There  was  a  general  illumination  at 
night.  The  governor  and  all  the  officers  of  state  and  militar^^ 
dined  together  and  drank  toasts,  which  are  pubhshed, — loyal  but 
free.  The  dinner  was  given  by  the  principal  inhabitants.  [It 
was  done  I  think  at  Howard's,  at  the  commons.]  Pitt,  the  Earl 
of  Chatham,  is  always  extolled. 

"  To  you,  blest  Patriots,  we  our  cause  submit, — 
Illustrious  Camden,  Britain's  guardian  Pitt,^^ 

At  Woodbridge  N.  J.  they  roasted  an  ox  near  the  great 
"  Liberty  Oak,"  which  was  handsomely  decorated,  and  many 
colours  were  displayed  in  different  parts  of  the  square.  The 
ladies  genteelly  dressed,  also  graced  the  entertainments  of  the 
day,  dined  principally  upon  plum  puddings  in  honour  to  the 
queen,  and  afterwards  regaled  themselves  with  plum  cakes, 
tea,  &c.  In  the  evening  the  town  was  illuminated  and  a  large 
bonfire  made  near  to  the  Liberty  Oak. — "As  near  as  the  safety 
of  that  ancient  tree  would  admit  of" 

•Attorneys  and  Scriveners.  Charles  Morse,  attorney  at  law,  at 
Pot-baker^ s  Hill,  also,  John  Coghili  Knapps,  from  London,  at 
his  office  Rotten  Row.  The  places,  may  now  sound  strangely 
among  the  New  York  profession.  The  last  was  of  Inner  Temple, 
and  educated  at  Oxford. 

Statue  of  Pitt.  At  a  meeting  of  citizens  at  the  Coffee-house, 
the  23d  June  '66,  it  was  resolved  to  request  their  representatives 
in  the  General  Assembly  to  provide  a  statue  of  Brass  to  the 
memory  of  the  Right  Hon.  Wm.  Pitt,  the  great  friend  of  American 
freedom,  especially  shown  upon  the  occasion  of  the  Stamp  act 
repealed.  [So  they  granted  £7000  to  procure  a  statue  of  Pitt  from 
London.     It  was  set  up  in  Sept.  1770,  of  marble,  in  Wall  street] 

Renelagh  Gardens.  By  John  Jones,  are  laid  out  at  great  ex- 
pense, for  breakfasting  and  evening  entertainments  for  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  judged  to  be  far  the  most  rural  and  pleasing  retreat 
near  the  city.  A  complete  band  of  music  is  engaged  to  perform 
every  Monday  and  Thursday  evening  during  the  summer.  A 
commodious  hall  is  in  the  garden  for  dancing,  with  drawing  rooms 
neatly  fitted  up,  good  pasturage  at  same  place. 

Dancing  is  taught  by  John  Trotter  in  Chapel  street,  next  door 
to  the  play  house,  [meaning  where  it  was,  or  else  it  had  been 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices,      281 

rebuilt,]  and  also  at  Mrs.  Demot's  on  Flat  I  en-Bar  rick  hill,  [then 
the  alley  descending  from  Broadway  opposite  to  Exchange  street.] 

Concerts  of  Music,  are  given  by  Edward  Bardin,  innkeeper 
at  the  King's  Arms  garden  in  the  Broadway  [near  the  fort,] 
three  times  a  week  in  the  evening,  in  a  neat  and  commodious 
room  in  the  garden ;  tickets  1*.  This  place  was  much  visited 
by  the  military. 

James  Daniel,  wig-maker  and  hair-dresser,  also  operates  on  the 
teeth,  a  business  so  absolutely  necessary  in  this  city,  [This 
seems  like  the  first  appearance  of  a  a  dentist ! 

A  whale  forty-nine  feet  in  length,  was  killed  by  two  persons 
fishing,  who  saw  it  swimming  about  near  Coney  Island.  They 
killed  it  with  an  old  sword.  Mr.  Coffer  at  the  ferry  at  Brooklyn 
bought  it  for  thirty  pounds,  and  brought  it  up  to  his  ferry. 

A  lobster  weighing  eighteen  pounds  was  sold  for  2s.  6d. 

What  is  now  called  the  Park,  used  to  be  called  the  Fields,  for 
instance,  "  at  Howard's  noted  tavern  in  the  Fields'* — on  Broad- 
way. 

John  De  la  Somet,  died  at  Fauquier  in  Virginia,  in  Oct.  1766, 
aged  one  hundred  and  thirty  years  ;  he  had  been  banished  from 
France  for  his  religion,  in  1684,  and  was  soon  after  brought  out 
with  many  other  Frenchmen  to  Virginia,  to  settle  the  Brentin 
lands.  He  was  hearty  to  the  last,  and  was  the  frst  of  his  numer- 
ous progeny  of  his  name,  that  had  died  in  Virginia  ! 

St.  Paul's  church  was  opened  in  Nov.  1766,  its  first  sermon  by 
Dr.  Auchmuty. 

A  linen  manufactory  was  set  up  near  the  Fresh  Water,  many 
women  were  employed  spinning  by  hand.  Its  productions  were 
carried  weekly  to  the  market.  It  was  deemed  patriotic  to  en- 
courage it.     [It  began  three  years  before.] 

Robert  Woffendale,  Surgeon  Dentist,  lately  arrived  from 
London,  performs  all  operations  upon  the  teeth,  gums,  sockets 
and  palate ;  also  fixes  artificial  XeeX\i  so  as  to  escape  discernment. 

1767.  A  lottery  is  granted  by  the  colony  of  New  Jersey  to 
raise  five  hundred  pounds  to  defray  the  expenses  of  running  a 
straight  road  through  the  province  between  New  York  and  Phila- 
delphia. 

Cheap  land,  10,000  acres  at  2s.  6d.  per  acre  clear  of  quit  rent, 
situate  on  the  branch  of  the  river  Delaware,  about  fifty  miles  to 
the  northward  of  upper  Minisink.  It  is  good  land,  has  much  low 
land  along  the  two  rivers,  Delaware  and  Popaghton,  has  been 
patented  sixty  years,  and  now  for  sale  by  James  Parker,  New 
York.  We  cannot  but  wonder,  what  that  tract  might  bring  to  his 
heirs,  if  it  had  been  retained  in  the  family  to  this  day  !  Ameri- 
can officers  received  grants  of  five  thousand  acres.  How  certain 
to  enrich  their  families  !  [There  was  a  Receiver  General  for 
quit  rents] 

A  stated  meeting  of  the  Hand  in  Hand  Fire  Company.  The 
36  2  a2 


282      Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices. 

clerk  will  notify  the  place  of  meeting  and  inspect  the  buckets, 
bags,  belts,  hand-barrows,  baskets,  &c. 

The  Liberty  Pole,  on  the  city  parade,  called  "  the  Common," 
was  found  cut  down  in  March  1766,  and  produces  an  angry 
paragraph,  saying  it  is  suspected  to  have  been  done  by  some 
soldiers  to  otfend  the  Sons  of  Liberty,  and  they  are  therefore 
forewarned,  that  as  it  was  instantly  set  up  again  with  a  covering 
of  iron  near  the  base  to  prevent  a  simihar  insult,  nothing  but 
bloody  work  can  be  expected  from  a  repetition !  It  was  cut 
down,  while  the  friends  of  Liberty  were  commemorating  the 
repeal  of  the  Stamp  act.  The  act  was  believed  to  have  been 
done  by  the  British  soldiery.  Many  efforts  they  made  to  destroy 
it  secretly,  and  the  people  were  equally  vigilant  to  prevent  it. 

It  was  in  this  strife  that  the  people  seized  upon  Cunningham 
the  Provost,  then  a  sergeant,  and  whipped  him,  and  thus  caused 
his  vengeful  spirit  afterwards  to  us. 

Stage  Wagons  to  Philadelphia.  Persons  may  now  go  from 
New  York  to  Philadelphia  and  back  again  in  five  days,  and  re- 
main in  Philadelphia  two  nights  and  one  day  to  do  their  business 
in,  fare  20.9.  through  ;  there  will  be  two  wagons,  and  two  drivers, 
and  four  sets  of  horses.  John  Mercereau,  proprietor  at  Blazing 
Star.  The  company  to  go  over  to  PaulUs  Hook  ferry  the  evening 
before,  and  to  start  thence  the  next  morning  early. 

The  wood-cut  of  the  wagon,  is  a  really  Jersey  wagon  form. 

1767.  The  anniversary  of  the  king's  birth-day  (June),  was 
celebrated  beyond  all  former  pomp,  the  fire-works  were  magnifi- 
cent, there  was  a  general  illumination,  and  particularly  at  the 
Fort  George  and  at  Gen.  Gage's  dwelling,  (of  the  Royal  Arms.) 
Elegant  entertainments  were  given  at  Fort  George  and  head 
quarters  by  Sir  Henry  Moore,  governor,  and  Gen.  Gage,  at 
which  were  all  the  officers  of  the  army  and  navy,  the  civil  officers 
of  the  city,  and  the  principal  gentlemen.  A  salute  of  twenty-one 
guns  was  given  from  the  Liberty  Pole,  and  from  the  fort  and 
armed  vessels. 

Several  articles  occur  in  the  Gazette  of  a  wish  and  a  design  to 
have  a  national  paper  currency  for  the  provinces,  to  be  furnished 
by  England,  as  something  needed  in  America  for  the  stability  of 
trade. 

The  theatre  in  St.  John^s  5/ree/  opened  the  7th  Dec.  '67,  with 
the  comedy  of  the  Stratagem.  Hallam  and  Douglass'  Co. — 
Boxes  8.S.  pit  5.9.  gallery  35.  The  plays  do  not  appear  to  excite 
any  printed  animadversions.  They  are  called  the  American 
company. 

1768.  The  journeymen  tailors,  "about  twenty  of  them" 
struck  for  wages,  and  advertised  themselves  as  opening  a  "  house 
of  call,"  where  they  would  receive  orders,  to  send  men  to  work  in 
private  families  at  3-9.  6a?.  a  day  and  their  diet  to  be  found  them. 

When  the  Presbyterians  opened  their  "  new  brick  church"  on 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices.      283 

the  1st  Jan.  it  was  called  "  their  new  church  on  the  Green^^  in 
aUusion  to  its  being  then  open  to  the  common^  now  called  the 
Park.  ["  Cowfoot  hill  at  the  upper  end  of  Queen  street"  is 
named.] 

« Numerous  articles  appear  for  and  against  the  theatre,  while 
the  American  company  is  playing. 

Mr.  J.  Kidd,  is  named  as  one  of  the  inhabitants  of  Philadelphia, 
,  a  merchant. 

A  Snow,  from  London  to  Wayland,  with  convicts^i^  short  of 
provisions  and  had  to  eat  their  shoes  and  leather  breeches,  several 
died.  There  were  upwards  of  one  hundred  prisoners  on  board. 
She  got  drove  off  the  coast  and  actually  arrived  at  Antigua. 

The  cold  at  New  Orleans  the  beginning  of  Jan.  exceeded  any 
ever  before  remembered. 

John  Baker,  Surgeon  Dentist,  announces  his  arrival  at  New 
York,  May  1768,  via  Boston  from  Europe  ;  he  fills  up  teeth  with 
lead  or  gold  ;  makes  artificial  teeth  and  fixes  them  with  gold,  &c. 

There  is  much  public  discussion  upon  the  right  or  utility  of 
introducing  Bishops  into  this  country.  The  disputants  are  angry. 
The  whigs  resist  their  order,  here. 

Medical  lectures,  held  at  King's  College  Nov.  '68,  to  wit: — 
The  Theory  of  Medicine,  by  Dr.  Middleton.  Anatomy,  by  Dr. 
Glossy.  Theory  and  practice  of  Surgery,  by  Dr.  Jones,  and 
Practice  of  Physic,  by  Dr.  Bard. 

Christopher  Steter  advertises  that  he  had  belonged  to  a  benefit 
club  kept  at  David  Grim's  house  in  Chapel  street,  and  as  a  mem- 
ber, had  paid  fees ;  first  a  tax  on  matrimony  of  5s.  to  the  box, 
4s.  fee  when  a  son  was  born,  and  2s.  when  a  daughter  was  born. 
He  complains  that  the  monies  collected  were  misapplied  in  feasts 
&c.,  among  the  officers  ! 

Irish  potatoes,  dry  and  good,  are  advertised  as  arrived  and  for 
sale.  A  very  frequent  fact  is,  the  sailing  of  vessels  to  Ireland, 
to  Dublin,  Newry,  Londonderry  and  Cork;  two  or  three  are  some- 
times up  for  each  of  these  places  at  a  time. 

The  auctioneers  were  several — say,  Nich.  W.  Stuy vesant  &  Co., 
M'Davitt,  Moore  &  Lynsen,  Abeel  &  Neils,  A.  &  J.  Bleekers. 

Domestic  manufactures  of  wool  and  flax,  are  encouraged  by 
the  society  for  American  productions.  They  award  premiuns. 
Families  are  named  which  have  produced  seven  hundred  yards 
of  domestic  fabrics. 

Wm.  Livingston,  Esq.,  attorney  at  law  (afterwards  governor  of 
New  Jersey)  in  his  proper  name,  publishes  his  demurs  to  the 
admission  of  Bishops,  in  his  "  answers  to  the  Bishop  of  Llandafi^'s 
sermon."* 


*  We  may  see  by  Gov.  Livingston's  life,  since  published,  that  feelings  of  dis- 
trust then  mutually  felt  by  churchmen  and  dissenters  in  the  colonies,  were 
then  agitating  the  same  elements,  which  began  the  revolution.    "  Close  examina- 


284      Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices. 

January  1769.  Michl.  Poree,  Surgeon  Dentist,  advertises,  to  fit 
natural  and  artificial  teeth,  from  a  single  one  to  a  whole  set,  like- 
wise cleanses  teeth,  and  draws  stumps.     [First  practice  there.] 

The  theatre  in  John  street,  will  be  opened  by  the  American 
Co.,  by  permission  of  the  governor,  on  Monday  the  9th  Jan'y. 

Married,  Capt.  Saml.  Partridge,  to  Miss  Elizabeth  Hubbert, — 
"  a  lady  of  great  merit,  with  every  accomplishment  to  render  the 
marriage  state  happy."     [The  mode  in  that  day  of  advertising.]  > 

Mrs.  Fisher,  advertises  her  services  as  midwife,  near  White- 
hall. 

Public  Vendue,  is  advertised,  to  sell  goods  on  the  bridge  near 
the  Coffee  House. 

Stays.  Richard  Norris,  from  London,  makes  all  kinds  oi  stays 
and  stumps,  turned  and  plain,  with  French  and  Mechlenburg 
waistcoats,  laced  overcoats,  German  jackets  and  flips. — Ladies 
uneasy  in  their  shape,  he  fits  without  any  incumbrance  ;  growing 
Misses  inclined  to  coats  and  risings  in  their  hips  and  shoulders, 
he  likewise  prevents,  by  means  approved  by  the  society  of  stay- 
makers  in  London. 

The  New  York  Chamber  of  Commerce  was  instituted  May 
1768, "  and  hear  all  proposals  for  the  better  regulating,  encouraging 
and  extending  trade  and  commerce."  A.  Van  Dam,  Secretary. 

Non-importation  agreements  are  made  and  signed  by  the  mer- 
chants. 

A  house  and  lot  to  sell  on  "  Cowfoot  Hill.'^  So  queer  a  name  ! 
also  "  Pot-baker's  hill !" 

An  act  is  passed  to  prevent  the  destruction  of  deer  by  blood- 
hounds or  beagles,  in  the  counties  of  Albany,  Ulster  and  Orange. 

Mary  Morcomb,  mantua  maker  from  London,  at  Isaac  Garniers 
opposite  to  Batloc  street,  in  the  Broadway,  makes  all  sorts  of 
negligees,  Brunswick  dresses,  gowns,  and  other  apparel  of  ladies, 
also  covers  Umbrellas  in  the  neatest  manner. 

Oysters.  To  prevent  the  destruction  of  oysters  in  South  bay, 
by  the  unlimited  number  of  vessels  employed  in  the  same,  it  is 
ordered  that  but  ten  vessels  shall  be  allowed,  and  that  each  half- 
barrel  tub  shall  be  paid  for  at  2d.  according  lo  the  town  act  of 
Brook  Haven. 

The  death  of  the  Gov.  Sir  Henry  Moore,  who  died  at  Fort 
George,  is  thus  celebrated.  The  paper  is  marked  with  mourning 
borders.  He  was  interred  in  the  chancel  of  Trinity  church  :  the 
corpse  was  preceded  by  the  16th  Regt. ;  his  Majesty's  council 

tion  (says  the  life)  shows  us  that  these  two  factions  contained  the  germ  of  the 
whig  and  tory  parties  of  the  revolution."  "  There  were  exceptions  on  both  sides, 
but  a  sreat  majority  of  the  DeLancey's  faction  (churchmen's  side)  remained  in 
New  York  after  1776  under  the  British  protection.  O.  DeLancey  was  made  a 
Br.  General  in  their  ranks."  James  DeLancey  was  head  of  the  Episcopalians 
in  New  York.  Their  leading  interest  in  the  College  was  much  resisted  by  the 
Presbyterians.  The  former  wanted  an  Episcopal  governor  and  Bishop  from 
England.    Trinity  church  got  amply  favoured. 


Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices.       2S5 

supported  the  pall.  Gen.  Gage  and  Lord  Drummond  followed 
among  the  mourning  relatives,  and  in  the  suite  were  the  physi- 
cians, the  judges  and  civil  officers  of  the  city,  members  of  Assem- 
bly, the  field  officers,  captains  of  ships  of  war,  the  general  staff, 
the  gentlemen  of  the  Law,  Faculty  of  the  College,  and  the  princi- 
pal inhabitants  of  the  city.  The  train  of  artillery  brought  up  the 
rear.  Minute  guns  were  fired  during  the  procession.  Twenty  boys 
of  the  Charity  school  bore  lighted  flambeaux,  and  the  church  was 
illuminated.     This  funeral  was  in  the  evening,  in  English  style. 

Mrs.  Lydia  Robinson,  of  seventy  years  of  age,  who  followed 
the  practice  of  midwifery  for  thirty-five  years  at  New  London 
and  its  vicinity,  in  the  delivery  of  twelve  hundred  children,  never 
lost  one  woman  in  her  practice !  What  doctors  could  excel 
this ! 

Jeremiah  Rensselaer,  Esqr.,  "  the  Lord  of  the  Ma7ior  of  Rens- 
selaerwyck,  died  lately  at  Albany,  much  lamented." 

Wm.  Prince,  on  Long  Island,  advertises  a  great  collection  of 
fruit  trees. 

1770.  The  "No.  45."  This  was  of  great  signification  in  its 
time,  and  might  now  be  wholly  unintelligible,  but  for  the  follow- 
ing illustration,  to  wit.  A  true  female  friend  to  American  liberty 
lately  (in  Feb.  '70)  presented  Capt.  JVPDougaPs  mariners  with  a 
fine  saddle  of  venison,  marked  with  the  important  Q^  No.  45 
in  allusion  to  the  45th  page  of  the  votes  and  proceedings  of  our 
House  of  Assembly,  in  which  the  paper  that  furnished  the  occa- 
sion for  that  gentleman's  commitment  is  printed  at  length.  The 
trial  of  Capt.  McD.,  was  deemed  very  interesting  to  the  public. 
It  was  said  of  him  at  the  time,  that  "  this  worthy  gentleman  will 
be  justly  celebrated  by  posterity^  as  the  first  who  has  suffered 
actual  imprisonment  for  asserting  the  cause  of  American  liberty. 
He  was  finally  discharged  without  trial. 

Anthy.  Rutgers'  place  near  the  city  is  said  to  comprise  six  acres 
of  upland  and  twelve  acres  of  fresh  meadows.  The  upland  con- 
tains half  in  garden,  and  the  other  half  in  fruit  trees.  Advertised 
to  sell  or  let,  "  lying  in  the  meadows  near  Fresh  Water,"  to  be 
sold  in  lots. 

In  July,  about  half  of  the  whole  community  of  dealers  and 
traders  in  New  York,  publicly  recede  from  their  non-importation 
agreement,  and  their  names  are  given. 

Lord  Dunmore,  afterwards  so  celebrated  in  Virginia,  arrives 
in  October,  as  Governor  of  New  York,  £2000  a  year  salary. 

A  fair  is  opened,  for  four  days  at  New  York,  in  November, 
according  to  an  act  of  the  legislature,  for  cattle,  grain,  provisions, 
and  merchandize. 

W.  C.  Hulet,  teaches  dancing,  violin,  flute,  and  small  sword. 

1771.  The  Vauxhall  gardens  comprise  thirty-six  lots  on  lease 
for  sixty-one  years  to  come,  from  Trinity  church,  is  for  sale,  by  its 
Luidlord,  Saml.  Francis.  [This  same  man  became,  I  believe,  Gen. 


286      Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices. 

Washington's  steward  at  New  York  city,  and  afterwards,  after  the 
peace,  opened  the  Indian  Queen  in  Philadelphia.] 

1772.  Montanny's  negro  man,  a  drunkard,  who  had  been  sent 
to  the  Bridewell  to  receive  the  usual  punishment,  was  found 
dead  the  same  night !  The  punishment  in  such  cases,  was  a  plen- 
tiful dose  of  warm  water  (three  quarts)  and  salt  enough  to  ope- 
rate as  an  emetic ;  with  a  portion  of  lamp  oil,  to  operate  as  a 
purge ! 

Robert  Home,  musical  instrument  maker  from  London,  on 
Golden  hill,  near  Burling's  slip,  makes  and  repairs  musical  instru- 
ments. 

James  Rivingston,  bookseller  and  publisher,  facing  the  Coffee- 
house bridge. 

Governor  Tryon,  who  succeeds  Lord  Dunmore,  visits  Philadel- 
phia, in  October ;  and  a  Uttle  before,  the  latter  passed  through 
Philadelphia  on  his  way  to  Virginia  and  his  government  there. 

The  military  force  of  the  city,  of  the  militia,  consisted  of  seven 
independent  companies,  viz.,  the  Grenadiers,  two  companies  of 
the  Governors'  Guards,  the  Rangers,  and  the  corps  of  Artillery. 
These  together,  sometimes  made  good  display  before  the  governor 
and  the  citizens. 

[All  the  foregoing  close  with  the  year  1772,  and  their  interest 
seems  to  diminish  as  we  approach  nearer  and  nearer  to  our  own 
times.  It  is  rather  strange  that  in  so  many  pages  of  many  specu- 
lations and  many  minds  combined,  that  there  should  be  so  little 
reference  to  a  former  age,  of  traditionary  accounts  and  reminis- 
cences ;  nothing  for  instance,  in  any  form,  about  the  former  pirates, 
nothing  of  Blackbeard  or  Kidd  ;  and  nothing  of  all  the  ballads  ! 
They  all  seem  to  live  in  a  state  of  sleepy  and  dreamy  forgetful- 
ness.] 

"Rotten  Row,"  before  named  often,  as  described  to  me  as 
seen  by  Thos.  Crowell,  was  a  regular  range  oi  good  houses  front- 
ing the  river,  having  an  open  river  bank  in  front,  without  any 
wharves  or  slips,  and  extending  from  the  Old  Slip,  up  to  the 
Coffee-house.  They  ranged  fronting  of  Hanover  Square,  and  laid 
eastward  of  present  Pearl  street.  It  formed  a  great  dock,  or 
haven  of  four  hundred  feet  width,  in  which  were  laid  numerous 
Bermuda  sloops,  heads  on  shore,  and  several  there  were  laid  sides 
on  shore,  for  purposes  of  caulking  and  pitching  their  bottoms.  The 
present  generation  know  nothing  of  these  things !  Mr.  Crowell  told 
me  this  in  1836  at  eighty- four  years  of  age,  he  could  not  explain 
why  called  Rotten  row.  But  I  much  more  incline  to  believe 
it  was  named  after  the  same  name,  then  in  London.  Mr.  Crow- 
ell's  father  was  a  lieutenant  in  a  war  vessel  before  the  revolution. 

Printing  concerns.  We  suppose  that  the  first  printing  press 
set  up  in  New  York,  was  that  begun  in  1693  by  Wm.  Bradford, 
who  went  there  from  Philadelphia.  It  was  his  grandson  Bradford, 
who  became  afterwards  Attorney  General  of  the  United  States. 


Gazettes  0/  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices.      287 

We  infer  that  Bradford  was  the  earliest  printer,  because,  the 
publication  entitled  "  The  conditions  for  new  Planters  in  the  terri- 
tories of  his  Royal  Highness,  the  Duke  of  York ;"  done  upon  a 
half  sheet  of  cap  paper,  and  bearing  the  date,  1665,  was  "  printed 
at  Cambridge,  in  Massachusetts." 

Bradford  began  the  ^rst  weekly  paper  at  New  York,  on  the 
16th  of  October,  1725,  and  John  Peter  Zanger,  who  went  to 
New  York  in  1726,  and  began  his  paper,  the  Weekly  Journal,  in 
1733.  Bradford  was  a  loyalist,  and  took  the  side  of  power ;  but 
Zanger  sided  with  the  natives,  and  became  most  popular  with 
the  people,  who  in  truth,  started  him  purposely,  that  they  might 
thus  canvass  the  measures  of  the  governor  and  council.*  He 
was  prosecuted  by  the  crown  officers  for  his  attacks  on  them,  and 
encountered  a  trial  in  1735,  in  which  he  was  acquitted,  which 
made  much  stir  at  the  time.  Mr.  A.  Hamilton,  the  ablest  lawyer 
of  Philadelphia,  went  on  as  a  volunteer  to  defend  him,  and  the 
city  council  of  New  York,  as  a  token  of  their  gratification  at  his 
success,  presented  him  the  freedom  of  the  city  in  a  gold  snuff- 
box with  devices.     It  might  be  a  pleasure  now  to  see  it. 

The  first  book  printed  in  New  York,  was  a  small  thin  folio  of 
the  laws  of  the  colony,  by  Bradford.  His  newspaper  of  1725, 
was  also  the  Jirst  Gazette. 

When  we  contemplate  printing  as  it  was,  and  press  work  now, 
as  it  is,  in  connection  with  the  intended  foreign  sneer,  of  "  who 
reads  an  American  book,"  we  cannot  but  feel  emotions  of  wonder 
and  self  gratulation.  We  have  now  only  to  look  at  such  a  print- 
ing establishment  as  the  Harpers^  in  New  York — self-made  men, 
who  now  publish  all  kind  of  useful  works,  and  have  a  capital 
employed  therein,  of  one  and  a  half  millions  of  dollars.  Such  an 
office  for  book  printing  is  well  worth  a  visit  as  a  curiosity  to 
every  literary  man.  They  give  employment  to  1600  persons, 
400  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  machinery.  They  use  an  edi- 
fice equal  to  seven  or  eight  large  five  story  houses,  and  use  up 
70  reams  of  paper  daily.  The  machinery  and  tools  of  the  bindery 
are  valued  at  ^13,000 ;  50  barrels  of  flour  and  40  barrels  of  glue 
are  used  up  annually  for  paste ;  60,000  pounds  of  type  are  found 
in  the  composing  rooms. 

Besides  such  an  establishment,  we  may  notice  too,  the  printing 
house  of  Dickenson  at  Boston,  and  the  "Methodist  Book  Con- 
cern" in  New  York,  both  of  them  great  concerns,  and  only  second 
to  that  of  the  Harpers.  The  Boston  publishing  office  of  Dicken- 
son, covers  an  area  of  14,000  square  feet,  and  is  lighted  by  100 
windows,  having  10  power  presses  worked  by  steam,  and  11  by 
hand.  The  Methodist  concern  runs  12  double  cylinder  presses. 
Can  we  now  be  asked,  "  who  reads  an  American  book  ?" 

*  The  governor  and  council  being  offended  at  his  strictures,  they  imprisoned 
Zanger,  and  ordered  three  of  his  papers  to  be  burnt  by  the  sheriff. 


288       Gazettes  of  the  Olden   Time  and  their  Notices. 

It  was  about  the  year  1818,  that  a  part  of  the  Daily  press  of 
our  country  began  to  reprint  for  corrupt  minds,  from  the  Bow- 
street  intelligence  of  the  London  print.  The  example  thus  fur- 
nished, soon  produced  a  morbid  taste  among  ourselves,  an  appe- 
tite for  this  kind  of  gross  fare.  We  soon  became  such  apt 
scholars,  that  we  have  long  since  been  able  to  furnish  our  own 
stock  of  police  news,  sufficiently  loathsome  and  pernicious  to 
minister  to  this  branch  of  depraved  taste.  Alas,  that  it  is  so,  and 
that  it  is  so  much  countenanced.  It  is  from  such  fountains  of 
corruption,  that  so  many  foreign  exhibitors  of  demoralizing  spec- 
tacles, and  lecturers  on  corrupting  subjects,  find  their  encourage- 
ment and  support.  The  favourable  reports  of  duels,  presented 
in  the  hardihood  of  self-complacency  by  the  parties  themselves, 
is  another  of  our  growing  evils  produced  by  the  action  of  the 
press,  and  by  the  too  frequently  tolerated  action  of  the  army  and 
navy,  leading  by  their  influence  to  the  imitation  of  our  citizens. 
It  was  not  always  so — scarcely  any  duels  occurred  in  our  revolu- 
tionary war,  and  yet  who  has  ever  doubted  of  the  equal  courage 
and  self-respect  of  the  officers  of  that  period. 

The  restrictions  set  upon  our  mechanics  before  the  revolution 
are  in  general  but  very  little  known  now  to  the  mass  of  the  peo- 
ple. The  mother  country  purposed  to  engross  the  making  and 
vending  of  almost  all  we  used.  Even  our  very  minds  were  put 
under  her  dictation  and  teaching,  and  we  were  scarcely  permitted 
to  think,  but  in  such  kind  of  literature  as  she  chose  to  command 
and  bestow.  In  this  way,  we  had  our  primers  and  testaments,  and 
Dilworth's  spelling-books  and  arithmetics.  We  made  no  books 
for  ourselves  ;  and  since  we  have,  in  more  modern  times,  essayed 
to  form  our  own  literature,  we  have  seen  it  frequently  abused  by 
foreign  reviewers,  &c.,  as  defective  and  imbecile.  Some  of  our 
own  people  have  so  far  subscribed  to  this  selfish  and  perverted 
design,  as  to  give  little  value  to  our  home  productions,  until  they 
had  previously,  by  unbecoming  subserviency,  gained  first  the 
foreign  passport  of  approbation ! 


Longevity. 


289 


LONGEVITY. 


«'  The  frosts  of  ninety  years  have  passed 
Upon  these  aged  heads, 
They  seem  a  fine  old  relic  cast. 
From  days  that  long  have  fled." 


John  S.  Hutton,  aged  109  years,  and  silversmith,  of  Philadel- 
phia, as  he  related  the  particulars  of  his  life  to  the  late  C.  W. 
Peale,  was  born  in  New  York,  in  1684.  He  was  originally  bound 
apprentice  to  a  sea  captain,  who  put  him  to  school  to  learn  the 
art  of  navigation.  At  that  time  he  became  intimate  with  a  boy 
who  worked  at  the  white-smith  trade,  with  whom  he  amused 
himself  in  acquiring  the  use  of  the  hammer,  by  which  means  he 
obtained  a  facility  in  working  at  plate-work  in  the  silversmith's 
business.  He  followed  the  seafaring  life  for  thirty  years,  and  then 
commenced  the  silversmith's  trade.  He  was  long  esteemed  in 
Philadelphia  one  of  the  best  workmen  at  hollow  work;  and 
there  are  still  pieces  of  his  work  in  much  esteem.  He  made  a 
tumbler  in  silver  when  he  was  94  years  of  age. 

Through  the  course  of  a  long  and  hazardous  life  in  various 

climes,  he  was  always  plain  and  temperate  in  his  eating  and 

drinking,  and  particularly  avoided  spirituous  liquors  except  in  one 

instance,  while  he  was  serving  as  lieutenant  of  a  privateer  in 

37  2B 


290  Longevity. 

Queen  Anne's  war.  That  occasion  gave  him  a  lasting  lesson  of 
future  restraint ;  for  having  made  a  descent  on  the  Spanish  main 
and  pillaged  a  village,  while  they  had  all  given  themselves  to 
mirth  and  revelry,  they  were  intercepted  in  their  return  to  their 
boats,  and  all  killed  save  himself  and  one  other,  who  were 
made  prisoners  and  held  in  long  confinement. 

His  first  wife  was  Catharine  Cheeseman,  of  New  York,  by 
Avhom  he  had  eight  children,  25  grandchildren,  23  great  grand- 
children, and  great  great  grandchildren. 

At  the  age  of  51  he  married  his  second  wife  in  Philadelphia, 
Ann  Vanlear,  of  19  years  of  age,  by  whom  he  had  17  children, 
41  grandchildren,  and  15  great  grandchildren — forming  in  all  a 
grand  total  of  132  descendants,  of  whom  45  were  then  dead. 
Those  who  survived  were  generally  dwelling  in  Philadelphia. 
His  last  wife  died  in  1788,  at  the  age  of  72.  Mr.  Hutton  deemed 
himself  in  the  prime  of  his  life  when  60  years  of  age.  He  never 
had  a  headache. 

He  was  always  fond  of  fishing  and  fowling,  and  till  his  81st 
year  used  to  carry  a  heavy  English  musket  in  his  hunting  ex- 
cursions. He  was  ever  a  quiet,  temperate,  and  hard-working 
man,  and  even  in  the  year  of  his  death,  was  quite  cheerful  and 
good  humoured.  He  could  then  see,  hear,  and  walk  about — had 
a  good  appetite,  and  no  complaints  whatever,  except  from  the 
mere  debility  of  old  age.  When  shall  "we  behold  his  like  again!" 

In  his  early  life  he  was  on  two  scouts  against  the  Indians ;  he 
used  to  tell,  that  in  one  of  these  excursions  they  went  out  in  the 
night,  that  they  took  a  squaw  prisoner,  who  led  them  to  where 
the  Indians  lay,  of  whom  they  killed  the  most,  before  they  could 
get  to  their  arras.  The  circumstance  induced  the  Indians  to 
come  in  and  make  their  peace. 

He  knew  the  noted  pirate.  Teach,  called  Blackbeard  ;  he  saw 
him  at  Barbadoes  after  he  had  come  in  under  the  Act  of  Oblivion 
to  him  and  other  pirates.  This  was  a  short  time  before  that 
pirate  made  his  last  cruise  and  was  killed  in  Carolina. 

The  father  of  Hutton  was  John  Hutton,  of  Bermuda  in  Scot- 
land, where  many  of  the  family  reside.  His  grandfather  by  his 
mother's  side,  was  Arthur  Strange  ways,  Avho  died  at  Boston,  at 
the  age  of  101  years,  while  sitting  in  his  chair. 

J.  S.  Hutton  died  at  Philadelphia,  on  the  20th  of  December, 
1792,  in  the  109th  year  of  his  age.  His  long  life  and  numerous 
children,  made  him  a  patriarch  indeed  !  "  In  children's  lives  he 
feels  his  resurrection,  and  grows  immortal  in  his  children's  chil- 
dren !"  He  was  deemed  so  rare  an  instance  of  lusty  old  age, 
that  Mr.  C.  W.  Peale  was  induced  to  take  his  portrait  as  now 
seen  in  the  Museum,  as  he  appeared  in  the  last  year  of  his  life, 
and  from  which  the  present  portrait  is  taken.  He  was  borne  to 
his  grave  by  his  fellow  craftsmen — all  silversmiths. 

Died  at  New  York,  September  1834,  of  cholera,  a  poor  coloured 


Longevity.  291 

woman  aged  109  years — she  lived  and  died  in  Orange  street. 
There  was  at  the  same  time,  a  colom'ed  man  aged  104  years,  liv- 
ing in  Washington  street. 

In  July  1835,  Mr.  Joseph  R.  Hughs,  living  at  Otsego,  aged 
100  years,  travelled  from  there  to  Boston,  by  the  stages  and 
steamboats,  to  be  present  at  the  celebration  of  Independence  ;  he 
was  born  at  Boston  in  1735,  and  appeared  in  health  and  spirits. 

In  June  1838,  died  John  Lusk,  in  Warren  county,  Tennessee, 
aged  104 ;  he  was  born  on  Staten  Island,  November  5, 1734 — had 
been  a  soldier  in  the  French  war,  and  was  at  the  death  of  Wolfe, 
and  in  the  American  revolution — had  never  been  sick — walked 
seven  miles  and  back,  when  he  was  past  100  years. 

In  the  4th  of  July  procession  of  1838,  at  Newark,  N.  J.,  Thomas 
Belton,  an  old  soldier  of  the  revolution,  was  seen  among  the 
walkers,  aged  104  years.  At  the  same  time  he  was  made  to  visit 
Mrs.  Gouge,  from  New  York  city,  then  aged  105  years,  and  much 
they  talked  cheerily  together. 

James  B.  Stafford,  formerly  a  merchant  of  New  York — once 
a  midshipman  in  the  Alliance  frigate,  died  at  Allentown,  N.  J. 
19th  of  August  1838,  aged  102  years. 

Capt.  Alexander  Coffin,  mayor  of  the  city  of  Hudson,  died  11th 
of  January,  1839,  aged  99  years,  in  his  full  faculties. 

Asa  Cole,  an  old  soldier  of  the  revolution,  died  at  Livingston 
county,  on  2nd  of  April,  1839,  aged  100  years. 

Henry  LeForge,  a  native  of  New  York  state,  died  at  Hamden, 
Conn.,  the  15th  of  August,  1839,  aged  100  years. 

An  aged  coloured  woman,  113  years  of  age,  was  alive  at 
Gravesend,  L.  I.,  in  1840,  at  the  house  of  Mrs.  Maria  Still  well — 
was  in  health — still  milked  cows,  and  was  as  well  to  do  anything 
as  when  she  was  100  years  of  age. 

The  Rev.  Isaac  Levis,  D.  D.,  a  native  of  Long  Island,  died  at 
Greenwich,  Conn.,  1840,  in  the  95th  year  of  his  age.  He  was 
converted  at  Yale  College,  under  the  preaching  of  Whitfield. 

The  Rev.  Benjamin  Harvey,  near  Utica,  preaches  every  Sab- 
bath, after  he  is  upwards  of  100  years  of  age,  and  in  1844,  when 
he  was  109  years  of  age,  sends  me  a  full  letter,  describing  him- 
self and  the  incidents  of  his  long  life. 

The  oldest  among  the  old  of  New  York,  was  Anthony  Vanpelt, 
who  died  there  in  1830,  at  the  great  age  of  130  years. 


200  Changes  of  Prices. 


CHANGES  OF  PEICES, 

"  For  the  money  cheap — and  quite  a  heap." 

It  is  curious  to  observe  the  changes  which  have  occurred  in  the 
course  of  years,  both  in  the  supply  of  common  articles  sold  in  the 
markets,  and  in  some  cases,  the  great  augmentation  of  prices : — 
for  instance,  Mr.  Brower,  who  has  been  quite  a  chronicle  to  me 
in  many  things,  has  told  me  such  facts  as  the  following,  viz  : — he 
remembered  well  when  abundance  of  the  largest  "^  Blue  Point" 
oysters  could  be  bought,  opened  to  your  hand,  for  2s.  a  hundred , 
such  as  would  now  bring  from  three  to  four  dollars.  Best  sea 
bass  were  but  2d.  a  lb.,  now  at  Qd.  Sheep-head  sold  at  ^d.  to  1^. 
3d.  a-piece,  and  will  now  bring  two  dollars.  Rock  fish  were 
plenty  at  Is^.  a-piece  for  good  ones.  Shad  were  but  3d.  a-piece. 
They  did  not  then  practice  the  planting  of  oysters.  Lobsters  then 
were  not  brought  to  the  market. 

Mr.  Jacob  Tabelee,  who  is  as  old  as  eighty-seven,  and  of  course 
saw  earlier  times  than  the  other,  has  told  me  sheep-head  used  to 
be  sold  at  Qd.,  and  the  best  oysters  at  only  l5.  a  hundred  ;  in  fact 
they  did  not  stop  to  count  them,  but  gave  them  in  that  proportion 
and  rate  by  the  bushel.  Rock  fish  were  sold  at  3d.  a  pound. 
Butter  was  at  8  to  Qd.  Beef  by  the  quarter,  in  the  winter,  was  at 
3d.  a  pound,  and  by  the  piece  at  4d.  Fowls  were  about  9d.  a- 
piece.  Wild  fowl  were  in  great  abundance.  He  has  bought 
twenty  pigeons  in  their  season  for  1^.;  a  goose  was  2^.  Oak  wood 
was  abundant  at  2s.  the  load. 

In  1763  the  market  price  of  provisions  was  established  by  laiVi 
and  published  in  the  gazette ;  wondrous  cheap  they  were, — viz  ; 
a  cock  turkey,  4.s. ;  a  hen  turkey  2^.  Qd. ;  a  duck  1^. ;  a  quail 
lhd.\  a  heath  hen,  \s.  3d. ;  a  teal,  Qd. ;  a  wild  goose,  2s. ;  a  brandt, 
Is.  3d.',  snipe.  Id. ;  butter,  9d. ;  sea  bass,  2d. ;  oysters,  2^.  per 
bushel ;  sheep-head  and  sea  bass,  three  coppers  per  pound  ;  lob- 
sters, Qd.  per  pound ;  milk,  per  quart,  four  coppers ;  clams,  9d. 
per  hundred ;  cheese,  Aid. 

Those  celebrated  "  Blue  Points,"  were  destro^^ed  by  an  intend- 
ed kindness.  A  law  was  passed  to  exempt  them  from  continual 
use,  and  by  not  being  continually  fished  up  thus  got  imbedded  in 
mud  and  wholly  died  out ! 


Superstitions,  293 


SUPERSTITIONS. 

"Stories  of  spectres  dire  disturb'd  the  soul." 

The  aged  men  have  told  me  that  fortune-tellers  and  conjurors 
had  a  name  and  an  occupation  among  the  credulous ;  Mr.  Brower 
said  he  remembered  some  himself.  Blackbeard's  and  Kidd's 
money,  as  pirates,  was  a  talk  understood  by  all.  He  knew  of 
much  digging  for  it,  with  spells  and  incantations,  at  Corlear's 
Hook,  leaving  there  several  pits  of  up-turned  ground.  Dreams 
and  impressions  were  fruitful  causes  of  stimulating  some  to  thus 
"  try  their  fortune"  or  "  their  luck." 

There  was  a  strange  story,  the  facts  may  yet  be  recollected  by 
some,  of  "  the  haunted  house,"  somewhere  out  of  town ;  I  have 
understood  it  was  Delancey's. 

But  a  better  ascertained  case  is  that  of  "the  screeching  woman;" 
she  was  a  very  tall  figure  of  masculine  dimensions,  who  used  to 
appear  in  flowing  mantle  of  pure  white  at  midnight,  and  stroll 
down  Maiden  lane.  She  excited  great  consternation  among  many. 
A  Mr.  Kimball,  an  honest  praying  man,  thought  he  had  no  occa- 
sion to  fear,  and  as  he  had  to  pass  that  way  home  one  night,  he 
concluded  he  would  go  forward  as  fearless  as  he  could ;  he  saw 
nothing  in  his  walk  before  him,  but  hearing  steps  fast  approach- 
ing him  behind,  he  felt  the  force  of  terror  before  he  turned  to 
look  ;  but  when  he  looked  he  saw  what  put  all  his  resolutions  to 
flight — a  tremendous  white  spectre !  It  was  too  much  ;  he  ran  or 
flew  with  all  his  might,  till  he  reached  his  own  house  by  Peck's 
slip  and  Pearl  street,  and  then,  not  to  lose  time,  he  burst  open  his 
door  and  fell  down  for  a  time  as  dead.  He  however  survived, 
and  always  deemed  it  something  preternatural.  The  case  stood 
thus  : — When  one  Capt.  Willet  Taylor  of  the  British  navy  coveted 
to  make  some  trial  of  his  courage  in  the  matter,  he  also  paced 
Maiden  lane  alone  at  midnight,  wrapped  Hke  Hamlet  in  his  "  inky 
cloak,"  with  oaken  staff"  beneath.  I3y  and  by  he  heard  the  sprite 
full-tilt  behind  him  intending  to  pass  him,  but  being  prepared,  he 
dealt  out  such  a  passing  blow  as  made  "  the  bones  and  nerves  to 
feel,"  and  thus  exposed  a  crafty  man  bent  on  fun  and  mischief. 

In  1680,  there  was  a  great  stir  about  the  great  Comet  star, 
which  caused  the  commissioners  at  Albany  to  write  to  Gov. 
Brockholst,  to  appoint  days  of  fasting,  prayer  and  humiliation, 
that  God  might  withdraw  such  a  threatening  judgment. 


2  B  2 


SM  Miscellaneous  Facts. 


MISCELLANEOUS  FACTS. 

«« All  pay  contribution  to  the  store  he  gleans." 

The  Indians,  in  the  year  1746,  came  to  the  city  of  New  York 
in  a  great  body,  say  several  hundreds,  to  hold  a  conference  or 
treaty  with  the  governor.  Their  appearance  was  very  imposing ; 
and  being  the  last  time  they  ever  appeared  there  for  such  purposes, 
having  afterwards  usually  met  the  governor  at  Albany,  they 
made  a  very  strong  impression  on  the  beholders.  David  Grim, 
then  young,  who  saw  them,  has  left  some  MS.  memoranda  re- 
specting them,  which  I  saw,  to  this  effect : — They  were  Oneidas 
and  Mohawks ;  they  came  from  Albany,  crowding  the  North 
river  with  their  canoes ;  a  great  sight  so  near  New  York  ;  bring- 
ing with  them  their  squaws  and  pappooses  (children);  they  encamp- 
ed on  the  site  now  Hudson's  Square,  before  St.  John's  church, 
then  a  low  sand  beach ;  from  thence  they  marched  in  solemn 
train,  single  file,  down  Broadway  to  Fort  George,  then  the  resi- 
dence of  the  British  governor,  George  Clinton.  As  they  marched, 
they  displayed  numerous  scalps,  lifted  on  Poles  by  way  of  flags 
or  trophies,  taken  from  their  French  and  Indian  enemies.  What 
a  spectacle  in  a  city  ! 

In  return,  the  governor  and  officers  of  the  colonial  government, 
with  many  citizens,  made  out  a  long  procession  to  the  Indian 
camp,  and  presented  them  there  the  usual  presents. 

The  Indians  were  remembered  by  Mr.  Bogert's  grandmother 
to  be  often  encamped  at  "  Cow-foot  Hill,"  a  continuation  of  Pearl 
street ;  there  they  made  and  sold  baskets. 

An  Indian  remains,  such  as  his  bones  and  some  ornaments, 
were  lately  found  in  digging  at  the  corner  of  Wall  and  Broad 
streets.  Half-Indian  Jack  died  at  Hersimus,  N.  J.,  on  the  2d  Feb- 
ruary, 1831,  at  the  extreme  age  of  102  years.  In  the  revolu- 
tionary war  he  acted  as  a  spy  for  the  British. 

The  palisades  and  block  houses  erected  in  1745,  were  well 
remembered  by  Mr.  David  Grim.  There  was  then  much  appre- 
hension from  the  French  and  Indians ;  ^68,000  was  voted  to  defray 
the  cost.  Mr.  Grim  said  the  palisades  began  at  the  house  now 
57  Cherry  street,  then  the  last  house  out  on  the  East  river  towards 
Kip's  Bay ;  thence  they  extended  direct  to  Windmill  Hill,  [that 
is,  near  the  present  Chatham  theatre,]  and  thence  in  the  rear  of 
the  poor  house  to  Dominie's  Hook  at  the  North  river. 

The  palisades  were  made  9f  cedar  logs,  of  fourteen  feet  long 
and  ten  inches  in  diameter :  were  placed  in  a  trench  three  feet 
deep,  with  loop-holes  all  along  for  musketry  ;  having  also  a  breast- 
work of  four  feet  high  and  four  feet  wide.   There  were  also  three 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  295 

block  houses  of  about  thirty  feet  square  and  ten  feet  high  ;  these 
had  in  each  six  port-holes  for  cannon  ;  were  constructed  of  logs 
df  eighteen  inches  thick,  and  at  equi-distances  between  the  three 
gates  of  the  city,  they  being  placed  on  each  road  of  the  three 
entrances  or  outlets  ;  one  was  in  Pearl  street,  nearly  in  front  of 
Banker  street ;  the  other  in  rear  of  the  poor  house  ;  and  the  third 
lay  between  Church  and  Chapel  streets. 

This  general  description  of  the  line  of  defence  was  confirmed 
to  me  by  old  Mr.  Tabelee,  aged  eighty-seven.  He  described  one 
gate  as  across  Chatham  street,  close  to  Kate-Mutz's  garden,  on 
Windmill  Hill.  The  block  house  on  the  North  river,  he  supposed 
stood  about  the  end  of  Reed  street. 

The  great  fires  of '76  and  '78,  are  still  remembered  with  lively 
sensibility  by  the  old  inhabitants.  They  occurred  while  the  Bri- 
tish held  possession  of  the  city,  and  excited  a  fear  at  the  time 
that  the  "  American  Rebels"  had  purposed  to  oust  them,  by  their 
own  sacrifices,  like  another  Moscow.  It  is,  however,  believed  to 
have  occurred  solely  from  accident.  Mr.  Brower  thought  he  was 
well  informed  by  a  Mr.  Robins,  then  on  the  spot,  that  it  occurred 
from  the  shavings  in  a  board-yard  on  Whitehall  slip ;  but  Mr. 
David  Grim,  in  his  MS.  notes,  with  his  daughter,  is  very  minute 
to  this  effect,  saying  : — The  fire  began  on  the  21st  of  September, 
1 776,  in  a  small  wooden  house  on  the  wharf,  near  the  Whitehall 
slip,  then  occupied  by  women  of  ill  fame.  It  began  late  at  night, 
and  at  a  time  when  but  few  of  the  inhabitants  were  left  in  the 
city,  by  reason  of  the  presence  of  the  enemy.  The  raging  ele- 
ment was  terrific  and  sublime,  it  burned  up  Broadway  on  both 
sides  until  it  was  arrested  on  the  eastern  side  by  Mr.  Harrison's 
brick  house;  but  it  continued  to  rage  and  destroy  all  along  the 
western  side  to  St.  Paul's  church  ;  thence  it  inclined  towards  the 
North  river,  (the  wind  having  changed  to  south-east)  until  it  run 
out  at  the  water  edge  a  little  beyond  the  Bear  Market,  say  at  the 
present  Barclay  street. 


Trinity  church,  though  standing  alone,  was  fired  by  the  flakes 


2^6  Miscellaneous  Fads. 

of  fire  which  fell  on  its  steep  roof,  then  so  steep  that  none  could 
stand  upon  it  to  put  out  the  falling  embers.  But  ^t  Paul's  church, 
equally  exposed,  was  saved,  by  allowing  citizens  to  stand  on  its 
flatter  roof  and  wet  it  as  occasion  required. 

In  this  awful  conflagration  four  hundred  and  ninety-three  houses 
were  consumed  ;  generally  in  that  day  they  were  inferior  houses 
to  the  present,  and  many  of  them  were  of  wood. 

Several  of  the  inhabitants  were  restrained  from  going  out  to 
assist  at  night  from  a  fear  they  might  be  arrested  as  suspicious 
persons.  In  fact,  several  decent  citizens  were  sent  to  the  Provost 
Guard  for  examination,  and  some  had  to  stay  there  two  or  three 
days,  until  their  loyalty  could  be  made  out.  In  one  case,  even  a 
good  loyalist  and  a  decent  man,  sometimes  too  much  inclined 
"  to  taste  a  drop  too  much,"  (a  Mr.  White)  was  by  misapprehen- 
sion of  his  character,  and  in  the  excitement  of  the  moment,  hung 
up  on  a  sign  post,  at  the  corner  of  Cherry  and  Roosevelt  streets. 
Mr.  N.  Stuyvesant  told  me  he  saw  a  man  hanging  on  his  own  sign 
post,  probably  the  same  person  before  referred  to  by  Mr.  Grim. 

Mr.  Grim  has  given  to  the  Historical  Society  a  topographical 
map  showing  the  whole  line  of  conflagration. 

The  next  fire,  of  August,  1778,  occurred  on  Cruger's  wharf, 
and  burnt  about  fifty  houses.  On  that  occasion  the  military 
took  the  exclusive  management,  not  suffering  the  citizen-firemen 
to  control  the  manner  of  its  extinguishment.  It  was  afterwards 
ordered  by  the  commander  in  chief  that  the  military  should  help, 
but  not  order,  at  the  suppression  of  fires. 

The  Slips,  so  called,  were  originally  openings  to  the  river,  into 
which  they  drove  their  carts  to  take  out  cord  wood  from  ves- 
sels. The  cause  of  their  several  names  has  been  preserved  by 
Mr.  D.  Grim. 

Whitehall  slip,  it  has  been  said,  took  its  name  from  Col.  Moore's 
large  white  house,  or  hall ;  it  adjoined  the  slip,  and  was  called 
*^  Whitehall."  But  much  more  probably  it  was  named  after 
Whitehall,  London. 

Coenties  slip,  it  has  been  said,  took  its  name  from  the  combina- 
tion of  two  names—  say  of  Coenract  and  Jane  Ten  Eycke — called 
familiarly  Coen  and  Anties.  This  may  have  been  the  popular 
story,  but  Countess  slip  is  more  probable. 

The  Old  slip  was  so  called,  because  it  was  the  first  or  oldest  in 
the  city. 

Burling's  slip  was  so  called  after  a  respectable  family  of  that 
name,  living  once  at  the  corner  of  Smith's  Vly  (now  Pearl  street) 
and  Golden  Hill. 

Beekman's  slip,  after  a  family  once  living  there. 

There  was  only  owe  slip  on  the  North  river  side,  which  was 
at  the  foot  of  Oswego  street,  now  called  Liberty  street. 

Corlear's  Hook,  which  means  a  point,  was  originally  called 
Nechtant  by  the  Indians,  and  was  doubtless  from  its  locality  a 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  297 

favourite  spot  Avith  them.  There  Van  Corlear,  who  was  trum- 
peter at  the  fort  under  Van  Twiller,  had  laid  out  his  Uttle  farm, 
which  he  sold  in  1752  to  WilUam  Beekman,  for  ^750. 

The  Negro  Plot  of  1741  j  was  a  circumstance  of  great  terror  and 
excitement  in  its  day ;  aged  persons  have  still  very  lively  tradi- 
tionary recollections  of  it.  One  old  man  showed  me  the  corner 
house  in  Broad  street,  near  the  river  then,  where  the  chief  plotters 
conspired.  Old  Mr.  Tabelee  says,  new  alarms  were  frequent 
after  the  above  was  subdued.  For  a  long  time  in  his  youth  citi- 
zens watched  every  night,  and  most  people  went  abroad  with 
lanterns. 

Mr.  David  Grim,  in  his  MS.  notices,  says,  he  retained  a  per- 
fect idea  of  the  thing  as  it  was.  He  saw  the  negroes  chained  to 
a  stake  and  burned  to  death.  The  place  was  in  a  valley,  between 
Windmill  Hill,  (Chatham  theatre,)  and  Pot-Baker's  Hill,  (now 
Augusta  street,  about  its  centre,)  and  in  midway  of  Pearl  and 
Barclay  streets.  At  the  same  place  they  contiimed  their  execu- 
tions for  many  years  afterwards. 

■  John  Hustan,  a  white  man,  was  one  of  the  principals,  and  was 
hung  in  chains  on  a  gibbet,  at  the  south-east  point  of  H.  Rutger's 
farm  on  the  East  river,  not  ten  yards  from  the  present  south-east 
corner  of  Cherry  and  Catharine  streets.  Since  then  the  crowd  of 
population  there  has  far  driven  off  his  "  affrighted  ghost,"  if 
indeed  it  ever  kept  its  vigils  there. 

Cassar,  a  black  man,  a  principal  of  the  negroes,  was  also  hung 
in  chains  on  a  gibbet,  at  the  south-east  corner  of  the  old  powder 
house  in  Magazine  street.  Many  of  those  negroes  were  burnt 
and  hung,  and  a  great  number  of  others  were  transported  to  other 
countries. 

We  must  conceive,  that  on  so  dreadful  a  fear,  as  a  general 
massacre,  (for  guns  were  fired,  and  "many  run  to  and  fro,")  the 
whole  scenes  of  arrest,  trial,  execution,  and  criminals  long  hung 
in  chains,  must  have  kept  up  a  continual  feverish  excitement, 
disturbing  even  the  very  dreams  when  sleeping.  Thank  God, 
better  times  have  succeeded,  and  better  views  to  fellow  men. 

"  I  would  not  have  a  slave  to  tremble  when  I"  wake, 
For  all  the  price  of  sinews  bought  and  sold !" 

Homan  Catholics,  and  the  cry  of  "  church  and  state  in  danger," 
was  often  witnessed  on  election  and  other  occasions  in  New  York ; 
also,  "  high  and  low  church"  were  resounded.  "  No  Bishop" 
could  be  seen,  in  capitals,  on  fences,  &c.  A  man  did  not  dare  to 
avow  himself  a  Catholic,  it  was  odious ;  a  chapel  then  would 
have  been  pulled  down.  It  used  to  be  said,  "  John  Leary  goes 
once  a  year  to  Philadelphia  to  get  absolution."  How  different 
now  ! 

Hallam's  company  of  players,  the  first  on  record,  played  at 
New  York  in  1754. 

38 


298  Miscellaneous  Fads. 

William  Bradford,  fifty  years  government  printer  at  New 
York,  died  at  the  age  of  ninety-four,  in  the  year  1752 ;  he  had 
been  a  printer  a  few  years  at  Philadelphia  in  the  time  of  the 
primitive  settlement. 

In  1765  two  women,  named  Fuller  and  Knight,  were  placed 
one  hour  in  the  pillory  for  keeping  bawdy-houses.  If  this  were 
again  enforced,  would  not  much  of  the  gaudy  livery  of  bome  be 
set  down  ? 

A  gazette  of  1722  hints  at  the  declining  whalery  along  Long 
Island,  saying,  "  There  are  but  four  whales  killed  on  Long  Island, 
and  little  oil  is  expected  from  thence." 

But  they  have,  soon  after,  a  generous  recompense  ;  for  in  1724 
it  is  announced  that  at  Point  Judith,  in  ^pond  there,  they  took 
700,000  bass,  loading  therewith  fifty  carts,  1000  horses,  and  sun- 
dry boats. 

In  the  old  Potters-field  there  was  formerly  a  beautiful  epitaph 
on  a  patriot  stranger  from  England,  a  Mr.  Taylor,  who  came  to 
join  our  fortunes,  to  wit : — 

Far  from  his  kindred  friends  and  native  skies, 
Here  mouldering  in  the  dust,  poor  Taylor  lies ; 
Firm  was  his  mind,  and  fraught  with  various  lore, 
And  his  warm  heart  was  never  cold  before. 
He  lov'd  his  country,  and  that  spot  of  earth 
Which  gave  a  Milton,  Hampden,  Bradshaw  birth ; 
But  when  that  country — dead  to  all  but  gain, 
Bow'd  her  base  neck  and  hugg'd  the  oppressor's  chain, 
Lothing  the  abject  scene,  he  droop'd  and  sigh'd — 
Cross'd  the  wild  waves,  and  here  untimely  died. 

Doctors'  Riot. — About  the  year  1787,  the^re  was  much  excite- 
ment in  the  city  of  New  York  against  the  whole  fraternity  of 
doctors,  called  "the  Doctors'  Riot ;"  it  was  caused  by  the  people's 
lively  ofience  at  some  cases  of  bodies  procured  for  dissection.  The 
mob  gathered  to  the  cry  of  "  down  with  the  Doctors,"  and  so 
pushed  to  the  houses  of  some  of  the  leading  practitioners :  their 
friends  got  before  them,  and  precipitate  retreat  ensued.  In  the 
sequel  the  most  obnoxious  sought  their  refuge  in  the  prison,, 
where  the  police  being  quelled,  there  were  some  violent  assaults. 
Their  friends  and  the  friends  of  the  peace,  ranged  on  the  prison 
side,  made  some  defence  ;  Col.  Hamilton  stood  forward  as  cham- 
pion, and  John  Jay  was  considerably  wounded  in  the  head  from 
a  stone  thrown  from  the  mob ;  it  laid  him  up  some  time. 

A  singular  fact  occurred  a  few  years  ago,  on  the  occasion  of 
the  explosion  of  Mr.  Sand's  powder  magazine  at  Brooklyn. 
An  aged  citizen,  then  at  the  Bull's  Head  Inn  at  the  Bowery, 
wearing  a  broad  brimmed  hat,  perceived  something  like  gun- 
powder showering  upon  it ;  the  experiment  was  made  on  what 
he  gathered  thereon,  and  it  ignited !  This  is  accounted  for  as 
coming  from  the  explosion,  because  the  wind  set  strong  in  that 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  299 

direction,  and  it  is  ascertained  by  firing  a  fusee  over  snow,  that 
if  it  be  over-charged,  the  excess  of  grains  will  be  found  resting 
upon  the  snow. 

Yellow  Fever.  This  is  to  be  regarded  as  first  occurring  with 
any  notable  malignity  and  fatality,  in  1791.  It  had  indeed 
occurred,  once  before,  in  about  40  years  preceding — say  in  1743. 

In  1798,  the  Yellow  Fever  visited  the  city  with  peculiar  severity, 
beginning  near  Coenties  slip.  At  first  its  influence  was  regarded 
as  the  action  of  common  cold :  but  in  time,  other  views  were 
entertained.  About  two  thousand  persons  became  its  victims ; 
and  one  third  of  the  inhabitants  fled  from  the  city. 

In  1803,  was  another  recurrence  of  Yellow  Fever,  beginning 
at  the  Coffee-house  slip,  and  quickly  after  in  other  parts  of  the 
city ;  causing  in  its  progress  through  the  season,  the  deaths  of 
five  hundred  persons  in  the  city.  The  alarm  was  great,  and 
caused  the  removal  of  the  mass  of  the  inhabitants. 

In  1805^,  it  again  appeared,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  city, 
principally  below  Burling's  slip.  The  deaths  in  the  city  were 
about  two  hundred,  showing  it  was  not  of  such  fearful  character, 
as  formerly. 

In  1822,  it  appeared  on  the  North  river  side,  not  however  of 
extensive  mortality.  And  being  much  restricted  to  a  locality  in 
and  about  Rector  street;  the  inhabitants  were  generally  contented 
to  open  ofiices  and  stores  and  do  their  business  in  Greenwich 
village.. 

The  Cholera  of  1832,  caused  the  deaths  of  three  thousand  five 
hundred  of  the  inhabitants,  from  July  to  October.  A  mortality 
of  more  fearful  consequence,  than  even  Yellow  Fever. 

Papacy.  In  the  year  1700,  the  Assembly  passed  a  law,  to 
hang  every  popish  priest  who  should  come  voluntarily  into  the 
province.  The  historian  who  related  this  fact  fifty  years  after- 
wards, observed  that  the  law  was  then  in  full  force,  and  added, 
"  as  it  ever  ought  to  ^e." 

Dress  of  gentlemen.  A  witness  describes  what  he  saw  in 
1782.  John  Hancock  wore  a  blue  damask  gown  (in  June),  w^hite 
satin  embroidered  vest,  black  satin  small  clothes,  white  silk  stock- 
ings, and  red  morocco  slippers — his  head  was  surmounted  with 
a  red  velvet  cap — when  at  Philadelphia  in  congress,  with  John 
Adams,  he  wore  a  suit  of  scarlet.  James  Bowdoin,  the  governor 
of  Massachusetts,  in  1785,  of  a  review  day  at  Cambridge,  wore 
a  grey  wig,  cocked  hat,  ivhite  broad-cloth  coat  and  vest,  red  small 
clothes,  and  black  silk  stockings.  Thomas  Jefferson  wore  the 
white  coat  and  red  breeches,  also. 

New  York  city  is  to  be  the  city  of  13,000  acres,  this  is  just  ascer- 
tained to  be  the  whole  measurement  of  the  Island.  Its  former 
bounds  diS  an  Island,  so  at  first  named,  is  now  all  effaced  by  fill- 
ing up.  The  Kolch  and  Lispenard's  swamp,  was  once  the  Island 
bounds,  and  it  is  calculated  that  about  1000  acres  more  will  be 


300  Miscellaneous  Facts. 

redeemed  from  the  water  lots  on  the  two  rivers.  It  is  calculated 
that  this  area  of  14,000  acres,  will  give  accommodation  to  one 
and  a  half  million  of  inhabitants,  and  this  population,  great  as  it 
seems,  it  is  expected  by  some  now,  may  be  attained  in  the  period 
of  a  century.  The  area  of  even  one  thousand  acres  in  a  city  plot, 
is  of  very  vague  conception  in  the  mind ;  it  is,  however,  the  pre- 
sent area,  in  the  triangle  formed  by  running  Canal  street  from 
river  to  river,  and  extending  from  it  to  the  Battery  point.  What 
a  city,  even  in  idea  only,  must  be  a  city  fourteen  times  as  large 
as  that  space  !  The  present  actual  bounds  of  the  city,  comprise 
4500  acres,  equal  to  one  third  of  the  whole  area ;  and  the  present 
population  is  270,000,  of  whom  27,500  are  foreigners  not  natu- 
ralized. 

First  voyage  to  China.  "This  voyage  was  effected  in  the 
year  1785,  in  an  Albany  sloop,  commanded  by  Captain  Dean," 
who  is  now  alive  (in  1836,)  at  West  Chester,  N.  Y.  The  ship 
Empress,  of  China,  Captain  Green,  went  to  China  in  1784,  and 
returned  in  1785,  [first  voyage].  I  have  a  plate  of  the  China, 
brought  by  him — the  last  article  of  the  whole  set. 

General  Washington,  in  the  first  year  of  his  Presidency  under 
the  new  constitution,  1789,  resided  in  the  Franklin  House,  at  the 
head  of  Cherry  street.  On  new-year's  day,  1790,  he  was  waited 
upon  by  the  prhicipal  gentlemen  of  the  city.  The  day  was  un- 
commonly mild  and  pleasant.  After  being  severally  introduced 
and  paying  the  usual  compliments  of  the  season,  the  citizens 
mutually  interchanged  their  kind  greetings  and  withdrew,  highly 
gratified  by  the  friendly  notice  of  the  President,  to  most  of  whom 
he  was  personally  a  stranger.  In  the  evening  Mrs.  Washington 
held  her  levee.  It  was  about  full  moon,  and  the  air  was  so  bland 
and  serene,  that  the  ladies  attended  in  their  light  summer  shades. 
Introduced  by  the  aids  and  gentlemen  in  waiting,  after  being 
seated,  tea,  coffee,  plain  and  plum-cake,  were  handed  round.  Fa- 
miliar and  friendly  conversation  ensued,  and  kind  inquiries,  on 
the  part  of  Mrs.  Washington,  after  the  families  of  the  exiles,  with 
whom  she  had  been  acquainted  during  the  revolutionary  war. 
To  a  lady,  standing  at  the  side  of  the  President,  near  to  Mrs  Wash- 
ington, she  remarked,  "  of  all  the  incidents  of  the  day  none  has  so 
pleased  the  general,"  (by  which  title  she  alwa^^s  designated  him.) 
"  as  the  friendly  greetings  of  the  gentlemen  who  visited  him  at 
noon."  To  the  inquiry  of  the  President,  whether  it  was  casual 
or  customary,  he  was  answered  that  it  was  an  annual  custom, 
derived  from  our  Dutch  forefathers,  which  had  always  been  com- 
memorated. After  a  short  pause,  he  observed — "  The  highly 
favoured  situation  of  New  York,  will,  in  process  of  years,  attract 
emigrants,  who  will  gradually  change  its  ancient  customs  and 
manners  ;  but  let  whatever  changes  take  place,  never  forget  the 
cordial,  cheerful  observance  of  new-year's  day." 

About  a  year  since  a  friend  of  ours  visiting  the  metropolis, 


Portrait  President  Washington,  p,  aOtTand  334* '  '    '  *    '  "* 


Miscellaneous  Fads.  301 

spent  an  hour  with  Mr.  Custis  at  his  residence,  and  heard  from 
him  a  graphic  and  eloquent  description  of  the  final  departure  of 
Washington  from  New  York.  The  scene  has  often  been  narrated, 
but  it  bears  a  peculiar  interest,  when  coming  from  the  lips  of  an 
eye  witness.  Our  friend  has  kindly  furnished  us  with  a  descrip- 
tion taken  at  the  time ;  and  although  probably  deficient  in  the 
vivid  eloquence  of  the  narrator,  it  is  still  worthy  of  preservation. 
The  account  which  Mr.  Custis  gives  of  the  appearance  and  extent 
of  New  York  at  the  time,  is  highly  curious  and  interesting : 

"  We  then  staid  at  McCombs  House  near  the  Battery,"  said 
Mr.  Custis,  "  which  is  now  called  Bunker's,  and  that  was  nearly 
the  extent  of  the  compact  part  of  the  city.  St.  Paul's  church 
was  quite  out  of  town,  and  I  used  to  play  on  a  fine  green  common, 
where  the  Park  theatre  now  stands.  Instead  of  paved  streets 
in  that  vicinity,  there  were  fenced  fields,  in  which  I  could  sport 
as  freely  as  if  on  my  own  estate.  I  could  now  point  to  the  spot 
where  Washington  embarked,  and  bade  his  final  adieu  to  his 
army  and  the  citizens  of  New  York,  although  I  am  sure  it  must 
be  entirely  changed  in  appearance  during  the  time  which  has 
since  then  elapsed. — It  was  a  point  at  Whitehall,  just  oif  the  Bat- 
tery, and  instead  of  the  wharf  now  bound  with  stately  ships,  the 
shore  was  then  naked  as  the  waves  which  murmured  on  its 
banks.  I  remember  the  morning  as  if  yesterday ;  it  was  a  clear, 
cool,  bracing  day  in  December,  and  as  the  General  left  the  house, 
he  took  my  hand,  and  I  thought  I  never  saw  him  look  so  sad.  We 
arrived  at  the  appointed  place  of  departure — I  see  the  spot  plainly 
before  me — the  crowd  was  immense,  the  army  being  drawn  up 
in  lines  which  faced  the  General  as  he  passed  them ;  the  eyes  of 
the  multitude  were  steadily  bent  upon  him,  but  not  a  whisper 
among  the  whole  was  audible.  When  Washington  arrived  at  the 
spot,  he  paused,  and  for  a  moment  surveyed  the  scene.  I  saw 
his  heart  was  too  full  for  utterance,  and  his  eyes  seemed  bursting 
with  suppressed  tears  ;  still,  he  calmly  looked  on  all  around  ;  but 
it  could  not  long  be  thus.  Nature  was  at  length  supreme — the 
General  hastily  approached  one  of  the  officers  who  was  standing 
with  several  of  the  staff"  near  him,  and  falling  on  his  neck,  gave 
way  to  his  feelings  in  a  flood  of  tears.  He  then  embraced  each 
of  his  officers  separately ;  with  an  almost  convulsive  grasp,  and 
as  he  thus  bade  his  long  loved  and  loving  companions  adieu,  the 
tears  seemed  each  moment  to  start  afresh.  Not  a  word  was  yet 
spoken,  the  sigh  or  sob  alone  broke  the  silence  of  the  solemn 
scene.  At  length,  when  the  last  officer  had  been  embraced,  the 
General  seemed  for  a  moment  to  gain  a  self-possession,  and  with 
a  firm  step  turned  towards  the  boat  in  waiting;  he  stepped  on 
board,  and  almost  sunk  upon  the  seat ;  it  was  but  for  an  instant, 
for  as  the  boat  shoved  off",  he  stood  upright,  and  quickly  raising 
his  hat  with  that  grace  and  dignity  which  seemed  peculiarly  to 
belong  to  him,  he  surveyed  once  more  his  officers,  his  army,  and 

2C 


302  Miscellaneous  Facts. 

his  friends,  and  after  pausing  a  moment,  he  murmured  with  an 
emphasis  I  can  never  forget,  so  full  of  mingled  sorrow  and  afflic- 
tion, so  deep  and  earnest,  so  soul-felt  in  its  accents,  the  single  word 
'  Farewell  !'  and  waving  his  hat,  the  fresh  gushing  tears  pre- 
vented his  further  action  or  utterance.  At  that  moment  a  shout, 
such  as  I  have  never  heard  before  nor  since — one  simultaneous 
shout  burst  from  the  shore,  and  so  loud,  and  deep,  and  full  was 
it,  that  it  drowned  the  echo  of  the  heavy  guns — the  large  28 
pounders,  which  at  the  same  moment  were  fired  from  a  short 
distance  above ;  a  dull  heavy  noise  was  all  I  could  distinguish  ; 
and  as  the  shout  of  the  multitude  was  wafted  over  the  parting 
waves,  and  the  cannon's  smoke  rose  upwards,  the  General  once 
more  waved  his  hand,  and  the  boat  shot  rapidly  from  the  shore. 
This  was  the  last  time  he  ever  saw  New  York." 

Having  thus  introduced  the  name  of  Washington,  it  occurs  to 
us  to  give  a  few  additional  notices  of  that  great  man,  extracted 
from  our  MS.  pages  of  memoranda  concerning  him,  because  they 
have  hitherto  induced  so  little  of  the  same  kind  of  notice  from 
others — to  wit : 

Sundry  circumstances  in  the  early  life  of  Washington,  while  a 
Colonel  in  the  western  wilderness,  have  not  been,  as  we  think, 
sufficiently  noticed  as  marking  him,  even  from  the  beginning,  as 
"  the  man  of  destiny" — as  one  providentially  preserved  for  the 
subsequent  salvation  of  his  country.  For  instance,  in  the  case  of 
his  exposure  of  person  in  the  battle  of  Braddock's  defeat.  His 
letter  to  his  mother  of  18th  July  1755,  says,  "the  Virginia  troops, 
to  which  I  belonged,  showed  a  great  deal  of  bravery  and  were 
nearly  all  killed.  I  luckily  escaped  without  a  wound,  though  I 
had  four  bullets  through  my  coat,  and  had  two  horses  shot  under 
me.  The  General's  two  aids  being  early  wounded,  I  was  the 
only  person  then  left  to  distribute  the  General's  orders."  At  the 
same  time  he  requests  to  inform  his  brother  John  that  "  he  has 
not  been  killed,  as  has  been  before  reported  in  a  circumstantial 
account."  He  adds — "  by  the  all-powerful  dispensations  of  Pro- 
vidence, I  have  been  protected  beyond  all  human  probability  or 
expectation,  while  death  was  levelling  my  companions  on  every 
side."  Such  remarkable  perils,  and  such  acknowledgments  of  a 
divine  protection  therein,  are  things  which  should  be  impressively 
considered,  as  we  imagine. 

Besides  the  foregoing,  it  came  to  pass,  afterwards,  that  when 
•Washington  was  out  in  Ohio,  in  1770,  to  explore  some  wild  lands 
near  the  Kenawha  river,  he  then  met  an  aged  Indian  chief,  who 
told  him  that  during  the  battle  in  Braddock's  field,  he  had  singled 
him  out  at  several  times,  to  bring  him  down  with  his  rifle,  and 
liad  ordered  his  young  warriors  to  do  the  same ;  but  none  of  the 
balls  took  effect.  He  was  then  convinced,  he  said,  that  the  young 
hero  was  under  some  special  guardianship  of  the  Great  Spirit,  and 
he  had  therefore  desisted  from  firing.     He  had  now  come  a  long 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  308h 

way  to  pay  his  personal  homage  to  so  peculiar  a  man,  as  one 
saved  by  heaven.  Surely,  if  the  "  poor  Indian"  could  thus  dis- 
cern the  protection  from  above,  much  more  readily  should  we, 
Avho  profess  to  miderstand  and  appreciate  the  interference  of  a 
God,  who  "  rules  in  the  affairs  of  men." 

In  the  year  1753,  Major  Washington,  returning  from  his  visit 
to  Fort  Le  Boeuf,  roughing  it  all  the  way  like  a  perfect  woods- 
man, urging  his  lonely  way  through  the  depths  of  the  forests,  in 
the  depth  of  the  stern  winter,  he  fell  into  a  fearful  dilemma,  which 
ordinarily  would  have  cost  the  life  of  any  other  individual.  He 
had  left  his  horses  and  heavy  baggage,  and  for  the  sake  of  greater 
dispatch,  had  undertaken  to  foot  his  way  with  his  friend,  Mr. 
Gist,  for  his  companion.  Washington  was  tied  up  in  his  watch 
coat,  with  his  better  clothes  off,  and  his  papers  and  provisions  tied 
in  a  pack  slung  to  his  back,  [think  of  that  once,  of  the  great  Gene- 
ral Washington,  President  of  the  United  States,  &c.]  and  thus 
they  urged  their  lonely  way  through  the  waste  of  v/ilderness, 
each  with  gun  in  hand,  and  momentarily  exposed  to  Indian  sur- 
prise. That  surprise  came  from  a  party  of  French  Indians  lying 
in  wait.  One  of  them  iSred  upon  them,  not  fifteen  steps  off,  but 
missed,  and  then  they  seized  him.  [Mark  it,  that  they  were  too 
humane  to  kill  an  enemy  in  possession  !]  At  night  they  let  him 
go — they  in  mean  time,  walking  all  night,  as  their  best  security 
for  getting  beyond  the  reach  of  the  party,  on  the  morrow.  This 
walking,  they  continued  all  next  day,  (having  no  rest,)  when 
they  reached  the  river,  two  miles  above  Shannopins,  which  they 
had  hoped  to  find  frozen,  from  the  keenness  of  the  cold  which 
they  had  thus  braved.  The  ice  there,  however,  was  driving  in 
vast  quantities,  and  they  had  no  way  to  pass  it,  but  on  a  raft, 
which  they,  themselves,  were  obliged  to  construct,  with  only  one 
poor  hatchet.  In  such  a  necessary,  and  hurried  work,  they  were 
diligently  employed  all  day, — exposed  to  cold  in  their  persons  ; 
and  with  continual  apprehensions  from  the  pursuing  Indians, 
probably  very  near  them.  On  such  an  occasion,  we  may  well 
imagine,  that  a  man  so  considerate  as  Washington,  may  have 
remembered  the  prayers,  which  he  had  been  taught  by  a  mother's 
piety  and  care,  in  his  youth.  Can  we  suppose  that  he  did  not 
ejaculate  something  from  the  heart,  for  Divine  support  and  pro- 
tection !  He  was  protected :  For  soon  after  they  had  embarked 
on  their  frail  log -float,  "  they  got  jammed  up  in  the  ice,  and  every 
minute  were  expecting  their  raft  to  sink,  and  themselves  to 
perish  !"  Just  at  their  extremity,  when  Washington  was  setting 
his  pole  to  save  his-  position,  he  was  jerked  out  into  ten  feet 
water  !  They  had  no  alternative,  but  Jo  make  their  way  to  an 
island,  leaving  their  raft  to  its  fate.  There,  they  had  to  pass  the 
whole  night,  still  without  sleep,  in  mid-winter  ! — their  clothes 
being  soaked  with  iced  water,  and  stiffly  frozen  ;  so  frozen  too, 
that  his  companion,  Mr.  Gist,  had  all  his  fingers,  and  some  of 


304  Miscellaneous  Facts. 

his  toes  frozen  !  Mark  the  providence  !  Washington,  though 
equally  or  more  exposed,  was  not  frozen,  and  the  very  severity 
of  the  freezing,  made  them  a  formidable  and  safe  bridge  of  ice, 
by  which  they  safely  passed  over  to  the  main  land,  on  the  next 
morning;  and  soon  after  reached  the  wigwam  of  Queen  Alla- 
quippa,  where  they  were  refreshed  and  comforted.  Surely,  as 
many  of  us  as  may  regard  Washington  as  bestowed  upon  us,  for 
great  national  purposes,  must  herein  see  and  confess  that  hand 
divine,  which  led  his  footsteps  in  his  youth,  and  sustained  and 
guided  him  in  future  years,  through  a  long,  and  perilous,  and 
eminent  life.  "What  nation  so  blest,  whose  God  is  the  Lord!'* 
We  know  of  nothing  in  the  whole  career  of  Washington,  which 
has  been  to  us  so  touching,  as  the  contemplation  of  these  earliest 
scenes  in  his  life.  Scenes  however,  which  have  been  least  noticed 
by  others,  possibly  because  he  had  not  then  attained  to  his  merited 
distinction.  We  cannot  think  of  his  rugged  and  severe  backwood 
struggles,  his  exertions  for  life  and  just  honour,  without  thinking 
how  little,  even  he,  could  then  have  foreseen  of  his  country's 
Independence,  and  himself  as  the  appointed  leader. 

We  are  very  naturally  led,  from  the  contemplation  of  the  pre- 
mises, to  consider  that  Washington,  though  not  professedly  a 
religious  character,  must  have  always  been  under  the  influence 
of  religious  principles.  His  appeals  to  Providence,  in  his  letters 
to  his  mother,  and  his  habitual  and  solemn  attention  to  public 
worship,  might  sufficiently  evince  this ;  but  as  we  possess  sundry 
direct  facts,  of  his  habitual  and  special  attentions  to  personal 
prayers  to  the  Almighty,  we  shall  perhaps  perform  a  grateful 
service  to  many  by  here  relating  them,  to  wit  : 

Gen.  Sullivan,  in  his  late  publication,  states,  that  it  was  con- 
sidered by  all  his  military  family,  that  he  had  a  time  every  day 
set  apart,  for  his  retirement  and  devotion. 

The  Rev.  Dr.  Jones,  of  the  Presbyterian  church  at  Morristown, 
has  declared  that  he  administered  the  communion  to  Gen.  Wash- 
ington, bj/  his  request,  at  the  public  table,  while  he  was  there,  in 
the  command  of  the  American  army. 

Jacob  Ritter,  of  Bucks  county,  Pennsylvania,  a  public  friend, 
told  me  that  he  had  a  neighbour,  whose  house  Washington 
visited  one  day,  while  he  was  in  command  at  Whitemarsh,  and 
while  at  that  house,  the  father  and  son,  as  they  told  Mr.  Ritter, 
heard  Gen.  Washington  in  his  chamber,  at  his  prayers,  praying 
extemporary,  for  himself,  and  the  happiness  and  prosperity  of  the 
nation,  &c. 

The  Wampole  family,  where  Gen.  Washington  quartered,  when 
with  his  command  in  Montgomery  county,  told  me,  that  they 
knew  of  his  habitual  retirement  to  his  chamber  to  pray,  and  that 
they  sometimes  overheard  him  so  engaged. 

The  New  York  Mirror,  of  May  1S34,  gives  an  account  of 
Washington  being  benighted  and  stopping  at  the  house  of  a  poor 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  305 

man,  near  the  Highlands,  and  that  the  family  related  that  they 
heard  him  pray  at  length,  for  himself,  and  his  country. 

The  late  Isaac  Potts,  a  well  known  public  friend,  at  Valley 
Forge,  when  at  one  time  in  the  woods  near  by,  came  across  the 
horse  of  Washington  tied  to  a  sapling,  and  soon  after  discovered 
the  general  on  his  knees  in  audible  prayer,  "  praying  most  fer- 
vently." Mr.  Potts  used  to  relate  that  it  so  deeply  affected  him, 
as  never  to  be  forgotten,  and  that  he  went  home,  telling  his  wife 
with  many  tears,  and  deep  emotion,  of  the  circumstance,  saying 
too,  at  the  time,  "  if  there  be  any  on  earth  to  whom  the  Lord 
will  listen,  it  is  to  George  Washington :"  adding  as  his  belief,  "  our 
nation  will  yet  have  its  independence  ;"  for  he  doubted  not  that 
"  God  had  so  willed  it." 

The  late  Joseph  Eastburn,  who  was  a  lay-minister  in  the 
Presbyterian  church,  in  Philadelphia,  related  to  his  friend,  Mr. 
Richard  Loxley,  that  while  he,  Eastburn,  was  on  camp  duty  near 
Princeton,  he  heard  when  entering  a  thicket,  the  audible  utter- 
ance of  some  solemn  voice,  and  seeking  further  for  the  cause, 
found  Gen.  Washington  upon  his  knees  in  prayer.  He  retired 
hastily,  fully  satisfied  in  his  own  conviction,  that  he  was  a  great 
man  who  feared  God,  and  trusted  in  his  worship.  In  after 
years,  when  Mr.  Eastburn  had  become  religious,  and  when 
Washington  had  become  President  of  the  United  States,  it  became 
matter  of  concern  to  Mr.  Eastburn,  that  the  President  should 
sanction  the  theatre  by  his  presence.  He  supposed,  it  was  a 
measure  deemed  inoffensive  by  churchmen  ;  but  venerating  the 
man,  and  wishing  only  his  best  interests,  he  could  not  forbear  to 
open  his  mind  to  the  President  by  a  letter,  offering  him  therein, 
his  reasons  for  asking  him  as  a  Christian  man,  to  avoid  the  drama. 
Mr.  Eastburn  believed  that  it  had  the  effect,  to  cause  him  to  go 
no  more  ;  for  he  never  after  heard  of  its  occurrence.  The  for- 
bearance, if  it  was  only  such,  was  an  amiable  concession,  at  least, 
to  the  opinion  and  good  will,  of  a  well  intentioned  interference. 

We  know  it  to  be  a  fact,  that  Gen.  Washington,  while  Presi- 
dent, was  accustomed  to  ask  a  blessing  before  meat  at  his  own 
table,  doing  it  in  a  standing  posture,  and  only  departing  from  the 
service,  when  a  clergyman  might  chance  to  be  present,  to  whom 
to  offer  the  duty. 

The  profile  likeness  which  we  give  of  Washington,  in  this 
work,  is  done  from  an  original  executed  by  Saml.  Folwell,  of 
Philadelphia,  and  has  been  noticed  in  the  Gazette  United  States, 
as  the  best,  as  to  spirit  and  truth  of  expression,  ever  taken.  It 
was  in  truth  an  off  hand  happy  hit,  done  by  the  artist,  when  un- 
known to  ^'  the  beheld  of  all  beholders."  Done  as  he  appeared 
before  Congress  at  Philadelphia.  Inasmuch  as  it  is  like  no  other 
man,  so  it  is  only  like  himself. 

"  Rotten  Row"  (in  New  York  city),  must  have  been  named 
after  that  name  of  a  place  in  London.  The  same  too  must  have 
39  2  c  2 


306  Miscellaneous  Facts. 

been  the  cause  of  the  name  of  "  Whitehall"  and  its  sHp,  &c.  They 
affected  London  names,  such  as  "  the  Mall/'  "  the  White  Conduit 
house,"  "  Greenwich,"  &c. 

In  the  New  York  Gazette  of  1763,  there  is  an  advertisement, 
notifying  that  Mrs.  Steel  has  removed  the  King's  Arms  tavern, 
from  opposite  the  Exchange  to  the  Broadway,  at  the  lower  end 
opposite  the  fort. 

Storm  and  Flood.  In  1822  there  was  a  great  N.  E.  storm  of 
wind  and  rain,  which  flooded  numerous  houses  and  stores  along 
the  river  side.  One  as  great  or  greater,  again  occurred  on  Satur- 
day night  and  Monday  morning,  of  the  15th  and  17th  December, 
1833.  "  From  Whitehall  to  Catharine  street,  the  wharves  were 
all  overflowed,  the  adjacent  cellars  filled  with  water,  and  boats 
from  the  vessels  in  the  harbour  sailing  over  the  wharves.  A  sail 
boat  had  passed  up  Maiden  lane  from  South  to  Front  street. 
Many  vessels  were  injured,  some  sunk,  and  along  the  whole  coast 
considerable  losses  of  vessels  occurred.  It  was  like  the  great  Sep- 
tember gale  of  1831. 

In  many  places  people  crossed  the  streets  in  boats,  and  when 
the  tide  was  at  its  highest,  the  following  extraordinary  announce- 
ment was  placed  on  the  bulletin  of  the  Courier : 

"  Arrived  this  day  at  one  o'clock,  at  the  corner  of  Water  street 
and  Maiden  lane,  row-boat  Ontario,  Capt.  French,  in  ballast; 
will  receive  passengers  and  freight  for  one  hour,  or  as  long  as  the 
tide  will  serve.  Barker  French." 

The  cold  at  Albany,  1835 — Sunday,  January  4th,  was  "the 
coldest  day  known  there  for  the  last  half  century." 

At  the  Mansion-house  of  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer,  at  6  A.  M.  32 
degrees  below  zero. 

At  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer  Jr.,  at  7§  A.  M.,  32  degrees  below 
zero. 

At  Edward  Brown's,  in  Steuben  street,  at  7  A.  M.  31  §  degrees 
below  zero — at  8  A.  M.  at  30^  degrees.  This  thermometer  was 
4  degrees  lower  than  the  cold  day  of  1817. 

The  above  were  the  lowest  parts  of  the  town. 

At  the  Academy  which  was  high  ground,  at  7  A.  M.  it  was 
23  degrees  below  zero  ;  at  9  A.  M.  20  degrees  below  zero ;  and 
at  10  A.  M.  17  degrees  below  zero. 

At  sunrise,  to  wit: — at  Boston,  15  degrees  below  zero;  at 
Portsmouth,  20  degrees  below  zero ;  at  New  Haven,  23  degrees 
below  zero  ;  at  Hartford,  25  degrees  below  zero  ;  at  Goshen,  N.  Y. 
32  degrees  below  zero;  at  Newark,  N.  J.,  7  degrees  below  zero  ; 
and  at  Philadelphia,  3  degrees  below  zero. 

Holt's  Hotel.  What  a  mammoth,  and  what  a  change  of  char- 
acter ;  dines  200  persons — 250  is  ordinary,  2500  daily  at  all  its 
tables ;  has  all  its  rooms  filled,  and  250  beds  engaged  at  night ; 
kills  an  ox  every  day ;  puts  700  pounds  of  meat  at  a  time  on  its 
fire  spit,  which  is  itself  turned  by  steam.     It  only  seems  strange, 


Miscellaneous  Facts,  307 

that  any  people  of  usual  domestic  feelings  and  sympathies,  should 
ever  fall  into  such  a  scheme  of  living  so  much  in  crowd  and 
bustle.  This  Holt  was  a  rich  butcher,  worth  100,000  dollars, 
and  in  two  years  his  house  ruined  him,  and  was  sold  out  at 
1 70,000  dollars  loss. 

Seals  visited  New  York  in  spring,  1833,  and  went  chiefly  to 
Robins'  (Seals)  reef  at  low  water — their  former  old  haunt. 

Three  seals  were  seen  in  April  1833,  at  Chester,  Pa,,  and  one 
was  taken. 

The  inn  of'''  the  King^s  Arms^'*  was  an  old  and  noted  tavern  ; 
it  stood  in  Broadway  between  little  Prince  and  Crown  streets. 
This  place  before  the  revolution,  was  much  visited  by  the  officers 
quartered  in  Fort  George,  and  by  those  who  resided  near  the 
market-place.  It  was  of  antiquated  form — had  been  erected  as 
early  and  visited  by  Lord  Cornbury  in  his  time — He  being  a 
spendthrift  who  liked  the  voluptuous  indulgences  of  a  tavern. 
The  front  was  of  grey  stone,  narrow  windows  and  arched,  but 
those  of  the  dining  room  were  large  and  went  down  to  the  floor, 
and  so  serving  to  admit  the  guests  from  the  piazza  along  the 
front,  which  looked  out  upon  the  North  river,  and  affording  a 
distant  and  fine  river  scenery.  Before  the  house  was  a  fine  row  of 
catalpas  trees,  now  seldom  seen  at  or  near  New  York.  The  top 
was  surmounted  by  a  cupola,  a  table,  and  seats,  and  a  good  tele- 
scope for  a  good  look  out.  The  inn-keeper  (it  is  said)  was  Snod- 
grass.  Because  of  its  fine  view  of  river  scenery,  it  was  always 
held  in  high  repute  as  a  good  look-out  post ;  delighting  the  eye 
and  enchanting  the  imagination.  I  have  in  my  possession,  a  long 
and  interesting  legendary  story  about  this  house  and  its  guests. 

Statue  of  Pitt,  Earl  of  Chatham.  This  finely  executed  statue, 
which  was  voted  in  the  year  1766  by  the  assembly  of  New  York, 
on  an  appropriation  of  ^67000,  to  be  done  in  brass,  as  a  compli- 
ment to  his  character,  and  in  memory  of  his  exertions  to  effect 
the  repeal  of  the  odious  stamp  act,  was  set  up  in  marble,  in  Wall 
street  near  the  present  Exchange,  where  it  remained  for  several 
years.  At  length  it  got  mutilated  by  losing  its  head — struck  off 
by  some  night  party  in  a  freak  of  mischief,  as  it  was  said.  It 
was  removed  after  a  while,  as  an  unsightly  object,  and  as  an 
inconvenience  in  so  narrow  and  so  much  used  a  street.  What 
is  curious,  is,  that  such  a  costly  sculpture,  should  by  any  means 
become  a  cast-away,  and  Idiy  neglected  as  I  have  since  seen  it,  un- 
known to  the  mass  of  the  citizens,  in  the  yard  of  the  public  arse- 
nal. It  is  said  since,  that  a  tory  party  got  up  the  vote  for  the 
statue,  and  that  the  Earl  was  not  in  fact,  at  any  time,  devoted  to 
our  exemption  from  parliamentary  bondage.  Granting  all  this, 
why  should  we  war  upon  the  arts ;  and  why  should  not  some 
gentlemen  of  liberal  minds  and  right  feelings,  opposed  to  a  war 
with  the  dead,  unite  to  give  the  statue  a  new  head,  and  place  it 
in  some  conspicuous  public  place,  for  the  single  purpose  of  pre- 


308  Miscellaneous  Facts, 

serving  such  an  expensive  token  of  a  once  pervading  interest  in 
the  views  and  feelings  of  our  forefathers  ?  Our  views  are  of 
course  only  conservative.  Should  not  the  Society  of  Artists  take 
this  matter  into  their  consideration  ? 

Colonial  times  and  manners. — We  ought,  perhaps,  to  make 
the  general  remark  concerning  the  present  work,  that  we  have 
omitted  several  matters  and  things,  which  might  equally  go  to 
illustrate  the  manners  and  customs  of  New  York  society  at  and 
before  the  period  of  the  revolution ;  not  herein  told  or  related, 
because  they  were  already  published  in  the  Annals  of  Philadel- 
phia and  Pennsylvania,  which  work  is  intended  to  be  as  much 
a  matter  of  separate  interest,  as  if  the  present  work  was  not  pub- 
lished. We  have  however  herein  borrowed  from  that  work,  some 
items  concerning  apparel,  furniture  and  equipage ;  and  concerning 
these,  we  have  to  remark,  that  there  seems  an  earlier  attention 
in  New  York  to  the  adoption  and  use  of  what  was  foreign  and 
modish.  Induced  no  doubt,  through  the  influence  of  the  gaiety, 
fashion,  and  expensive  habits  of  the  foreign  military  and  marine  so 
constantly  arriving  or  quartering  among  them ;  and  leading  to  much 
society  and  intercourse  with  our  ladies  and  their  families.  We 
thus  notice  there,  earlier  uses  of  carpets  and  papered  walls,  and  of 
foreign  milliners  and  dress-makers,  Windsor  chairs,  glass  utensils, 
jewelry,  dentistry,  use  of  watches,  umbrellas,  stage  plays,  balls, 
&c.  Their  earliest  carriages  were  imported  in  1766,  from  Dublin, 
with  workmen  to  repair  or  make  others,  among  which  are  named 
landaus,  curricles,  sedans,  and  even  sleighs,  "  with  gildings,  carv- 
ings, and  japan"  to  suit.  All  these  were  new  things  then,  to  suit 
best  English  society  of  modish  habits  and  means  ;  and  not  those 
Dutch  inhabitants,  who  regarded  none  of  those  things.  As  riches 
came,  luxuries  and  all  their  concomitants  followed  ;  so  that  even 
till  now  the  New  Yorkers  have  therein  the  ascendency  and  lead  ! 
Few  regard  cost  now :  there  all  modish  things  find  countenance 
and  place.  All  that  which  once  marked  simple  republican  habits 
and  views,  are  no  longer  regarded  as  necessarily  due  from  their 
avowed  principles,  nor  practically  needful  from  those  who,  how- 
ever republican  in  bias  or  profession,  have  the  means  by  acquired 
wealth,  to  adopt  that  which  is  courtly  and  refined,  in  monarchical 
Europe.  The  simple  and  frugal  times  of  colonial  days,  are  all, 
forever  gone  !     "  Tempera  mutantur,  et  nos  mutamur  in  illis." 

When  the  British  were  in  full  power  and  glory  in  New  York, 
before  the  Revolution,  the  ladies  showed  a  great  deal  of  respect 
to  the  trappings  of  the  officers,  so  much  so,  that  at  balls  and  other 
gala  occasions,  it  was  common  to  call  the  gentlemen  of  the  party, 
the  mohairs,  in  allusion  to  their  plainer  dress. 

Funerals.  When  Philip  Livingston,  Esq.,  (father  of  Gov.  Wm. 
Livingston  of  N.  J.,)  merchant,  died  in  1749,  his  funeral  regale 
and  expenses,  after  the  manner  of  the  times,  cost  £500.  On  that 
occasion  two  ceremonies  were  performed,  one   at   his  manor 


Miscellaneous  Facts,  309 

among  his  tenantry,  and  one  in  New  York  city.  At  each  place  a 
whole  pipe  of  wine  was  spicediox  the  guests.  The  bearers  at  the 
several  places  were  presented  with  mourning  rings,  silk  scarfs 
and  handkerchiefs.  The  eight  bearers  in  New  York  had  each 
the  gift  of  a  monkey  spoon,  (that  is  having  a  monkey  carved  on 
the  handle,)  and  at  the  manor  all  the  tenantry  had  a  gift  of  a 
pair  of  black  gloves  and  a  handkerchief  In  a  later  period.  Gov. 
Wm.  Livingston,  wrote  in  the  Independent  Reflector  of  1753,  his 
objections  to  extravagance  in  funerals,  and  his  wife,  it  was  said, 
was  the  first  who  ventured  as  an  example  of  economy,  to  substi- 
tute linen  scarfs,  for  the  former  silk  ones. 

The  Dutch  Forefathers  of  Neio  York.  Mr.  Sedgwick,  in  his 
life  of  Gov.  Livingston,  makes  the  judicious  and  true  remark, 
that  "  it  is  somewhat  surprising  that  we  should  not  be  more  proud 
of  our  partial  descent  from  a  nation,  at  one  time  so  conspicuous 
in  European  history.  Thus,  we  are  accustomed  to  speak  of  the 
unostentatious  and  commercial  habits  of  the  Dutch  settlers  of 
New  York,  in  a  tone  which  is  rarely  applied  to  the  citizens  of  the 
mother  country."  The  same  author  suggests  "  whether  or  no, 
opinions  on  this  subject  have  not  been  influenced  by  Mr.  Irving's 
mock  history ;  and  if  so,  it  is  the  first  time,  that  acknowledged 
fiction  has  been  adopted  as  fact !"  The  last  assigned  cause,  is  too 
recent,  to  account  for  the  feeling.  It  was  better  accounted  for, 
"  in  the  unostentatious  habits"  of  the  former  people.  They  sought 
no  fame,  and  had  none.  They  were  frugal,  unpretending, 
domestic  and  happy.  Such  a  race  of  "  worthy  burghers"  were 
too  tame  to  be  gloried  in  !  but  all  who  came  out  under  govern- 
ment patronage  as  British,  came  with  pomp  and  circumstance, 
and  trappings  of  official  association.  All  they  did  showed  out 
with  style  and  eclat.  They  had  all  the  tinsel  of  glory  ;  and  this 
readily  caught  the  eye  and  captivated  the  imagination  of  the 
multitude.  New  York  and  Albany,  as  the  perpetual  head-quarters 
of  the  civil  and  military  British  rulers,  readily  took  the  lead  with 
whoever  wished  to  rank  themselves  as  "  best  society,"  even  in 
the  colonial  days.  Whatever  those  two  cities  seemed  to  value 
most,  came  to  be  the  leading  rule  of  estimation  in  the  opinion  of 
the  multitude  everywhere. 

"  The  Province  House,^^  at  the  Battery,  wherein  dwelt  Gov. 
Tryon,  was  consumed  by  fire  at  midnight,  on  the  17th  December, 
1773.  The  family  escaped  with  difficulty.  The  Governor's 
daughter  leaped  from  the  second  story  window,  and  her  maid 
Elizabeth  Garrett,  afraid  to  follow  her,  was  burned  to  death  ! 
Greater  mischief  would  have  occurred,  but  for  the  snow  on  the 
adjacent  buildings.  £5000  was  voted  to  the  Governor  in  con- 
sideration of  his  loss,  &c.  He  seems  to  have  been  popular  among 
them  then. 

Cooper^ s  Tale  of  the  fVater  ^7/f^,  profiting,  as  I  presume,  by 
my  facts  concerning  the  ancient  Ferry  House  at  the  head  of 


310  Miscellaneous  Facts. 

Broad  street,  thus  graphically  depicts  the  place  and  appurtenances, 
10  wit :  "  A  deep  narrow  creek  penetrated  the  island,  at  this  point, 
for  the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  Each  of  its  banks  had  a 
row  of  buildings,  as  the  houses  line  a  canal  in  the  cities  of  Hol- 
land. As  the  natural  course  of  the  inlet  was  necessarily  respected, 
the  street  had  taken  a  curvature  not  unlike  that  of  a  new  moon. 
The  houses  were  ultra-Dutch,  being  low,  angular,  fastidiously 
neat,  and  all  erected  with  their  gables  to  the  street.  Each  had 
its  ugly  and  inconvenient  entrance,  termed  a  stoop,  its  vane  or 
weathercock,  its  dormer-window,  and  its  graduated  battlement- 
walls.  Near  the  apex  of  one  of  the  latter,  a  little  iron  crane  pro- 
jected into  the  street.  A  small  boat  of  the  same  metal,  swung 
from  its  end,  a  sign  that  the  building  to  which  it  appended  was 
the  Ferry  House.^' 

"  An  inherent  love  of  artificial  and  confined  navigation  had 
probably  induced  the  burghers  to  select  this  spot,  as  the  place 
whence  so  many  craft  departed  from  the  town,  since  it  is  certain 
that  the  two  rivers  could  have  furnished  divers  points  more 
favourable  for  such  an  object." 

"  At  the  time  of  the  departure  of  the  periagua,  at  sunrise,  fifty 
blacks  were  seen  in  the  street,  dipping  their  brooms  into  the  creek 
and  flourishing  water  over  the  side-walks,  and  on  the  fronts  of 
the  low  edifices.  This  light,  but  daily  duty  was  relieved  by 
clamorous  collisions  of  wit,  and  hj  shouts  otf  merriment,  in  which 
the  whole  street  would  join,  as  with  one  joyous  and  reckless 
movement  of  the  spirit."  "  Here  and  there,  a  grave  burgher, 
still  in  his  night-cap,  might  be  seen  with  a  head  thrust  out  of  an 
upper  window,  Ustening  to  these  light-hearted  ebullitions  of  the 
noisy  race,  and  taking  note  of  all  the  merry  jibes,  that  flew  from 
mouth  to  mouth,  with  an  indomitable  gravity." 

"  The  periagua,  as  the  craft  was  called,  partook  of  a  European 
and  an  American  character.  It  possessed  the  length,  narrowness, 
and  clean  bow  of  the  canoe,  from  which  its  name  was  derived, 
with  the  flat  bottom  and  lee  board  of  a  boat  constructed  for  the 
shallow  waters  of  the  low  countries." 

[At  this  place,  on  board  such  a  passage  boat,  he  describes  the 
'^  Skimmer  of  the  Seas,"  the  commander  of  the  buccaneering 
"  Water  fVitch,^'  as  taking  his  passage  with  others,  going  over 
to  Staten  Island.  This  in  the  time  of  Queen  Anne,  and  with  the 
privity  of  Lord  Cornbury  the  ex-governor,  still  detained  by  his 
debts  and  obligations  at  New  York.] 

Rich  men  in  New  York.  In  the  summer  of  1841,  died  two 
conspicuous  millionaires,  made  rich  chiefly  by  the  rise  of  their  real 
estate  in  and  near  Wall  street,  viz  :  Henry  Breevort  with  two 
millions,  and  Mr.  Jerroleram  with  one  million.  These  in  early  life 
were  market  gardeners. 

John  Jacob  Astor,  so  very  rich,  is  a  German  who  began  among 
us  with  a  store  of  German  toys,  can  now  build  a  Hotel  for  half  a 


m!!iL^__:  ■  „..iL;!§piiiigipi!iin!i!iiijgHifflir' 
Last  Dutch  House  in  Broad  Street,  p.  196  and  350. 


Provost,  British  Prison, — Park,  p.  327  and  351. 


t'       1  • 

*  c        • 


«  -.'      • « 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  311 

million  and  give  it  to  his  son  !  The  brother  of  J.  J.  Astor  was  a 
victualler,  and  is  now  very  rich  also.  All  the  family  are  frugal.  One 
of  the  Stuvyesants,  now  inheriting  a  part  of  the  Stuvyesant  marsh 
meadows,  could  sell  it  out  for  one  million  of  dollars  !  Wm.  Bay- 
ard's farm  place,  which  could  have  been  bought  in  1800,  for 
fifteen  thousand  dollars,  was  sold  out  in  1833  for  sixty  thousand 
dollars,  to  men  who  sold  the  same  in  lots  for  two  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand  dollars.  These  facts  are  maddening  to  some 
rapacious  minds,  wherefore  sales  of  lots  have  been  made  on  this 
island  and  over  on  Brooklyn,  so  far  beyond  population  as  would 
take  a  century  to  use  !  In  Jan.  1835,  the  sales  of  lots,  by 
Bleekers  as  auctioneers,  amounted  to  upwards  of  five  millions  of 
dollars  !  Reaction  may  be  feared,  in  some  seven  years  hence, 
when  the  chief  amount  of  purchase  is  to  be  paid.  So  different  is 
paying  from  buying. 

Rise  of  property  !  in  Brooklyn.  Its  increase  of  value  in  lots 
and  land  !  In  1834  the  farm  of  Jacob  Bergen  at  Red  Hook,  two 
miles  from  Brooklyn  ferry,  sold  for  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  ; 
it  consisted  of  one  hundred  acres  of  hilly  and  sandy  soil ;  and 
the  farm  of  John  Skillman,  at  the  Wallabout,  consisting  of  sixty 
acres,  and  two  miles  from  the  same  Brooklyn  ferry,  has  been  sold 
for  fifteen  hundred  dollars  per  acre,  say  ninety  thousand  dollars. 
Mr.  John  Mason,  President  of  the  Commercial  Bank,  has  fifty 
acres,  now  eight  hundred  lots,  adjoining  to  the  Bank  and  Chemical 
works,  for  which  he  gave  seven  thousand  dollars  forty  years  ago, 
and  could  now  get  for  them  half  a  million  of  dollars  !  It  was  a 
farm,  on  which  he  lent  his  money  on  mortgage.  Mr.  Mason  was 
originally  a  poor  man  and  a  tradesman  of  New  Jersey. 

The  premises  of  Grant  Thorburn  [the  old  meeting-house  of 
Friends]  in  Liberty  street,  which  he  bought  in  1825  for  twenty- 
six  thousand  dollars,  without  the  money  to  pay  for  it  too,  sold  in 
his  hands  in  ten  years,  in  1835,  for  one  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
The  good  man,  who  believes  in  Providence  [as  decretal]  thinks  it 
has  to  be  so,  and  none  is  more  worthy  to  enjoy  it,  with  thank- 
fulness. 

Liverpool  and  Havre  Packets.  The  man  is  still  alive  in  full 
health,  who  commanded  a  schooner  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
tons,  the  only  vessel  in  the  trade  between  New  York  and  Liver- 
pool. 

In  1819,  the  ship  Stephania,  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  tons, 
was  built  for  the  Havre  trade,  deemed  then  to  be  over  large,  and 
now  they  are  forming  ships  of  seven  hundred  tons  for  the  same 
service  in  1834. 

*dn  ancient  sword  of  the  Knickerbockers,  was  lately  found,  and 
put  in  the  Hartford  Museum,  impressed  1554  in  gold,  and  having 
the  words  in  Dutch  "  May  God  be  with  us."  It  was  taken  out 
of  the  bank  of  the  Connecticut  river  in  Windsor  at  eight  feet 


312  Miscellaneous  Facts. 

depth,  and  may  have  been  so  covered  by  the  change  of  the  river 
bed,  as  it  lay  nearly  at  the  level  of  the  river. 

Robert  Fulton.  This  great  steam  inventor  is  enrolled  in  the 
city  directory  of  Philadelphia  in  the  year  1785,  thus:  "  Robert 
Fulton,  miniature  painter,  corner  of  Second  and  Walnut  streets." 

The  Growth  of  our  Country.  Within  a  few  years  (1833)  an 
old  gentleman  has  gone  down  to  his  grave,  in  New  York, — Mr. 
John  Munro,  in  the  98th  year  of  his  age.  He  was  a  descendant  of 
the  Hugonots,  who  fled  to  this  country  at  the  revocation  of  the 
edict  of  Nantz,  in  1686.  He  was  of  the  third  generation  from  the 
original  emigrants.  His  name  was  Maureau ;  but  then  emigrants, 
in  many  places,  anglicized  their  names  when  it  was  convenient,  not 
thinking  that  the  time  would  come  when  they  would  be  proud 
of  having  been  descended  from  a  French  emigrant.  The  mention 
of  this  worthy  old  gentleman  in  this  place  was  to  call  to  our  mind 
the  growth  of  our  country  during  the  life  of  one  individual.  At 
his  birth  the  thirteen  colonies  did  not  contain  over  a  million  of 
inhabitants  ;  the  city  of  New  York  about  twelve  thousand  ;  the 
city  of  Boston  about  the  same  number ;  Philadelphia,  although 
it  had  been  settled  but  little  more  than  half  a  century,  had  rapidly 
increased  in  population,  and  was  quite  as  large  as  either  of  them. 
The  whole  commerce  of  the  colonies  was  not  then  so  much,  in 
point  of  revenue,  as  has  been  taken  in  two  days,  from  the  com- 
merce of  New  York,  within  these  last  ten  years.  From  the 
custom-house  returns  from  the  29th  of  September,  1749,  to  29th 
of  September,  1750,  there  were  entered  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  vessels,  including  coasters,  and  there  were  cleared  out  two 
hundred  and  eighty  of  the  same  description — probably  more  than 
two-thirds  of  these  were  coasters,  running  from  this  port  to 
Charleston,  (South  CaroUna,)  or  from  this  port  to  Boston.  The 
commerce  to  England  and  Holland  was  chiefly  confined  to  the 
exportation  of  furs,  and  to  the  importation  of  articles  of  domestic 
necessity.  At  that  time  the  Park  was  quite  out  of  town,  and 
where  Bond  street  now  is,  would  have  been  considered  a  journey 
into  the  country.  Albany  was  an  old  settlement,  but  just  beyond 
it  all  was  a  howling  wilderness.  There  was  nothing  but  a  blazed 
way  at  that  time  to  Lake  George,  which  in  a  few  years  after- 
wards became  the  seat  of  war. 

At  that  period  the  revenue  of  the  port  of  London  was  not  so 
much  as  that  of  the  port  of  New  York  at  this  day ;  and  the  island 
of  Great  Britain  did  not  then  equal  this  country  in  population 
now.  At  the  period  of  the  birth  of  the  old  gentleman  we  have 
mentioned,  there  was  but  one  periodical  journal  printed  in  this 
city.  This  ivas  issued  November,  1733,  and  of  course  was  then 
only  in  its  second  year.  This  newspaper  was  called  the  New 
York  Weekly  Journal,  and  was  well  conducted,  it  is  said.  It 
was  well  established,  as  one  of  the  historians  of  that  age  informs 


Miscellaneous  Facts,  313 

us,  "  by  the  citizens  of  New  York,  as  a  medium  through  which 
they  might  pubhsh  strictures  on  an  arbitrary  government."  In 
1735  there  was  an  attempt  to  put  down  the  freedom  of  the  press. 
"  The  government  of  New  York,  now  in  the  hands  of  Gov. 
Crosby,  was  arbitrarily  administered.  Free  strictures  being  made 
on  him  and  his  council,  in  the  Weekly  Journal,  the  council  order- 
ed the  three  numbers  of  that  gazette  to  be  burnt  by  the  sheriff. 
John  Peter  Zanger,  the  printer,  was  at  length,  imprisoned  by  a 
'warrant  from  the  governor  and  council ;  and  after  a  severe 
imprisonment  of  thirty-five  weeks,  was  tried  for  printing  those 
offensive  papers.  Andrew  Hamilton,  an  eminent  lawyer  of 
Philadelphia,  though  aged  and  infirm,  learning  the  distresses  of 
the  prisoner  and  importance  of  the  trial,  came  to  New  York  to 
plead  Zanger's  cause,  and  made  so  able  a  plea  that  the  jury 
brought  in  the  prisoner  not  guilty.  The  common  council  of  the 
city  of  New  York,  for  this  noble  and  successful  service,  presented 
Mr.  Hamilton  his  freedom  of  the  corporation  in  a  gold  box." 
Thus  we  see  the  struggles  our  predecessors  had  to  pass  through 
for  the  freedom  of  the  press.  Their  conduct  is  worthy  imitation. 
The  subject  might  be  extended  to  volumes. 

Capt.  Robert  Kidd.  I  have  since  seen  an  old  London  edition 
account  of  this  sea  rover,  from  which  I  derive  some  additional 
facts,  to  wit :  At  the  time  of  his  engagement  in  the  Adventure 
galley,  he  had  the  reputation  of  a  man  of  courage  and  energy, 
having  been  commander  of  a  privateer  in  the  West  Indies,  in 
the  beginning  of  King  William's  war ;  afterwards  he  became  a 
smuggler,  and  traded  among  the  pirates  in  a  little  rakish  vessel 
that  could  run  into  all  kinds  of  water.  As  he  knew  all  the  haunts 
and  lurking  places  of  the  pirates,  he  was  recommended  by  Lord 
Bellermont,  then  governor  of  Barbadoes,  to  be  a  fit  man  to  put 
down  piracy,  on  the  principle  of  setting  a  rogue  to  catch  a  rogue. 
He  got,  however,  no  encouragement  from  King  William,  and 
therefore  he  went  out  upon  private  enterprise,  though  under  a 
king's  commission.  Kidd  died  hard,  for  the  rope  with  which  he 
was  first  tied  up  broke,  and  he  fell  to  the  ground.  -  He  was  tied 
up  a  second  time  more  eftectually.  This  gave  rise  to  the  popular 
story  of  Kidd's  being  twice  hung.  The  same  work  spoke  thus  of 
the  pirates  and  people  at  and  about  New  York,  in  the  year  1695, 
viz  :  "  The  easy  access  to  the  harbour,  the  number  of  hiding 
places  about  its  waters,  and  the  laxity  of  its  newly  organized 
government,  made  it  a  great  rendezvous  of  pirates,  where  they 
mi^^ht  dispose  of  their  booty  and  concert  new  depredations. 
There  they  sold  their  rich  luxuries  and  spoils  of  the  Spanish  pro- 
vinces at  small  prices,  to  the  wary  and  thrifty  traders  of  New  York. 
To  them  at  least  they  were  welcome  visitors,  and  for  that  reason 
crews  of  these  desperadoes  might  be  seen  swaggering  in  open  day 
about  the  streets,  elbowing  the  quiet  inhabitants,  or  squandering 
40  2D 


314  Miscellaneous  Facts, 

their  money  in  taverns, and  exciting  neighbourhoods  with  midnight 
brawls  and  revelry.  In  time  it  became  matter  of  scandal  and  a 
public  pest,  and  the  government  at  home  was  urgently  applied 
to,  to  suppress  the  evil  in  the  colonies."  [The  foregoing  extracts, 
are  confirmed  in  the  Pirate's  Own  Book,  Boston  edition,  1837.] 

Capt.  Kidd  "  was  called  Robert,  and  was  executed  as  Robert.''^ 
Tradition  says  that  the  Sachem's  Head  and  the  Thimble  island 
were  his  rendezvous  ;  one  of  these  rocky  islands  on  the  Sound  is 
called  Kidd's  Island.  He  deposited  on  Gardiner's  Island,  the 
same  given  up  to  Gov.  Bellermont,  and  of  which  there  is  now  a 
schedule  in  the  hands  of  the  Gardiner  family  at  this  day.*  It  is 
said  that  a  pot  of  eighteen  hundred  dollars  was  ploughed  up  two 
years  ago,  in  a  corn-field  at  Martha's  Vineyard,  supposed  to  be 
Kidd's  money.  At  Kidd's  island  is  a  cave,  where  it  is  said  the 
pirates  used  to  hide  and  sleep  ;  inside  is  cut  "  R.  K."  supposed 
for  Robert  Kidd  ;  a  hole  in  the  rocky  floor  chiselled  out  is  called 
their  punch  bowl  for  carousal.  Another  little  islet  is  called  "  Money 
island,"  and  has  been  nmch  dug  for  treasure.  Gov.  Fletcher  has 
had  the  reputation  of  countenancing  the  pirates,  and  Nichols,  one 
of  his  council,  has  been  handed  down,  by  tradition,  as  their  agent. 
In  1S44,  they  found,  as  is  said,  Kidd's  vessel  sunk  in  1699  in 
the  North  river,  near  Caldwell's,  and  got  up  a  gun,  and  expected 
to  find  also  some  treasure. 

Capt.  Kidd's  Vessel.  In  the  summer  of  1844,  they  succeeded 
by  use  of  divers  and  diving  bells,  &c.,  to  discover  up  the  North 
river,  a  little  above  Verplank's  Point,  at  Caldwell's  landing,  the 
remains  of  Capt.  Kidd's  ship,  it  is  said,  which  was  blown  up  and 
sunk  about  the  time  of  his  arrest.  This  has  been  chiefly  ascer- 
tained by  the  assiduity  of  A.  G.  Thompson  of  Wall  street,  a  de- 
scendant of  Gardiner,  of  Gardiner's  Island,  to  whom  Kidd  entrust- 
ed a  part  of  his  money.  They  have  succeeded  to  fish  up  a  24 
pound  carronade  of  old-fashioned  construction,  and  are  using  dili- 
gence to  unearth  the  vessel  itself,  and  to  find  out  her  treasure  if  any 
there  be.  The  vessel  exceeds  150  feet  in  length,  supposed  to  be 
equal  to  the  class  of  frigates  then.  It  would  be  a  real  curiosity  to 
get  now  a  sight  of  her  construction  !  She  now  rests  but  a  little  dis- 
tance from  low  water  mark,  off"  the  mouth  of  the  race.  It  is  said 
that  this  ship,  ascertaining  while  at  Gardiner's  Island,  (their  ren- 
dezvous,) that  two  ships  were  sent  for  her  capture — she  to  escape 
them  went  up  the  North  river,  where  they  blew  up  this  ship,  and 
dispersed  the  men  with  what  treasure  they  could  bear  off".  This 
declaration  does  not  fully  accord  with  former  facts  related ;  but 
still,  as  it  now  comes  up,  that  the  aforesaid  Mr.  Thompson  has 
been  for  several  years,  seeking  after  the  hulk  of  such  a  vessel, 

•  That  original  paper  calls  him  however,  Wxllxam  Kidd,  and  so  have  some 
other  accounts. 


Miscellaneous  Fads,  315 

and  has  at  length  purchased  the  land  where  she  rests,  there  may- 
be reason  for  believing  that  the  descendants  of  the  Gardiner  family- 
have  had  their  sufficient  reasons  for  believing  in  something  like 
the  present  version  of  the  story.  The  other  story  was  in  the 
main,  that  Kidd  siurrendered  himself  voluntarily  to  Gov.  Beller- 
mont,  with  a  hope  that  the  treasure,  which  he  designated  as  being 
in  the  care  of  Gardiner  (worth  about  200,000  dollars),  might  be 
a  sufficient  douceur  to  secure  his  acquittal  with  that  officer,  and 
so  leave  Kidd  free,  to  join  his  wife  and  child,  and  to  dwell  in 
New  York  among  the  magnates  and  wealthy  class,  in  guilty 
splendour.  There  is  something  truly  interesting  and  exciting,  in 
contemplating  the  possible  recovery  and  exhibition  now  of  such 
a  relic,  of  a  century  and  a  half  of  concealment.  We  cannot  but 
wish  success  to  the  full  discovery.  [In  boring  since,  they  think 
they  have  got  into  a  cask  of  silver,  and  are  therefore  resolved  to 
persevere  by  making  a  coffer  dam,  &c.] 

Broadhead^s  Jincient  Records,  concerning  New  York.  These 
voluminous  MS.  records  in  eighty  volumes,  are  the  results  of 
Mr.  Broadhead's  researches  in  England,  France  and  Holland,  as 
an  agent  of  the  state  of  New  York,  sent  out  under  an  appropria- 
tion of  twelve  thousand  dollars  to  procure  whatever  he  could 
concerning  the  early  colonial  history  of  the  province.  In  the 
pursuit  of  this  object,  he  was  occupied  three  years.  The  very 
catalogue  of  his  several  papers,  copied  and  returned  to  our  coun- 
try, occupies  three  hundred  and  seventy-six  pages  octavo.  Such 
subjects  as  chiefly  arrested  my  attention  therein,  as  being  most 
within  the  compass  of  my  views,  I  have  hereinafter  set  down, 
and  which  while  they  may  show  somewhat  of  the  general  char- 
acter, of  the  papers  collected,  may  also  serve  as  a  reference,  to 
such  of  our  readers  as  may  feel  an  interest  to  inspect  them  further 
for  themselves.  It  might  be  remarked  concerning  such  papers, 
that  although  sundry  of  them  might  seem  of  little  value  in  them- 
selves, yet  as  a  connecting  link  to  others,  as  a  whole,  they  rise  in 
value  by  their  necessary  aggregation.  It  is  even  something 
satisfying,  to  know  how  little  need  be  known.  The  search 
appears  to  have  been  very  thorough  and  successful ;  and  only 
failed  in  one  particular,  in  not  getting  any  papers  of  the  West 
India  company  prior  to  the  year  1700,  up  to  which  time,  all  the 
previous  papers,  by  an  order  of  the  year  1821,  were  sold  at 
public  auction  as  useless  lumber,  a  sad  oversight  for  New  York 
interests  ! — 

The  following  comprise  none  from,  the  Paris  records  in  17 
vols.,  because  I  saw  but  little  that  seemed  to  induce  my  reference 
thereto.  Unless  to  mention  that  in  1689,  there  are  several  papers 
stating  schemes,  then  entertained  by  the  French  ministry,  for 
conquering  New  York,  therein  showing  how  cordially  they  de- 
sired to  make  us  an  a n^/o- American,  Galo  nation.  But  the  power 
that  directs  the  whirlwind  and  the  storm,  overruled  to  another 


316  Miscellaneous  Facts. 

course  !     Many  of  the  other  papers,  relate  to  posts  and  Indians, 
and  to  border  wars. 

From  Broadhead's  Calendar  of  Documents  which  refers  to  the 
volumes  and  pages  severally,  we  select  thus,  viz  : 

From  the  Holland  papers,  in  sixteen  volumes. 

Years.  Pages. 

Report  by  Capt.  Cornelius  Hendrickson,  of  his  discoveries  in  New 

Netherland,  -..-..     1616       32 

Letter  of  P.  Shagen,  stating  the  purchase  of  Manhattan  Island,  from 

the  Indians,  -  -  -  -  -  -     1626       36 

Memorial  of  tlie  States  General  to  King  Charles  I.,  stating  title  to 

New  Netherlands,  &c.,         .....     1632       37 

Privileges  &c.  to  be  granted  to  Dutchmen,  settling  in  New  Neth- 
erland, .......     1634       40 

Memorials  against  directors  Kieft  and  Stuyvesant,  -  -     1648       48 

Remonstrance  from  Vanderdonck  and  others,  giving  an  inter- 
esting historical  account  of  New  Netherland  from  its  disco- 
very till  1649,  ......     1649       51 

Memorials  of  S.  Claeson,  and  C,  Melyn,  complaining  of  Stuyve- 
sant, -  -  -  -  -  -  -     1650       53 

Compilation  concerning  New  Netherland,  showing  first  disco- 
veries, &c.,  -  -  -  .  .  .     1655       && 

Arrest  of  Sabastian  de  RaefF,  &c.,  pirates  in  New  Netherland,         1655       67 

Letter  of  States  General  to  West  India  Company,  respecting  the 

Swedes,  ....  -  .  -     1656       68 

Sales  of  Lands  by  Indians,  on  the  Schuylkill,     -  -  .     1656       69 

Memorial  of  inhabitants  on  Schuylkill  to  Director  Stuyvesant,        1651       69 

Declaration  of  Mattehoorn  and  other   Indians,  concerning  lands 

on  South  River,         -  -  -  -  -  -     1657       69 

Depositions  concerning  Swedes  on  South  River,  -  -     1656       69 

Capitulation  and  conditions  of  Fort  Casimir,  by  Sven  Schute,  to 

Stuyvesant,  ......  69 

Account  of  the  situation  of  New  Netherland,  who  were  first  dis- 
coverers and  settlers,  .....  73 

Letters  from  Magistrates  of  Gravesende,  Hiemstede,  Long  Island,  1653       74 

Letter  of  the  States  General,  to  the  villages  in  New  Netherland,     1664       75 

Van  Gogh's  memorial  to  the  King  of  England,  concerning  Eng- 
lish aggressions  in  New  Netherland,  ...     1664       77 

Remonstrance  of  inhabitants  of  New  Netherland  to  the  Governor 

General  against  resisting  the  English,  ...  gl 

Resolution  that  a  preacher  and  300  colonists  be  sent  to  New 

Netherland,  -  -  -  -  -  -  93 

Resolution  to  give  200  guilders  each,  to  25  families  of  Menonists 

going  to  New  Netherland,    ....  -  94 

The  Exchange  Bank  to  pay  50,000  guilders  to  the  Waldenses,        1656       95 

From  the  London  papers,  in  forty-seven  volumes. 

Years.  Pages. 
An  act  of  the  States  General,  permitting  all  oppressed  christian 

people  to  erect  a  colony  in  America,  under  Stuyvesant,  -  1661  106 
Letter  of  Mr.  Maverick  to  Col.  Nicholls,  concerning  New  York 

— of  whales  in  the  harbour — of  Nutt  Island  and  its  trees,  -  1668  113 
Robert   Hodge's  account  of  the  taking  of  New   York  by  the 

Dutch,  -  - 1673     114 

W.  Hayes'  affidavit  concerning  the  taking  of  New  York  by  the 

Dutch -  -     1673     115 

Observations  of  W.  Greenhalgh,  in  a  journey  to  the  Indians,      -     1677     117 

/ 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  317 

Years.  Pages. 
Governor  Andros'  account  of  the  general  concerns  of  New  York,     1677     117 
Relation  of  G.  Van  Sweeringen,  of  the  seating  of  Delaware  bay 

and  river,  by  the  Dutch  and  Swedes,  .  -  _     1684     121 

Letter  of  the  Council  to  Gov.  Dongan,  in  favour  of  French  pro- 

testants,         -  -  -  -  -  -  -     1687     124 

Letter  of  the  King  to  Gov.  Dongan,  directing  him  to  prosecute 

pirates,  -  -  -  -  -  -  -     1687     125 

Letter  from  the  Council  of  New  York,  stating  the  overthrow  of 

the  government — Capt.  Leisler,        -  -  -  _  129 

Letter  of  Capt.   Leisler  to  the    King  and    Queen,  his   proceed- 
ings, &c.       ------  -     1689     130 

Letter  of  P.   Reveredge,  concerning  French  families  in  New 

York, 

Extravagant  and  arbitrary  proceedings  of  Jacob  Leysler,  &c. 
Relation  of  occurrences  to  Major  Schuyler  and  christian  Indians, 
Letter  from  Wm.  Penn,  to  Gov.  Fletcher,  ... 

Major  D.  Wessel's  journal  of  his  mission  to  the  Five  Nations,   - 
Letter  of  Gov.    Fletcher— conduct   of  Pennsylvania — people  of 
New  York  go  there,  .  .  .  .  - 

List  of  reputed  Papists  in  the  city  of  New  York, 
Letter  of  Lord  Bellermont  to  the  Admiralty,  about  pirates, 
Mr.  Weaver's  statement  about  pirates — elections  in  New  York, 
Number  of  inhabitants  in  the  counties  in  New  York, 
Letter  of  Lord   Bellermont,  says   lawyers  in  New   York  are  of 
scandalous  character,  ..... 

Board  of  Trade  to  Lord  Bellermont — ships  of  war — pirates. 
Journal  of  J.  Glenn  and  N.  Bleecker  at  Onondaga, 
The  Board  of  Trade,  respecting  Capt.  Kidd,  &c.. 
Letter  of  the  King  ordering  pirates  to  be  sent  to  England, 
John  Key's  accusation  against  Lord  Bellermont, 
Secretary  R.  Livingston's  observations,  in  his  voyage  to  Onon- 
daga, .......  156 

Letter  of  Lord  Bellermont,  concerning  parties — Indians — French 

—Capt.  Kidd— Mr.  Penn,    -  -  -  -  -     1700     158 

Articles  of  agreement  between  Lord  Bellermont  and  Robert  Liv- 
ingston, and  Capt.  William  Kidd,  and  bond  of  Capt.  Kidd,      1700     159 
Letter  of  Lord  Bellermont,  concerning  Capt.  Kidd — Gillam  the 

pirate,  ..-.-.-  160 

Letter  of  Secretary  of  State,  concerning  distressed  protestants  from 

Holstein,  desiring  to  get  to  America,  ...     1708     174 

Letter  of  Gov.  Hunter,  settling  the  Palatines  on  Hudson  river,  1710  179 
Statement  of  the  Church  in  New  York,  with  remarks,    -  -     1712     183 

Letter  of  Gov.  Hunter — population  of  New  York — conspiracy  of 

slaves, 1712     183 

Letter  of  Gov.  Hunter — Indians — pirates,  &c.  ...  1717  188 
An  account  of  negro  slaves  imported  into  New  York  in  six  years, 

2395, 1726     199 

An  account  of  the  inhabitants  of  New  Jersey,  ...  1726  200 
Petition  of  A.  Rutgers,  for  grant  of  the  swamp  in  New  York,  1731  203 
Letter  of  Gov.  Cosby,  concerning  manufactures  in  New  York,  1732  205 
Instructions  of  Lord  Delaware   as  Governor  of  New  York  and 

New  Jersey, 1737    211 

List  of  the  number  of  inhabitants  of  New  York,  and  of  militia,       1737     213 
Letter  of  Mr.  Clarke,  concerning  Papist  conspiracy  to  burn  New 

York,  -  -  .  -  -  -  -     1741     2:6 

Information  of  S.  Boyle  of  Morris  county,  N.  J.,  concerning  *^e 

Moravians,    -  -  -  -  -  -     1747    222 

2  d2 


1689 

131 

1690 

131 

1691 

135 

1692 

138 

1693 

13d 

1693 

144 

1696 

144 

1698 

149 

1698 

150 

1698 

151 

151 

1699 

153 

1699 

154 

1699 

154 

1700 

155 

1700 

156 

Years.  Pages. 

1749 

228 

1749 

230 

1753 

238 

1754 

240 

241 

243 

,1754 

242 

1755 

243 

246 

)  1755 

252 

I 

253 

1759 

255 

1760 

256 

1764 

263 

265 

266 

318  Miscellaneous  Facts. 


Letter  of  Gov.  Clinton,  concerning  factions — hostile  Indians, 
List  of  the  number  of  inhabitants  in  New  York, 
Conrad  Weisser's  journal  with  the  Mohawks,     - 
Letter  of  Major  Washington  to  Gov.  Hamilton,  - 
i  Letter  of  T.  Cutler,  to  the  Bishop  of  Oxford,  concerning  Dissent- 
ers, books,  &c.,  ----- 

Letter  of  Rev.  S.  Johnson,  to  the  Bishop  of  Oxford,  church  dis- 
regarded, &c.,  ------ 

Secret  instructions  to  Gen.  Braddock,       -  -  -      Nov. 

Letter  of  Gov.  Shirley,  commends  Braddock's  plans. 
Letter  of  Rev.  S.  Johnson  to  archbishop,  of  irreligion,  college,  &c. 
Croghan's  Journals,  with  Indians  on  Ohio,  -  -    17  " 

Letter  of  Archbishop  Seeker,  to  Rev.  Dr.  Johnson,  disasters  in 
American  Ecclesiastical  establishments,        -  -  - 

Letter  of  W.  Smith,  concerning  condition  of  the  church. 
Petition  of  the  Earl  of  Stirling,  for  satisfaction  for  Long  Island, 
Petition  of  Sir  James  Jay,  to  the  king,  asking  a  grant  of  land,  - 
Letter  of  Mr.  Colden  to  the  Earl  Halifax,  on  influence  of  the  law- 
yers in  New  York,     ------ 

Same  to  Secretary  Conway,  opposition  to  stamp  act,  difficulties. 
Same  to        do.         do.         lawyers   promote   the   sedition,  to 

send  out  Judges,        ------  267 

Same  to  Secretary  Conway,  New  York   influence,  and  leads 

other  colonies,  a  crisis,  -  -  -  -  -  268 

Letter  from  Gov.  Fitch  of  Conn.,  to  Sir  H.  Moore   concerning 

militia. 
Letter  of  Sir  H.  Moore,  concerning  manufactories  in  New  York, 
Letter  of  Lord  Dunmore,  arrived  at  New  York  and  well  received. 
Trinity  church  quit  rents  for  land,  &c.,    -  -  -  - 

Letter  of  Gov.  Tryon,  ferment  in  New  York  respecting  tea. 
Same  to  Lord  D., — Colonies  revolt,  will  never  submit. 
Same  to        do.        must  embody  royalists,  and  have  a  viceroy. 
Same  to         do.        remove  the  records  onboard  ship, - 
Same  to  Lord  Germain,  enlistments,  independence,  &c.. 
Same  to  do.  New  York  taken,  Staten  Island  loyal, 

conflagration   of  New  York,  and   "Mr.  Washington   privy 
thereto,"        -------  302 

Same  to  Lord  Germain,  3030  persons  in  New  York  swear  alle- 
giance, -  -  -  -  -  -  1777    302 

Letter  of  Gov.  Tryon,  to  Mr.  Knox,  must  excite  Indians  against 

rebels,  -------  303 

Letter  of  Lord  Germain  to  government,  of  prisoners   taken  by 

sea, 1778    305 

Letter  of  Gov.  Tryon,  concerning  royalist  privateers  and  letters 

of  marque,     -------     1778     305 

Same  to  Lord  Germain,  to  give  rewards  for  congressmen,  to  ex- 
cite the  Indians,  and  to  ravage  the  coasts,     -  -  -     1778     306 
Letter  of  Gov.  Tryon — and  receipt  of  the  New  York  records,   -  307 

Same depredations  urged,  embodying  refugees    -     1779     307 

Letter  of  Gov.  Robertson  to  Lord  G. — ,  speaks  of  Cornwallis's 

surrender,  and  that  the  royalist  inhabitants  will  repair  it !     -  309 

It  must  strike  the  reader,  as  it  did  ourself,  that  such  state 
documents,  once  preserved  with  such  great  concealment  and 
secrecy,  should  come  out  at  last,  by  lapse  of  time,  to  be  no 
longer  matter  of  scruple  to  be  thus  made  known.    Showing  thus, 


1766 

269 

1767 

272 

1770 

283 

1771 

285 

1773 

290 

1775 

297 

1776 

300 

1776 

300 

1776 

301 

Miscellaneous  Facts.       •  319 

that  the  present  generation,  can  feel  themselves  virtually  exempt 
from  credit  or  blame  for  any  given  actions  of  their  forefathers. 

E.  B.  O^Callaghan's  History  of  New  Netherland.  We  use 
the  occasion  to  say  a  few  words  from  E.  B.  O'Callaghan's  recent 
work,  the  "  History  of  New  Netherland,"  wherein  he  has  very 
successfully  brought  out  a  large  fund  of  historical  facts,  concern- 
ing New  York,  while  under  the  Dutch  government.  He  shows 
from  his  abundant  materials,  what  we  had  before  alleged,  that 
there  was  much  to  be  gathered  from  our  own  MS.  records  at 
Albany.  These  he  has  used  with  much  industry  and  research ; 
and  thereby,  for  the  first  time,  fills  up  that  blank,  which  former 
historians,  such  as  Smith  and  others,  from  their  ignorance  of  the 
Dutch  language,  had  neglected  to  explore,  and  which,  at  the 
same  time,  they  took  the  liberty  to  say,  was  not  sufficiently  avail- 
able or  useful,  to  be  elaborated  into  profitable  history.  Like 
Chalmers,  all  contented  themselves,  with  barely  alluding  to  the 
history  prior  to  1664,  as  being  a  thing  unknown  :  and  that  as  to 
the  Enghsh  subsequent  government,  "they  had  prudently  copied 
what  had  been  already  established  by  the  Dutch  ;"  but  what 
was  the  character  of  the  things  copied  and  not  changed,  or  what 
the  people  who  had  been  transferred,  they  found  it  convenient  to 
say  just  nothing  !  All  this  hiatus  has  been  now  supplied  by  the 
commendable  labours  of  Mr.  O'Callaghan. 

For  the  benefit  of  such  readers  as  may  feel  curious  to  know  how 
far  he  may  have  brought  out  such  facts,  as  we  have  been  sedulous 
to  gather  in  our  present  Annals,  we  here  make  a  running  record 
of  such  items,  as  most  won  our  attention  and  regard.  They  are 
indeed  extremely  brief,  so  much  so,  that  a  very  few  pages,  if 
copied,  would  comprise  the  whole,  to  wit :  First  appearance  and 
description  of  the  country,  its  trees,  fruits,  plants,  wild  animals, 
birds,  fish,  reptiles ;  the  natives,  their  habits,  customs,  mode  of 
living,  &c. ;  names  of  first  forts  and  settlements  erected ;  arrival 
and  settlement  of  the  Walloons ;  early  English  settlers ;  some 
intercourse  with  the  Puritans  ;  jealousy  between  Enghsh  and 
Dutch  settlers ;  some  notice  of  the  patroons  ;  first  clergyman  and 
schoolmaster ;  two  or  three  English  vessels  try  to  force  a  trade 
up  the  North  river,  and  quarrels  ensue  ;  a  new  fort,  church,  and 
some  houses  erected,  and  sundry  improvements;  some  early 
notices  of  Long  Island  ;  and  English  settlements  at  Oyster  bay, 
opposed ;  Indians  sometimes  jealous  and  hostile  ;  for  that  cause, 
days  of  fasting  and  prayer  are  appointed ;  boats  going  up  North 
river  are  attacked  ;  Mrs.  Moody  is  attacked  and  Mrs.  Hutchinson 
killed ;  expeditions  to  Staten  Island  and  Greenwich,  and  Schout's 
bay  occur  ;  their  success,  and  severity  on  the  captives ;  five  hun- 
dred Indians  are  slaughtered  ;  taxes  for  expenses  are  imposed 
and  resisted  by  some  ;  first  settlers  at  Rensselaerwyck  and  Bevers- 
wyck  are  named ;  a  small  church,  and  minister  there  ;  explora- 
tions for  minerals;   a  quarrel  occurs  between  the  Rev.  Mr. 


320  Miscellaneous  Facts. 

Bogardus  and  director  Kieft ;  some  Dutchmen  receive  grants  of 
land  on  the  Delaware,  and  tlie  Schuylkill  is  purchased  of  the 
Indians;  notice  of  slaves,  as  they  were ;  finally  comes  a  brief 
notice  of  the  state  of  morals,  religion,  and  education.  The  fore- 
going-, are  topics,  it  is  to  be  remarked,  which  are  generally  told 
only  incidentally,  and  mostly  with  no  enlargement,  possibly,  as  no 
more  may  have  appeared  of  record,  a  circumstance  which  hardly 
affords  an  occasion  to  make  any  suitable  extracts.  For  instance, 
"  the  state  of  morals  and  rehgion,"  as  above  stated,  appear 
briefly  in  these  words,  to  wit :  "  Religion  and  education  felt  the 
baneful  effects  of  these  evil  influences,  (the  bickerings  between 
the  dictatorial  and  imperious  Kieft,  and  the  republican  habits  of 
the  Dutch.)  So  that  the  church  which  had  been  commenced  in 
1642,  remained  unfinished  a  long  while,  as  if  the  country  were 
indeed  without  timber  or  sawmill.  In  the  mean  time,  the 
director  uses  the  moneys  which  had  been  appropriated  therefor, 
(in  fines,  &c.,)  for  his  own  urgent  calls.  In  the  same  way,  the 
fund  for  a  public  school,  had  also  been  misapplied."  The  fore- 
going precedes,  and  comes  down  to  the  time  of  the  government 
of  Gen.  Stuyvesant,  and  ends  the  volume  ;  to  which  another 
volume  by  way  of  conclusion,  is  intended  to  be  brought  out 
hereafter. 

It  is  to  be  inferred,  that  as  Mr.  O'Callaghan  could  only  derive 
his  facts  from  formal  state  papers,  found  in  the  archives  of  office 
at  Albany,  they  were  not  of  a  nature  to  present  curious  or  amus- 
ing incidents  of  early  society,  in  manners,  habits,  dress,  and  social 
relations,  such  as  would  furnish  picturesque  and  graphic  delinea- 
tions of  things  as  they  were  once  there.  It  will  therefore  behoove 
those  who  know  the  facts  in  the  case,  to  consider  whether  more 
can  be  done  or  not.  We  cannot  however,  but  be  obliged  to  Mr. 
O'Callaghan,  for  what  he  has  elicited,  since  he  gives  the  course 
and  leading  points  of  general  history,  such  as  were  before  hidden 
from  our  view  and  contemplation. 

It  is  surely  to  be  regretted,  that  so  large  a  work  should  afford 
so  little  of  what  should  be  deemed  the  domestic  everyday  history 
of  the  community  and  their  doings.  The  completest  things  in 
this  way,  are  to  be  found  in  the  appendix  when  furnishing  copies 
of  original  papers  preserved  in  the  Van  Rensselaer  family.  Such 
as  is  found  in  the  agent  Van  Curler's  letters  to  the  patroon, 
wherein  he  writes  thus,  to  wit :  He  therein  calls  the  settlers  on  his 
lands,  "the  boors,"  and  the  patroon,  "his  honour,"  "noble 
patroon,"  "  my  Lord,"  and  "'  Lord  patroon,"  always  in  a  very 
deferential  and  reverent  manner ;  has  something,  but  briefly,  to 
say  of  raising  horses  and  cows  as  breeders,  of  building  houses 
"  for  the  boors,"  with  reed  and  thatched  roofs,  of  planting  and 
raising  tobacco,  of  building  a  small  church,  thinks  he  has  found  a 
diamond !  finds  that  the  vines  planted,  have  failed  and  perished 
by  the  frost,  talks  of  sending  wheat  for  ^ale  to  Virginia,  says  the 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  321 

price  of  seawant  increases  in  value,  and  the  article  is  much  needed ; 
says  the  sheep  die  off  surprisingly,  and  that  the  wolves  destroy 
them  also ;  that  the  swine  range  in  the  woods,  that  excellent 
turkeys  are  brought  in  by  the  Indians  ;  he  admires  the  beauty  of 
the  country  lying  along  the  Mohawk  river;  speaks  of  stone 
arriving,  and  thinks  they  may  find  means  to  procure  them  in  the 
country  at  less  expense.  The  tiles  sent  out,  he  describes  as 
crumbling  away ;  gives  forms  of  his  leases  of  lands,  and  the  stock 
which  the  boors  must  raise  and  keep,  they  to  pay  in  timber,  furs, 
and  grain.  [The  Van  Rensselaer  family  have  now  a  gold  snuff 
box,  presented  to  their  ancestor  by  Charles  II.,  a  rare  family  relic 
certainly.] 

Colonial  Paper  Monet/.  When  this  was  in  use,  it  became 
quite  a  business  with  some  to  make  and  pass  counterfeit  money. 
It  was  actually  manufactured  in  Dublin,  and  sent  out  to  agents  to 
dispose  of  It  so  happened,  particularly  in  Jersey.  Gov.  Franklin, 
the  last  of  the  king's  governors,  was  most  successful  in  ferreting 
them  out  of  their  dens  and  concealments.  One  Ford,  about  the 
year  1763,  (the  time  of  the  appointment  of  Gov.  Franklin,)  asso- 
ciated with  one  King,  had  their  home  in  an  obscure  swamp,  from 
which  they  used  to  come  occasionally  to  Amboy,  Elizabethtown, 
&c.,  appearing  as  plain  farmers,  and  disposing  of  their  money. 
This  they  did  to  several  creditable  people,  and  people  of  property, 
at  low  prices,  as  seduced  accomplices!  In  time,  they  were  much 
superseded  by  a  gang  of  confederated  counterfeiters  and  coiners 
from  New  England,  who  operated  about  Woodbridge,  Middle- 
town,  Amboy,  &c.  In  time,  the  increase  of  business  in  this  way, 
led  to  increased  vigilance  among  the  people  and  magistrates,  and 
Ford,  King  &  Co.,  were  apprehended  in  1774,  tried,  and  broke 
jail  and  got  off,  but  several  of  the  good  yeomanry,  participators, 
were  exposed,  tried  and  pardoned  ;  say  six  respectable  heads  of 
families !  It  made  a  time  of  general  and  deep  excitem,ent.  One 
of  the  decent  culprits  was  a  magistrate,  another  was  a  serious 
deacon,  and  in  such  good  standing,  that  none  would  credit  his 
malconduct  until  he  voluntarily  confessed  it,  and  that  not  until 
after  his  minister  had  publicly  prayed  for  his  deliverance  from 
"malicious  scandal,"  and  had  actually  given  public  thanks  for  his 
deliverance,  upon  a  false  report  of  "  his  release  !"  In  the  year 
1768,  when  the  counterfeiting  business  was  in  a  measure  super- 
seded by  the  new  comers  from  New  England,  Ford,  King,  and 
Cooper,  robbed  the  state  treasury  at  Amboy  of  £6000.  The 
perpetrators  were  unknown  until  1774,  when  Cooper,  then  under 
sentence  of  death  for  counterfeiting,  declared  the  facts  in  the 
case. 

Continental  Money.     It  may  interest  many  to  see  a  brief 
notice  of  the  history  and  progress  of  our  continental  money,— 
because  so  few  of  the  present  generation,  have  ever  been  rightly 
informed  respecting  its  operations  and  details.  It  is  in  itself  some 
41 


322  Miscellaneous  Fads, 

thing,  properly  appertaining  to  an  illustration  of  our  chapter  of 
"  the  War  of  Independence,"  and  as  such  we  here  give  it,  to  wit : 

In  June,  1775,  was  made  the  first  emission  of  2,000,000  of 
dollars.  Before  the  close  of  that  year,  3,000,000  more  were  issued. 
In  May,  1776,  5,000,000  more  were  issued,  in  the  autumn  of  that 
year  5,000,000  more,  and  in  December,  5,000,000  more.  Such 
frequent  and  large  emissions  began  to  reduce  their  value  in  the 
confidence  of  the  people.  In  the  mean  time,  the  power  of  taxing 
was  virtually  denied  to  the  Confederation.  They  could  only 
recommend  the  measure  to  the  States. 

The  whole  amount  issued  during  the  war  was  400,000,000 
dollars  !  but  the  collections  made  by  the  continental  government 
in  various  ways,  cancelled  from  time  to  time  about  one  half 
of  it,  so  that  the  maximum  of  valuation  at  no  time  exceeded 
^200,000,000 ;  nor  did  it  reach  that  sum,  until  its  depreciation 
had  compelled  Congress  to  take  it  in,  and  pay  it  out  at  40  dollars 
for  one  of  specie. 

It  kept  nearly  at  par  for  the  first  year ;  as  it  was  then  but  about 
equal  to  the  amount  of  specie  held  in  all  the  colonies.  But  the 
quick  succession  of  increase  tended  to  depreciate  it,  till  it  reached 
500  for  1,  and  finally  1000  for  1, — when  it  ceased  to  circulate  for 
any  value  at  all. 

Congress,  after  a  time,  exchanged  forty  for  one,  by  giving  the 
holders  loan -office  certificates  at  par,  and  had  offered  to  redeem 
the  whole  in  the  same  way  at  1000  for  1,  when  it  was  down  at 
that  price  !  but  as  those  loan-office  certificates  had  themselves 
gone  down  to  2s.  6d.  on  the  pound,  or  eight  dollars  for  one,  very 
few  were  found  to  avail  themselves  of  the  offer.  That  was  their 
misfortune,  to  have  been  so  distrustful,  or  so  needy  ! 

Public  securities  of  similar  character,  bearing  various  names, 
such  as  loan-office  certificates,  depreciation  certificates,  final  settle- 
ments, &c.,  were  also  given  to  the  public  creditors,  for  services, 
supplies,  &c.,  and  thus  constituted  Ihe  public  debt  at  the  end  of 
the  war.  All  these  were  worth  but  eight  for  one,  until  the 
adoption  of  the  present  constitution  in  1789,  when  they  were 
funded  and  rose  to  par,  and  thus  made  fortunes  for  many  ! 

The  whole  revolutionary  debt,  as  estimated  on  the  journal  of 
Congress,  the  29th  April,  1783,  not  including  the  paper  money, 
stood  thus,  viz : 

Foreign  debt  to  France  and  Holland,  at  4  per  cent.,  ^7,885,085 
Domestic  debt,  in  various  certificates,  as  above,        34,115,290 


At  four  and  six  per  cent,  interest,  ^42,000,375 

Making  an  interest  of  ^2,415,953  per  annum. 

To  the  foregoing  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  after- 
wards added,  for  claims  held  by  several  of  the  States  ^21,500,000 


Miscellaneous  Facts.  323 

and  then  funded  the  whole,  putting  a  part  on  interest  at  six  per 

cent.,  postponing  another  part  without  interest  for  ten  years,  and 

the  remainder  bearing  an  immediate  interest  at  three  per  cent. 

The  foregoing,  with  arrears  of  six  years  interest  being  added, 
and  with  some  other  unsettled  claims,  made  the  whole  debt 
amount  to  ninety-four  millions,  which  soon  went  up  to  par  ! 

The  statesmen  of  the  Revolution  were  well  disposed  to  pay 
their  paper  obligations,  and  alleged,  that  they  also  had  the  ability 
to  do  so  :  but  against  these,  stood  the  inability  of  the  people  to 
pursue  the  profitable  employments  of  peaceful  times,  and  there- 
fore their  inability  to  pay  taxes,  even  if  the  Congress  had  had  the 
power  to  impose  them.  They  could  only  recommend  the  measure 
to  the  States.  They  had  all  agreed  at  one  time  to  exact  an  impost 
of  5  per  cent.,  on  all  imported  goods,  but  Rhode  Island  resisted 
the  measure  to  the  last,  and  without  unanimity  it  could  not  be 
adopted ! 

The  campaign  of  1778  and  '79,  with  an  army  of  thirty  to  forty 
thousand  men,  was  sustained  by  emissions  of  paper  money  to  the 
amount  of  135,000,000  of  dollars.  Thus  "making  it  by  wagon 
loads !"  In  the  same  time,  the  amount  of  specie  received  into  the 
public  treasury  was  but  151,666  dollars,  a  weight  but  about  a  ton 
of  coal  if  all  put  into  a  cart  for  its  carriage  ! 

It  has  been  said  that  so  great  a  sinking  of  paper  money,  was 
not  so  injuriously  felt  among  the  people  as  might  be  imagined ; — 
and  it  has  been  reasoned  thus,  viz. :  The  largest  sum  by  which 
they  could  have  been  affected,  might  be  estimated  at  300,000,000 
at  20  for  one,  which  is  only  half  of  the  rate  fixed  by  Congress. 
This  would  give  15,000,000  of  sound  money  ;  and  this,  having 
been  a  currency  for  six  years,  gives  an  annual  average  of 
2,500,000  ;  which,  to  a  population  of  3,000,000,  would  make,  in 
point  of  fact,  a  poll  tax  of  but  about  one  dollar  to  each  ;  or  if  they 
be  estimated  by  families  of  six  persons  each,  would  be  an  annual 
loss,  to  such  severally,  of  but  five  dollars  each  !  So  easy  is  it  by 
figures  to  diminish  losses,  which  we  of  the  present  generation 
have  never  felt !  Yet  it  was  a  painful  and  onerous  loss  to  our 
forefathers,  now  all  gone  beyond  its  influence  ! 

Those  who  are  minutely  curious  on  this  matter  may  consult, 
with  profit,  a  late  paper  in  the  proceedings  of  the  Philosophical 
Society  of  Philadelphia,  by  Samuel  Breck,  Esq. 

In  the  course  of  the  use  and  depreciation  of  such  money,  it 
became  in  time  a  matter  of  fun  with  many  to  show  their  levity 
of  spirit,  at  their  loss  thereby,  by  pasting  it  up,  as  ornaments  in 
their  workshops,  and  sometimes,  by  pasting  much  of  it  together 
to  form  head  caps  and  vestments  of  it,  for  street  display,  &c.  Yet. 
poor  as  it  was  in  the  end,  it  was  for  its  time,  the  sign  of  that 
money,  wherewith  they  worked  out  their  independence.  Abun- 
dant as  it  once  was,  few  of  the  bills  are  now  to  be  found ;  and 


324 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York. 


therefore,  to  make  the  present  exhibition  of  a  bill  of  the  first 
emission,  becomes  in  itself  a  curiosity,  and  as  such  is  here  given  to 
the  inspection  of  the  reader. 


No.  1776. 


SEVEN  DOLLARS.  \ 
This  Bill  entitles  the  \ 
Bearer  to  receive  Seven  \ 
Spanish  milled  Dollar s^ 
or  the  value  thereof  in 
Gold  or  Silver,  accord- 
ing to  a  Resolution  of 
Congress,  passed  at  Phil- 
ddelphia,  November  29, 
1775. 

J.  Packer, 
R.  Tuckniss. 


SSIATOIOO  a^JLIJ^n  3HX 


— 0 


INCIDENTS   OF  THE  WAR  AT  NEW  YORK. 


-"  this  to  show 


Mankind,  the  wild  deformity  of  war!" 

New  York  city  having  been  held  during  the  term  of  the  revo- 
lution as  a  conquered  place,  and  also  as  the  chief  military  post 
of  British  rule,  it  becomes  matter  of  interest  and  curiosity  to  the 
present  generation  to  revive  and  contemplate  the  pictorial  images 
of  those  scenes  and  facts  which  our  fathers  witnessed  in  those 
days  of  peril  and  deep  emotion.     I  give  such  as  I  could  glean. 

The  spirit  of  opposition  in  us  began  before  the  revolution 
actually  opened. 

The  first  theatre  in  Beekman  street,  (now  where  stands  the 
house  No.  26,)  was  pulled  down  in  1766,  on  a  night  of  entertain- 
ment there,  by  the  citizens,  generally  called  "Liberty  Boys." 
The  cause  arose  out  of  some  offence  in  the  play,  which  was 
cheered  by  the  British  officers  present,  and  hissed  and  condemned 
by  the  mass  of  the  people.  About  the  same  time  the  people 
seized  upon  a  press  barge,  and  drew  it  through  the  streets  to  the 
Park  commons,  where  they  burnt  it. 

After  the  war  had  commenced  and  New  York  was  expected 
to  be  captured,  almost  all  the  Whig  families,  who  could  sustain 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York.  325 

the  expense,  left  their  houses  and  homes  to  seek  precarious 
refuge  where  they  could  in  the  country.  On  the  other  hand, 
after  the  city  was  possessed  by  the  British,  all  the  tory  families 
who  felt  unsafe  in  the  country  made  their  escape  into  New  York 
for  British  protection.  Painfully,  family  relations  were  broken  ; 
families  as  well  as  the  rulers  took  diflferent  sides,  and  "  Greek  met 
Greek"  in  fierce  encounter. 

Mr.  Brower,  who  saw  the  British  force  land  in  Kipp's  bay  as 
he  stood  on  the  Long  Island  heights,  says  it  was  the  most  im- 
posing sight  his  eyes  ever  beheld.  The  army  crossed  the  East 
river,  in  open  flat  boats,  filled  with  soldiers  standing  erect ;  their 
arms  all  glittering  in  the  sunbeams.  They  approached  the  Bri- 
tish fleet  in  Kipp's  bay,  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  caused  by  the 
force  of  the  tide  breaking  the  intended  line  of  boat  after  boat. 
They  all  closed  up  in  the  rear  of  the  fleet,  when  all  the  vessels 
opened  a  heavy  cannonade. 

The  British  troops,  under  Sir  Wm.  Howe,  landed,  on  Sunday 
the  15th  Sept.,  1776,  at  the  point  of  rocks  a  few  hundred  yards 
from  the  ancient  Kipp  house,  they  being  protected  in  their  land- 
ing, by  the  cannon  of  the  ships  of  war.  They  then  had  a  skir- 
mish with  the  Americans  in  the  rear  of  that  house. 

The  old  Kipp  house,  being  one  of  respectable  grandeur  in  that 
time,  and  the  family  absent  as  whigs,  was  taken  for  the  use  of 
British  officers  of  distinction.  Therein  have  dined  and  banqueted. 
Sir  Wm.  Howe,  Sir  H.  Clinton,  Lord  Percy,  Genl.  Knyphausen, 
Major  Andre,  &c.  In  1780  the  same  house  was  occupied  as  the 
quarters  of  Col.  Williams  of  the  60th  Royal  Americans — a  regi- 
ment which  had  been  raised  as  early  as  1755  for  the  old  French 
war.  It  is  remembered,  that  at  that  house,  Maj.  Andre  once  gave 
for  his  song  at  the  dinner  repast — 

"  Why,  soldiers,  why, 
Should  we  be  melancholy  boys, 
Wfiose  business  ^tis  to  die,"  &c. 

That  was  his  last  dinner  at  New  York,  and  in  ten  short  days 
thereafter,  he  was  himself  a  prisoner,  and  devoted  for  destruction 
as  a  spy  ! 

The  old  Kipp  house,  constructed  of  Holland  brick,  was  erected 
in  1641,  and  is  still  standing  as  a  remarkable  relic  of  the  past, 
and  as  having  been  owned  by  the  same  respectable  family  to  the 
present  day  !  Soon  it  must  go,  with  all  the  rest,  to  follow  the  rage 
of  innovation  and  change  !  Americans,  as  yet,  can't  consent  to 
the  perpetuity  of  old  things !  Formerly  devoted  to  the  necessary 
change  of  every  thing  around  us,  as  a  new  country  requiring 
improvement,  we  have  gone  into  the  extreme  of  making  all  things 
new,  even  after  the  time  for  making  them  is  fully  past ! 

I  shall  herein  endeavour  to  mark  the  localities  of  position  occu- 
pied by  the  British,  especially  of  residences  of  distinguished 

2  E 


326  Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York. 

officers,  and  also  of  those  suffering  prison-houses  and  hospitals 
where  our  poor  countrymen  sighed  over  their  own  and  their 
country's  wo. 

All  the  Presbyterian  churches  in  New  York  were  used  for 
military  purposes  in  some  form  or  other.  I  suspect  they  were 
deemed  more  whiggish  in  general  than  some  of  the  other  churches. 
The  clergymen  of  that  order  were  in  general  throughout  the  war, 
said  to  be  zealous  to  promote  the  cause  of  the  revolution.  The 
Methodists,  on  the  contrary,  then  few  in  number,  were  deemed 
loyalists,  chiefly  from  the  known  loyalism  of  their  founder,  Mr. 
Wesley.  Perhaps  to  this  cause  it  was  that  the  society  in  John 
street  enjoyed  so  much  indulgence  as  to  occupy  their  church  for 
Sunday  night  service,  while  the  Hessians  had  it  in  the  morning 
service  for  their  own  chaplains  and  people. 

The  British  troops  were  quartered  in  any  empty  houses  of  the 
Whigs  which  might  be  found.  Wherever  men  were  billeted, 
they  marked  it. 

The  middle  Dutch  church  in  Nassau  street,  was  used  to  impri- 
son 3000  Americans.  The  pews  were  all  gutted  out  and  used  as 
fuel.  Afterwards  they  used  it  for  the  British  cavalry,  wherein 
they  exercised  their  men,  as  a  riding  school ;  making  them  leap 
over  raised  windlasses.  At  the  same  place  they  often  picketed 
their  men,  as  a  punishment,  making  them  bear  their  weight  on 
their  toe  on  a  sharp  goad.  At  the  same  place,  while  the  prison- 
ers remained  there,  Mr.  Andrew  Mercein  told  me  he  used  to  see 
the  "  Dead  Cart"  come  every  morning,  to  bear  off  six  or  eight  of 
the  dead. 

The  old  sugar-house,  which  also  adjoined  to  this  church,  was 
filled  with  the  prisoners  taken  at  Long  Island ;  there  they  suffered 
much,  they  being  kept  in  an  almost  starved  condition. 

This  starving  proceeded  from  different  motives ;  they  wished 
to  break  the  spirit  of  the  prisoners,  and  to  cause  their  desertion, 
or  to  make  the  war  unwelcome  to  their  friends  at  home.  On  some 
occasions,  as  I  shall  herein  show,  the  British  themselves  were 
pinched  for  supplies ;  and  on  other  occasions  the  commissaries 
had  their  own  gain  to  answer,  by  withholding  what  they  could 
from  the  prisoners.  I  could  not  find,  on  inquiry,  that  Americans 
in  New  York  were  allowed  to  help  their  countrymen  unless  by 
stealth.  I  was  told  by  eye  witnesses  of  cases,  where  the  wounded 
came  crawling  to  the  openings  in  the  wall,  and  begging  only  for 
one  cup  of  water,  and  could  not  be  indulged,  the  sentinels  saying, 
"  we  are  sorry  too,  but  our  orders  have  been,  ^  suffer  no  commu- 
nication in  the  absence  of  your  officer.' " 

The  north  Dutch  church  in  William  street  was  entirely  gutted 
of  its  pews,  and  made  to  hold  two  thousand  prisoners. 

The  Quaker  meeting  in  Pearl  street  was  converted  into  an 
hospital. 

The  old  French  church  was  used  as  a  prison. 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York.  327 

Mr.  Thomas  Swords,  told  me  they  used  to  bury  the  prisoners 
on  the  mount,  then  on  the  corner  of  Grace  and  Lumber  streets.  It 
was  an  old  redoubt. 

Cunningham  was  infamous  for  his  cruelty  to  the  prisoners,  even 
depriving  them  of  life,  it  is  said,  for  the  sake  of  cheating  his  king 
and  country  by  continuing  for  a  time  to  draw  their  nominal 
rations  !  The  prisoners  at  the  Provost,  (the  present  debtors'  prison 
in  the  Park,)  were  chiefly  under  his  severity,  (my  father  among 
the  number  for  a  time.)  It  was  said  he  was  only  restrained  from 
putting  them  to  death,  five  or  six  of  them  of  a  night,  (back  of  the 
prison-yard,  where  were  also  their  graves,)  by  the  distress  of  cer- 
tain women  in  the  neighbourhood,  who,  pained  by  the  cries  for 
mercy  which  they  heard,  went  to  the  commander-in-chief,  and 
made  the  case  known,  with  entreaties  to  spare  their  lives  in  future. 
This  unfeeling  wretch,  it  is  said,  came  afterwards  to  an  ignomi- 
nious end,  being  executed  in  England,  as  was  published  in  Hall 
and  Sellers'  paper  in  Philadelphia.  It  was  there  said,  that  it  came 
out  on  the  trial  that  he  boasted  of  having  killed  more  of  the 
king's  enemies  by  the  use  of  his  0W7i  means  than  had  been 
effected  by  the  king's  arms  ! — he  having,  as  it  was  there  stated, 
used  a  preparation  of  arsenic  in  their  flour. 

Loring,  another  commissary  of  prisoners,  was  quite  another 
man,  and  had  a  pretty  good  name.  Mr.  Lennox,  the  other,  being 
now  a  resident  of  New  York,  I  forbear  any  remarks. 

There  was  much  robbing  in  the  city  by  the  soldiery  at  times. 
In  this.  Lord  Rawdon's  corps  and  the  king's  guards,  were  said 
to  have  been  pre-eminent. 

The  British  cast  up  a  line  of  entrenchments  quite  across  from 
Corlear's  Hook  to  Bunker's  Hill,  on  the  Bowery  road,  and  placed 
gates  across  the  road  there.  The  Hessians,  under  Knyphausen, 
were  encamped  on  a  mount  not  far  from  Corlear's  Hook. 

Mr.  Andrew  Mercein,  who  was  present  in  New  York  when 
most  of  the  above  mentioned  things  occurred,  has  told  me  several 
facts.  He  was  an  apprentice  with  a  baker  who  made  bread  for 
the  army,  and  states,  that  there  was  a  time  when  provisions,  even 
to  their  own  soldiery,  were  very  limited.  For  instance,  on  the 
occasion  of  the  Cork  provision  fleet  overstaying  their  time,  he  has 
dealt  out  sixpenny  loaves,  as  fast  as  he  could  hand  them,  for  "  a 
hard  half  dollar  a-piece  !"  The  baker  then  gave  ^20  a  cwt.  for 
his  flour.  They  had  to  make  oat  meal  bread  for  the  navy.  Often 
he  has  seen  7*.  a  pound  given  for  butter,  when  before  the  war  it 
was  but  2^. 

When  Cornwallis  was  in  difficulties  at  Yorktown,  and  it 
became  necessary  to  send  him  out  all  possible  help,  they  took  the 
citizens  by  constraint  and  enrolled  them  as  a  militia.  In  this  ser- 
vice Mr.  Mercein  was  also  compelled,  and  had  to  take  his  turns 
at  the  fort.  There  they  mounted  guard,  &c.  in  military  attire, 
just  lent  to  them  for  the  time,  and  required  to  be  returned.    The 


328  Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York. 

non-commissioned  officers  were  generally  chosen  as  tories,  but 
often  without  that  condition.  Mr.  Mercein's  serjeant  was  whig- 
gish  enough  to  have  surrendered  if  he  had  had  the  proper  chance. 
There  were  some  independent  companies  of  Tories  there. 

It  was  really  an  affecting  sight  to  see  the  operations  of  the 
final  departure  of  all  the  king's  embarkation ;  the  royal  band 
beat  a  farewell  march.  Then  to  see  so  many  of  our  countrymen, 
with  their  women  and  children,  leaving  the  land  of  their  fathers 
because  they  took  the  king's  side,  going  thence  to  the  bleak  and 
barren  soil  of  Nova  Scotia,  was  at  least  affecting  to  them.  Their 
hearts  said,  "  My  country,  with  all  thy  faults  I  love  thee  still." 

In  contrast  to  this,  there  followed  the  entry  of  our  cheered  and 
weather-beaten  troops,  followed  by  all  the  citizens  in  regular 
platoons. 


(( 


Oh!  one  day  of  such  a  welcome  sight, 
Were  worth  a  whole  eternity  of  lesser  years. 


Then  crowded  home  to  their  own  city,  all  those  who  had  been 
abroad,  reluctant  exiles  from  British  rule  ;  now  fondly  cherishing 
in  their  hearts,  "  this  is  my  own,  my  native  land." 

The  Hessian  troops  were  peculiarly  desirous  to  desert  so  as  to 
remain  in  our  country,  and  hid  themselves  in  every  family  where 
they  could  possibly  secure  a  friend  to  help  their  escape.  'Twas 
a  lucky  hit  for  those  who  succeeded,  for  they  generally  got  ahead 
as  tradesmen  and  farmers,  and  became  rich.  The  loss  to  Eng- 
land in  the  "  wear  and  tear"  of  those  Hessians  formed  a  heavy 
item.  It  is  on  record  that  the  Landgrave  of  Hesse  was  paid  for 
15,700  men  lost,  at  £30  a  head,  36471,000  (being  more  than  two 
millions  of  dollars) ;  paid  to  his  agent,  Mr.  Van  Otten,  at  the 
Bank  of  England,  in  1786. 

It  is  estimated  that  11,000  of  our  Americans  from  the  British 
prisons,  were  interred  at  the  Wallabout,  the  place  of  the  present 
Navy  Yard.  In  cutting  down  the  hill  for  the  Navy  Yard,  they 
took  up  as  many  as  thirteen  large  boxes  of  human  bones;  which, 
being  borne  on  trucks  under  mourning  palls,  were  carried  in  pro- 
cession to  Jackson  street  on  Brooklyn  height,  and  interred  in  a 
charnel-house  constructed  for  the  occasion,  beneath  three  great 
drooping  willows.  There  rest  the  bones  of  my  grandfather,  borne 
from  the  StromboUo's  hospital  ship  three  days  after  his  arrival. 

"  Those  prison  ships  where  pain  and  penance  dwell, 
Where  death  in  tenfold  vengeance  holds  his  reign. 
And  injur'd  ghosts  there  unaveng'd  complain." 

Two  of  the  burnt  hulks  of  those  ships  still  remain  sunken  near 
the  Navy  Yard ;  one  in  the  dock,  and  one,  the  Good  Hope,  near 
Finder's  Island — all  "  rotten  and  old,  e'er  filled  with  sighs  and 
groans." 

Our  ideas  of  prisons  and  prisoners,  having  ourselves  been  never 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York.  329 

confined,  are  too  vague  and  undefined  in  reading  of  any  given 
mass  of  suffering  men.  To  enter  into  conception  and  sympathy 
with  the  subject,  we  must  individuaUze  our  ideas  by  singling  out 
a  single  captive ;  hear  him  talk  of  his  former  friends  and  happy 
home  ;  see  him  pennyless,  naked,  friendless,  in  pain  and  sickness, 
hopeless,  sighing  for  home,  yet  wishing  to  end  his  griefs  by  one 
last  deep  sigh.  With  Sterne's  pathos,  see  him  notch  his  weary 
days  and  nights ;  see  the  iron  enter  his  soul ;  see  him  dead  ;  then 
whelmed  in  pits,  neglected  and  forgotten.  Such  was  the  tale,  if 
individually  told,  of  11,000  of  our  suffering  countrymen  at  New 
York. 

•  In  February  1781,  David  Sprout,  commissary  of  naval  pri- 
soners, puts  forth  a  letter  to  Abraham  Skinner,  the  American 
commissary  of  prisoners,  wherein  he  endeavours  to  palliate  and 
exculpate  the  British  from  alleged  severity  and  cruelty  to  prisoners 
at  New  York ;  he  says  he  put  up  bills  in  the  ships  to  tell  each 
man  his  allowance  "  of  good,  sound,  wholesome  provisions,"  and 
begged  their  own  officers  to  see  them  attended  to.  The  sick  and 
(Jying  on  board  the  Jersey,  proceeded,  he  says,  from  their  own  dirt, 
nastiness,  and  want  of  clothing — says  that  in  the  Good  Hope,  a 
bulk  head  by  his  orders  was  made,  so  as  to  berth  the  officers  abaft 
and  the  men  before  it,  and  two  large  stoves  were  furnished — that 
to  the  hospital  ship,  the  same  equipment  was  made,  and  every  sick 
or  wounded  person  furnished  with  a  candle  and  bedding,  and 
surgeons  were  appointed  to  take  care  of  them ;  after  which,  "  the 
prisoners  maliciously  and  wickedly  burnt  this  best  prison  ship  in 
the  world."  He  adds  that  he  has  offered  to  exchange  prisoners 
man  for  man,  but  the  Congress,  he  says,  requires  first  the  return 
to  America  of  such  prisoners  as  had  been  taken  on  the  coast,  and 
sent  to  England.  One  is  glad  to  see  even  such  a  show  of  huma- 
nity as  the  letter  plausibly  enough  set  forth ;  nevertheless  the 
men  suffered,  died,  and  were  whelmed  in  pits  to  the  number  of 
11,000  !     This  speaks  loudest  and  bitterest. 

Our  officers  had  far  better  fare ;  they  had  money  or  credit ; 
could  look  about  and  provide  for  themselves :  could  contrive  to 
make  themselves  half  gay  and  sportive  occasionally.  Capt.  Gray- 
don  of  Philadelphia,  who  has  left  us  amusing  and  instructive 
memoirs  of  sixty  years  of  his  observing  life,  having  been  among 
the  officers  and  men  (2,000)  captured  at  Fort  Washington  near 
New  York,  and  held  prisoners,  has  left  us  many  instructive  pages 
concerning  the  incidents  at  New  York  while  held  by  the  British, 
which  ought  to  be  read  by  all  those  who  can  feel  any  interest  in 
such  domestic  history  as  I  have  herein  endeavoured  to  preserve. 

Having  thus  introduced  Capt.  Graydon  to  the  reader,  I  shall 
conclude  this  article  with  sundry  observations  and  remarks  de- 
rived from  him,  to  wit : — 

After  our  capture  (says  he,)  we  were  committed,  men  and  offi- 
cers, to  the  custody  of  young  and  insolent  officers;  we  were 
42  2e2 


330  Incidents  of  the  War  at  Neiv  York. 

again  and  again  taunted  as  "  cursed  rebels,"  and  that  we  should 
all  be  hanged.  Repeatedly  we  were  paraded,  and  every  now  and 
then  one  and  another  of  us  W£ls  challenged  among  our  officers  as 
deserters;  affecting  thereby  to  consider  their  common  men  as  good 
enough  for  our  ordinary  subaltern  officers.  Unfortunately  for 
our  pride  and  self-importance,  among  those  so  challenged  was 
here  and  there  a  subject  fitted  to  their  jibes  and  jeers.  A  little 
squat  militia  officer,  from  York  county,  with  dingy  clothes  the 
worse  for  wear,  was  questioned  with  "  What,  sir,  is  your  rank  ?" 
when  he  answered  in  a  chuif  and  firm  tone,  "  a  keppun  sir  ;" 
an  answer  producing  an  immoderate  laugh  among  "  the  haughty 
Britons."  There  was  also  an  unlucky  militia  trooper  of  the  same 
school,  with  whom  the  officers  were  equally  merry,  obliging  him 
to  amble  about  for  their  entertainment  on  his  old  jade,  with  his 
odd  garb  and  accoutrements.  On  being  asked  what  were  his 
duties,  he  simply  answered,  "  it  was  to  flank  a  little  and  bear 
tidings."  It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  there  were,  at  the 
same  time,  several  gentlemen  of  the  army  into  whose  hands  he 
afterwards  fell,  or  with  whom  he  had  intercourse,  who  were  alto- 
gether gentlemanly  in  their  deportment  and  feelings. 

At  this  beginning  period  of  the  war,  most  things  on  the  Ameri- 
can side  were  coarse  and  rough.  Maryland  and  Philadelphia 
county  put  forward  young  gentlemen  as  officers  of  gallant  bearing 
and  demeanor ;  but  New  England,  and  this,  then  seat  of  war, 
was  very  deficient  in  such  material.  In  many  cases  subaltern 
officers  at  least  could  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  their  men 
other  than  by  their  cockades.  It  was  not  uncommon  for  colonels 
to  make  drummers  and  fifers  of  their  sons.  Among  such  the  eye 
looked  around  in  vain  for  the  leading  gentry  of  the  country. 
Gen.  Putnam  could  be  seen  riding  about  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  with 
his  hanger  over  his  open  vest :  and  Col.  Putnam,  his  nephew, 
did  not  disdain  to  carry  his  own  piece  of  meat,  saying,  as  his  ex- 
cuse, "  it  will  show  our  officers  a  good  lesson  of  humility."  On 
the  whole  Capt.  Graydon  says,  "  I  have  in  vain  endeavoured  to 
account  for  the  very  few  gentlemen,  and  men  of  the  world,  that 
at  this  time  appeared  in  3xmsfro7n  this  country,  which  might 
be  considered  as  the  cradle  of  the  revolution.  There  was  here 
and  there  a  young  man  of  decent  breeding  in  the  capacity  of  an 
aide-de-camp  or  brigade  major;  but  any  thing  above  the  con- 
dition of  a  clown  in  the  regiments  we  came  in  contact  with,  was 
truly  a  rarity."  Perhaps  the  reason  was,  that  when  the  people 
had  the  choice  of  their  officers,  they  chose  only  their  equals  or 
comrades.  A  letter  of  Gen.  Washington  to  Gen.  Lee,  makes 
himself  merry  with  such  mean  officers  ;  and  Gen.  Schuyler,  who 
was  of  manly  and  lofty  port,  was  actually  rejected  for  that  reason 
by  the  New  England  troops  as  their  commander.  [Vide  Mar- 
shalPs  Washington.]     Even  the   Declaration  of  Independence, 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York.  331 

when  read  about  this  time  at  the  head  of  the  armies,  did  not  receive 
the  most  hearty  acclamations,  though  ostensibly  cheered  for  the 
sake  of  a  favourable  report  to  the  world.  Some  under  voices 
were  heard  to  mutter,  "  now  we  have  done  for  ourselves."  It 
was  a  fact,  too,  that  at  this  crisis  whiggism  declined  among  the 
higher  classes,  and  their  place  was  seemingly  filled  up  by  numbers 
of  inferior  people,  who  were  sufficiently  glad  to  show  uniforms 
and  epaulettes  as  gentlemen  who  had  never  been  so  regarded 
before. 

As  the  prisoners  were  marched  into  the  city,  they  disparagingly 
contrasted  with  their  British  guard.  Our  men  had  begun  to  be 
ragged,  or  were  in  thread-bare  flimsy  garments  ;  whereas  every 
thing  on  the  British  soldier  was  whole  and  complete.  On  the 
road  they  were  met  by  soldiers,  trulls,  and  others,  come  out  from 
the  city  to  see  "  the  great  surrender  of  the  rebel  army.''  Every 
eye  and  every  person  was  busy  in  seeking  out  "  Mr.  Washing- 
ton." There  he  is,  cried  half  a  dozen  voices  at  once.  Others 
assailed  them  with  sneers.  When  near  the  city,  the  officers  were 
separated  from  the  men,  and  conducted  into  a  church,  into  which 
crowded  a  number  of  city  spectators.  There  the  officers  signed 
paroles,  and  were  permitted  afterwards  to  take  their  lodgings  in 
the  city.  The  men  were  confined  in  churches  and  sugar-houses, 
where  they  suffered  much. 

The  number  of  American  officers  who  were  thus  brought  into 
New  York  was  considerable,  and  many  of  them  boarded  together 
at  Mrs.  Carroll's,  in  Queen  street,  a  winning  cheerful  lady,  who 
had  enough  of  influence  and  acquaintance  with  Col.  Robertson, 
the  commandant  of  the  city,  to  get  hold  of  a  good  deal  of  news 
calculated  to  interest  and  serve  her  lodgers.  In  the  city  at  this 
time  were  such  American  officers  as  Colonels  Magaw,  Miles, 
Atlee,  Allen,  Rawlins,  &c. ;  Majors  West,  Williams,  Burd,  De^ 
Courcey,  &c. ,  and  Captains  Wilson,  Tudor,  Davenport,  Forrest, 
Edwards,  Lennox,  Herbert,  &c. 

Such  officers  took  full  latitude  of  their  parole,  in  traversing  the 
streets  in  all  directions  with  a  good  deal  of  purposed  assurance. 
One  of  them,  on  one  occasion,  wearing  his  best  uniform,  to  the 
great  gaze  and  wonderment  of  many,  actually  ventured  disdain- 
fully to  pass  the  Coffee  House,  then  the  general  resort  of  the 
British  officers.  At  other  times,  when  the  Kolch  water  was 
frozen  over,  and  was  covered  with  British  officers,  who  thought 
themselves  proficients  in  skating,  it  was  the  malicious  pleasure  of 
some  of  our  officers  to  appear  and  eclipse  them  all.  The  officers 
occasionally  met  with  cordial  civilities  and  genteel  entertainment 
from  British  officers  with  whom  they  came  in  contact ;  for,  in 
truth,  the  latter  valued  their  personal  gentility  too  much  to  seem 
to  be  in  any  degree  deficient  in  politeness  and  courtesy  when  they 
met  with  those  whom  they  thought  sufficiently  polished  to  appre- 


332  Incidents  of  the   War  at  New  York. 

ciate  their  demeanor.  Yet  it  was  obviously  the  system  of  the 
British  army  to  treat  them  as  persons  with  whom  to  maintain  an 
intercourse  would,  on  their  part,  be  both  criminal  and  degrading. 

Our  officers,  it  seems,  but  rarely  visited  their  countrymen-pri- 
soners, saying,  as  their  reason,  "  to  what  purpose  repeat  our  visits 
to  these  abodes  of  misery  and  despair,  when  they  had  neither 
relief  to  administer  nor  comfort  to  bestow.  They  rather  chose  to 
turn  the  eye  from  a  scene  they  could  not  ameliorate."  It  was  not 
without  remark,  too,  that  there  was  an  impediment  to  their  release 
by  exchange  maintained  by  the  American  rulers  themselves,  who 
were  either  unable  or  unwilling  to  sustain  a  direct  exchange, 
because  they  foresaw  that  the  British  soldiers,  when  released, 
would  immediately  form  new  combatants  against  them ;  whereas 
our  own  men,  especially  of  the  militia,  were  liable  to  fail  back  into 
non-combatants,  and  perhaps,  withal,  dispirit  the  chance  of  new 
levies.  Perhaps  the  stoical  virtues  of  the  rigorous  times  made 
apathy  in  such  a  cause  the  less  exceptionable.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  British  wished  the  prisoners  to  apostatize;  and  nothing  was 
so  likely  to  influence  defection  as  the  wish  to  escape  from  sick- 
ness and  starvation. 

Dr.  D  wight  has  told  us  of  his  observations  on  the  incidents  of 
the  war,  as  he  had  witnessed  them  near  the  lines,  in  the  year 
1777.  The  lines  of  the  British  were  at  King's  bridge,  and  those 
of  the  Americans  at  Byram's  river.  The  inhabitants  were  exposed 
to  depredations  from  both  sides,  and  were  often  plundered,  and 
always  liable  to  exactions.  They  in  fact  feared  all  whom  they 
saAV,  and  loved  nobody. 

It  was  a  curious  fact  to  a  philosopher,  and  a  melancholy  one 
to  a  moralist,  to  hear  their  conversation.  To  every  question,  they 
gave  such  an  answer,  as  would  please  the  inquirer ;  or  if  they 
despaired  of  pleasing,  such  an  one  as  would  not  provoke  him. 
Fear  being  apparently  the  moving  passion  in  all  they  did  or  said. 

They  were  not  civil  but  obsequious;  not  obliging  but  sub- 
servient. They  yielded  with  a  kind  of  apathy,  and  very  quietly 
gave  what  you  asked.  If  you  treated  them  kindly,  they  received 
it  coldly ;  not  as  kindness,  but  as  a  compensation  for  injuries 
done  them  by  others. 

Their  houses,  in  the  mean  time,  bore  the  marks  of  injury  and 
neglect.  Their  furniture  was  extensively  plundered,  or  broken  in 
pieces.  The  walls,  floors,  and  windows  were  out  of  order,  both 
by  violence  and  neglect ;  and  they  were  not  repaired  because 
they  had  not  the  means  to  pay,  and  besides,  they  knew  not  how 
soon  they  might  be  again  injured.  Their  cattle  were  gone.  Their 
enclosures  were  burnt,  or  if  not  of  materials  for  fuel,  they  were 
thrown  down.  Their  fields  were  covered  with  a  rank  growth  of 
weeds  and  wild  grass.  The  great  road  leading  from  New  York 
to  Boston,  which  had  once  been  all  life  and  bustle,  with  horses 


Incidents  of  the   War  at  New  York.  333 

and  carriages  thereon,  was  become  all  solitary,  unless  occasionally- 
animated  with  the  presence  of  a  scouting  party,  or  when  some 
few  of  a  family  might  be  seen  moving  stealthily  to  visit  some 
suffering  neighbour  or  relative. 

Such  a  picture  of  the  miseries  and  desolations  of  war,  though 
but  rarely  told,  is  but  a  common  picture  of  facts  in  similar  cases, 
in  the  progress  of  the  revolutionary  war.  There  was  indeed  less 
of  such  evils  around  Philadelphia,  but  in  the  southern  states,  the 
actual  evils  were  greater ;  and  in  Virginia  along  the  seaboard, 
and  up  James  and  York  rivers,  the  whole  country  was  lastingly 
injured  by  the  stealing  and  enticement  away  of  their  negro  popu- 
lation. The  fields  lay  uncultivated,  houses  decayed,  and  where 
the  plantations  were  once  fruitful  and  the  inhabitants  prosperous, 
the  whole  land  mourned,  and  became  comparatively  waste.  At 
the  same  time  a  very  obvious  change  for  the  worse,  came  over 
the  manners  and  morals  of  the  people. 

In  New  York,  in  Oct.,  1776,  was  seen  such  a  fleet  of  armed 
and  transport  Britons,  as  was  never  seen  together  in  that  port,  or 
in  any  part  of  America !  The  ships  were  stationed  up  the  East 
river  as  far  as  Turtle  bay  ;  and  near  the  town,  the  multitude  of 
masts  carried  the  appearance  of  a  wood.  Some  were  also  moored 
up  the  North  river,  others  in  the  bay,  between  Red  and  Yellow 
Hook  ;  some  again  were  off  Staten  Island,  and  several  off  Powles 
Hook,  towards  the  kills.  The  men  of  war  were  moored  chiefly 
up  New  York  sound,  and  made  with  the  other  ships,  a  most  im- 
posing and  magnificent  impression  of  power  and  naval  glory.  We 
have  but  little  or  just  sense  of  the  stout  hearts  of  the  revolution, 
who  could  venture  then  to  resist  so  overwhelming  an  exhibition 
of  power  ready  to  subdue  us  ! 

The  British,  when  speaking  of  the  conflagration  of  the  city, 
imputed  it  to  the  Americans  themselves,  calling  it  "  the  savage 
burning  of  the  city  by  the  New  England  incendiaries;"  and 
saying, "  they  had  long  threatened  the  performance  of  this  villan- 
ous  deed."  The  Philadelphians  had  an  idea,  those  that  remained, 
that  their  city  was  also  to  be  burned  on  the  approach  of  the 
British  there,  and  to  quiet  their  apprehensions.  Gen.  Putnam  had  to 
put  forth  a  declaration,  that  no  such  purpose  was  intended  by  him. 

Gen.  Washington,  it  has  been  said,  was  himself,  favourable  to 
the  burning  of  New  York  city,  as  a  useful  means  of  annoying 
the  enemy. 

In  June,  1776,  a  conspiracy  was  said  to  have  been  detected  in 
New  York,  conducted  by  tories,  to  murder  all  the  staff  officers, 
including  Gen.  Washington,  and  to  blow  up  the  magazines,  &c. 
The  mayor  of  the  city  was  said  to  be  concerned,  and  confined, 
also  Gilbert  Forbes,  a  gunsmith,  &c.  It  was  said  that  Gov.  Tryon, 
then  on  board  the  fleet,  was  the  prompter  and  paymaster.  A 
soldier  of  Washington's  guard  was  executed  in  the  fields  near  the 


334  Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York, 

Bowery  lane,  for  his  participation  in  this  matter,  and  the  published 
account  of  this  affair  in  Town's  Philadelphia  Evening  Post, 
added,  that "  more  are  expected  to  be  executed  !" 

Whilst  the  General  held  command  in  that  city,  he  held  his 
head  quarters  at  or  near  Richmond  Hill. 

The  large  hotel  at  the  corner  of  Broad  and  Pearl  streets,  was 
the  place  in  which  Gen.  Washington  first  dined  on  entering  New 
York,  at  the  termination  of  the  war.  It  was  then  kept  by  Saml. 
Fraunces,  a  dark  coloured  Frenchman,  who  had  before  kept 
Vauxhall  Garden,  and  who,  after  the  peace,  kept  the  Indian 
Queen  hotel  in  Philadelphia. 

We  give  in  this  work,  a  peculiarly  striking  likeness  of  Gen. 
Washington,  such  as  he  appeared  when  president.  It  was  taken 
at  Philadelphia,  by  S.  Folwell,  a  miniature  painter  there,  who  had 
done  it  for  his  own  satisfaction  and  preservation.  It  was  to  me 
quite  a  discovery  to  have  lately  got  the  original  from  which  the 
profile  here  given  has  been  accurately  copied.  Competent  judges 
have  deemed  it  the  most  spirited  and  true  to  the  life,  of  anything 
ever  attempted.     It  is  the  man  as  he  was  ! 

What  makes  it  the  more  remarkable  is,  that  it  was  done  from 
observation,  at  a  time,  when  the  president  himself  was  not  aware 
of  it.  It  W8LS  a  happy  hit,  and  therefore  a  suitable  curiosity  for 
this  work. 

Bunker  Hill,  at  New  York,  has  been  described  in  a  London 
magazine  of  1781,  saying  it  was  so  called  by  the  Americans;  it 
being,  in  the  revolution,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  out  of  town ;  a 
hill  with  a  fort  upon  it.  The  Americans  then  "  had  a  line  of 
redoubts  a  little  out  of  New  York,  extending  across  the  island, 
from  the  East  to  the  North  river,"  but  they  were  not  used  by  the 
British.  "  The  British  had  their  defences  on  the  island,  thus : 
coming  from  Kingsbridge  on  the  heights  which  overhung  it,  stood 
Charles  redoubt,  but  their  chief  defence  began  on  the  brow  of 
Laurel  hill,  on  which  were  batteries  over  batteries,  close  by  the 
narrow  path,  the  only  pass  too,  so  that  their  cannon  could  destroy 
everything  approaching  from  the  main  land.  Next  comes  Fort 
Washington,  called  Knyphausen  afterwards  by  the  British,  next 
is  McGowan's  pass,  where  a  few  troops  could  stop  an  army.  The 
fort  at  the  point  was  then  a  square  with  four  bastions,  and  within 
it  was  the  governor's  house.  Below  the  walls,  on  the  water's 
edge,  was  a  line  of  fortifications,  the  batteries  made  of  stone,  and 
the  merlons  of  cedar  joists,  filled  with  earth.  They  mounted 
ninety-two  cannon.  In  the  year  1776,  when  the  PhcEnix  and 
Rose  frigates  pushed  up  the  North  river,  the  Americans  made  a 
tremendous  fire  from  this  battery,  and  the  others  along  the  North 
river,  from  as  many  as  two  hundred  cannons." 

Sir  Henry  Clinton,  while  at  New  York,  "  had  no  less  than  four 
houses ;  he  being  quite  a  monopolizer.     At  times,  when  viaible, 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York,  335 

he  is  seen  riding  full  tilt  to  and  from  his  different  seats.     In  this, 
he  was  the  ape  of  royalty." 

The  same  magazine  says,  "  now  when  almost  every  disaster 
has  occurred  to  us,  we  may  probably  have  Sir  Henry  Clinton  at 
home.  He  allows  Washington  to  environ  him  with  his  inferior 
force !  As  Howe  lost  us  Burgoyne,  he  has  lost  us  Lord  Corn- 
wallis !" 

"On  Sept.  15,  1776,  the  British  army  embarked  at  Newton 
creek,  (Long  Island,)  and  landed  at  Kipp's  bay.  Then  the 
Americans  evacuated  New  York.  As  Gen.  Vaughan  was  ascend- 
ing the  heights  of  Inclenberg,  he  was  wounded  in  the  thigh.  At 
that  time.  Gen.  Howe  encamped  with  his  right  at  Horen's  Hook, 
and  his  left  at  Bloomingdale.  The  Americans  then  posted  them- 
selves at  Fort  Washington  and  Kingsbridge." 

"  Admiral  Graves,  who  ought  to  have  been  ready  to  go  out  to 
meet  De  Grasse,  had  his  vessel  to  prepare.^^  "  Sir  H.  Chnton 
has  always  been  too  indecisive  and  unsettled,  although  he  had 
12,000  regulars  and  6000  able  militia.  But  Washington  and 
Rochambeau  knew  his  character  well  when  they  crossed  the 
Croton  and  North  rivers,  and  did  their  business  effectually  by 
showing  themselves  one  morning  near  Kingsbridge,  and  sending 
the  French  baker  boys  round  to  the  mouth  of  the  Raritan  to  pre- 
tend there  to  raise  a  bakery  for  the  French  army  !  This  was  enough 
to  cause  him  to  send  off  to  Corn  wallis  at  York,  to  demand  his  aid  !" 

Facts  of  Prison  Ships,  Brooklyn.  We  are  indebted  to  some 
notitia,  made  by  J.  Johnson,  Esq.,  of  Brooklyn,  for  sundry  facts 
concerning  Brooklyn  and  the  prison  ships,  viz.  "  From  printed 
journals,  published  at  New  York  at  the  close  of  the  war,  it 
appeared  that  11,500  American  prisoners  had  died  aboard  the 
prison  ships.  Although  this  number  is  very  great,  still,  if  the 
number  who  perished  had  been  less,  the  commissary  of  naval 
prisoners,  David  Sprout,  Esq.,  and  his  deputy,  had  it  in  their 
power,  by  an  official  return,  to  give  the  true  number  taken, 
exchanged,  escaped,  or  dead.  Such  a  return  has  never  appeared 
in  the  United  States. 

"  David  Sprout  returned  to  America  after  the  war,  and  resided 
in  Philadelphia,  where  he  died.  The  commissary  could  not 
have  been  ignorant  of  the  statement  published  here,  on  this 
interesting  subject.  We  may,  therefore,  infer  that  about  that 
number—  11,500,  perished  in  the  prison  ships. 

"  A  large  transport,  named  the  Whitby,  was  the  first  prison 
ship  anchored  in  the  Wallabout.  She  was  moored  near  "  Rem- 
sen's  mill,"  about  the  20th  October,  1776  ;  and  was  then  crowded 
with  prisoners.  Many  landsmen  were  prisoners  on  board  this 
vessel ;  she  was  said  to  be  the  most  sickly  of  all  the  prison  ships. 
Bad  provisions,  bad  water,  and  scanty  rations,  were  dealt  to  the 
prisoners.  No  medical  men  attended  the  sick.  Diseases  reigned 
unrelieved,  and  hundreds  died  from  pestilence,  or  were  starved, 


336         .       Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York. 

on  board  this  floating  prison.  I  saw  the  sand  beach,  between  a 
ravine  in  the  hill  and  Mr.  Remsen's  dock,  become  filled  with 
graves  in  the  course  of  two  months  ;  and  before  the  first  of  May, 
1777,  the  ravine,  alluded  to,  was  itself  occupied  in  the  same  way. 

"  In  the  month  of  May,  1 777,  two  large  ships  were  anchored 
in  the  Wallabout,  when  the  prisoners  were  transferred  from  the 
Whitby  to  them ;  these  vessels  were  also  very  sickly,  from  the 
causes  before  stated.  Although  many  prisoners  were  sent  on 
board  of  them,  and  none  exchanged,  death  made  room  for  all. 

"  On  a  Sunday  afternoon,  about  the  middle  of  October,  1777, 
one  of  the  prison  ships  was  burnt :  the  prisoners,  except  a  few, 
who  it  was  said,  were  burnt  in  the  vessel,  Avere  removed  to  the 
remaining  ship.  It  was  reported,  at  the  time,  that  the  prisoners 
had  fired  their  prison — which,  if  true,  proves  that  they  preferred 
death,  even  by  fire,  to  the  lingering  sufferings  of  pestilence  and 
starvation. 

"In  the  month  of  February,  1778,  the  remaining  prison  ship 
was  burnt  at  night ;  when  the  prisoners  were  removed  from  her 
to  the  ships,  then  wintering  in  the  Wallabout. 

"  In  the  month  of  April,  1778,  the  old  Jersey  was  moored  in  the 
Wallabout,  and  all  the  prisoners  (except  the  sick)  were  transferred 
to  her. — The  sick  were  carried  to  two  hospital  ships,  named  the 
Hope  and  Falmouth,  anchored  near  each  other,  about  200  yards 
east  from  the  Jersey.  These  ships  remained  in  the  Wallabout 
until  New  York  was  evacuated  by  the  British.  The  Jersey  was 
the  receiving  ship — the  others  truly  the  ships  of  Death  ! 

"  It  has  been  generally  thought  that  all  the  prisoners  died  on 
board  the  Jersey.  This  is  not  true :  many  may  have  died  on 
board  of  her,  who  were  not  reported  as  sick ;  but  all  the  men 
who  were  placed  on  the  sick  list  were  removed  to  the  hospital 
ships,  from  which  they  were  usually  taken  sewed  up  in  a  blanket, 
to  their  long  home. 

"  After  the  hospital  ships  were  brought  into  the  Wallabout  it 
was  reported  that  the  sick  were  attended  by  physicians ;  few, 
very  few,  however,  recovered.  It  was  no  uncommon  thing  to 
see  five  or  six  dead  bodies  brought  on  shore  in  a  single  morning ; 
when  a  small  excavation  would  be  dug  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
the  bodies  cast  in,  and  a  man  with  a  shovel  would  cover  them, 
by  shovelling  sand  down  the  hill  upon  them.  Many  were  buried 
in  a  ravine  of  the  hill ;  some  on  the  farm.  The  whole  shore, 
from  Rennies  Point  to  Mr.  Remsen's  door-yard  was  a  place  of 
graves ;  as  were  also  the  slope  of  the  hill,  near  the  house  ;  the 
shore,  from  Mr.  Remsen's  barn  along  the  mill  pond  to  Rappleye's 
farm ;  and  the  sandy  island,  between  the  flood-gates  and  the  mill 
dam  :  while  a  few  were  buried  on  the  shore  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Wallabout.  Thus  did  Death  reign  here,  from  1776,  until  the 
peace.  The  whole  Wallabout  was  a  sickly  place  during  the  war. 
'J'hc  atmosphere  seemed  to  be  charged  with  foul  air  from  the 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  York,  337 

prison  ships,  and  with  the  effluvia  of  the  dead  bodies,  washed  out 
of  their  graves  by  the  tides. 

"  We  beheve  that  more  than  half  of  the  dead  buried  on  the 
outer  side  of  the  mill  pond  were  washed  out  by  the  waves  at 
high  tide,  during  north-easterly  winds.  The  bones  of  the  dead 
lay  exposed  along  the  beach  drying  and  bleaching  in  the  sun,  and 
whitening  the  shore  ;  till  reached  by  the  power  of  a  succeeding 
storm,  as  the  agitated  waters  receded,  the  bones  receded  with 
them  into  the  deep — where  they  remain,  unseen  by  man,  await- 
ing the  resurrection  morn  J  when  again  joined  to  the  spirits  to 
which  they  belong,  they  will  meet  their  persecuting  murderers  at 
the  bar  of  the  Supreme  Judge  of  '  the  quick  and  the  dead.' 

"  We  have  ourselves  examined  many  of  the  skulls  lying  on 
the  shore.  From  the  teeth  they  appeared  to  have  been  the 
remains  of  men  in  the  prime  of  life. 

"  The  prisoners  confined  in  the  Jersey,  had  secretly  obtained 
a  crow-bar,  which  was  kept  concealed  in  the  berth  of  some  confi- 
dential officer,  among  the  prisoners.  The  bar  was  used  to  break 
off  the  port  gratings.  This  was  done,  in  windy  nights,  when  good 
swimmers  were  ready  to  leave  the  ship  for  the  land :  in  this  way 
a  number  escaped. 

"  Capt.  Doughty,  a  friend  of  the  writer,  had  charge  of  the  bar 
when  he  was  a  prisoner  on  board  of  the  Jersey,  and  effected  his 
escape  by  its  means.  When  he  left  the  ship  he  gave  the  bar  to  a 
confidant  to  be  used  for  the  relief  of  others.  Very  few  who  left 
the  ship  were  retaken :  they  knew  where  to  find  friends  to  conceal 
them,  and  to  help  them  beyond  pursuit. 

"  A  singularly  daring  and  successful  escape  was  effected  from 
the  Jersey,  about  four  o'clock  one  afternoon,  in  the  beginning  of 
December,  1780.  The  best  boat  of  the  ship  had  returned  from 
New  York,  between  three  and  four  o'clock,  and  was  left  fastened 
at  the  gangway,  with  her  oars  on  board.  The  afternoon  was 
stormy  5  the  wind  blew  from  the  north-east,  and  the  tide  ran 
flood.  A  watch  word  was  given,  and  a  number  of  prisoners 
placed  themselves,  carelessly,  between  the  ship's  waist  and  the 
sentinel :  at  this  juncture  four  eastern  captains  got  on  board  the 
boat,  which  was  cast  off  by  their  friends.  The  boat  passed  close 
under  the  bows  of  the  ship,  and  was  a  considerable  distance  from 
her  before  the  sentinel  on  the  forecastle  gave  the  alarm,  and  fired 
at  her.  The  second  boat  was  manned  for  a  chase  :  she  pursued 
in  vain ;  one  man  from  her  bow  fired  several  shots  at  the  boat, 
and  a  few  guns  were  fired  at  her  from  the  Bushwick  shore  ; 
but  all  to  no  effect — the  boat  passed  Hell-gate  in  the  evening,  and 
arrived  safe  in  Connecticut  next  morning. 

"  A  spring  of  the  writer  was  a  favourite  watering  place  for  the 

British  shipping.     The  water  boat  of  the  Jersey  watered  from 

the  spring  daily,  when  it  could  be  done."     Our  prisoners  were 

usually  brought  on  shore  to  fill  the  casks,  attended  by  a  guard. 

43  2  F 


338  Incidents  of  the   War  at  New  York, 

The  prisoners  were  frequently  permitted  to  come  to  the  house  to 
get  milk  and  food ;  and  often  brought  letters  privately  from  the 
ship.     By  these  the  sufferings  on  board  were  revealed. 

"  Supplies  of  vegetables  were  frequently  collected  by  Mr. 
Remsen,  (the  benevolent  owner  of  the  mill,)  for  the  prisoners ; 
and  small  sums  of  money  were  sent  on  board  by  the  writer's 
father  to  his  friends,  by  means  of  these  watering  parties." 

New  York  Prisons  and  Prison  Ships.  The  numerous  prison- 
ers taken  at  Long  Island  and  at  Fort  Washington,  brought  a 
great  and  sudden  accession  of  American  sufferers  to  the  city. 
These  filled  the  common  prison,  the  hospital,  the  college,  the 
churches,  and  sugar-houses.  The  Pennsylvanians  who  were  then 
captured,  thought  they  were  sacrificed  too  readily  to  the  jealousy 
of  the  eastern  men  !  The  Quaker  meeting-house  in  Pearl  street, 
was  used  as  an  hospital.  "  In  the  gloomy,  terrific  abode,  (the 
Provost  prison,)  says  Mr.  Pintard,  were  confined  many  American 
officers  and  citizens  of  distinction,  as  well  as  common  men,  waiting 
with  sickening  hope  and  tantalizing  expectation,  the  protracted 
period  of  their  exchange  or  liberation."  It  was  the  practice  of 
Captain  Cunningham,  (the  Irish  bully,)  to  give  them  the  worst  of 
provisions,  in  lieu  of  good  ones,  and  to  put  the  difference  of  value 
in  his  own  pocket ! — making  himself  rich  on  the  woes  of  others. 

The  sufferers  in  the  prison  ships  fared  still  worse  ;  they  were 
chiefly  under  the  charge  of  Lorhig,  a  refugee  from  Boston,  and 
one  David  Sprout,  a  Scotchman,  and  a  couple  of  assistants.  The 
severities  they  meted  out  to  the  poor  prisoners,  is  feelingly  told 
in  a  scarce  publication,  by  the  Rev.  Thos.  Andros,  who  when  a 
youth,  was  in  a  privateersman  out  of  New  London.  He  had 
been  in  the  old  Jersey  with  1200  prisoners  at  a  time,  and  he  sup- 
poses that  1 1,000  must  have  perished  from  her  hulk,  of  dysentery, 
small-pox,  and  yellow  fever.  Near  her  were  two  hospital  ships, 
so  crowded  that  they  could  receive  no  more,  and  therefore  the 
sick  and  the  healthy  had  to  remain  together.  From  such  a  place, 
there  was  no  hope  of  escape  with  life,  but  by  money  ;  those  who 
could  find  means  to  bribe  the  under  officers  in  charge,  could 
readily  find  men  as  treacherous  to  their  trusts,  as  inhuman  to 
the  sufferers.  Another  published  account  of  their  sufferings, 
appeared  in  the  Connecticut  Journal  of  30th  January,  1777, 
written  by  a  sufferer,  who  saw  and  felt  by  his  own  experience  all 
those  evils,  so  touchingly  depicted  of  the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta. 

American  Prisoners  in  New  York.  In  the  month  of  December, 
1777,  the  various  receptacles  of  prisoners  in  New  York,  disgorged 
their  wretched  contents.  A  large  portion  of  those  released  were 
sent  into  the  adjacent  country  to  seek  relief  where  they  could  find 
it.  A  number  of  them  were  so  debilitated  by  famine  and  disease, 
that  they  fell  down  and  died  in  the  streets  of  New  York,  before 
they  could  reach  the  vessels  at  the  water  side,  in  which  they 
were  to  have  been  passed  over  to  Jersey.     When  they  were 


Incidents  of  the   fVar  at  New  York,  339 

landed,  a  considerable  part  of  them  were  sent  forward  in  wagons, 
as  being  unable  to  travel  on  foot.  Those  who  were  able  to  walk, 
followed  the  wagons ;  and  such  another  company  of  miserable 
human  beings,  pallid,  emaciated,  begrimed  with  dirt  and  smoke, 
and  in  every  way  squalid  in  the  extreme,  the  eye  of  man  has 
seldom  beheld.  Such  was  the  description  which  I  had  from  a 
clergyman  of  Paterson,  N.  J.,  who  saw  them  when  a  boy,  and 
who  saw  a  dozen  of  the  poor  sufferers  laid  down  at  his  father's 
door,  to  engage  his  humanity  in  their  keeping.  In  such  a  caravan 
of  suffercjrs,  my  own  father,  came  home  from  the  New  York 
Provost,  but  carrying  health  and  determined  spirit.* 

It  has  always  been  to  me  a  strange  and  unexplained  thing, 
why  the  American  families,  in  New  York,  did  not  do  more  than 
they  did  for  the  prisoners,  while  the  British  merchants  in  London 
subscribed  twenty  thousand  dollars  for  the  American  prisoners  in 
England.  We  hear  nothing  of  similar  doings  by  New  Yorkers 
at  home  !  They  could  not  have  been  all  tories,  and  all  hard- 
hearted, and  yet  somehow  they  were  sadly  neglected. 

The  British  Fleet  in  the  North  river  at  New  York,  were 
driven  off  in  great  haste  by  a  sub-marine  explosion,  produced 
under  the  Asia  man  of  war,  by  the  skill  and  enterprise  of  two 
clever  Connecticut  men. 

Mr.  Bushnell  of  Saybrook  invented  it,  and  Captain  Ezra  Lee, 
of  Lyme,  (where  he  died  in  1840,)  was  the  intrepid  navigator. 
He  was  gone  all  night  out  under  the  bottoms  of  the  several  ships, 
trying  to  affix  his  vertical  screw  to  their  copper  bottoms.  Early 
in  the  morning,  however,  despairing  of  success,  he  fired  off  near 
to  the  Asia.  It  was  seen  by  Gen.  Washington  and  his  suite  from 
the  top  of  his  residence,  in  New  York,  and  soon  after  Capt.  Lee 
returned  in  safety.  The  British  were  driven  down  to  the  Hook, 
from  sheer  fear  of  such  invisible  and  mysterious  assailants,  and 
thus  we  got  rid  of  the  unwelcome  visitors  for  a  time. 

West  Point  and  British  doings  about  it,  in  the  time  of  the 
Revolution.  Col.  W.  L.  Stone,  has  written  a  good  article,  called 
the  "language  of  flowers,"  wherein  he  tells  the  tale  of  the 
beautiful  and  accomplished,  and  finally  abandoned  daughter  of 
Major  Moncrieffe,  of  the  British  engineers,  having  managed  to 
get  herself  surprised  and  captured,  so  as  to  be  placed  in  the 
family  of  Gen.  Putnam,  then  commander  of  West  Point.  While 
there,  she  used  to  amuse  the  general  with  her  drawings  and 
groupings  of  flowers,  which  were  so  chosen  and  disposed  as  to 
picture  to  her  father's  experienced  eye  the  plans  and  state  of  the 
Fort,  &c.  Col.  Burr,  however,  who  was  his  aid,  and  her  admirer, 
thought  he  discerned  the  stratagem,  and  affecting  to  admire  it, 

*  To  be  in  a  common  prison  then,  was  a  too  common  incident.  Thus  Judge 
Stockton,  LL.  D.,  a  member  of  Congress,  was  taken  and  so  imprisoned.  Judge 
Fell,  of  Bergen  county,  and  Col.  Ethan  Allen  were  also  there. 


340  Incidents  of  the   War  at  New   York. 

seized  upon  it,  demanded  of  her  to  name  her  price  for  it,  to  which 
she  answered  "her  safe  return  to  New  York,''  which  was 
granted. 

This  same  young  lady  had  some  other  remarkable  incidents  in 
her  life.  She  was  married  against  her  Avill  for  money  to  an 
Irish  officer  of  the  name  of  Coghlan.  [The  last  act  in  office,  of 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Auchmuty  of  Trinity  Church.]  They  lived  unhap- 
pily and  separated,  and  she  became  successively  the  mistress  of 
several  noblemen,  and  of  the  late  Duke  of  York.  Her  father 
Major  Moncrieffe,  settled  in  New  York  after  the  peace,  and  died 
there  in  1791,  from  the  bursting  o-f  a  blood-vessel  of  the  heart  ; 
and  what  is  remarkable  is,  that  this  daughter  then  living  in  Lon- 
don, dreamed  at  the  same  time  (10th  Dec.)  that  she  saw  the 
funeral  procession  of  her  father,  and  that  a  bleeding  heart  was 
placed  upon  the  coffin.  So  strong  was  this  vision  impressed  upon 
her  mind  as  a  reahty,  of  his  death,  that  she  actually  went 
into  deep  mourning  immediately.  She  lived  long,  and  died 
neglected  and  poor — poor  thing  !  "  The  way  of  the  transgressor 
is  hard  !  " 

Sir  Henry  Clinton  and  his  cortege  of  aids  and  favourites,  made 
a  daily  gallop  up  Broadway  to  the  fields,  and  then  back  again. 

There  might  be  seen  the  Hessian,  with  his  towering  brass 
fronted  cap,  mustachios  coloured  with  the  same  blacking  which 
coloured  his  shoes,  his  hair  plastered  with  tallow  and  flour,  and 
reaching  in  whip  form  to  his  waist.  His  uniform,  blue  coat  and 
yellow  vest  and  breeches,  and  black  gaiters.  The  Highlander, 
with  his  low  checked-bonnet,  his  tartan  or  plaid,  short  red  coat, 
his  kilt  above  his  knees,  and  they  exposed,  his  hose  short  and 
party  coloured.  There  were  also  the  grenadiers  of  Anspach,  with 
towering  black  caps :  the  gaudy  TValdeckers,  with  their  cocked 
hats  edged  with  yellow  scallops.  The  German  Yagers,  and  the 
various  corps  of  English,  in  glittering  and  gallant  pomp.  Such 
were  they  seen  day  by  day,  where  now  fashion  and  business 
daily  take  their  promenades. 

The  British  officers  performed  at  the  John-street  theatre ;  it 
opened  in  Jan.,  1777,  and  continued  several  years.  Dr.  .Beau- 
mont, surgeon-general,  was  both  manager  and  principal  low 
comedian.  Col.  French  played  Scrub.  Women's  characters  were 
performed  by  the  youngest  officers.  Lieut.  Pennefeather  was 
Estifania.  Major  Williams  of  the  artillery,  was  the  hero  of 
tragedy,  the  Richard  and  Macbeth ;  and  his  mistress  performed 
Lady  Macbeth,  and  was  also  used  in  comedy.  Captains  Delancey, 
Seix,  Loftus,  Bradden,  Andre,  Stanley,  &c.,  performed. 

New  York  City,  It  was  the  policy  of  Gov.  Tryon,  and  other 
official  persons,  to  speak  of  New  York  as  a  loyal  or  tory  town, 
and  the  force  and  time  which  they  were  enabled  to  preserve 
there,  gave  the  British  peculiar  chances  of  preserving  a  favour- 
able bias  at  that  place.     The  tories  and  refugees,  were  most 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  New  Yoi^,  341 

numerous  on  the  seaboard  side  of  the  Jerseys.  Dr.  FrankHn*s 
son,  the  governor  of  New  Jersey,  was  an  active  man  in  promoting 
tory  and  refugee  enterprises  against  us. 

Richmond  Hill,  now  called  Richmond  Hill  Theatre-Inn, 
This  was  originally  built  for  Abraham  Mortier,  a  wealthy  gen- 
tleman, paymaster-general  to  the  British  colonial  forces.  It  was 
on  an  eminence,  surrounded  by  a  park  or  woods,  and  was  so 
occupied  by  Gen.  Washington  as  his  head -quarters  in  the  revo- 
lution, and  at  other  times  by  one  of  the  British  generals  com- 
manding in  New  York.  It  was  then  far  out  of  town,  and  all 
around  was  rural ;  now  it  is  all  city,  and  built  upon.  The  house 
itself,  let  down  from  its  eminence,  stands  at  the  corner  of  Varick 
and  Charlton  streets,  and  is  used  as  a  tap-room  or  tavern  to  the 
theatre  close  by  it.  It  was  by  going  through  the  thick  woods 
north  of  this  house,  that  some  of  the  American  troops  made  their 
escape,  under  Col.  Burr. 

Kennedy  House,  No.  1  Broadway,  was  built  before  the  revo- 
lution, for,  and  occupied  by,  Capt.  Kennedy  of  the  British  navy. 
It  was  once  the  head  quarters  of  Gen.  Putnam,  while  he  held  a 
short  command  at  New  York,  afterwards  of  the  British  command- 
ing generals. 

Defences  back  of  Brooklyn.  These  consisted  of  lines  and 
redoubts,  constructed  by  Gen.  Lee,  and  occupied  by  Gen.  Put- 
nam ;  we  lost  them,  very  much  by  a  want  of  concert  among  our 
own  officers. 

Corlear's  Hook  was  surrounded  by  batteries,  used  by  the 
Americans. 

Bayard^s  Mount,  was  a  small  cone-shaped  mount,  on  which 
we  erected  a  small  fort,  near  the  corner  of  Mott  and  Grand  streets. 
It  looked  down  upon  the  distant  city,  having  the  Kolch  between. 

The  House  and  Garden  of  Nicholas  Bayard,  were  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Kolch,  and  not  far  from  the  aforesaid  mount. 
To  the  west  of  these,  were  swamps  and  woods,  and  to  the  north- 
east, were  orchards  and  woods.  Now  all  these  places  are  in  the 
thickly  setded  city  part  of  New  York  ! 

The  Great  Conflagration  of  Neio  York  in  1776.  This  was 
probably  an  affair  of  accident,  one  however  recommended  by 
our  Gen.  Greene,  and  rejoiced  in  by  many  patriots ;  and  perhaps 
for  that  reason  believed  by  the  British  to  be  an  affair  of  design, 
to  dislodge  them  from  their  comforts  and  influence.  Gen.  Howe, 
in  writing  to  his  government  concerning  it,  says  that  matches  and 
combustibles  had  been  prepared  with  great  art,  and  applied  by 
incendiaries  in  several  places.  Many  (he  says)  were  detected, 
and  some  killed  upon  the  spot  by  the  soldiers.*     At  that  time  all 

*  Gen.  Washington's  letters  to  Congress,  on  the  2d  and  8th  of  Sept.,  177fi, 
(since  published,)  show  that  he  thought  its  burning  rather  advisable,  to  prevent 
the  British  from  having  such  good  quarters. 

2  F  2 


343  Inmdents  of  the  War  at  New  York, 

the  houses  from  the  present  City  hotel,  up  to  St.  Paul's,  uere  of 
wood,  and  small.  Many  low  people,  used  the  remains  of  the 
houses  to  make  temporary  hovels,  covered  with  canvass,  and 
therefore  nicknamed,  Canvass-town. 

Devotion  to  the  Revolutionary  struggle.     When  Gov.  Trum- 
bull of  Conn.,  early  in  the  war,  made  a  call  of  patriotism  upon 
the  exempt  from  militia  duty,  to  volunteer  their  services;  the 
town  of  VVaterbury  made  up  a  company  of  24  aged  men,  whose 
united  age  amounted  to  1000  years,  and  they  were  the  first  of 
their  regiment  who  reached  New  York,  in  January,  1777.     They 
were  all  married  men  with  families,  leaving  behind  them  their 
-   wives  with  149  children ;  one  of  them  of  the  age  of  5S,  had  had 
^*     19  children  and  12  grandchildren. 
,V^  •■  I  knew  a  reverend  gentleman  and  a  scholar,  in  Morris  county, 

N.  J.,  who  said  that  he  and  other  boys  at  his  school,  were  anxious 
to  arrive  at  their  eighteenth  year,  on  purpose  that  they  might  be 
enrolled  in  the  militia,  and  thus  be  obliged  to  go  into  service 
against  the  will  of  their  parents.  They  looked  to  the  coming  of 
age,  as  to  a  day  of  freedom.  He  and  others  went  and  served 
their  term,  and  rejoiced  in  all  the  exposures  of  action.  It  was  a 
common  feeling,  and  high  spirits  and  buoyant  hearts  enjoyed  the 
peril.  They  did  not  seek  for  commissions,  but  only  desired  to 
encounter  and  defeat  or  repel  the  enemy.  I  knew  a  young  school- 
master of  Bucks  county,  who  actually  enlisted  in  Wayne's  regi- 
ment, and  was  made  a  sergeant,  from  his  pure  love  of  country 
and  his  desire  to  help  as  he  could,  in  a  time  of  need.  Many 
however,  faltered  and  chilled  as  the  war  prolonged,  and  they 
were  vexed  with  the  conduct  of  sundry  selfish  men.  Even  the 
celebrated  Col.  Burr,  at  the  age  of  sixteen,  left  his  college  and 
went  as  a  volunteer  in  Arnold's  winter  expedition  against 
Quebec.  All  those  who  went  into  the  naval  service,  never  stop- 
ped to  make  terms  beforehand,  for  themselves  or  families  in  case 
of  their  being  wounded  or  killed.  It  is  really  wonderful,  the 
spirit  which  sustained  and  impelled  the  whigs  then.  All  of  Col. 
Small  wood's  Maryland  regiment,  dressed  in  hunting  shirts, 
were  young  farmers  of  good  estates  near  Baltimore. 

It  is  a  fact  deserving  of  peculiar  recollection  and  interest,  that 
in  the  revolutionary  struggle,  there  was  no  man  and  no  family 
which  did  not  enter  into  its  spirit  and  feeling  with  the  deepest 
concern.  This  was  peculiarly  the  case  with  all  conditions  of  men, 
who  were  of  fighting  age,  because  none  of  such  were  exempted 
from  the  service  of  the  war,  either  by  being  drafted  (if  not  already 
volunteers),  or  by  costs  for  substitutes.  The  very  nature  of  the 
militia  service,  by  which  the  war  for  seven  years  was  sustained 
in  all  the  states,  and  their  short  and  frequent  service  therein, 
brought  out  the  whole  population  in  the  course  of  time,  so  that 
all,  eventually,  had  more  or  less  of  its  peril  and  endurance.  From 
this  cause,  every  family  in  the  Union  was  brought  within  its  influ-' 


Incidents  of  the  War  at  Neiv   York.  343 

ence,  and  felt  deeply  its  bereavements  and  vicissitudes.  In  this 
matter  it  was  probably  like  no  other  known  war  for  its  universal 
hold  on  the  people. 

From  such  causes,  it  was  a  fact,  for  several  years  after  the 
war  had  ended,  that,  travel  where  you  would,  by  sea  or  by  land, 
or  wherever  you  stopped  by  the  way  at  inns,  &c.  you  constantly 
saw  men  saluting  each  other  in  the  most  cordial  and  affectionate 
terms,  as  "  old  soldiers,"  and  falling  into  stirring  recognitions  and 
recitals  of  their  perils  together,  in  given  battles  and  campaigns. 
Every  body  you  met,  wherever  you  journeyed,  had  something  to 
say  of  their  recollections  and  reminiscences  of  the  past,  and  all 
such  had  always  welcome  audiences  from  all  others  present.  It 
was  then  an  ordinary  affair  in  all  of  our  cities  and  villages,  to 
meet  with  men  bearing  bodily  signs  of  being  halt  or  maimed 
thereby.  It  was  also  very  common  to  see  several  acting  as  beg- 
gars, claiming  to  have  been  old  soldiers,  and  wearing  some  relic 
of  military  array,  such  as  a  cap  and  buck's  tail,  to  arrest  public 
sympathy  and  contribution. 

It  was  so,  that  even  that  portion  of  the  people  who  were  ex- 
empt from  military  service,  such  as  the  aged,  the  women,  and 
the  tories,  were  all  brought  into  full  feeling  with  the  arduous 
struggle,  by  their  necessary  sympathies  with  those  who  had  to 
put  forth  their  efforts,  either  for  or  against  the  final  termination. 
Thus  we  learn  from  Dr.  Rush's  work  on  the  mind,  that  there  was 
an  actual  disease  induced,  known,  and  understood  in  several  of 
the  states,  as  the  "  Tory  rot"  and  "  the  Protection  fever,"  em- 
bracing within  its  range,  "  those  friends  of  Great  Britain,  and 
those  timid  Americans,  who  took  no  public  part  in  the  war." 
Many  of  them  died  of  it.      fVe  must  not  forget  these  things. 

The  Alliance  frigate.  As  a  well  known  matter  belonging  to 
the  incidents  of  the  war  of  the  revolution,  we  here  give  some 
notice,  with  a  picture,  of  the  frigate  Alliance,  one  of  the  most 
fortunate  vessels  of  that  period,  and  as  the  only  one  which  escaped 
destruction  or  capture. 

She  was  in  many  engagements,  and  always  victorious.  She 
•was  a  remarkably  fast  sailer,  could  always  choose  her  combat, 
and  was  equally  good  to  fight  or  run  away.  Twice  she  bore  the 
fortunes  of  La  Fayette  across  the  ocean.  At  one  time  she  was 
commanded  by  Paul  Jones,  at  which  time,  she  bore  the  then 
national  flag  of  the  coiled  up  rattlesnake  and  thirteen  stripes. 
At  another  time  she  was  commanded  by  Capt.  Barry. 

After  the  war,  she  was  used  as  a  merchantman,  and  was  the 
second  vessel  from  Philadelphia  to  Canton — sailed  June  1787, 
commanded  by  Capt.  Reed,  made  her  return  to  Philadelphia  the 
17th  Sept.  1788. 

She  was  built  at  Salisbury  up  the  river  Merrimack,  was  named 
in  honour  of  our  alliance  with  France  in  1778,  and  then  had  as  a 


344 


Incidents  oj  the   fVar  at  New  York. 


compliment  to  that  nation,  Capt.  Landais,  a  Frenchman,  for  her 
commander. 

Finally  she  was  condemned  and  her  hull  laid  ashore  on  Petty's 
Island  at  Philadelphia,  where  her  keel  and  timbers  still  live  a 
monument  of  the  connection  between  the  former  and  the  present 
navy.  From  her  remains,  relics  have  been  preserved,  and  we 
here  add  her  portrait  in  memory  of  her  services  and  history. 


When  we  contemplate  the  actual  state  of  our  revolutionary 
navy,  fighting  as  "rebels"  with  halters  round  their  necks — in 
imagination,  engaging  in  unequal  conflicts  with  a  powerful  enemy 
so  ascendent  in  force  as  to  be  able  to  destroy  as  fast  as  we  could 
find  means  to  create,  we  cannot  but  admire  at  the  indomitable 
spirit,  which  could  so  unequally  contend  against  such  fearful  odds. 
Nor  is  this  all ;  for  it  is  told,  to  their  honour,  that  none  who  so 
engaged,  had  any  provision  by  law,  for  themselves  or  families,  in 
case  of  wounds,  decayed  health,  or  actual  destruction.  They 
asked  no  previous  terms  or  conditions ;  but  went  to  sea  with  will- 
ing hearts,  inspired  by  patriotic  impulse.  Their  actual  story  has 
never  been  told !  Of  all  the  three  hundred  and  fifty  souls  blown  up 
in  the  Randolph  frigate  in  her  encounter  with  the  Yarmouth  man 
of  war,  not  more  than  one  family  ever  received  any  thing  from  the 
public  purse.  They  had  no  chroniclers  to  inscribe  their  venturous 
darings.  We  have  only  the  memoirs  of  Capt.  Nathaniel  Fanning, 
an  inhabitant  of  New  York,  to  tell  us  of  their  daily  perils  and 
fearful  conflicts  on  the  mountain  wave.  Much  we  still  need  some 
chronicler  to  tell  us  of  the  actions  of  the  Refugee  boats  and  'par- 


Incidents  of  the   IVar  at  New  York.  345 

iies^  coasting  along  the  sound,  and  about  the  inlets  and  coasts  of 
Long  Island  and  New  Jersey  :  making  predatory  invasions  upon 
the  seaboard  inhabitants,  under  circumstances  of  aggravated  insult 
and  injury;  producing  no  essential  benefit  to  the  cause  of  the 
enemy,  but  causing  distress  and  misery  wherever  they  landed  and 
pillaged  and  laid  waste. 

Aged  people  must  still  live  in  New  York,  who  must  remember 
the  departure  and  return  of  numerous  expeditions  from  that  place 
for  such  purposes  of  devastation,  because  that  city  was  their  place 
of  outfit  and  refuge.  They  consisted  of  brutalized  and  enj|J)ittered 
Americans,  who  had  abandoned  former  homes  and  connections, 
and  were  so  chosen  to  act  upon  their  former  friends  and  neigh- 
bours, because  they  best  understood  how  easiest  to  reach  and 
injure  them. 

Our  little  navy  was  begun  first  by  little  Rhode  Island,  with 
only  two  schooners,  in  1775.  The  same  state  was  also  the  first  to 
recommend  to  Congress  the  formation  of  a  national  naval  force, 
which  was  first  begun  by  a  force  of  thirteen  vessels  in  December 
1775.  Soon  after,  Massachusetts  fitted  out  several  armed  vessels 
which  bore  for  their  flag,  a,  pine  tree  on  a  white  ground,  with  the 
motto,  "  We  appeal  to  Heaven."  The  first  naval  battle  took 
place  about  three  weeks  after  the  battle  of  Lexington,  when  Capt. 
fVheaton  had  the  pre-eminence  of  being  the  first  to  cause  the 
striking  of  the  British  flag.  At  this  early  period.  Gen.  Washing- 
ton undertook  to  get  upt  and  send  to  sea  an  expedition  of  six  ves- 
sels, and  was  obliged  in  his  instructions  to  address  them  as  a  part 
of  the  army,  detached  for  such  a  service  ! 

At  this  commencing  period  of  the  revolution  the  national  flag 
as  borne  from  Philadelphia  and  Virginia,  and  perhaps  from  other 
states,  consisted  of  thirteen  stripes  with  a  rattlesnake  coiled  and 
ready  for  attack,  with  the  motto  "  Don't  tread  on  me."  A  device 
much  commended  at  the  time  in  the  London  Morning  Chronicle, 
of  July  1776. 

It  is  painful  to  consider  how  many  thousands  now  individually 
"  unknown  to  fame,"  became  the  victims  of  their  early  efforts  for 
their  country,  and  came  too  soon  to  mingle  their  bones  among  the 
dead  prisoners  of  the  Wallabout.  Let  us  revere  their  remains. 
They  contended  and  died  for  country  and  home,  and  we  now 
enjoy  in  peace  their  sacrifices  and  efforts  !     Will  any  consider  ? 


44 


346  Residences  of  British  Officers. 


KESIDENCES  OF  BRITISH  OFFICERS. 

"  In  all  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  war." 

As  it  aids  our  conceptions  of  the  past  to  be  able  to  identify  the 
locahties  where  men  conspicuous  in  our  annals  of  the  revolution 
dwelt,  I  set  down  the  mansions  which  some  of  them  then  occu- 
pied. 

Gen.  Gage,  before  the  revolution,  dwelt  in  the  large  house, 
now  Young's  cabinet  rooms,  No.  69  Broad  street.  There  Gage 
had  that  house  splendidly  illuminated  in  1762,  for  the  news  of 
the  Stamp  Act  repealed,  probably  as  a  measure  to  conciliate  the 
people.  In  the  same  house  once  dwelt  Gen.  Alexander,  after- 
wards our  Lord  StirHng. 

Governor  Tryon  lived,  after  his  residence  in  the  fort  was  burnt, 
in  the  house  now  the  Bank  of  New  York,  at  the  corner  of  Wall 
and  William  streets. 

Gen.  Robinson,  commandant  of  the  city,  lived  at  one  time  in 
William  street,  near  to  John  street.  At  another  time  he  lived  in 
Hanover  Square,  now  the  premises  of  Peter  Remsen  &  Co.  No. 
109.     He  was  an  aged  man,  of  seventy-five  years  of  age. 

Col.  Birch,  was  also  commandant  of  the  city  a  long  while,  and 
lived  in  Verplank's  house,  the  same  site  on  which  the  present 
Bank  of  the  United  States,  in  Wall  street,  stands. 

The  residence  of  Admiral  Digby,  and  indeed  of  all  the  naval 
officers  of  distinction  arriving  on  the  station,  was  Beekman's 
house  on  the  north-west  corner  of  Sloate  lane  and  Hanover 
Square.  There  dwelt,  under  the  guardianship  of  Admiral  Digby, 
Prince  Wm.  Henry.  The  same  since  king  of  England.  What 
associations  of  idea  must  be  produced  in  the  minds  of  those  who 
can  still  remember  when  he  walked  the  streets  of  New  York  in 
the  common  garb  of  a  midshipman's  "roundabout,"  or  when 
they  saw  him  a  knocked-kneed  lad,  joining  the  boys  on  the 
Kolch  pond.  Could  he  again  see  New  York,  he  would  not  know 
the  rival  London. 

Gen.  H.  Clinton  had  his  town  residence  at  N.  Prime's  house, 
(first,  built  for  Capt.  Kennedy,)  at  No.  1  Broadway,  on  the  Bat- 
tery. His  country  house  was  then  Doct.  G.  Beekman's,  on  the 
East  river,  near  Bayard's  place. 

Sir  Guy  Carlton  also  occupied  the  house  of  N.  Prime ;  and  for 
his  country  residence,  the  house  at  Richmond  hill,  on  Greenwich 
street,  afterwards  the  residence  of  Col.  A.  Burr.  Lord  Dorches- 
ter also  dwelt  at  the  latter  house.  It  has  now  been  lowered 
twenty-two  feet,  to  make  it  conform  to  the  surrounding  new 
streets  and  improvements. 


Residences  of  British  Officers.  347 

Gen.  Howe  dwelt  in  N.  Prime's  house  at  the  south  end  of 
Broadway  next  to  the  Battery. 

Gen.  Knyphausen,  commander  of  the  Hessians,  dwelt  in  the 
large  house,  even  now  grand  in  exterior  ornaments,  &c.,  in  Wall 
street,  where  is  now  the  Insurance  Co.,  next  door  eastward  from 
the  New  York  Bank. 

Admiral  Rodney,  when  in  New  York,  occupied  for  his  short 
stay  the  house  of  double  front  of  Robert  Bowne,  No.  256  Pearl 
street. 

Governor  Geo.  Clinton  had  his  dwelUng  in  the  present  "Red- 
mon's  Hotel,"  No.  178  Pearl  street.  It  was  splendid  in  its  day, 
of  Dutch  construction ;  it  had  a  front  of  five  windows  and  six 
dormer  windows ;  its  gardens  at  first  extended  through  to  Water 
street,  which  was  then  into  the  river. 

All  along  the  front  of  Trinity  church  ground,  called  "the  Eng- 
lish church"  formerly,  was  the  place  of  the  military  parade,  called 
by  the  British  "  the  Mall."  There  the  military  band  played,  and 
on  the  opposite  side  assembled  the  spectators  of  both  sexes. 

I  bestowed  unusual  pains  to  ascertain  the  residence  and  con- 
duct of  the  traitor  Gen.  Arnold.  I  found  such  variety  and  oppo- 
sition of  opinion,  as  to  incline  me  to  believe  there  was  some 
intentional  obscurity  in  the  residence,  as  a  better  security  to  his 
person  against  capture.  The  weight  of  evidence,  however,  de- 
cides me  to  believe  he  dwelt  at  two  places  in  New  York ;  and 
that  his  chief  residence,  as  a  separate  establishment,  was  at  the 
west  side  of  Broadway,  and  at  the  third  house  from  the  river. 

There  Mr.  Rammay  said  he  dwelt,  and  had  one  sentinel  at  his 
door;  whilst  Sir.  H.  Clinton,  at  Prime's  house  at  the  corner,  had 
two.  John  Pintard,  Esq.  told  me  of  his  being  present  at  Hanover 
Square  when  his  attention  was  called  by  whispers,  "  not  loud  but 
deep,"  of,  "  see  the  traitor  general !"  He  saw  it  was  Arnold, 
coming  under  some  charge  from  Sir  Henry  Clinton  at  the  Battery, 
to  Gen.  Robertson,  then  understood  by  Pintard  to  be  the  com- 
mandant of  the  city.  It  was  said,  that  after  the  usual  salutations 
with  Robertson,  he  requested  his  aid  Capt.  Murray,  a  dapper  lit- 
tle officer,  to  show  Gen.  Arnold  the  civilities  and  rarities  of  the 
place.  The  spirited  captain  strutted  off  alone,  saying,  "  Sir,  his 
Majesty  never  honoured  me  with  his  commission  to  become  gen- 
tleman-usher to  a  traitor !" 

There  seems  almost  too  much  point  in  the  story  to  be  strictly 
true,  but  it  was  the  popular  tale  of  the  day  among  the  Whigs 
incog.  Mr.  L.  C.  Hamersly  told  me  he  saw  Arnold  at  Verplank's 
house  in  Wall  street,  where  is  now  the  United  States  Bank  ;  and 
then  he  thought  Arnold  lived  there  with  Col.  Birch.  Robert  Len- 
nox, Esq.  thought  he  lived  with  Admiral  Digby. 

Gen.  Arnold  was  born  in  Norwich,  Conn.,  in  Jan.  1740,  where 
he  had  been  apprenticed  to  an  apothecary.  At  one  time  he  was  in 


348  Residences  of  British  Officers. 

business  at  New  Haven,  and  the  sign  is  still  preserved,  which  he 
once  there  used  as  designating  his  pursuits.     It  read  thus,  viz  : 

B.  ARNOLD,  DRUGGIST, 
BOOKSELLER,  &c., 

FROM    LONDON. 

Sibi  totique* 

It  was  a  singularity  to  have  thus  named  himself  as  being yrom 
London,  where  he  had  indeed  been.  He  was  known  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  revolution,  to  have  been  mostly  engaged  in 
the  trade  of  shipping  horses  and  mules  to  the  West  Indies.  His 
name,  in  German,  expressed  a  mainfainer  of  honour  ! 

After  his  elevation  to  the  general,  he  became  vainglorious  and 
prodigal  of  expense  beyond  his  means,  and  when  he  married 
Miss  Peggy  Shippen,  a  distinguished  belle  of  Philadelphia,  a 
daughter  of  Judge  Shippen,  his  habits  of  expensive  living  became 
extravagant.  IVlany  have  thought,  that  the  bias  of  herself  and 
father  to  the  British  side,  assisted  to  corrupt  his  integrity  to  the 
American  cause.  She  had  been  the  toast  of  the  British  officers, 
while  their  army  occupied  Philadelphia,  and  besides,  had  been 
the  friend  and  correspondent  of  Major  Andre.  Arnold  after  his 
marriage,  encouraged  that  correspondence,  until  at  length,  it  was 
opened  more  directly  between  the  two  officers  themselves,  and 
finally,  led  to  the  treachery. 

Gen.  Arnold  died  in  London,  in  1801,  unhonoured  and  unno- 
ticed there ;  and  afterwards  his  wife  returned  to  the  United  States, 
incognito,  and  died  at  Uxbridge,  Mass.  at  the  age  of  eighty-three 
years,  on  the  14th  Feb.  1836.  Col.  Burr  has  said,  that  her  pride 
and  ambition,  perverted  her  husband's  integrity  of  action  and 
feeling. 

Their  only  son  and  daughter  (he  being  a  British  subaltern) 
went  to  reside  in  the  East  Indies  many  years  ago.  Another  ac- 
count in  the  London  Spectator  of  1838,  says,  that  two  sons  are 
then  in  England,  say  James  R.  and  Wm.  F.  aged  fifty-seven  and 
forty-four,  and  that  each  receive  a  pension  of  £81  a  year.  He 
had  five  children  by  his  first  wife.  Two  or  three  of  his  sons  were 
schooled  at  the  Academy  at  Philadelphia. 

*  For  himself,  for  the  whole,  or  for  all — ''for  himself  was  selfish  indeed ! 


Personal  appearance  of  British  Officers.  349 


%^s  it  may  interest  some  of  our  readers  to  know  something  of 
the  personal  appearance  of  officers  about  whom  they  have  so 
often  heard  and  read  in  our  history,  we  here  add  some  brief 
notices  described  by  an  accurate  observer,  to  wit : — 

Sir  Wm.  Howe  was  a  fine  figure,  full  six  feet  high,  and  admi- 
rably well  proportioned.  In  person  he  a  good  deal  resembled 
Washington,  and  might  have  been  mistaken  for  him  at  a  distance. 
His  features,  though  good,  were  more  pointed,  and  the  expres- 
sion of  his  countenance  Avas  less  benignant.  His  manners  were 
polished,  graceful,  and  dignified. 

Sir  Henry  Clinton  was  short  and  fat,  with  a  full  face,  prominent 
nose,  and  an  animated  intelligent  countenance.  In  his  manners 
he  was  polite  and  courtly,  but  more  formal  and  distant  than 
Howe ;  and  in  his  intercourse  with  his  ofiicers,  was  rather  punc- 
tilious, and  not  inclined  to  intimacy. 

Lord  Cornwallis  in  person  was  short  and  thick  set,  but  not  so 
corpulent  as  Sir  Henry.  He  had  a  handsome  aquiline  nose  ;  and 
hair,  when  young,  rather  inclined  to  sandy ;  but  at  the  time  of 
his  leaving  here,  it  had  become  somewhat  gray.  His  face  was 
well  formed  and  agreeable,  and  would  have  been  altogether  fine 
had  he  not  blinked  badly  with  his  left  eye.  He  was  uncommonly 
easy  and  afiable  in  his  manners,  and  always  accessible  to  the 
lowest  of  his  soldiers,  by  whom  he  was  greatly  beloved.  With 
his  officers  he  used  the  utmost  cordiality. 

Gen.  Knyphausen,  who  commanded  the  Germans,  was  a  fine 
looking  German,  of  about  five  feet  eleven,  straight  and  slender. 
His  features  were  sharp,  and  his  appearance  martial. 

Tarleton  was  below  the  middle  size,  stout,  strong,  heavily  made, 
with  large  legs,  but  uncommonly  active.  His  eye  was  small, 
black,  and  piercing ;  his  face  smooth,  and  his  complexion  dark ; 
he  was  quite  young,  probably  about  twenty-five. 

Col.  Abercrombie,  who  afterwards  gained  so  much  eclat  in 
Egypt,  where  he  fell,  was  one  of  the  finest  built  men  in  the  army; 
straight  and  elegantly  proportioned.  His  countenance  was  strong 
and  manly,  but  his  face  was  much  pitted  by  the  small-pox.  When 
here  he  appeared  to  be  about  forty. 


20 


350  Ancient  Edifices. 


ANCIENT   EDIFICES. 

The  venerable  pile,  by  innovation  razed. 

The  Walton  House,  No.  324  Pearl  street,  was  deemed  the 
nonpareil  of  the  city  in  1762,  when  seen  by  my  mother,  greatly 
illuminated  in  celebration  of  the  Stamp  Act  repealed.  It  had 
been  built  in  1757,  and  was  then  intended  to  show  the  best  style 
of  English  construction,  and  of  course,  as  marking  a  set  purpose 
of  avoiding  the  former  Dutch  style.  It  has  even  now  an  air  of 
ancient  stately  grandeur.  It  has  five  windows  in  front,  con- 
structed of  yellow  Holland  brick;  has  a  double  pitched  roof 
covered  with  tiles,  and  a  double  course  of  balustrades  thereon. 
Formerly  its  garden  extended  down  to  the  river.  The  family  is 
probably  descended  of  the  Walton,  who,  a  century  ago,  gave  the 
name  of  "  Walton's  Ship  Yard,''  at  the  same  place.  Wm.  Walton, 
who  was  one  of  the  council,  and  the  first  owner  of  the  above 
house,  made  his  wealth  by  some  preferences  in  the  trade  among 
the  Spaniards  of  South  America  and  Cuba. 

There  are  at  present  but  four  or  five  houses  remaining  of  the 
ancient  Dutch  construction,  having  "pediment  walls"  surmount- 
ing the  roof  in  front,  and  giving  their  gable  ends  to  the  street ;  a 
form  once  almost  universal. 

In  1827  they  took  down  one  of  those  houses  in  fine  preserva- 
tion and  dignity  of  appearance,  at  the  corner  of  Pearl  street  and 
Old  slip,  marked  1698.  About  the  same  time  they  also  took 
down  another  on  the  north-east  side  of  Coenties  slip,  marked 
1701.     The  opposite  corner  had  another,  marked  1689. 

In  Broad  street  is  one  of  those  houses  marked  1698,  occupied 
by  Ferris  &  Co.,  No.  41.  Another,  appearing  equally  as  old,  but 
of  lower  height,  stands  at  the  north-east  corner  of  Broad  and 
Beaver  streets.  These,  with  the  one  now  standing,  of  three 
stories.  No.  76  Pearl  street,  near  Coenties  slip,  are,  I  think,  the 
only  ones  now  remaining  in  New  York. — "The  last"  of  the 
Knickerbockers. !  The  passion  for  modish  change  and  novelty  is 
levelling  all  the  remains  of  antiquity. 

The  ancient  ^'Stadt  Huys,^'  formed  of  stone,  stood  originally 
at  the  head  of  Coenties  slip,  facing  on  Pearl  street  towards  the 
East  river,  is  now  occupied  by  the  houses  No.  71  and  73.  It 
was  built  very  early  in  the  Dutch  dynasty,  1642,  and  became  so 
weakened  and  impaired  in  half  a  century  afterwards,  as  to  be 
recommended  by  the  court  sitting  there,  to  be  sold,  and  another  to 
be  constructed.  The  minutes  of  common  council,  which  I  have 
seen  in  Gen.  Morton's  office,  are  to  this  effect; — In  1696  it  is 


Jincieni  Edifices,  351 

ordered  that  inquiries  be  made  how  the  "  City  Hall,"  and  the 
land  under  the  trees  by  Mr.  Burgher's  path,  would  sell.  In  1 698 
they  agree  to  build  the  "  new  City  Hall"  by  the  head  of  Broad 
street,  for  ^63,000 ;  the  same  afterwards  the  Congress  Hall,  on 
corner  of  Wall  street.  i 

In  1699  they  sell  the  old  City  Hall  to  John  Rodman,  for  i)920, 
reserving  only  "the  bell,  the  king's  arms,  and  iron  works,  (fetters, 
&c.)  belonging  to  the  prison,"  and  granting  leave  also  to  allow 
the  cage,  pillory,  and  stocks  before  the  same,  to  be  removed 
within  one  year;  and  the  prisoners  in  said  jail  within  the  said 
City  Hall,  to  remain  one  month.  In  front  of  all  these  on  the 
river  side,  was  placed  the  Rondeal  or  Half  Moon  fort,  where  it 
probably  assisted  the  party  sheltered  in  the  City  Hall,  while  the 
civil  war  prevailed. 

All  these  citations  sufficiently  show  that  here  was  really  a  City 
Hall  as  a  court  of  justice,  with  the  prison  combined.  All  the 
tradition  of  the  old  men  has  been,  that  "  there  was  once  the  old 
jail."  We  know  from  Dutch  records  that  there  was  an  earlier 
prison  than  this  once  within  the  fort,  say  in  1640.  We  know 
also,  that  this  Stadt  Huys  was  originally  constructed  by  orders  of 
Gov.  Keift,  for  a  Stadt  Herberg  or  City  Tavern.  Soon  after,  it 
was  made  to  serve  both  for  the  company's  tavern  and  City  Hall, 
at  the  same  time.  Here  the  partizans  in  the  civil  war  held  their 
fortress,  and  at  them  balls  were  fired  from  the  fort ;  one  of  which, 
driving  into  a  neighbouring  wall,  I  have  lately  seen.  In  time, 
the  numerous  persons  crowding  the  courts  held  in  it,  weakened 
the  building,  and  made  it  needful  to  take  it  down  in  1700.  It 
would  seem,  that  as  "  it  was  old  and  run  to  decay,"  a  second 
building  had  supplied  its  place  in  1701,  as  that  was  the  mark 
which  that  house,  taken  down  on  the  spot  in  1827,  then  bore. 

The  City  Hall,  at  the  head  of  Broad  street  fronting  on  Wall 
street,  stood  out  beyond  the  pavement  in  that  street,  and  must 
have  been  finished  in  1700.  Its  lower  story  formed  an  open 
arcade  over  the  foot  pavement.  It  was  also  the  proper  prison  of 
the  city,  and  having  before  it,  on  Broad  street,  a  whipping  post, 
pillory,  &c.  There,  was  also  held  the  sessions  of  the  Provincial 
Assembly,  the  Supreme  Court,  and  the  Mayor  and  Admiralty 
courts ;  it  was  also  the  place  of  election.  It  was  finally  altered 
to  suit  the  Congress,  and  such  as  it  then  was  has  been  preserved 
in  an  engraving  done  by  Tiebout  in  1789  ;  the  jail  prisoners  were 
at  that  time  moved  to  the  then  "  new  jail  in  the  Park."  But  the 
Congress  removing  to  Philadelphia,  through  the  influence  of 
Robert  Morris,  as  the  New  Yorkers  set  forth  in  a  caricature,  it 
was  again  altered  to  receive  the  courts  and  the  State  Assembly. 
Finally,  all  was  removed  to  the  present  superb  City  Hall  of  "  ever- 
lasting marble."  It  is  curious  respecthig  the  City  Hall,  that  it 
was  originally  constructed  on  the  site  and  out  of  the  materials  of 
a  stone  bastion,  in  the  line  of  the  wall  of  defence  along  Wall 


352  Ancient  Edifices. 

street ;  and  after  it  was  built,  it  is  on  record  that  it  was  ordered 
that  it  be  embelUshed  with  the  arms  of  the  King,  and  the  Earl  of 
Bellermont,  which,  Avhen  done,  the  corporation  ordered  that  the 
latter  should  be  taken  down  and  broken.  What  could  that  indig- 
nity mean,  especially  so  near  the  time  of  his  death,  which  occurred 
in  1701.  The  British  while  in  New  York,  used  the  City  Hall  as 
the  place  of  the  main  guard  ;  at  the  same  time  they  much  plun- 
dered and  broke  up  the  only  public  library,  then  contained  in  one 
of  its  chambers.  Its  best  style  of  appearance  was  on  the  occasion 
of  being  fitted  up  for  the  first  Congress,  under  the  Constitution, 
directed  by  the  engineer.  Major  L'Enfant.  It  was  in  its  gallery 
on  Wall  street,  in  April  1789,  that  Gen.  Washington  was  inau- 
gurated Me  ^r^/  President  of  the  United  States.  This  important 
public  ceremony,  the  oath  of  office,  was  done  in  the  open  gallery 
in  front  of  the  Senate  chamber,  in  the  view  of  an  immense  con- 
course of  citizens  collected  in  Broad  street.  The  doors,  windows, 
and  roofs,  of  every  house  at  the  same  time  were  thronged  with 
charmed  and  exulting  spectators.  There  this  nobleman  of  nature, 
in  his  noble  height  and  port — ''  the  beheld  of  all  beholders," — in 
a  suit  of  brown  cloth  of  American  manufacture,  steel  hilted 
small  sword  by  his  side,  hair  in  bag  and  full  powdered,  in  whit6 
silk  hose  and  shoes  with  silver  buckles,  made  his  sworn  pledge 
as  President  to  Chancellor  Livingston  on  a  superb  quarto  Bible 
still  preserved  by  St.  John's  Lodge,  No.  1.  How  uprightly,  in- 
telligently and  disinterestedly  he  executed  his  task  and  redeemed 
that  pledge  as  the  Pater  Patrix  of  his  country,  history  will  never 
cease  to  tell — to  his  fame  and  glory. 

General  Washington's  first  public  dinner  at  New  York. 
Judge  Wingate,  who  was  one  of  the  guests,  when  Gen.  Wash- 
ington gave  his  first  dinner  after  his  inauguration  as  President, 
thus  describes  it  in  his  letter.  The  guests  consisted  of  the  Vice 
President,  the  foreign  ministers,  the  heads  of  departments,  the 
Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  and  the  Senators  from 
New  Hampshire  and  Georgia,  the  then  two  most  northern  and 
southern  states.  It  was  the  least  showy  dinner  that  I  ever  saw 
at  the  President's  table,  and  the  company  was  not  large.  The 
President  made  his  whole  dinner  on  a  boiled  leg  of  mutton.  // 
was  his  usual  practice  to  eat  of  but  one  dish.  As  there  was  no 
chaplain  present,  the  President  himself  said  a  very  short  grace 
as  he  ivas  sitting  down.  After  the  dinner  and  dessert  were  fin- 
ished, one  glass  of  wine  was  passed  round  the  table,  and  no 
toast.  The  President  arose,  and  all  the  company,  of  course,  and 
retired  to  the  drawing-room,  from  which  the  guests  departed  as 
every  one  chose  without  ceremony."     Days  of  simplicity  ! 

The  first  theatre  being  destroyed  in  Beekman  street,  a  second 
theatre  was  established  in  John  street,  between  Nassau  street  and 
Broadway.  There  British  officers  performed  sometimes  for  their 
amusement.     Buonaparte's  activity  and  vigour  of  mind  would 


•/indent  Edifices.  353 

have  found  them  more  characteristic  and  busy  employ.  It  was 
well  for  us  that  the  army  had  such  material. 

There  were  two  ancient  Custom  Houses,  one  stood  at  the  head 
of  Mill  street,  a  confined  little  place ;  a  more  respectable  one,  is 
the  same  now  a  grocery  store  on  the  north-west  corner  of  Moore 
and  Front  streets.  Mr.  Ebbets,  aged  76,  remembered  it  used  as 
such.  At  the  same  time  the  basin  was  open  all  along  Moore 
street.  The  present  N.  W.  Stuyvesant  told  me  this  was  the  same 
building  once  the  "  Stuyvesant  Huys"  of  his  celebrated  ancestor. 
In  front  of  the  building  was  a  public  crane. 

The  Exchange  stood  near  there,  on  arches,  across  the  foot  of 
Broad  street,  in  a  line  with  Water  street ;  it  was  taken  down  after 
the  revolution.  Under  its  arches  some  itinerant  preachers  used 
occasionally  to  preach. 

The  Jirst  Preshyierian  Church,  built  on  the  site  of  the  present 
one  in  Wall  street  near  Broadway,  was  built  in  1719;  and  it  is 
on  record  in  Connecticut,  that  churches  there  took  up  collections 
to  aid  the  primitive  building. 

To  reflect  on  the  changes  working  in  New  York,  one  is  to  con- 
sider that  formerly,  Wall  and  Pine  streets,  from  Broadway  to 
Pearl  street,  domiciUated  exclusively  the  elite  and  fashionable  of 
the  city.  Now  there  is  not  a  solitary  house  occupied  as  a  resi- 
dence left.  Scarcely  a  house  of  former  days,  though  once  elegant, 
is  now  there.  In  Pine  street  from  Water  street  to  Broadway, 
every  former  house  is  demolished,  and  in  Wall  street  every  for- 
mer residence  is  gone.  There  is  only  left  in  the  rear  of  the  for- 
mer stylish  house  of  Mr.  Jauncey,  the  stable,  the  same  building 
now  used,  with  sundry  modifications,  as  the  hall  of  the  board  of 
brokers.  It  may  be  deemed  modest  in  them  who  are  usually 
deemed  lords  of  Wall  street,  to  be  thus  satisfied  with  the  lowli- 
ness of  a  stable. 

Pearl  street  was  also  once  a  location  for  the  residence  of  many 
respectable  names  and  families,  such  as  Gov.  Geo.  Clinton,  Gov. 
Broome,  Richard  Varrick,  Robert  Lennox,  Andrew  Ogden,  J.  J. 
Glover,  Samuel  Denton,  and  many  others  of  their  class  and  stand- 
ing— now  business  houses  supersede  all. 

There  was  formerly  along  the  present  Chambers  street,  a  row 
of  log  houses,  of  one  story.  Think  of  the  change  there,  since 
then,  including  such  houses  of  stately  grandeur,  as  Verplanck's, 
Winthrop's,  Wilke's,  Gen.  Lamb's,  Buchannan's,  Leffingwell's, 
Reese's,  and  Jauncey's. 

French  Protestant  Church,  ''Du  St.  Esprit.'^— This  antique 
building,  the  oldest  of  the  old  churches  now  remaining  in  New 
York,  was  erected  in  1704,  by  the  Protestant  Hugonots,  escaped 
from  France,  and  settled  at  Brooklyn,  New  Rochelle,  &c.  When 
we  contemplate  the  sanguinaiy  persecution  from  which  thy  fled, 
and  the  happy  and  prosperous  refuge  which  they  here  found ; — 
leaving  numerous  respectable  and  wealthy  descendants  among  us, 
45  '   2  g2 


354  \  Ancient  Edifices. 

to  perpetuate  their  names,  we  feel  more  than  common  veneration 
for  this  venerable  remains  of  the  olden  time. 

To  those  who  have  minds  fitted  for  contemplation  and  con- 
sideration, it  presents  a  place  to  visit  for  the  sake  of  the  moral  and 
historical  associations  connected  with  its  primitive  worshippers. 

When  New  York  city  contained  but  a  population  of  6000  souls, 
these  French  Protestants  formed  a  little  community  of  their  own, 
— there,  in  that  church,  by  themselves,  they  assembled  and  lis- 
tened to  the  word  of  God  and  his  Gospel,  in  their  own  tongue, 
and  "having  none  to  make  them  afraid."  In  this  same  church, 
divine  service  in  French  is  still  performed — in  Episcopal  order, 
every  Sabbath  day,  at  its  location,  in  the  rear  of  Pine  street,  near 
Nassau  street. 

Too  many  of  their  descendants  have  deserted  the  house  of  their 
fathers,  or  doubtless,  the  congregation  would  be  much  greater 
than  it  is,  and  the  church  itself  might  have  been  enlarged,  or  even 
pulled  down  to  build  greater.  Such  as  it  now  is,  we  here  portray 
in  its  picture,  given  in  this  book. 

The  reader,  to  enter  into  the  spirit  of  these  remarks,  should  visit 
such  a  church,  and  there  consider,  with  us,  that  within  those  same 
walls,  once  sat  many,  gravely  attired  French  men  and  women, 
very  different  in  aspect  and  general  dress,  from  the  present  gene- 
ration of  fashionable  folk  occupying  their  seats,  and  inheriting 
their  names  and  legacies. 

It  is  a  part  of  the  history,  properly  belonging  to  this  church 
and  people,  that  the  Hugonots  settled  in  Rochelle,  as  farmers, 
&c.,  were  accustomed  to  walk,  in  whole  families,  every  Saturday 
afternoon,  twenty  miles,  to  have  one  sweet  day  of  Sabbath  rest,  in 
this  their  consecrated  temple  of  worship !  Christian  worship  must 
have  meant  something  substantial  then,  when  so  arduously  fol- 
lowed, for  the  sake  of  its  "  recompense  of  reward."  Let  their 
descendants  and  others  consider  this,  and  profit  by  the  moral 
which  the  example  affords. 

But  few  persons,  however,  seem  to  regard  the  proper  claims 
of  this  church  to  their  notice  or  attention.  It  is  hardly  known 
to  many  even  in  New  York,  itself.  Its  low,  grave,  and  sombre 
form,  and  monastic-like  heavy  tower,  is  eclipsed  by  more  aspiring 
edifices. 

To  reflective  and  thoughtful  people,  however,  the  very  walls 
with  their  past  associations,  should  always  awaken  an  interesting 
and  profitable  homily, — in  such  a  place  one  has  only  to  sit  and 
think,  and  then  the  mind  will  moralize  its  own  sermon !  The 
very  subject  has  already  made  us,  so  far  our  own  preacher.  But 
when  the  sermons  there  are  given  weekly  in  French,  where  are 
all  the  young  students  of  French,  in  New  York,  that  they  do  not 
crowd  the  Old  French  Church, — and  why  do  so  few  consider ! 


Reflections  and  Notices.  355 


REFLECTIONS  AND  NOTICES. 

"  When  I  travelled  I  saw  many  things, 
And  learned  more  than  I  can  express." — Eccl. 

In  my  travels  about  New  York,  looking  into  every  thing  with 
"  peering  eyes,"  I  saw  things  which  might  not  arrest  every  one, 
and  which  I  am  therefore  disposed  to  set  down. 

New  York,  as  a  whole,  did  not  strike  me  as  a  deformity  that  it 
had  several  narrow  and  winding  lanes.  I  might  prefer,  for  con- 
venience of  living,  straighter  and  wider  streets,  as  their  new  built 
ones  in  every  direction  are ;  but  as  a  visitor,  it  added  to  my  grati- 
fication to  wind  through  the  unknown  mazes  of  the  place,  and 
then  suddenly  to  break  upon  some  unexpected  and  superior  street 
or  buildings  traversing  in  another  direction.  It  gives  entertain- 
ment to  the  imagination,  to  see  thus  the  lively  tokens  of  the  primi- 
tive Dutch  taste  for  such  streets ;  and  the  narrow  lanes  aided  the 
fancy  to  conceive  how  the  social  Knickerbockers  loved  the  narrow 
lanes  for  their  social  conveniences,  when,  sitting  in  their  stoops 
in  evenings  on  either  side  the  narrow  pass,  they  enjoyed  them- 
selves in  social  Dutch,  not  unlike  the  "  social  vehicles"  now  used 
for  travelling  up  and  down  Broadway,  and  ranging  the  passen- 
gers face  to  face. 

I  felt  also  pleased  and  gratified  with  the  great  variety  of  painted 
brick  houses,  done  of  necessity,  because  their  bricks  are  inferior 
generally,  but  giving  them  occasion  to  please  the  eye  with  nu- 
merous fancies. 

This  is  peculiarly  the  town  of  "merry  church-going  bells." 
Their  numerous  spires  as  ornaments,  seem  to  demand  the  others, 
as  apologies  for  such  expensive  steeples. 

There  is  something  in  New  York  that  is  a  perpetual  ideal  Lon- 
don to  my  mind,  and  therefore  more  a  gratification  to  me  to  visit 
than  to  abide.  The  stir  and  bustle ; — the  perpetual  emulation  to 
excel  in  display ; — the  various  contrivances,  by  signs  and  devices, 
to  allure  and  catch  the  eye  ; — the  imitations  of  London  and  for- 
eign cities  and  foreigners,  rather  than  our  own  proper  republican 
manners  and  principles, — struck  my  attention  every  where.  The 
very  ambition  to  be  the  metropolitan  city,  like  London,  gave  them 
cares  which  are  not  to  be  coveted.  Why  do  we  want  our  cities, 
and  even  our  country,  dense  with  foreign  population  ?  Is  there 
no  maximum  point,  beyond  which  our  comforts  and  ease  must 
proportionably  diminish  ?     I  fear  so. 

New  York  is  distinguished  for  its  display  in  the  way  of  sigus ; 
every  device  and  expense  is  resorted  to,  to  make  them  attractive, 


356  JRe flections  and  Notices. 

crowding  them  upon  every  story,  and  even  upon  the  tops  and 
ends  of  some  houses,  above.  One  small  house  in  Beekman  street 
had  twelve  signs  of  lawyers;  and  at  155  Pearl  street,  the  name 
of  Tilldon  and  Roberts  was  painted  on  the  stone  steps  of  the 
door ! 

"  The  very  stones  prate  of  his  whereabouts." 

In  truth  it  struck  me  as  defeating  their  own  purpose,  for  the  glare 
of  them  was  so  uniform  as  to  lose  the  power  of  discrimination. 
It  is  not  unlike  the  perpetual  din  of  their  own  carriage-wheels 
along  Broadway,  unnoticed  by  themselves,  though  astounding  to 
others. 

These  signs,  however,  had  some  interest  for  me,  and  especially 
along  Pearl  street,  where  they  were  of  tamer  character  than  in 
Broadway,  and  were  so  much  the  easier  read.  There  I  read  and 
considered  the  nomenclature  of  the  town.  I  saw  by  them  that 
strangers  had  got  hold  of  the  business  and  the  wealth  of  the  place. 
"  The  busy  tribes"  from  New  England  supplied  numerous  names  ; 
and  the  names  of  the  Knickerbockers  were  almost  rarities  in  their 
own  homes !  Judicious  persons  told  me  they  thought  full  one 
half  of  all  the  business  done  in  New  York  was  "  by  the  pushing 
Yankees,"  (I  mean  it  to  their  credit !) — one  fourth  more  by 
foreigners  of  all  kinds,  and  the  remainder  left  a  fourth  for  the 
Knickerbockers ;  some  of  them  in  business,  but  many  of  them 
reposing  otium  cum  dignitate,  on  the  surprisingly  increased  value 
of  their  real  estates.  The  ancients  Avho  still  linger  about  as  look- 
ers-on, must  sigh  and  exclaim,  "  strangers  feed  our  flocks,  and 
aliens  are  our  vine-dressers  !" 

Having  so  spoken  of  the  active  Yankees,  so  much  settling  in 
New  York  city  and  still  more  throughout  the  state,  it  causes  us  to 
remember,  that  there  was  an  eye  to  such  a  settlement,  as  a  favour- 
ite home,  even  as  early  as  the  days  of  the  Pilgrim  fathers,  when 
they  were  brought  out  in  the  Mayflower,  and  landed  at  the  Ply- 
mouth rock.  The  fact  was,  that  those  same  fathers  presented 
their  memorial  to  the  Prince  of  Orange  and  the  New  Netherland 
Company  on  the  12th  February  1620,  setting  forth,  that  they  had 
a  company  of  four  hundred  families,  in  Holland  and  in  England, 
who  were  then  desirous  of  embarking  with  their  English  minis- 
ter, then  living  at  Leyden,  and  speaking  the  Dutch  language,  to 
settle  in  New  Amsterdam,  for  the  alleged  purpose  "  of  planting 
there  the  pure  christian  religion,  and  converting  the  savages  of 
the  country  to  the  christian  faith."  The  petition,  though  much 
considered,  did  not  however,  from  some  cause,  then  take  ;  and 
those  who  thus  then  inclined  for  New  York,  made  their  settle- 
ment in  New  Hampshire,  cultivating  and  there  improving  a  New 
England  state,  from  which  their  sons  in  subsequent  years,  have 
emigrated  to  carry  out  in  New  York,  their  forefathers'  earliest  in- 
clinations and  wishes.    Blessings  and  happiness  attend  them.    If 


Reflections  and  Notices.  357 

for  such  a  home  the  fathers  prayed,  behold  the  prayer  answered 
(though  it  tarried)  in  tlie  actual  residences  of  their  sons  ! 

Jones'  buildings,  or  Arcade,  in  Wall  street,  is  a  curious  contri- 
vance for  mere  offices — a  real  London  feature  of  the  place,  where 
ground  is  precious.  I  deem  it  strange,  that  in  so  rapidly  an  enlarg- 
ing city  I  should  see  no  houses  "  to  let ;" — all  seen  occupied. 

The  frequency  of  fires,  and  their  alarms,  is  one  evil  of  over 
large  population.  The  cry  occurred  every  day  or  night  I 
dwelt  in  the  city.  An  old  man  (Mr.  Tabelee)  who  had  been 
twenty-eight  years  a  fireman,  told  me,  they  never  had  an  alarm 
of  fire  in  summer,  in  olden  time. 

New  York  has  now  become  an  extremely  finely  paved  city. 
Formerly  many  of  their  foot-walks  had  only  the  same  kind  of 
round  pebbles  which  fill  the  carriage  way.  This  gave  occasion 
to  Dr.  Franklin  to  play  his  humour,  in  saying,  a  New  Yorker 
could  be  known  by  his  gait,  in  shuffling  over  a  Philadelphia  fine 
pavement  like  a  parrot  upon  a  mahogony  table  !  Now,  their  large 
flag-stones  and  wide  foot  pavements  surpass  even  Philadelphia, 
for  its  ease  of  walking  ;  and  the  unusual  width  of  their  flag-stone 
footways,  across  the  pebbled  streets  at  the  corners,  is  very  supe- 
rior. 

In  visiting  two  of  the  Reformed  Dutch  churches,  my  mind  ran 
out  in  various  meditations  and  reflections.  I  thought  of  the 
ancients  all  gone  down  to  the  dust — of  their  zeal  and  devotion  to 
the  decrees  of  the  Synod  of  Dort  and  of  God — of  their  hope  that 
their  own  language  would  never  be  superseded  within  those  walls 
which  they  had  reared  !  'Now,  as  I  looked  around  among  th^ 
congregation  for  Knickerbocker  visages  and  persons,  I  saw  no 
caste  of  character  to  mark  their  peculiar  race.  You  may  discern 
a  German  in  Pennsylvania,  as  of  a  coarser  mould  ;  but  not  so 
the  Netherland  progeny  in  New  York.  Yet  such  as  I  found  them 
they  were  the  only  and  last  remains  of  the  primitive  settlers  of 
New  Amsterdam  ;  it  was  only  in  such  a  collection  of  descendants 
that  you  could  hope  to  find,  if  at  all,  the  scsquipedalia  names  of 
their  ancestors,  such  as  these  : — Mynheers  Varrevanger,  Vander 
Schuven,  S'ouwert  Olpheresse,  Vande  Spiegel,  Van  Bommel, 
Hardenbroeck  and  Ten  Broeck,  Boele  Roelofsen,  Van  Ruyven, 
Ten  Eyck,  Verplanck  Spiegelaer,  Van  Borssum,  &c. :  not  to  omit 
the  least  of  all  little  names,  "  De."  These  were  names  of  men 
of  property,  on  the  earliest  list  assessed,  now  extant. 

It  is  interesting  to  witness  occasionally,  here  and  there  the 
remains  of  the  ancient  town,  as  the  houses  in  some  instances  of 
humble  wooden  fabric,  continue  as  they  were.  Thus  in  so  con- 
spicuous and  wealthy  a  place  as  Broadway  and  the  Park, — "  tall 
mansions  to  shame  the  humble  shed," — we  see  at  the  south-west 
comer  of  Warren  and  Broadway,  a  collection  down  each  street, 
equal  to  four  houses  each  way,  of  i^mall  two  story  frames.  Down 
Broad  street,  a  central  place,  are  still  many  very  mean  looking 


358  Reflections  and  Notices. 

low  frames.  They  doubtless  retain  their  places,  because  of  pay- 
ing better  rents  for  their  value  than  could  be  derived  from  more 
sightly  edifices. 

The  New  York  painters  of  fancy  wood  are  certainly  peculiar 
in  their  skill  in  tasteful  decorations  or  accurate  imitations.  It  is 
displayed  in  numerous  fine  imitations  of  oaken  doors ;  sometimes 
in  marble  pillars  and  posterns ;  some  fine  imitations  of  the  pud- 
ding-stone columns,  which  cost  so  much  in  the  capitol  of  Wash- 
ington ;  but  finally,  I  think  nothing  can  excel  the  excellency  of 
the  painting  of  the  north  Dutch  church  pulpit,  where  Dr.  Brown- 
lee  is  pastor.  Every  touch  of  it  is  true  to  the  character  of  the 
bird-eye  maple,  and  having  the  finest  possible  polish. 

With  more  time  I  might  possibly  have  found  out  some  rarely 
aged  persons  of  good  experience  in  the  past.  I  saw  Sarah  Paul, 
a  coloured  woman,  at  No.  23  Lombardy  street,  of  the  rare  age 
of  one  hw^dred  and  fifteen  years,*  as  it  was  estimated.  Her 
memory  was  too  unstable  to  rest  any  remarkable  facts  upon, 
although  she  was  sufficiently  talkative.  Another  relic  of  "  Lang 
Syne,"  was  found  in  the  intelligent  mind  and  active  person  of  old 
William  Ceely,  then  an  inmate  of  the  Almshouse  at  Bellevue,  at 
the  advanced  age  of  one  hundred  and  eight.  Only  a  year  before, 
he  walked  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  to  see  relatives  in  Connec- 
ticut. How  strange  to  see  such  persons  so  long  escaped  the 
"  thousand  ills  that  flesh  is  heir  to  !" 

As  I  had  looked  in  vain  for  any  thing  like  primitive  remains 
of"  Oranje  Boven"  in  the  Dutch  churches  of  New  York,  I  would 
fain  have  followed  Knickerbocker  himself  to  their  "  last  hold"  at 
Communipaw, — a  name  itself  sufficiently  sounding  and  mysteri- 
ous to  invite  a  stranger  to  an  inspection  and  exploration,  to  learn 
if  he  could,  what  it  means  and  what  it  exhibits.  Its  allurement 
to  me  would  have  been  to  catch  there  a  living  picture  of  those 
characteristics  appropriated  to  it  by  its  comic  historian,  saying, 
"  it  is  still  one  of  the  fastnesses  whither  the  primitive  manners  of 
our  Dutch  forefathers  have  retreated,  and  still  are  cherished  with 
devout  affection."  The  pleasure  of  a  visit  to  such  a  place  I  was 
not  favoured  to  indulge  ;  but  if  it  answers  the  description,  it  is  the 
spot  which  the  sons  of  Oranje  Boven  should  specially  consecrate  to 
Dutch  memory,  by  holding  there  their  occasional  festivals  in  rude 
simplicity  ;  reviving  there  the  recollections  of  their  ancestors  by 
crowning  their  festive  boards  with  the  very  diet  in  kind  which 
they  once  prized,  such  as  Suppawn  and  Malk,  Hoof  Kaas,  Zult, 
Hokkies  en  Poetyes,  Kool  Slaa,  Roltetje,  Worst,  Gofruyt, 
Pens,  &c. 

In  that  very  place,  to  this  day,  there  are  individuals  in  families, 
who  still  adhere  to  the  former  practice  of  using  their  sugar  at  tea 

*  She  died  in  February,  1829 ;  and  in  1830,  there  died  in  New  York,  Anthony 
Vanpelt,  at  the  age  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  years. 


Reflections  and  Notices.  359 

and  breakfast,  separate  from  the  beverage;  they  putting  their 
spoons  into  the  sugar  bowl,  and  eating  it  in  small  tastes,  from  time 
to  time  from  the  spoon,  laid  by  the  side  of  their  cup.  The  same 
people  are  remarkable  for  the  abundance  of  good  things  given  at 
any  one  of  such  repasts  ;  but  it  is  a  rule,  not  to  place  more  than 
one  of  the  extras  on  the  table  at  a  time ;  and  as  each  one  of  these 
is  consumed,  then  comes  the  other,  and  then  another,  &c.,  to  the 
finish. 

"  Communipaw,"  is  to  be  understood,  as  a  corruption  of  the 
commune  of  Mr.  Pauw. 

If  one  should  attempt  to  compare  the  chief  distinguishing  char- 
acteristics of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  it  might  be  expressed 
in  brief  thus : — The  former  is  all  impulse,  the  other  steadiness — 
one  lives  while  it  can  and  is  dashing,  while  the  other  is  a  grave 
economist  who  while  it  wastes  nothing  enjoys  everything.  One 
is  the  city  of  the  heart,  the  other  is  of  the  head.  We  could  spend 
a  brief  season  with  one  in  exhilaration  and  excitement,  and  a  long 
life  of  happiness  and  peace  with  the  other. 

New  York  is  now  no  longer  restricted  to  its  Broadway.  It  has 
now  other  streets  of  width  and  buildings  of  grandeur.  Formerly 
we  were  always  thinking  of  its  absence,  when  in  its  other 
cramped  and  winding  passages. 

What  a  wonderful  change  of  wealth  and  splendour,  since  it 
was  once  a  city  where  legal  money  was  '^seawant,  made  of  clam 
shells  and  periwinkles  !"  Now  the  city  of  specie,  and  now  "  the 
Great  Emporium,"  of  "  the  Empire  State  !" 

Contemplating  New  York  as  she  once  was,  and  comparing 
her  as  she  now  appears,  it  is  impossible  to  avoid  the  spontaneous 
emotions  of  surprise  and  wonder,  to  which  we  are  stimulated  at 
every  change  of  place  and  point  of  observance.  Looking  back 
to  the  period  of  1800,  remembering  things  as  they  were,  and  seeing 
men  and  things  as  now,  we  cannot  but  notice  their  contrast  of 
state  and  character.  From  a  moderately  sized  city,  she  has  be- 
come great,  overrunning  and  effacing  all  former  metes  and  bounds. 
Houses,  such  as  once  contented  their  former  owners  in  size  and 
finish,  now  all  supplanted  by  large  and  magnificent  mansions. 
Streets  which  were  once  narrow,  crooked,  and  noiseless,  are  now 
straightened,  widened,  and  surcharged  with  clattering  vehi- 
cles. Public  buildings  which  were  formerly  large  and  good 
enough,  are  now  superseded  by  stately  edifices.  The  quiet  social 
habits  of  the  former  population,  are  overwhelmed  by  an  excitable 
bustling  race.  Grandeur  and  magnificence  are  seen  every  where, 
crushing  and  overwhelming  the  vestiges  of  the  past.  With  all 
these  changes,  comes  the  increase  of  troubles  and  perplexities  in 
the  city  police  and  municipal  government,  superinduced  by  the 
onerous  increase  of  irregular  inhabitants.  Merchants  and  busi- 
ness men  hurry  and  drive  faster,  and  are  themselves  driven  far 
faster  than  their  temperate  and  moderate  forefathers.    Everything 


360  Reflections  and  Notices. 

seems  to  partake  of  high  steam  pressure  and  power.  Excitement 
and  emotion  seem  stamped  on  many  visages.  Wall  street  seems 
an  active  hive  of  anxious  operators.  Refinement  and  splendour 
abound,  while  repose  and  comfort  seem  pressed  aside.  Too 
many  are  bent  on  sudden  aggrandisement,  and  expose  themselves 
to  severe  disquietudes  and  trials — trials  in  which  they  too  often 
fail  and  quit  the  scene,  to  be  filled  by  others,  fully  ambitious  to 
take  their  place.  Foreigners  crowd  in,  and  fill  up  all  vacancies, 
bringing  with  them  foreign  habits,  prepossessions,  and  morals. 
This  so  much  so,  as  to  give  progressively,  new  features  to  society. 
Young  men  in  the  upper  class,  as  they  regard  themselves,  are 
more  prodigal  and  profuse  in  their  expenses  and  habits,  and  their 
corresponding  young  ladies  are  found  their  rivals  in  magnificence 
of  dress  and  street  display.  How  greatly  have  all  articles  of 
furniture  and  equipage  altered — what  numerous  artificial  wants 
are  newly  created — how  many  indulgences  and  refinements, 
which  never  entered  the  heads  of  their  graver  forefathers.  We 
complain  not  of  these  things,  while  they  will  them  so— we  only 
express  them  as  facts  exciting  observation.  To  a  mind  duly 
awakened  to  the  subject,  with  an  information  commensurate 
with  the  change  as  it  is,  there  must  be  noticed  all  the  varying 
changes  of  the  Kaleidoscope  itself,  and  as  such,  we  thus  jot  them 
down.  Like  Paul  Pry  we  peer  about  and  see,  and  "  mean  no 
offence"  in  their  present  grave  mention. 

Though  but  a  looker-on  in  New  York,  like  others  of  "no  par- 
ticular business,"  I  nevertheless  felt  myself  occasionally  charged 
with  every  body's  concerns,  and  thought  myself  not  unlike  Knick- 
erbocker himself — a  mysterious  gentleman,  "very  inquisitve,  con- 
tinually poking  about  town  and  prying  into  every  thing ;"  seizing 
when  he  could,  facts  "trembling  on  the  lips  of  narrative  old  age," 
just  as  they  were  "'  dropping  piece-meal  into  the  tomb."  With 
the  best  intentions  to  be  civil  and  unintrusive,  a  quidnunc  must 
sometimestraverse  gruff  natures,  who  having  no  feelings  in  sym- 
pathy with  the  subjects  of  his  inquiries,  feel  fretted  by  the  kindest 
questions.  They  are  indeed,  not  unfrequent  occurrences ;  but 
when  happening,  are  more  likely  to  aflbrd  amusement  to  the 
patient  inquirer,  than  to  jade  or  vex  him.  I  could  readily  supply 
a  full  chapter  of  anecdotes  of  such  occasional  adverse  incidents, 
but  one  may  here  suffice. 

Passing  along  a  certain  street,  and  seeing  the  house  which  had 
been  once  occupied  as  the  primitive  Methodist  meeting-house 
then  a  small  store,  I  concluded  to  step  in  and  inquire  whether  any 
facts  concerning  its  early  days,  had  ever  been  spoken  of  in  the 
presence  of  the  present  occupants.  I  had  taken  for  granted  that 
the  inmates  should  be  New  Yorkers,  but  I  was  no  sooner  entered 
than  I  perceived  it  was  used  by  a  debonair  foreigner,  who  with 
much  vivacity  and  seeming  politeness,  was  already  on  the  qui 
vive,  arid  earnestly  approaching  from  a  back  apartment.   It  struck 


federal  Hall,  Wall  Street,  New  York,  and  Washington's  Installation,  p.  351. 


French  Protestant  Church,  p.  34  and  153,  354. 


Reflections  and  Notices,  361 

me  instantly  as  an  affair  mal  a  propos  on  both  sides.  For  I  could 
readily  read  in  his  countenance,  that  he  expected  in  me  a  guest 
by  whom  to  make  his  profit.  It  was  not  perhaps  to  the  credit  of 
the  gentleman,  that  I  should  beforehand,  conceive  that  he  would 
revolt  at  any  question  about  a  "  Methodist  meeting-house,"  let 
me  put  it  in  what  form  of  gentleness  I  would ;  but  it  was  so.  I 
had  no  sooner  in  set  words  of  intended  brevity,  told  the  objects  of 
my  stepping  in,  than  I  perceived  "  the  hectic  of  the  moment" 
flush  his  cheeks,  and  I  began  to  think  that  if  I  could  only  preserve 
my  self-possession,  I  might  see  the  veritable  enactment  of  "  Mon- 
sieur Tonson"  himself.  His  first  replication  was,  "  Oh  saire  !  what 
have  I  to  do  wid  de  Metodiste  meeting  ?"  Excuse  me  sir,  I  re- 
plied, that  is  what  I  cannot  answer,  because  I  came  to  ask  you 
what  you  might  have  ever  heard  of  this  house. — "  Why  saire, 
what  have  you  to  do  wid  dis  house  V  Very  much,  said  I,  as 
a  matter  of  curiosity  ;  for  here  it  was  said  was  cradled  a  religious 
people,  now  the  strongest  in  numerical  force  in  the  United  States! 
"  Ah  saire,  dat  is  noting  to  me  ....  I  am  no  Metodiste !"  Oh 
sir,  said  I,  of  that  I  am  fully  satisfied.  "  Then  saire,  wat  do  you 
want  ?"  I  told  you  that  at  ^^rst,  sir,  when  I  introduced  myself 
and  subject.  "  I  have  no  interest  in  the  subject,"  said  he.  So  I 
perceive,  said  I ;  and  I  am  only  sorry  I  have  engaged  so  much  of 
your  time  to  so  little  of  mutual  profit. 

Perceiving  him  so  tempest  tost,  on  so  small  a  subject,  all  "  to 
waft  a  feather  or  to  drown  a  fly  !"  I  constrained  him  to  hear  me 
a  little  longer,  while  I  should  tell  him  a  little  of  the  primitive  his- 
tory of  the  house,  under  the  plausible  kindness  of  enabling  him  to 
give  more  direct  answers  to  future  inquirers,  if  ever  again  ques- 
tioned concerning  his  very  notable  premises.  His  nervous  impa- 
tience, in  the  mean  time,  was  apparent  enough,  but  he  had  to 
bear  it,  to  please  my  humour ;  for  it  was  impossible  to  quarrel 
with  my  gentleness  and  urbanity;  and  he,  possibly,  could  not  but 
be  half  afraid  that  his  troubler  "  was  lunatic  and  sore-vexed,"  as 
one  too  often  affected  from  "the  glimpses  of  the  moon!"  We 
parted  with  mutual  bows  and  civilities ;  and  both  "  preserved  our 
honours." 

Had  I  time  and  incUnation  for  tales  of  other  rebuffs,  or  for  rela- 
tions of  the  alarms  I  have  sometimes  generated,  among  possessors 
of  dubious  titles  to  given  premises,  they  might  equally  amuse 
myself  in  their  recital.  Among  such  have  been  those,  who  as 
early  as  the  war  of  the  revolution,  had  become  quasi  owners  by 
quietly  stepping  into  the  shoes  of  individuals  gone  abroad  or  killed 
in  the  war,  and  then  by  the  aid  of  similar  surnames  at  a  distance, 
invented  what  titles  they  pleased;  Others  had  procured  what 
they  held,  by  payments  in  legal  tenders  of  worthless  continental 
money,  purchased  for  the  purpose,  at  almost  nothing.  Such  peo- 
ple would  sometimes  say,  it  must  needs  be  a  very  idle  and  per- 
nicious fancy,  to  be  XYms peeking  into  the  concerns  of  other  people; 
46  2  H 


362  Reflections  and  Notices. 

and  they  could  not  forbear  to  express  the  wish,  that  people  could 
learn  "  to  mind  their  own  business."  To  inquire  too,  into  the 
precedent  history  of  sundry  families  and  their  early  associations, 
was  to  some  a  sore  evil ;  and  "  the  sense  of  which,  to  them  was  a 
most  unmeaning  enterprise" — none  of  the  Parvenues  like  olden 
time  researches.  Others  however,  fallen  into  nobodies,  showed 
an  amusing  vanity,  in  attaching  themselves  to  some  exalted  trunk, 
from  which  they  had  dropt,  by  the  misdoing  of  some  parent  scion 
of  reckless  caste,  never  to  be  ingrafted  therein  again.  Such  could 
be  found  to  be  most  willing  to  use  my  services  to  exalt  them,  per- 
chance, into  some  adventitious  renown — such  thought  "  the  in- 
quiries very  commendable  indeed." 

The  great  fire  of  1835,  and  the  recent  ambition  for  lofty  build- 
ings, have  almost  superseded  the  original  character  of  Dutch 
houses.  The  former  pediment  walls  and  deeply  pitched  roofs,  are 
now  scarcely  seen.  Their  entire  difierence  from  all  other  con- 
structions in  this  western  world,  gave  them  a  picturesque  charm 
to  the  visitor.  There  is  however,  still  some  prevalence  of  another 
and  later  order  of  English  architecture,  which  strikes  one  as  more 
dignified  and  agreeable  in  its  forms  and  proportions,  than  those 
tall,  ambitious  houses,  carrying  high  heads  upon  small  founda- 
tions. I  mean  those  respectable  looking  double-front  houses, 
of  two  storied  elevation,  formed  of  yellowish  brick,  and  contrasted 
finely  with  brown  stone  entablatures,  porticoes,  &c.  Such  a 
one  as  is  finely  exemplified  in  Lorillard's  house  at  Hudson's 
Square,  and  in  another,  the  residence  of  John  J.  Astor. 

But  the  great  Mammoth  Hotel  of  Mr.  Astor's,  is  not  to  our 
taste.  It  has  the  sombre  granite  heavy  walls,  and  little  unadorned 
windows  of  a  prison.  It  has  not  as  much  architectural  taste  of 
form  and  character,  as  the  real  Provost,  near  by,  once  of  prison 
memory.  There  is  in  it  a  manifest  stint  of  ornament,  and  it  much 
needs  Hghtness  of  carpenter  work,  or  contrasted  white  marble,  to 
relieve  and  adorn  its  heavy,  gloomy  mass  of  walls.  It  possesses 
no  colonnades,  like  Lafayette  Place,  or  airy  ventilations  to  show 
off  its  inmates,  or  adequate  means  to  let  them  look  out  upon  the 
passing  people.  It  has  but  one  massy  centre  door ;  and  when  one 
sees  the  inmates  going  in,  and  that  door  closing  upon  them,  one 
instinctively  inclines  to  sdij,  farewell,  as  though  one  should  not 
expect  to  see  their  escape  in  case  of  an  internal  fire. 

An  aged  gentleman  tells  me  he  remembers  when  the  site  of  thii^ 
granite  hotel,  was  still  a  commons,  or  open  field,  on  which  the 
negroes  from  Virginia,  inveigled  thence  by  Lord  Dunmore,  in  the 
revolution,  were  encamped.  There  they  got  the  small-pox,  died 
in  great  numbers,  and  were  buried  in  the  negro  ground,  in  the 
rear  of  Chambers  street. 

The  new  University  is  an  edifice  far  more  to  our  taste.  Phila- 
delphians  should  feel  themselves  complimented  by  the  general 
style  of  the  whole  square  where  it  is  situate  :  the  University 


Reflections  and  Notices,  363 

itself  being  wholly  of  white  marble,  and  the  houses  of  the  whole 
square  being  constructed  after  the  manner  of  Philadelphia's  best 
houses,  of  fine  red  brick,  and  all  the  window  sills,  and  tops,  and 
doorsteps,  of  fine  white  marble.  The  coup  ct'oeil,  gives  a  sudden 
impression  of  summer  sunshine,  and  presents  the  idea  of  cheerful 
and  cleanly  residences.  The  contrast  of  this  place  with  other 
squares  of  the  city,  is  certainly  very  agreeable,  even  to  those  who, 
like  ourself,  have  been  sufficiently  pleased  with  the  frequent  use 
of  the  grave  and  sober  looking  brown  stone  so  often  used  in  lieu 
of  marble. 

There  is  another  thought  suggested  by  the  viewing  of  this 
University  square,  which  is,  that  it  might  be  a  good  measure  in 
Philadelphia,  to  make  a  "  New  York  Place,"  to  be  filled  with 
houses  after  the  New  York  manner,  of  brick  and  brown  stone, 
with  their  iron  palisade  embelUshments ;  and  still  another  to  be 
the  "  Boston  Place,"  of  sombre  granite,  &c.;  so  as  to  bring  distant 
cities  to  our  occasional  contemplation. 

It  cannot  but  be  subject  of  observation,  that  a  city,  once  so 
wholly  Dutch,  should  have  so  few  remains  of  Orange  Boven  and 
and  the  Fader  landt.  The  very  streets,  themselves,  being  gene- 
rally of  English  appellation ; — The  Hoere  graft  and  Nassau  streets, 
being  almost  the  sole  names  remembered  of  original  name.  Broad- 
way, as  a  street  was  no  doubt  of  English  formation — it  being  in 
fact,  at  first,  an  extended  Parade,  once  planted  in  the  middle  with 
trees  by  the  British  military,  and  called  their  Mall.  It  was  too 
much  out  of  town,  and  too  highly  elevated,  on  a  ridge  for  Dutch 
predilections  and  business.  They  loved  the  low  land  ;  and  above 
all,  the  HoBre  graft,  and  its  canal,  since  known  as  Broad  street. 

Those  httle  demi-curved  and  triangular  streets,  so  clustered  and 
involved,  at  and  about  the  region  of  Mill  street,  Beaver  street, 
and  Hanover  Square,  &c.,  so  like  the  diagram  of  a  fortification 
upon  the  map  ;  around  and  through  which,  Dutch  boys  in  ten- 
broecks,  and  girls  in  linsey-woolsey,  once  hid  and  dodged,  sported 
and  played,  shall  now  be  forever  gone,  and  their  memory  oblite- 
rated. Even  now  one  desires  to  learn,  if  possible,  what  could 
have  originally  induced  a  block  of  buildings  of  wedge  form  in 
the  very  centre  of  the  little  triangular  Hanover  Square,  so  indis- 
pensable, to  be  demolished  in  after  years,  for  the  sake  of  conveni- 
ence and  room. 

One  cannot  but  think  too,  of  the  present  wealth  and  grandeur  of 
New  York  compared  with  its  commencement,  when  it  went  on 
contentedly  for  many  years,  sufficiently  satisfactory  to  many,  with 
reed  and  straw  roofs,  wooden  chimneys  to  many  of  the  houses, 
and  with  oaken  staves  for  roofs  to  its  churches.  When  too,  it  paid 
its  officers  and  ministers,  and  managed  its  commerce  in  peltry, 
tobacco,  &c.,  with  seawant  shells,  tempora  mutantur. 

In  making  these  passing  reflections  and  notices  upon  desultory 
subjects,  we  have  been  led  to  think  a  little  upon  ourself,  and  upon 


364  Reflections  mid  Notices. 

the  influences  and  causes,  which  have  induced  us  to  think  and 
write  upon  these  things. 

I  felt  with  Walter  Scott,  that  I  "  dwelt  with  fondness  on  the 
rude  figures  of  the  olden  time."  I  thought  with  Blackwood's 
Magazine,  "  that  anecdotes  of  men  and  things,  will  have  a  charm, 
as  long  as  man  has  curiosity." 

I  had  been  so  led  by  circumstances,  into  the  way  of  forming 
these  Annals,  that  when  I  read  Sewell's  history  of  the  Quakers, 
and  noticed  the  reasons  he  assigned  for  that  undertaking,  I  could 
not  but  feel  that  I  could  use  some  of  his  expressions — as  for 
myself,  in  regard  to  the  present  work,  to  wit :  "  I  was  induced, 
(says  he,)  from  the  consideration,  that  the  facts  were  so  rare  and 
wonderful  as  not  to  he  found  in  other  histories :  and  having 
made  a  beginning,  I  resolved  to  go  on.  I  am  not  without  thoughts 
that  I  was  prepared  to  be  instrumental  for  such  a  work ;  for 
several  things  I  had  noted  down,  years  before  I  had  thoughts 
to  have  composed  such  a  history."  Although,  I  have  given 
many  things,  I  have  not  given  all  which  I  had  so  written 
down.  Add  to  this,  that  I  have  described  several  things  well 
known  to  me,  which  few  besides  myself  possessed.  Many  of 
them  were  noted  down  from  the  mouths  of  credible  persons, 
which  at  the  time,  I  did  not  suppose  I  should  ever  publish. 
Yet  I  took  account  of  whatever  seemed  to  me  worthy  to  be 
left  upon  record.  From  such  materials,  I  have  gleaned  what 
was  most  remarkable ;  and  from  this  as  a  fund  /  have  en- 
deavoured by  variety  of  matter  to  quicken  the  appetite  of 
the  reader,  and  have,  also,  intermixed  the  serious  parts 
sometimes,  with  the  facetious.  Now,  though  my  original  col- 
lection was,  as  Ovid  calls  the  chaos,  "  a  rude  undigested  heap  ;" 
yet  thence  I  have  compiled  the  greatest  part  of  my  history." 
Such  have  been  his  operations,  in  his  case  ;  and  such  also  have 
been  mine  !  He  also,  like  me,  lived  at  a  distance  from  the 
things  he  has  recorded. 

M.  Michelet,  in  his  book  the  People,  has  words  in  his  Preface, 
which  strongly  express  my  own  position.  He  says,  "I  have 
made  this  book  out  of  myself,  out  of  my  life,  and  out  of  my 
heart.  I  have  derived  it  from  observation,  from  my  relations 
of  friendship  and  from  neighbourhood ;  I  have  picked  it  up 
upon  the  roads.  Chance  loves  to  favour  those  who  follow  out 
one  continuous  idea.  [So  I  often  found  it !]  Above  all,  I  have 
found  it  in  the  recollections  of  my  youth.  I  had  but  to  inter- 
rogate my  memory .'" 

The  Hon.  Daniel  Webster,  who  has  done  me  the  honour  to 
commend  my  pursuits  in  these  matters  of  the  olden  time,  is  herein 
brought  to  bear  incidentally  upon  their  character  and  worth,  by 
what  he  has  expressed  in  his  late  speech  at  the  Plymouth  celebra- 
tion, saying,  in  his  own  pure  and  forcible  English  : — "  It  is  wise 
thus  to  recur  to  the  sentiments,  and  to  the  character  of  those  from 


Reflections  and  Notices,  3G5 

whom  we  are  descended.  Men  who  are  regardless  of  their  ances- 
tors, and  of  their  posterity,  are  very  apt  to  be  regardless  of  them- 
selves. The  man  who  does  not  feel  himself  to  be  a  link  in  the 
great  chain  to  transmit  life  and  being,  intellectual  and  moral  exist- 
ence, from  his  ancestors  to  his  posterity,  does  not  justly  appreciate 
the  relations  which  belong  to  him.  The  contemplation  of  our 
ancestors  and  of  our  descendants  ought  ever  to  be  within  the 
grasp  of  our  thoughts  and  affections.  The  past  belongs  to  us  by 
affectionate  retrospect ;  while  the  future  belongs  to  us,  no  less, 
by  affectionate  anticipation  for  those  who  are  to  come  after  us. 
And  then  only  do  we  do  ourselves  justice,  when  we  are  ourselves 
true  to  the  blood  we  inherit,  and  true  to  those  to  whom  we  have 
been  the  means  of  transmitting  that  blood.'^ 

"We  demand  (says  a  judicious  writer,)  entire  individuality, diS 
a  first  requisite  in  style,  as  in  manners.  The  thoughts  and  feel- 
ings should  be  that  of  the  writer  himself  alone."  We  willingly 
cite  such  authority  to  support  and  buttress  ourself  in  the  present 
work,  for  it  must  be  obvious  to  many,  that  we  imitate  no  one 
either  in  style  or  subject.  For  the  former  we  have  no  apology, 
since  it  is  only  such  as  we  have,  that  we  can  give  ;  and  as  to  the 
latter,  it  must  be  appreciated,  by  what  it  is  worth  to  the  reader. 
The  subject  matter,  is  our  forte. 


2r2 


366  Conclusion, 


CONCLUSION. 


In  contemplating  my  work  as  now  finished,  I  cannot  but  be 
sensible  of  the  peculiar  employment  in  which  I  have  been  en- 
gaged. I  have  been  as  one  rescuing  from  the  ebbing  tide  of  time, 
the  floating  and  perishing  images  of  the  past.  They  were  to  be 
seized  now,  or  lost  for  ever.  Ulilitarians  may  little  regard 
them ;  but  the  intellectual  will  respect  them  for  their  pictorial 
report  to  generations  to  come.  I  feel  and  know  my  position.  It 
is  like  that  felt  and  expressed  by  Col.  Trumbull,  when  speaking 
of  the  images  which  he  had  preserved  as  a  painter ; — he  saying, 
"  I  have  executed  a  work — the  result  of  a  willing  observance  of 
things,  for  which  no  one  lives  possessing  the  same  materials  ; — 
such  as  has  never  been  done  before  ; — and  in  which  it  is  not  easy 
that  J  should  find  a  rivalP 

It  is  indeed  a  wonder  to  myself,  that  I  have  so  steadily  felt  the 
impulse  to  "  note  and  observe  ;"  and  it  maybe  equally  surprising 
to  some  that  it  should  have  been  so  strongly  felt,  so  diligently 
pursued  by  one,  to  "  the  place  not  native  born,"  and  himself  at 
some  distance  from  the  places  and  facts  described.  He  would 
have  been  glad  to  have  been  able  to  record  his  acknowledgments 
of  assistance  from  New  Yorkers  themselves ;  but  although  some 
have  been  stimulated  to  aid  by  their  written  contributions,  nothing 
has  been  done.  The  idle  world  of  leisurely  gentlemen,  have  been 
too  busy,  or  too  careless,  to  give  time  or  attention  to  needful 
inquiries.  The  author,  therefore,  "  stands  alone  in  his  glory." 

Had  he  had  more  time  to  give  to  needful  personal  explorations, 
among  the  archives  and  official  records,  &c.,  he  would  have  been 
glad  to  have  set  himself  down  to  the  general  reading  of  the  muni- 
cipal and  colonial  MSS.  Dutch  and  English  records  at  New 
York  and  Albany, — to  have  there  seen  and  extracted,  as  he  could, 
any  facts  of  manners,  men,  and  things  of  the  olden  time,  different 
from  the  present. — Such  as  could  surprise,  amuse,  or  benefit  the 
present  generation. 

He  would  have  liked  to  have  investigated  the  records  of  the 
courts  in  the  colonial  times,  for  names  of  individuals,  and  facts  of 
action,  in  Dutch  and  English  proceedings.  Such  must  be  fruitful 
in  the  mention  of  their  doings  then.  The  presentments  of  grand 
juries,  and  the  actions  on  their  recommendations,  must  have  in- 
cidentally explained  a  former  state  of  things  in  society,  morals, 
&c.,  with  suggestions  for  improvements,  changes,  &c.,  and  the 
required  treatment  to  Indian  neighbours  about  them. 


Conclusion.  367 

Such  aids  I  know  how  to  appreciate,  from  the  actual  benefits 
derived  from  similar  investigations,  made  successfully  for  the 
Annals  of  Philadelphia  and  Pennsylvania,  whereby  I  was  enabled 
to  unearth  many  of  the  hidden  treasures  of  a  buried  age.  The 
same  I  would  fain  have  done  for  New  York,  had  they  been  acces- 
sible to  me. 

With  more  of  time,  to  have  spent  among  the  still  living,  of  the 
ancients,  I  might  have  increased  the  store  of  their  contributions, 
especially  in  such  facts  as  these,  to  wit : — I  might  have  enlarged 
^  the  records  of  notable  persons  and  characters,  therein  showing 
men  and  women  remarkable  for  any  thing, — whether  as  divines, 
physicians,  militaires,  poets,  painters,  inventors,  mariners,  artizans, 
eccentric  individuals,  aged  persons,  adroit  or  pernicious  ones,  rare 
criminals,  benefactors,  improvers,  &c. ;  or  among  the  females, 
women  remarkable  for  beauty,  wit,  fortitude,  misfortune,  talents, 
dress,  accomplishments,  &c. 

New  York,  during  its  long  duress  in  the  possession  of  the  British 
army,  must  have  been  full  of  incident.  Such  as  the  conduct  of 
the  British  officers  and  soldiery ;  notices  of  their  deportment  in 
families  and  in  the  social  circle,  among  the  inhabitants,  or  among 
themselves.  We  want  something  like  a  minute  picture  of  things 
as  they  were.  We  want  to  know  what  alliances  were  formed, 
and  who  proved  recreant  to  virtue  and  to  duty,  in  either  sex.  We 
want  to  hear  more  of  known  facts  to  prisoners,  notices  of  their 
arrivals,  numbers,  appearances,  and  disposals ;  notices  of  their 
sufferings,  exposures,  sayings,  repinings,  and  deaths.  Something 
of  those,  who  were  induced  by  hardships  and  hopes  of  relief  to 
join  the  enemy,  and  to  embody  themselves  by  enlisting  in  Royal 
corps.  Something,  and  even  much,  of  those  Americans  who, 
from  the  first,  heartily  united  to  the  Royal  cause,  constituted  a 
a  body  of  Marine  Refugees,  and  who,  in  barges,  pirated  along 
our  coasts,  committing  outrages  upon  the  inhabitants.  Who  of 
these  were  most  conspicuous  for  hardihood,  barbarity  and  excess. 
How  often  did  they  depart  and  return,  and  what  were  the  signs 
and  accompaniments  of  their  return.  Something,  too,  of  the  de- 
partures and  armaments  of  national  vessels,  or  of  arrivals  of  their 
prizes.  Something  more  of  the  localities,  and  military  displays, 
and  exercises  of  distributed  portions  of  the  army  in  and  about  the 
city  ;  also,  notices  of  British  proceedings  in  punishments  to  their 
soldiers,  &c.  Something  of  the  American  population  of  New 
York  at  that  time,  as  observers  and  lookers  on,  whether  as  tories 
or  silenced  whigs.  What  is  to  be  told  of  the  society  of  British 
ladies,  attached  to  officers ;  and  what  of  our  own  belles,  as  re- 
garded in  their  estimation.  What  of  night  restraints  in  going 
abroad,  when  meeting  with  sentinels,  restricting  street  passengers 
from  their  common  freedom.  Something  of  officers  and  nien 
visiting  churches  on  the  Sabbath,  and  of  what  kind  of  preaching 
and  morals  were  their  military  chaplains.  Something  of  American 


368  Conclusion, 

persons  visiting  New  York,  stealthily,  to  see  families,  or  to  con- 
vey relief,  if  any,  to  prisoners. 

All  these  and  more,  are  suggestions  arising  from  things  as  they 
were  to  an  observing  mind,  and  which  might  still  be  answered 
by  those  still  alive,  who  might  have  been  present  as  lookers  on. 
If  such  should  be  stimulated  to  think  and  recollect  upon  what 
they  had  seen  or  heard,  they  might  even  yet  become  contributors 
to  sundry  of  the  public  journals,  for  such  parts  as  they  could  elu- 
cidate, so  that  in  the  end,  facts  from  many  hands,  might  produce 
an  aggregate  worthy  of  embodying  as  a  whole,  in  some  future 
Annals  of  New  York.  May  not  some  who  use  fluent  quills,  stir 
up  the  garrulity  of  age,  and  report  something  in  the  premises  ? 

Finally,  as  a  general  remark,  it  may  be  said  to  all  and  every 
one  capable  of  adding  to  the  store  of  traditionary  lore,  thajt  they 
may  find  a  guide  whereby  to  enlarge  Ijieir  vision  to  the  whole 
field  of  inquiry,  by  seeing  the  whole  variety  of  city  objects,  as 
designated  by  the  list  of  chapters  found  in  the  table  of  contents 
of  the  Annals  of  Philadelphia.  Just  so  far  as  the  latter  differs 
in  subjects  from  those  of  New  York,  it  is  imputable  to  the  greater 
facilities  for  observation  possessed  by  him  for  one  city  more  than 
for  the  other. 

"  What  I  could,  I've  done, 
Would  it  were  worthier !" 


APPENDIX 


The  following  notice  of  the  great  fire  of  1835,  being  formed  by 
an  observer  at  the  time  without  a  design  of  publication,  will 
come  up  with  much  newness  and  freshness  to  many,  who  have 
ceased  to  think  of  the  subject.  Although  not  sufficiently  old  in 
itself  to  belong  to  olden  time,  yet  as  it  presents  a  notice  of  things 
not  otherwise  to  be  obtained,  we  here  give  it  as  something  whose 
record  should  be  laid  up  for  remembrance. 


THE  GREAT  CONFLAGRATION  OF  NEW  YORK, 

DECEMBER,  1835. 

«*  A  storm  of  fire,  a  surging  sea  of  flame  ! " 

The  great  conflagration  of  New  York  city,  in  December,  1835, 
— the  greatest  wonder  and  calamity,  and  befalling  the  greatest 
city,  hitherto  known  to  the  Western  world, — were  subjects  of 
sufficient  excitement  and  interest,  to  induce  a  journey  in  mid- 
winter, purposely  to  visit  the  ruins,  and  to  see  the  havoc  and  de- 
solation which  the  devouring  element  had  inflicted. 

Such  a  scene  of  devastation  can  only  be  expected  to  occur  once 
in  a  century,  or  but  once  in  a  life  ;  and  when  the  spectacle  onct 
got  up,  is  showed  off  at  such  tremendous  expense,  and  with  such 
terrific  display,  it  must  surely  be  worth  a  journey  of  observation 
"  to  note  and  observe  !"  Such  thoughts  influenced  my  mind,  and 
induced  the  visit  to  the  scene  of  destruction,  on  Christmas  day, 
the  25th  of  December,  1835,  being  eight  days  after  the  disaster 
had  closed  its  career  of  ravage  and  dismay. 

On  my  arrival  in  the  city  of  New  York,  my  first  impulse  was 
to  inspect  the  awful  ruins.  In  doing  so,  I  was  necessarily  obliged 
to  see,  beforehand,  the  persons  of  numerous  citizens  at  the  wharves 
and  along  the  streets.  Their  faces  nor  actions,  indicated  none  of 
those  excited  feelings,  which  my  own  emotion  might  have  sug- 
gested as  very  natural  from  the  occasion.  Indeed  it  was  but  too 
true,  that  the  wonder  of  the  occasion  had  much  subsided ;  and 
this  agreed  with  the  fact  before  observed,  in  the  intermediate 
47  369 


370  Jlppendix. 

journey,  that  the  mass  of  travelling  passengers — equal  to  150 
persons,  had  already  found  out  other  topics  of  conversation  and 
interest. 

Soon,  however,  I  entered  upon  the  scene  of  ruin,  and  oh  !  what 
a  scene — to  comprise  an  area  of  45  city  acres,  in  absolute  destruc- 
tion. To  see  still  the  charred,  the  blazing  and  smouldering  em- 
bers, to  scent  the  tainted  air,  loaded  with  smoke  from  the  still 
consuming  parcels  of  cotton,  coffee,  tobacco,  tea,  cotton  and 
woollen  goods,  still  resting  in  cellars,  covered  with  masses  of 
bricks  and  broken  granite.  Of  528  buildings  of  the  most  costly 
fabric,  of  four  and  five  stories  height,  which  were  consumed,  only 
one^  a  conspicuous  Salamander,  was  remaining ; — Benson's  fire- 
proof copper  store,  of  four  stories,  upon  No.  83  Water  street. 
There  it  stood  unscathed,  an  Oasis  in  the  surrounding  desert. 

It  was  passing  strange,  to  contemplate  in  one  view,  so  great  a 
mass  of  towering  architecture  as  528  houses  of  brick  and  granite, 
all  prostrated,  all  gone  down  into  their  own  tombs,  in  their 
several  cellars ;  or  in  some  cases  tumbling  into  the  narrow  streets, 
and  clogging  up  their  passage.  Here  and  there,  were  to  be  seen 
cragged  and  deformed  fragments  of  standing  walls,  some  of  one 
story — some  more  slender  and  lofty,  of  two  and  three  stories,  acting 
as  pointers  and  indices  to  the  ruined  area,  and  warning  the  in- 
quisitive explorer  like  myself,  to  beware  of  coming  within  the 
verge  of  their  expected  fall.  On  some  they  had  fallen  and  broken 
limbs,  even  while  I  was  there.  Amid  these  ruins,  guided  by  the 
remains  of  the  several  former  streets,  were  to  be  seen  continuous* 
lines  of  male  and  female  passengers,  come  in  holiday  clothes  from 
country  villages,  to  behold  the  catastrophe.  I  speak  of  them 
generally  as  strangers  ;  for  in  truth,  as  I  afterwards  ascertained, 
the  proper  inhabitants  of  New  York,  had  already  ceased  to  visit 
the  place,  as  an  afiair  of  worn-out  character  superseded  by  some- 
thing more  recent,  and  of  fresher  news.  Even  as  I  overheard 
some  gentlemen  near  the  place,  conversing  and  saying,  that 
"  usually  their  occasions  of  excitement  lasted  24  hours ;  but  here 
was  one  of  38  hours,  and  now  no  longer  such."  Truly,  this 
destruction  has  fallen  upon  men  of  peculiar  elasticity  of  spirit  and 
enterprise.  It  is  almost  wholly  upon  the  mercantile  class, 
accustomed  to  risk  and  chance,  and  who  are  habituated  to  recover 
from  mishaps  and  disasters.  They  were  very  generally  insured  ; 
and  so  generally  too,  that  the  chief  of  their  present  concern,  is  the 
probability  of  the  Insurance  companies  being  unable  to  divide 
more  than  an  average  of  fifty  per  cent.  Yet  losing  as  they  must, 
there  is  no  betrayal  of  heart-sorrow  in  the  countenances  of  the 
street  walkers,  nor  in  the  congregations  of  the  churches.  They 
still  look  wholly  like  their  former-selves ;  yea  more,  they  even 
give  to  other  charities ;  for  instance,  at  Dr.  Brodhead's  church 
where  I  was,  they  gathered  in  the  annual  collection  for  missionary 
purposes  320  dollars.     It  is  probable  that  two  thirds  of  all  the 


Jippendix,  371 

families  in  New  York,  might  themselves  become  liberal  contri- 
butors to  the  sufferers. 

I  visited  the  ruins  both  by  day  and  by  night,  spending  in  such 
observations,  from  one  to  two  hours  at  a  time.  It  was  sad  to  see 
the  cartloads  of  goods,  which  could  even  at  the  end  of  a  week  or 
ten  days  after  the  fire,  still  be  rescued  from  the  heated  cellars. 
Thus  great  piles  of  ready  roasted  coffee  was  brought  out ;  piece 
after  piece  of  calicoes  and  worsted,  scorched  and  smoking,  were 
drawn  out  of  others;  piles  of  prepared  tobacco  for  chewing; 
numerous  pigs  of  lead ;  masses  of  bar  iron,  and  iron  chains ;  cot- 
ton in  bales  burning  in  places  and  extinguished  in  others;  labour- 
ing men,  all  dingy  with  the  smut  of  the  fire,  working  in  many 
places  to  clear  away  the  rubbish  and  to  still  preserve  something 
from  the  flames. 

The  best  and  most  extensive  perspective  view  of  the  whole 
area,  was  to  be  seen  from  Coenties  slip,  looking  thence  across  to  the 
line  of  Wall  street  as  a  back  ground.  I  was  so  impressed  with  the 
utility  of  preserving  such  a  spectacle  for  people  at  a  distance,  and 
for  posterity,  that  I  immediately  suggested  to  Col.  Stone,  the 
editor  of  the  Commercial  Advertiser,  that  a  call  should  be  made 
for  some  one  or  two  lithographic  views  of  the  scene;  and  after  I 
returned  home,  I  directly  prompted  Mr.  Breton  to  go  on  and  en- 
deavour to  execute  them.  He  agreed,  but  soon  after  declined, 
because  of  the  proposed  diorama  of  the  same  by  Wright.  Still 
however,  the  print  is  a  desideratum. 

The  lurid  glare  of  the  night  spectacle,  seen  as  I  saw  it  on  the 
28th  of  December,  just  before  daylight,  was  awfully  impressive. 
Fires  of  smaller  dimensions  could  be  seen  every  here  and  there, 
of  goods  still  consuming,  and  affording  enough  of  illumination 
amidst  the  general  gloom,  to  show  thfe  explorer  his  path-way 
along  the  former  streets.  How  different  the  quiet  and  desolate 
scene,  from  its  recent  busy  mart  of  commerce.  I  met  no  indivi- 
dual, heard  no  voices,  and  had  the  whole  silence  and  solitude  to 
myself  I  sat  upon  a  heap  of  ruins  near  to  a  warming  fire,  and 
indulged  in  reveries  and  musings.  I  thought  of  Tyre  of  old, 
"  whose  merchants  were  princes,  and  whose  mansions  were 
palaces. ''\  I  thought  of  the  quickening  influences  of  commerce 
wherever  they  are  freely  indulged  and  not  ignorantly  fettered. 
I  thought  then  of  the  unwise  system  which  denied  to  foreign 
underwriters,  (like  the  Phoenix  Company  of  London,)  the  risk  of 
our  preservation,  and  reserved  to  themselves  the  sole  privilege  of 
being  responsible  for  the  calamities  of  their  own  people.  The 
practical  issue  is,  that  the  ruin  of  seventeen  millions  of  property, 
is  a  family  concern  of  a  whole  city,  wherein  all  are  mediately 
or  immediately  involved. 

Although  I  had  not  seen  the  actual  conflagration  which  began 
at  Comstock  and  Andrews'  store,  on  Merchant  street,  on  the  night 
of  Wednesday,  the  16th  of  December,  and  raged  through  all  the 


372  Appendix. 

next  day  until  Thursday  evening,  I  could  still  imagine  the  terrific 
and  appalling  picture  : — 

"  Could  see  her  flames  from  lofty  mansions  rise, 
And  send  their  eddying  columns  to  the  skies; 
Where  spreading  fire  makes  night  a  brighter  day, 
Nor  skill  nor  courage  can  its  fury  stay — 
The  richest  merchandize  of  every  name, 
The  worth  of  millions,  feed  the  flame, 
Jind  one  vast  ruin  meets  the  aching  eye." 

In  the  time  of  the  fire,  when  (iismay  and  confusion  were  at 
their  utmost  height,  great  prices  were  offered  and  given  for  help 
in  any  needed  form.  Twenty  dollars  were  given  for  a  single  cart 
load,  and  even  one  hundred  dollars  was  asked  and  given.  One 
merchant  on  South  street,  by  the  river  side,  who  saw  the  high 
extortion  on  those  who  had  not  their  own  carmen  at  hand,  offered 
and  actually  purchased  a  horse  and  cart  for  five  hundred  dollars, 
and  thereby  saved  his  own  property  of  ^80,000  by  removal.  My 
friends  Clark  and  Smith,  offered,  ofier  the  fire  had  consumed  their 
store,  one  hundred  dollars  to  sundry  bystanders,  working  men,  to 
pull  out  their  iron  chest ;  it  was  soon  done,  and  their  books  and 
even  notes,  were  all  saved,  although  so  charred  and  injured,  as  to 
be  necessary  to  transcribe  the  books. 

It  might  surprise  many  to  learn,  that  while  I  and  others,  tra- 
velled to  the  scene,  from  100  miles,  that  there  were  numerous 
persons  even  in  New  York  city,  who  never  waked  or  heard  of 
the  fire.  My  own  kinsman,  Mr.  B.,  up  town,  heard  of  some  cry 
of  fire  about  the  time  of  his  retiring  to  bed,  but  little  regarded  it ; 
and  he  and  his  wife  and  two  servants,  actually  slept  out  the  whole 
night  in  Bleecker  street,  without  knowing  that  there  had  been 
any  fire,  and  that  he  had  actually  lost  a  large  store  worth  ^2500 
a  year  rent. 

Some  others  of  my  friends,  near  Houston  street  and  Broadway, 
were  at  a  wedding  party,  and  although  they  heard  of  the  fire  at 
a  distance  at  nine  o'clock,  not  one  of  them  left  their  entertainment 
till  midnight ;  and  then  only  one  of  them  on  his  nearer  approach 
homeward,  saw  or  heard  enough  of  the  fire  to  influence  him  to 
go  on  to  the  place  of  desolation— there  in  his  gala  dress  and 
dancing  pumps,  he  had  to  set  to  work  earnestly  to  pack  up  his  store 
goods,  near  the  Exchange,  and  send  them  to  the  Battery  ground 
for  safety — he  eventually  lost  ^2000.  Three  of  the  other  guests 
went  home  to  rest,  and  never  heard  of  their  losses  until  the  next 
morning,  Avhen  they  found  that  their  stores  and  all  their  contents 
were  dissolved  in  fervent  heat. 

It  is  the  strangest  thing  to  contemplate,  that  nearly  600  houses 
of  the  loftiest  and  most  expensive  construction,  should  go  down  to 
absolute  ruins  in  so  short  a  space  of  time.  One  would  think  that 
the  hare  walls  might  be  found  standing ;  but  it  was  not  so.  It  is 
said  that  they  build  with  insufficient  width  of  wall  for  such  large 


Appendix,  373 

superstructures  of  four  and  five  stories;  and  above  all,  that  the 
cheaper  lime  which  they  have  preferred  from  Maine,  Rhode 
Island,  and  Albany,  &c.,  has  been  wholly  unequal  to  that  which 
Philadelphia  county  supplies  to  its  architecture.  The  granite  and 
marble  pillars  on  which  many  of  the  fronts  of  the  houses  rested, 
were  wholly  unable  to  sustain  the  action  of  fire  and  water ;  and 
fractured  and  rived  in  such  manner,  as  to  be  no  support  to  the 
walls  above  them.  The  narrowness  of  the  streets,  and  the  undue 
elevation  of  the  houses,  (a  sufficient  warning  to  us,)  prevented 
firemen  from  acting  with  effect.  These  circumstances,  while 
they  hindered  men  from  aiding,  greatly  increased  the  action  of  the 
heat,  so  that  such  an  intensity  of  fire,  has  never  been  surpassed. 
I  saw  china  stores  where  the  masses  of  broken  china  was  vitri- 
fied in  clusters,  zinc  and  copper,  from  roofs,  was  found  in  the 
drenching  form  of  gushing  water,  the  masses  of  nails,  screws,  &c. 
in  iron  stores,  were  partially  dissolved,  and  then  cooled  in  tmion, 
I  preserved  some  such  fragments,  and  I  also  brought  away  a  whole 
ewer,  which  had  endured  all  the  fire,  at  the  china  store  of  John 
Greenfield  and  sons,  in  Pearl  street,  close  to  where  a  china  store 
was  blown  up,  and  caused  the  arrest  of  the  fire  at  the  head  of  Coen- 
ties  slip,  on  Pearl  street. 

It  was  quite  interesting  to  see  numerous  temporary  signs, 
lettered  on  pieces  of  boards,  and  set  upon  poles  stuck  in  the  ruins, 
directing  visiters  where  to  find  the  former  occupants  of  the  places 
which  they  beheld.  They  were  equal  to  several  hundred  names. 
One  house  which  had  actually  lost  all,  and  without  insurance, 
waggishly  put  up  their  names  with  the  words  "the  remains  to 
be  found  at &c." 

The  grandest  and  most  imposing  views  of  the  great  fire,  were 
seen  from  Brooklyn,  Weehawken,  and  Staten  Island.  There  the 
whole  city  seemed  in  one  awful  sheet  of  flame,  and  the  sky  above 
was  inflamed  in  reflected  terror.  The  sea  waters  below,  were 
all  illuminated  with  fiery  glare.  On  one  occasion,  turpentine 
which  took  fire  on  the  wharf,  ran  down,  all  on  fire  into  the  water, 
and  floated  off",  making  a  blazing  sea  of  many  hundreds  of  yards 
square.  The  shipping  cut  off"  from  the  wharves  and  made  their 
escape  in  time,  else  their  destruction  would  have  been  entire ;  for 
the  very  wharf  logs,  and  wharf  posts,  along  the  river  side  of  South 
street,  130  feet  from  the  stores  consumed,  took  fire  and  burned 
to  destruction. 

The  illumination  of  this  great  fire  was  very  far  extended  south- 
ward ;  even  at  the  hills  of  Germantown,  100  miles  off",  and  at 
sundry  places  equally  distant  in  Jersey,  the  illumination  of  the 
atmosphere  was  witnessed  and  observed. 

The  number  of  fire-proof  iron  chests  and  safes,  hanging  to  count- 
ing-house walls,  or  lying  pell  mell  in  the  ruins,  and  bruised  and 
broken  into  useless  forms,  were  very  striking  evidences  of  their 
insufficiency  to  secure  the  possessors  from  loss  of  their  papers. 


ST4  Appendix. 

It  so  happens  that  this  dreadful  loss  has  occurred  exactly  in  that 
part  of  New  York,  of  primitive  location,  which  contained  the 
most  of  the  remaining  evidence  of  the  first  construction  of  narrow 
and  winding  streets,  such  as  the  earliest  Dutch  burghers  had 
located  and  enriched.  Their  last  remains  of  houses  had  been  but 
latel}'-  reconstructed  in  costly  grandeur ;  when  lo  !  in  one  fell 
night,  by  the  hands  of  some  incendiary,  (if  not  by  an  explosion 
of  a  gas  pipe,)  the  whole  area  of  the  primitive  settlement  of  the 
iriangvlar  and  mazy  city,  was  prostrated  in  ruins. 

Doubtless,  this  great  evil  will  eventually  turn  to  a  lasting  good 
— "  from  evil  educing  good."  The  new  city  to  be  erected  upon 
the  ancient  Dutch  plot,  will  be  framed  and  formed  upon  wider 
and  straighter  streets,  like  all  the  rest  of  the  city  now  is.  Thus 
the  reproach  of  the  former  model  will  be  obliterated,  and  an  en- 
tire city  of  graceful  construction  and  beauty,  will  be  erected ;  and 
all  this  for  the  consideration  of  leaving  some  of  the  present  gene- 
ration, minus  in  their  expected  fortunes ;  but  all  after  generations, 
beneficiaries. 

When  the  forefathers  of  the  present  race  of  inhabitants,  were 
sufferers  by  the  great  conflagrations  of  1776  and  1778,  they  felt 
as  if  ruin  was  perpetual;  but  behold  how  soon  the  evil  was 
healed,  and  what  was  severely  felt  as  a  partial  evil,  become  a 
miiversal  good.  The  fire  of  September,  1776,  which  began  on 
Whitehall  slip,  burned  up  all  the  houses  on  the  western  side  of 
Broad  street,  and  along  Broadway  down  to  the  North  river,  to 
the  number  of  493  houses;  and  the  next  fire  of  August,  1778, 
which  began  upon  Cruger's  wharf,  and  consumed  50  more  houses, 
devastated  in  the  whole,  all  that  part  of  old  New  York,  not 
included  in  the  present  ruin.  Thus  in  e^QoX,  finally  extinguish- 
ing and  obliterating,  all  the  houses  of  the  earliest  settlers  of  New 
York ;  and  forming  an  area  in  the  whole,  quite  equal  to  all  of 
the  Dutch  city  of  New  York,  which  was  originally  comprised 
within  the  limits  of  Wall  street,  northward,  and  the  Hudson  and 
East  rivers.  Their  loss  then,  though  the  houses  were  far  inferior 
in  value,  was  perhaps  greater  in  amount  of  individual  sufferings, 
than  now.  And  yet,  how  soon  did  their  sons  pass  by  the  loss, 
and  greatly  enrich  their  city  and  themselves. 

Farewell  now,  a  long  farewell  to  the  American  city  of  the 
Dutch — farewell  to  "the  Scout,  Burgomasters,  and  Schepens," 
no  longer  there ;  farewell  to  your  Rondeels  and  Stadt  Huys  ;  to 
your  compact  and  mazy  streets,  no  longer  to  be  named  in  fame 
or  song — farewell  forever  to  your  ancient,  but  now  burnt  out 
streets — Princess  street,  Duke  street.  Dock  street.  Mill  street,  and 
the  great  and  little  Queen  streets,  all — all  irrevocably  gone. 

The  former  sufferers,  unlike  the  present,  had  no  reclamations 
from  Fire  Insurance  Companies ;  but  now,  there  are  twenty-five 
Insurance  Companies,  with  a  capital  of  nine  millions,  and  with 
an  insurance  ad  infinitum.     This  last  consideration  of  boundless 


Appendix,  *  375 

risk^  has  been  their  ruin,  and  must  plead  for  a  reform  in  future, 
else  insurance  is  a  broken  reed — a  rope  of  sand. 

Some  insurances  were  made  out  of  New  York;  Tappan  had 
§300,000  in  London;  the  offices  in  Boston  had  §226,000  risk 
upon  the  destroyed  property. 

As  many  as  three  or  four  houses  were  blown  up  at  essential 
points,  to  stop  the  progress  of  the  flames.  This  measure  was  not 
resorted  to  sufficiently  early,  and  when  desired,  could  not  be 
efiected  for  want  of  powder.  A  vessel  however  lay  in  the  stream 
loaded  with  the  article,  unknown  to  the  citizens;  finally  Mr. 
Charles  King  volunteered  to  go  over  to  the  Navy  Yard  at  Brook- 
lyn, for  a  supply,  and  when  he  returned  with  sailors  and  marines, 
the  blowing  up  went  on  fearfully  and  successfully.  It  quickly 
struck  down  the  building,  and  left  no  flame,  nor  means  of  com- 
munication to  other  houses.  They  used  two  barrels  of  powder 
to  a  house. 

Much  fire  was  carried  aloft  through  the  air.  It  even  commu- 
nicated to  roofs  of  houses  at  Brooklyn ;  and  in  one  known  in- 
stance, a  letter  and  a  note  of  hand,  were  transferred  from  a  store 
on  South  street,  to  a  house  in  Flatbush,  five  miles  distant. 

Notwithstanding  all  these  losses,  about  which  the  pulpits  were 
soon  after  engaged  to  make  "  their  improvements^^  such  as 
preaching  from  texts  like  these — "  Is  there  evil  in  a  city,  and  the 
Lord  hath  not  done  it'' — "  And  think  ye  these  were  sinners  above 
all  the  rest  upon  whom  the  tower  of  Siloam  fell."  Yet  at  the 
same  time,  the  gaiety  and  expenses  of  others,  sons  and  daughters 
of  pleasure,  seemed  unabated.  Thus  the  gazettes  of  the  day  an- 
nounced, that  "the  Bowery  Theatre,"  on  Christmas  night, "had 
such  great  attractions,  that  nearly  four  hundred  persons  were 
unable  to  find  admission ;"  "  the  Franklin  Theatre  was  equally 
full  and  well  conducted."  "  The  lovers  of  sport  are  informed 
that  the  Long  Island  dance,  which  gained  such  unbounded  ap- 
plause on  the  evening  of  the  22nd  of  December,  is  now  to  be 
repeated  in  New  York,  on  the  evening  of  the  29th  of  December, 
at  the  Military  Hall."  At  the  same  time,  the  dexterous  thieves 
are  entering  several  of  the  houses  of  the  wealthy,  by  skeleton 
keys  of  great  ingenuity,  and  'bearing  off"  their  plate  and  jewels. 
The  rich  are  really  subjects  of  commiseration  in  New  York. 
They  have  to  live  in  such  costly  splendour,  with  such  ineflective 
"  helps ;"  and  have  such  sad  exposures  to  fire  beyond  other  cities, 
that  their  state  is  ill  at  rest  indeed.  These  merchants  of  New 
York  live  much  like  princes,  and  their  dwellings  are  constructed 
and  garnished  like  palaces.  They  essentially  live  up  to  the  adage 
of  "  win  gold  and  wear  it."  In  proportion,  however,  as  their 
honours  have  been  displayed,  they  have,  I  imagine,  diminished 
their  essential  comforts  and  fireside  enjoyments. 

It  specially  marks  the  peculiar  destruction  of  the  merchants' 
property,  as  a  class,  that  out  of  the  whole  528  houses  destroyed, 


376  Appendix. 

there  were  only  twelve  families  deprived  of  dwellings ! — thus 
showing  how  very  exclusively  the  merchants  had  supplanted  the 
former  Dutch  burghers,  and  crowded  their  closely  compacted 
stores,  into  one  single  cluster  of  business.  If  the  calamity  should 
serve  to  disperse  this  class  of  citizens  in  companies,  so  as  to  cast 
different  branches  of  trade  into  other  locations — a  thing  now  very 
practicable,  they  may  insure  a  rise  of  property  wherever  they 
may  conclude  to  fix  themselves,  equal  to  their  losses.  This  is 
well  worth  attention. 

It  is  very  remarkable,  that  while  Philadelphia  especially,  and 
numerous  other  cities,  have  been  forward  to  make  appropriations 
for  the  sufferers,  that  it  is  found  by  actual  examination  upon  the 
premises,  that  only  one  family  has  been  found  willing  to  accept 
of  public  charity.     It  is  certainly  very  strange. 

During  the  fire  Hanover  Square,  which  had  been  for  a  short 
time  sought  as  a  place  of  security  for  goods,  piled  up  in  the  street, 
equal  to  100  feet  in  length,  60  feet  in  width,  and  25  feet  high, 
came  at  last  to  be  totally  consumed ;  and  consisting  in  general 
of  the  choicest  and  richest  silks  and  laces,  &c. 

Midshipman  Wilkins,  the  son  of  a  chivalric  father,  covered 
himself  with  glory,  in  rescuing,  at  the  peril  of  his  life,  an  infant 
of  a  poor  woman,  whom  he  found  crying  in  the  street  for  succour. 
What  a  fine  subject  for  grateful  remembrance!  He  had  been 
cashiered  for  insubordination,  but  President  Jackson,  upon  hear- 
ing of  this  fact,  reinstated  him. 

This  fire  has  necessarily  arrested  many  intended  fashionable 
parties  for  the  winter,  and  made  a  blank  in  many  of  the  expected 
profits  in  the  confectionary  establishments.  It  seems  too  auda- 
cious, to  be  unseasonably  gay. 

Alarms  of  fire  occurred  every  night  whilst  I  tarried  in  New 
York,  and  I  could  not  but  remark,  how  very  little  concern  people 
manifested  for  any  fire  which  did  not  seem  to  be  near.  This  is 
one  of  the  evils  of  an  overgrown  city,  as  New  York  already  is, 
although  the  pride  and  ambition  of  its  citizens  will  make  them  to 
cover  the  whole  island,  as  an  area  of  1 3,000  acres.  What  a  city  ! 
and  yet  all  the  lots  have  been  measured  and  sold,  again  and  again, 
with  speculation.  It  is  now  a  fact,  that  while  the  large  and  ex- 
pensive stores,  which  occupied  the  burnt  premises,  produced  rents 
of  two  to  four  thousand  dollars  a  year,  that  the  same  merchants 
who  used  them,  had  their  dwellings  a  mile  off,  in  fashionable 
grandeur;  and  while  there,  enjoying  otium  cum  dignitate,  they 
can  neither  know  nor  take  any  interest  in  the  destruction  of  their 
active  capital,  located  in  the  "business  quarter.  This  extremity 
in  their  case,  calls  for  reform. 

A  fire  which  consumed  two  large  stores,  and  occasioned  a  loss 
of  5^70,000,  was  perpetrated  by  an  incendiary,  the  night  before 
the  great  fire.  Even  the  latter  is  quite  as  likely  to  have  been 
from  such  a  cause,  as  from  the  supposed  (but  unknown)  accident 


*^ppendix,  377 

of  a  gas-pipe  explosion.  It  is  only  conjectured  ;  and  at  any  rate, 
the  possibility  of  bursting  such  pipes  and  devastating  a  whole  city, 
is  worth  the  timely  and  serious  attention  of  Philadelphians,  before 
they  go  too  far  in  imitation  of  this  foreign  invention  and  embel- 
lishment, as  it  is  called.  We  may  take  solemn  warning  too,  and 
shun  the  pernicious  imitation  of  four  and  five  storied  houses, 
producing  nothing  but  ugly  deformity  in  the  perspective — with  no 
adequate  counterbalancing  advantage. 

If  one  could  know  all  the  cases  of  suffering  by  the  calamity, 
we  should  perhaps  find  it  too  often  among  quiet  and  unobtrusive 
widows,  females,  and  orphans,  who  had  their  investments  in  the 
Fire  Insurance  Companies,  where  the  long  tide  of  successful  reve- 
nues and  consequent  high  dividends  of  nine  per  cent,  made  them 
a  favourite  investment.  Such  persons  must  pay  over  their  little 
all  to  the  covered  merchants  and  traders ;  for  these,  be  it  remarked, 
have  been  remarkably  tenacious  of  keeping  their  current  interests 
insured.  I  know  one  case  of  a  widowed  lady,  a  loser  of  ^^5000, 
and  of  her  grand-daughter  another  ^3000  more.  In  another 
family,  three  maidens  and  elderly  women,  orphans  too,  had  their 
whole  interest  in  insurance  stock,  and  were  weeping  themselves 
sick,  with  apprehension  and  evil  forebodings,  after  others  had 
settled  down  to  composure.  Some  persons  would  inculcate  that 
all  this  calamity  was  a  premeditated  and  purposed  evil,  inflicted 
by  a  Divine  hand,  and  employing  as  its  agent,  an  incendiary  cul- 
prit. But  if  so,  where  is  the  discrimination  among  the  sufferers 
— the  evil  and  the  good  are  equally  involved,  and  even  the  Dutch 
church  itself,  erected  to  the  worship  of  God,  is  among  the  ruins. 
Why  not  rather  say,  in  the  language  of  the  Proverbs,  that  "  time 
and  chance  happeneth  to  all  men,"  and  that  it  is  the  province 
of  divine  interposition,  "frorh  evil  to  educe  good," — good  to  those 
who  will  improve  the  occasion  to  note  the  uncertain  tenure  of  the 
best  earthly  goods,  and  to  lay  up  their  treasure  where  thieves 
(like  fire)  do  not  break  through  and  harm ;  or  else  evil  to  those, 
who  utterly  overlook  the  lessons  which  the  losses  and  crosses  of 
life  should  bestow  to  those  that  are  exercised  thereby.  But  this 
is,  perhaps,  speculating  on  religious  premises,  where  I  have  no 
licensed  charter  for  my  opinion. 


48  2  I  2 


378  Supplemental  Notes, 


SUPPLEMENTAL  NOTES. 


The  cause  of  so  much  unparalleled  havoc,  was  that  of  a  fierce 
wind — felt  equally  all  the  way  to  Philadelphia,  which  was  blow- 
ing from  the  north-west  during  all  the  night ;  and  besides  this, 
the  weather  was  too  intensely  cold,  to  admit  of  a  due  use  of  the 
engines  and  hose.  In  many  places  firemen  could  be  seen  beating 
their  hose  to  prevent  the  formation  of  ice  within  them. 

It  was  impossible  to  find  firemen  reckless  enough  to  ascend 
ladders,  which  might  be  raised  to  the  eves  of  houses,  of  four  and 
five  stories — and  in  narrow  streets,  the  water  played  so  high, 
necessarily  fell  back  upon  the  people  below.  In  such  extremities, 
men  had  to  stand  useless  gazers  upon  the  destruction  of  their 
property. 

Seventeen  blocks,  (squares,)  containing  houses  of  the  largest 
and  most  costly  construction,  were  consumed  m  one  night.  What 
an  awful  picture  of  the  Great  Assize,  "  when  the  elements  shall 
melt  with  fervent  heat !" 

Explosions  were  often  heard,  resulting  sometimes  purposely 
from  the  use  of  gunpowder,  and  in  other  cases  from  the  bursting 
of  liquor  casks,  and  from  the  presence  of  gunpowder  held  for  sale. 
These  when  they  occurred,  were  subjects  of  indescribable  grandeur 
and  terror — it  set  every  bosom  upon  the  qui  vive. 

How  wonderful,  that  in  so  much  just  cause  of  personal  appre- 
hension and  danger,  only  one  person  should  have  been  wounded, 
and  one  other  missing. 

It  was  somewhat  peculiar  that  the  fire  travelled  so  readily  to 
ivindward,  so  that  those  who  conveyed  their  goods  and  stored 
them  for  safety  in  the  Merchants'  Exchange,  and  the  old  Dutch 
church,  should  have  had  them  overtaken,  even  there,  by  the  con- 
suming element,  and  wholly  burned.  The  best  refuge  was  found 
in  the  Bowling  Green  and  Battery,  where  marine  guards  with 
fixed  bayonets,  gave  them  protection. 

The  several  streets,  after  the  fire,  were  seen  for  several  days, 
choked  up  with  rich  merchandizes — all  trampled  under  foot,  and 
almost  totally  ruined.  In  short,  thousands  upon  thousands  of 
dollars  in  value,  were  lying  wasted  and  whelmed  in  ruin. 

Wall  after  wall,  were  seen  or  heard  tumbling  like  avalanches 
to  the  ground,  while  flames  were  darting  their  tongues  of  fire, 
and  were  heard  roaring  from  roofs  and  windows,  along  whole 
streets.  At  the  same  time,  firemen  worn  out  with  over  exertion, 
were  still  struggling  for  mastery  over  the  storm  of  fire,  which 


Supplemental  Notes.  379 

seemed  to  revel  in  its  power,  and  to  mock  all  human  skill  and 
prowess. 

The  next  day,  all  the  city  military  were  put  under  requisition, 
to  be  ready  to  protect  property  exposed,  and  to  aid  the  civil  au- 
thorities in  the  preservation  of  order  and  the  civil  rule. 

It  was  curious  to  see  occasionally,  the  harvest  which  occurred 
to  the  poor,  and  to  strolling  boys  and  girls.  You  could  see  the 
rag  gatherers,  crowding  their  sacks  with  scorched  fragments  of 
cotton  and  silk  stuffs.  In  one  place  was  the  remains  of  a  jeweller's 
store,  in  which  ragged  boys  and  girls  were  very  busy  searchino- 
for  sundry  trinkets.  At  the  china  stores,  men,  women,  and  chil^ 
dren,  were  engaged  raking  among  broken  china  and  queensware, 
for  small  articles  unbroken.  In  one  such  place,  I  saw  and  pur- 
chased, as  a  relic,  an  ewer  in  good  state. 

It  seems  strange,  that  so  great  a  fire  should  not  have  been  re- 
ported by  any  vessel  arriving,  as  having  been  observed  at  sea. 

One  can  see  upon  the  eves  of  the  northern  side  of  Wall  street, 
that  several  houses  there,  were  intensely  scorched  with  the  fire 
from  the  opposite  side  of  that  street.  What  an  awful  career  it 
must  have  run,  had  it  succeeded  to  pass  that  barrier.  Even  the 
eves  of  the  Tontine  Coftee-house,  so  very  high,  and  at  least  130 
feet  from  the  opposite  buildings,  were  quite  scorched  and  charred 
with  the  flames.  Houses  up  by  the  Exchange,  had  even  their 
marble  eves  pealed  and  marred. 

In  naming  sundry  streets  of  olden  time  recollection,  and  bidding 
them  a  \diSi  farewell,  [vide  page  374,]  the  mind  is  led  to  consider 
how  very  strange  it  is,  that  even  these  first  known  names,  should 
be  all  of  English  formation  and  origin,  and  that  there  should  bo 
so  little  remains  of  Orange  Boven  and  the  Fader  land,  retained 
by  tradition  or  otherwise,  of  what  must  have  been  the  first  named 
streets  in  Nieuw  Amsterdam.  The  Hxre  Graft,  once  the  name 
of  what  is  since  the  Broad  street,  and  which  was  once  literally 
"the  Gentleman's  canal,"  until  ordered  to  be  filled  up  in  1676; 
and  the  Flatten  barrack,  near  it,  which  imported  the  sliding- 
down  hill  for  the  sledding  boys  and  girls  of  the  Dutch  race ;  and 
the  Nassau  street,  which  joined  to  and  continued  the  Broad  street, 
are  the  sole  names  of  Dutch  origin  which  have  come  down  to  us. 

An  inspector  of  mason  work  has  been  talked  of,  also  an  intended 
restriction  upon  the  elevation  of  houses,  so  as  not  to  exceed  40 
feet.  Insurance  offices  too,  have  needed  legislative  checks,  so 
as  not  to  insure  illimitably. 

When  I  saw  such  masses  of  fallen  walls,  say  of  at  least  500 
houses  at  once,  the  bricks  therein  so  much  dissevered  by  the  in- 
considerate use  of  lime  of  secondary  formation,  it  made  me 
remember  the  much  more  durable  condition  of  those  "  seventeen 
houses"  of  brick  and  stone,  fired  by  the  British  in  the  revolution, 
between  Philadelphia  and  Germantown,  and  which  sustained 
their  bare  walls  undiminished,  as  the  people  may  remember,  for 


380  Supplemental  Notes. 

twenty  and  thirty  years  after  the  event ;  in  short  until  they  were 
picked  down  by  sledge  and  pick.  Should  they  condescend  to 
try  our  Plymouth  lime,  they  may  find  it  to  their  lasting  future 
benefit. 

The  New-Yorkers  will  hardly  conceive  of  the  interest  which 
their  fire  will  afford  to  others.  They  will  probably  omit  the  oc- 
casion to  draw  the  perspective  of  the  scene  as  it  was ;  and  it  will 
be  only  after  it  is  too  late  to  draw  it  from  actual  observation,  that 
any  attempt  will  be  made  to  give  to  persons  at  a  distance,  and  to 
future  visiters,  and  to  their  own  posterity,  the  chance  of  seeing 
by  delineation,  the  things  as  they  were.  What  men  can  see  every 
day  as  a  spectacle,  seems  for  the  time  of  little  worth  to  them,  but 
there  is  a  generation  to  come,  which  will  "  earnestly  desire  to 
look  into  these  things.^' 

It  shall  come  to  this  hereafter,  that  they  who  have  seen  the 
catastrophe  of  New  York,  like  those  who  may  have  seen  that  of 
Moscow,  may  go  half  a  head  taller  among  their  cotemporaries. 
It  was  the  thing  of  a  century. 

Only  think  of  human  ingenuity  to  gain  a  penny !  I  saw  a 
shanty  tavern  of  rough  boards,  actually  erected  amid  the  ruins, 
close  by  Hanover  Square,  and  plenty  of  customers  too, — even 
without  a  license. 

The  total  loss  by  this  great  fire,  has  been  eventually  reported 
by  the  ofiicial  examining  committee,  at  the  sum  total  of  17  mil- 
lions; being  4  millions  for  houses,  and  13  millions  for  goods. 
There  is  however  some  mystification  in  this  report,  which  moves 
our  special  wonder,  leaves  us  in  the  dark,  and  makes  the  whole 
uncertain  still.  It  is  stated  that  528  houses  were  consumed  ;  but 
out  of  all  these,  only  129  houses  are  positively  certified  as  to  their 
value ;  and  these  are  set  down  at  ly%  millions,  and  their  goods  at 
6-J  milUons  ;  thus  making  these  129  cases  which  is  but  about  one 
fifth  of  the  total,  to  be  worth  in  value,  the  half  of  the  whole 
loss ;  and  at  the  same  time,  exactly  insured  for  precisely  the 
same  total  value.  What  a  very  queer  result!  If  stated  in  figures 
in  round  numbers,  it  would  stand  thus,  viz : 

129  houses,  at  ^14,000,  is  ig  1,800,000 

398       "       at       5,000,  2,200,000 

527  4,000,000 

129  stocks  of  goods,  at  ^50,000,  6,500,000 

398      "                                16,000,  6,500,000 

527              ,  5^17,000,000 

Such  seems  to  be  the  result ;  but  can  it  be  true,  that  houses 
could  possibly  cost  an  average  sum  of  ^14,000  apiece.  In  Phi- 
ladelphia, we  know  it  to  be  a  fact,  that  four  storied  brick  houses 
are  built  by  contract  for  about  83,000.  Some  on  High  street  are 
constructed  at  that  price ;  and  Wistar's  range,  with  copper  roofs 


Supplemental  Notes.  381 

and  granite  foundations,  of  18  by  75  feet  dimensions,  and  of  best 
finish  throughout,  were  done  for  g»4,100  severally. 

It  was  not  till  after  the  water  gave  out,  say  at  4  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  that  they  resorted  to  blowing  up  houses.  They  used 
two  barrels  of  100  pound  each,  to  each  cellar,  and  then  laid  planks 
from  them  to  the  cellar  door,  laid  over  with  straw,  in  which 
plenty  of  powder  was  sprinkled  ;  the  straw  came  out  beyond  the 
cellar  door.  This  last  had  no  powder  in  it,  but  a  firebrand — all 
the  doors  and  windows  were  closed.  It  showed  no  fire  in  blowing 
up — but  lifted  up  and  fell,  and  giving  the  earth  a  shake. 

The  place  on  Old  slip,  the  "  Market ^^  was  all  a  water  dock 
when  I  first  saw  New  York.  I  went  up  in  a  vessel  above  Water 
street.  I  went  up  then  m/o  the  city,  just  as  Coenties  slip  still 
remains  a  water  dock,  to  about  Water  street. 

Sales  of  Real  Estate  by  Jas.  Bleecker  &  Sons,  Feb.  23,  1836—- 

at  their  Sales  room,  1 3  Broad  street.    The  Real  Estate  of  the 

late  Joel  Post. 
1  lot  on  Wall  street,  corner  Exchange  Place,  28  feet  6 

inches  by  63  feet  6  inches, ^66,500 

1  lot  on  Wall  street,  adjoining  above,  19  feet  by  28  feet,  55,750 
1  lot  on  Exchange  street,  30  feet  5  inches  by  54  feet,  46,500 

1  lot  on  Exchange  street,  29  feet  7  inches  by  52  feet  9 

inches, 41,000 

1  lot  on  Exchange  street,  20  feet  4  inches  by  45  feet 

deep,  running  to  a  point,       -        .'        -        -        .     18,100 
1  lot  corner  of  William  street  and  Exchange  Place,  2S 

feet  11  inches  by  52  feet  5  inches,  -        -        -    46,500 

1  lot  next  but  one  adjoining,  39  feet  2  inches  by  40  feet,  38,750 
1  lot  on  William  street,  next  to  corner  of  Wall  street,  17 

feet  2  inches  front,  11  feet  rear,  and  60  feet  deep,     25,000 
1  lot  on  Exchange  Place,  32  feet  9  inches  front  by  55 

feet  deep, 36,500 

1  lot  adjoining,  26  feet  2  inches  by  66  feet,  28,250 

1  lot  in  rear,  on  Merchant  street,  23  feet  6  inches  by  ^2 

feet,    -         -         - 24,250 

1  lot  fronting  on  Exchange  Place  and  Merchant  street, 

20  feet  5  inches  by  91  feet, 45,500 

Hot  20  feet  6  inches    ?  ^y  88  feet,       -        -        -        -    47,500 

23  leet  J 

1  lot  adjoining,  20  feet  6  inches  >  ,     ^^  ^  _        _    33  5^^ 

24  feet  S 

1  lot  20  feet  6  inches,  J  ,      g^  ^^^^        ....     37,750 

24  feet  S 

1  lot  20  feet  5  inches  on  Exchange  Place,  24  feet  on 

Merchant  street,  and  60  feet  deep,  44,250 

1  lot  corner  of  Exchange  street  and  Pearl  street,  19  feet 

11  inches  front,  by  65  feet, 32,500 


382  Supplemental  Notes, 

Amount  brought  forward,  -        -        -        -i^ 6 7 3, 100 

1  lot  on  Pearl  street,  20  feet  by  67  feet,         .         .         .     29,500 
1  lot  rear  on  Exchange  Place,  28  feet  by  64  feet,  33,000 

1  lot  corner  Exchange  Place  and  Merchant  street,  28 

feet  7  inches  front,  38  feet  7  inches  rear,  by  64  feet,    35,500 

^771,100 

From  such  sales,  effected  so  soon  after  the  great  disaster,  we 
may  see  plainly  enough,  how  little  the  burnt  district  was  impaired 
in  value ;  and  how  much,  men  of  capital  regarded  the  removal 
of  former  houses,  as  an  improvement  to  the  locality,  and  as  an 
advantage  to  the  whole  city  at  large. 


PARTICULAR    INDEX, 


Amsterdam,  New,  10,  11,  44,  149. 
Albany,  14,  40-1,  45,  61,  127,   138,  222, 

316. 
Albanians,  19,  221-2,  269. 
Apparel,  13,  26,  170,  247,  352. 
Adams,  J.  Q.,  84. 
Amalgamation,  223. 
Argol,  Sir  Samuel,  229. 
Aspasia,  corvette,  241. 
Anne,  Queen,  46,  60,  63,  220. 
Allen,  Col.,  47. 
Abercrombie,  General,  47,  349. 
Alden,  Col.,  71. 
American  character,  91-2,  95. 
American  army,  325,  329. 
Allegiance,  oath,  150. 
Apprentices,  257, 
Aged,  268,  276-7,  281,  289,294,  312,  345, 

358. 
Amherst,  General,  272. 
Andre,  Major,  325,  348. 
Ancient  memorials,  154,  314. 
Ancient  Edifices,  350. 
Alliance,  fi-igate,  291,  343-4. 
Astor,  John  J.,  51,  310,  362. 
Andros,  Gov.,  156,  233. 
Andros,  Rev.  Thomas,  338.  ■" 

Amboy,  270-1,321. 
Avon,  83,  86. 
Arnold,  Gen.,  76,  347-8. 
Anglo-Saxon  race,  93-4,  218. 
Aurora,103. 
Amusements,  193-4. 
Auctioneers,  283. 
Ashburton,  Lord,  105. 

Battery  andCapsey,  11, 148,  161, 163,  172, 

179,  198,  301. 
Bayard,  44,  62,  152,  176,  273. 
Bayard's  mount  and  woods,  176,  273,  341. 
Ballstown,  45. 
Backus,  Rev.  Azel,  53,  126. 
Brant,  Colonel,  66-7,  69,  71,  76,  125. 
Bath  and  Batavia,  81. 
Bradford  Wm.,  147,  229,  286-7,  298. 
Basse  Bouwery,  160. 
Bakewell's  city  view,  185. 
Banks,  186. 
Basin,  353. 
Blazing  star,  188. 
Balls,  267,  273. 
Bake-house,  276. 
Blackbeard,  290. 
Bever-Wyck,  15. 
Bear  market,  177. 


Bears,  31,60,  55,  70,  77,  79,  88,  100,  104, 

136,  233. 
Bellermont,  Lord,  36,  171,  183,  352. 
Beavers,  45,  70,  82,  232,  253. 
Becker,  Lieut.,  66. 
Beekman,  161,  187,  246,  267,  296. 
Bleekers,  311. 

Benson,  Judge  E.,  191,  277. 
Bees,  231. 
Bells,  355. 
Beads,  253. 

Breeches,  leather,  283. 
Breevort,  Henry,  310. 
Bergen's  land,  311. 
British  officers,  330,  340,  346,  352. 
British  fleet,  272,  325,  330,  339. 
British  rule,  11,  20,  58,  94,  118,  184,  205, 

235,  308,  325,  333. 
Big  Spring,  82. 
Brighton,  83. 
Binghamton,  102. 
Bridges,  85. 
Birthday,  279,  282. 
Bishops,  283,  297. 
Birds,  20,21. 

Block  and  Christianse,  10,  41. 
Block  houses,  27,  63,  161,  176. 
Brockholst,  Gov.,  24. 
Bogardus  and  Bogerts,  30,  82,  149,  152-3, 

172,  184,  205,  269,  274,  294. 
Bownes,  36,  165,  347. 
Brown,  John  W.,  31,  60. 
Bouwlandt,  32. 

Brooklyn,  34,  172,  311,  328,  335,  341. 
Bos,  45. 
Brownists,  48. 
Border  wars,  55,  137. 
Broadhead,  155,  315. 
Brower,  Abram,  172,  245,  261,  292,  295, 

325. 
Broadway,  179,  182,  192,  270,  275,  340, 

359. 
Broad  street,  188,  199,  310. 
Boston  frigate,  209. 
Bouwerys,  167,  225,  245,  270,  275-6,  277, 

298. 
Brokers,  353. 
Bonnets,  250. 
Boots,  254,  255. 
Bowdoin,  James,  299. 
Boston,  306,  312. 
Buffalo,  31,  55,  138,  140. 
Butlers,  Cols.,  58,  71-2,  76-6. 
Burgoyne,  Gen,,  76. 
Bunker  Hill,  176,  193,  334. 


384 


Particular  Index. 


Buttermilk  channel,  189. 
Buttons,  251,270,277. 
Blue  points,  292. 
Butter,  292. 
Burling  slip,  296. 
Bull's  head,  298. 
Burr,  Col.  A.,  339. 

Chamber  of  commerce,  284. 

Chambers  street,  176,  353. 

Changes  of  prices,  292. 

Carriages,  278. 

Canada  creek,  50. 

Canandaigua,  50,  54,  82,95-6,  104,  119. 

Canals,  60,55-6,  104,  136,  137-8. 

Canal  street,  181,245. 

Canajoharie,  67. 

Caughnawaga,  Qo-Q,  118. 

Caves,  67. 

Campbell's  New  York,  72,  93,  117,  120, 

219. 
Campbell,  Col.  S.,  71. 
Claus,  Col.,  56,  65,  75. 
Caladonia,  82. 

Cayuga,  86,  88,  102,  117,  120,  139. 
Carlton,  Sir  George,  346. 
Carmen,  157. 
Canvas  Town,  172. 
Chatham,  Earl,  174-5,  183,  202,  307. 
Charlotte  Temple,  225. 
Carpets,  259,  261,  269,  271. 
Capsey,  263. 

Cherry  Valley,  65,  70,  72. 
Cleveland,  78. 
Chew,  Benj.,  79. 
Chemung,  119. 
Children,  19, 
Circus,  193-4. 
Clinton,  53,  136,  347. 
Clinton,  Sir  H.,  334-5,  340,  346,  349. 
China,  first  voyage,  300. 
City  Halls,  12,  176,  179,  182,  237,  350-1. 
Colonization,  10,  11,  42. 
Colve,  Gov.,  12,  166. 
Coenties  slip,  12,  161,  171,  276. 
Cornwallis,  Lord,  349. 
Communipaw,  9,  38,  202,  358-9. 
Comets,  24,  293. 
Cromwell,  35,  106,  227. 
Corlear,  26,  297,  317,  341. 
Corlear's  Hook,  245,  275. 
Cochran,  Doct.,  49. 
Coney  island,  37. 
Cord  du  roi  roads,  77. 
Cooper,  J.  F.,  73. 
Coventry,  Doct.,  86. 
Colles,   Christopher,    137. 
Cohoes  falls,  139. 
Collect,  145,  173,  181,  192,  199,  244,  246, 

265,273,279,299,331. 
Cornelissen,  Arien,  160. 
Courtships,,  169,  211. 
Congress  Hall,  179,  351-2. 
Columbia  college,  192. 
Coffins,  183.         Cows,  199. 
Colden,  Gov.,  201,266. 
Commerce,  234-5,  312. 
Cloaks,  254. 


Coaches,  260-1,278,308. 

Colleges,  265-6,  283. 

Cotton  goods,  270. 

Copper  mines,  273. 

Crowell,  Thos.,  286. 

Courtezans,  265. 

Common  council,  276. 

Crockeser,  John,  276-7, 

Clover,  266. 

Convicts,  283. 

Continental  money,  321-2. 

Cowfoot  hill,  284,  294. 

Cholera,  299. 

Colonial  times,  308. 

Cold,  extreme,  306. 

Conclusion,  366. 

Custom  houses,  353. 

Churchmen,  106,  283. 

Churches,  15,  30,  44,  50,  63,  66,   69,  91, 

153,  165,  191,  200,  266,  316,  353. 
Custick,  David,  125. 
Curricles,  271. 
Cruger's  dock,  278,  296. 
Cunningham,  of  Provost,  282,  327. 
Custis,  Geo.  W.,  301. 

Dayton,  Col.,  75, 

Drake,  Adam,  79. 

Dancing,  204,  210,  212,  267,  280,  285. 

Delaware  river,  38. 

Delawares,  9,  38,  115. 

De  Collieres,  27. 

Deer,  31,  50,  70,  84,  100,  284. 

Delancy's,  174,  275. 

Denton,  Dan.,  230. 

Dress,  212-3,  247,  252,  255-6,  264,  267, 

285,  299,  308,  352. 
Dentists,  281,  283-4, 
Dean,  Captain,  300. 
Diet,  17,  211,  217,  233,  276,  292,  315. 
"  Drives,"  100. 
Dinondadies,  118. 
Dwight,  Rev.  Dr.,  332. 
Digby,  Admiral,  346. 
Domines,  20,  30,  170. 
Doctors,  178,  267,  277,  283,  298. 
"  Doctors  riot,"  298. 
Drover's  inn,  245. 
Duke  of  York,  11. 
Dutch,  11,  12,  13,  16,  26,  30,  33-4,  44,60, 

114,  147,  150,  164,  167,  172,  203,  207, 

229,  232,  238,  256,  308-9,  316,  355,  357, 

363. 
Dunlap,  Rev.  S.,  71. 
Dunlap,  Wm.,    122,  155,  161,    183,  187, 

198,  202. 
Dunmore,  Gov.,  172,  285. 
Dutch  reformed,  165,  200. 
Drummond,  Lord,  284. 
Dutch  forefathers,  309,  354. 
Duels,  288. 
Duten's,  Charles,  263. 
Ducks,  175. 

Earl  of  Chatham,  184,  280,  307. 
Early  notices  of  New  York,  230. 
Eastburn,  Rev.  Joseph,  305. 
Edwards,  Rev.  T.,  107. 


ST- 


Particular  Index. 


385 


Executions,  297. 

England,  312. 

Exchange,  the,  266,  271,  353. 

Elections,  225. 

Ebbets,  Danl.  J.,  178,  353. 

English,  16,  20,  31,  232. 

Elmira,  103. 

Erie  Canal,  136. 

Esopus,  46. 

Exploring  voyages,  241,  300. 

Education,  17,  21. 

Fanning,  Edward  and  Nathaniel,  240,  344, 

«  Flatten-barrack,"  188. 

Franklin  house,  300. 

Franklin,  341. 

Fairs,  285. 

Farms  and  gardens,  245,  273,  277,  285. 

Flag,  American,  343,  345. 

French  war,  50,  59,  70,  77,  107,  118,  161. 

French  revolution,  209. 

French,  27,  28,  33-4,  50,  118,  153,  188, 

209,  210,  219,  229,  273,  312,  335,  354. 
Ferry,  162,  172,  176,  182,  310. 
French  Protestant  church,  354. 
Federal  Hall,  351. 
Federal  procession,  239. 
Fevers,  86-7,  190,  298. 
Fletcher,  Gov.,  161,  314. 
Freemen,  158, 
Festivals,  204,  279. 

Friends,  36,  44,  150,  177,  202,  305,311. 
Fish,  37,  91,  114-15,  178-9,  278,  292. 
"First-born,"  42,  54,  61. 
Fitzhugh,  Col.,  82. 

Fitch  and  Fulton,  129,  130,  137,  242,  244. 
Fire  companies,  157,  163,  166,  281. 
Five  Nations,  117. 
Fires,  great,  197,  295,  309,  333,  341,  and 

appendix. 
First  discoverers,  229. 
Forts,  11,  12,  14,  27,  34,  43,  47,  63,  77, 

80,  146,  172,  219,  233,  329,  330. 
"  Fort  Plain,"  58,  68-9. 
Frontiers,  98,  100. 
Flour,  159. 
Flowers,  232. 
Fox,  George,  165. 
Foreigners,  300,  354. 
Flood,  306 

Fort  Washington,  329,  330-1. 
Fulton,  Robert,  312. 
Fur  trade,  10,  11,51-2,  146. 
Flushing  36,  165,  202. 
Furniture,  211,  214,  215,  258,  278. 
Funerals,  205-6,  208,  234,  270,  284,  308. 
Fry,  Col.,  50,  76. 

Game,  19,31,50,77,292. 

Grant,  Mrs.,  17,  23,  59,  69,  77,  121,  220. 

Gardiner,  family  and  island,  35-6,  46,  314, 

Grapes,  9,  44. 

Gravesend,  35. 

Gazettes,  55,  173, 199,  262,  269,  277,  287, 

312. 
Gansevoort,  Col.,  76. 
Gardens,  98,  245,  275,  285,  341. 
Grand  canal,  136,  138. 
49 


Graydon,  Capt.,  170,  329. 

Garden  Alley,  182,  196. 

Gaine,  Hugh,  188,  263. 

Gates,  Gen.  Horatio,  201,  256. 

Gage,  Gen.,  282,  284,  346. 

Germans,  46,  60,  73,  207,  220,  340. 

German  Flats,  73. 

Geneva,  54,  82,  86. 

Genessee,  54,  80,  119. 

Greenwich,  173,  178,  192,  268,  271. 

Greyhound,  sloop  war,  228. 

Great  Western  steamer,  241. 

Green,  Capt.,  300. 

Grim,  David,  183.  246,  283,  294,  297. 

Gibbet,  297. 

Gist  and  Washington,  303. 

Grouse,  31. 

Gowanus,  35,  148. 

Governor's  Island,  38,  44,  172,  189. 

Godfrey's  Quadrant,  263. 

Growth  of  our  country,  312. 

Gouge,  Mrs.,  291. 

Half-moon,  bark,  9,  14. 

Hasbrook  house,  48. 

Harpers,  58,  64-5,  71,  287. 

Harpers'  Press,  287. 

Hanford's  landing,  83. 

Hair  dressing,  216,  248-9. 

Hamiltons,  225,  287,  298,  313. 

Harponding,  S.,  244. 

Hats,  253,  278. 

Harvey,  Rev.  Benj.,  291. 

Hancock,  John,  299. 

Havre  packets,  311. 

Hessians,  327,  340. 

Heckewelder,  10,  38. 

Hell  gate,  41. 

Herkimer  and  Fort,  50,  63,  60,  73. 

Herkimer,  Gen.,  73,  76. 

Hills,  145. 

Historical   Society,    183,    185,   217,   224, 

227. 
Holland,  10,  48. 
Hospital,  245. 
Houses,  16,  35,  45,  55,  67,  88,  98,  147, 

182,  200,  232,  238,  350,  362. 
Holland  land  co.,  64,  81. 
"  Holland  papers,"  316. 
Howe's  cave,  67. 
Horses,  61,  63,  167,  234,  260. 
Hoops,  250,  264, 
Hotels,  89-90,  306. 
Holt's  Hotel,  306. 
Howe,  Gen.  325-6,  341,  347,  349. 
Hoffman,  C.F.,  217. 
Hodgson,  Robt.,  150. 
Hudson  city,  39,  48. 
Hudson  river,  10,  37,  40. 
Hudson,  the  discoverer,  9,  10,  11,  38,  41, 

229. 
Hunter,  Fort,  50,  63,  66. 
Hudson's  square,  186,  294. 
Hutchins,  John,  244. 
Hutton,  John  S.,  289. 
Hustan,  John,  297. 
Hughs,  Joseph  R.,  291. 

2K 


Particular  Index, 


Inhabitants,  45,  230-1. 

Inland  settlers  and  pioneers,  95.. 

Inauguration    of   President    Washington, 

352. 
Ireland,  283. 

Impressment,  163,  201,  269. 
Ice,  242. 

Incidents  of  the  revolutionary  war,  324-6, 
Indians,  9,  14,  27,  31,  32,  34,  37,  40,  42, 

44,  50,  54,  63,  79,  103,  110,  120,  128, 

146,  155,  158,  162,  231,  233-4,  294,  302. 
Indian  ravages,  27,  33,  46,  58,  64-5,  66-7, 

71-2,  74,  123. 
Indian  slaves,  162. 
Indian  paths,  124. 
Indian  Allen,  83. 
Indians,  their  number,  128. 
Indian  fortifications,  128. 
Irving,  Washington,  168,  309. 
Iroquois,  117. 
Immoralities,  287. 
Insurance,  268. 
Jay,  John,  85,  298. 
Jamieson,  Mary,  125, 
Janeway,  174,  246. 
Jacob's  well,  175, 180. 
Jants,  Annake,  243. 
Jews,  150. 

Jerroleram,  Mr.,  310. 
Johnstown,  56. 

Johnson,  Sir  William,  56,  79,  122. 
Johnson,  Cols.  Guy  and  John,  56,  65,  71. 
Johnson,  J.,  335. 
Jones,  Paul,  343. 
Jones,  Interpreter,  75. 
Journals  of  House  Commons,  227. 

'<  Katey,  Mutz,"  246,  295. 

Kalm,  Prof.  16,  42,  113. 

Keith,  Sir  Wm.  46,  62, 

Keift,  Gov.,  10,  34,  165,  316,  351. 

Kennedy  house,  341,  346. 

Knickerbockers,  13,  158,  196,  224,  239, 

309   355. 
Kidd,'pirate,  36,  227,  283,  313. 
Kidd's  island,  314. 
King  Hendrick,  51,  59,  77. 
<'  King  William,"  346. 
King  Louis  Philippe,  54,  105. 
Kipp  house,  325. 
Kipp  bay,  246,  294,  325-6. 
"King's  arms,"  281-2,  306-7,  352. 
Knighthood,  272. 
Kinderhook,  46. 
Knyphausen,  Gen.,  347,  349. 

Landing  day,  9,  37. 
Lake  George,  47. 
Lakes,  56,  90-1,  134, 
Landerse,  Mrs.,  60. 
Lafayette,  Gen.,  71,  207-8. 
Lamps,  186,  192. 
Laidlie,  Rev.  Dr.,  204, 
L'Ambuscade  frigate,  209. 
Lawyers,  225,  267,  280,  287,  356.  a 
Ladies,  250,  267,  273. 
Lands,  81,  281. 
Landais,  Captain,  344. 


Leary,  John,  297. 

Lenni,  Lenape,  9,  38,  115. 

Lewistown,  86. 

Leisler's  war,  176. 

Leather  breeches,  257. 

Livingstons,  46,  48,  49,  62,  227,  267,  273, 

283,  308,  352. 
Little  Falls,  50,  52,  74,  139. 
Lindsay  Bush,  70. 
Lispenard's  swamp,  181,  192. 
"Liddy  Locket,"  241. 
Library  266. 
Light-houses,  271. 
Live  fish,  first,  278. 
Linen  manufactory,  281. 
Literature,  287-8. 
Liberty  pole,  281-2. 
"  Liberty  boys,"  278,  285,  321. 
Liverpool  packets,  311. 
Lobsters,  190,  281,  292. 
Longevity,  289. 
Lovelace,  Gov.,  11. 
Logan,  Mrs.  Deb.,  21,  24, 
Long  Island,  34,  114,  126-7,  133,  203,  232. 
Long  Branch,  37,  133. 
Louis  Philippe,  king,  54,  105. 
Log  houses,  88,  98,  109,  176,  353. 
Lowville,  103. 
Long  Level,  139. 
Lord's  day,  159. 

Local  changes  and  Local  facts,  171. 
Lowe,  pirate,  228. 
Lotteries,  267,  270-1,  281. 
"  London  papers,"  316,  355. 
Ludlow,  Dr.,  87. 
Lutherans,  165. 
Lynes'  map,  147,  179. 

Manhattan,  10. 

Macomb  houses,  10. 

Mayors,  12,  44,  158. 

Marriage,  19,  211,  269,  273,  284. 

Manners    and   Customs,  17,  26,  ^Q.  168, 

193-4,  196,  203-4,  217. 
Massacre,  27,  28,  33. 
Mayall,  a  soldier,  73. 
Mails,  51,  102,  162,  186-7. 
Manlius,  104,  129. 
Markets,  157,  176,  185,  292. 
May  poles,  166. 
Maiden  lane,  173,  200 
Magazine,  175.  198. 
Mall  parade,  179,  347. 
Malcomb,  Mrs.,  226. 
Manning's  Island,  233-4. 
Mantua-makers,  272,  284, 
Mason,  John,  311. 
May,  Captain,  11,  42. 
Mead  gardens,  246. 
Memorials  of  the  Dutch,  149,  314,  316. 
Methodists,  1^3,  287,  323,  360. 
Merchants,  267. 
Medical  lectures,  283. 
Mercein,  Andrew,  327. 
M'Kean,  Major,  68,  70. 
Midwives,  205,  269,  284,  285. 
Milliners,  272. 
Miscellaneous  facts,  294. 


Particular  Index, 


387 


Military,  12,  16,  20,  53,  64,  67,  80,  286. 

Military  tract,  81. 

Ministers,  20,  30,  46,  118,  146,  152,  234. 

Miller,  Judge,  26. 

Miller,  Rev.  John,  146. 

Minuit,  Gov.,  42. 

Mills,  55,  99,  102,  104,  114,  157,  167. 

Missionaries,  118. 

Moulton,  J.  W.,  147,  154,  164. 

Montague's  garden,  226,  246. 

M'Comb's  house,  301. 

M'Dougal,  Gen.,  226,  278,  285. 

M'Donald, ,  64,  74. 

Monckton,  Gen.,  271,  274. 

Money  diggers,  273. 

Moore,  Sir  Henry,  282,  284. 

Mohiccan,  42. 

Mohawk  river,  50,  59, 60, 74, 80, 137, 139, 

221. 
Morris,  Thos.,  82. 
Morris,  Robt.,  54. 
Montauks,  127. 
Montreal,  118. 
Mozeley,  Doct.  E.,  51. 
MoncriefFe,  Major  and  Miss,  339. 
Munroe,  John,  312. 
Mohawks,  14,  17,  26,  32,  42,  46,  50,  121, 

124,  317. 
Murray,  Lindley,  176,  246,  261. 
Music,  211,  272-3,  280,  286. 
Murphy,  Q5. 
M'Cauley,  106. 

Navy,  American,  344-5. 

New  York  city,  9, 141,  148,  229,  275,  299, 

313   355. 
New  Amsterdam,  10,   11,  44,   146,   149, 

356. 
New  Orange,  11. 
New  World,  94. 
New  Netherland,  38,  44,  356. 
Newburgh,  39,  40,  48. 
New  York,  inland,  81,  95. 
New  York  Mercury,  263. 
New  York  Mirror,  196,  304. 
New  Jersey,  345. 
New  lands,  274. 
New  England,  91-2,  95,  104-5,  165,  219, 

356. 
Negro  plot,  200,  297. 
Negroes,  268,  297,  310. 
Negro  Harry,  268,  277. 
New  Year,  204,  300. 
Niagara,  50,  55,  86,  88-9,  119,  140. 
NicoUs,  Gov.,  11,  314. 
Nicholson,  Com.,  239. 
North  river,  10,  37,  38,  229. 
Nova  Scotia,  230. 
"  Non  importation,"  285. 
"No.  45,"  285. 
Notices  of  early  Dutch  times,  164. 

Orange,  14. 
Onondago,  102,  117. 
Onondagoes,  53,  88,  117,  120. 
Ontario,  78, 
Old  slip,  296. 
O'Callaghan's  history,  319. 


Old  Jersey  prison  ship,  336-7. 

Oswego,  76-7. 

Oneidas,  52-3,  87,  117. 

O'Reilly,  Henry,  81. 

Original  exploration,  37. 

Oriskany,  76. 

Ohio,  78. 

Offices,  and  officers,  172,  192,  267    301, 

308,  331. 
Osborne,  Sir  D.,  200. 
Oysters,  114,  184,  233,  284,  292. 

Patroons,  25,  43,  320,  331. 

Pauuw,  Michael,  43,  45, 

Parish,  Indian  Agent,  50,  74. 

Panthers,  31. 

Patrick,  Captain,  82. 

Patch,  Sam,  84. 

Park,  246,  279,  312. 

Pacers,  260. 

Paper  Hangings,  269,  272. 

Palisades,  159,  167,  177,  294. 

Packets,  311. 

Paper  Money,  321-2. 

Phelps,  O.,  53,  91. 

Perrinton,  83. 

Persecution,  150-1. 

Presbyterians,  179,  264,  282,  323,  363. 

Peter's  field,  180. 

Pestilence,  190. 

Petticoats,  250,  264. 

Perils  and  prayers   of  Washington,  302, 

303   352. 
Pirates,  36J  227-8,  289,  310,  313. 
Prison  ships,  35,  323-4,  325,  335,  338. 
Pigeons,  19,  104. 
Pinfolds,  115. 

Pioneers,  54,  59,  60,  93,  95,  103,  274. 
Primitive  New  York,  146. 
Prices,  174,  276,  292. 
Price,  Mary,  179. 
Printing  concerns,  286,  312. 
Prisoners,  American,  184,  326-7,  329,  338. 
Prisoners,  323-4,  345. 
Pianos,  211. 
Prize  money,  275. 
Philadelphia,  264,  274,  312.    ' 
Pintard,  John,  338,  347. 
Pitt,  Wm.,  183-4  307. 
«  Prince  Wm.  Henry,"  346. 
Prince  Wm.,  283. 
Pillory,  298. 
Privateers,  274. 
Phillips,  Frederick,  234. 
Poughkeepsie,  40. 
Post,  51,  102,  162,  186-7,  265. 
Population,  189, 
Potatoes,  283, 
Pot-bakers'  hill,  284,  297. 
Popery,  200,  219,  297,  299. 
Provost,  327. 
Potter's  field,  298. 
Prostitutes,  265,  298. 
Province  house,  309. 
Potts,  Isaac,  305. 
Public  debt,  318,  319. 
Punishment,  285. 
Putnam,  Gen.,  330,  339,  340-1. 


388 


Particular  Index. 


Puritans,  105,  153,  219. 

Pulteney,  Sir  Wm.,  54,  81. 

Plums,  37. 

Plvmouth  pilgrims,  11,  25,  94,  105,  218. 

355. 
Physicians,  205. 

Quakers,  36,  44,  115,  150,  165,177,202. 
Queenstown,  86. 

Randolph  frigate,  344. 

Rail  roads,  36. 

Rammey,  Thos.,  182. 

Rattle  snakes,  233,  343,  345. 

Ranelagh,  245,  280. 

Races,  265,  275. 

Repeljies,  13,  34,  42. 

Religion,  24,  30,  46,  70,  99, 151,  162, 165, 

268,  302,  355. 
Revolutionary  war,  23,  50,57,  63,  71,  74-5, 

109,  155,  262,  332-3,  343. 
Reflections  and  Notices  about  town,  355. 
Republics,  94. 

Records,  154-5,  15S-9,  314-15. 
Ramarkable  Facts  and  Incidents,  225. 
Refugees,  341,  344. 
Residences  of  British  officers,  346. 
Rhineback,  46. 
Rich  men,  51-2,  310. 
Rickets  family,  201. 
Rivington,  James,  270,  286. 
Richmond  hill,  341 
Ritter,  Jacob,  304,  305. 
Rochester,  54-5,  82-3,  84-5,  105. 
Roads,  55,  85,  89,  102. 
Rome,  75,  79,  80,  139. 
Ross,  Major,  58,  75. 
Rogers  Capt.  Moses,  242. 
Rogers,  Capt.,  123,  242,  273. 
Rope  walks,  179. 
Rotten  row,  286,  302,  351. 
Rondeals,  351. 
Robinson,  Gen.,  346. 
Rodney,  Admiral,  347. 
Rutgers,  174,  185,  285. 

"States  General,"  11. 
StadtHuys,  12,  350-1. 
Slaves,  18,  158,  162,  171,  204,  223,  233, 

268-9. 
Swallows,  20. 

Sandy  Hook,  37,  43,  163,  271. 
Staten  Island,  38,  45,  187,  271. 
Saratoga,  45,  46-7. 
Stanwix,  Fort,  53,  75,  79. 
Scalps,  64,  122. 
Sharon  springs,  69. 
Shankland,  a  soldier,  72. 
Shall,  Christopher,  74. 
Schaeffer  family,  83. 
Stages,  86,  264,  282. 
Saxon  race,  93. 
Salina,  104. 
Salt  Springs,  135. 
Slaughter  houses,  157,  160. 
Small  pox,  163,  265,  277. 
Statues,  183,  184,  198,  202,  280,  307. 
Stamp  Act,  201,  277,  278-9. 


Saint  Nicholas,  196,  204,  208,  23&-7. 

Strawberries,  232. 

Skating,  235. 

Stays,  251,  269,  284. 

Sanded  floors,  259. 

Sharks,  271. 

Shad,  292. 

Statue  of  Pitt,  280. 

St.  Paul's  church,  281,  295. 

St.  John's  church,  294. 

State  papers,  315. 

Streets,  12,  16,  33,  145,  160,  173,  177-8, 

179,  180,  185,  191,  197,  269,  253-4,  355, 

363. 
Sledding,  20,  213. 
Schenectady,  26,  51,  61. 
Seals,  38,  232,  307. 
Steamboats,  41,  129. 
Steam  packets,  241. 
Settlers,  first,  43,  48,  54,  59,  61,  93,  ^5, 

99,  230-1,  274. 
Skenandon,  52,  126. 
St.  Leger.  Gen.,  76. 
Senecas,  88,  117,  120. 
Seawant,  166. 

Speculations,  174,  1S8,  311. 
Sleighs,  212, 
Spectacles,  254,  288. 
Steeples,  264,  354. 
Servants,  266. 
Sterling,  Lord,  269,  346. 
Sedgwick,  Mr.,  309. 
Sigourney,  Mrs.,  12,  127. 
Smith's  town,  35,  277. 
Smith,  Judge  P.,  51,  52. 
Six  Nations,  64. 
Sickness,  86-7. 
Ship-yards,  176. 
Slips,  176,  276,  296. 
Spinning,  204,  262. 
Shippens,  348. 
Ship  Betsey's  voyage,  240. 
Sideboards,  258. 
Signs,  354-5. 
Spring  Garden,  276. 
Stoopes,  13,  16,  18,  206-7. 
Society,  17,  18,  22,  26,  169,  193,  218,  221, 

231,  309,  316,  332,  353,  359. 
Stony  Point,  40. 
Soldiers,  53,  59,  64,  67,  99,  219,  268,  286, 

301,  325,  340. 
Schoharie,  60, 
Stow,  Judge  J.,  78. 
Schlosser,  fort,  90.    ■ 
Snows,  99,  103, 
Shoes,  253 

School-masters,  166,  172, 191,  193,  238. 
Swords,  Thos.,  184. 
Stores,  205,  211,267. 
Stoves,  16,260-1,272,  308. 
Scotch,  220,  267. 
Scott,  Sir  W.,  237. 
Southampton  and  Arundel,  229. 
Sons  of  Liberty.  278,  285. 
Storm  and  flood,  306. 
Sword,  ancient,  311. 
Sprout,  David,  329,  335. 
Schuylers,  17,  20-1,  27,  51,  138. 


Particular  Index, 


389 


Schuyler,  fort,  51-2,  75. 
Stuyvesant,  Goveinor,    11,   44,   80,    147, 
151,  171,  174,  175,  180,  283,  296,  311, 

316,  320,  353. 

Sullivan,  General,  64,  11.0,  304. 
Susquehannah,  63. 
Smuggling,  235,  268. 
Schuylkill,  316. 
Sturgeon,  190. 

Travellers,  55,  56,  68,  7S,  86,  88. 

Taverns,  150,  156,  209. 

Tanneries,  156,  175. 

Tariff,  159. 

Taxes,  189. 

Transubstantiation,  162. 

Tarleton,  Col.,  349. 

Tabelea,  Jacob,  176,  292,  295. 

Tradesmen,  205,  208,  288. 

Tar  and  feathers,  235,  241. 

Tapohanican,  245, 

Taylor  family,  274,  282,  293,  298. 

Tanney,  Doctor,  46. 

Trees,  18,  20,  SO,  105,  190. 

Trenton  Falls,  51. 

Ten  tribes,  113,  129. 

Tea  drinking,  169,  206,  271. 

Tea  water  pump,  171,  175,  245. 

Theatres,  201,  263,   265,  266,  271,  272, 

279,   282,   284,    297,    305,    324,    340, 

352. 
Teachers,  273. 
Teeth,  281,  283. 
Trinity  Church,   43,  185,  187,  200,   202, 

243,  272,  275,  285,  295,  296,  347. 
Tinconderoga,  47. 
Thieves,  257. 

Tories,  31,  57,  64,  68,  71,  74,  343. 
Tobacco,  44,  150. 
Troy,  45. 

Todd,  Laurie,  54,  177. 
Thorburn,  Grant,  54,  177,  245,  311. 
Tulpehocken,  53. 
Turkies,  101,  205. 
Tuscaroras,  87,  118,  120,  122,  125. 
Tryon,    Governor,    172,  286,    309,   340, 

346. 
Tryon  County,  history,  72. 

Utica,61,75,  83,  88,  96,  291. 
Ulysses,  104. 
Ury,  Mr.,  209. 
"Uncle  Sam,"  243. 
Umbrellas,  255,  271,274. 
University,  362,  363. 

Van  Twiller,  Gov.,  11,  44. 

Vanderdonck,  42,  43,  44. 

Van  Cappelen,  45. 

Vanderzee,  Mrs.  G.,  66. 

Van  Cortland,  166,  274. 

Van  Dam,  Ripp,  261,  264. 

Van  Schaick,  278. 

Van  Corlear,  26,  297,  320. 

Van  Pelt,  Anthony,  291. 

Van   Rensselaers,  17,  24,   43,    166,  285, 

317,  320. 


Vaughan,  General,  46. 

Vauxhall,  196,  245,  285. 

Vessels,  158,  159,  166,  179,  312,  333. 

Vezey,  Rev.,  162. 

Verranza,  43,  229. 

Virginia,  11, 

Voyages  round  the  World,  240,  241,  300. 

Wappingi,  39,  42,  91. 

Wampum,  16,  114,  166,  221. 

Whales,  42,  48,  233,  241,  281,  298. 

Waaloons,  42. 

Wallabout,  35,  42, 188,  328, 329,  335,  336, 

345. 
Washington,  Hon.  Shirley,  266. 
Washington,  General,  35,  48,  49,  72,  137, 

183,  187,  209,  266,  300,  328,  333,  334, 

341,  345,  352. 
Watering  places,  46,  47,  132. 
Wall  Street  palisades,  159,  167,  177. 
Wall  Street,  45,  159,  167,  177,  307. 
Wadsworth,  Col.,  80,  102. 
Watson,  Elkanah,  137. 
Waldenses,  153,  155. 
Water  Street,  179. 
Walton  house,  180,  196,  350. 
Watches,  254. 
Wampole,  family,  304. 
Waterwitch,  309. 
West  India  Co.,  11,  41. 
West  and  East  Indies,  11,  20,  160. 
West  Point,  39,  48,  49,  339. 
Wells  family,  71. 
Western    New  York,    81,    87,  92,   105, 

137. 
Webster,  Daniel,  109,  364. 
Wells,  146,  157. 
Weehawken,  149. 
Weymouth,  Captain,  229. 
Wheaton,  Captain,  345. 
Weekly  Journal,  312,  313. 
Wilie,  Walter,  28. 
Whigs,  31,322,  323. 
Wigs,  248,  252,  274,  281. 
Wm.  Henry,  Fort,  47. 
White,  Judge,  91,  104. 
Whitestown,  51,91. 
Willet,  Col.  M.,  53,  58,  68,  75,  76. 
Weiser,  Conrad,  %2. 
Williamson,  Captain  Ch.,  81,  82,  86. 
Winters,  100,  104,  188,  226,  242,  273. 
Wigwass,  114. 
Wigwams,  124,  233. 
<«  White  women,"  125. 
Whipping  Post,  162,  179,  262,  298. 
Witchcraft,  166. 

Wind  Mills,  167,  190,  269,  294,  295. 
Whitefield,  Rev.,  179. 
Wilke,  Mr.,  181. 
Wilson,  Sarah,  201. 
White  Conduit  house,  245. 
White  Hall,  268,  274,  296,  301,  302. 
Windsor  chairs,  278. 
Windows,  278. 
Women,    16,    17,  24,  98,  134,  189,  205, 

207,  208,  221,  247,  256. 
Woolsey,  Maj.,  65. 


390 


Particular  Index, 


Wood  Creek,  75,  77,  80,  124,  137. 
Woodmen,  78,  81,  90,  91,  96,  176. 
Wolves,  19,  50,  70,  77,  79,  100,  101,  116, 

136,  158,  233. 
Wooden  horse,  150,  179. 
Woods,  176. 
Woodbridge,  280,  321. 
Wyoming,  74. 


Yates,  G.  F.,  31,  33. 
Yankees,  91,  108,  116,  243,  356. 
"  Yankee  Doodle,"  241. 
Yellow  Fevers,  299. 
Younglove,  Doctor,  76,  287. 

Zanger,  the  Printer,  226,  313. 


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